WO2021081859A1 - Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021081859A1
WO2021081859A1 PCT/CN2019/114549 CN2019114549W WO2021081859A1 WO 2021081859 A1 WO2021081859 A1 WO 2021081859A1 CN 2019114549 W CN2019114549 W CN 2019114549W WO 2021081859 A1 WO2021081859 A1 WO 2021081859A1
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Prior art keywords
wax
weight
composition
present
composition according
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PCT/CN2019/114549
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English (en)
Inventor
Yujie HUANG
Tu LUAN
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L'oreal
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Priority to CN201980101780.XA priority Critical patent/CN114630649A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2019/114549 priority patent/WO2021081859A1/fr
Publication of WO2021081859A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021081859A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips have been produced to satisfy the need of moisturizing or hydration of the skin and the lips.
  • WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips which is characterized by comprising: (a) 5 to 30 mass%of hydrogenerated polyisobutene; (b) 30 to 70 mass%of one or more kinds of methyl phenyl silicones separating when mixed with (a) at 25°C; (c) 0.5 to 15 mass%of an oil separating, when: mixed with (a) and; with (b) at 25°C; and (d) 4 to 12 mass%of a wax.
  • WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:
  • nonvolatile silicone oil s
  • at least one of said non-volatile silicone oil (s) is a non-volatile phenylated silicon oil
  • compositions which are stable and have good glideness and will leave in a shiny deposit on keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips continues.
  • An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition which is stable and has good glideness and will leave a shiny deposit on keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, which will result a deposit with a good shine level on the keratin materials.
  • the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:
  • At least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising applying the solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.
  • the solid anhydrous composition obtained has desired hardness and good glideness and leaves a shiny deposit on keratin materials such as the skin and the lips.
  • the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable, i.e. it would not lapse after being remained at 20°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months.
  • the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • At least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid.
  • all of a) at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, b) at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof, c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid; and d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid are of plant origin.
  • solid used herein means the hardness of the composition at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm -1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.
  • composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness may be measured at 20°C via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ m in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the average of the three shear values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .
  • the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
  • the composition according to the present invention preferably has hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1 and preferably greater than 50 Nm -1 .
  • the composition according to the present invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm -1 , especially less than400 Nm -1 and preferably less than 300 Nm -1 .
  • these compositions have a shear value ranging from 75 to 150 and preferably from 80 to 125 gF.
  • these compositions may be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means.
  • anhydrous means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2%and preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.
  • the “keratin material” is the skin and the lips.
  • skin we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips.
  • Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s)
  • the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • oils it differs from the pasty compounds or waxes that are described in the present invention, in that the oils are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • non-volatile means an oil remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a nonvolatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably of plant origin.
  • apolar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • ⁇ a ( ⁇ p 2 + ⁇ h 2 ) 1/2 .
  • the apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
  • composition according to the present invention comprises squalane as apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 75%by weight, preferably from 10%to 35%by weight, more preferably from 10%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof.
  • pasty compound used herein is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, represents 9%to 97% by weight of the composition. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15%and 85%, more preferably between 40%and 85%, by weight.
  • the melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis” .
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a solid fat sample of about 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule" .
  • the sample is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from 20°C to 80°C, at the heating rate from 2°C/minute to 80°C, then left to the isotherm of 80°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to-80°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from-80°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C/minute.
  • the melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
  • an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof is intended to denote one of the derivatives of these dimer dilinoleic acid esters of polyol (s) obtained either by reaction of alcohol function (s) of the polyol, which are not employed in bonds of ester type with acid functions of the dilinoleic acid, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than dilinoleic acid or alternatively by reaction of acid functions of the dilinoleic dimer, which are not employed in bonds of ester type with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.
  • the dimer dilinoleic acid that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by polymerization reaction, especially by intermolecular dimerization of at least one linoleic acid.
  • the oxidation stability of the compound may be improved by hydrogenating the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction.
  • the linoleic acid dimer may also be obtained by dimerization of the hydrogenated form of linoleic acid.
  • the hydrogenated form of the acid or of the diacid may be partial or total, and may correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more oxidation-stable.
  • the carboxylic functions of the dimer dilinoleic acid residue not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue (s) may be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol (s) .
  • These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols.
  • hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • monoalcohols that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, etc.
  • polyol is intended to denote any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one hetero atom, and especially an oxygen atom.
  • a polyol or a polyol ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, in particular from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and more particularly from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.
  • the hydroxyl functions other than those already employed in an ester bond with the dimer dilinoleic acid, may also be employed, wholly or partly with other ester bonds via reactivity with acid molecules other than the dimer dilinoleic acid.
  • the polyol or an ester thereof that is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected especially from linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
  • the polyol may be selected, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.
  • the polyol may be a diol, or an ester thereof, selected especially from a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or polyglycerol, a C 2-4 monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, 1, 4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.
  • diols that are also suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol
  • a fatty alcohol dimer may also be the product of hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a fatty acid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C 8 to C 34 , especially of C 12 to C 22 , in particular of C 16 to C 20 and more particularly of C 18 .
  • a fatty alcohol dimer may be a diol dimer that can be the product of hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid. It may be in a saturated form.
  • a fatty alcohol dimer may be, for example, a dilinoleol dimer.
  • This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a water molecule.
  • diglycerol denotes any isomer combination that can result from such a condensation, for instance linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule.
  • the diglycerol may be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and especially those described in patent EP 0 750 848.
  • acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not employed in the ester bond with the dimer dilinoleic acid, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid or cetylic acid.
  • An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a polyol or an ester thereof with a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0: 0.2-1.0.
  • An ester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may especially be obtained by reacting a dimer dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, where appropriate, at least one additional monoalcohol selected especially from behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and cetol, and mixtures thereof.
  • an ester used in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.
  • An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that is suitable for the present invention may be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimer dilinoleic acid, especially, in a molar ratio of 1.0: 0.2-1.0: 0.5-0.9.
  • esters of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for the present invention mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP 2004-256515 and JP 2005-179377.
  • An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may have a molecular weight ranging from about 2000 to about 25 000 g/mol, in particular from about 4000 to about 20 000 g/mol, in particular from about 7000 to about 15 000 g/mol and more particularly from about 8000 to about 10 000 g/mol.
  • an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of dimer dilinoleate residue (s) and of residue (s) related to said polyol (s) , and especially to the said diol (s) , said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.
  • each of the two ends of the said sequence may bear, respectively, a unit OR' and OR" with R' and R" representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR" representing, independently of each other, a C 2 to C 36 , especially C 8 to C 24 , in particular C 12 to C 20 and more particularly C 16 to C 18 hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.
  • R' and R" may both represent a hydrogen atom.
  • OR' and OR" may both represent an identical or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.
  • hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues OR' and OR" that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.
  • an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that may be suitable for use in the present invention may have the general formula (I) below:
  • OR 2 O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue having from 16 to 68, from 24 to 44, in particular from 32 to 40, and more particularly 36 carbon atoms.
  • OR 3 represents a monoalcohol residue having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32, in particular from 16 to 28, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, in particular from 2 to 10 and more particularly from 5 to 7.
  • OR 2 O may represent a dimer dilinoleyl residue.
  • OR 3 may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.
  • ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that may be suitable for use in the present invention may, especially, have the general formula (II) below:
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, especially from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 to 7;
  • R' 3 represents H or OR' 3 represents a fatty acid residue having from 8 to 34, especially from 12 to 22, in particular of 16 to 20 and more particularly 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid residue represented by OR' 3 may be an isostearyl residue.
  • the viscosity of an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof may be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially according to the conventional process described hereinbelow.
  • the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer of Ares type (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic sweep mode over a shear range of about 1-1000 s -1 to induce a flow tension at about 1000 Pa.
  • Ares type TA-Instrument
  • the cone/plate or parallel plates may consist of a material selected from the group constituted of stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin) .
  • the cone/plate diameter may be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radiants) .
  • the measurement is performed at about 25°C.
  • the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine ifthe sample is stable per se.
  • the shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region according to the flow.
  • the dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.
  • the measurements at constant sweep rate are performed with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1000 s -1 and in particular from 1.0 to 100 s -1 .
  • the viscosity of an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may range from about 20000 mPa. s to about 150 000 mPa. s, especially from about 40000 mPa. s to about l00000 mPa. s and in particular from about 60000 mPa. s to about 80000 mPa. s.
