WO2015177837A1 - 織布および織布の製造方法 - Google Patents

織布および織布の製造方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015177837A1
WO2015177837A1 PCT/JP2014/063207 JP2014063207W WO2015177837A1 WO 2015177837 A1 WO2015177837 A1 WO 2015177837A1 JP 2014063207 W JP2014063207 W JP 2014063207W WO 2015177837 A1 WO2015177837 A1 WO 2015177837A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
pattern
predetermined
woven fabric
jumping
warp
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2014/063207
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English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
義之 宮前
和義 高津
学 中谷
Original Assignee
株式会社三宅デザイン事務所
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 株式会社三宅デザイン事務所 filed Critical 株式会社三宅デザイン事務所
Priority to JP2014553378A priority Critical patent/JP5727685B1/ja
Priority to EP14887712.9A priority patent/EP2998423B1/en
Priority to US14/782,299 priority patent/US20170067190A1/en
Priority to PCT/JP2014/063207 priority patent/WO2015177837A1/ja
Priority to CN201480008122.3A priority patent/CN105283592B/zh
Publication of WO2015177837A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015177837A1/ja

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the woven fabric.
  • some garments such as skirts, dresses, dresses, jackets and pants have decorations such as pleats.
  • decorations such as pleats.
  • Patent Documents 1 and 2 a method of weaving a cloth by interweaving a thread that easily forms pleats and a thread that is difficult to form pleats, and attaching the pleats using the woven cloth.
  • Patent Document 2 manufactures a fabric in which either warp or weft is a yarn suitable for pleating and the other is a yarn that is difficult to form pleating. Then, the fabric is folded along a predetermined crease and pleated, and then selected. Thereby, the boundary between the portion where the pleats are formed and the portion where the pleats are not formed is emphasized.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric and a method of manufacturing the woven fabric that can form decorations such as pleats.
  • the woven fabric according to one aspect of the present invention has a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of wefts intersecting with the plurality of warp yarns, and when a specific process is applied to some of the plurality of warp yarns
  • the shrinkable warp has a first jumping portion that jumps over a first predetermined number of adjacent wefts at least at one point in the length direction.
  • a plurality of first jumping portions are arranged in a predetermined first pattern.
  • some of the plurality of wefts are contraction-type wefts that contract more in the length direction than other wefts when a specific process is applied, and the contraction-type wefts are: At least one point in the length direction has a second jumping portion that jumps over a second predetermined number of adjacent warps, and a plurality of second jumping portions are arranged in a predetermined second pattern.
  • the first predetermined number is the number of other warp yarns in the ground woven texture that other warp yarns continuously. It is set to a value larger than the number of jumps.
  • the second predetermined number is set to a value larger than the number of other weft yarns that continuously jump over other warp yarns in the ground weave structure.
  • the first jumping portion is either a front side first jumping portion passing through the front side of the woven fabric or a back side first jumping portion passing through the back side of the woven fabric
  • the second jumping portion is a woven fabric. It is either a front side second jumping portion passing through the front side of the fabric or a back side second jumping portion passing through the back side of the woven fabric
  • the front side first jumping portion is a predetermined front side first included in a predetermined first pattern.
  • the back side first jump portion is arranged in a pattern
  • the back side first jump portion is arranged in a predetermined back side first pattern included in the predetermined first pattern
  • the front side second jump portion is a predetermined front side second included in the predetermined second pattern.
  • the back side second interlaced portion is arranged in a predetermined back side second pattern included in the predetermined second pattern.
  • the predetermined front side first pattern and the predetermined back side first pattern are set so that the front side first jump portion and the back side first jump portion are close to each other, and the predetermined front side second pattern and The predetermined back side second pattern is set so that the front side second jump portion and the back side second jump portion are close to each other.
  • the plurality of contraction-type warps are arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the plurality of other warps, and the plurality of contraction-type wefts are arranged in a predetermined first between the plurality of other wefts. It is arranged in 4 patterns.
  • the shrinkable warp when a specific treatment is applied, the shrinkable warp is contracted in the length direction more than the other warp to form a permanent first shrinkage portion, and the shrinkable weft is When the specific process is applied, the permanent second contraction portion is formed by contracting in the length direction larger than other wefts.
  • a plurality of first contraction portions are continuously arranged to form a first broken line portion along the weft direction, and a plurality of second contraction portions are continuously arranged to obtain a warp.
  • a second broken line portion is formed along the direction, and a plurality of first contracted portions and a plurality of second contracted portions are arranged in a predetermined direction, whereby a third bent line along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction is formed. Part is formed.
