EP2998423B1 - Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric - Google Patents
Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2998423B1 EP2998423B1 EP14887712.9A EP14887712A EP2998423B1 EP 2998423 B1 EP2998423 B1 EP 2998423B1 EP 14887712 A EP14887712 A EP 14887712A EP 2998423 B1 EP2998423 B1 EP 2998423B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- strands
- predetermined
- leap
- pattern
- yarn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 84
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 47
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 10
- 239000002356 single layer Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 57
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 20
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 16
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 16
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 15
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 14
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 12
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 11
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 6
- 238000004891 communication Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 3
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007792 addition Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006837 decompression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000881 depressing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000013536 elastomeric material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001678 irradiating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003973 paint Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004758 synthetic textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
Definitions
- This invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same.
- Some garments such as skirts, dresses, gowns, jackets, and pants have pleats and other types of embellishments.
- a method for interweaving a yarn suitable for easy formation of a pleat and a yarn not suitable for easy formation of a pleat into a fabric and then creating a pleat using this woven fabric PTL 1, PTL 2.
- US 2,635,648 discloses a dimensionally stable honeycomb fabric having deep pockets disposed in rows throughout the fabric formed as a result of the introduction of several heat-shrinkable yarns into the fabric while it is being woven.
- US 3,553,066 discloses a matelassé, upholstery fabric and the methods of producing an improved fabric of this type.
- a preferred form of the fabric is characterized by a ground of heat shrinkable yarns into which the face fabric is tied at selected points to form irregular pockets.
- the non-uniform and randomly spaced pockets as well as uniform parallel pleats between the face fabric and the ground fabric are filled with an elastomeric material, which is injected into the pockets or pleats through a foraminous backing.
- FR 1 055 169 discloses a method of manufacturing a pinned fabric comprising the application of the shrinkage properties of certain vinyl synthetic textile fibers when they are subjected to certain heat treatments.
- DE 20 2012 100837 discloses a fabric with a "changeant" effect woven from a plurality of threads extending in the A-direction and a plurality of threads running in the B-direction in the direction A-direction, characterized in that the yarns extending in the A-direction At least one yarn (Y) with a shrinkage ratio of more than 3%, the yarn (Y) being partially formed in the weaving process in such a way that at least two consecutive binding points are arranged lowered (C1, C2) of at least two different colors, wherein the central level (H1); Of the thread of the B-direction yarns at the tip of the lifted structure is higher than the upper level (H2) of the lowest thread at the valley of the lowered structure of the B-direction yarns.
- the entire garment includes the pleated area with a high percentage of thermoplastic fiber and the non-pleated area with a low percentage of thermoplastic fiber. PTL 1, therefore, can make the seam between the pleated area and the non-pleated area less noticeable.
- either warp yarn or weft yarn is taken as appropriate for forming a pleat while the other is taken as inappropriate for forming a pleat, and a woven fabric is produced using these yarn.
- This woven fabric is folded along a predetermined fold line into a pleat, which is then selected. This process can accentuate the borderline between the pleated area and the non-pleated area.
- a predetermined section of the woven fabric is thermally or mechanically treated in order to forcibly create a fold line at a second stage.
- the present invention was contrived in view of the foregoing problems, and an object thereof is to provide a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are configured to be able to form embellishments such as pleats.
- a single-layer woven fabric has: a plurality of strands of warp yarn; and a plurality of strands of weft yarn interlaced with the plurality of strands of warp yarn, wherein some of the plurality of strands of warp yarn are strands of shrinkable warp yarn that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, the strands of shrinkable warp yarn have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a first leap portion where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over, and a plurality of the first leap portions are positioned in a first predetermined pattern, and some of the plurality of strands of weft yarn are strands of shrinkable weft yarn that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process, the strands of shrinkable weft yarn have
- the strands of shrinkable warp yarn are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of warp yarn in a third predetermined pattern, and the strands of shrinkable weft yarn are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of weft yarn in a fourth predetermined pattern.
- the strands of shrinkable warp yarn form a constant first shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to the specific process
- the strands of shrinkable weft yarn form a constant second shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process
- a first fold line portion is formed along a weft direction by arranging a plurality of the first shrunk portions in a continuous manner
- a second fold line portion is formed along a warp direction by arranging a plurality of the second shrunk portions in a continuous manner
- a third fold line portion is formed along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction by arranging the plurality of first shrunk portions and the plurality of second shrunk portions in a predetermined direction.
- first shrunk portions and the second shrunk portions are stretchable in response to external force.
- a method for manufacturing a single-layer woven fabric comprising:
- the shrinkable warp yarn shrinks significantly, in which the side with the first leap portion forms a valley, while the other side of the first leap portion protrudes to form a mountain.
- an embellishment is formed in the woven fabric.
- by positioning the shrinkable weft yarn that has the second leap portion in at least one section thereof more embellishments can be formed in the woven fabric. Because embellishments are incorporated in the woven fabric, embellishments that are resistant to wearing and washing can be formed.
- these embodiments use shrinkable warp yarn that shrinks in a lengthwise direction more significantly than the other warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, and shrinkable weft yarn that shrinks in the lengthwise direction more significantly than the other weft yarn when subjected to a specific process.
- the shrinkable warp yarn and shrinkable weft yarn each leap over a predetermined number strands of yarn in a different direction, at one or more sections in the lengthwise direction.
- These leap portions may be provided on the front side or the rear side of the woven fabric. A plurality of the leap portions can be provided on the front side and the rear side.
- shrunk portions Subjecting the woven fabric to heat or other specific processes results in shrinkage of the shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable weft yarn and hence the leap portions, forming shrunk portions.
- Making the shrunk portions continuous can create linear embellishments such as straight lines and curved lines.
- the shrunk portions keep the shapes thereof constant. By “constant,” it means that the shrunk portions do not disappear by normal wear or washing and therefore can always be recognized by a user.
- the shrunk portions can keep the shape thereof constant against the resilience of a base weave, the shrunk portions can shrink when applied with a certain level of external force.
- Fig. 1 is a front view of a garment 1 made of a woven fabric according to the present embodiment.
- the garment 1 is one application example of a woven fabric 10 (see Fig. 2 and the like) according to the present embodiment, such as a dress, a skirt, a jacket, a pair of pants, a shirt, an apron, a glove, a sock, and the like.
- the woven fabric 10 according to the present embodiment can be applied to materials other than the garment 1, such as bags, wrapping cloths, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, various covers, ties, ribbons, wallets, card holders, cushions, and umbrellas.
- the garment 1 is produced by joining, for example, a front piece 2, a back piece 3, and sleeves 4.
- the front piece 2, the back piece 3, and the sleeves 4 may be formed separately and then stitched together.
- the front piece 2, the back piece 3, and the sleeves 4 may be woven at the same time while having these pieces connected to one another, and at the end the parts that let the human body parts pass through out of the connected parts may be cut out.
- the garment 1 has a plurality of embellishment elements 5A to 5F. Similarly to embroidered patterns or paint, these embellishment elements 5A to 5F are not provided to the garment 1 afterwards, but these are physical embellishments that are provided in the woven fabric 10 from the beginning, the material for the garment 1. In the present embodiment, examples of such physical embellishments that are prepared in the woven fabric 10 from the beginning include linear patterns and pleats.
- the embellishment elements 5A to 5F are generically referred to as "embellishment elements 5," hereinafter, if they are not to be discriminated from one another.
- the embellishment elements 5 are linear patterns, pleats and the like.
- the linear patterns here do not mean planar patterns such as base patterns, but are three-dimensional linear patterns that are obtained by changing the shape of a part of a weave into a three-dimensional concave or convex shape.
- the shapes and locations of the embellishment elements 5 displayed in the garment 1 are merely exemplary; thus, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the configuration shown in Fig. 1 .
- the embellishment element 5A extending horizontally is formed in each shoulder portion of the garment 1.
- the wavelike embellishment element 5B is formed in the section from the chest to the waistline of the garment 1.
- the grid-like embellishment element 5C is formed in the section from the waist down of the garment 1.
- the arc-shaped embellishment element 5D is formed in the hem of the garment 1.
- the circular embellishment element 5E and the linear embellishment element 5F are formed in each sleeve of the garment 1.
- Fig. 2 shows an example of the weaves of the woven fabric 10, the material for the garment 1.
- Fig. 2 shows an example of incorporating a stretchy texture only in the vertical direction of the woven fabric 10.
- An example of incorporating the stretchy texture in the horizontal direction of the woven fabric 10 is described hereinafter with reference to Figs. 8 and 9 .
- a base weave is formed by interlacing normal warp yarn 11 and normal weft yarn 12 by a predetermined rule.
- Examples of the base weave include a variety of weaves such as a plain weave and a twill weave.
- the normal warp yarn 11 and the normal weft yarn 12 are made of, for example, polyester.
- the normal warp yarn 11 is an example of the "other strands of warp yarn” or “strands of warp yarn”
- the normal weft yarn 12 is an example of the "other strands of weft yarn” or "strands of weft yarn.”
- the material for the normal yarns is not limited to polyester. Yarns made of other materials may be used as well.
- the stretchy texture is stacked on the base weave.
