WO2018077991A1 - Méthode de protection des kératinocytes contre les effets nocifs de la pollution de l'air - Google Patents

Méthode de protection des kératinocytes contre les effets nocifs de la pollution de l'air Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018077991A1
WO2018077991A1 PCT/EP2017/077381 EP2017077381W WO2018077991A1 WO 2018077991 A1 WO2018077991 A1 WO 2018077991A1 EP 2017077381 W EP2017077381 W EP 2017077381W WO 2018077991 A1 WO2018077991 A1 WO 2018077991A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
cosmetic composition
edelweiss extract
range
ethanol
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2017/077381
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Dominik Imfeld
Rolf Schuetz
Eliane Ursula WANDELER
Original Assignee
Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dsm Ip Assets B.V. filed Critical Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
Publication of WO2018077991A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018077991A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P39/00—General protective or antinoxious agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/28—Asteraceae or Compositae (Aster or Sunflower family), e.g. chamomile, feverfew, yarrow or echinacea

Definitions

  • the present application relates to a method of protecting keratinocytes against the effects of air pollution caused by introduction of dust particles, fumes or smoke into the atmosphere such as in particular against the harmful effects of diesel and urban dust particular matter, said method including applying to the skin a cosmetic composition containing an effective amount of an edelweiss extract.
  • Air pollution can result from both human and natural actions. Natural events that pollute the air include forest fires, volcanic eruptions, wind erosion, pollen dispersal, evaporation of organic compounds and natural radioactivity. Pollution from natural occurrences is not very often. The majority of air pollution results from human activities, including: Emissions from industries and manufacturing activities and burning fossil fuels (such as e.g. emissions from automobile engines).
  • PM Particulate Matter
  • An individual in his daily environment in an urban area may thus be subjected to a whole range of factors attacking the skin and thus also the skin cells such as in particular the keratinocytes, by various airborne pollutants such as in particular by particulate material, e.g. diesel and urban dust particles which negatively affect cell survival of keratinocytes.
  • various airborne pollutants such as in particular by particulate material, e.g. diesel and urban dust particles which negatively affect cell survival of keratinocytes.
  • one object of the present invention relates to a method of protecting keratinocytes against the adverse effects of air pollution caused by introduction of dust particles, fumes or smoke into the atmosphere, in particular against the harmful effect of diesel and urban dust particular matter, said method including applying to the skin a cosmetic composition containing an effective amount of an edelweiss extract, and optionally appreciating the protective effect.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of an edelweiss extract to prepare a cosmetic composition for the protection of keratinocytes against the harmful effects of air pollution caused by introduction of dust particles, fumes or smoke into the atmosphere, in particular against the harmful effect of diesel and urban dust particular matter.
  • a further object of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an edelweiss extract for the protection of keratinocytes against the harmful effects of diesel and urban dust particular matter.
  • the edelweiss extract used for the present invention is derived from the aerial parts (flowers) of Leontopodium alpinum Cass.
  • Leontopodium alpinum Cass, (edelweiss) is one of the most famous plants in the European Alps and grows in high altitude.
  • such an extract is rich in phenolic acids, Leontopodic acid (a highly substituted hexaric acid derivative), which is well known to have powerful antioxidant properties. It is also rich in other phenolic acids (chlorogenic acid), flavonoids (luteolin-4'-0-glucoside, apigenin-7-O-glucoside, luteolin), and tannin.
  • the extract is as described in (WO2001/087256) and is commercialized under the brand name of ALPAFLOR ® EDELWEISS by DSM Nutritional Products.
  • the edelweiss extract is prepared as follows: Aerial parts of Leontopodium alpinum are dried, preferably under hot air flow, followed by milling. The dried plants are then extracted with an ethanol/water solution. The ethanol is then removed by vacuum distillation, and the concentrate is diluted with glycerin, or a glycerin/ethanol mixture.
  • an effective amount' refers to an amount necessary to obtain the physiological effect.
  • the physiological effect may be achieved by one application dose or by repeated applications.
  • the dosage administered may, of course, vary depending upon known factors, such as the physiological characteristics of the particular cosmetic composition comprising the edelweiss extract and its mode and route of administration; the age, the nature and extent of the symptoms; the kind of concurrent treatment; the frequency of treatment; and the effect desired and can be adjusted by a person skilled in the art.
  • the term 'protecting against the harmful effects' refers to an increased viability of the keratinocytes compared to keratinocytes which are not treated with the edelweiss extract.
  • the viability of the keratinocytes is increased by at least 3 %, more preferably by at least 5%, when compared to non-treated keratinocytes.