  • first contraction part and the second contraction part can be expanded and contracted according to an external force.
  • a first predetermined number of adjacent shrinkable warps that contract more than other warps when a specific treatment is applied are provided between a plurality of warps. Arranged in a predetermined first pattern so that at least one first jumping portion that jumps over the wefts is formed, and a plurality of wefts contract more than other wefts when a specific process is applied.
  • the shrinkable wefts are arranged in a predetermined second pattern such that at least one second jumping portion that jumps over a second predetermined number of adjacent warps is formed.
  • a woven fabric according to still another aspect of the present invention is formed of a first structure woven from a plurality of warps, a plurality of wefts intersecting with the plurality of warps, a plurality of contraction-type warps, and a plurality of contraction-type wefts.
  • a second structure that is overlapped by being woven into the first structure, and the shrink type warp, the first jumping portion that jumps over the first predetermined number of adjacent wefts is arranged in the first pattern
  • the second jumping portion that jumps over the second predetermined number of adjacent warps is arranged in the second pattern, and the shrinkable warp is larger than the warp when the specific processing is applied.
  • the first contraction portion is formed against the restoring force of the first structure, and the contraction type weft contracts in the length direction more than the weft when the specific treatment is applied.
  • the contraction type weft contracts in the length direction more than the weft when the specific treatment is applied.
  • the shrinkable warp is arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the plurality of warps, and the shrinkable weft is arranged in a predetermined fourth pattern between the plurality of wefts.
  • first jump portion and the second jump portion are formed so as to be located on at least one or both of the front side and the back side of the first structure.
  • the shrinkable warp when a specific treatment is applied to the woven fabric, the shrinkable warp is greatly shrunk, the side having the first jumping portion is shrunk into a valley, and the opposite side of the first jumping portion is jumped out to become a mountain.
  • the woven fabric is decorated.
  • a shrinkable weft having at least one second jumping portion is disposed, the woven fabric can be further decorated. Since the decoration of the woven fabric is built in the woven fabric itself, it is possible to form a decoration that is strong against wearing or washing.
  • 3 is an explanatory diagram showing, in association with each other, decoration patterns A to C formed on a woven fabric, information indicating whether warp or weft is provided with an interlaced portion, and the shape of the decoration obtained by the interlaced portion.
  • Explanatory drawing which matches and shows the shape of a decoration, and the arrangement
  • region A which forms a decoration in the diagonal direction.
  • region B which forms a decoration in the vertical direction.
  • region C which forms a decoration in a horizontal direction.
  • Explanatory drawing which shows schematic structure of a loom. The flowchart which shows the manufacturing method of a woven fabric.
  • Explanatory drawing which concerns on 2nd Example and shows the relationship between the shape of a decoration and the formation pattern which implement
  • Explanatory drawing which shows the example which concerns on 3rd Example and prepares the formation pattern of
  • a shrinkable warp that contracts in the length direction larger than other warps when a specific process is applied, a shrinkable warp that contracts in the length direction larger than other warps, and when a specific process is applied, from other wefts And a modified weft that contracts in the length direction.
  • the shrinkable warp and the shrinkable weft jump over a predetermined number of yarns in the other direction at least at one point in the length direction.
  • the jumping portion may be provided on either the front or back of the woven fabric. A plurality of jumping portions can be provided on the front and back sides, respectively.
  • a linear decoration such as a straight line or a curved line can be formed by continuing the contraction.
  • the contraction part keeps its shape permanently.
  • the permanent contraction part means that the contraction part does not disappear due to normal wearing or washing, so that the user can always recognize the contraction part.
  • the contraction part always keeps its shape against the restoring force of the ground woven structure, but it expands and contracts when a certain amount of external force is applied.
  • FIG. 1 is a front view of a garment 1 manufactured from a woven fabric according to this embodiment.
  • the garment 1 is one application example of the woven fabric 10 (see FIG. 2 and the like) according to the present embodiment, and includes, for example, a dress, a skirt, a jacket, pants, a shirt, an apron, gloves, and socks.
  • the woven fabric 10 according to the present embodiment can be applied to other than the garment 1 such as a bag, a furoshiki, a table cloth, a handkerchief, various covers, a tie, a ribbon, a wallet, a card holder, a cushion, an umbrella, and the like.
  • the garment 1 is manufactured, for example, by combining a front body 2, a back body 3, and a sleeve 4.
  • the front body 2, the back body 3, and the sleeve 4 may be formed separately and then sewn together.
