WO2017175396A1 - レース編地 - Google Patents
レース編地 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2017175396A1 WO2017175396A1 PCT/JP2016/061621 JP2016061621W WO2017175396A1 WO 2017175396 A1 WO2017175396 A1 WO 2017175396A1 JP 2016061621 W JP2016061621 W JP 2016061621W WO 2017175396 A1 WO2017175396 A1 WO 2017175396A1
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- yarn
- knitted
- chain
- loop
- lace
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
- D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
- D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a knitted lace fabric that can be suitably used as a fabric or frill for women's underwear having elasticity.
- Typical conventional knitted lace fabrics are described in Patent Documents 1 and 2, for example.
- This lace knitted fabric is composed of a covering yarn in which a covering yarn is wound around a core yarn, a chain knitting yarn constituting a chain stitch structure, and an insertion yarn knitted in the course direction as a stretch yarn in the chain stitch structure.
- a technique has been proposed in which the contact portion is bonded by thermal fusion to prevent fraying at the cut portion.
- the chain knitting yarn and the insertion yarn are bonded to each other at the contact portion to prevent fraying, etc., but the adhesive strength against the tensile force in the wale direction perpendicular to the course direction is high. There is a problem that it is low and a sufficient fraying prevention effect cannot be obtained.
- an object of the present invention is to provide a knitted lace fabric having a good aesthetic appearance and a good texture.
- the present invention is a chain knitting yarn constituting a chain knitting structure in which a plurality of loop-shaped portions are continuous in the course direction and form a plurality of rows in the wale direction,
- a first insertion yarn having elastic properties that elastically expands and contracts, and is knitted into a chain stitch structure by inserting each loop-shaped portion of the chain stitch yarn in the course direction, and the elasticity in the course direction into the chain stitch structure
- a first insertion thread that provides A second insertion yarn having elasticity that elastically expands and contracts, each loop-shaped portion of the chain stitch yarn constituting one chain stitch structure, and the chain stitch adjacent to the one chain stitch structure in the wale direction
- a second insertion thread that is wound around each loop-shaped portion of the chain stitch yarn of the structure and imparts stretchability in the wale direction to each chain stitch structure,
- the first insertion yarn is bonded to the chain knitting yarn at a position in contact with each loop-shaped portion of the chain knitting yarn
- the second insertion yarn is a lace knitted fabric
- the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn of the present invention are composed of a core yarn made of a single fiber yarn made of a heat-meltable synthetic resin and a long fiber yarn made of a heat-meltable synthetic resin having a melting temperature higher than that of the core yarn. And a composite yarn having a covering yarn.
- the first insertion yarn of the present invention is a heat-meltable synthetic resin fiber yarn having a melting temperature higher than that of the core yarn of chain knitting yarn, and is an elastic yarn having a fineness of 40 denier or more and 420 denier or less. To do.
- the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn of the present invention are elastic yarns having a fineness of 10 denier or more and 280 denier or less.
- the first insertion yarn and the chain knitting yarn are bonded at the plurality of first contact portions, and the second insertion yarn and the chain knitting yarn are bonded at the plurality of second contact portions.
- High tensile strength can be obtained in any of the wale and wale directions, and fraying can be prevented regardless of the cutting direction of the knitted lace fabric. This prevents misalignment between the chain knitting yarn and the first insertion yarn and misalignment between the chain knitting yarn and the second insertion yarn, and prevents distortion of the lattice caused by these misalignment.
- the present invention by selecting the thickness of the first insertion thread, it is possible to obtain a pressure (fitness or power feeling) according to the intended use.
- the combination of the core yarn and the covering yarn, or the combination of the chain knitting yarn and the thickness of the second insertion yarn can improve the adhesion rate of each yarn and change the fabric feeling of the lace.
- FIG. 2 is a knitting structure diagram showing a knitted lace fabric 20 with yarns other than the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first and second insertion yarns 22 and 23 omitted. It is a front view which shows a part of chain stitch yarn 21 before knitting. 2 is a front view showing a part of a chain knitting yarn 21 knitting a knitted lace fabric 20.
- FIG. It is a flowchart which shows the manufacturing process of the lace fabric 20 of this embodiment.
