WO2021172565A1 - 複合紡績糸及び織編物 - Google Patents

複合紡績糸及び織編物 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021172565A1
WO2021172565A1 PCT/JP2021/007538 JP2021007538W WO2021172565A1 WO 2021172565 A1 WO2021172565 A1 WO 2021172565A1 JP 2021007538 W JP2021007538 W JP 2021007538W WO 2021172565 A1 WO2021172565 A1 WO 2021172565A1
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Prior art keywords
mass
short fibers
spun yarn
yarn
composite spun
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PCT/JP2021/007538
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English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
信一郎 瀧
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ユニチカトレーディング株式会社
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Priority to JP2022503370A priority Critical patent/JPWO2021172565A1/ja
Publication of WO2021172565A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021172565A1/ja

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composite spun yarn that can be used in the production of woven and knitted fabrics for clothing having a soft texture that is smooth to the touch and a high-quality luster.
  • the present invention also relates to a woven or knitted fabric for clothing that is woven and knitted using the composite spun yarn.
  • a woven or knitted fabric for business use has been developed in which quick-drying property and W & W property are imparted by using a spun yarn obtained by blending a natural fiber and a polyester fiber.
  • resin processing is applied to impart functionality, many of them impair the soft texture of the main body of natural fibers.
  • polyester short fibers having a specific single fiber fineness in the core and two types of cellulosic short fibers satisfying a specific micronea fineness in the sheath. By weaving and knitting using composite spun yarns in which I found that I could do it.
  • the present invention has been completed by further studies based on such findings.
  • the cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn has a core and a sheath, and has a core and a sheath.
  • the core portion contains 70% by mass or more of polyester-based short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 decitex or less.
  • the sheath portion is made of cellulosic short fibers, and the cellulosic short fibers have a cellulosic short fiber A having a micronea fineness of 2.6 to 3.8 ⁇ g / inch and a micronea fineness of 3.8 ⁇ g / inch.
  • the total amount of the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers B in the sheath portion is 90% by mass or more, and the mass of the cellulosic short fibers A with respect to the cellulose short fibers B is contained.
  • Composite spun yarn having a ratio (A / B) of 70/30 to 30/70.
  • Item 2. The composite spun yarn according to Item 1, wherein the polyester-based short fibers have a content of inorganic oxide fine particles of 0 to 0.3% by mass.
  • Item 5. A woven or knitted fabric for clothing containing the composite spun yarn according to any one of Items 1 to 4 as a constituent fiber.
  • Item 6. Item 2. The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to Item 5, wherein the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is a woven or knitted fabric for a shirt.
  • the woven and knitted fabric for clothing woven and knitted using the composite spun yarn of the present invention is excellent in the soft texture of cellulosic short fibers, easy care by polyester short fibers, and also excellent in high-quality luster. Therefore, according to the woven and knitted fabric for clothing woven and knitted using the composite spun yarn of the present invention, it is possible to provide business wear such as shirts, pants and suits suitable for the business scene and the formal scene.
  • the composite spun yarn of the present invention has a core portion and a sheath portion having a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the core portion is a polyester type having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 decitex or less.
  • the sheath portion contains 70% by mass or more of short fibers, the sheath portion is made of cellulose-based short fibers, and the cellulose-based short fibers are the same as the cellulose-based short fibers A having a micronea fineness of 2.6 to 3.8 ⁇ g / inch.
  • the total amount of the cellulose-based short fiber A and the cellulose-based short fiber B in the sheath portion is 90% by mass or more, and the cellulose-based short fiber B is contained.
  • the mass ratio (A / B) of the cellulose-based short fiber A to B is 70/30 to 30/70.
  • the "composite spun yarn” refers to a spun yarn having a composite structure (that is, a core-sheath structure) in which a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn has a core portion and a sheath portion.
  • the polyester-based short fibers forming the core are covered with the cellulose-based short fibers forming the sheath, so that the polyester-based short fibers in the core, particularly the core, are covered.