  • An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that is suitable for the present invention may be selected especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimer dilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such compounds may be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailucent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd) .
  • An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may be advantageously present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount sufficient to give these compositions improved cosmetic properties, especially in terms of mean gloss staying power.
  • the at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 6%to 12%by weight, more preferably from 7%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) , with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the melting point of can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis” according to the protocol already described.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one first wax of solid linear ester derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid.
  • fatty acids mentioned above are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, and cerotic acid, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the solid linear esters contain in total from 25 to 36 carbon atoms and have melting points of between 38°C and 60°C.
  • alinear ester is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid crystalline form at room temperature.
  • the solid linear esters that are suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from the group comprising stearyl stearate, tetradecyl tetradecanoate (INCI name: myristyl myristate) , cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate and, and mixtures thereof.
  • stearyl stearate tetradecyl tetradecanoate
  • the wax of solid linear ester derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid according to the present invention is preferably solid linear ester derived from C 10 -C 22 fatty acid, and containing from 25 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • the wax of solid linear ester according to the present invention is solid linear ester derived from C 12 -C 20 fatty acid, and containing from 28 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • the first wax is selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one first wax is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid.
  • the second waxes that can be used in a composition according to the present invention may or may not be deformable at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from wax of animal or plant origin.
  • Hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
  • Mentions may be especially made of, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, for example sold under the name SUNFLOWER WAX DOUBLE REFINED by the company Koster Keunen, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, for example, 7820 LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLA REAL from MULTICERAS, or a mixture thereof.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one second wax selected from helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one second wax (es) is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 20%by weight, preferably from7%to 17%by weight, more preferably from9%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of the first wax and the second wax in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 7%to 25%by weight, preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first wax and the second wax are present in the composition according to the present invention in a weight ratio ranging from 1: 5 to 1: 2, preferably from 1: 4 to 1: 2.
  • the composition of the present invention provides a good glideness when applied onto the keratin materials.
  • composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more additional oil (s) .
  • the additional oils can be non-volatile oils and/or volatile oils.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
  • the oils may be silicone oil, fluoro oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the silicone oil and fluoro oil may be selected from polar oils, apolar oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the “hydrocarbon-based oil” used as the additional oil can be polar oils.
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises an additional oil selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises an additional oil selected from triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) :
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from C 6 -C 30 alkyl and C 6 -C 30 alkenyl.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a monoester, diester or triester of polyglycerol-2 with isosteric acid, 2-ethylhexanoic and/or isononanoic acid, such as polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 triisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 (2-ethyl) hexanate, polyglyceryl-2 di (2-ethyl) hexanate, polyglyceryl-2 tri (2-ethyl) hexanate, as an addition oil.
  • polyglyceryl-2 isostearate polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate
  • polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate polyglyceryl-2 isononanoate
  • composition according to the present invention comprises an additional oil selected from triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) :
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from C 6 -C 30 alkyl and C 6 -C 30 alkenyl, a monoester, diester or triester of polyglycerol-2 with isosteric acid, 2-ethylhexanoic and/or isononanoic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from C 6 -C 24 alkyl and C 6 -C 24 alkenyl, preferably C 6 -C 20 alkyl and C 6 -C 20 alkenyl, more preferably C 6 -C 14 alkyl and and C 6 -C 14 alkenyl, more preferably C 6 -C 12 alkyl and and C 6 -C 12 alkenyl, most preferably C 6 -C 10 alkyl and and C 6 -C 10 alkenyl, said alkyl or alkenyl is linear or branched.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be different, or two or all of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be the same.
  • Preferred triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are obtained from carboxylic acids of carbon chain length ranging from C 6 to C 24 , preferably from C 6 to C 20 , and more preferably from C 6 to C 18 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol.
  • the triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acids, caprylic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • the triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are synthetic.
  • the triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are of plant origin.
  • the plant oils that comprise triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) , or triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) obtained from the plant oils can be used.
  • Vegetable derived triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as sources of triglyceride oil according to formula (IV) include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, and sunflower seed oil.
  • Mentions maybe made of the canola oil, such as that sold under the tradename Lipex Preact by the company AARHUSKARL SHAMN.
  • Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names 810, 812 and 818, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil. Mentions may also be made of the product sold by the company Wilmar under the name Wilfare Ster MCT, with INCI name caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride, canola oil, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, or a mixture thereof as the additional oil.
  • the additional oil (s) is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 70%by weight, preferably from40%to 65%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of the at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and the additional oil is present in the composition of the present invention ranges from 50%to 80%by weight, preferably from 60%to 75%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solid anhydrous composition in accordance with the present invention may optionally comprise at least one dyestuff, which may be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, rganic or mineral dyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of dyestuff is below 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term "dyestuff” means a compound that is capable of producing a coloured optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one dyestuff selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or water-soluble dyes, and a mixture thereof.
  • a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.
  • the water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the present invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
  • water-soluble dye is intended to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of colouring.
  • water-soluble is intended to mean the capacity of a compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25°C, to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution) . This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.
  • water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700) , DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850) , DC Red 22 (CI: 45380) , DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt) , DC Red 30 (CI: 73360) , DC Red 33 (CI: 17200) , DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510) , FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140) , FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985) , DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt) , FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053) , DC Green 5 (CI: 61570) , FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090) .
  • the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the present invention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, ⁇ -carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
  • They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.
  • water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular permitted for food use.
  • Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
  • the water-soluble dyestuff (s) that are to be transferred onto the skin and/or the lips intended to be made up are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be compatible with impregnation into the substrate.
  • the water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 1%to 15%by weight and preferably from 2%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pigment and/or nacre as dyestuff.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.
  • the pigments may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .
  • the pigments may be selected from monochromatic pigments, lakes, nacres, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
  • the mineral pigments may be selected from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic pigments may be, for example:
  • D&C Blue No. 4 D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.
  • nacre is intended to mean coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • nacres examples include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • nacres that may be introduced as interference pigments into the composition
  • a solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additive usually used in the field under consideration.
  • the additive is selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • At least one dyestuff selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or water-soluble dyes, and a mixture thereof.
  • solid anhydrous compositions according to above preferred embodiments demonstrate optimum combination of desired hardness, stability as well as good application properties such as glideness and leave a deposit with a good shine level on keratin materials.
  • composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of make-up product such as lipstick and so on.
  • composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for/making up keratin materials comprising applying the solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.
  • Lipsticks according to the present invention (Inv. ) 1-2 and comparative lipsticks (comp. ) 1-3 were prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :
  • the lipsticks are prepared following the steps of:
  • the shear value and hardness were evaluated according to the protocol described previously.
  • Glideness was evaluated by 5 experts as follows: slowly applying a lipstick on the upper lip to both sides twice and lower lip two times using the same force, while feeling carefully the force between the lipstick and skin of lips during the second application. The weaker friction force, the higher glideness is.
  • Glideness is used to evaluate whether the lipstick can slide easily and smoothly during application on the lips.
  • Shininess was evaluated by 5 experts by applying a lipstick on the upper lip to both sides for twice and lower lip two times using the same force.
  • Visual attributes were evaluated by using a mirror, so as to check the degree of light reflection or brightness on the middle of the lower lip under standard light.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques comprenant a) au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile apolaire, b) au moins un composé pâteux choisi parmi un ester d'acide dilinoléique dimère et de polyol (s) ou un ester associé, c) au moins une première cire choisie parmi les esters linéaires solides dérivés de l'acide gras C6-C30, et d) au moins une seconde cire choisie parmi les cires hydrocarbonées autres que les esters linéaires solides dérivés de l'acide gras C6-C30. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de soin et/ou de maquillage de matières kératiniques, telles que la peau et les lèvres, de préférence les lèvres, par application de la composition anhydre solide selon la présente invention sur les matières kératiniques.
PCT/CN2019/114549 2019-10-31 2019-10-31 Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques WO2021081859A1 (fr)

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PCT/CN2019/114549 WO2021081859A1 (fr) 2019-10-31 2019-10-31 Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques

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WO2023060376A1 (fr) * 2021-10-11 2023-04-20 L'oreal Substitut de vaseline et composition cosmétique le comprenant

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CN115429720B (zh) * 2021-10-11 2023-12-26 广州花出见生物科技有限公司 一种极简唇膏及其制备方法

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