WO2023242240A1 - Composition de maquillage comprenant un polyphénol, un composé polyoxyalkyléné ou polyglycérolé, un mélange d'isopropanol et d'éthanol, et méthode l'utilisant - Google Patents

Composition de maquillage comprenant un polyphénol, un composé polyoxyalkyléné ou polyglycérolé, un mélange d'isopropanol et d'éthanol, et méthode l'utilisant Download PDF

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WO2023242240A1
WO2023242240A1 PCT/EP2023/065911 EP2023065911W WO2023242240A1 WO 2023242240 A1 WO2023242240 A1 WO 2023242240A1 EP 2023065911 W EP2023065911 W EP 2023065911W WO 2023242240 A1 WO2023242240 A1 WO 2023242240A1
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composition
weight
acid
polyglyceryl
chosen
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PCT/EP2023/065911
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English (en)
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Marine GUITTOT
Boudiaf Boussouira
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one compound of polyphenol type, at least one compound Y capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the polyphenol and comprising polyoxyalkylenated and/or (poly)glycerolated units, at least one mixture of C2-C8 alcohols comprising at least ethanol and isopropanol.
  • compositions comprising such compounds do not give complete satisfaction in terms of stability over time, in particular when they contain significant contents of short (in particular C2-C8) alcohols.
  • short (in particular C2-C8) alcohols in particular C2-C8 alcohols.
  • this type of compound, in an alcoholic medium, more especially an ethanolic medium is sensitive to hydrolysis reactions and transesterification reactions. These reactions are the cause of the appearance, over time, of gallic acid and esters thereof.
  • gallic acid and esters thereof are known for their sensitizing potential as regards the skin and lips, and therefore the respective content thereof in the compositions must be and remain very limited over time.
  • compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from those capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, which is preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or (poly)glycerolated; c) at least one mixture of C2-C8 monoalcohols, comprising at least ethanol and isopropanol in an isopropanol/ethanol weight ratio varying from 5/95 to less than 100/0.
  • the invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the abovementioned composition is applied.
  • the skin denotes the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body and of the hands.
  • compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable is intended to mean compatible with the skin and/or the lips, having a pleasant color, odor and feel and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • the term “hydrogen bonding interaction” means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reagents and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reagent, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine.
  • the hydrogen bond(s) is (are) formed between the hydroxyl (OH) function(s) of the reactive phenol group(s) of the polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of the compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with the polyphenol X.
  • the present invention more particularly comprises the use of a coating agent obtained by hydrogen bonding interaction of at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y. More particularly, said coating agent is in the latent state in the composition according to the invention and only fully appears in situ, i.e. once the composition has been applied on the skin and/or the lips.
  • the conditions are such that they do not promote the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with one another.
  • these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before it is applied.
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid form at room temperature.
  • room temperature means 25°C.
  • atmospheric pressure means 760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 pascals.
  • the polyphenols X that can be used according to the present invention include in their structure at least two different phenol groups.
  • a “polyphenol” is understood to mean any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene groups, in free or fused form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • phenol groups refers to phenol groups that are chemically different (not comprising the same substituents).
  • the polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, notably contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenol groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
  • the two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
  • flavonoids examples include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidze
  • non-flavonoids examples include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
  • polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted with phenols.
  • the polyphenol will be chosen from catechin tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, notn, roburins, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, repandusinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin and rhoipteleanins.
  • catechin tannins such as gal
  • the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Green Tea Extract, notably comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 M-C® sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract® by Tayo Green Power.
  • the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark/Bud Extract, notably comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract, such as the commercial product sold under the name Pycnogenol® sold by Bio prises Ariquess.
  • Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X.
  • This compound is notably sold under the name Brewtan F by Ajinomoto Omnichem NV.
  • the content of polyphenol is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2% and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the compound(s) Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X are therefore polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or (poly)glycerolated hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds.
  • the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition do not comprise any anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are nonionic.
  • the compound(s) Y is/are chosen from compounds having a molar mass of greater than 200 g/mol, more particularly greater than 350 g/mol.
  • polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or polyglycerolated linear, branched or crosslinked silicone compounds polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkylglycols or glycerol, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamers, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or (poly)glycerolated esters, polyoxyethylenated esters of sorbitol or sorbitan and polysorbates, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or polyglycerolated linear, branched or crosslinked nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylene units and/or comprising from 2 to 20 glycerol units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polyoxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester function(s), comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units; and also the mixtures thereof.