  • the binding force between the polyester-based short fiber group of the core portion existing at the boundary portion between the portion and the sheath portion and the cellulose-based short fiber group of the sheath portion existing at the boundary portion of the core portion is enhanced.
  • binding force also appears in the cellulosic short fiber group of the sheath, and as a result, the tensile strength of the composite spun yarn is increased, fluffing is suppressed, and the anti-pilling property can be maintained at a high level. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric suitable for business wear, which is excellent in easy care and high-quality luster, while maintaining a soft texture and feel as a short fiber material.
  • FIG. 1 shows a schematic cross-sectional view of a composite spun yarn having a core-sheath structure having 1 to 3 cores.
  • (a) is a schematic cross-sectional view having one core
  • (b) has two cores
  • (c) has three cores.
  • the core region and the sheath region are color-coded, but in reality, polyester-based short fibers are present in the core region, and the sheath region has Has cellulosic short fibers.
  • the number of core portions is preferably 1 or 2, and more preferably 1. Further, from the viewpoint of suppressing the generation of fluff in the post-processing such as the yarn dyeing step, the number of cores is preferably 2 or 3.
  • Polyester-based short fibers are included as constituent fibers of the core portion of the composite spun yarn of the present invention.
  • the single fiber fineness of the polyester-based short fibers used for the core is 1.3 decitex or less. If the single fiber fineness of the polyester-based short fibers exceeds 1.3 decitex, the soft texture and high-quality luster of the woven and knitted fabric for clothing will be impaired. From the viewpoint of further improving the soft texture and high-quality luster of woven and knitted fabrics for clothing, the single fiber fineness of polyester-based short fibers is preferably 0.5 to 1.3 decitex, more preferably 0.6 to 0.6. 1.2 Decitex is mentioned. In the present invention, the single fiber fineness of polyester-based short fibers is measured according to the A method specified in "8.5.1 Positive amount fineness" of the Japanese Industrial Standards "JIS L 1015: 2010 Chemical Fiber Staple Test Method". Value.
  • the constituent resin of the polyester-based short fibers may be a polyester-based resin, and specific examples thereof include polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate.
  • the polyester-based resin used as the constituent resin of the polyester-based short fiber is an aromatic acid such as isophthalic acid or 5-sulfoisophthalic acid, if necessary, while considering the melt viscosity, thermal properties and compatibility.
  • Dicarboxylic acid Dicarboxylic acid; aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid, succinic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid; aliphatic diol such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol Hydroxycarboxylic acids such as glycolic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxysuberic acid, hydroxycaproic acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxyheptanic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid; aliphatic lactones such as ⁇ -caprolactone may be copolymerized. ..
  • the polyester-based short fibers may contain inorganic oxide fine particles such as titanium oxide, silicon dioxide, and aluminum dioxide.
  • the content thereof is preferably 0.3% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.01 to 0.2% by mass. If the content of the inorganic fine powder in the polyester-based short fibers is too large, the luster of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing may be impaired, but within the above range, a high-quality luster can be imparted.
  • the content ratio of the polyester-based short fibers may be 70% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more, still more preferably 85% by mass or more, based on the total amount of constituent fibers in the core portion. 90% by mass or more can be mentioned. If the content ratio of the polyester-based short fibers in the core is less than 70% by mass, the ratio of the polyester-based resin in the composite spun yarn becomes small, so that the woven and knitted fabric for clothing dries quickly and has W & W properties (wash and wear properties). ) Is inferior in easy care, and tends to be insufficient in terms of soft texture and high-quality luster. That is, the constituent fibers of the core portion may be only polyester-based short fibers, and the polyester-based short fibers are blended with other short fibers as long as the polyester-based short fibers are contained in an amount of 70% by mass or more. It may have been.
  • the type of the short fibers is not particularly limited, but cellulose-based short fibers are preferable.