  • the present invention refers to a method according to the present invention wherein the viability of the keratinocytes is increased by at least 3%, preferably by at least 5%, when compared to non-treated keratinocytes.
  • the amount of the edelweiss extract in the cosmetic compositions is selected in the range of 0.00001 to 20 wt-%, preferably in the range of 0.0001 to 10 weight-%, more preferably in the range of 0.001 to 3 weight-%, such as in particular in the range of 0.01 to 1 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the topical cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of the cosmetic composition to be applied to the skin is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg/ cm 2 skin, such as preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg/ cm 2 skin and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg / cm 2 skin.
  • compositions which are used to treat, care for or improve the appearance of the skin and/or the scalp.
  • Particular advantageous cosmetic compositions are skin care preparations.
  • compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application, which is to be understood as the external application to keratinous substances, such as in particular the skin.
  • compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application, they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with keratinous substances, such as in particular the skin.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically, respectably pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.
  • 'cosmetically acceptable carrier' respectively 'pharmaceutically acceptable carrier' refers to a physiologically acceptable medium which is compatible with keratinous substances. Suitable carriers are well known in the art and are selected based on the end-use application.
  • the carriers of the present invention are suitable for application to skin (e.g., sunscreens, creams, milks, lotions, masks, serums, hydrodispersions, foundations, creams, creamgels, or gels etc.).
  • skin e.g., sunscreens, creams, milks, lotions, masks, serums, hydrodispersions, foundations, creams, creamgels, or gels etc.
  • Such carriers are well-known to one of ordinary skill in the art, and can include one or more compatible liquid or solid filler diluent, excipient, additive or vehicle which are suitable for application to skin.
  • the exact amount of carrier will depend upon the level of the edelweiss extract and any other optional ingredients that one of ordinary skill in the art would classify as distinct from the carrier (e.g., other active components).
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 75% to about 99.999%, more preferably from about 85% to about 99.99%, still more preferably from 90% to about 99%, and most preferably, from about 93% to about 98%, by weight of the cosmetic composition, of a carrier.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be formulated into a wide variety of product types, including creams, waxes, pastes, lotions, milks, mousses, gels, oils, tonics, and sprays.
  • the edelweiss extract is formulated into lotions, creams, gels, and tonics.
  • These product forms may be used for a number of applications, including, but not limited to, hand and body lotions, facial moisturizers, anti-ageing preparations, make-ups including foundations, and the like. Any additional components required to formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinely chosen by one skilled in the art.
  • cosmetic compositions of the present invention are formulated as an aerosol and applied to the skin as a spray-on product, a propellant is added to the cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods in the art such as e.g. by admixing the edelweiss extract according to the present with the cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may comprise further conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, water, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings/colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and/ or sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients usually formulated into such cosmetic compositions.
  • adjuvants and additives such as preservatives/antioxidants, fatty substances/oils, water, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic,
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise further cosmetically active ingredients conventionally used in cosmetic and/ or pharmaceutical compositions.
  • active ingredients encompass skin lightening agents; UV-filters, agents for the treatment of hyperpigmentation; agents for the prevention or reduction of inflammation; firming, moisturizing, soothing, and/ or energizing agents as well as agents to improve elasticity and skin barrier.
  • cosmetic excipients examples include cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives as well as active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry which are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are for example described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by Personal Care Product Council (http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/), accessible by the online INFO BASE (http://online.personalcarecouncil.org/jsp/Home.jsp), without being limited thereto.
  • the necessary amounts of further active ingredients as well as the excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives etc. can, based on the desired product form and application, easily be determined by the skilled person.
  • the additional ingredients can either be added to the oily phase, the aqueous phase or separately as deemed appropriate.