- FIG. 1 is a knitting structure diagram showing a part of a knitted lace fabric 20 according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- FIG. 2 omits the yarn other than the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first and second insertion yarns 22 and 23.
- 2 is a knitting organization chart showing a knitted lace fabric 20. 1 and 2 schematically show a knitted structure for easy understanding, and the actual knitted structure of the lace knitted fabric 20 includes a first loop-shaped portion 24 and a second loop.
- the curved portion 25 has a small radius of curvature, and the yarns 21, 22, and 23 are in close proximity or in contact with each other.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 is hatched with a slanting left-down line
- the first insertion yarn 23 is hatched with a slanting line sloping down to the right.
- FIG. 2 shows the yarns 21 and 23 with the thickness omitted.
- the knitted fabric knitted by the respective yarns 21 to 23 is referred to as a precursor knitted fabric.
- the lace knitted fabric 20 is obtained by heating a precursor knitted fabric.
- a product manufactured using the knitted lace fabric 20 is referred to as a knitted lace product.
- the lace knitted fabric 20 of the present embodiment is a warp knitted fabric, a raschel knitted fabric, and a stretch knitted fabric having elasticity.
- the knitted lace fabric 20 is knitted by a yarn including a chain knitting yarn 21, a second insertion yarn 22, and a first insertion yarn 23, and a plurality of lattices are formed by these yarns 21 to 23, and each lattice has a respective structure. A plurality of enclosed through holes are formed.
- Such a lace fabric 20 is formed with a lace pattern depending on the lattice shape and arrangement. Further, the knitted lace fabric 20 has a pattern portion in which the amount of yarn arranged per unit area is dense, and a base portion in which the amount of yarn arranged per unit area is sparse, and these pattern portions and A pattern is formed depending on the shape and arrangement of the base portion.
- Such a knitted lace fabric 20 with a patterned pattern is used for producing a knitted lace product such as a female underwear.
- the knitted lace fabric 20 has a chain knitting yarn 21 that forms a chain knitted fabric 19 of a Russell knitting having a plurality of loop-shaped portions 24 and 25, and a stretchability that elastically expands and contracts.
- Each chain knitting yarn 21 is wound around each second loop-shaped portion 25 and a chain knitting yarn 21 forming a chain knitting structure 19 adjacent in the wale direction W, and each chain knitting structure 19 is stretchable in the wale direction W.
- a second insertion thread 22 for providing the same.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 may be referred to as a warp yarn or a ground knitting yarn.
- the first insertion thread 23 is also referred to as a stretch thread
- the second insertion thread 22 is also referred to as a weft thread.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are bonded to each other by using the plurality of first contact portions 50 by utilizing the heat fusion property of each other.
- the chain stitch yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are bonded to each other at almost all the first contact portions 50.
- the plurality of second contact portions 55 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are bonded to each other by utilizing mutual heat fusion properties. Almost all the second contact portions 55 of the chain stitch yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 are bonded.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 is chain-knitted, whereby a first loop-shaped portion 24 and a second loop-shaped portion 25 are formed.
- the first loop-shaped portion 24 and the second loop-shaped portion 25 are formed alternately in a plurality of stages in the course direction C.
- the first loop portion 24 may be referred to as a needle loop
- the second loop portion 25 may be referred to as a sinker loop.
- a wale is formed.
- a plurality of wales are formed side by side in the wale direction W and are connected to each other to form a chain stitch structure, in other words, a chain stitch structure.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 swings as appropriate, and the chain knitting adjacent to the wale direction W is connected to form a chain knitting structure having a fraying prevention function.
- a portion where the chain stitch yarn 21 swings is referred to as a run stop portion 42.
- Each first loop-shaped portion 24 is generally formed in a U shape, and is arranged substantially side by side in a predetermined course direction C and a wale direction W orthogonal to the course direction C. Further, each first loop-shaped portion 24 opens to the front stage C1 in the course direction which is one of the course directions C. The first loop-shaped portions 24 are aligned in the wale direction W to form a course, and the first loop-shaped portions 24 are aligned in the course direction C to form a wale.
- the second loop portion 25 connects the first loop portions 24 arranged in the course direction C.
- attention is paid to one second loop portion 25.