- the stretchy texture is a weave that is formed from a yarn that shrinks when subjected to a specific process. Therefore, the stretchy texture is formed from a shrinkable warp yarn 21 and/or a shrinkable weft yarn 22.
- the direction in which the stretchy texture shrinks and the method for forming the stretchy texture are described hereinafter with reference to Fig. 6 .
- the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is configured with, for example, a core 211 and a covering yarn 212 wrapped around the outer circumference of the core 211.
- the shrinkable weft yarn 22 is configured with, for example, a core 221 and a covering yarn 222 wrapped around the outer circumference of the core 221.
- a material that shrinks significantly in the lengthwise direction when heated at a predetermined temperature such as polyurethane, is used for the cores 211, 221.
- a material similar to that of the normal yarns, such as polyester, is used for the covering yarns 212, 222.
- the same material can be used for the covering yarns 212, 222 and for the yarns 11, 12 used in the base weave, to eliminate the sense of disharmony, resulting in a natural base pattern.
- the material for the normal yarns 11, 12 and the material for the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 do not have to be the same and may be different from each other.
- the material for the normal warp yarn 11 and normal weft yarn 12 may be changed, and the material for the core 211 of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 and the core 221 of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 may be changed.
- the material for the covering yarn 212 of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 and the covering yarn 222 of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 may be changed as well.
- the thicknesses and colors of the yarns 11, 12, 21, 22 can be changed.
- the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 may be made of a plurality of different materials or a single material, as described above.
- the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 may have the property of shrinking more significantly than a yarn configuring the base weave, when subjected to the "specific process," such as a heat treatment. Conversely, the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 do not shrink before subjected to the specific process. Such property enables stable and accurate weaving of the woven fabric 10 using both the normal yarns 11, 12 and the shrinkable yarns 21, 22. Note that the materials, the thicknesses, the configuration of the base weave, and the like can be determined accordingly.
- the base weave of the woven fabric 10 shown in Fig. 2 is a plain weave in which the normal warp yarn 11 and the normal weft yarn 12 are aligned. Some of a plurality of strands of warp yarn configuring the plain weave are strands of the shrinkable warp yarn 21.
- the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is used in place of the normal warp yarn 11 at six-strand intervals.
- the stretchy texture formed from the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is stacked by being woven into the base texture.
- the shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over a predetermined number of strands of weft yarn 12 at predetermined positions in accordance with a first pattern defined based on the design of the garment 1. Leaping over the other intersecting yarn is also called “to slide a yarn.” In Fig. 2 , the parts where the shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over the weft yarns 12 are leap portions 21J described as "first leap portions.”
- the number of strands of the weft yarn 12 that are leaped over by the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is set to be greater than the number of strands of the weft yarns 12 that are continuously leaped over by the warp yarn 11 in the base weave.
- the number of these strands of yarn can be set in accordance with the sizes or strengths of the embellishments.
- the first predetermined number can be set to be several times greater than the first reference number.
- the leap portions 21J include a front-side leap portion 21J(1) passing across the front side of the woven fabric 10 and a rear-side leap portion 21J(2) passing across the rear side of the woven fabric 10.
- a single strand of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 has at least one leap portion 21J.
- one strand of shrinkable warp yarn 21 has at least one front-side leap portion 21J(1) and at least one rear-side leap portion 21J(2) (a plurality of each of the leap portions, in actuality).
- the shrinkable warp yarn 21 shrinks significantly in the lengthwise direction, as shown by the arrows F1.
- the front-side leap portion 21J(1) shrinks, the rear side of the front-side leap portion 21J(1) protrudes.
- Such shrinkage of a plurality of adjacent front-side leap portions 21J(1) results in the formation of a fold line resembling a horizontal groove.
- numbers for identifying the yarns of the weave are provided. Alphabets are used for the columns and Arabic numerals for the lines.
- the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is used in columns a and g.
- Cells a2 to a6 and cells g2 to g6 represent the front-side leap portions 21J(1). Shrinkage of the plurality of adjacent front-side leap portions 21J(1) results in the formation of a fold line (a line connecting a4, b4, c4, d4, e4, f4, g4, and h4), with, for example, the weft yarn 12 in the 4th line configuring the bottom of the valley.
- Cells a13 to a17 and cells g12 to g17 represent the rear-side leap portions 21J(2).
- Shrinkage of the plurality of adjacent rear-side leap portions 21J(2) results in the formation of a fold line (a line connecting a15, b15, c15, d15, e15, f15, g15, and h15), with, for example, the weft yarn 12 in the 15th line configuring the peak.
- Fig. 4 schematically shows changes that occur when the shrinkable yarns shrink.
- Fig. 4(a) is a cross-sectional diagram of an enlargement of the leap portion 21J of the shrinkable yarn 21, showing a state prior to a heat treatment.
- the direction of the warp yarn is the horizontal direction of Fig. 4 .
- the front-side leap portion and the rear-side leap portion are not discriminated from each other.
- Fig. 4(b) shows a state that results after the heat treatment.
- shrinkage of the leap portion 21J results in downward protrusion of the weft yarn 12 in the vicinity of the center of the leap portion 21J, forming a shrunk portion 23.
- Fig. 5 shows how the front-side leap portion 21J(1) and the rear-side leap portion 21J(2) shrink. Because the leap portion 21J(1) forming a valley and the leap portion 21J(2) forming a mountain are located relatively close to each other, as shown in this Fig. 5 the areas where the leap portions 21J(1), 21J(2) are located change significantly in a three-dimensional manner. As a result, a three-dimensional appearance beyond a simple pattern can be achieved.
- FIG. 6 shows formation patterns A, B, C for the embellishment elements 5.
- the formation pattern A is for forming an oblique embellishment element 5, the formation pattern B for a vertical (Y-direction) embellishment element 5, and the formation pattern C for a horizontal (X-direction) embellishment element 5.
- Fig. 6 shows a table of the relationship between the locations of the leap portions and the shapes of the embellishment elements 5 obtained by shrinkage of the leap portions, with respect to the formation patterns A to C of different directions.
- the locations where the leap portions are formed vary depending on the angles of the formation patterns A.
- the formation patterns A are illustrated as a single formation pattern A.
- a plurality of leap portions are positioned vertically (the direction of the warp yarn) and horizontally (the direction of the weft yarn), as shown by the formation pattern A.
- the angle of the embellishment element 5 e.g., the angle with respect to the warp yarn 11 or the weft yarn 12
- the angle of the embellishment element 5 can be changed by adjusting the number of vertical leap portions and the number of horizontal leap portions.
- a plurality of leap portions 22J extending along the weft yarn are positioned, as shown by the formation pattern B.
- the embellishment element 5 extending vertically can be obtained by vertically arranging the leap portions 22J that slide horizontally.
- a horizontal embellishment element 5 In order to form a horizontal embellishment element 5, a plurality of leap portions 21J extending along the direction of the warp yarn are positioned, as shown by the formation pattern C.
- the embellishment element 5 extending in the horizontal can be obtained by horizontally arranging the leap portions 22J that slide vertically.
- the formation patterns are associated with eight areas that are divided every 45 degrees, but the angles of the areas do not have to be equal.
- various oblique embellishments can be created only with the formation pattern A used for forming an oblique embellishment, or various embellishments can be created with a more detailed formation pattern.
- Fig. 7 shows a method for forming embellishments in various shapes by combining a plurality of embellishment elements 5 of different formation patterns.
- a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the upper and lower sides extending horizontally based on the horizontal formation pattern C.
- embellishment elements configuring the upper and lower sides can be obtained.
- a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the right and left sides extending vertically based on the vertical formation pattern B. As a result, embellishment elements configuring the right and left sides can be obtained.
- a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the base extending horizontally based on the horizontal formation pattern C.
- a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the right and left sides extending obliquely toward the apex are formed based on the oblique formation pattern A. Because the angles of the right side and the left side are different, the locations where the leap portions are formed vary; however, the explanation thereof is omitted.
- a circular shape can be simulated by properly arranging the formation patterns A to C.
- an embellishment element in substantially a circular shape can be obtained by positioning embellishment elements of the horizontal formation pattern C on the top and bottom of the circle, embellishment elements of the vertical formation pattern B on the left and right sides of the circle, and embellishment elements of the oblique formation pattern A in diagonal positions.
- Fig. 8 shows a weave of the oblique formation pattern A.
- Fig. 8 (a) shows a mountain weave 10A1
- Fig. 8(b) a valley weave 10A2. Note that that Fig. 8(a) and Fig. 8(b) correspond to each other to some extent but not completely. The same applies to Figs. 9 and 10 .
- the "mountain” here means the shape of a part protruding from the surrounding areas of the weave.
- the “mountain” means a convex shape in which the weave 10A1 protrudes toward the observer.
- the “valley” here means the shape of a part depressing from the surrounding areas of the weave.
- the “valley” means a concave shape in which the weave 10A2 depresses toward the page space (the side opposite to the observer).
- the formation pattern A is used to form an oblique embellishment element
- the vertical leap portion 21J and the horizontal leap portion 22J are positioned in the weave 10A2, depending on the angle (orientation) of the embellishment element.
- An oblique embellishment element is obtained in accordance with the combination of the vertical leap portion 21J and the horizontal leap portion 22J.