  • compositions useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may be in the form of a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, or alternatively in the form of an emulsion or micro emulsion (in particular of oil-in-water (0/W) or water-in-oil (W/0) type, silicone-in-water (Si/W) or water-in-silicone (W/Si) type, PIT-emulsion, multiple emulsion (e.g.
  • oil-in-water-in oil (0/W/O) or water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type
  • pickering emulsion hydrogel, alcoholic gel, lipogel, one- or multiphase solution or vesicular dispersion or other usual forms, which can also be applied by pens, as masks or as sprays.
  • the amount of the oily phase present in such cosmetic emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, such as in the range of 10 to 60 wt.-%, preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the preparation of such O/W emulsions is well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an O/W emulsion, then it contains advantageously at least one O/W- or Si/W-emulsifier selected from the list of, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid, polyglyceryl-3- methylglycosedistearate.
  • O/W- or Si/W-emulsifiers selected from the list of, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid, polyglyceryl-3- methylglycosedistearate.
  • emulsifiers are phosphate esters and the salts thereof such as cetyl phosphate (e.g. as Amphisol® A from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (e.g.
  • emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate and hydrated polyisobutene.
  • one or more synthetic polymers may be used as an emulsifier. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one O/W, respectively Si/W emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt. %, in particular in the range of 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, such as more in particular in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as most in particular in the range of 1 to 4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Particular suitable 0/W emulsifiers to be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention encompass phosphate ester emulsifiers such as advantageously 8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth-4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, deceth-4 phosphate, deceth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate.
  • phosphate ester emulsifiers such as advantageously 8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteare
  • a particular suitable O/W emulsifier to be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is potassium cetyl phosphate e.g. commercially available as Amphisol® K at DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.
  • O/W emulsifiers are non-ionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil e.g. known as (INCI Name) cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (chemical cosmetic composition: sorbitan ester and cetearyl ester of olive oil fatty acids) sold under the tradename OLIVEM 1000.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions with all the definitions and preferences given herein in the form of O/W emulsions comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier wherein the O/W emulsifier is potassium cetyl phosphate.
  • the amount of oily phase in such O/W emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of 10 to 60 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt.-%, such as in the range of 15 to 40 wt.-%.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in general have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 8 and most preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 7.5.
  • the pH can easily be adjusted as desired with suitable acids, such as e.g. citric acid, or bases, such as sodium hydroxide (e.g. as aqueous solution), triethanolamine (TEA Care), Tromethamine (Trizma Base) and Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000), according to standard methods in the art.
  • suitable acids such as e.g. citric acid
  • bases such as sodium hydroxide (e.g. as aqueous solution), triethanolamine (TEA Care), Tromethamine (Trizma Base) and Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000), according to standard methods in the art.
  • Standard Reference Material ® (SRM) 1649b ("Urban Particulate Matter") of the National Institute of Standards and Technology (Gaithersburg, MD, USA).
  • SRM1649b was resuspended in Dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO), vigorously shaken by vortex and then stirred for 1 hour. After centrifugation, the supernatant was added to cell culture (0.3 mg/ml final) which contained the Edelweiss extract (ALPAFLOR ® EDELWEISS from DSM nutritional Products Ltd.) in the concentration as indicated in table 1 below.
  • DMSO Dimethylsulfoxide
  • PrestoBlue is a resazurin-based solution that turns red and highly fluorescent by the reducing power of living cells. All assays were done in triplicate. The results are presented in the table below as cellular viability in percentage (%) versus control, i.e. medium only, which value was set to 100%. The results illustrate that the edelweiss extract effectively counteracts the negative effect of the urban particulate matter.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une méthode de protection des kératinocytes contre les effets de la pollution de l'air causée par l'introduction de particules de poussière, d'émanations ou de fumée dans l'atmosphère, notamment contre les effets nocifs de matières particulaires de poussières urbaines et de diesel, ladite méthode consistant à appliquer sur la peau une composition cosmétique contenant une quantité efficace d'un extrait d'edelweiss.
PCT/EP2017/077381 2016-10-27 2017-10-26 Méthode de protection des kératinocytes contre les effets nocifs de la pollution de l'air WO2018077991A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16196019 2016-10-27
EP16196019.0 2016-10-27

