WO2023060387A1

WO2023060387A1 - Composition for caring for keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2023060387A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/123045
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yuan Ma
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-10-11
Filing date: 2021-10-11
Publication date: 2023-04-20
Also published as: FR3127881A1; FR3127881B1; CN118076331A

Abstract

A composition for caring for keratin materials in form of hydrous gel, comprising: a) at least one water insoluble active ingredient; b) from 0.05wt. % to 0.3wt. % of at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer; c) from 0.05wt. % to 0.2wt. % of at least one xanthan gum; and d) from 0.02wt. % to 0.2wt. % of at least one polymer selected from alginicacid and alginates, wherein the content is calculated based on the total weight of the composition. A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the step of applying the composition as described above to the keratin materials.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular, a composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips, in particular the face. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials using said composition.

BACKGROUD ART

Over time, it appears that keratin materials, such as the skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and hair are subject to ageing, reflected especially by a modification of their structures and their functions.

Endogenously, keratin materials are subject to attacks by superoxide ions, naturally produced during physiological cellular metabolic processes.

Exogenously, keratin materials are in the firing line for exposure to environmental factors which take part in their ageing, such as, for example, sunlight, especially via ultraviolet radiation, or else pollution.

The extrinsic ageing of the skin influenced by the environment supplements the intrinsic ageing linked to age, giving rise to characteristic skin damage and changes which are well described in the literature.

From a cellular and molecular perspective, skin ageing is reflected by a loss in the ability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts to proliferate; a reduction in differentiation markers such as, for example, transglutaminases (TGMs) , and in particular transglutaminase 3; an imbalance between the production of the constituents of the dermis, such as, for example, collagen and fibrillin, and their destruction by different metalloproteases (MMPs) , causing the scales to tip in the favor of degradation of the extracellular matrix and tissue destruction; the loss of molecules whose function is to participate in junctions and in anchoring the epidermis to the dermis, such as, for example, fibronectin and integrin, which leads to weakening of the dermoepidermal junction.

From a macroscopic perspective, skin ageing is apparent with the appearance of wrinkles and of slackness. The aged skin is finer and more fragile than a young skin. Finally, aged skin tends to lose its elasticity, its barrier function against external attacks, and its ability for repair.

Several compositions or methods for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin ageing are known in the prior art.

However, some active ingredients, for example, vitreosilla ferment, are not soluble in water. Thus, it is not easy for them to suspend in hydrous gel-like product stably.

Additionally, some cosmetic products in the market are easily to result in noodles upon application, which is not preferred for consumers.

Thus, it is desired to have a cosmetic product comprising a water insoluble active ingredient without the risk of noodles.

Meanwhile, it is desired to have a cosmetic product with a low viscosity to deliver a fresh sensory.

Therefore, there is a need for a composition for caring for keratin materials with a low viscosity, which can stably suspend a water insoluble active ingredient in the system and does not result in noodles upon application.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.

Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials in form of hydrous gel, comprising:

a) at least one water insoluble active ingredient;

b) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer;

c) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one xanthan gum; and

d) from 0.02 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one polymer selected from alginic acid and alginates,

wherein the content is calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

The water insoluble active ingredient can stably suspend in the composition.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention also provides a fresh skin feeling after application, meanwhile, there is no risk for noodles.

The composition according to the present invention may be used for caring for keratin materials, in particular, the skin.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition as described above to the keratin material.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. The face, the lips and the eyes are most particularly considered according to the present invention.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

a) at least one water insoluble active ingredient;

c) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one xanthan gum; and

wherein the content is calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

Water insoluble active ingredient

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water insoluble active ingredient.

In the context of the present application, the term “water insoluble active ingredient” means that the solubility of the active ingredient in water is no more than 10 g.

As examples of water insoluble active ingredients, mention can be made of vitreoscilla ferment, silica, boron nitride, and a mixture thereof

In recent years, studies have shown that the fermentation product of vitreoscilla has a good effect on antioxidants, which can increase the use of oxygen by the skin, promote cell growth and product synthesis, and make the skin younger.

In some embodiments, the water insoluble active ingredient is vitreoscilla ferment.

As a commerical product of vitreoscilla ferment, mention can be made of

SCW from the company NOVEAL.

The skilled in the art can select the amount of the water insoluble active ingredient based on the intended use.

Advantageously, the water insoluble active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.

Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers that may be mentioned are those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series. Mention may be made of carbomer, which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA. Advantageously, the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, preferably from 0.07 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.08 wt. %to 0.15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Xanthan gum

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one xanthan gum.

Xanthan gum may be, for example, synthesized by fermentation of sugars with the bacterium xanthomonas campestri and mutants or variants thereof.

