WO2018173816A1 - 美白剤 - Google Patents
美白剤 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2018173816A1 WO2018173816A1 PCT/JP2018/009351 JP2018009351W WO2018173816A1 WO 2018173816 A1 WO2018173816 A1 WO 2018173816A1 JP 2018009351 W JP2018009351 W JP 2018009351W WO 2018173816 A1 WO2018173816 A1 WO 2018173816A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
- A61K8/492—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid having condensed rings, e.g. indol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a whitening agent.
- TRP-1 tyrosinase-related protein 1
- Patent Document 2 It is a kind of carotenoid pigment for the purpose of preventing or reducing UV-induced skin irritation and accompanying skin deterioration by single ingestion using an edible plant-derived extract.
- An oral skin protective agent using crocetin has been proposed (Patent Document 2).
- D-alanine and D-hydroxyproline have been reported as D-amino acids that affect proteins present in large amounts in the basement membrane that separates the epidermis and dermis (Patent Document 3).
- One or more whitening agents selected from hydroquinone glycosides, alkoxysalicylic acid and / or salts thereof, and ⁇ -glycosyl-L-ascorbic acid for the purpose of significantly improving the whitening effect and improving rough skin Skin external preparations containing the above-mentioned betaine derivatives, higher fatty acids, and one or more selected from L-serine, D-serine, DL-serine, alanine, and aminomethylpropanediol. (Patent Document 4).
- the physiologically active substance having an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase disclosed in Patent Document 1 is obtained by alcohol extraction of Yorca masou and / or Inudouna.
- the melanin pigment is suppressed by a tyrosinase inhibitory component and an antioxidant component in addition to the MITF inhibitory action. That is, it is recognized that the physiologically active substance having the inhibitory action of tyrosinase disclosed in Patent Document 1 is insufficient in the inhibitory action of tyrosinase gene expression.
- crocetin disclosed in Patent Document 2 is effective in erythema strength (ie, inflammation due to ultraviolet rays). However, it has not been proved that the effect can be obtained even in a state where melanin such as stains and freckles is deposited.
- Patent Document 3 discloses that when a D-amino acid compound such as D-aspartic acid is used, the production promoting effect of laminin 332 is not expressed. Moreover, the production promotion of laminin 332 in skin is disclosed, and there is no description or suggestion of a technique for suppressing the production of proteins other than laminin 332.
- Patent Document 4 uses a specific whitening agent different from D-Ser as an essential component, and neither D-Ser itself has a description or suggestion that it has a whitening effect.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a whitening agent capable of sufficiently suppressing the production of melanin production-related proteins and exhibiting a sufficient whitening effect.
- the inventors of the present invention have made extensive studies to achieve the above object. As a result, it was found that there is a correlation between the skin condition (for example, melanin index) of the subject and a specific D-amino acid contained in the stratum corneum. Based on such findings, the inventors have considered that specific D-amino acids can suppress the production of melanin production-related proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and melanocortin 1 receptor, and reached the present invention. That is, the present invention is as follows.
- At least one of at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Gln, D-His, and D-Trp, and D-amino acid that is D-Tyr and / or D-Lys The whitening agent according to the above [1] or [2], wherein [4]
- the active ingredient is at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Ser, and D-Tyr, or D-His and D-Gln,
- Tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and melanocortin 1 receptor comprising at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Asn, D-Phe, D-Trp, and D-His as an active ingredient
- a production inhibitor of at least one melanin production-related protein selected from the group consisting of: [6] A skin cosmetic or an external preparation for skin containing the whitening agent according to any one of [1] to [4] above or the production inhibitor of melanin production-related protein according to [5] above.
- the above further comprising at least one base selected from the group consisting of polyol compounds, surfactants, higher alcohols, thickeners, UV absorbers, UV scattering agents, chelating agents, preservatives, and silicones.
- the skin cosmetic or external preparation for skin [8] The skin cosmetic or external preparation for skin according to [6] or [7] above, wherein the dosage form is an emulsion, cream, lotion, or gel.
- the D-amino acid may be D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Pro, D-Ser.
- the subject is a woman in their 20s or 30s, and the D-amino acid is from D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Pro, D-Trp, and D-Tyr.
- the evaluation method according to [13] above which is at least one selected from the group consisting of: [15]
- the subject is a woman in their 40s or 50s, and the D-amino acid is D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His
- the evaluation method according to [13] above which is at least one selected from the group consisting of D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Ser, D-Trp, and D-Tyr.
- [17] Selected by the evaluation method according to [16], which is included in the stratum corneum of the skin pigmentation site of the subject before and after the administration of the skin cosmetic, the external preparation for skin, or the active ingredient candidate substances thereof Measuring the amount of D-amino acid constituting the correlation; and A method for evaluating a skin cosmetic or an external preparation for skin, comprising identifying and comparing the appearance of skin before and after administration based on the correlation from the amount of D-amino acid.
- amino acids are prefixed with a conventional three-letter code (for example, “Asn”, “Gln”) with a configuration such as “L-”, “D-”, “D, L-”. May be expressed.
- the whitening agent of the present invention has a sufficient whitening effect.
- FIG. 1 is a graph showing the correlation between the amount of D-Pro in the stratum corneum and the skin melanin index in women in their 20s or 30s.
- FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the correlation between the amount of D-His in the stratum corneum and the skin melanin index in women in their 40s or 50s.
- FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the correlation between the amount of D-Lys in the stratum corneum and the L * value of skin in women in their 20s or 30s.
- FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the correlation between the amount of D-Tyr in the stratum corneum and the skin L * value in women in their 40s or 50s.
- FIG. 1 is a graph showing the correlation between the amount of D-Pro in the stratum corneum and the skin melanin index in women in their 20s or 30s.
- FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the correlation between the amount of D-His in the stratum corneum and the skin melanin index in women in
- FIG. 5 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase) of D-Asn (Example 2) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 6 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase-related protein 1) of D-Asn (Example 2) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 7 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (melanocortin 1 receptor) of D-Asn (Example 1) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 8 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase) of D-Phe (Example 3) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 9 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase-related protein 1) of D-Phe (Example 3) (relative value to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 10 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase-related protein 1) of D-Trp (Example 4) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 11 is a graph showing cell viability when D-Asn, D-Phe and D-Trp are added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 12 is a graph showing the black melanin production rate when D-Asp is added in B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 13 is a graph showing the black melanin production rate when D-Glu is added in B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 14 is a graph showing the black melanin production rate when D-Cys is added in B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 15 is a graph showing the black melanin production rate when D-Trp is added in B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 16 is a graph showing the cell viability of B16 melanoma cells upon addition of D-Asp.
- FIG. 17 is a graph showing the cell viability when D-Glu is added to B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 18 is a graph showing the cell survival rate when D-Cys is added in B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 19 is a graph showing the cell viability when D-Trp is added in B16 melanoma cells.
- FIG. 20 is a graph showing the rate of melanin production when D-Cys is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 21 is a graph showing the rate of melanin production when D-Asp is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 22 is a graph showing the rate of melanin production when D-His is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 23 is a graph showing the rate of melanin production when D-Phe is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 24 is a graph showing the rate of melanin production when D-Trp is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 25 is a graph showing the relative ratio of the amount of protein when D-Cys is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 26 is a graph showing the relative ratio of the amount of protein when D-Asp is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 27 is a graph showing the relative ratio of the amount of protein when D-His is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 28 is a graph showing the relative ratio of the amount of protein when D-Phe is added in normal human pigment cells.
- FIG. 29 is a graph showing the relative ratio of the amount of protein when D-Trp is added in normal human pigment cells.
- the whitening agent of the present invention includes D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Pro, D-Ser, D -At least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of -Trp, D-Tyr, D-Asp, D-Glu, and D-Cys is used as an active ingredient.
- the active ingredients are D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Ser, D-Trp, and D-Tyr.
- D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Cys may have low stability (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2009-227660).
- D-Asp and D-Glu may need to be adjusted to a higher pH in order to improve solubility.
- the present inventors have found that there is a correlation between the content of D-amino acid contained in a very small amount in the living body and the melanin index and L * value of the skin. Then, using the D-amino acid found as a correlation, the gene expression level of a protein related to melanin production was examined. As a result, a gene gene expression level significantly decreased was found.
- D-amino acids which are contained only in trace amounts in the living body, are proteins related to skin melanin index and L * value.
- the novel finding that it strongly suppresses the production of and acts as an active ingredient was found.
- the whitening agent of the present invention utilizes the remarkable effect possessed by D-amino acids that are contained in a very small amount in the living body based on such novel findings.