  • the type of the cellulosic short fiber is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include natural fibers such as cotton and hemp; and regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon, cupra, and tencel (modal, lyocell) made from cellulose. Among these, natural fibers are preferable, and cotton is more preferable.
  • the sheath portion of the composite spun yarn of the present invention is made of cellulosic short fibers, and the cellulosic short fibers include cellulosic short fibers A having a micronea fineness of 2.6 to 3.8 ⁇ g / inch and microneas. Cellulose-based short fibers B having a fineness of more than 3.8 ⁇ g / inch are included.
  • the micronea fineness of the cellulosic short fiber A may be 2.6 to 3.8 ⁇ g / inch, preferably 2.6 to 3.6 ⁇ g / inch, and more preferably 3.0 to 3.2 ⁇ g / inch.
  • the type of cellulosic short fiber A is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include natural fibers such as cotton and hemp; and regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon, cupra, and tencel (modal, lyocell) made from cellulose. Among these, natural fibers are preferable, and cotton is more preferable.
  • the micronea fineness of the cellulosic short fiber is a value measured according to the method specified in "7.4.1 Micronear method" of the Japanese Industrial Standards "JIS L 1019: 2006 cotton fiber test method". be.
  • the micronea fineness of the cellulosic short fiber B may be more than 3.8 ⁇ g / inch, but is preferably 3.9 to 5.5 ⁇ g / inch, more preferably 4.0 to 5.2 ⁇ g / inch, and even more preferably. Examples include 4.8 to 5.0 ⁇ g / inch.
  • the type of cellulosic short fiber B is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include natural fibers such as cotton and hemp; and regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon, cupra, and tencel (modal, lyocell) made from cellulose. Among these, natural fibers are preferable, and cotton is more preferable.
  • the mass ratio (A / B) of the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers B is set to 30/70 to 70/30. Since the cellulosic short fiber A has a low fineness, it contributes to a soft texture and a glossy feeling. A glossy feeling may not be exhibited. In the present invention, in order to make up for such a defect, by using the cellulosic short fiber B, which has a higher fineness than the cellulosic short fiber A, in the above mass ratio, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is not slimy. It is possible to have a soft texture that is smooth to the touch and to have a high-quality luster.
  • the mass ratio (A / B) of the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers B is preferably 35/65 to 65 from the viewpoint of further improving the soft texture and high-quality luster of the woven and knitted fabric for clothing. / 35, more preferably 40/60 to 60/40.
  • the total amount of the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers B in the sheath portion is limited to 90% by mass or more, and the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers other than the cellulosic short fibers B are limited to 90% by mass or more.
  • Fiber may be included.
  • the total amount of the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers B in the sheath portion is preferably 95% by mass or more, more preferably 100% by mass.
  • the mass ratio of polyester-based short fibers to cellulose-based short fibers is not particularly limited.
  • the mass ratio of polyester-based short fibers: cellulose-based short fibers is 55:45 to 20: 80, preferably 50:50 to 25:75, more preferably 45:55 to 30:70.
  • easy-care properties such as quick-drying and W & W properties (wash & wear properties) become even better, and even more excellent softness. It is possible to give a texture and a high-quality luster.
  • the mass ratio of polyester-based short fibers to cellulosic short fibers is determined by "6.2. It is a value measured according to the method specified in "270% Sulfate Method".
  • the count of the composite spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include an English-style count of 30 to 80, preferably 40 to 70, and more preferably 45 to 55. By satisfying such a count range, it is possible to suppress a decrease in the covering property and spinnability of the composite spun yarn, and to suitably provide the fabric physical characteristics (strength and elongation) required for a woven or knitted fabric for clothing. ..
  • the count of the composite spun yarn shall be in accordance with the methods specified in "9.3 positive amount” and "9.4 tex and number" of the Japanese Industrial Standards "JIS L 1095: 2010 general spun yarn test method". It is a value to be measured.