- the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 are partially exposed in parts of the mountain weave 10A1, these exposed parts are not the leap portions 21J, 22J.
- the leap portions 21J, 22J are designed to shrink when heated and are the areas in which a predetermined number of strands of yarn in a different direction are leaped over.
- the partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21, 22 do not leap over a predetermined number of strands of yarn of a different direction, but are pressed down by the normal yarns 11, 12.
- the yarn 21 is interlaced with the normal weft yarn 12 (a2, a3, a5, a6) and therefore is prevented from deforming when heated. Therefore, the shrinkable warp yarn 21 passing across the column a does not have the leap portion 21J, as far as Fig. 8(a) shows.
- Fig. 9 shows a weave of the vertical formation pattern B.
- Fig. 9(a) shows a mountain weave 10B1
- Fig. 9(b) shows a valley weave 10B2.
- Fig. 9(a) showing the mountain weave 10B1
- the leap portions are formed in the valley weave.
- Partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21, 22 are interlaced with the normal yarns 11, 12 and therefore are prevented from deforming when heated.
- the shrinkable warp yarn 21 equivalent to a pair of strands of the weft yarn is exposed in a continuous manner at a1 and a2, as well as at a4 and a5, but is interlaced with the weft yarn 12 passing across the third line and the weft yarn 12 passing across the sixth line, and therefore is prevented from deforming when heated.
- a plurality of horizontal leap portions 22J are positioned vertically in the valley weave 10B2.
- Fig. 9(b) shows a leap portion 22J containing a1, b1, c1, d1, a leap portion 22J containing f1, g1, h1, and a leap portion 22J containing c4, d4, e4, f4, g4.
- Each of these leap portions 22J leaps over five strands of the warp yarn.
- the plurality of leap portions 22J shown in the first line are shown only partially for the convenience of illustration.
- Fig. 10 shows a weave of the horizontal formation pattern C.
- Fig. 10(a) shows a mountain weave 10C1
- Fig. 10(b) shows a valley weave 10C2.
- a leap portion 21J that leaps over at least six strands of the weft yarn 12 and at least six strands of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 is formed in the column g.
- the oblique, vertical, and horizontal embellishment elements can be obtained by configuring the weaves in which the leap portions are positioned in a predetermined pattern, as described with reference to Figs. 8 to 10 . Then, various shapes such as rectangular shapes, triangular shapes, and circular shapes can be expressed by using a plurality of combination elements of the embellishments formed in the different directions.
- the woven fabric 10 can be deformed significantly by positioning the front-side leap portions and the rear-side leap portions close to each other. Accordingly, embellishments such as pleats can be realized.
- a method for manufacturing the woven fabric 10 is schematically explained with reference to Figs. 11 and 12 .
- a woven fabric generation system for generating the woven fabric 10 can be configured with, for example, a design data generating device 110, an automatic weaving machine 120 connected to the design data generating device 110 by a communication network CN, and a heating device 130.
- the design data generating device 110 is a computer that determines the configurations (weaves) of the woven fabric 10 based on the design of the garment 1 and outputs the configurations in the form of design data.
- the design data generating device 110 may be connected to the automatic weaving machine 120 without having the communication network CN therebetween.
- the automatic weaving machine 120 may be provided with, for example, a function for generating the design data.
- the automatic weaving machine 120 is configured with, for example, a warp yarn feeder 121, a weft yarn feeder 122, a shrinkable warp yarn feeder 123, a shrinkable weft yarn feeder 124, and a weaving machine controller 125.
- the warp yarn feeder 121 feeds the warp yarn 11.
- the weft yarn feeder 122 feeds the weft yarn 12.
- the shrinkable warp yarn feeder 123 feeds the shrinkable warp yarn 21.
- the shrinkable weft yarn feeder 124 feeds the shrinkable weft yarn 22.
- the weaving machine controller 125 controls the feeders 121 to 124.
- the weaving machine controller 125 controls the feeders 121 to 124 based on the data received through the communication network CN.
- the data generated by the design data generating device 110 can be input to the weaving machine controller 125 without using the communication network CN.
- the data can be stored in a storage medium such as a flash memory device, and then the data can be input to the weaving machine controller 125 by connecting the storage medium to the weaving machine controller 125.
- the heating device 130 is a device for performing a heat treatment, an example of the "specific process," on the woven fabric 10.
- the heating device 130 may be installed in the vicinity of the automatic weaving machine 120 or away from the automatic weaving machine 120.
- the embellishment elements 5 emerge as a result of heating the woven fabric that physically incorporates the embellishment structures with the heating device 130.
- the heating device 130 can be considered as not being included in the woven fabric generation system.
- the specific process is not limited to a heat treatment.
- a cooling treatment, a pressure treatment, a decompression treatment, a process for irradiating light or an electric wave of a specific wavelength, a process for applying an ultrasonic wave, a process for applying vibrations, a process for exposing the woven fabric to gas or liquid having a specific component, or any other processes that can cause the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 to shrink more than the normal yarns may be performed.
- any method can be used to heat the woven fabric.
- the woven fabric may be heated with, for example, high-temperature steam, an infrared ray, warm air, and the like.
- FIG. 12 Schematic operations of the woven fabric generation system are now described with reference to the flow diagram shown in Fig. 12 .
- a designer determines the design of the garment 1 (S1). In so doing, the designer can also determine embellishments such as pleats and linear patterns.
- the locations for the formation patterns A to C are calculated in order to realize the determined embellishments, and weaves are determined in view of the locations of the formation patterns and the other considerations such as a base pattern (S2).
- the configurations of the weaves can automatically be determined using the design data generating device 110.
- the data representing the determined configurations of the weaves are transmitted from the design data generating device 110 to the weaving machine controller 125 of the weaving machine 120 through the communication network CN.
- the weaving machine controller 125 generates the woven fabric 10 by controlling the feeders 121 to 124 based on the received data (S3).
- the woven fabric 10 is manufactured by weaving the normal warp yarn 11 and weft yarn 12, a plurality of strands of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 that configure the first leap portions 21J in the first predetermined pattern and are positioned between strands of the normal warp yarn 11 in the third predetermined pattern, and a plurality of strands of shrinkable weft yarn 22 that configure the second leap portion 22J in the second predetermined pattern and are positioned between strands of the normal weft yarn 12 in the fourth predetermined pattern.
- the first predetermined pattern defines the number of strands of weft yarn to be leaped over by the vertical leap portion 21J and a location where the leap portion 21J emerges.
- the second predetermined pattern defines the number of strands of warp yarn to be leaped over by the horizontal leap portion 22J and a location where the leap portion 22J emerges.
- the third predetermined pattern defines a location where the shrinkable warp yarn 21 passes across.
- the fourth predetermined pattern defines a location where the shrinkable weft yarn 22 passes across.
- step S5 demonstrates a woven state of the finished woven fabric but is not exactly a manufacturing step. For this reason, step S5 is shown by a two-dot chain line.
- the three-dimensional appearance of the woven fabric 10 is produced by generating the embellishment elements 5 with a heat treatment and by connecting the embellishment elements 5 such as pleats.
- the embellishment elements that emerge by being heated are provided in the woven fabric 10. Therefore, unlike the conventional techniques of using highly shrinkable yarns and mechanically and thermally forming pleats by means of an iron or the like, stable embellishments resistant to wearing and washing can be obtained.
- the mountain weave and the valley weave can be positioned close to each other as shown in Fig. 5 , bringing about a greater deformation in the woven fabric 10.
- the effects of the desired three-dimensional embellishments can be achieved by adjusting the configurations of the mountain and valley.
- a second example is now described with reference to Fig. 13 .
- the following examples, including the present example, correspond to modifications of the first example. Therefore, the differences with the first example are mainly described.
- various shapes of embellishment elements are formed using only the formation pattern A which is used for forming an oblique embellishment element as described with reference to Figs. 6 and 8 .
- weaves for forming the embellishment elements of the formation pattern A are arranged into a rectangular shape to obtain a rectangular embellishment.
- the shrinkable yarns 21, 22 are positioned vertically and horizontally, as shown in Fig. 8 . Therefore, basically the embellishment elements are formed obliquely in accordance with a resultant force of the force of shrinkage of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 and the force of shrinkage of the shrinkable weft yarn 22.
- continuously positioning weaves corresponding to the formation pattern A in the base weave as shown in Fig. 13 results in the formation of embellishment elements along the direction in which the weaves are positioned.
- a certain weave corresponding to the formation pattern A shrinks to form an embellishment element that extends along the direction of another adjacent weave (a weave corresponding to the formation pattern A).
- a weave corresponding to the formation pattern A For convenience, the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern A are referred to as "weaves(A)" hereinafter.
- the weaves (A) shrink both vertically and horizontally.
- the vertical shrinkable warp yarn 21 extends in a continuous manner, has a way out so to speak, and therefore does not shrink much.
- the horizontal shrinkable weft yarn 22 is not related directly to the shrinkable weft yarn 22 of another adjacent vertical weave(A), and therefore shrink significantly almost as expected. Therefore, even by simply arranging vertically the weaves(A) for forming the oblique embellishment elements, the weaves(A) can be shrunk horizontally, resulting in a vertical embellishment.