- “whitening” means to suppress the occurrence of excessive melanin in the skin, and to improve spots, freckles and dullness.
- D-form and L-form exist as optical isomers.
- natural proteins are composed of peptide bonds of L-amino acids.
- limonene is known to have optical isomers having different physiological activities.
- D-amino acids are currently at the research stage, and no systematic understanding has been made.
- D-amino acids may be their salts.
- the salt may be any pharmaceutically acceptable salt.
- alkali metal salts such as potassium salt and sodium salt
- alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt, barium salt and magnesium salt
- ammonium salts such as ammonium salt and tricyclohexylammonium salt
- monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt examples thereof include alkanolamine salts such as ethanolamine salt, monoisopropyl alcoholamine salt, diisopropyl alcoholamine salt, and triisopropyl alcoholamine salt.
- the method for producing D-amino acid is not particularly limited.
- a synthesis method, an extraction method, an enzyme method, and a fermentation method can be mentioned.
- a method of optically resolving a racemic mixture of D, L-amino acids is also included.
- the optical resolution is not particularly limited, and may be performed by a conventionally known method (for example, a diastereomeric salt is prepared using an optical resolution agent such as camphorsulfonic acid, and is resolved using a difference in solubility).
- the whitening agent of the present invention may contain a whitening component other than the above-mentioned D-amino acid, if necessary, to form a whitening agent composition.
- the whitening agent of the present invention is at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Gln, D-His, D-Pro, and D-Trp, and D-Tyr and / or D-Lys.
- the active ingredient is at least one of D-amino acids, and at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Gln, D-His, and D-Trp, and D- More preferably, the active ingredient is at least one of D-amino acids which are Tyr and / or D-Lys. These D-amino acids were found to correlate with at least one of the melanin index and L * value of young women in the evaluation method of the present invention described later.
- the whitening agent of the present invention comprises at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Ser, and D-Tyr as an active ingredient, or D-His, At least one of at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Gln, D-Trp, D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, and D-Lys, as an active ingredient It is also preferable that These D-amino acids were found to correlate with at least one of the melanin index and L * value of elderly women in the evaluation method of the present invention described later.
- the efficacy of the whitening agent of the present invention is described in, for example, Journal of Japanese Cosmetic Society, Vol. 30, no. 4, pp. It can be judged by the method described in the quasi-drug whitening function evaluation test guideline for obtaining a new effect described in 333-337 (2006). More specifically, a method for confirming that pigmentation is suppressed in visual or photographic pigmentation evaluation, or confirming that the melanin index calculated from the spectrocolorimeter measurement value is lowered or that the L * value is increased. It can be judged by the method. Among them, a method of lowering the melanin index calculated from the measured value of the spectrocolorimeter or increasing the L * value is preferable.
- the melanin production-related protein production inhibitor of the present invention is at least one selected from the group consisting of D-Asn, D-Phe, D-Trp, D-Asp, D-Glu, D-Cys and D-His As an active ingredient.
- the active ingredient is preferably at least one D-amino acid selected from the group consisting of D-Asn, D-Phe, D-Trp, and D-His.
- the melanin production-related protein is at least one selected from the group consisting of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and melanocortin 1 receptor.
- the production of at least one melanin production-related protein selected from the group consisting of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and melanocortin 1 receptor is suppressed, so that spots, freckles, and dullness can be improved or suppressed.
- the D-amino acid may be a salt thereof, as described above for the whitening agent.
- the protein whose production is suppressed by the production inhibitor of melanin production-related protein of the present invention is at least one selected from the group consisting of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and melanocortin 1 receptor.
- Tyrosinase is a protein that is strongly associated with stains and catalyzes the initial reaction of melanin production.
- Tyrosinase-related protein 1 is a protein strongly related to blots, and catalyzes the next stage of tyrosinase in melanin production.
- the melanocortin 1 receptor is a protein strongly associated with staining and is an ⁇ -MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone) receptor.
- the production inhibitor of melanin production-related protein of the present invention is a melanin production-related protein other than D-Asn, D-Phe, D-Trp, D-Asp, D-Glu, D-Cys and D-His as necessary
- the production inhibitory composition of a melanin production related protein may be formed.
- the skin cosmetic and skin external preparation of the present invention contain the above-described whitening agent or production inhibitor of melanin production-related protein. What is necessary is just to adjust suitably content of said whitening agent or the production inhibitor of a melanin production related protein according to the kind of skin cosmetics and a skin external preparation.
- the lower limit of the preferable content when converted in terms of the total amount of D-amino acids is usually 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more. .
- the upper limit is usually 30% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less.
- the skin cosmetic and skin external preparation of the present invention are at least one selected from the group consisting of polyol compounds, surfactants, higher alcohols, thickeners, UV absorbers, UV scattering agents, chelating agents, preservatives, and silicones. It may further contain a seed base, and preferably contains it.
- polyol compound examples include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, butylethylpropane diol, polypropylene glycol copolymer, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and sorbitol. .
- at least one selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and sorbitol is preferable.
- surfactant examples include polyoxyethylene sorbitan oleate, higher fatty acid soap, alkyl sulfate ester salt, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate salt, alkyl ether phosphate ester salt, N-acyl amino acid salt, acyl N-methyl Anionic surfactants such as taurine salts; cationic surfactants such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride and dialkyldimethylammonium chloride; cocamidopropyl betaine, alkyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, alkylamidodimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, 2-alkyl-N-carboxyl -Amphoteric surfactants such as N-hydroxyimidazolinium betaine; glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, lecithin derivative (lysolecithin), polyoxyethylene type (poly Nonionic surfactants such as xy
- glycerin fatty acid ester polyglycerin fatty acid ester, lecithin derivative, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, and polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester are selected. At least one is preferred.
- Higher alcohol examples of the higher alcohol include cetanol, behenyl alcohol, and isohexadecyl alcohol. Among these, behenyl alcohol is preferable.
- Thickeners include, for example, polyacrylic acid, carrageenan, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyoxyethylene glycol distearate, acrylic acid polymer, cellulose natural polymer, ethanol, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, myristic Examples include potassium acid. Among these, at least one selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid polymers, xanthan gum, and cellulose natural polymers is preferable.
- UV absorber examples of the ultraviolet absorber include cinnamate derivatives such as butylmethoxybenzoylmethane, octyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, and ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazolidinepropionate. Of these, cinnamic acid derivatives are preferred.
- At least one of titanium oxide and zinc oxide is preferable.
- chelating agent examples include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (or a derivative thereof) such as etidronic acid and trisodium edetate. Of these, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid is preferred.
- Preservative As the preservative, at least one of paraben and phenoxyethanol is preferable.
- parabens include methyl paraben, propyl paraben, and butyl paraben.
- silicone examples include methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, silicon Examples include fluid, silicone rubber, and silicone oil.
- the skin cosmetic or external preparation for skin of the present invention may contain one or more other bases other than those described above.
- Other bases may be bases used for normal skin cosmetics or skin external preparations, such as oil bases, water-soluble bases, emulsifiers, stabilizers, pH adjusters, preservatives, etc.
- Functional ingredients bioactive ingredients
- fragrances such as triethylhexanoin, pigments, solvents, natural product extracts, and amino acids (derivatives) other than the above-mentioned D-amino acids.
- oily bases examples include vegetable oils such as castor oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cacao butter; waxes such as owl, liquid lanolin, waxes such as candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax; petrolatum, liquid paraffin , Higher hydrocarbons such as paraffin such as solid paraffin, squalane, olefin oligomer and plastibase; fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid and esters thereof; base wax such as white kerosene; natural polymer, water Examples thereof include polyisobutene.
- vegetable oils such as castor oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cacao butter
- waxes such as owl, liquid lanolin, waxes such as candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax
- petrolatum liquid paraffin , Higher hydro
- water-soluble base examples include polyvinyl alcohol, cellulose derivatives (for example, methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cationized cellulose), carboxyvinyl polymers, esters (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, stearyl stearate). Octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl oleate, 2-ethylhexanoic acid triglyceride).
- emulsifier examples include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, diglycerin monostearate, polysorbate 60. And myristoylmethyl- ⁇ -alanine (phytosteryl / decyltetradecyl).
- Examples of the stabilizer include spherical alkyl acrylate powder, dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite, ascorbic acid, sodium pyrosulfite, gellan gum, and pectin.
- Examples of the pH adjuster include phosphate buffer, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and triethanolamine.
- Examples of the preservative include ethyl paraoxybenzoate, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, sodium bisulfite, and phenoxyethanol.
- Examples of the solvent include an arginine aqueous solution and purified water.