- One end of the second loop-shaped portion 25 to be noticed is connected to the end of the first loop-shaped portion 24 at the same stage as the second loop-shaped portion 25.
- the second loop-shaped portion 25 is inserted from the first loop-shaped portion 24 of the first stage C1 in the course direction of the second loop-shaped portion 25 from one side to the other side as it goes from the one end to the other end.
- the first loop portion 24, which is the same step as the second loop portion 25, is inserted from the other side to the one side and extends to the course direction rear stage C2, and the course direction rear stage C2 of the second loop portion 25 is extended. To the end of the first loop-shaped portion 24.
- each insertion yarn such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into the wale by being sandwiched between the first loop portion 24 and the second loop portion 25.
- the course direction C is the warp direction of the knitted fabric, and means the lace knitting direction.
- the wale direction W is a lateral direction of the knitted fabric and means a direction intersecting the lace knitting direction.
- a plurality of first loop-shaped portions 24 are arranged in the course direction C and the wale direction W.
- the plurality of first loop portions 24 arranged in the course direction C and the wale direction W are arranged substantially in contact with a predetermined virtual plane.
- each knitting yarn knitted into the chain stitch structure such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23 is arranged on one side with respect to the virtual plane.
- a direction in which the insertion threads 22 and 23 are arranged with respect to a virtual plane extending along the first loop-shaped portion 24 is referred to as a front direction Z1, and a direction in which the virtual plane is arranged with respect to the insertion threads 22 and 23. Is referred to as the back direction Z2.
- a direction away from the paper surface in the thickness direction Z perpendicular to the paper surface is a front direction Z1
- a direction away from the paper surface in a direction perpendicular to the paper surface is a back direction Z2.
- the first loop portion 24 is hidden by the knitting yarns such as the second insertion yarn 22 and the first insertion yarn 23. Therefore, the pattern in the front direction Z1 of the knitted knitted fabric 20 and the lace pattern formed on the knitted lace fabric 20 are clearer than the surface in the reverse direction Z2.
- the second loop-shaped portion 25 is inserted in the front direction Z1 through the first loop-shaped portion 24 of the first stage C1 in the course direction of the second loop-shaped portion 25, and the second loop-shaped portion 25 is the same in the course direction of the second loop-shaped portion 25.
- the first loop-shaped portion 24 is inserted in the back direction Z2 and is connected to the first loop-shaped portion 24 of the course direction rear stage C2.
- the second insertion yarn 22 is a yarn for forming a lace pattern in the chain stitch structure.
- the second insertion yarns 22 are knitted into the wales adjacent in the wale direction W, thereby connecting two wales adjacent in the wale direction W.
- the second insertion yarn 22 has a laterally swinging portion extending from one wale adjacent to the wale direction W to the other wale, and a second insertion yarn knitting portion knitted into the wale.
- a through hole is formed which is inserted in the thickness direction of the knitted fabric.
- the shape and arrangement of the through holes are adjusted.
- a lace pattern represented by the arrangement and shape of the through holes can be formed on the lace fabric 20.
- the through-hole surrounded by the horizontal swing portion and the wale may be filled with a pattern yarn described later to form a pattern.
- the second insertion thread 22 extends in a region in the front direction Z1 from the first loop-shaped portion 24.
- the second insertion thread 22 extends in the wale direction W through the first loop-shaped portion 24 and the second loop-shaped portion 25 that are set in advance.
- a plurality of second insertion yarns 22 are knitted into the chain stitch structure, and each second insertion yarn 22 is knitted side by side in the wale direction W. The position where each second insertion yarn 22 is knitted is appropriately selected according to the lace pattern formed on the knitted lace fabric 20.
- the first insertion yarn 23 is realized by a yarn having a melting point temperature equivalent to that of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22.
- a yarn that partially melts in a heating state in a heating process performed after knitting of the knitted lace fabric is used.
- the first insertion yarn 23 is used not only for imparting elongation to the knitted lace fabric 20 but also for preventing the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 from fraying.
- the first insertion yarn 23 is realized by a non-coated yarn, that is, a bare yarn not covered with a coated yarn, a so-called bear yarn, and is realized by a polyurethane elastic yarn having a melting temperature of about 200 ° C.