- the weaves(A) are arranged into a triangular shape. Therefore, each of the weaves(A) shrinks in such a manner as to generate an embellishment element along the direction of the other adjacent weave(A).
- the weaves(A) are arranged into a circular shape. Therefore, each of the weaves (A) shrinks in such a manner as to generate an embellishment element along the direction of the other adjacent weave(A).
- the present example configured as described above also provides the same operational effects as the first example.
- the present example can also obtain any shapes of embellishments only by using the formation pattern A used for forming an oblique embellishment element.
- a third example is now described with reference to Fig. 14 .
- the first example has described obtaining any shapes of embellishments by using the three types of formation patterns A to C.
- the second example has described obtaining any shapes of embellishments by using the formation pattern A alone.
- the third example (the present example) obtains any shapes of embellishments by using more formation patterns.
- weaves corresponding to the formation pattern B are arranged vertically.
- the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern B are referred to as "weaves(B)."
- the weaves(B) each have only the second leap portion 22J in which the shrinkable weft yarns 22 slide across a predetermined number of strands of warp yarns 11, 21.
- the weaves(B) that only have the leap portions 21J of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 but do not have the leap portions 22J of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 are each expressed as "warp 0, weft 100.” Such expression represents the composition of a leap portion of a weave with a stretchy texture. The numerical values are expressed in percent.
- a vertical embellishment can be obtained by arranging a plurality of weaves(B) vertically in a continuous manner.
- weaves corresponding to the formation pattern C are arranged horizontally.
- the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern C are referred to as "weaves(C)."
- the weaves(C) each have the first leap portion 21J in which the shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over a predetermined number of strands of the weft yarns 12, 22, as described with reference to Fig. 10 .
- the weaves (C) that only have the leap portions 22J of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 but do not have the leap portions 21J of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 are each expressed as "warp 100, weft 0."
- a horizontal embellishment can be obtained by arranging a plurality of weaves(C) horizontally in a continuous manner.
- the weaves(A) are used in which the vertical leap portions 21J and the horizontal leap portions 22J are positioned in a dispersed manner in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed.
- the angle of the direction heading straight up represents a reference angle of 0 degrees
- the angle of the right lateral direction is 90 degrees
- the angle of the direction heading straight down is 180 degrees
- the angle of the left lateral direction is 270 degrees.
- the weaves (A) having both the vertical leap portions 21J and the horizontal leap portions 22J are used.
- the angle of the direction in which an embellishment is formed is 45 degrees
- the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) are (warp 50, weft 50).
- the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) gradually change between (warp 0, weft 100) and (warp 100, weft 0) in accordance with the angle of the direction in which an embellishment is formed.
- compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) may be changed at every predetermined angle of, for example, 1 degree, 5 degrees, 10 degrees, or the like.
- the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) may be changed with respect to each basic pattern of the base weaves 11, 12.
- the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) can be changed in the following manner: (warp 1, weft 99), (warp 2, weft 98), (warp 3, weft 97), (warp 4, weft 96) ... (warp 97, weft 3), (warp 98, weft 2), (warp 99, weft 1).
- the compositions may be changed more roughly, such as (warp 10, weft 90), (warp 20, weft 80), (warp 30, weft 70).
- the present example configured as described above provides the same operational effects as the first example. Moreover, in the present example, finer embellishments can be generated because the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves with a stretchy function are changed gradually in a stepwise manner in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed.
- the woven fabric 10 incorporates, as a component thereof, embellishments that emerge when subjected to the specific process. Therefore, even when the compositions of the leap portions are controlled in detail in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed as in the present embodiment, a constant embellishment can be generated promptly, in comparison to forming an embellishment afterwards by mechanically compressing or ironing the woven fabric.
- the present invention is not limited to the foregoing examples.
- Those skilled in the art can make various additions, modifications, and the like within the scope of the present invention.
- the types of the shrinkable yarns, the method for shrinking the shrinkable yarns, the method for forming the leap portions, and the like can be changed accordingly.
- the present embodiment has described mixing the shrinkable yarns in a base weave, a stretchy texture composed of the shrinkable yarns may be provided in the base weave in a stacked manner.
- the various characteristics described in the scope of claims can be combined, if necessary, in a manner other than as described above.
Description
- This invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same.
- Some garments such as skirts, dresses, gowns, jackets, and pants have pleats and other types of embellishments.
There is known a method for interweaving a yarn suitable for easy formation of a pleat and a yarn not suitable for easy formation of a pleat into a fabric and then creating a pleat using this woven fabric (PTL 1, PTL 2). -
- [PTL 1]
Japanese Patent Application Publication No.2008-7879 - [PTL 2]
Japanese Patent Application Publication No.2004-339671 -
US 2,635,648 discloses a dimensionally stable honeycomb fabric having deep pockets disposed in rows throughout the fabric formed as a result of the introduction of several heat-shrinkable yarns into the fabric while it is being woven. -
US 3,553,066 discloses a matelassé, upholstery fabric and the methods of producing an improved fabric of this type. A preferred form of the fabric is characterized by a ground of heat shrinkable yarns into which the face fabric is tied at selected points to form irregular pockets. The non-uniform and randomly spaced pockets as well as uniform parallel pleats between the face fabric and the ground fabric are filled with an elastomeric material, which is injected into the pockets or pleats through a foraminous backing. -
FR 1 055 169 -
DE 20 2012 100837 discloses a fabric with a "changeant" effect woven from a plurality of threads extending in the A-direction and a plurality of threads running in the B-direction in the direction A-direction, characterized in that the yarns extending in the A-direction At least one yarn (Y) with a shrinkage ratio of more than 3%, the yarn (Y) being partially formed in the weaving process in such a way that at least two consecutive binding points are arranged lowered (C1, C2) of at least two different colors, wherein the central level (H1); Of the thread of the B-direction yarns at the tip of the lifted structure is higher than the upper level (H2) of the lowest thread at the valley of the lowered structure of the B-direction yarns. - According to the conventional technique described in
PTL 1, the entire garment includes the pleated area with a high percentage of thermoplastic fiber and the non-pleated area with a low percentage of thermoplastic fiber.PTL 1, therefore, can make the seam between the pleated area and the non-pleated area less noticeable. - According to the conventional technique described
PTL 2, either warp yarn or weft yarn is taken as appropriate for forming a pleat while the other is taken as inappropriate for forming a pleat, and a woven fabric is produced using these yarn. This woven fabric is folded along a predetermined fold line into a pleat, which is then selected. This process can accentuate the borderline between the pleated area and the non-pleated area. - Both of these conventional techniques mix the yarn suitable for easy formation of a pleat and the yarn not suitable for easy formation of a pleat.
- In either technique, a predetermined section of the woven fabric is thermally or mechanically treated in order to forcibly create a fold line at a second stage.
- Therefore, the created pleats are likely to wear out or disappear after repeated wear or after getting wet in the rain or washed.
- This is because the conventional woven fabrics are merely manufactured in a way that embellishments such as pleats can easily be formed afterwards, and do not have the structure for forming embellishments themselves.
- The present invention was contrived in view of the foregoing problems, and an object thereof is to provide a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are configured to be able to form embellishments such as pleats.
- A single-layer woven fabric according to one aspect of the present invention has: a plurality of strands of warp yarn; and a
plurality of strands of weft yarn interlaced with the plurality of strands of warp yarn, wherein some of the plurality of strands of warp yarn are strands of shrinkable warp yarn that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, the strands of shrinkable warp yarn have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a first leap portion where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over, and a plurality of the first leap portions are positioned in a first predetermined pattern, and some of the plurality of strands of weft yarn are strands of shrinkable weft yarn that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process, the strands of shrinkable weft yarn have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a second leap portion where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of warp yarn are leaped over, and a plurality of the second leap portions are positioned in a second predetermined pattern, and further comprising a base weave that is obtained by interlacing the other strands of warp yarn and the other strands of weft yarn, wherein the first predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of weft yarn leaped over by the other strands of warp yarn in the base weave, and the second predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of warp yarn leaped over by the other strands of weft yarn in the base weave, and the first leap portion is either a front-side first leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side first leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric, the second leap portion is either a front-side second leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side second leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric,
the front-side first leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern, the rear-side first leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern, the front-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, and the rear-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, and the predetermined front-side first pattern and the predetermined rear-side first pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side first leap portion and the rear-side first leap portion are close to each other, and the predetermined front-side second pattern and the predetermined rear-side second pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side second leap portion and the rear-side second leap portion are close to each other. - In a preferred embodiment, the strands of shrinkable warp yarn are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of warp yarn in a third predetermined pattern, and the strands of shrinkable weft yarn are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of weft yarn in a fourth predetermined pattern.
- In a preferred embodiment, the strands of shrinkable warp yarn form a constant first shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to the specific process, and the strands of shrinkable weft yarn form a constant second shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process.
- In a preferred embodiment, a first fold line portion is formed along a weft direction by arranging a plurality of the first shrunk portions in a continuous manner, a second fold line portion is formed along a warp direction by arranging a plurality of the second shrunk portions in a continuous manner, and a third fold line portion is formed along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction by arranging the plurality of first shrunk portions and the plurality of second shrunk portions in a predetermined direction.