- Examples of the dye include red 202, yellow 4, blue 1, bengara, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide.
- Other functional components include, for example, kojic acid, trioleyl phosphate, squalane, cetyl ethylhexanoate, tocopherol, mica, bis (N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid / N-lauroyl-sarcosine) dimer linoleyl, Tocopherol acetate, thiotaurine, honey, lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl, lauroyl lysine, talc, dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, bentonite, taurine, arbutin, panthenol, niacinamide, pyridoxine hydrochloride, retinol, carotene, riboflavin, Ubiquinone, sodium hyaluronate, water-soluble collagen, sodium chondroitin sulfate, lactobacilli, fermente
- Examples of the natural product extract include lavender extract, peppermint extract, sage extract, anise extract, rose extract, cypress water, rooibos extract, lavender extract, and clara extract.
- Examples of amino acids (derivatives) include L-leucine, L-isoleucine, L-valine, L-phenylalanine, L-tryptophan, L-aspartic acid, sodium L-glutamate, L-lysine (hydrochloride), L-arginine.
- L-threonine L-alanine, L-proline, L-serine, glycine, acetylglutamine, L-histidine, pyridoxylserine, carnosine, acetylmethionine, acetylcysteine, sodium polyaspartate, citrulline, ornithine, betaine, L -Tyrosine, L-asparagine, L-methionine.
- the content of the other base may be set as appropriate and is not particularly limited.
- the dosage form of the skin cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include liquids, lotions, ointments, creams, plasters, tape preparations, powders, lotions, and gels. Among these, emulsions, creams, lotions, and gels are mentioned, and any of these is preferable. *
- the use site of the skin cosmetic or external preparation of the present invention is not particularly limited, and is usually applied to the skin and mucous membrane. Among them, it is preferably used for the skin. Therefore, examples of usage forms of the skin cosmetic or external preparation for skin of the present invention include aqueous solutions, emulsions, powder dispersions, and emulsions (oil-in-water type, water-in-oil type, etc.). More specifically, liquids, oils, lotions, gels, sols, emulsions, suspensions, creams, ointments, patches, sticks and the like can be mentioned.
- Examples of so-called cosmetics include lotions such as lotions and beauty lotions; emulsions such as emollient emulsions, milky lotions, nourishing emulsions, and cleansing emulsions; creams such as emollient creams, massage creams, cleansing creams, and makeup creams; sprays;
- Examples include cosmetics for makeup such as packs, foundations, lipsticks, lipsticks, eye shadows, cheeks, funny, color powders, and cosmetics for skin cleaning such as facial cleansers, makeup removers, body shampoos, and soaps.
- they may be used as quasi-drugs, pharmaceuticals, and foods (including supplements and beverages).
- composition of the skin cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention as an emulsion or cream includes, for example, the agent of the present invention and a polyol group (at least selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol).
- a polyol group at least selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol.
- surfactant group at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and lecithin derivative), higher alcohol group (behenyl alcohol), and thickener group (acrylic acid)
- a polymer and xanthan gum At least one of a polymer and xanthan gum
- an ultraviolet absorber group cenamic acid derivative
- an ultraviolet scattering agent group at least one of titanium oxide and zinc oxide
- a chelating agent group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
- antiseptics Group of drugs small amount of paraben and phenoxyethanol And one also include structural containing, and silicone.
- composition of the skin cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention as a lotion is, for example, the agent of the present invention and a polyol group (at least one selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, and sorbitol).
- a polyol group at least one selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, and sorbitol.
- a surfactant group at least one selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, and polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester
- a sticky group at least one selected from the group consisting of acrylic polymer, xanthan gum, and cellulose natural polymer
- an ultraviolet absorber group cephalol
- a chelating agent group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
- Preservatives group paraben and phenoxy At least one) of ethanol, and a configuration that contains a silicone.
- the gel composition of the skin cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention includes, for example, the agent of the present invention, a polyol group (at least one selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, and polyethylene glycol), and an interface.
- a polyol group at least one selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, and polyethylene glycol
- Activator group at least one selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, and polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester
- thickener group At least one selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid-based polymers, xanthan gum, and cellulose-based natural polymers
- an ultraviolet absorber group cenamic acid derivative
- a chelating agent group ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
- preservative group Low in parabens and phenoxyethanol And one also include structural containing, and silicone.
- the whitening agent and the production inhibitor of melanin production-related protein of the present invention can exert excellent effects on the prevention, suppression, and treatment of stains, freckles, and dullness caused by aging, ultraviolet rays, inflammation, etc. through whitening action. it can.
- the evaluation method of the present invention is to confirm the appearance of the subject's skin by measuring at least one of the melanin index and L * value of the subject's skin, from the pigmentation site of the subject's skin Collecting the stratum corneum, identifying the amount of at least one D-amino acid contained in the stratum corneum, and comparing the relationship between the appearance of the skin and the amount of D-amino acid among the results of the subject.
- the evaluation method of the present invention is roughly classified into the following two embodiments.
- the relationship between the appearance of the skin and each component is compared between the results of the subject (preliminary subject) (comparison between a plurality of results of the same subject, It is also possible to compare between the results of subjects with different), and whether or not there is a correlation, and if a correlation is confirmed, the correlation between the appearance of the skin and the amount of D-amino acid Is selected as an index for evaluating the skin of the subject (which may be the same as or different from the preliminary subject).
- Another embodiment is obtained by identifying the amount of D-amino acid in the stratum corneum before and after administering a sample of skin cosmetics, topical skin preparations, and these candidate substances to a subject, and in light of the above correlation. This is an embodiment in which the evaluation of the sample or the effectiveness of the subject on the skin is evaluated by comparing the evaluation of the skin before and after administration.
- the subject may be either male or female. However, women are preferable because they are sensitive to whitening, and women in their twenties or thirties who begin to be interested in age-related spots or dullness, or often take care of age-related spots or dullness 40 More preferred are women in their teens or 50s.
- the appearance of the skin may be confirmed by at least one of the melanin index and the L * value.
- People with stains or dullness have decreased cell function, especially cell function (cell differentiation and proliferation) due to increased melanin production of melanocytes by external stimuli such as UV exposure, followed by excessive transport and accumulation of melanin to keratinocytes.
- the melanin amount in keratinocytes is likely to increase due to the decrease in function. Therefore, the melanin index is used as an index for evaluating the absence of spots and dullness, that is, whitening of the skin.
- the L * value is an index representing the lightness of the color, and is used as an index evaluated with a numerical value of 0 to 100. 0 indicates black and 100 indicates white diffused color. The higher the value, the better the whitening effect.
- the measurement of the melanin index and the L * value may be performed by a conventionally known method.
- a spectrocolorimeter CM-700d manufactured by Konica Minolta Co., Ltd.
- CM-SA skin analysis software
- the appearance of the skin may be evaluated based on the intensity of melanin that can be measured from the reflected light when the skin is irradiated with light having a wavelength of 660 nm or 880 nm, using Mexeter MX18 manufactured by Course + Khazaka.
- the measurement site part of the external appearance of skin is not specifically limited. However, from the viewpoint of evaluating stains, freckles, and dullness caused by excessive melanin production due to external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays, the site is preferably exposed to the outside in daily life. For example, cheeks and arms. There may be one measurement location or two or more measurement locations.
- the stratum corneum may be collected from a pigmentation site of the skin appearance by a conventionally known method such as a tape stripping method.
- the tape stripping method is a method of collecting a stratum corneum adhering to an adhesive surface by applying an adhesive tape to the skin and peeling off the adhesive tape.
- Examples of the method of collecting the stratum corneum include a method of collecting the stratum corneum attached to the adhesive tape when a commercially available adhesive tape is pressed against the measurement site and peeled off.
- Examples of commercially available adhesive tapes include Asahi Biomed's horny checker, Moritex's horny layer seal, PROMOTOOL's horny checker (disc type W, disc type G, PRO type), Integral's Corneofix, 3M's Examples thereof include transparent tape, 3M transparent double-sided tape, and Nichiban cello tape (registered trademark).
- the method for specifying the amount of D-amino acid is not particularly limited.
- a direct method a method of precolumn derivatization followed by separation by chromatography using a chiral stationary phase column
- an indirect method with a chiral derivatization reagent
- a method of separating by a chromatography using a reverse phase column after derivatization to a diastereomer includes, for example, a method in which precolumn fluorescence derivatization is performed with NBD-F, followed by separation with a chiral column and fluorescence detection.