- the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted into the chain stitch structure in a state of being stretched with respect to the natural state. Since the polyurethane core yarn used for the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 has a lower melting point than the polyurethane yarn used for the first insertion yarn 23, they are melted and fused to the first insertion yarn 23. , Can prevent fraying.
- the first insertion thread 23 extends along the wale and is knitted into all the loop-shaped parts constituting the wale. Accordingly, in the chain knitting structure, the first insertion yarn 23 is provided in both the base portion where the amount of yarn per unit area is sparse and the pattern portion where the amount of yarn per unit area is denser than the base portion. Woven.
- the knitted lace fabric 20 has a plurality of first insertion yarns 23, and each first insertion yarn 23 is knitted for each wale. In this way, the first insertion yarn 23 is knitted over the entire region of the chain stitch structure.
- the first insertion thread 23 extends in the area in the front direction Z1 from the first loop-shaped part 24, and extends in the back direction Z2 from the second loop-shaped part 25.
- the first insertion thread 23 proceeds zigzag as it proceeds in the course direction C along the corresponding wale. For example, when the first insertion thread 23 passes between the first loop-shaped portion 24 of interest and the second loop-shaped portion 25 from the Wale direction one W1 to the other W2 direction W2, the first loop-shaped portion 24 of interest. Passing between the first loop-shaped portion 24 and the second loop-shaped portion 25 of the rear stage C2 in the course direction from the other wale direction W2 to the wale direction one W1.
- the course insertion of the first insertion thread 23 may be realized by a structure different from the above structure.
- the first insertion yarn 23 extends in the region in the front direction Z1 from the first loop-shaped portion 24 and extends in the region in the back direction Z2 of the lace knitted fabric 20 from the second insertion yarn 22. Accordingly, in the region where the first insertion thread 23 and the second insertion thread 22 are inserted between the same first loop-shaped portion 24 and the second loop-shaped portion 25, the first insertion thread 23 is the first loop-shaped portion 24. And the second insertion thread 22 are inserted. The second insertion thread 22 is inserted between the first insertion thread 23 and the second loop-shaped portion 25.
- the first insertion thread 23 and the second insertion thread 22 are inserted between the same first loop-shaped part 24 and second loop-shaped part 25, the first insertion thread 23 and the second insertion thread 23
- the insertion thread 22 crosses each other and passes through the first loop-shaped portion 24 and the second loop-shaped portion 25.
- the first insertion thread 23 has the same step in the course direction as the first loop portion 24 of interest from the side where the first loop portion 24 of interest continues to the second loop portion 25 of the preceding stage C1 in the course direction. Passes through the second loop-shaped portion 25.
- FIG. 3 is a front view showing a part of the chain knitting yarn 21 before knitting
- FIG. 4 is a front view showing a part of the chain knitting yarn 21 knitting the knitted lace fabric 20.
- the chain stitch yarn 21 is a yarn in which a covering yarn 31 is spirally wound around a core yarn 30 having elasticity.
- the core yarn 30 is a single fiber yarn (filament yarn) made of a thermoplastic synthetic resin, and is made of, for example, polyester polyurethane.
- the covering yarn 31 is a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of synthetic resin, and is made of, for example, polyamide (trade name: nylon).
- the chain knitting yarn 21 is covered with the covering yarn 31 so that the covering yarns 31 come into contact with each other and the core yarn 30 is not exposed as shown in FIG.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 is knitted in a stretched state as shown in FIG. 4 using the stretchability of the core yarn 30.
- a spiral gap is formed between the covering yarns 31, and the core yarn 30 is exposed from the gap.
- the second insertion yarn 22 is a core yarn made of a single fiber yarn made of a heat-melting synthetic resin, and a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of a synthetic resin.
- a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of a synthetic resin.
- polyamide (trade name: Nylon), rayon, polyester, etc.
- the first insertion yarn 23 is a yarn also called a spandex, is a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) made of a stretchable material, and is made of, for example, polyester polyurethane.
- the core yarn 30 of the chain stitch yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 are both made of polyester polyurethane, but are made of different types of polyester polyurethane, and the melting temperature of the first insertion yarn 23 (about 200 to The melting temperature of the core yarn 30 is lower than 250 ° C.