- In a preferred embodiment, the first shrunk portions and the second shrunk portions are stretchable in response to external force.
- A method for manufacturing a single-layer woven fabric, comprising:
- positioning, between a plurality of strands of warp yarn and in a first predetermined pattern, shrinkable warp yarn that shrinks more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, in such a manner as to form at least one first leap portion where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over; and
- positioning, between a plurality of strands of weft yarn and in a second predetermined pattern, shrinkable weft yarn that shrinks more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process, in such a manner as to form at least one second leap portion where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of warp yarn are leaped over, and the first predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of weft yarn leaped over by the other strands of warp yarn in the base weave that is obtained by interlacing the other strands of warp yarn and the other strands of weft yarn, and the second predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of warp yarn leaped over by the other strands of weft yarn in the base weave, and the first leap portion is either a front-side first leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side first leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric, the second leap portion is either a front-side second leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side second leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric, the front-side first leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern, the rear-side first leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern, the front-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, and the rear-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, and the predetermined front-side first pattern and the predetermined rear-side first pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side first leap portion and the rear-side first leap portion are close to each other, and the predetermined front-side second pattern and the predetermined rear-side second pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side second leap portion and the rear-side second leap portion are close to each other.
- According to the present invention, when a specific process is performed on the woven fabric, the shrinkable warp yarn shrinks significantly, in which the side with the first leap portion forms a valley, while the other side of the first leap portion protrudes to form a mountain. As a result, an embellishment is formed in the woven fabric. In addition, by positioning the shrinkable weft yarn that has the second leap portion in at least one section thereof, more embellishments can be formed in the woven fabric. Because embellishments are incorporated in the woven fabric, embellishments that are resistant to wearing and washing can be formed.
-
- [
Fig. 1 ]
Fig. 1 is a front view of a garment with embellishments such as pleats and linear patterns. - [
Fig. 2 ]
Fig. 2 shows an example of a weave diagram of a woven fabric. - [
Fig. 3 ]
Fig. 3 is an explanatory diagram showing schematic structures and the like of normal warp yarn, normal weft yarn, shrinkable warp yarn, and shrinkable weft yarn. - [
Fig. 4 ]
Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional diagram showing how shrinkage of the shrinkable yarn forms a mountain and a valley as physical embellishments in the woven fabric. - [
Fig. 5 ]
Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional diagram showing how the mountains and valleys are formed on the front and rear sides of the woven fabric. - [
Fig. 6 ]
Fig. 6 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship among formation patterns A to C of the embellishments to be formed in the woven fabric, information on which one of the warp yarn or the weft yarn to use to form the leap portions, and the shapes of the embellishments obtained with the leap portions. - [
Fig. 7 ]
Fig. 7 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship between the shapes of the embellishments and a method for positioning the shrinkable yarn for realizing the shapes. - [
Fig. 8 ]
Fig. 8 is a weave diagram of an area A where an oblique embellishment is formed. - [
Fig. 9 ]
Fig. 9 is a weave diagram of an area B where a vertical embellishment is formed. - [
Fig. 10 ]
Fig. 10 is a weave diagram of an area C where a horizontal embellishment is formed. - [
Fig. 11 ]
Fig. 11 is an explanatory diagram showing a schematic configuration of a weaving machine. - [
Fig. 12 ]
Fig. 12 is a flowchart showing the method for manufacturing the woven fabric. - [
Fig. 13 ]
Fig. 13 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship between the shapes of embellishments and the formation patterns for realizing the shapes, according to a second example. - [
Fig. 14 ]
Fig. 14 is an explanatory diagram showing an example of making the embellishment formation patterns finer, according to a third example. - Embodiments of the present invention are described hereinafter with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, these embodiments are merely exemplary of the present invention, and it should be noted that these embodiments are not intended to limit the technical scope of the present invention.
- As will be described hereinafter in detail, these embodiments use shrinkable warp yarn that shrinks in a lengthwise direction more significantly than the other warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, and shrinkable weft yarn that shrinks in the lengthwise direction more significantly than the other weft yarn when subjected to a specific process. The shrinkable warp yarn and shrinkable weft yarn each leap over a predetermined number strands of yarn in a different direction, at one or more sections in the lengthwise direction. These leap portions may be provided on the front side or the rear side of the woven fabric. A plurality of the leap portions can be provided on the front side and the rear side. Subjecting the woven fabric to heat or other specific processes results in shrinkage of the shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable weft yarn and hence the leap portions, forming shrunk portions. Making the shrunk portions continuous can create linear embellishments such as straight lines and curved lines. The shrunk portions keep the shapes thereof constant. By "constant," it means that the shrunk portions do not disappear by normal wear or washing and therefore can always be recognized by a user. Although the shrunk portions can keep the shape thereof constant against the resilience of a base weave, the shrunk portions can shrink when applied with a certain level of external force.
- A first example is now described with reference to
Figs. 1 to 12 .Fig. 1 is a front view of agarment 1 made of a woven fabric according to the present embodiment. Thegarment 1 is one application example of a woven fabric 10 (seeFig. 2 and the like) according to the present embodiment, such as a dress, a skirt, a jacket, a pair of pants, a shirt, an apron, a glove, a sock, and the like. The wovenfabric 10 according to the present embodiment can be applied to materials other than thegarment 1, such as bags, wrapping cloths, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, various covers, ties, ribbons, wallets, card holders, cushions, and umbrellas. - The
garment 1 is produced by joining, for example, afront piece 2, aback piece 3, andsleeves 4. Thefront piece 2, theback piece 3, and thesleeves 4 may be formed separately and then stitched together. Alternatively, as is known as a seamless manufacturing process, thefront piece 2, theback piece 3, and thesleeves 4 may be woven at the same time while having these pieces connected to one another, and at the end the parts that let the human body parts pass through out of the connected parts may be cut out. - The
garment 1 has a plurality ofembellishment elements 5A to 5F. Similarly to embroidered patterns or paint, theseembellishment elements 5A to 5F are not provided to thegarment 1 afterwards, but these are physical embellishments that are provided in the wovenfabric 10 from the beginning, the material for thegarment 1. In the present embodiment, examples of such physical embellishments that are prepared in the wovenfabric 10 from the beginning include linear patterns and pleats. Theembellishment elements 5A to 5F are generically referred to as "embellishment elements 5," hereinafter, if they are not to be discriminated from one another. Theembellishment elements 5 are linear patterns, pleats and the like. The linear patterns here do not mean planar patterns such as base patterns, but are three-dimensional linear patterns that are obtained by changing the shape of a part of a weave into a three-dimensional concave or convex shape. The shapes and locations of theembellishment elements 5 displayed in thegarment 1 are merely exemplary; thus, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the configuration shown inFig. 1 . - The
embellishment element 5A extending horizontally is formed in each shoulder portion of thegarment 1. Thewavelike embellishment element 5B is formed in the section from the chest to the waistline of thegarment 1. The grid-like embellishment element 5C is formed in the section from the waist down of thegarment 1. The arc-shapedembellishment element 5D is formed in the hem of thegarment 1. Thecircular embellishment element 5E and thelinear embellishment element 5F are formed in each sleeve of thegarment 1. -
Fig. 2 shows an example of the weaves of the wovenfabric 10, the material for thegarment 1.Fig. 2 shows an example of incorporating a stretchy texture only in the vertical direction of the wovenfabric 10. An example of incorporating the stretchy texture in the horizontal direction of the wovenfabric 10 is described hereinafter with reference toFigs. 8 and9 . - First of all, yarns used in the woven
fabric 10 are described with reference toFig. 3 . A base weave, an example of the "first structure," is formed by interlacingnormal warp yarn 11 andnormal weft yarn 12 by a predetermined rule. Examples of the base weave include a variety of weaves such as a plain weave and a twill weave. Thenormal warp yarn 11 and thenormal weft yarn 12 are made of, for example, polyester. Thenormal warp yarn 11 is an example of the "other strands of warp yarn" or "strands of warp yarn," and thenormal weft yarn 12 is an example of the "other strands of weft yarn" or "strands of weft yarn." Note that the material for the normal yarns is not limited to polyester. Yarns made of other materials may be used as well. - The stretchy texture, an example of the "second structure," is stacked on the base weave. The stretchy texture is a weave that is formed from a yarn that shrinks when subjected to a specific process. Therefore, the stretchy texture is formed from a
shrinkable warp yarn 21 and/or ashrinkable weft yarn 22. The direction in which the stretchy texture shrinks and the method for forming the stretchy texture are described hereinafter with reference toFig. 6 . - The
shrinkable warp yarn 21 is configured with, for example, acore 211 and a coveringyarn 212 wrapped around the outer circumference of thecore 211. Similarly, theshrinkable weft yarn 22 is configured with, for example, acore 221 and a coveringyarn 222 wrapped around the outer circumference of thecore 221. A material that shrinks significantly in the lengthwise direction when heated at a predetermined temperature, such as polyurethane, is used for thecores yarns yarns yarns - In the present embodiment, however, the material for the