  • the compound(s) Y is/are chosen from the following compounds, denoted by their INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and also the mixtures thereof.
  • R representing a C 8 -C 30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, notably chosen from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7, Trideceth-12 and the mixtures thereof.
  • R representing a C 4 -C 30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50.
  • the compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-12-Buteth-16, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, and the mixtures thereof.
  • the latter may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the polyethylene glycols of H(O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) n -OH type, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220, and mixtures thereof.
  • Poloxamers Suitable for the implementation of the invention are Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the following formula: HO-(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -(CHCH 3 -CH 2 -O) o -(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) p -H, in particular chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, and also the mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable for example are:
  • PEG-6 Isostearate PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and also the mixtures thereof.
  • esters are more particularly in the form of monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, alone or as mixtures.
  • esters mention may be made of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm/Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, the mixture of polyoxyethylenated (200 OE) palm glycerides and of polyoxyethylenated (7 OE) coconut glycerides, and also the mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides PEG-60 Almond Gly
  • esters of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s) comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or esters of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derivatives of plant oils, and also the mixtures thereof.
  • the compounds Y are chosen from polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s), comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or else derivatives of plant oils, and the mixtures thereof.
  • the carboxylic acids may further comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably they are monocarboxylic acids.
  • the polyglycerolated compounds are more particularly monoesters, diesters or triesters.
  • Polyoxyethylenated waxes notably chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated (120 OE) jojoba wax (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and the mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated waxes such as polyoxyethylenated (120 OE) jojoba wax (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and the mixtures thereof.
  • These compounds are more particularly chosen from the esters of sorbitol or sorbitan and of saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 40 , advantageously C 8 -C 30 , carboxylic acid(s) and comprising 2 to 50 oxyethylene units.
  • Polysorbates (INCI name)
  • esters mention may be made of PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.
  • the sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives such as for example polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses, for instance the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20.
  • glucose derivatives such as for example polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses, for instance the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20.
  • polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as for example the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, and also the mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable for the implementation of the invention are polyoxyethylenated alkylamines , more particularly of formula R-N[(CH 2 -CH 2 -O)H] q [(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) r H] with R representing a saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based group, and q or r, which are identical or different, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50 and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine.
  • Polyoxyethylenated polyamines such as for example PEG-15 Cocopolyamine may also be suitable.
  • the compound(s) Y are chosen from: * polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of R(O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) o -OH type, R representing a C 8 -C 30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50; * polyoxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated alcohols of the following type: R-(O-C(CH 3 )H-CH 2 ) o -(O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) p -OH; R representing a C 4 -C 30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50; * esters of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s) comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; or of derivatives of plant oils; * esters of glycerol
  • the compound(s) Y are chosen from esters of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s) comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms.
  • Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and also the mixtures thereof.
  • the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight and even more preferentially between 3% and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of the compounds Y, expressed as active material varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mixture of C 2 -C 8 , more particularly C 2 -C 5 , monoalcohols, present in which are at least ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the isopropanol/ethanol weight ratio varies from 5/95 to less than 100/0.
  • the isopropanol/ethanol weight ratio varies from 5/95 to 99/1, notably from 10/90 to 95/5, and even more preferentially from 15/85 to 95/5, or even from 40/60 to 95/5.
  • the content of C 2 -C 8 , preferably C 2 -C 5 monoalcohols is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can optionally comprise water.
  • This may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the water content is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight of water, is less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content of the composition is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and more particularly still less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, the water is not added deliberately to the composition, but may be present in small amounts, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.
  • the composition may optionally comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients or solvents (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid chosen from C6 aromatic or C2-C10 non-aromatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, bearing at least one free OH radical in the alpha or beta position of a carboxylic acid group that is free or engaged in a heterocycle; from ferulic acid, acetic acid, and from phytic acid, and also mixtures thereof.
  • at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid chosen from C6 aromatic or C2-C10 non-aromatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, bearing at least one free OH radical in the alpha or beta position of a carboxylic acid group that is free or engaged in a heterocycle; from ferulic acid, acetic acid, and from phytic acid, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the hydroxylated carboxylic acid comprises a carboxylic group (also referred to interchangeably as a carboxylic acid group) engaged in a heterocycle or comprises 1 to 4 free carboxylic groups.
  • the number of free hydroxyl radicals varies from 1 to 4.