  • the number of twists of the composite spun yarn of the present invention is particularly limited, and examples thereof include a twist coefficient K of 3.0 to 4.5, preferably 3.4 to 4.2. By satisfying such a twist coefficient, it is possible to exhibit a more excellent soft texture and a high-quality luster while suppressing a decrease in tensile strength and anti-pilling property by dyeing or the like.
  • the twist coefficient K of the composite spun yarn is twisted according to the method specified in the B method of the JIS method of "number from 9.15" of the Japanese Industrial Standard "JIS L 1095: 2010 general spun yarn test method". It is a value calculated according to the following formula by measuring the number.
  • the composite spun yarn of the present invention may be pre-dyed (pre-dyed) and colored before weaving and knitting.
  • the method of yarn-dying the composite spun yarn is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a method of dyeing the composite spun yarn with a cheese dyeing machine, a kase dyeing machine, or the like.
  • the dye used for dyeing composite spinning is not particularly limited as long as it can be used for clothing, but in consideration of dyeability, dyeing fastness, dyeing concentration, etc., for example, polyester-based short fibers may be dyed.
  • a disperse dye may be used, and a reactive dye may be used for dyeing cellulose-based short fibers.
  • a fluorescent dye may be used for dyeing the composite spun yarn, if necessary.
  • the method for producing a composite spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but a preferred example of the method for producing a composite spun yarn will be described below with reference to the drawings.
  • FIG. 2 shows a schematic side view of an example of a scouring machine for producing the sloppy yarn
  • FIG. 3 shows a schematic plan view of an example of the slab spinning machine for producing the blister yarn.
  • a general cotton spinning process such as a "blended cotton process", a "card (carding) process", and a "combing process” for cotton fibers are performed.
  • the kneaded ascending sliver S1 using polyester-based short fibers for the core portion and the kneaded ascending sliver S2 made of cellulose-based short fibers for the sheath portion are shown in FIGS.
  • the back roller (A), middle roller (B), apron (C), and front roller (D) of the rough spinning machine having the structure shown in the figure) are passed in this order, and drafted (stretched) to a predetermined thickness.
  • the sheath portion sliver (S2) is wound around the core portion sliver (S1) between the front roller (D) and the fryer head to form the core sheath structure, whereby a coarse yarn having a core sheath structure is obtained.
  • FIG. 4 shows a schematic view of an example of a spinning / twisting device (compact spinning frame).
  • a method for manufacturing a composite spun yarn having two cores using two coarse yarns having a core-sheath structure will be described. Specifically, first, two coarse yarns (11a and 11b) are set, and the two crude yarns are passed through the back roller (2) of the compact spinning frame at intervals without being brought into close contact with each other.
  • a fleece (fiber bundle) with a plurality of core-sheath structures drafted (stretched) and untwisted is placed on the ventilation apron (6).
  • the fibers are converged by the suction pressure of the slit of the fluffing device (5), and the fluffing is performed by improving the parallelism.
  • the focused fleece (fiber bundle) is nipated at the outlet of the deliberry roller (8), and after being given a predetermined twist, it passes through a snail guide (40) to form a composite spun yarn having two cores. Taken up by the bobbin.
  • a composite spun yarn having two cores is obtained by spinning the crude yarns at intervals so that the crude yarns do not come into close contact with each other and then twisting them together. Can be done. That is, the number of cores of the obtained composite spun yarn is determined by the number of blister yarns passed through the back roller of the spinning frame.
  • the sheath portion is nipped at the outlet of the front roller and a predetermined twist is applied, the sheath portions are entangled with each other to form an integrated sheath portion. Threads are formed. Then, by the above-mentioned manufacturing method, the fluff on the surface of each fiber bundle is twisted and entangled and integrated, and a composite spun yarn having less fluff can be obtained.
  • the distance between the two blister yarns at the time of spinning may be appropriately adjusted depending on the material of the fiber to be used, the blister yarn mass, the draft ratio, etc. Examples thereof include 5 mm to 20 mm, preferably 3.5 mm to 14 mm. By setting such an interval, it is possible to form the two core portions as designed without bringing the drafted coarse yarns into close contact with each other, and it is possible to suppress poor yarn quality and poor spinning operation.