  • the front body 2, the back body 3, and the sleeve 4 may be woven simultaneously, and finally the portion of the connection portion through which the human body passes is cut.
  • Cloth 1 is provided with a plurality of decorative portions 5A to 5F.
  • These decorative portions 5A to 5F are not physically provided on the garment 1 later, such as embroidery or paint, but are physical decorations provided on the woven fabric 10 that is the material of the garment 1 from the beginning.
  • a linear pattern or a pleat is taken as an example of the physical decoration that is prepared in the woven fabric 10 from the beginning.
  • the decoration part 5 is a linear pattern or pleats.
  • the linear pattern here is not a planar pattern such as a ground pattern, but a three-dimensional linear pattern obtained by deforming a part of the woven structure into a three-dimensional concave or convex shape.
  • positioning of the decoration part 5 shown to the clothing 1 are a mere illustration, and the range of this invention is not limited to the structure shown in FIG.
  • a decorative portion 5 ⁇ / b> A extending in the lateral direction is formed on the shoulder portion of the garment 1.
  • a corrugated decorative portion 5B is formed from the chest to the waist of the garment 1.
  • a lattice-shaped decorative portion 5 ⁇ / b> C is formed on the lower portion of the garment 1 from the waist.
  • an arcuate decorative portion 5D is formed at the bottom of the garment 1.
  • a circular decorative portion 5E and a linear decorative portion 5F are formed on both sleeves of the garment 1.
  • FIG. 2 is an example of the woven structure of the woven fabric 10 that is the material of the garment 1.
  • tissue only in the longitudinal direction of the woven fabric 10 is shown.
  • An example in which the stretch structure is also incorporated in the lateral direction of the woven fabric 10 will be described later with reference to FIGS.
  • the ground weave structure as an example of the “first structure” is formed by crossing a normal warp 11 and a normal weft 12 according to a predetermined rule.
  • the normal warp 11 and the normal weft 12 are manufactured from, for example, polyester.
  • the normal warp 11 is an example of “other warp” or “warp”
  • the normal weft 12 is an example of “other weft” or “weft”.
  • yarn is not limited to polyester. Other material yarns may be used.
  • the stretch structure as the “second structure” is superimposed on the woven structure of the ground.
  • the stretch structure is a woven structure formed from yarns that contract by a specific process. Therefore, the stretch structure is formed from either one or both of the shrinkable warp 21 and the shrinkable weft 22.
  • the stretch direction and formation method of the stretch tissue will be described later with reference to FIG.
  • the shrinkable warp 21 includes, for example, a core 211 and a covering thread 212 wound around the outer periphery of the core 211.
  • the shrinkable weft 22 is constituted by, for example, a core 221 and a covering thread 222 wound around the outer periphery of the core 221.
  • a material such as polyurethane that contracts greatly in the length direction when heated at a predetermined temperature is used.
  • the covering yarns 212 and 222 the same material as that of a normal yarn, such as polyester, is used.
  • this embodiment is not limited to the case where the materials of the normal yarns 11 and 12 and the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are matched, and the materials of both may be different. Furthermore, the material of the normal warp 11 and the normal weft 12 may be changed, the material of the core 211 of the contraction type warp 21 and the core 221 of the contraction type weft 22 may be changed, or the coating of the contraction type warp 21 The material of the covering yarn 222 of the working yarn 212 and the shrinkable weft 22 may be changed. Furthermore, the thread thickness and color can be changed for each thread 11, 12, 21, and 22.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 may be composed of a plurality of different materials as described above, or may be composed of a single material.
  • the contraction-type yarns 21 and 22 only have to have a property of contracting more than the yarn constituting the woven structure of the ground when “specific processing” such as heat treatment is applied. In other words, the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 do not shrink before the specific process is applied. Due to this property, the woven fabric 10 can be woven stably and accurately using both the normal yarns 11 and 12 and the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22.
  • the material and thickness of the yarn, the structure of the ground woven structure, etc. can be determined as appropriate.
  • the ground woven structure of the woven fabric 10 shown in FIG. 2 is a plain woven structure of normal warp 11 and normal weft 12. Part of the plurality of warps constituting the plain weave is a shrinkable warp 21.
  • the shrinkable warp 21 is used instead of the normal warp 11 for every sixth stitch. Thereby, the stretch structure formed from the shrinkable warp 21 is woven and overlapped with the ground structure.
  • the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over a predetermined number of wefts 12 at a predetermined position according to a first pattern determined from the design of the garment 1. Jumping over other intersecting threads is also called sliding the thread.