- Indirect methods include, for example, a method of derivatizing with OPA and chiral thiol and separating with a reverse phase column and detecting fluorescence, and a method of derivatizing with DBD-PyNCS and separating with a reverse phase column and detecting with a mass spectrometer.
- a method of derivatizing with OPA and chiral thiol and separating with a reverse phase column and detecting fluorescence and a method of derivatizing with DBD-PyNCS and separating with a reverse phase column and detecting with a mass spectrometer.
- D-amino acids are D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Pro, D-Ser. , D-Trp, and D-Tyr, and preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of D-Tyr.
- the above-mentioned more preferable D-amino acid is a component having a correlation with at least one of the melanin index and L * value of the skin of women in their ages of 20s to 30s and 40s to 50s However, it can be confirmed from the evaluation method of the present invention.
- One embodiment of the method for evaluating skin with D-amino acids of the present invention provides new knowledge about the correlation between specific D-amino acids and the appearance of the skin. Therefore, the evaluation method of the present invention can be applied to the development of skin cosmetics such as whitening agents derived from natural products, or skin external preparations.
- the D-amino acid is selected from the group consisting of D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Pro, D-Trp, and D-Tyr. It is preferable that it is at least one kind.
- the D-amino acid is D-Asn, D-Val, D-Allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu. , D-Phe, D-Ser, D-Trp, and D-Tyr, and preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of:
- the method for specifying the amount of D-amino acid is not particularly limited.
- mass spectrometry using liquid chromatography (LC) or gas chromatography (GC), enzyme method using quantitative enzyme, and bioassay method can be mentioned.
- LC liquid chromatography
- GC gas chromatography
- enzyme method using quantitative enzyme enzyme used by quantitative enzyme
- bioassay method bioassay method
- a liquid chromatograph-tandem mass spectrometer is preferable because it can simultaneously specify the D-amino acid and measure the content thereof.
- the amount of D-amino acid is preferably the content of D-amino acid per amount of protein contained in the stratum corneum. Thereby, the experimental error derived from the stratum corneum sampling method can be reduced.
- the method for measuring the protein amount is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a measurement method using a spectrophotometer such as an ultraviolet absorption method, a BCA method, a Bradford method, a Raleigh method, and a burette method, and a measurement method by electrophoresis. . Among these, the BCA method is preferable.
- a relationship between at least one of the melanin index and L * value of skin and the amount of D-amino acid is obtained from a plurality of subjects, By comparison, D-amino acids that correlate with skin appearance can be identified.
- the skin appearance can be evaluated based on the D-amino acid content. Therefore, by comparing the content of D-amino acid with a correlation between before and after the administration of a sample such as skin cosmetic or topical skin preparation for the same subject, the sample to the subject was compared. The effectiveness can be confirmed. Therefore, it can be used as a method for confirming whether or not the subject is a skin cosmetic or an external preparation suitable for the subject.
- the melanin index is decreased or the L * value is increased before and after the skin cosmetic or topical skin preparation is administered, as in the conventional measurement method.
- CM-700d manufactured by Konica Minolta
- CM-SA skin analysis software
- the collected stratum corneum was subjected to ultrasonic treatment twice using a 95% aqueous methyl alcohol solution to extract water-soluble components.
- An internal standard solution (containing plural kinds of D, L-amino acid stable isotopes such as D-Arg) was added to the extract.
- the obtained aqueous methyl alcohol solution was dried with a centrifugal evaporator to prepare a sample for D-amino acid analysis.
- Micro BCA method was performed using Micro BCA Protein Assay Reagent (Thermo Fisher Scientific). The same amount of sample solution and MicroBCA solution were added, and the mixture was heated and shaken (1100 rpm) at 50 ° C. for 1 hour. The protein was quantified by measuring the absorbance (562 nm) with a spectroscope.
- Table 3 shows D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, D-Lys, D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Pro, The correlation between the content of D-Ser, D-Trp, and D-Tyr in the stratum corneum, and the skin melanin index and L * value is shown. An absolute value of the correlation coefficient of 0.3 or higher was evaluated as “A” as “medium correlation”, and 0.2 or higher was evaluated as “B” as “weak correlation”.
- D-amino acid content of D-Gln, D-His, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Pro, D-Ser, D-Trp, and D-Tyr in the stratum corneum was correlated with the skin melanin index with at least one of younger and older women.
- D-amino acid corners of D-Gln, D-Leu, D-Phe, D-Ser, D-Trp, D-Tyr, D-Asn, D-Val, D-allo-Thr, and D-Lys The content in the layer was correlated with the L * value of the skin with at least one of young women and elderly women.
- FIGS. 1 and 2 Plots comparing the melanin index and the content of D-amino acid are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, and plots comparing the L * value and the content of D-amino acid are shown in FIGS. 1 to 4, the amino acid content is a value obtained by dividing the amino acid content obtained by the above-mentioned “D-amino acid quantitative analysis” by the protein amount obtained by the “protein quantitative analysis”.
- Examples 1 to 4 of whitening agents (Gene expression test for D-amino acid “whitening” using normal human epidermal pigment cells) Normal human epidermal pigment cells (Life Technologies) were cultured in Medium 254 (Life Technologies) (containing HMGS custom growth additive set (Kurabo)) at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2 and saturated steam. The cells in a confluent state were seeded in a 6-well plate at a seeding density of 3.0 ⁇ 10 5 (cells / well).
- the gene expression level of at least one of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4.
- Table 4 TYR indicates tyrosinase, TRP1 indicates tyrosinase-related protein 1, and MC1R indicates melanocortin 1 receptor.
- FIG. 5 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase) of D-Asn (Example 2) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 6 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase-related protein 1) of D-Asn (Example 2) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 7 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (melanocortin 1 receptor) of D-Asn (Example 1) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 5 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase) of D-Asn (Example 2) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 6 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin
- FIG. 8 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase) of D-Phe (Example 3) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 9 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase-related protein 1) of D-Phe (Example 3) (relative value to the amount of control amplification).
- FIG. 10 is a graph showing the amount of amplification of melanin production-related protein gene (tyrosinase-related protein 1) of D-Trp (Example 4) (relative to the amount of control amplification).
- D-amino acid suppresses the production of melanin production-related protein and is useful as an active ingredient for whitening agents.
- Example 5 (Cytotoxicity test: neutral red method) Normal human epidermal pigment cells were seeded in a 6-well plate, and the following day, a sample prepared by adjusting D-amino acid (500 ⁇ M) in a cell culture medium was added. After 24 hours, the evaluation sample solution was removed from the plate and each well was rinsed with 2 ml of cell culture medium. A medium containing NR (neutral red (Kurabo)) was added dropwise at 2 ml / well and allowed to stand for 2 hours at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2 and saturated steam.
- NR neutral red
- the medium (with neutral red) was discarded, and a washing fixative (2 wt% calcium chloride solution and 2 wt% formalin solution mixed in equal amounts) was added at 2 ml / well, and allowed to stand for 1 minute, and then the wash fixative was removed.
- 2 ml / well of NR extract (50% by volume ethyl alcohol, 1% by volume acetic acid) was added and shaken for 15 minutes with a plate shaker. Incorporation of NR into living cells was examined by measuring the absorbance at 540 nm of the NR extract with a microplate reader (manufactured by Thermo Fisher Scientific).
- the absorbance of the NR extract of each sample-added cell at a predetermined concentration is set to a relative percentage, whereby the cells of each sample Toxicity was calculated.
- the evaluation results are shown in FIG.
- FIG. 11 shows that at a concentration of 500 ⁇ M, each D-amino acid component is not cytotoxic. Therefore, it has been found that D-amino acids can reduce the gene expression levels of various melanin production-related proteins at concentrations that are not cytotoxic.
- Example 6 Black melanin production inhibition test 1
- DMEM Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium
- Confluent cells were detached with trypsin and seeded in a 96-well plate.
- each evaluation sample control (no sample added), D-amino acid (D-Asp, D-Glu, D-Cys, or D-Trp)
- D-Asp, D-Glu, D-Cys, or D-Trp D-amino acid
- the medium was replaced with DMEM (high glucose, containing 10% serum, no phenol red) supplemented with 5 mM), and cultured for 3 days.
- the 96-well plate was shaken for 5 minutes with a plate shaker, and the absorbance at 450 nm was measured with a microplate reader (Multiskan FC, manufactured by Thermo Fisher Scientific).
- the measured value (absorbance) of the control (no sample added) is defined as 100%, and the amount of black melanin in the control is set to 100% by making the absorbance 3 days after the addition of each sample's predetermined concentration.
- the black melanin production rate of each sample was calculated. The results are shown in FIGS.