- the melting temperature of the core yarn 30 is about 140 to 190 ° C., which is lower than the melting temperatures of the covering yarn 31, the second insertion yarn 22, and the first insertion yarn 23, and has thermoplasticity.
- the chain stitch yarn 21 is a yarn including the core yarn 30 made of a material having a low melting temperature.
- the core yarn of the second insertion yarn 22 may have the same melting temperature as the core yarn 30 of the chain stitch yarn 21.
- FIG. 5 is a flowchart showing an example of the manufacturing process of the knitted lace fabric 20 of the present embodiment.
- step a0 selection of each yarn used for knitting the lace knitted fabric 20, determination of a pattern to be formed on the lace knitted fabric 20, and design of the knitted fabric for forming a desired knitted structure are completed.
- step a1 the production of the lace knitted fabric 20 is started.
- step a1 which is a knitted fabric knitting process
- a precursor knitted fabric which is a precursor of the lace knitted fabric 20 is knitted using a knitting machine which is a Russell knitting machine.
- the knitting machine braids each of the yarns 21, 22, 23 such as the first insertion yarn 23 and the second insertion yarn 22 into the chain knitting yarn 21 in accordance with the knitting order designed in step a0, and the lace shown in FIG.
- a precursor knitted fabric having the same knitted structure as that of the knitted fabric 20 is knitted.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 have stretchability.
- the knitting machine performs the knitting operation in a state where the stretchable yarn is stretched.
- the precursor knitted fabric is shrunk after knitting due to the restoring force of the yarn knitted in the stretched state, and when this stretchability is maintained up to the lace knitted fabric 20, the lace knitted fabric 20 has stretchable lace.
- step a2 which is a dyeing process
- the precursor knitted fabric knitted in step a1 is dyed.
- the process proceeds to step a3.
- step a3 the dyed precursor knitted fabric is heated to a temperature equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and lower than the melting temperature of the yarns 22, 23, 31 other than the core yarn 30.
- the precursor knitted fabric is stretched, and the chain knitting yarn 21 is heated in a stretched state as shown in FIG.
- the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is heated and melted in a partially exposed state.
- the core yarn of the second insertion yarn 22 may have the same melting temperature as the core yarn 30 of the chain stitch yarn 21.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 is bonded together.
- the chain knitting yarns 21 are bonded to each other at the second contact portion 55 where the exposed portions of the core yarn 30 are in contact with each other.
- Such contact portions 50 and 55 have a characteristic shape of the covering yarn, a shape in which the molten core yarn passes through the most central side of the bent portion, and is the place where the probability of adhesion is the highest.
- the core yarn 30 and the first insertion yarn 23 of the chain knitting yarn 21 are different in type, but are both made of polyester-based polyurethane, so that when the core yarn 30 is melted, it is easily heat-sealed and bonded.
- the covering yarn 31 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is made of polyamide and is difficult to adhere to the core yarn 30, but the set temperature and set time are adjusted so that most of the first contact portion 50 as described above is adhered. By doing so, the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 can be bonded at the first contact portion 50 with an adhesion rate of about 60 to 90% in the case of the molten core yarn and the stretchable polyurethane yarn. it can. Further, in the second contact portion 55 between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22, portions where the core yarn 30 is exposed are in contact with each other and are bonded with an adhesive rate of about 50 to 80%.
- the precursor knitted fabric is heated to adhere a part of the first contact portion 50 between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23, and at the same time, The parts are bonded to form a knitted lace fabric 20, and the process proceeds to step a4.
- step a4 the formed knitted lace fabric 20 is cut (if it is wide), the manufacturing operation of the lace knitted fabric 20 is completed in step a5.
- the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is melted, so that the stretchability is impaired.
- the first insertion yarn 23 is heated only to a temperature lower than the melting temperature. Sex can be maintained. Therefore, the lace fabric 20 has stretchability.
- the first insertion yarn 23 having stretchability is knitted into the chain stitch structure 19 so that the chain stitch structure is stretchable. It is possible to realize a knitted lace fabric. Further, a part of the first contact portion 50 between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 is adhered, and one of the second contact portions 55 between the chain knitting yarns 21 or between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22. The parts are bonded together. This prevents misalignment between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the first insertion yarn 23 and misalignment between the chain knitting yarns 21 or between the chain knitting yarn 21 and the second insertion yarn 22 and prevents distortion of the lattice. .