normal yarns shrinkable yarns normal warp yarn 11 andnormal weft yarn 12 may be changed, and the material for thecore 211 of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 and thecore 221 of theshrinkable weft yarn 22 may be changed. The material for the coveringyarn 212 of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 and the coveringyarn 222 of theshrinkable weft yarn 22 may be changed as well. Moreover, the thicknesses and colors of theyarns - The
shrinkable yarns shrinkable yarns shrinkable yarns fabric 10 using both thenormal yarns shrinkable yarns - Returning to
Fig. 2 , the base weave of the wovenfabric 10 shown inFig. 2 is a plain weave in which thenormal warp yarn 11 and thenormal weft yarn 12 are aligned. Some of a plurality of strands of warp yarn configuring the plain weave are strands of theshrinkable warp yarn 21. In the example shown inFig. 2 , theshrinkable warp yarn 21 is used in place of thenormal warp yarn 11 at six-strand intervals. Thus, the stretchy texture formed from theshrinkable warp yarn 21 is stacked by being woven into the base texture. - The
shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over a predetermined number of strands ofweft yarn 12 at predetermined positions in accordance with a first pattern defined based on the design of thegarment 1. Leaping over the other intersecting yarn is also called "to slide a yarn." InFig. 2 , the parts where theshrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over theweft yarns 12 areleap portions 21J described as "first leap portions." - The number of strands of the
weft yarn 12 that are leaped over by the shrinkable warp yarn 21 (the first predetermined number) is set to be greater than the number of strands of theweft yarns 12 that are continuously leaped over by thewarp yarn 11 in the base weave. The number of these strands of yarn can be set in accordance with the sizes or strengths of the embellishments. When the number of the strands of theweft yarn 12 that are continuously leaped over by thewarp yarn 11 in the base weave is referred to as a first reference number, the first predetermined number can be set to be several times greater than the first reference number. - The
leap portions 21J include a front-side leap portion 21J(1) passing across the front side of the wovenfabric 10 and a rear-side leap portion 21J(2) passing across the rear side of the wovenfabric 10. A single strand of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 has at least oneleap portion 21J. Usually, one strand ofshrinkable warp yarn 21 has at least one front-side leap portion 21J(1) and at least one rear-side leap portion 21J(2) (a plurality of each of the leap portions, in actuality). - When heated, the
shrinkable warp yarn 21 shrinks significantly in the lengthwise direction, as shown by the arrows F1. When the front-side leap portion 21J(1) shrinks, the rear side of the front-side leap portion 21J(1) protrudes. Such shrinkage of a plurality of adjacent front-side leap portions 21J(1) results in the formation of a fold line resembling a horizontal groove. - Similarly, when the rear-
side leap portion 21J(2) shrinks as a result of being heated, the front side of the rear-side leap portion 21J(2) protrudes. Such shrinkage of a plurality of adjacent rear-side leap portions 21J(2) results in the formation of a fold line resembling a horizontal ridgeline. When the fold lines resembling horizontal ridgelines and the fold lines resembling horizontal grooves are formed adjacent to each other in the wovenfabric 10, the wovenfabric 10 deforms three-dimensionally, bringing about a three-dimensional appearance. - For the purpose of providing specific explanation, numbers for identifying the yarns of the weave are provided. Alphabets are used for the columns and Arabic numerals for the lines. The
shrinkable warp yarn 21 is used in columns a and g. Cells a2 to a6 and cells g2 to g6 represent the front-side leap portions 21J(1). Shrinkage of the plurality of adjacent front-side leap portions 21J(1) results in the formation of a fold line (a line connecting a4, b4, c4, d4, e4, f4, g4, and h4), with, for example, theweft yarn 12 in the 4th line configuring the bottom of the valley. - Cells a13 to a17 and cells g12 to g17 represent the rear-
side leap portions 21J(2). Shrinkage of the plurality of adjacent rear-side leap portions 21J(2) results in the formation of a fold line (a line connecting a15, b15, c15, d15, e15, f15, g15, and h15), with, for example, theweft yarn 12 in the 15th line configuring the peak. -
Fig. 4 schematically shows changes that occur when the shrinkable yarns shrink.Fig. 4(a) is a cross-sectional diagram of an enlargement of theleap portion 21J of theshrinkable yarn 21, showing a state prior to a heat treatment. For convenience, the direction of the warp yarn is the horizontal direction ofFig. 4 . InFig. 4 , the front-side leap portion and the rear-side leap portion are not discriminated from each other. -
Fig. 4(b) shows a state that results after the heat treatment. In the figure, shrinkage of theleap portion 21J results in downward protrusion of theweft yarn 12 in the vicinity of the center of theleap portion 21J, forming a shrunkportion 23. -
Fig. 5 shows how the front-side leap portion 21J(1) and the rear-side leap portion 21J(2) shrink. Because theleap portion 21J(1) forming a valley and theleap portion 21J(2) forming a mountain are located relatively close to each other, as shown in thisFig. 5 the areas where theleap portions 21J(1), 21J(2) are located change significantly in a three-dimensional manner. As a result, a three-dimensional appearance beyond a simple pattern can be achieved. - A method for forming the
embellishment elements 5 in different directions in the wovenfabric 10 is now described with reference toFig. 6 . The upper part ofFig. 6 shows formation patterns A, B, C for theembellishment elements 5. The formation pattern A is for forming anoblique embellishment element 5, the formation pattern B for a vertical (Y-direction)embellishment element 5, and the formation pattern C for a horizontal (X-direction)embellishment element 5. - The lower part of
Fig. 6 shows a table of the relationship between the locations of the leap portions and the shapes of theembellishment elements 5 obtained by shrinkage of the leap portions, with respect to the formation patterns A to C of different directions. In regard to the oblique formation patterns A, the locations where the leap portions are formed vary depending on the angles of the formation patterns A. However, due to its rotational symmetry, the formation patterns A are illustrated as a single formation pattern A. - In order to form an
oblique embellishment element 5, a plurality of leap portions are positioned vertically (the direction of the warp yarn) and horizontally (the direction of the weft yarn), as shown by the formation pattern A. The angle of the embellishment element 5 (e.g., the angle with respect to thewarp yarn 11 or the weft yarn 12) can be changed by adjusting the number of vertical leap portions and the number of horizontal leap portions. - In order to form a
vertical embellishment element 5, a plurality ofleap portions 22J extending along the weft yarn are positioned, as shown by the formation pattern B. Theembellishment element 5 extending vertically can be obtained by vertically arranging theleap portions 22J that slide horizontally. - In order to form a
horizontal embellishment element 5, a plurality ofleap portions 21J extending along the direction of the warp yarn are positioned, as shown by the formation pattern C. Theembellishment element 5 extending in the horizontal can be obtained by horizontally arranging theleap portions 22J that slide vertically. InFig. 6 , the formation patterns are associated with eight areas that are divided every 45 degrees, but the angles of the areas do not have to be equal. As will be described in the other examples hereinafter, various oblique embellishments can be created only with the formation pattern A used for forming an oblique embellishment, or various embellishments can be created with a more detailed formation pattern. -
Fig. 7 shows a method for forming embellishments in various shapes by combining a plurality ofembellishment elements 5 of different formation patterns. In order to generate a rectangular embellishment as shown inFig. 7(a) , a plurality ofembellishment elements 5 are formed in the upper and lower sides extending horizontally based on the horizontal formation pattern C. As a result, embellishment elements configuring the upper and lower sides can be obtained. Furthermore, a plurality ofembellishment elements 5 are formed in the right and left sides extending vertically based on the vertical formation pattern B. As a result, embellishment elements configuring the right and left sides can be obtained. - In order to generate a triangular embellishment as shown in
Fig. 7(b) , a plurality ofembellishment elements 5 are formed in the base extending horizontally based on the horizontal formation pattern C. A plurality ofembellishment elements 5 are formed in the right and left sides extending obliquely toward the apex are formed based on the oblique formation pattern A. Because the angles of the right side and the left side are different, the locations where the leap portions are formed vary; however, the explanation thereof is omitted. - In order to generate a circular embellishment as shown in
Fig. 7(c) , a circular shape can be simulated by properly arranging the formation patterns A to C. For instance, an embellishment element in substantially a circular shape can be obtained by positioning embellishment elements of the horizontal formation pattern C on the top and bottom of the circle, embellishment elements of the vertical formation pattern B on the left and right sides of the circle, and embellishment elements of the oblique formation pattern A in diagonal positions. -
Fig. 8 shows a weave of the oblique formation pattern A.Fig. 8 (a) shows a mountain weave 10A1, andFig. 8(b) a valley weave 10A2. Note that thatFig. 8(a) and Fig. 8(b) correspond to each other to some extent but not completely. The same applies toFigs. 9 and10 . - The "mountain" here means the shape of a part protruding from the surrounding areas of the weave. In case of
Fig. 8(a) , the "mountain" means a convex shape in which the weave 10A1 protrudes toward the observer. The "valley" here means the shape of a part depressing from the surrounding areas of the weave. In case ofFig. 8(b) , the "valley" means a concave shape in which the weave 10A2 depresses toward the page space (the side opposite to the observer). - Because the formation pattern A is used to form an oblique embellishment element, the
vertical leap portion 21J and thehorizontal leap portion 22J are positioned in the weave 10A2, depending on the angle (orientation) of the embellishment element. An oblique embellishment element is obtained in accordance with the combination of thevertical leap portion 21J and thehorizontal leap portion 22J. - As shown in
Fig. 8(a) , although theshrinkable yarns leap portions leap portions - The partially exposed
shrinkable yarns 21, 22 (a1, a4, g1, g4, h1) do not leap over a predetermined number of strands of yarn of a different direction, but are pressed down by thenormal yarns shrinkable warp yarn 21 passing across the column a as an example, theyarn 21 is interlaced with the normal weft yarn 12 (a2, a3, a5, a6) and therefore is prevented from deforming when heated. Therefore, theshrinkable warp yarn 21 passing across the column a does not have theleap portion 21J, as far asFig. 8(a) shows. -