- Example 7 (Cytotoxicity test (neutral red method)) After measuring the absorbance in Example 6, the evaluation sample solution was removed from the plate, and each well was rinsed with 200 ⁇ l of DMEM (high glucose, containing 10% serum). A medium containing NR (neutral red) (0.5%) was added dropwise at 200 ⁇ l / well, and allowed to stand for 2 hours at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2 and saturated steam. The medium was discarded, and a washing and fixing solution (2 wt% calcium chloride solution and 2 wt% formalin solution were mixed in equal amounts) was added at 200 ⁇ l / well, allowed to stand for 1 min, and then the washing and fixing solution was removed.
- DMEM high glucose, containing 10% serum
- NR extract (acetic acid ethanol) 200 ⁇ l / well was added and shaken with a plate shaker for 15 min. Incorporation of NR into living cells was examined by measuring the absorbance at 540 nm of the NR extract with a microplate reader (Multiskan FC, manufactured by Thermo Fisher Scientific). When the measured value (absorbance) of the control (no sample) NR extract is defined as 100%, the cell viability of each sample is obtained by setting the absorbance of the NR extract of each sample-added cell at a predetermined concentration to be a relative%. The rate was calculated. The results are shown in FIGS.
- FIGS. 16 to 19 show that the cytotoxicity of each sample is low at an evaluation concentration of 1 mM or 5 mM.
- the result of Example 6 and 7 has shown that each sample shows melanin production inhibitory activity and its cytotoxicity is low.
- Example 8 (Tyrosinase activity inhibition test) Normal human pigment cells were cultured in a medium in which Medium 254 (manufactured by Thermo Fisher Scientific) was added with a HMGS custom-made growth additive set (manufactured by Kurashiki Boseki Co., Ltd.). Confluent cells were detached with trypsin and seeded in 6-well plates. The next day, after the cells adhered to the plate, the medium was replaced with a medium obtained by removing phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) from the above-mentioned medium.
- PMA phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate
- each evaluation sample (control (no sample added), D-amino acid) was replaced with a medium excluding PMA added at a predetermined concentration (1 mM or 5 mM), and cultured for 3 days.
- the medium was removed and rinsed with 1/15 diluted PBS.
- the remaining lysate was centrifuged (9100 g, 4 ° C., 5 min), and 40 ⁇ l of the supernatant was added to a 96-well plate.
- L-DOPA solution (2 mg / ml, PBS diluted to 1/15) was added to the 96-well plate at 100 ⁇ l / well, and the absorbance at 490 nm was measured every 1 min while heating at 37 ° C.
- the 96-well plate was periodically stirred by a plate reader. From the measured absorbance, the maximum melanin production rate (change in absorbance per unit time) is calculated, and the maximum melanin production rate of the control (no sample) is defined as 100%.
- the melanin production rate of each D-amino acid was calculated by setting the maximum melanin production rate to relative%. The results are shown in FIGS.
- Example 9 Provided below (Protein quantification) MilliQ water (80 ⁇ l) was added to the cell lysate (20 ⁇ l) dispensed in the tyrosinase activity inhibition test of Example 8 to make 100 ⁇ l.
- the amount of protein in this solution was quantified using a DC protein assay (Bio-Rad). The measurement was performed by mixing 100 ⁇ l of sample solution and 100 ⁇ l of solution A and 800 ⁇ l of solution B. When the protein amount of the control (no sample) was defined as 100%, the relative% of the protein amount with each D-amino acid addition at a predetermined concentration was calculated. The results are shown in FIGS.
- each sample was 95% or more.
- the results of Examples 8 and 9 indicate that each sample has a tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect and has low cytotoxicity.
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Abstract
Description
すなわち、本発明は、以下のとおりである。
〔1〕D-アスパラギン、D-バリン、D-アロスレオニン、D-リシン、D-グルタミン、D-ヒスチジン、D-ロイシン、D-フェニルアラニン、、D-セリン、D-トリプトファン、及びD-チロシン(以下、本明細書中、それぞれ「D-Asn」、「D-Val」、「D-allo-Thr」、「D-Lys」、「D-Gln」、「D-His」、「D-Leu」、「D-Phe」、「D-Ser」、「D-Trp」、及び「D-Tyr」と略記する)からなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とする美白剤。
〔2〕分光測色計測定値より算出したメラニンインデックスを下げる又はL*値を上げる上記〔1〕に記載の美白剤。
〔3〕D-Gln、D-His、及びD-Trpからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸、並びにD-Tyr及び/又はD-LysであるD-アミノ酸、の少なくともいずれかを有効成分とする上記〔1〕又は〔2〕に記載の美白剤。
〔4〕D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Ser、及びD-Tyrからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とするか、或いはD-Hisと、D-Gln、D-Trp、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo―Thr、及びD-Lysからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸と、の少なくともいずれかを有効成分とする上記〔1〕又は〔2〕に記載の美白剤。
〔5〕D-Asn、D-Phe、D-Trp、及びD-Hisからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とする、チロシナーゼ、チロシナーゼ関連タンパク質1、及びメラノコルチン1レセプターからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤。
〔6〕上記〔1〕~〔4〕のいずれかに記載の美白剤、又は上記〔5〕に記載のメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤を含む皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤。
〔7〕ポリオール化合物、界面活性剤、高級アルコール、増粘剤、紫外線吸収剤、紫外線散乱剤、キレート剤、防腐剤及びシリコーンからなる群より選択される少なくとも1種の基剤を更に含む上記〔6〕に記載の皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤。