  • hydroxylated carboxylic acids which may also comprise an ester function.
  • This ester function is more particularly obtained by reaction of a free hydroxyl radical with a saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the hydroxylated carboxylic acid is chosen from C 2 -C 10 non-aromatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids bearing at least one OH radical in the alpha position of a carboxylic acid group that is free or engaged in a heterocycle; the hydroxylated carboxylic acid comprising a carboxylic acid group engaged in a heterocycle or comprising 1 to 4 free carboxylic acid groups; the number of free hydroxyl radicals varying from 1 to 4; it being possible for said hydroxylated carboxylic acid to optionally comprise an ester function.
  • the hydroxylated acid according to this variant is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids such as in particular erythorbic acid, ascorbic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and also isomers thereof; glycolic acid, and also mixtures thereof.
  • alpha-hydroxy acids such as in particular erythorbic acid, ascorbic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and also isomers thereof; glycolic acid, and also mixtures thereof.
  • a hydroxylated carboxylic acid also comprising an ester function mention may be made of the compounds obtained from ascorbic or erythorbic acid, bearing an ester function on one of the free hydroxyl radicals of the dihydroxyethyl group, and very particularly ascorbyl palmitate.
  • the hydroxylated acid is chosen from C6 aromatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids bearing an OH radical in the beta position of a free carboxylic acid group, such as more particularly salicylic acid.
  • this acid corresponds to the hexaphosphoric ester of inositol (C6 cyclic saturated alcohol, each carbon atom comprising a hydroxyl group).
  • the composition comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, preferably not comprising an ester function, or phytic acid, or a mixture of these.
  • the content of said acid(s) varies from 0.1% to 6% by weight, more particularly from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one colorant, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • the content of colorant(s) in the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the colorant(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in a medium of the composition, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit.
  • the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments of use in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, or metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ m to 1000 ⁇ m.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
  • examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
  • stabilized means lacking the effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, notably interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one coated pigment.
  • This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.
  • the coating can also comprise at least one additional nonlipophilic compound.
  • the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed on, adsorbed on or grafted to said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature which are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.
  • the surface agent can be absorbed on, adsorbed on or grafted to the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
  • the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating
  • the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
  • the colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • organic pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment can in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
  • the pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment can also be a lake.
  • the term “lake” is understood to mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61
  • Mention may be made, by way of an example of a lake, of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
  • the pigment(s) are preferably present at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly of at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition in question. More particularly, the content of colorant is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the colorant is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.
  • a “water-soluble colorant” is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting color.
  • a “liposoluble colorant” is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with the oily phase, and which is capable of imparting color.
  • water-soluble dyes which are suitable for the invention, of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 or FDC Blue 1.
  • anthocyanins Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made, for instance, of the liposoluble dyes DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red and Sudan brown.
  • carotenes for instance ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.
  • xanthophylls such astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatoxanthin,
  • the water-soluble or liposoluble dye(s) are preferably present in the composition in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention which is preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.
  • oil phase refers to a phase which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one fatty substance, other than the abovementioned compounds Y, such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.
  • the oil(s) may be chosen from volatile or nonvolatile, polar or nonpolar, hydrocarbon-based oils, silicon oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functions. These oils are thus different from silicone oils.
  • volatile oil refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.
  • nonvolatile oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapor pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (standard OECD 104).
  • hydrocarbon-based volatile oils examples include those chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of hydrocarbon type (thus nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) and also of ester type.
  • they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and notably: - branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, - linear alkanes, for example C 11 -C 15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, and - branched C 8 -C 16 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in the patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from Cognis.
  • volatile silicon oils mention may be made, inter alia, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms; and also the mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
  • a “polar hydrocarbon-based oil” denotes an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester or ether functions.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may notably be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil,
  • Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - linear fatty acid esters and polyesters containing a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate; - esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and esters of di
  • Nonpolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils are nonpolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils
  • the oil may also be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • linear or branched, nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words nonvolatile oils of hydrocarbon type).
  • Said linear or branched nonpolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: - liquid paraffin, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of saturated, linear hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 -C 28 hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-C19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance the products of the Indopol range sold by INEOS Oligomers, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the nonvolatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil Fats, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance the nonvolatile compounds of the Puresyn®
  • the first nonvolatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups, notably such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
  • the phenylated or non-phenylated nonvolatile silicone oil is chosen from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the concentration of oily phase in the composition is between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the oily phase if it is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one nonvolatile oil.