Xanthan gum may comprise in their structure three different monosaccharides, namely mannose, glucose and glucuronic acid, in salt form, such as in the form of the sodium salt.

Xanthan gum may have, for example, aviscosity ranging from 0.6 to 1.65 Pa. s (measured at 25℃. using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 rpm) . It has a molecular weight ranging, for example, from 1 000 000 to 50 000 000.

Such products may include, for example, Keltrol T sold by the company Keltro, Rhodicare S sold by the company Rhodia, and Kelsan S sold by the company Monsanto Chemical.

Advantageously, xanthan gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, preferably from 0.08 wt. %to 0.12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alginates

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer selected from alginic acid and alginates.

In particular, the alginate is selected from alkali metal salts or ammonium salts of alginic acid. The alginate is water-soluble.

Alginic acid, a natural substance obtained from brown algae or from certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked together via 1, 4-glycoside bonds: β-D-mannuronic acid (M) and α-L-glucuronic acid (G) .

Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, or ammonia. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at pH 4 but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH below 4.

Methods for the recovery of these water-soluble salts, especially sodium alginate, from natural sources are well known, and are described, for example, in Green, U.S. Pat. No. 2,036,934, and Le Gloahec, U.S. Pat. No. 2,128,551.

Suitable alginates have a weight-average molecular weight of about 20,000 Daltons to about 500,000 Daltons. The weight-average molecular weight is calculated by first determining the intrinsic viscosity, then using the Mark-Houwink Sakurada Equation, as in Martinsen, et al, "Comparison of Different Methods for Determination of Molecular Weights and Molecular Weight Distribution of Alginates" (Carbohydr. Polym., 15, 171-193, 1991) .

A list of various commercially available alginates, their properties, and their sources is found in Shapiro, U.S. Pat. No. 6,334,968, Table 1, column 16, line 49, to column 17, line 18, incorporated herein by reference.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the alginate is selected from sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, potassium alginate, and a mixture thereof.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one polymer selected from alginic acid, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, and potassium alginate, and a mixture thereof.

The polymer selected from alginic acid and alginates that are suitable for use in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Kelcosol, Satialgine ^TM, Cecalgum ^TM or Algogel ^TM by the company Cargill Products, under the name Protanal ^TM by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the name PROTANAL PH 6160 by the company DUPONT.

Advantageously, the polymer selected from alginic acid and alginates is present in an amount ranging from 0.02 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, preferably from 0.02 wt. %to 0.15 wt. %, more preferably from 0.03 wt. %to 0.08 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Mineral salts

The composition according to the present invention can be stable even in the presence of a mineral salt.

Thus the composition according to the present invention may comprise a mineral salt.

The mineral salt comprises a metal ion M ⁿ⁺. Preferably, M ⁿ⁺ is selected from Li ⁺, Na ⁺, K ⁺, Mg ²⁺, and Ca ²⁺.

The mineral salt is selected from metal salts of an inorganic acid.

As example of inorganic acid, mention can be made of sulfuric acid, carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, etc.

Preferably, the mineral salt is selected from metal chlorides, sulfates, nitrates, carbonates and hydrogen carbonates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the metal is selected from Li, Na, K, Mg, and Ca.

More preferably, the mineral salt is selected from calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, calcium nitrate, calcium carbonate and calcium hydrogen carbonate, sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, sodium nitrate, sodium carbonate and sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium carbonate and potassium hydrogen carbonate, lithium chloride, lithium sulfate, lithium nitrate, lithium carbonate and lithium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, , and mixtures thereof.

If presents, the mineral salt is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water

The composition according to the present invention is in the form of hydrous gel.

Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 80 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 82 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from pH adjusting agents (e.g. citric acid) , preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorphenesin) , fragrances (e.g. perfumes, essential oils) , humectants (such as, propanediol, hydroxyethyl urea, acetamide MEA, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, methyl gluceth-20, sodium hyaluronate) .

A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

Viscosity

The composition according to the present invention has a low viscosity.

The viscosity of the composition can be determined at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 rotating at 200 rpm.

Advantageously, the composition has a viscosity ranging from 60 UD to 90 UD, as determined at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 rotating at 200 rpm.

If the viscosity is below 60UD (M1) , there will be drop problem, and if the viscosity is higher than 90UD (M1) , a desired sensory will cannot be achieved.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for caring for keratin materials in the form of hydrous gel, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of vitreoscilla ferment;

b) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of at least one acrylic acid homopolymer crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;

c) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one xanthan gum; and

d) from 0.02 wt. %to 0.15 wt. %of at least one polymer selected from alginic acid, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, and potassium alginate, and a mixture thereof,

wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range 60-90 UD, as determined at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 rotating at 200 rpm.

Galenic forms and use

The composition according to the present invention is in the form of gel.