- the melt of the core yarn 30 does not come into contact with the skin, and the covering yarn 31 comes into contact with the skin. Since the covering yarn 31 is a collection of a plurality of single fibers, a soft and soft feel can be obtained and a good texture can be maintained.
- the texture means the touch
- the good texture means a touch having flexibility and a soft feeling.
- the heating condition in step a3 which is the heat setting process described above is set to a heating condition in which the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21 is melted and the characteristic change including brittleness of the yarn other than the core yarn 30 is prevented.
- the heating conditions in a heating process are set to the heating conditions heated to the temperature which can maintain the form of the core yarn 30 as a thread
- a heating temperature and a heating time are set.
- the minimum melting temperature at which the core yarn 30 melts is B1, and the time until softening when heated at the minimum melting temperature is D1.
- the minimum characteristic change temperature at which the characteristics of the yarns other than the core thread 30 change is B2, and the time until the characteristics change when heated at the minimum characteristic change temperature is D2.
- B3 assuming that the heating temperature in the heating step is B3 and the heating time is D3, B1 ⁇ B3 ⁇ B2 and D1 ⁇ D3 ⁇ D2 are set. Furthermore, by setting B3 to a value as close to B1 as possible and D3 to a value as close to D1 as possible, the form of the core yarn 30 can be easily maintained.
- a polyester thermoplastic polyurethane elastic yarn having a denier of 10 to 280 denier, preferably 10 to 70 denier, is used as the core yarn 30 of the chain stitch yarn 21. Further, heat treatment is performed at a heating temperature of 170 ° C. or higher and 195 ° C. or lower for a heating time of 30 seconds or longer and 90 seconds or shorter. As a result, the core yarn 30 can be melted and the remaining yarn can be prevented from changing its characteristics. Further, the fineness of the first insertion yarn 22 is selected, for example, from 40 deniers to 420 deniers.
- the core yarn of the second insertion yarn 21 may be the same as the core yarn 30 of the chain knitting yarn 21.
- the heating time is constant, if the heating temperature is less than 170 ° C., the adhesive force by the melted core yarn 30 is reduced.
- the heating temperature exceeds 195 ° C., it is difficult to maintain the shape of the core yarn 30 as a yarn, and the characteristics of the yarn other than the core yarn 30 may change.
- it can prevent that the problem mentioned above arises by making heating temperature into 170 degreeC or more and 195 degrees C or less as mentioned above.
- the core thread 30 becomes thinner, the bonded portion becomes closer to a point contact and becomes smaller and the texture becomes better. As the core thread 30 becomes thicker, the bonded portion becomes larger and the texture is damaged.
- the covering yarn 31 thick.
- the chain knitting yarn 21 becomes thick, and the translucency of the lace knitted fabric is impaired.
- the thinner the core yarn 30 is the lower the adhesive strength is, and the thicker the core yarn 30 is, the higher the adhesive strength is.
- the combination of the core yarn 30 and the covering yarn can create a feeling of fabric according to the application.
- the bursting strength can be improved by setting each yarn itself to be thick or a combination thereof.
- the core yarn 30 is a thin yarn of less than 10 denier, there is a problem that the strength is too small, and when it is a thick yarn of more than 140 denier, the texture is impaired.
- the core yarn 30 is preferably 10 denier or more and 50 denier or less.
- the knitted lace fabric 20 has an effect of preventing the yarn fraying from progressing. Therefore, for example, the knitted lace fabric 20 can be cut into an arbitrary shape so as to be called a motif cut and a free cut. Therefore, both the wale direction W and the course direction C have high stretchability and shape stability, and can be three-dimensionally molded by molding or the like.
- the knitted lace fabric 20 manufactured in this manner is molded at 180 ° C., for example, and cut into individual processed products in order to obtain a required three-dimensional shape such as women's underwear in the cutting step a4. Exit.
- the knitted lace fabric 20 of the present invention has the first and second contact portions 50 and 55 bonded as described above, and can prevent fraying of the yarn. Is possible. If the structure having no or less run stop portion 42 is used, the crossing of the chain knitting yarn 21 can be eliminated or reduced, the appearance can be improved, and the quality can be improved.