  • the oil(s) are chosen from polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the nonvolatile oil is not chosen from nonvolatile silicone oils.
  • the content of oil(s), preferably nonvolatile oil(s), is between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based volatile oil. More particularly, the content of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based volatile oil, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise any volatile silicone oil.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.
  • the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point above or equal to 40°C that may go up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows: A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a “hermetic aluminum capsule” crucible. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point value of the wax is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes are chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, polar, preferably ester, hydrocarbon-based waxes, and also mixtures thereof.
  • nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure
  • the waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and/or ether group are suitable.
  • Waxes that may notably be used include hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, and also mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, and also mixtures thereof.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
  • waxes of C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate type are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
  • alcohol wax of mixtures of saturated linear C 30 -C 50 alcohols, such as, for example, the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technology, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • the content of wax(es), if the composition comprises any, varies from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including, at a temperature of 20°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • a pasty compound may have a starting melting point below 20°C.
  • the pasty compound may have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail above for the waxes.
  • the measuring protocol is, however, as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:
  • mango butters such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarl
  • - partially hydrogenated plant oils for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut kernel, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
  • - triglycerides of optionally (completely or partially) hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18 fatty acids; for instance the glycerides of saturated C12-C18 fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),
  • the polyesters obtained from a dimer acid said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and from at least one alcohol or polyol, for instance: * esters of dimer diol (for example dilinoleyl alcohol) and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical
  • the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, the compounds with the INCI name Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and also the mixtures thereof.
  • composition comprises at least one such pasty hydrocarbon-based compound
  • their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may contain additives that are common in cosmetics. Mention may notably be made of antioxidants, preserving agents, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active agents, for instance emollients, moisturizers or vitamins, and mixtures thereof.
  • the antioxidants are used to prevent the oxidation of the polyphenol X. They may be chosen from sulfites and metabisulfite, and reducing agents of thiol type, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as liposoluble dyes.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.
  • the container may be in any suitable form. It may notably be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar or a case.
  • the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid or a cover, notably of the type including a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, notably a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
  • the container may be combined with an applicator, for example in the form of a fine brush (as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of a deformable or non-deformable member, made of foam or of elastomer, and which is optionally flocked.
  • the applicator may also be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a stem borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426.
  • the applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
  • the product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
  • the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
  • the coupling between the closing member and the container occurs other than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping.
  • click-fastening in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, notably of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the bead or cord has been crossed.
  • the container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.
  • thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.
  • the container may have rigid or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.
  • the container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing of the composition.
  • the container may have deformable walls so as to make the composition exit in response to excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is brought about by the elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
  • the container may be equipped with a drainer positioned in the vicinity of the opening of the container.
  • a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the stem to which it may be securely fastened.
  • Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions were prepared:
  • composition A Composition 1 Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem NV) 15 15 Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate (Sunsoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagaku) 5 5 Polyglyceryl 4 caprate 5 5 Polyglyceryl 5 laurate 5 5 Citric acid 0.5 0.5 Red 7 10 10 Ethanol qs 100 - Ethanol – Isopropanol - qs 100 Isopropanol/ethanol weight ratio 0/100 50/50
  • composition 1 At low temperature, mix the tannic acid with the ethanol and the isopropanol (composition 1), or with the ethanol (composition A), using a Rayneri blender. Next, introduce the polyglycerolated compounds once the tannic acid has dissolved. Finally sprinkle in the Red 7 pigment and leave stirring for 15 minutes.
  • compositions are stored for 15 days at 45°C (in an oven, in the absence of light). Then the assay is carried out for each composition, once the composition has returned to room temperature.
  • Protocol for measuring the ethyl gallate and gallic acid HPLC chromatography on a RESTEK Raptor Biphenyl 2.6 ⁇ m 2.1x100 mm column Linear elution gradient Eluent A ⁇ Eluent B: Eluent A: CH 3 CN / H 2 O / H 3 PO 4 (85%): 1/99/0.1% (volume). Eluent B: CH 3 CN / H 2 O / CH 3 OH / H 3 PO 4 (85%): 1/9/90/0.1% (volume). Sample dissolved with an H 2 O / DMSO mixture (50/50% by volume)
  • Composition 1 Composition A Ethyl gallate Total esters 0.0086% 0.0093% 0.0207% 0.0207% Gallic acid 0.0122% 0.120%
  • each composition is applied very easily with a dip applicator, making it possible to obtain a very thin film on the lips.