  • the fluffing of the composite spun yarn generated in the bath in the yarn dyeing step can be suppressed, so that the fabric after knitting and knitting (particularly spinning generated from the intersection of the fabrics)
  • the fluff of the thread) is reduced, and a high-quality luster can be more preferably provided.
  • the fluffing treatment may be performed using a fluffing apparatus.
  • a yarn fluff baking device such as a fluff burning device manufactured by Metler
  • Metler is used to burn out the fluff of the composite spun yarn by passing the composite spun yarn through the flame part of the gas burner at a constant speed. Can be done by.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention contains the composite spun yarn as a constituent fiber, and is obtained by weaving and knitting using the composite spun yarn.
  • the "woven or knitted fabric” refers to a woven fabric or a knitted fabric.
  • the mixing ratio of the constituent yarns in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but the proportion of the composite spun yarn is 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, more preferably 70% by mass or more, still more preferably 80% by mass. % Or more, particularly preferably 90% by mass or more.
  • the composite spun yarn in such a ratio, a soft texture and a high-quality luster can be effectively provided.
  • the composite spun yarn is yarn-dyed.
  • the yarn-dyed composite spun yarn it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a deep color that does not easily fade during weaving and knitting. Further, by using a composite spun yarn of two or more colors, various patterns can be clearly expressed.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a plain design, the woven or knitted fabric may be dyed (post-dyed).
  • liquid ammonia processing or the like may be performed as a post-processing after weaving and knitting.
  • the cotton fibers can be mercerized by applying liquid ammonia treatment after weaving and knitting, and the strength of the cotton fibers can be changed. , Texture, W & W property, glossiness, etc. can be improved.
  • the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention has a soft texture and a high-quality luster, it is suitably used as a woven and knitted fabric for clothing.
  • woven and knitted fabrics for clothing include shirts with collars (business shirts), cutter shirts, dress shirts, dress blouses, working shirts, button-down shirts, dungary shirts, polo shirts, etc. used in the business scene. Can be mentioned.
  • the woven and knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is particularly preferably used as a fabric for business shirts, dress shirts, and dress blouses.
  • the structure of the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately set according to the intended use.
  • weaves such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, dobby weave, and double weave may be used, and in the case of knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, smooth fabrics, milling cutters, and pickets. It may be a knitting organization such as a round knit, a single tricot, a half tricot, or the like.
  • weaves such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, smooth, picket, and half tricot. Is preferable.
  • micronea fineness of cellulosic short fibers The micronea fineness of cellulosic short fibers was measured according to the method specified in "7.4.1 Micronea method" of the Japanese Industrial Standards "JIS L 1019: 2006 Cotton Fiber Test Method". ..
  • Twist coefficient K of spun yarn The twist coefficient K of the spun yarn is measured according to the method specified in Method B of the JIS method of "Numbers from 9.15 of Japanese Industrial Standards” JIS L 1095: 2010 General Spinning Yarn Test Method "", and the twist number is as follows. Calculated according to the formula.
  • Mass ratio of polyester-based short fibers and cellulose-based short fibers of spun yarn The mass ratio of polyester-based short fibers and cellulose-based short fibers is the Japanese Industrial Standard "JIS L 1030-1: 2012 Textile product mixing ratio test method-1st. Part: Measured according to the method specified in "6.2.2 70% sulfuric acid method" of "Fiber discrimination".
  • Number of fluffs of spun yarn The number of fluffs of spun yarn is determined by using a fluff tester (F-index tester manufactured by Shikibo Co., Ltd.) in "9.22" of Japanese Industrial Standards "JIS L 1095: 2010 General Spinning Yarn Test Method”. According to “9.22.2 B method” of "fluff", the number of fluffs of 3 mm or more and fluffs of 5 mm or more (pieces / 10 m) protruding from the surface of the spun yarn was measured.