Fig. 9 shows a weave of the vertical formation pattern B.Fig. 9(a) shows a mountain weave 10B1, andFig. 9(b) shows a valley weave 10B2.Fig. 9(a) , showing the mountain weave 10B1, does not have anyleap portion 22J, as described with reference toFig. 8(a) . The leap portions are formed in the valley weave. Partially exposedshrinkable yarns normal yarns shrinkable warp yarn 21 equivalent to a pair of strands of the weft yarn is exposed in a continuous manner at a1 and a2, as well as at a4 and a5, but is interlaced with theweft yarn 12 passing across the third line and theweft yarn 12 passing across the sixth line, and therefore is prevented from deforming when heated. - As shown in
Fig. 9(b) , a plurality ofhorizontal leap portions 22J are positioned vertically in the valley weave 10B2. In other words,Fig. 9(b) shows aleap portion 22J containing a1, b1, c1, d1, aleap portion 22J containing f1, g1, h1, and aleap portion 22J containing c4, d4, e4, f4, g4. Each of theseleap portions 22J leaps over five strands of the warp yarn. The plurality ofleap portions 22J shown in the first line are shown only partially for the convenience of illustration. -
Fig. 10 shows a weave of the horizontal formation pattern C.Fig. 10(a) shows a mountain weave 10C1, andFig. 10(b) shows a valley weave 10C2. As shown inFig. 10(b) , aleap portion 21J that leaps over at least six strands of theweft yarn 12 and at least six strands of theshrinkable weft yarn 22 is formed in the column g. - The oblique, vertical, and horizontal embellishment elements can be obtained by configuring the weaves in which the leap portions are positioned in a predetermined pattern, as described with reference to
Figs. 8 to 10 . Then, various shapes such as rectangular shapes, triangular shapes, and circular shapes can be expressed by using a plurality of combination elements of the embellishments formed in the different directions. - Moreover, as described with reference to
Fig. 5 , the wovenfabric 10 can be deformed significantly by positioning the front-side leap portions and the rear-side leap portions close to each other. Accordingly, embellishments such as pleats can be realized. - A method for manufacturing the woven
fabric 10 is schematically explained with reference toFigs. 11 and12 . A woven fabric generation system for generating the wovenfabric 10 can be configured with, for example, a designdata generating device 110, anautomatic weaving machine 120 connected to the designdata generating device 110 by a communication network CN, and aheating device 130. - The design
data generating device 110 is a computer that determines the configurations (weaves) of the wovenfabric 10 based on the design of thegarment 1 and outputs the configurations in the form of design data. The designdata generating device 110 may be connected to theautomatic weaving machine 120 without having the communication network CN therebetween. Theautomatic weaving machine 120 may be provided with, for example, a function for generating the design data. - The
automatic weaving machine 120 is configured with, for example, awarp yarn feeder 121, aweft yarn feeder 122, a shrinkablewarp yarn feeder 123, a shrinkableweft yarn feeder 124, and a weavingmachine controller 125. Thewarp yarn feeder 121 feeds thewarp yarn 11. Theweft yarn feeder 122 feeds theweft yarn 12. The shrinkablewarp yarn feeder 123 feeds theshrinkable warp yarn 21. The shrinkableweft yarn feeder 124 feeds theshrinkable weft yarn 22. - The weaving
machine controller 125 controls thefeeders 121 to 124. The weavingmachine controller 125 controls thefeeders 121 to 124 based on the data received through the communication network CN. Note that the data generated by the designdata generating device 110 can be input to the weavingmachine controller 125 without using the communication network CN. For instance, the data can be stored in a storage medium such as a flash memory device, and then the data can be input to the weavingmachine controller 125 by connecting the storage medium to the weavingmachine controller 125. - The
heating device 130 is a device for performing a heat treatment, an example of the "specific process," on the wovenfabric 10. Theheating device 130 may be installed in the vicinity of theautomatic weaving machine 120 or away from theautomatic weaving machine 120. Theembellishment elements 5 emerge as a result of heating the woven fabric that physically incorporates the embellishment structures with theheating device 130. In a case where the woven fabric in which theembellishment elements 5 have not yet emerged (the woven fabric prior to a heat treatment) can be distributed as it is, theheating device 130 can be considered as not being included in the woven fabric generation system. - Note that the specific process is not limited to a heat treatment. For example, a cooling treatment, a pressure treatment, a decompression treatment, a process for irradiating light or an electric wave of a specific wavelength, a process for applying an ultrasonic wave, a process for applying vibrations, a process for exposing the woven fabric to gas or liquid having a specific component, or any other processes that can cause the
shrinkable yarns - Schematic operations of the woven fabric generation system are now described with reference to the flow diagram shown in
Fig. 12 . A designer determines the design of the garment 1 (S1). In so doing, the designer can also determine embellishments such as pleats and linear patterns. - Once the embellishments are determined, as explained with reference to
Fig. 7 the locations for the formation patterns A to C are calculated in order to realize the determined embellishments, and weaves are determined in view of the locations of the formation patterns and the other considerations such as a base pattern (S2). The configurations of the weaves can automatically be determined using the designdata generating device 110. The data representing the determined configurations of the weaves are transmitted from the designdata generating device 110 to the weavingmachine controller 125 of the weavingmachine 120 through the communication network CN. - The weaving
machine controller 125 generates the wovenfabric 10 by controlling thefeeders 121 to 124 based on the received data (S3). The wovenfabric 10 is manufactured by weaving thenormal warp yarn 11 andweft yarn 12, a plurality of strands of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 that configure thefirst leap portions 21J in the first predetermined pattern and are positioned between strands of thenormal warp yarn 11 in the third predetermined pattern, and a plurality of strands ofshrinkable weft yarn 22 that configure thesecond leap portion 22J in the second predetermined pattern and are positioned between strands of thenormal weft yarn 12 in the fourth predetermined pattern. - The first predetermined pattern defines the number of strands of weft yarn to be leaped over by the
vertical leap portion 21J and a location where theleap portion 21J emerges. The second predetermined pattern defines the number of strands of warp yarn to be leaped over by thehorizontal leap portion 22J and a location where theleap portion 22J emerges. The third predetermined pattern defines a location where theshrinkable warp yarn 21 passes across. The fourth predetermined pattern defines a location where theshrinkable weft yarn 22 passes across. These patterns can automatically be generated based on the design data. - The woven
fabric 10 is heated by the heating device 130 (S4). As a result, theleap portions embellishment elements 5 such as pleats (S5). Note that step S5 demonstrates a woven state of the finished woven fabric but is not exactly a manufacturing step. For this reason, step S5 is shown by a two-dot chain line. The three-dimensional appearance of the wovenfabric 10 is produced by generating theembellishment elements 5 with a heat treatment and by connecting theembellishment elements 5 such as pleats. - According to the present example configured as described above, the embellishment elements that emerge by being heated are provided in the woven
fabric 10. Therefore, unlike the conventional techniques of using highly shrinkable yarns and mechanically and thermally forming pleats by means of an iron or the like, stable embellishments resistant to wearing and washing can be obtained. - In the present example, the mountain weave and the valley weave can be positioned close to each other as shown in
Fig. 5 , bringing about a greater deformation in the wovenfabric 10. The effects of the desired three-dimensional embellishments can be achieved by adjusting the configurations of the mountain and valley. - A second example is now described with reference to
Fig. 13 . The following examples, including the present example, correspond to modifications of the first example. Therefore, the differences with the first example are mainly described. In the present example, various shapes of embellishment elements are formed using only the formation pattern A which is used for forming an oblique embellishment element as described with reference toFigs. 6 and8 . - In
Fig. 13(a) , weaves for forming the embellishment elements of the formation pattern A are arranged into a rectangular shape to obtain a rectangular embellishment. In the formation pattern A, theshrinkable yarns Fig. 8 . Therefore, basically the embellishment elements are formed obliquely in accordance with a resultant force of the force of shrinkage of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 and the force of shrinkage of theshrinkable weft yarn 22. However, continuously positioning weaves corresponding to the formation pattern A in the base weave as shown inFig. 13 results in the formation of embellishment elements along the direction in which the weaves are positioned. A certain weave corresponding to the formation pattern A shrinks to form an embellishment element that extends along the direction of another adjacent weave (a weave corresponding to the formation pattern A). For convenience, the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern A are referred to as "weaves(A)" hereinafter. - In a case where the weaves (A) are arranged vertically, the weaves(A) shrink both vertically and horizontally. In this case, the vertical
shrinkable warp yarn 21 extends in a continuous manner, has a way out so to speak, and therefore does not shrink much. On the other hand, the horizontalshrinkable weft yarn 22 is not related directly to theshrinkable weft yarn 22 of another adjacent vertical weave(A), and therefore shrink significantly almost as expected. Therefore, even by simply arranging vertically the weaves(A) for forming the oblique embellishment elements, the weaves(A) can be shrunk horizontally, resulting in a vertical embellishment. - The same applies to when arranging the weaves (A) horizontally. In each of the horizontally arranged weaves(A), the
shrinkable weft yarn 22 has a way out and therefore does not shrink much. Theshrinkable warp yarn 21, on the other hand, shrinks significantly almost as expected. Therefore, even by simply arranging the weaves(A) horizontally, the weaves(A) can be shrunk vertically, resulting in a horizontal embellishment. - Even by simply arranging the weaves(A) corresponding to the oblique embellishment elements into a rectangular shape, a rectangular embellishment can be generated. However, because the vertical sides slightly shrink horizontally while the horizontal sides slightly shrink vertically, the embellishment might lack clarity. In spite of its lack of clarity, the rectangular embellishment can also be said to exert a new design effect by itself.