  • the assembly does not transfer and has a good resistance with respect to water and oil.
  • Preparation of a tissue for each stress Fold each tissue twice on the long edge then twice in the other direction to form a square.
  • this deposit comprises at least one colorant having a sufficiently intense coloration (for example a red colorant, such as Red 7 notably).
  • the wear property of the deposit and also other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts enabling a description of technical characteristics to be obtained - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition pour le maquillage et/ou le soin de la peau et/ou des lèvres, de préférence les lèvres, plus particulièrement une composition de maquillage, comprenant : a) au moins un polyphénol X comprenant au moins deux groupes phénol différents ; b) au moins un composé Y choisi parmi ceux capables de former au moins deux liaisons hydrogène avec lesdits groupes phénol du polyphénol X, qui est de préférence non ionique, polyoxyéthyléné et/ou polyoxypropyléné et/ou (poly)glycérolé ; c) au moins un mélange de monoalcools en C2-C8, comprenant au moins de l'éthanol et de l'isopropanol dans un rapport pondéral isopropanol/éthanol qui varie de 5/95 à moins de 100/0. L'invention concerne également une méthode de maquillage et/ou de soin de la peau et/ou des lèvres, notamment des lèvres, consistant à appliquer ladite composition.
PCT/EP2023/065911 2022-06-15 2023-06-14 Composition de maquillage comprenant un polyphénol, un composé polyoxyalkyléné ou polyglycérolé, un mélange d'isopropanol et d'éthanol, et méthode l'utilisant WO2023242240A1 (fr)

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FRFR2205848 2022-06-15
FR2205848A FR3136656A1 (fr) 2022-06-15 2022-06-15 Composition de maquillage comprenant un polyphénol, un composé polyoxyalkyléné ou polyglycérolé, un mélange d’isopropanol et d’éthanol, et procédé la mettant en œuvre

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Citations (7)

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FR853634A (fr) 1938-04-29 1940-03-23 Ericsson Telefon Ab L M Appareils de mesure
FR2722380A1 (fr) 1994-07-12 1996-01-19 Oreal Applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmetique liquide et ensemble de maquillage muni d'un tel applicateur
US5492426A (en) 1993-02-22 1996-02-20 L'oreal Deformable applicator with capillary feed
FR2761959A1 (fr) 1997-04-15 1998-10-16 Oreal Ensemble de conditionnement et d'application d'un produit fluide
FR2792618A1 (fr) 1999-04-23 2000-10-27 Oreal Dispositif de conditionnement et d'application d'un produit ayant un organe d'essorage comprenant une fente
EP1184426A2 (fr) 2000-09-01 2002-03-06 Toda Kogyo Corporation Particules composites, procédé de préparation, pigment et peinte, et composition de résine les utilisants
US20040175338A1 (en) 2003-03-06 2004-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an ester and a pasty compound

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US4578266A (en) 1983-07-29 1986-03-25 Revlon, Inc. Silicone-based cosmetic products containing pigment
FR2679771A1 (fr) 1991-08-01 1993-02-05 Oreal Utilisation pour la teinture temporaire des fibres keratiniques d'un pigment insoluble obtenu par polymerisation oxydante de derives indoliques.
DE102008012457A1 (de) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Kohlenwasserstoff Gemische und ihre Verwendung

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FR853634A (fr) 1938-04-29 1940-03-23 Ericsson Telefon Ab L M Appareils de mesure
US5492426A (en) 1993-02-22 1996-02-20 L'oreal Deformable applicator with capillary feed
FR2722380A1 (fr) 1994-07-12 1996-01-19 Oreal Applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmetique liquide et ensemble de maquillage muni d'un tel applicateur
FR2761959A1 (fr) 1997-04-15 1998-10-16 Oreal Ensemble de conditionnement et d'application d'un produit fluide
FR2792618A1 (fr) 1999-04-23 2000-10-27 Oreal Dispositif de conditionnement et d'application d'un produit ayant un organe d'essorage comprenant une fente
EP1184426A2 (fr) 2000-09-01 2002-03-06 Toda Kogyo Corporation Particules composites, procédé de préparation, pigment et peinte, et composition de résine les utilisants
US20040175338A1 (en) 2003-03-06 2004-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an ester and a pasty compound

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