  • the woven fabric was visually observed by 10 evaluators who were trained in the glossiness of the woven fabric, the degree of gloss was evaluated, and the woven fabric was scored according to the following criteria. The total score of the 10 evaluators is shown as a result. 3 points: Excellent high-quality luster without glare. 2 points: There is a slight high-quality luster without glare. 1 point: The glossiness is strong or the glossiness is weak.
  • the short fibers used The physical characteristics, sources, etc. of the short fibers used in the examples and comparative examples are as follows.
  • -Polyester short fiber 1 Polyester short fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.05% by mass of titanium oxide (manufactured by Nanya Co., Ltd .; fiber length 38 mm, single fiber fineness 0.9 dtex)
  • -Polyester short fiber 2 Titanium oxide 0.
  • Polyester short fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate containing 3% by mass (manufactured by Nippon Ester Co., Ltd., single fiber fineness 1.3 dtex, fiber length 38 mm)
  • Polyyester short fiber 3 Polyester short fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.1% by mass of titanium oxide (manufactured by Nippon Ester Co., Ltd., fiber length 38 mm, single fiber fineness 1.45 dtex)
  • a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used as the wrapping sliver S2 forming the sheath portion.
  • the sliver S1 and the sliver S2 are supplied to the back roller portion of the smelting machine and drafted (stretched) 13.7 times between the back roller A and the front roller D to the flyer head of the sliver S1 in the draft direction in FIG.
  • the sliver S1 After covering the sliver S1 with the sliver S2 while passing through the traveling angle ⁇ of 60 degrees, the sliver S1 was wound by the rotation of the fryer to obtain a coarse yarn having a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch. ..
  • a part of the obtained composite spun yarn was dyed with fluorescent white of a disperse dye and a reactive dye, and another part of the obtained composite spun yarn was dyed with sax blue.
  • the composite spun yarn dyed in fluorescent white is used as the warp yarn, and the composite spun yarn dyed in sax blue is used as the weft yarn.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a finishing density of 143 yarns / ⁇ , 92 wefts / ⁇ , and a grain of 128 g / m 2 was obtained.
  • Example 2 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 155 gr / 6 yd composed of 90% by mass of polyester short fibers 1, 5% by mass of cotton fibers 1, and 5% by mass of cotton fibers 2 was used. .. Further, as the wrapping sliver S2 forming the sheath portion, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 300 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used.
  • the slivers S1 and S2 are supplied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, except that the draft ratio is 11.4 times between the back roller A and the front roller D.
  • Got The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 200 gr / 30 yd and a number of twists of the crude yarn of 0.95 T / inch.
  • One blister yarn obtained above was supplied to a spinning frame having the structure shown in FIG. 4 to produce a composite spun yarn having one core formed. Specifically, one blister yarn obtained above is passed through a trumpet 1a of a spinning machine and drafted at a draft rate of 40.0 times between a back roller and a front roller to form one core portion. A composite spun yarn was obtained.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 3 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 250 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of polyester short fibers 1 was used. As the wrapping sliver S2 forming the sheath portion, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 205 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. The slivers S1 and S2 are supplied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, except that the draft ratio is 11.4 times between the back roller A and the front roller D. Got The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 200 gr / 30 yd and a number of twists of the crude yarn of 0.95 T / inch.
  • Example 2 Using the obtained blister yarn, a composite spun yarn having one core formed under the same conditions as in Example 2 was produced.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 4 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 90 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of polyester short fibers 1 was used. As the wrapping sliver S2 forming the sheath portion, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 365 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. The slivers S1 and S2 are supplied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, except that the draft ratio is 11.4 times between the back roller A and the front roller D. Got The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 200 gr / 30 yd and a number of twists of the crude yarn of 0.95 T / inch.