  • the portion where the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over the weft 12 is a jumping portion 21 ⁇ / b> J as a “first jumping portion”.
  • the number (first predetermined number) that the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over the weft 12 is set to a value larger than the number that the warp 11 jumps continuously over the weft 12 in the ground weave structure.
  • the number of jumps can be set as appropriate according to the size and strength of the decoration.
  • the first predetermined number can be set as a value that is several times the first reference number.
  • the jumping portion 21J includes a front side jumping portion 21J (1) passing through the front side of the woven fabric 10 and a back side jumping portion 21J (2) passing through the back side of the woven fabric 10.
  • One shrinkable warp 21 has at least one jump portion 21J.
  • one shrinkable warp 21 has at least one front side jump portion 21J (1) and one back side jump portion 21J (2) (actually a plurality of each).
  • the shrinkable warp 21 shrinks greatly in the length direction as shown by arrow F1.
  • the front side jumping portion 21J (1) contracts, the back side of the front side jumping portion 21J (1) protrudes.
  • a plurality of adjacent front-side jumping portions 21J (1) contracts to form a broken line like a groove running in the lateral direction.
  • the back side jumping portion 21J (2) contracts due to heating, the front side of the back side jumping portion 21J (2) protrudes.
  • a broken line such as a ridge line running in the lateral direction is formed.
  • a fold line such as a ridge line running in the lateral direction and a fold line such as a groove are formed on the woven fabric 10 in proximity to each other, so that the woven fabric 10 is three-dimensionally deformed to obtain a three-dimensional effect.
  • a number for identifying the yarn of the woven structure is attached.
  • the shrinkable warp 21 is used in the rows a and g. a2 to a6 and g2 to g6 are front side jumping portions 21J (1).
  • a broken line (a4, b4, c4, d4, e4, f4, g4, h4 connecting lines 4) ) Is formed.
  • A13 to a17 and g12 to g17 are back side jumping portions 21J (2).
  • a broken line (a line connecting a15, b15, c15, d15, e15, f15, g15, h15) with the weft 12 in the 15th row as the top is formed. It is formed.
  • FIG. 4 schematically shows changes when the shrinkable yarn is contracted.
  • Fig.4 (a) is sectional drawing which expands and shows the part in which the jump part 21J of the contraction type warp 21J was formed, and shows the state before performing heat processing.
  • the warp direction is the horizontal direction of the drawing.
  • the front side jumping part and the back side jumping part are not distinguished.
  • FIG. 4B shows a state after the heat treatment.
  • the jumping portion 21J contracts, the weft 12 near the center of the jumping portion 21J protrudes downward in the figure, and a shrinking portion 23 is formed.
  • FIG. 5 shows a state in which the front side jumping portion 21J (1) and the back side jumping portion 21J (2) are contracted. Since the jumping portion 21J (1) that becomes a valley and the jumping portion 21J (2) that becomes a mountain are arranged relatively close to each other, as shown in FIG. 5, the jumping portions 21J (1), 21J (2) ) Is greatly changed three-dimensionally. As a result, a stereoscopic effect beyond a simple pattern can be obtained.
  • FIG. 6 a method for forming the decorative portion 5 having a different direction on the woven fabric 10 will be described.
  • the formation patterns A, B, and C of the decorative portion 5 are shown.
  • the formation pattern A forms the decorative portion 5 in the oblique direction
  • the formation pattern B forms the decorative portion 5 in the vertical direction (Y direction)
  • the formation pattern C forms the decorative portion 5 in the horizontal direction (X direction). Indicates when to do.
  • FIG. 6 a table in which the layout of the jumping part is associated with the shape of the decorative part 5 obtained by contracting the jumping part is shown for each of the formation patterns A to C by direction. .
  • the formation pattern A in the oblique direction differs in the formation position of the interlaced portion depending on the angle, the formation pattern A is collectively shown as one formation pattern A because of the rotational symmetry.
  • a plurality of jumping portions are arranged in the longitudinal direction (warp direction) and the lateral direction (weft direction), respectively.
  • the angle of the decorative portion 5 (for example, the angle with respect to the warp yarn 11 or the weft yarn 12) can be changed.
  • a plurality of jumping portions 22J along the weft are arranged.
  • the jumping portions 22J that slide in the horizontal direction in the vertical direction the decorative portion 5 extending in the vertical direction can be obtained.
  • the decorative portion 5 When forming the decorative portion 5 in the horizontal direction, as shown in the formation pattern C, a plurality of jumping portions 21J along the warp direction are arranged. By arranging the interlaced portions 21J that slide in the vertical direction in the horizontal direction, the decorative portion 5 extending in the horizontal gazette can be obtained.