〔8〕剤形が、乳液、クリーム、化粧水、又はジェルである上記〔6〕又は〔7〕に記載の皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤。
〔9〕被検者の肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値の少なくともいずれかを測定して前記被検者の肌の外観を確認すること、前記被検者の肌の色素沈着部位から角層を採取すること、前記角層に含まれる少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸量を特定すること、前記肌の外観と前記D-アミノ酸量との関係を、被検者の結果の間で比較すること、を含む、D-アミノ酸による肌の評価方法。
〔10〕前記D-アミノ酸量の特定が、前記角層に含まれるタンパク質量あたりのD-アミノ酸含有量の測定である上記〔9〕に記載の評価方法。
〔11〕前記D-アミノ酸の含有量の測定を、液体クロマトグラフ-タンデム型質量分析計により行う上記〔9〕又は〔10〕に記載の評価方法。
〔12〕前記タンパク質量の測定をBCA法により行う上記〔10〕又は〔11〕に記載の評価方法。
〔13〕前記D-アミノ酸が、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo-Thr、D-Lys、D-Gln、D-His、D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Pro、D-Ser、D-Trp、及びD-Tyrからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種を含む上記〔9〕~〔12〕のいずれかに記載の評価方法。
〔14〕前記被検者が、20代又は30代の女性であり、前記D-アミノ酸が、D-Lys、D-Gln、D-His、D-Pro、D-Trp、及びD-Tyrからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種である上記〔13〕に記載の評価方法。
〔15〕前記被検者が、40代又は50代の女性であり、前記D-アミノ酸が、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo-Thr、D-Lys、D-Gln、D-His、D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Ser、D-Trp、及びD-Tyrからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種である上記〔13〕に記載の評価方法。
〔16〕前記比較の結果、肌の外観とD-アミノ酸量との間に相関関係が確認された場合に、肌の外観とそのD-アミノ酸との相関関係を被検者の肌の評価の指標として選抜することを更に含む、〔9〕~〔15〕のいずれかに記載の評価方法。
〔17〕皮膚化粧料、皮膚外用剤、又はそれらの有効成分候補物質の投与前後の被検者の肌の色素沈着部位の角層に含まれる、〔16〕に記載の評価方法で選抜された相関関係を構成するD-アミノ酸量を測定すること、及び、
前記D-アミノ酸量から前記相関関係に基づき投与前後の肌の外観を特定し、比較すること
を含む、皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤の評価方法。
〔18〕皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤の投与前後の被検者の肌の色素沈着部位の角層に含まれる、〔16〕に記載の評価方法で選抜された相関関係を構成するD-アミノ酸量を測定すること、及び、
前記D-アミノ酸量から前記相関関係に基づき投与前後の肌の外観を特定し、比較すること
を含む、被検者への皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤の有効性の評価方法。
本明細書中、アミノ酸を、慣用の3文字表記(例えば、「Asn」、「Gln」)に「L-」、「D-」、「D,L-」等の立体配置の接頭詞を付けて表すことがある。
本発明の美白剤は、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo-Thr、D-Lys、D-Gln、D-His、D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Pro、D-Ser、D-Trp、D-Tyr、D-Asp、D-Glu、及びD-Cysからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とする。有効成分は、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo-Thr、D-Lys、D-Gln、D-His、D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Ser、D-Trp、及びD-Tyrからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸であることが好ましい。D-Cysは、L-Cysと同様に安定性が低い場合がある(特開2009-227660号公報)。また、D-Asp及びD-Gluは、溶解性を向上させるためにpHを高めに調整する必要が生じる場合がある。
本発明者らは、生体中にごく微量にしか含まれていないD-アミノ酸の含有量と肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値に相関関係があることを見出した。そして、相関関係を見出したD-アミノ酸を用いて、メラニン産生に関連するタンパク質の遺伝子発現量を検討したところ、タンパク質の遺伝子発現量に有意な減少がみられるものを見出した。
従って、従来、ラセミ体としてのアミノ酸そのものが有効成分とみなされていたアミノ酸のうち、生体中にごく微量にしか含まれていないD-アミノ酸が、肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値に関連するタンパク質の産生を強く抑制し、有効成分として作用するという新規な知見を見出した。本発明の美白剤は、このような新規な知見に基づき、生体中にごく微量にしか含まれていないD-アミノ酸が有する顕著な効果を利用するものである。
本明細書中、「美白」とは、肌の過剰なメラニンの発生を抑制し、しみ、そばかす、くすみを改善することを意味する。
本発明の美白剤は、必要に応じて上記のD-アミノ酸以外の美白成分を含有し、美白剤組成物を形成していてもよい。
本発明の美白剤は、D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Ser、及びD-Tyrからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とするか、或いはD-Hisと、D-Gln、D-Trp、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo-Thr、及びD-Lysからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸と、の少なくともいずれかを有効成分とするものであることも好ましい。これらのD-アミノ酸は後述する本発明の評価方法において、年配の女性のメラニンインデックス及びL*値の少なくともいずれかと相関が認められたものである。
本発明のメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤は、D-Asn、D-Phe、D-Trp、D-Asp、D-Glu、D-Cys及びD-Hisからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とする。有効成分は、D-Asn、D-Phe、D-Trp、及びD-Hisからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸であることが好ましい。メラニン産生関連タンパク質は、チロシナーゼ、チロシナーゼ関連タンパク質1、及びメラノコルチン1レセプターからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種である。そのため、チロシナーゼ、チロシナーゼ関連タンパク質1、及びメラノコルチン1レセプターからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生を抑制するので、しみ、そばかす、くすみを改善又は抑制することができる。上記D-アミノ酸は、それらの塩であってもよく、美白剤に関して上述したとおりである。
チロシナーゼは、しみに強く関連するタンパク質であり、メラニン産生の最初の反応を触媒する。
チロシナーゼ関連タンパク質1は、しみに強く関連するタンパク質であり、メラニン産生のなかで、チロシナーゼの次の段階を触媒する。
メラノコルチン1レセプターは、しみに強く関連するタンパク質であり、α-MSH(メラノサイト刺激ホルモン)受容体である。
本発明の皮膚化粧料及び皮膚外用剤は、上記の美白剤又はメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤を含む。上記の美白剤又はメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤の含有量は、皮膚化粧料及び皮膚外用剤の種類に応じて適宜調整すればよい。D-アミノ酸の合計量で換算した場合の好適な含有量の下限は、通常、0.01質量%以上であり、好ましくは0.1質量%以上であり、さらに好ましくは1質量%以上である。上限は、通常、30質量%以下であり、好ましくは10質量%以下である。
ポリオール化合物としては、例えば、エチレングリコール、ブチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、ブチルエチルプロパンジオール、ポリプロピレングリコール共重合体、プロピレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、グリセリン、ジグリセリン、ソルビトールが挙げられる。中でも、ブチレングリコール、グリセリン、ポリエチレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、及びソルビトールからなる群より選択される少なくとも1種であることが好ましい。
界面活性剤としては、例えば、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンオレイン酸エステル、高級脂肪酸石けん、アルキル硫酸エステル塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル硫酸塩、アルキルエーテルリン酸エステル塩、N-アシルアミノ酸塩、アシルN-メチルタウリン塩等のアニオン界面活性剤;塩化アルキルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ジアルキルジメチルアンモニウム等のカチオン界面活性剤;コカミドプロピルベタイン、アルキルジメチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、アルキルアミドジメチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、2-アルキル-N-カルボキシ-N-ヒドロキシイミダゾリニウムベタイン等の両性界面活性剤;グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、レシチン誘導体(リゾレシチン)、ポリオキシエチレン型(ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル等)、多価アルコールエステル型、エチレンオキシド・プロピレンオキシドブロック共重合体等の非イオン界面活性剤が挙げられる。中でも、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、レシチン誘導体、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、及びポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステルからなる群より選択される少なくとも1種が好ましい。