  • Example 2 Using the obtained blister yarn, a composite spun yarn having one core formed under the same conditions as in Example 2 was produced.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 5 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 95 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of polyester short fibers 1 was used. As the wrapping sliver S2 forming the sheath portion, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 60% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 40% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. Under the same conditions as in Example 1, the slivers S1 and S2 were supplied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine to obtain blister yarn. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 6 As the sliver S2 forming the sheath, the same conditions as in Example 5 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 40% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 60% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. Crude yarn was obtained. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 7 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 120 gr / 6 yd composed of 90% by mass of polyester short fibers 1, 5% by mass of cotton fibers 1 and 5% by mass of cotton fibers 2 was used. .. Further, as the wrapping sliver S2 forming the sheath portion, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 239 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used.
  • the slivers S1 and S2 are supplied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, except that the draft ratio is 13.8 times between the back roller A and the front roller D.
  • Got The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 130 gr / 30 yd and a number of twists of the crude yarn of 1.25 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 165 warp / inch, 110 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 125 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 8 Under the same conditions as in Example 1, a crude yarn having a mass of 105 gr / 30 y and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch was obtained.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 130 warp / inch, 80 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 135 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 9 As the sliver S2 forming the sheath, the same conditions as in Example 1 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 3 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. , Obtained blister yarn. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 10 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 155 gr / 6 yd composed of 90% by mass of polyester short fibers 2, 5% by mass of cotton fibers 1 and 5% by mass of cotton fibers 2 was used. Crude yarn was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 2 except for the above. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 200 gr / 30 yd and a number of twists of the crude yarn of 0.95 T / inch.
  • Example 2 Using the obtained blister yarn, a composite spun yarn having one core formed under the same conditions as in Example 2 was produced.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 11 The same conditions as in Example 1 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 4 was used as the sliver S2 forming the sheath portion. So, I got a blister yarn. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • sliver S1 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 40 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of polyester short fibers 1 was used. As the sliver S2 forming the sheath portion, a kneaded sliver having a mass of 210 gr / 6 yd composed of 40% by mass of cotton fiber 1, 40% by mass of cotton fiber 2, and 20% by mass of polyester short fiber 1 was used.
  • the slivers S1 and S2 are supplied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine under the same conditions as in the first embodiment except that the draft ratio is 11.9 times between the back roller A and the front roller D. Got The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a number of twists of the crude yarn of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 3 As the sliver S2 forming the sheath, the same conditions as in Example 5 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 20% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 80% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. , Obtained blister yarn. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 4 A crude yarn was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 5 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used as the sliver S2 forming the sheath portion. ..
  • the obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 5 As the sliver S2 forming the sheath, the same conditions as in Example 5 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 80% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 20% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was used. Crude yarn was obtained. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Example 6 Crude yarn was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 5 except that a kneaded sliver having a mass of 193 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of cotton fiber 1 was used as the sliver S2 forming the sheath portion.
  • the obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • a card sliver (E) having a mass of 370 gr / 6 yd composed of 100% by mass of polyester short fibers 1 was prepared. Further, a combo river (C) having a mass of 340 gr / 6 yd composed of 50% by mass of cotton fiber 1 and 50% by mass of cotton fiber 2 was prepared. Two card slivers (E) and five combo slivers (C) are drafted 7 times in the kneading process and blended to create a kneading sliver, and then the kneading sliver is applied to the back roller portion of the scouring machine. Was drafted between the back roller A and the front roller D at a draft ratio of 8 times to obtain a crude yarn having a mass of 200 gr / 30 yd and a coarse yarn twist number of 0.95 T / ⁇ .
  • One blister yarn obtained above was used in a spinning machine having the structure shown in FIG. 4 to produce a polyester cotton blended yarn. Specifically, one blister yarn obtained above was passed through a back roller of a spinning machine and drafted between the back roller and the front roller at a draft ratio of 40.0 times to obtain a polyester cotton blended yarn.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / ⁇ , 92 weft / ⁇ , and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1. rice field.