  • FIG. 6 the case where the formation patterns are associated with each other by passing through 8 regions by 45 degrees is described, but the angles of the regions are not necessarily equal.
  • various decorations can be formed only with the formation pattern A for corresponding to the formation of the decoration in the oblique direction, or various formation patterns can be prepared and variously prepared. A decoration can also be formed.
  • FIG. 7 shows a method of forming decorations of various shapes by combining a plurality of decoration portions 5 having different formation patterns.
  • a plurality of decoration portions 5 are formed with a horizontal formation pattern C on the upper and lower sides extending in the horizontal direction. Thereby, the decoration part which shapes an upper side and a lower side can be obtained.
  • a plurality of decorative portions 5 are formed with a vertical formation pattern B on the right and left sides extending in the vertical direction. Thereby, the decoration part which forms a right side and a left side can be obtained.
  • a plurality of decorative portions 5 are formed with a horizontal formation pattern C on the bottom extending in the horizontal direction.
  • a plurality of decorative portions 5 are formed with the formation pattern A in an oblique direction on the right side and the left side that are inclined toward the apex. Since the angle is different between the right side and the left side, the formation position of the jumping portion is different, but the description is omitted here.
  • the shape of the circle is imitated by appropriately arranging the formation patterns A to C.
  • a decorative portion of the horizontal formation pattern C is arranged on the upper and lower sides
  • a vertical formation pattern B is arranged on the left and right sides
  • a decorative portion of the formation pattern A in the oblique direction is arranged obliquely. Part can be obtained.
  • FIG. 8 shows the texture of the formation pattern A in the oblique direction.
  • FIG. 8A shows the woven structure 10A1 on the mountain side
  • FIG. 8B shows the woven structure 10A2 on the valley side.
  • FIG. 8A and FIG. 8B roughly correspond, they do not correspond exactly. The same applies to FIGS. 9 and 10.
  • a mountain indicates a shape that protrudes from the surrounding weave structure.
  • tissue 10A1 protrudes toward an observer is meant.
  • the valley indicates a shape that is recessed from the surrounding woven structure.
  • the concave shape which falls toward the other side (the direction opposite to the direction in which an observer exists) of a paper surface is meant.
  • the vertical jump portion 21J and the horizontal jump portion 22J are arranged in the woven structure 10A2 according to the angle (orientation) of the decorative portion. Is done. By combining the vertical jumping portion 21J and the horizontal jumping portion 22J, an oblique decorative portion is obtained.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are partially exposed in the woven structure 10A1 on the mountain side, but they are not the jumping portions 21J and 22J.
  • the jumping portions 21J and 22J are generated by jumping a predetermined number of yarns in different directions so as to shrink during the heat treatment.
  • the partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21, 22 do not jump over a predetermined number of yarns in different directions, and are held down by normal yarns 11, 12.
  • the yarn 21 intersects with the normal weft 12 (a2, a3, a5, a6), so that deformation when heated is suppressed. . Therefore, the shrinkable warp 21 passing through the row a does not have the jumping portion 21J as long as it is shown in FIG.
  • FIG. 9 shows the woven structure of the formation pattern B in the vertical direction.
  • Fig.9 (a) shows the woven structure 10B1 of the side used as a peak
  • FIG.9 (b) shows the woven structure 10B2 of the side used as a trough.
  • FIG. 9A shows the woven structure 10B1 on the mountain side, and as described in FIG. 8A, the jumping portion 22J is not provided.
  • the interlaced portion is formed on the side of the organization that becomes the valley.
  • the partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are crossed with the normal yarns 11 and 12, so that deformation when heated is suppressed.
  • the shrinkable warp 21 is continuously exposed by two wefts at a1 and a2 and a4 and a5, but the weft 12 passing through the third row and the weft passing through the sixth row Therefore, deformation at the time of heating is suppressed.
  • a plurality of lateral jumping portions 22J are arranged in the longitudinal direction in the weave structure 10B2 on the valley side. That is, in FIG. 9B, the jumping portion 22J including a1, b1, and c1, the jumping portion 22J including e1, f1, g1, and h1, and the jumping portion 22J including b4, c4, d4, e4, and f4 are illustrated. Is shown.
  • Each jumping portion 22J is formed by jumping five warps each.
  • the plurality of interlaced portions 22J shown in the first row are partially shown for convenience of illustration.
  • FIG. 10 shows the woven structure of the formation pattern C in the horizontal direction.