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2018077991A1 true WO2018077991A1 (fr) 2018-05-03

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113711012A (zh) * 2018-09-14 2021-11-26 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 免洗型化妆品组合物保护皮肤免受污染的功效的评估

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001288032A (ja) * 2000-04-07 2001-10-16 Kanebo Ltd 活性酸素消去剤及び老化防止皮膚化粧料
WO2001087256A1 (fr) 2000-05-16 2001-11-22 Pentapharm Ag Composition a activite cosmetique
EP2522330A1 (fr) * 2011-05-09 2012-11-14 DSM IP Assets B.V. Utilisation de resvératrol et extrait d'edelweiss
CN104666222A (zh) * 2014-12-29 2015-06-03 广州十长生化妆品有限公司 一种具有隔离污染、清除自由基、防尘不脱妆的修颜隔离霜及制备方法
WO2015082520A1 (fr) * 2013-12-03 2015-06-11 Galephar M/F Composition pour reduire les troubles de la senescence cutanee comprenant un rétinalaldéhyde et un extrait de leontopodium alpinum
EP3069763A1 (fr) * 2015-03-16 2016-09-21 The Boots Company PLC Compositions cosmétiques topiques contre les radicaux libres

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001288032A (ja) * 2000-04-07 2001-10-16 Kanebo Ltd 活性酸素消去剤及び老化防止皮膚化粧料
WO2001087256A1 (fr) 2000-05-16 2001-11-22 Pentapharm Ag Composition a activite cosmetique
EP2522330A1 (fr) * 2011-05-09 2012-11-14 DSM IP Assets B.V. Utilisation de resvératrol et extrait d'edelweiss
WO2015082520A1 (fr) * 2013-12-03 2015-06-11 Galephar M/F Composition pour reduire les troubles de la senescence cutanee comprenant un rétinalaldéhyde et un extrait de leontopodium alpinum
CN104666222A (zh) * 2014-12-29 2015-06-03 广州十长生化妆品有限公司 一种具有隔离污染、清除自由基、防尘不脱妆的修颜隔离霜及制备方法
EP3069763A1 (fr) * 2015-03-16 2016-09-21 The Boots Company PLC Compositions cosmétiques topiques contre les radicaux libres

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Title
"Whitening & Multieffect B.B Cream with Edelweiss", GNPD,, 1 December 2013 (2013-12-01), XP002740353 *
ASIA ANONYMOUS ET AL: "ALPAFLOR EDELWEISS", 1 January 2013 (2013-01-01), pages 1 - 2, XP055115585, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.innovadex.com/documents/1188142.pdf?bs=472&b=129346&st=1&sl=28571595&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbYWxwYWZsb3IgZWRlbHdlaXNzXQ==&k=alpaflor|edelweiss> [retrieved on 20140428] *
MARIE-SOPHIE MEISINGER-DSM: "Les Alpes, source de beauté et de confort pour la peau", EXPRESSION COSMÉTIQUE, vol. 28, July 2014 (2014-07-01) - August 2014 (2014-08-01), pages 116 - 121, XP002776780 *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113711012A (zh) * 2018-09-14 2021-11-26 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 免洗型化妆品组合物保护皮肤免受污染的功效的评估

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