  • Example 8 As the sliver S1 forming the core, a kneaded sliver composed of 90% by mass of polyester short fibers 3, 5% by mass of cotton fibers 1 and 5% by mass of cotton fibers 2 was used. Crude yarn was obtained in the same conditions as in Example 5. The obtained crude yarn had a mass of 105 gr / 30 yd and a twist number of 1.4 T / inch.
  • a chambray woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure, a finishing density of 143 warp / inch, 92 wefts / inch, and a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained composite spun yarn and woven fabric.
  • the core portion contains 70% by mass or more of polyester-based short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.3 decitex or less
  • the sheath portion is formed only of cellulose-based short fibers.
  • the sheath contains cellulosic short fibers A having a micronea fineness of 2.6 to 3.8 ⁇ g / inch and cellulose short fibers B having a micronea fineness of more than 3.8 ⁇ g / inch, (iv) sheath.
  • the total amount of the cellulosic short fibers A and the cellulosic short fibers B in the portion is 90% by mass or more, and (v) the mass ratio (A / B) of the cellulosic short fibers B to the cellulose short fibers A is 70 /. It was confirmed that the woven fabric obtained by weaving a composite spun yarn satisfying all of 30 to 30/70 has a soft texture with a smooth touch and a high-quality luster. Further, it was confirmed that when a composite spun yarn that does not satisfy any one of (i) to (v) above is used, a woven fabric having a soft texture that is smooth to the touch and a high-quality luster cannot be obtained.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
PCT/JP2021/007538 2020-02-28 2021-02-26 複合紡績糸及び織編物 WO2021172565A1 (ja)

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Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS6159678U (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1984-09-20 1986-04-22
JPH04100917A (ja) * 1990-08-16 1992-04-02 Toray Ind Inc 矩形状断面ポリエステル繊維
JPH073588A (ja) * 1993-06-14 1995-01-06 Toyobo Co Ltd 柔軟性と光沢に優れた新規な木綿編物
JPH07150430A (ja) * 1993-11-25 1995-06-13 Toyobo Co Ltd 防シワ性に優れた麻複合糸及び布帛
JPH10110328A (ja) * 1996-10-03 1998-04-28 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd 透け防止性に優れたポリエステル繊維及びその製造方法
JP2001064837A (ja) * 1999-08-25 2001-03-13 Unitika Ltd 三層構造紡績糸の製造方法
JP2004068210A (ja) * 2002-08-07 2004-03-04 Toyobo Co Ltd ポリエステル繊維含有布帛及びその製造方法
JP2014058758A (ja) * 2012-09-19 2014-04-03 Toyobo Stc Co Ltd 接触冷感に優れる編物
JP2015045111A (ja) * 2013-08-29 2015-03-12 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 吸水速乾性編地

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS6159678U (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1984-09-20 1986-04-22
JPH04100917A (ja) * 1990-08-16 1992-04-02 Toray Ind Inc 矩形状断面ポリエステル繊維
JPH073588A (ja) * 1993-06-14 1995-01-06 Toyobo Co Ltd 柔軟性と光沢に優れた新規な木綿編物
JPH07150430A (ja) * 1993-11-25 1995-06-13 Toyobo Co Ltd 防シワ性に優れた麻複合糸及び布帛
JPH10110328A (ja) * 1996-10-03 1998-04-28 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd 透け防止性に優れたポリエステル繊維及びその製造方法
JP2001064837A (ja) * 1999-08-25 2001-03-13 Unitika Ltd 三層構造紡績糸の製造方法
JP2004068210A (ja) * 2002-08-07 2004-03-04 Toyobo Co Ltd ポリエステル繊維含有布帛及びその製造方法
JP2014058758A (ja) * 2012-09-19 2014-04-03 Toyobo Stc Co Ltd 接触冷感に優れる編物
JP2015045111A (ja) * 2013-08-29 2015-03-12 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 吸水速乾性編地

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