  • FIG. 10A shows the woven structure 10C1 on the mountain side
  • FIG. 10B shows the woven structure 10C2 on the valley side.
  • the row f is formed with a jumping portion 21J that jumps at least six wefts 12 and contraction-type wefts 22.
  • the woven fabric 10 can be greatly deformed by arranging the front side jumping portion and the back side jumping portion close to each other. Thereby, decoration like pleats can also be realized.
  • the woven fabric generation system that generates the woven fabric 10 includes, for example, a design data generation device 110, an automatic loom 120 connected to the design data generation device 110 via a communication network CN, and a heating device 130. Can do.
  • the design data generation device 110 is a computer that determines the configuration (woven structure) of the woven fabric 10 based on the design of the garment 1 and outputs it as design data.
  • the design data generation device 110 may be connected to the automatic loom 120 without going through the communication network CN.
  • the automatic loom 120 may be provided with a function for generating design data.
  • the automatic loom 120 includes, for example, a warp supply unit 121, a weft supply unit 122, a contraction type warp supply unit 123, a contraction type weft supply unit 124, and a loom control device 125.
  • the warp supply unit 121 supplies the warp 11.
  • the weft supply unit 122 supplies the weft 12.
  • the shrinkable warp supply unit 123 supplies the shrinkable warp 21.
  • the shrinkable weft supply unit 124 supplies the shrinkable weft 22.
  • the loom control device 125 controls the supply units 121 to 124.
  • the loom control device 125 controls each of the supply units 121 to 124 based on the data received via the communication network CN.
  • the data generated by the design data generation device 110 can be input to the loom control device 125 without going through the communication network CN.
  • data can be input to the loom control device 125 by storing the data in a storage medium such as a flash memory device and connecting the storage medium to the loom control device 125.
  • the heating device 130 is a device for applying heat treatment as an example of “specific processing” to the woven fabric 10.
  • the heating device 130 may be installed in the vicinity of the automatic loom 120 or may be installed at a location away from the automatic loom 120.
  • the decorative part 5 appears by heating the woven fabric physically containing the decorative structure through the heating device 130.
  • the woven fabric before the decoration part 5 appears can be put in the distribution as it is, it can be considered that the heating device 130 is not included in the woven fabric generation system.
  • the specific treatment is not limited to heat treatment.
  • contraction type such as cooling processing, pressurizing processing, decompression processing, processing to irradiate light or radio waves of a specific wavelength, processing to apply ultrasonic waves, processing to apply vibration, processing to exposure to a specific component gas or liquid, etc.
  • any processing may be used.
  • the heating method is not particularly limited. For example, you may heat with high temperature steam, infrared rays, warm air, etc.
  • the schematic operation of the woven fabric generation system will be described with reference to the flowchart of FIG.
  • the designer determines the design of the clothes 1 (S1). At this time, decorations such as pleats and linear patterns can also be determined.
  • the arrangement of the formation patterns A to C for realizing the determined decoration is calculated, and the other considerations such as the arrangement of the formation pattern and the ground pattern are calculated.
  • the woven structure is determined (S2).
  • the configuration of the woven structure can be automatically determined using the design data generation device 110.
  • Data indicating the determined structure of the woven tissue is sent from the design data generation device 110 to the loom control device 125 of the loom 120 via the communication network CN.
  • the loom control device 125 generates the woven fabric 10 by controlling the supply units 121 to 124 based on the received data (S3).
  • the woven fabric 10 has a normal warp yarn 11 and a normal weft yarn 12 and a first jump portion 21J formed in a predetermined first pattern, and a plurality of contractions arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the normal warp yarns 11. It is manufactured by weaving a mold warp 21 and a plurality of contraction-type wefts 22 formed in a predetermined fourth pattern between normal wefts 12 with a second jumping portion 22J formed in a predetermined second pattern. .
  • the predetermined first pattern defines the number of weft yarns jumped by the vertical jump portion 21J, the appearance position of the jump portion 21J, and the like.
  • the predetermined second pattern defines the number of warp yarns jumped by the horizontal jump portion 22J, the appearance position of the jump portion 22J, and the like.
  • the predetermined third pattern defines a position through which the shrinkable warp 21 is passed.
  • the predetermined fourth pattern defines the position through which the shrinkable weft 22 is passed.
  • Step S5 shows a state in which the woven fabric is woven, and is not exactly a manufacturing process. Therefore, step S5 is indicated by a two-dot chain line. Not only the decorative portion 5 is generated by the heat treatment, but also the decorative portions 5 such as pleats are related to each other, so that a three-dimensional feeling is created in the woven fabric 10.