The composition according to the present invention may be used for caring for keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

It may be used as a daily skincare.

Thus, in the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition as described above to the keratin material.

The composition according to the present invention can deliver a fresh skin feeling after application, meanwhile, there is no risk for noodles.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Comparative Examples 1-8 and Invention Examples 1-3

Compositions of comparative examples (CE. ) 1-8 and invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Preparation process

The compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition according to invention example 1 as an example:

1) . 40 wt. %of water was heated to 80℃, then carbomer, glycerin, hydroxyacetophenone, sodium hyaluronate, and a premix phase (including propanediol, algin, PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin) were added with stirring,

2) . 40 wt. %of water was added with stirring,

3) . sodium citrate and citric acid were added,

4) . mineral salt and vitreoscilla ferment were added to obtain the composition.

Evaluation of compositions

The compositions prepared above were evaluated.

Stability

The stability of each composition was evaluated as follows:

1) filling 40 mL of the sample into a 60 mL glass bottle and preparing six bottles for each composition to be tested;

2) putting one bottle under the sunlight, one bottle at room temperature, one bottle into a refrigerator at 4℃, one bottle into an oven at 37℃ and one bottle into an oven at 45℃ (for stability tests at different temperatures) , and one bottle into an oven with the temperature cycling from-20℃ to 20℃ (for cycle stability) ; and

3) observing the samples’ appearance after 2 months for stability tests at different temperatures, 10 days for cycle stability, 24 hours for sunlight stability.

The stability will be evaluated as PASS if its appearance does not change after all of the stability tests at different temperature and that cycle stability test, otherwise, it will be evaluated as FAILED.

Viscosity

For each composition, the viscosity was measured at 25℃ by means of the Rheomat RM 180 apparatus, marketed by the company LAMY, equipped with a mobile MS-R1, rotating at 200 rpm. The viscosity values were measured after 10 minutes of shear.

Noodle Prevention performance

The noodle prevention performance was evaluated by one sensory expert through special gesture as below:

1) applying 0.3 ml sample on the face;

2) bending the fingers;

3) gliding the knuckles over the subject’s skin using slight pressure.

The levels for noodle prevention are as followed:

Excellent: no or very little noodle was found

Good: little noodle was found

OK: some noodles were found

Not good: large amount of noodles were found

The results of above tests are summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

	Viscosity (UD)	Stability	Noodle Prevention
IE. 1	80	PASS	Yes
IE. 2	75	PASS	Yes
IE. 3	90	PASS	Yes
CE. 1	60	FAIL	Yes
CE. 2	58	FAIL	Yes
CE. 3	63	FAIL	Yes
CE. 4	70	FAIL	Yes
CE. 5	75	FAIL	Yes
CE. 6	75	FAIL	Yes
CE. 7	95	PASS	Yes
CE. 8	87	FAIL	Yes

It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention has a low viscosity in the range of 60-90 UD, as determined at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 rotating at 200 rpm, is stable over time, and do not have the risk of resulting in noodles upon application.

Claims

A composition for caring for keratin materials in form of hydrous gel, comprising:

a) at least one water insoluble active ingredient;

b) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer;

c) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one xanthan gum; and

d) from 0.02 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one polymer selected from alginic acid and alginates,

wherein the content is calculated based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the water insoluble active ingredient is selected from vitreoscilla ferment, silica, boron nitride, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water insoluble active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer is selected from those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series, preferably selected from homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.07 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, preferably from 0.08 wt. %to 0.15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein xanthan gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.08 wt. %to 0.12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the alginate is selected from sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, potassium alginate, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the polymer selected from alginic acid and alginates is present in an amount ranging from 0.02 wt. %to 0.15 wt. %, preferably from 0.03 wt. %to 0.08 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a mineral salt comprising a metal ion M ⁿ⁺ selected from Li ⁺, Na ⁺, K ⁺, Mg ²⁺, and Ca ²⁺.
The composition according to claim 9, wherein the mineral salt is selected from calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, calcium nitrate, calcium carbonate and calcium hydrogen carbonate, sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, sodium nitrate, sodium carbonate and sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium carbonate and potassium hydrogen carbonate, lithium chloride, lithium sulfate, lithium nitrate, lithium carbonate and lithium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, , and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the mineral salt is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 60 UD to 90 UD, as determined at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 rotating at 200 rpm.
The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 0.01 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of vitreoscilla ferment;

b) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of at least one acrylic acid homopolymer crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;

c) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.2 wt. %of at least one xanthan gum; and

d) from 0.02 wt. %to 0.15 wt. %of at least one polymer selected from alginic acid, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, and potassium alginate, and a mixture thereof,

wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range 60-90 UD, as determined at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 rotating at 200 rpm.
A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the step of applying the composition as described above to the keratin material.