高級アルコールとしては、例えば、セタノール、ベヘニルアルコール、イソヘキサデシルアルコールが挙げられる。中でも、ベヘニルアルコールが好ましい。
増粘剤は、例えば、ポリアクリル酸、カラギーナン、キサンタンガム、カルボキシメチルセルロースナトリウム、カルボキシビニルポリマー、ポリオキシエチレングリコールジステアリン酸エステル、アクリル酸系ポリマー、セルロース系天然ポリマー、エタノール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ミリスチン酸カリウムが挙げられる。中でも、アクリル酸系ポリマー、キサンタンガム、及びセルロース系天然ポリマーからなる群より選択される少なくとも1種が好ましい。
紫外線吸収剤としては、例えば、ブチルメトキシベンゾイルメタン、パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸オクチル、パラメトキシ桂皮酸2-エチルヘキシル等の桂皮酸誘導体、ジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリジンプロピオン酸エチルヘキシルが挙げられる。中でも、桂皮酸誘導体が好ましい。
紫外線散乱剤としては、酸化チタン及び酸化亜鉛の少なくともいずれかが好ましい。
キレート剤としては、例えば、エチドロン酸、エデト酸三ナトリウム等のエチレンジアミン四酢酸(又はその誘導体)が挙げられる。中でも、エチレンジアミン四酢酸が好ましい。
防腐剤としては、パラベン及びフェノキシエタノールの少なくともいずれかが好ましい。パラベンとしては例えば、メチルパラベン、プロピルパラベン、ブチルパラベン等が挙げられる。
シリコーンとしては、例えば、メチルポリシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、シクロヘキサシロキサン、シクロペンタシロキサン、トリメチルシロキシケイ酸、ポリオキシエチレン・メチルポリシロキサン共重合体、シリコンフルイド、シリコーンゴム、シリコーン油が挙げられる。
pH調整剤としては、例えば、リン酸塩緩衝剤、水酸化ナトリウム、水酸化カリウム、トリエタノールアミンが挙げられる。
保存剤としては、例えば、パラオキシ安息香酸エチル、安息香酸ナトリウム、サリチル酸、ソルビン酸、亜硫酸水素ナトリウム、フェノキシエタノールが挙げられる。
溶剤としては、例えば、アルギニン水溶液、精製水が挙げられる。
色素としては、例えば、赤202、黄色4、青色1、ベンガラ、黄酸化鉄、黒酸化鉄が挙げられる。
天然物抽出物としては、例えば、ラベンダーエキス、ペパーミントエキス、セージエキス、アニスエキス、バラエキス、ヒノキ水、ルイボスエキス、ラベンダー抽出物、クララエキスが挙げられる。
アミノ酸(誘導体)としては、例えば、L-ロイシン、L-イソロイシン、L-バリン、L-フェニルアラニン、L-トリプトファン、L-アスパラギン酸、L-グルタミン酸ナトリウム、L-リシン(塩酸塩)、L-アルギニン、L-スレオニン、L-アラニン、L-プロリン、L-セリン、グリシン、アセチルグルタミン、L-ヒスチジン、ピリドキシルセリン、カルノシン、アセチルメチオニン、アセチルシステイン、ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウム、シトルリン、オルニチン、ベタイン、L-チロシン、L-アスパラギン、L-メチオニンが挙げられる。
上記の他の基剤の含有量は、適宣設定すればよく、特に限定されるものではない。
本発明の評価方法は、被検者の肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値の少なくともいずれかを測定して被検者の肌の外観を確認すること、前記被検者の肌の色素沈着部位から角層を採取すること、角層に含まれる少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸量を特定すること、前記肌の外観と前記D-アミノ酸量との関係を、被検者の結果の間で比較することを含む、D-アミノ酸による肌の評価方法である。
本発明の評価方法は、大別すると、次の2つの実施態様がある。一実施態様は、肌の外観と各成分との関係を、被検者(予備被検者)の結果の間で比較(同じ被検者の複数の結果の間での比較でもよいし、複数の異なる被検者の結果の間での比較でもよい)し、相関関係があるか否かを確認し、相関関係が確認された場合に、肌の外観とそのD-アミノ酸量との相関関係を被検者(予備被検者と同一でもよいし別でもよい)の肌の評価の指標として選抜する実施態様である。他の実施態様は、被検者に皮膚化粧料、皮膚外用剤、これらの候補物質等のサンプルを投与した前後の角質中のD-アミノ酸量を特定し、上記の相関関係に照らして得られた投与前後の肌の評価を比較して、サンプルの評価、又は、被検者の肌に対する有効性の評価を行う実施態様である。
しみ又はくすみのある人は、皮膚細胞の機能低下、中でも、紫外線暴露等の外部刺激によるメラノサイトのメラニン産生亢進、それに続くケラチノサイトへのメラニンの過剰輸送、蓄積を原因とする細胞機能(細胞分化増殖機能)の低下により、ケラチノサイトにおけるメラニン量が増加し易い。そのため、メラニンインデックスは、しみ及びくすみの無さ、すなわち肌の美白を評価する指標として用いられている。
L*値は、色の明度を表す指標であり、0~100の数値で評価される指標として用いられている。0は黒色、100は白の拡散色を示し、数値が高いほど美白効果に優れると言える。
測定箇所は、1か所であってもよく、2か所以上であってもよい。
角層の採取方法としては、例えば、測定部位に市販の粘着テープを押し付けてはがした際に、粘着テープに付着した角層を採取する方法が挙げられる。市販の粘着テープとしては、例えば、アサヒバイオメッド社製角質チェッカー、モリテックス社製角層シール、PROMOTOOL社製角質チェッカー(ディスクタイプW、ディスクタイプG、PROタイプ)、Integral社製Corneofix、3M社製透明テープ、3M社製透明両面テープ、ニチバン社製セロテープ(登録商標)が挙げられる。
直接法としては、例えば、NBD-Fでプレカラム蛍光誘導体化をした後、キラルカラムで分離して蛍光検出する方法が挙げられる。詳細には、“Comprehensive analysis of branched aliphatic D-amino acids in mammals using an integrated multi-loop two-dimensional column-switching high-performance liquid chromatographic system combining reversed-phase and enantioselective columns.” J Chromatogr A. 2007 Mar 2;1143(1-2):105-11. Hamase K, Morikawa A, Ohgusu T, Lindner W, Zaitsu K.を参照し得る。
間接法として、例えば、OPAとキラルチオールで誘導体化して逆相カラムで分離し、蛍光検出する方法、及びDBD-PyNCSで誘導体化して逆相カラムで分離して、質量分析計で検出する方法が挙げられる。詳細には、“High-performance liquid chromatography analysis of naturally occurring D-amino acids in sake.” J Chromatogr B Analyt Technol Biomed Life Sci. 2011 Nov 1;879(29):3259-67. Gogami Y, Okada K, Oikawa T.“Determination of DL-amino acids, derivatized with R(-)-4-(3-isothiocyanatopyrrolidin-1-yl)-7-(N,N-dimethylaminosulfonyl)-2,1,3-benz oxadiazole, in nail of diabetic patients by UPLC-ESI-TOF-MS” J. Chromatogr. B, 879, 3220-3228 (2011). J.Z. Min, S. Hatanaka, H.F. Yu, T. Higashi, S. Inagaki, T. Toyo’okaを参照し得る。
上記のより好ましいD-アミノ酸は、20代から30代、及び40代から50代の少なくともいずれかの年代の女性の肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値の少なくともいずれかと相関関係を有する成分であることが、本発明の評価方法から確認し得る。
本発明のD-アミノ酸による肌の評価方法の一実施態様により、特定のD-アミノ酸と肌の外観との相関について新たな知見がもたらされる。そのため本発明の評価方法は、天然物に由来する美白剤等の皮膚化粧料、又は皮膚外用剤の開発へ応用し得る。
上述した中でも、D-アミノ酸の特定と含有量の測定を同時に行うことができるので、液体クロマトグラフ-タンデム型質量分析計が好ましい。
タンパク質量の測定方法は、特に限定されず、例えば、紫外吸収法、BCA法、ブラッドフォード法、ローリー法、ビューレット法等の分光光度計を用いた測定方法、電気泳動による測定方法が挙げられる。中でも、BCA法が好ましい。
本発明のD-アミノ酸による肌の外観の評価方法の他の実施態様により、皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤を投与する前後で、従来の測定方法のようにメラニンインデックスの低下又はL*値の増加による短期的な評価のみならず、投与直後にはメラニンインデックスの低下又はL*値の増加が観測されなくても、D-アミノ酸の含有量により長期的にメラニンインデックスの低下又はL*値の増加を予想し、美白効果の可能性があるか否かを評価することができる。
被検者は洗顔した後、恒温恒湿室(湿度40%、室温20℃)にて20分間馴化した。
上記測定終了後、被検者の頬中央部に3cm×3cmにカットしたテープを貼付し、角層を採取した。1回目に採取した最表層の角層は分析には利用せず、2回目以降に採取した角層を分析に利用した。
被検者(全員女性、年齢構成:20-30代 31名、40-60代 40名:合計人数 71名)の肌状態(メラニンインデックス及びL*値)を測定した同じ部位の顔面頬部にテープ(3×3cm2)を貼り、テープストリッピング法により角層を採取した。採取した1層目の角層は分析には使用せず、分析は2あるいは3層目を利用した。採取したテープは、コニカルチューブ(50ml)に入れて密閉し、-80℃にて保存した。
濃縮乾固したサンプルに50μLの水を添加してボルテックスミキサーで撹拌して再溶解し、サンプル溶液とした。20μLのサンプル溶液に、濃度200mMのほう酸緩衝液(pH8.8)を10μL加えて撹拌した後、5mg/mLの(R)-N-(hydroxysuccinimidyl carbamate)-β-(3-pyridyl)-alanine methyl ester/アセトニトリル溶液を20μL加えて室温で10分間反応させた。反応溶液に0.1M塩酸水溶液を60μL添加して分析サンプルとした。分析にはLC/MS/MSを用い、以下の条件で分析した。
装置 :Nexera X2(島津製作所製)
ガードカラム :Waters ACQUITY BEH C18 VanGuard
(2.1×50mm、1.7μm)
カラム :Waters ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18
(2.1×100mm、1.7μm)
移動相A :10mM重炭酸アンモニウム水溶液(pH9.5)