  • a decorative portion that appears when heated is provided in the woven fabric 10. For this reason, it is possible to obtain a stable decoration that is strong against wearing or washing, as compared with the prior art in which a highly shrinkable thread is used and mechanically and thermally pleated afterwards with an iron or the like.
  • a larger deformation can be caused in the woven fabric 10 by arranging the woven structure as a mountain and the woven structure as a valley close to each other.
  • a desired three-dimensional decoration effect can be obtained.
  • the second embodiment will be described with reference to FIG.
  • the following embodiments including the present embodiment correspond to modifications of the first embodiment. Therefore, the difference from the first embodiment will be mainly described.
  • the decorative portions of various shapes are formed using only the formation pattern A that forms the decorative portions in the oblique direction described in FIGS. 6 and 8.
  • a woven structure for generating a decorative portion of the formation pattern A is arranged in a rectangular shape.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are arranged in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, respectively.
  • the decorative portion is formed in an oblique direction in accordance with the combined force of the force that contracts the shrinkable warp 21 and the force that contracts the shrinkable weft 22.
  • the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern A is continuously arranged in the ground woven structure as shown in FIG. 13, a decorative portion along the arrangement direction is formed.
  • the woven structure corresponding to a certain formation pattern A contracts so that a decorative portion is formed along the direction of another adjacent woven structure (woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern A).
  • the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern A will be referred to as a woven structure (A) here for convenience.
  • the respective woven structures (A) contract in both the vertical direction and the horizontal direction.
  • the shrinkable yarn 21 in the longitudinal direction is continuous and has a so-called escape place, so that the amount of shrinkage is small.
  • the shrinkable wefts 22 in the horizontal direction are not directly related to the shrinkable wefts 22 of the other woven fabrics (A) adjacent in the longitudinal direction, and thus greatly contract as expected. Therefore, even if the woven structure (A) for forming the decorative portion in the oblique direction is arranged in the vertical direction, the woven structure (A) can be contracted in the horizontal direction to obtain the vertical decoration.
  • the contraction type weft 22 has a clearance, so that the contraction amount is small.
  • the shrinkable warp 21 is largely shrunk substantially as scheduled. Therefore, even if the woven structure (A) is arranged in the horizontal direction, the woven structure (A) can be shrunk in the vertical direction to obtain a decoration in the horizontal direction.
  • a rectangular decoration can be generated only by arranging the woven structures (A) corresponding to the decorative portions in the oblique direction in a rectangular shape.
  • the decoration since the side in the vertical direction is slightly shrunk in the horizontal direction and the side in the horizontal direction is shrunk slightly in the vertical direction, the decoration may lack sharpness.
  • the rectangular decoration lacking sharpness exhibits a new design effect when viewed in reverse.
  • the woven structures (A) are arranged in a triangular shape. Thereby, each woven structure (A) shrink
  • the woven structures (A) are arranged in a circular shape. Thereby, each woven structure (A) shrink
  • This embodiment which is configured in this way, also has the same function and effect as the first embodiment. Furthermore, in the present embodiment, it is possible to obtain a decoration having an arbitrary shape by using only the formation pattern A for forming the decoration part in the oblique direction.
  • the third embodiment will be described with reference to FIG.
  • a case has been described in which a decoration having an arbitrary shape is obtained using three types of formation patterns A to C.
  • the case where an ornament having an arbitrary shape is obtained using only the formation pattern A has been described.
  • an arbitrarily shaped decoration is obtained by using a larger number of formation patterns.
  • the woven structures corresponding to the formation pattern B are arranged in the vertical direction.
  • the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern B is referred to as a woven structure (B).
  • the woven structure (B) has only the second jumping portion 22 ⁇ / b> J in which the shrinkable weft 22 slides on the predetermined number of warps 11 and 21.
  • the fact that the woven structure (B) has only the jumping portion 21J of the shrinkable warp 21 and does not have the jumping portion 22J of the shrinkable weft 22 is expressed as (warp 0, weft 100).
  • composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure which is a scratch structure.
  • the unit of the numerical value is, for example, a percentage.
  • a decoration extending in the vertical direction can be obtained by continuously arranging the plurality of woven structures (B) in the vertical direction.
  • the woven structures corresponding to the formation pattern C are arranged side by side in the horizontal direction.
  • the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern C is referred to as a woven structure (C).
  • the woven structure (C) has a first jumping portion 21 ⁇ / b> J in which the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over a predetermined number of wefts 12 and 22.