- the above-described embodiment is merely an example of the present invention, and the configuration can be changed.
- the material of the yarns 21 to 23 can be changed as appropriate.
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Abstract
Description
弾発的に伸縮する伸縮性を有する第1挿入糸であって、鎖編糸の各ループ状部分をコース方向に挿通して鎖編組織に編込まれ、鎖編組織にコース方向の伸縮性を与える第1挿入糸と、
弾発的に伸縮する伸縮性を有する第2挿入糸であって、1つの鎖編組織を構成する鎖編糸の各ループ状部分と、該1つの鎖編組織にウエール方向に隣接する鎖編組織の鎖編糸の各ループ状部分とに巻掛けられ、各鎖編組織にウエール方向の伸縮性を与える第2挿入糸と、を含み、
第1挿入糸は、鎖編糸の各ループ状部分と接触する位置で、該鎖編糸に接着され、
第2挿入糸は、鎖編糸の各ループ状部分と接触する位置で、該鎖編糸に接着されていることを特徴とするレース編地である。
20 レース編地
21 鎖編糸
22 第2挿入糸
23 第1挿入糸
24 第1ループ状部分
25 第2ループ状部分
30 芯糸
31 被覆糸
50 第1接触部
55 第2接触部
C コース方向
W ウエール方向
Claims (4)
- 複数のループ状部分がコース方向に連なり、ウエール方向に複数列を成す鎖編組織を構成する鎖編糸と、
弾発的に伸縮する伸縮性を有する第1挿入糸であって、鎖編糸の各ループ状部分をコース方向に挿通して鎖編組織に編込まれ、鎖編組織にコース方向の伸縮性を与える第1挿入糸と、
弾発的に伸縮する伸縮性を有する第2挿入糸であって、1つの鎖編組織を構成する鎖編糸の各ループ状部分と、該1つの鎖編組織にウエール方向に隣接する鎖編組織の鎖編糸の各ループ状部分とに巻掛けられ、各鎖編組織にウエール方向の伸縮性を与える第2挿入糸と、を含み、
第1挿入糸は、鎖編糸の各ループ状部分と接触する位置で、該鎖編糸に接着され、
第2挿入糸は、鎖編糸の各ループ状部分と接触する位置で、該鎖編糸に接着されていることを特徴とするレース編地。 - 鎖編糸および第2挿入糸は、熱溶融性合成樹脂製の単繊維糸から成る芯糸と、芯糸よりも溶融温度の高い熱溶融性合成樹脂製の長繊維糸から成る被覆糸と、を有する複合糸であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のレース編地。
- 第1挿入糸は、鎖編糸の芯糸よりも溶融温度が高い熱溶融性合成樹脂繊維糸から成り、繊度が40デニール以上、420デニール以下の弾性糸であることを特徴とする請求項2に記載のレース編地。
- 鎖編糸および第2挿入糸は、繊度が10デニール以上、280デニール以下の弾性糸であることを特徴とする請求項1~3のいずれか1つに記載のレース編地。
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KR1020167029154A KR101849683B1 (ko) | 2016-04-08 | 2016-04-08 | 레이스 편물지 |
JP2016534759A JP6488300B2 (ja) | 2016-04-08 | 2016-04-08 | レース編地 |
PCT/JP2016/061621 WO2017175396A1 (ja) | 2016-04-08 | 2016-04-08 | レース編地 |
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CN110644131A (zh) * | 2019-10-15 | 2020-01-03 | 桐乡市纳兰经编纺织有限公司 | 一种适用纬向裁剪的特种弹力经编面料及其制备方法 |
CN111424365A (zh) * | 2020-04-15 | 2020-07-17 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | 一种具有柔软手感且吸湿快干的功能性蕾丝织物 |
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JPWO2020031383A1 (ja) * | 2018-08-10 | 2021-08-02 | 株式会社クロダレース | レース編地 |
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TW201736657A (zh) | 2017-10-16 |
EP3246440A4 (en) | 2018-01-17 |
JPWO2017175396A1 (ja) | 2018-04-12 |
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