移動相B :80%メタノール/水
流速 :0.5mL/min
カラム温度 :50℃
サンプル注入量:1μL
装置 :Triple Quad 6500(SCIEX)
イオン化法 :ESI、 Positiveモード
スキャンタイプ:SRM(Selected Reaction Monitoring)
水溶成分を抽出した後の上記テープをマイクロチューブに入れ、ヘキサンを用いて不溶画分を溶出した。テープを除去した後、不溶画分をヘキサンにて洗浄し、タンパク質定量分析用サンプルとした。
上記「D-アミノ酸抽出操作」にて利用したチューブ等に、NaOH(0.5mol/L)-SLS(0.05wt%)水溶液を加え、60分間、90℃で加熱した。これらの溶液に溶出されたタンパク質を定量した。
表3に、D-Asn、D-Val、D-allo-Thr、D-Lys、D-Gln、D-His、D-Leu、D-Phe、D-Pro、D-Ser、D-Trp、D-Tyrの角層中の含有量と肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値の相関を示す。相関係数の絶対値が0.3以上を「中程度の相関」として「A」と評価し、0.2以上を「弱い相関」として「B」と評価した。
(正常ヒト表皮色素細胞を用いた、D-アミノ酸の「美白」に関する遺伝子発現試験)
正常ヒト表皮色素細胞(ライフテクノロジーズ社)を、Medium 254(ライフテクノロジーズ社)(HMGS特注増殖添加剤セット含有(クラボウ社))にて37℃、5%CO2、飽和蒸気下で培養した。コンフルエント状態になった細胞を、6ウェルプレートに3.0×105(cells/ウェル)の播種密度で播種した。
(細胞毒性試験:ニュートラルレッド法)
正常ヒト表皮色素細胞を6ウェルプレートに播種し、翌日、D-アミノ酸(500μM)を、細胞の培養用培地にて調整したサンプルを添加した。24時間後、プレートから評価サンプル溶液を取り除き、各ウェルを2mlの細胞の培地を用いてリンスした。NR(ニュートラルレッド(クラボウ社))入り培地を2ml/wellで滴下し、2時間、37℃、5%CO2、飽和蒸気下で静置した。
(黒色メラニン産生抑制試験1)
B16メラノーマ細胞をDMEM(Dulbecco’s Modified Eagle Medium)(高グルコース、血清10%含有)にて培養した。コンフルエントになった細胞を、トリプシンにて剥がし、96ウェルプレートに播種した。翌日、細胞がプレートに接着後、各評価サンプル(コントロール(サンプル添加なし)、D-アミノ酸(D-Asp、D-Glu、D-Cys、D-Trpのいずれか))を所定評価濃度(1mMあるいは5mM)を添加したDMEM(高グルコース、血清10%含有、フェノールレッド不含)と培地交換し、3日間培養した。プレートシェーカーにて96ウェルプレートを5分間震とうし、450nmにおける吸光度をマイクロプレートリーダー(Multiskan FC、サーモフィッシャーサイエンティフィック社製)にて測定した。コントロール(サンプル添加なし)の測定値(吸光度)を100%と規定した場合の、各サンプル所定濃度添加3日後の吸光度を相対%にすることにより、コントロール中の黒色メラニン量を100%とした場合の、各サンプルの黒色メラニン産生率を算出した。結果を図12~15に示す。
(細胞毒性試験(ニュートラルレッド法))
実施例6にて吸光度を測定した後、プレートから評価サンプル溶液を取り除き、各ウェルを200μlのDMEM(高グルコース、血清10%含有)を用いてリンスした。NR(ニュートラルレッド)(0.5%)入り培地を200μl/wellで滴下し、2時間、37℃、5%CO2、飽和蒸気下で静置した。培地を捨て、洗浄固定液(2wt%塩化カルシウム溶液及び2wt%ホルマリン溶液を等量で混合)を200μl/well添加し、1min静置後、洗浄固定液を取り除いた。NR抽出液(酢酸酸性エタノール)200μl/wellを添加し、プレートシェイカーにて15min震とうした。生細胞へのNRの取り込みは、マイクロプレートリーダー(Multiskan FC、サーモフィッシャーサイエンティフィック社製)でNR抽出液の540nmの吸光度を測定することにより調べた。コントロール(サンプルなし)のNR抽出液の測定値(吸光度)を100%と規定した場合の、所定濃度の各サンプル添加細胞のNR抽出液の吸光度を相対%にすることにより、各サンプルの細胞生存率を算出した。結果を図16~19に示す。
(チロシナーゼ活性抑制試験)
正常ヒト色素細胞をMedium254(サーモフィッシャーサイエンティフィック社製)にHMGS特注増殖添加剤セット(倉敷紡績株式会社製)を添加した培地にて培養した。コンフルエントになった細胞を、トリプシンにて剥がし、6ウェルプレートに播種した。翌日、細胞がプレートに接着後、前述の培地からホルボール12-ミリスタート13-アセタート(PMA)を除いた培地で培地交換した。さらに48時間後、各評価サンプル(コントロール(サンプル添加なし)、D-アミノ酸)を所定濃度(1mMあるいは5mM)で添加したPMAを除いた培地と交換し、3日間培養した。培地を除き、1/15に希釈したPBSでリンスした。溶解液(1wt%Triton X-100、1/15に希釈したPBS)を200μl/well添加し、プレートシェイカーにて5min震とうした。ピペッティングにより細胞を溶解、撹拌した溶解液をマイクロチューブに回収し、20μlをタンパク質定量用に分注した。残りの溶解液を遠心分離(9100g、4℃、5min)し、上清40μlを96ウェルプレートに添加した。この96ウェルプレートにL-DOPA溶液(2mg/ml、1/15に希釈したPBS)を100μl/wellで添加し、37℃に加温しながら、1min毎に490nmの吸光度を測定した。測定中は定期的にプレートリーダーによって96ウェルプレートを撹拌した。測定した吸光度から最大メラニン産生速度(単位時間当たりの吸光度の変化)を算出し、コントロール(サンプルなし)の最大メラニン産生速度を100%と規定した場合の、所定濃度の各D-アミノ酸添加細胞の最大メラニン産生速度を相対%にすることにより、各D-アミノ酸のメラニン産生速度率を算出した。結果を図20~24に示す。
(タンパク質定量)
実施例8のチロシナーゼ活性抑制試験にて分注した細胞溶解液(20μl)にMilliQ水(80μl)を添加し、100μlとした。この溶液中のタンパク質量を、DCプロテインアッセイ(バイオ・ラッド社製)を使用して定量した。測定は、サンプル溶液100μlに対して、A液100μl、B液800μlを混和して行った。コントロール(サンプルなし)のタンパク質量を100%と規定した場合の、所定濃度の各D-アミノ酸添加でのタンパク質量の相対%を算出した。結果を図25~29に示す。
Claims (15)
- D-アスパラギン、D-バリン、D-アロスレオニン、D-リシン、D-グルタミン、D-ヒスチジン、D-ロイシン、D-フェニルアラニン、D-セリン、D-トリプトファン、及びD-チロシンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とする美白剤。
- 分光測色計測定値より算出したメラニンインデックスを下げる又はL*値を上げる請求項1に記載の美白剤。
- D-グルタミン、D-ヒスチジン、及びD-トリプトファンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸、並びに
D-チロシン及び/又はD-リシンであるD-アミノ酸、の少なくともいずれかを有効成分とする請求項1又は2に記載の美白剤。 - D-ロイシン、D-フェニルアラニン、D-セリン、及びD-チロシンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とするか、或いは
D-ヒスチジンと、D-グルタミン、D-トリプトファン、D-アスパラギン、D-バリン、D-アロスレオニン、及びD-リシンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸と、の少なくともいずれかを有効成分とする請求項1又は2に記載の美白剤。 - D-アスパラギン、D-フェニルアラニン、D-トリプトファン、及びD-ヒスチジンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸を有効成分とする、チロシナーゼ、チロシナーゼ関連タンパク質1、及びメラノコルチン1レセプターからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種のメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤。
- 請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載の美白剤、又は請求項5に記載のメラニン産生関連タンパク質の産生抑制剤を含む皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤。
- ポリオール化合物、界面活性剤、高級アルコール、増粘剤、紫外線吸収剤、紫外線散乱剤、キレート剤、防腐剤及びシリコーンからなる群より選択される少なくとも1種の基剤を更に含む請求項6に記載の皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤。
- 剤形が、乳液、クリーム、化粧水、又はジェルである請求項6又は7に記載の皮膚化粧料又は皮膚外用剤。
- 被検者の肌のメラニンインデックス及びL*値の少なくともいずれかを測定して前記被検者の肌の外観を確認すること、
前記被検者の肌の色素沈着部位から角層を採取すること、
前記角層に含まれる少なくとも1種のD-アミノ酸量を特定すること、
前記肌の外観と前記D-アミノ酸量との関係を、被検者の結果の間で比較すること
を含む、D-アミノ酸による肌の評価方法。 - 前記D-アミノ酸量の特定が、
前記角層に含まれるタンパク質量あたりのD-アミノ酸含有量の測定である請求項9に記載の評価方法。 - 前記D-アミノ酸の含有量の測定を、液体クロマトグラフ-タンデム型質量分析計により行う請求項9又は10に記載の評価方法。
- 前記タンパク質量の測定をBCA法により行う請求項10又は11に記載の評価方法。
- 前記D-アミノ酸が、D-アスパラギン、D-バリン、D-アロスレオニン、D-リシン、D-グルタミン、D-ヒスチジン、D-ロイシン、D-フェニルアラニン、D-プロリン、D-セリン、D-トリプトファン、及びD-チロシンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種を含む請求項9~12のいずれか1項に記載の評価方法。
- 前記被検者が、20代又は30代の女性であり、
前記D-アミノ酸が、D-リシン、D-グルタミン、D-ヒスチジン、D-プロリン、D-トリプトファン、及びD-チロシンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種である請求項13に記載の評価方法。 - 前記被検者が、40代又は50代の女性であり、
前記D-アミノ酸が、D-アスパラギン、D-バリン、D-アロスレオニン、D-リシン、D-グルタミン、D-ヒスチジン、D-ロイシン、D-フェニルアラニン、D-セリン、D-トリプトファン、及びD-チロシンからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種である請求項13に記載の評価方法。
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JP7467138B2 (ja) | 2020-01-30 | 2024-04-15 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 腸管バリア改善剤 |
WO2024143435A1 (ja) * | 2022-12-26 | 2024-07-04 | 味の素株式会社 | 肌状態改善用組成物 |
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