  • the state in which the woven structure (C) has only the jumping portion 22J of the shrinkable weft 22 and does not have the jumping portion 21J of the shrinkable warp 21 is expressed as (warp 100, weft 0).
  • the decoration extended in a horizontal direction can be obtained by arranging a some woven structure (C) continuously in the horizontal direction.
  • a woven structure (A) in which the vertical jumping portion 21J and the horizontal jumping portion 22J are dispersedly arranged in accordance with the decoration forming direction is used.
  • the upward direction in FIG. 14 is set to 0 degree as a reference
  • the right lateral direction is 90 degrees
  • the direct downward direction is 180 degrees
  • the left lateral direction is 270 degrees.
  • a woven structure (A) including both the vertical jump portion 21J and the horizontal jump portion 22J is used.
  • the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) is (warp 50, weft 50).
  • the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) gradually changes between (longitude 0, latitude 100) and (longitude 100, latitude 0) according to the angle in the forming direction.
  • the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) may be changed for each predetermined angle such as 1 degree unit, 5 degree unit, and 10 degree unit. Or you may change the composition of the jump part of a woven structure (A) for every basic pattern of the woven structures 11 and 12 of a ground.
  • the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) is (longitude 1, latitude 99), (longitude 2, latitude 98), (longitude 3, latitude 97), (longitude 4, latitude 96). . . It can be changed like (longitude 97, latitude 3), (longitude 98, latitude 2), (longitude 99, latitude 1).
  • the composition change may be made coarser and may be changed to, for example, (longitude 10, latitude 90), (longitude 20, latitude 80), (longitude 30, latitude 70).
  • Range from an angle greater than 90 degrees (> 90) to an angle less than 180 degrees ( ⁇ 180), range from greater than 180 degrees (> 180) to an angle less than 270 degrees ( ⁇ 270), 270 degrees Similarly, the range from the larger angle (> 270) to the angle less than 0 degree ( ⁇ 0 360) gradually changes the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A).
  • This embodiment which is configured in this way, also has the same function and effect as the first embodiment. Furthermore, in this embodiment, the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure having a scratch function is gradually changed step by step in accordance with the direction in which the decoration is formed, so that a finer decoration can be generated.
  • the woven fabric 10 incorporates a decoration that appears when a specific process is applied as a configuration of the woven fabric itself. Therefore, even if the composition of the jumping portion is finely controlled according to the decoration forming direction as in this embodiment, the decoration is formed later by mechanically pressing the woven fabric or ironing the woven fabric. Compared to the case, the permanent decoration can be quickly generated.
  • this invention is not limited to the Example mentioned above.
  • a person skilled in the art can make various additions and changes within the scope of the present invention.
  • the type of yarn to be contracted, the method for contracting the contracting yarn, the method for forming the interlaced portion, and the like can be determined as appropriate.
  • the configuration in which the shrinkable yarn is mixed in the ground woven structure has been described, but instead of this, a stretch structure made of the shrinkable yarn is provided on the ground woven structure. It may be configured.
  • the various features described in the claims can be appropriately combined as necessary in addition to the explicit combination.
PCT/JP2014/063207 2014-05-19 2014-05-19 織布および織布の製造方法 WO2015177837A1 (ja)

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JP2014553378A JP5727685B1 (ja) 2014-05-19 2014-05-19 織布および織布の製造方法
EP14887712.9A EP2998423B1 (en) 2014-05-19 2014-05-19 Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric
US14/782,299 US20170067190A1 (en) 2014-05-19 2014-05-19 Woven fabric and method for manufacturing same
PCT/JP2014/063207 WO2015177837A1 (ja) 2014-05-19 2014-05-19 織布および織布の製造方法
CN201480008122.3A CN105283592B (zh) 2014-05-19 2014-05-19 织布和织布的制造方法

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JP6597109B2 (ja) * 2015-09-18 2019-10-30 トヨタ紡織株式会社 パイピングテープ及びその製造方法並びに起毛マット
US20180135213A1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2018-05-17 Nike, Inc. Woven footwear upper
WO2018200798A1 (en) * 2017-04-27 2018-11-01 Google Llc Connector integration for smart clothing
JP7358335B2 (ja) * 2017-04-28 2023-10-10 アンスパン， インコーポレイテッド トポグラフィカル織布を作成するためのシステムおよび方法

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US20170067190A1 (en) 2017-03-09
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EP2998423A4 (en) 2016-11-16
EP2998423B1 (en) 2018-06-13
CN105283592A (zh) 2016-01-27
CN105283592B (zh) 2017-03-08

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