- In
Fig. 13(b) , the weaves(A) are arranged into a triangular shape. Therefore, each of the weaves(A) shrinks in such a manner as to generate an embellishment element along the direction of the other adjacent weave(A). InFig. 13(c) , the weaves(A) are arranged into a circular shape. Therefore, each of the weaves (A) shrinks in such a manner as to generate an embellishment element along the direction of the other adjacent weave(A). - The present example configured as described above also provides the same operational effects as the first example. The present example can also obtain any shapes of embellishments only by using the formation pattern A used for forming an oblique embellishment element.
- A third example is now described with reference to
Fig. 14 . The first example has described obtaining any shapes of embellishments by using the three types of formation patterns A to C. The second example has described obtaining any shapes of embellishments by using the formation pattern A alone. The third example (the present example) obtains any shapes of embellishments by using more formation patterns. - In the present example, as shown in
Fig. 14 , in order to form a vertical (Y-direction) embellishment, weaves corresponding to the formation pattern B are arranged vertically. The weaves corresponding to the formation pattern B are referred to as "weaves(B)." As explained with reference toFig. 9 , the weaves(B) each have only thesecond leap portion 22J in which theshrinkable weft yarns 22 slide across a predetermined number of strands ofwarp yarns leap portions 21J of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 but do not have theleap portions 22J of theshrinkable weft yarn 22 are each expressed as "warp 0, weft 100." Such expression represents the composition of a leap portion of a weave with a stretchy texture. The numerical values are expressed in percent. A vertical embellishment can be obtained by arranging a plurality of weaves(B) vertically in a continuous manner. - In order to form a horizontal (X-direction) embellishment, weaves corresponding to the formation pattern C are arranged horizontally. The weaves corresponding to the formation pattern C are referred to as "weaves(C)." The weaves(C) each have the
first leap portion 21J in which theshrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over a predetermined number of strands of theweft yarns Fig. 10 . The weaves (C) that only have theleap portions 22J of theshrinkable weft yarn 22 but do not have theleap portions 21J of theshrinkable warp yarn 21 are each expressed as "warp 100, weft 0." A horizontal embellishment can be obtained by arranging a plurality of weaves(C) horizontally in a continuous manner. - In an intermediate area between the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, the weaves(A) are used in which the
vertical leap portions 21J and thehorizontal leap portions 22J are positioned in a dispersed manner in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed. For the purpose of illustration, inFig. 14 , the angle of the direction heading straight up represents a reference angle of 0 degrees, the angle of the right lateral direction is 90 degrees, the angle of the direction heading straight down is 180 degrees, and the angle of the left lateral direction is 270 degrees. - When the range is between an angle greater than 0 degrees (> 0) and an angle less than 90 degrees (< 90), the weaves (A) having both the
vertical leap portions 21J and thehorizontal leap portions 22J are used. In a case where the angle of the direction in which an embellishment is formed is 45 degrees, the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) are (warp 50, weft 50). In the present example, the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) gradually change between (warp 0, weft 100) and (warp 100, weft 0) in accordance with the angle of the direction in which an embellishment is formed. - The compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) may be changed at every predetermined angle of, for example, 1 degree, 5 degrees, 10 degrees, or the like. Alternatively, the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves (A) may be changed with respect to each basic pattern of the base weaves 11, 12. For example, the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) can be changed in the following manner: (
warp 1, weft 99), (warp 2, weft 98), (warp 3, weft 97), (warp 4, weft 96) ... (warp 97, weft 3), (warp 98, weft 2), (warp 99, weft 1). The compositions may be changed more roughly, such as (warp 10, weft 90), (warp 20, weft 80), (warp 30, weft 70). - When the range is between an angle greater than 90 degrees (> 90) and an angle less than 180 degrees (< 180), between an angle greater than 180 degrees (> 180) and an angle less than 270 degrees (< 270), and between an angle greater than 270 degrees (> 270) and an angle less than 0 degrees (< 0 = 360), the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) are gradually changed in the same manner as described above.
- The present example configured as described above provides the same operational effects as the first example. Moreover, in the present example, finer embellishments can be generated because the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves with a stretchy function are changed gradually in a stepwise manner in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed. As described in the first example, the woven
fabric 10 incorporates, as a component thereof, embellishments that emerge when subjected to the specific process. Therefore, even when the compositions of the leap portions are controlled in detail in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed as in the present embodiment, a constant embellishment can be generated promptly, in comparison to forming an embellishment afterwards by mechanically compressing or ironing the woven fabric. - Note that the present invention is not limited to the foregoing examples. Those skilled in the art can make various additions, modifications, and the like within the scope of the present invention. For instance, the types of the shrinkable yarns, the method for shrinking the shrinkable yarns, the method for forming the leap portions, and the like can be changed accordingly. Although the present embodiment has described mixing the shrinkable yarns in a base weave, a stretchy texture composed of the shrinkable yarns may be provided in the base weave in a stacked manner. In addition, the various characteristics described in the scope of claims can be combined, if necessary, in a manner other than as described above.
-
- 1
- Garment
- 5
- Embellishment element
- 10
- Woven fabric
- 10A, 10B, 10C
- Weave
- 11
- Warp yarn
- 12
- Weft yarn
- 21
- Shrinkable warp yarn
- 21J
- Leap portion
- 22
- Shrinkable weft yarn
- 22J
- Leap portion
- 23
- Shrunk portion
- 110
- Design data generating device
- 120
- Automatic weaving machine
Claims (6)
- A single-layer woven fabric (10), comprising:a plurality of strands of warp yarn (11); anda plurality of strands of weft yarn (12) interlaced with the plurality of strands of warp yarn (11), wherein some of the plurality of strands of warp yarn (11) are strands of shrinkable warp yarn (21) that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn (11) when subjected to a specific process,the strands of shrinkable warp yarn (21) have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a first leap portion (21J) where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over, anda plurality of the first leap portions (21J) are positioned in a first predetermined pattern, andsome of the plurality of strands of weft yarn (12) are strands of shrinkable weft yarn (22) that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn (12) when subjected to the specific process,the strands of shrinkable weft yarn (22) have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a second leap portion (22J) where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of warp yarn (11) are leaped over, and a plurality of the second leap portions (22J) are positioned in a second predetermined pattern, andfurther comprising a base weave that is obtained by interlacing the other strands of warp yarn (11) and the other strands of weft yarn (12), characterised in that the first predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of weft yarn (12) leaped over by the other strands of warp yarn (11) in the base weave, andthe second predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of warp yarn (11) leaped over by the other strands of weft yarn (12) in the base weave, andthe first leap portion (21J) is either a front-side first leap portion (21J(1)) passing across the front side of the woven fabric (10) or a rear-side first leap portion (21J(2)) passing across the rear side of the woven fabric (10),the second leap portion (22J) is either a front-side second leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric (10) or a rear-side second leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric (10),the front-side first leap portion (21J(1)) is positioned in a predetermined front-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern,the rear-side first leap portion (21J(2)) is positioned in a predetermined rear-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern,the front-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, andthe rear-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, andthe predetermined front-side first pattern and the predetermined rear-side first pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side first leap portion (21J(1)) and the rear-side first leap portion (21J(2)) are close to each other, andthe predetermined front-side second pattern and the predetermined rear-side second pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side second leap portion and the rear-side second leap portion are close to each other.
- The single-layer woven fabric (10) according to claim 1, wherein the strands of shrinkable warp yarn (21) are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of warp yarn (11) in a third predetermined pattern, and
the strands of shrinkable weft yarn (22) are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of weft yarn (12) in a fourth predetermined pattern. - The single-layer woven fabric (10) according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the strands of shrinkable warp yarn (21) form a constant first shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn (11) when subjected to the specific process, and
the strands of shrinkable weft yarn (22) form a constant second shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn (12) when subjected to the specific process. - The single-layer woven fabric (10) according to
claim 3, wherein
a first fold line portion is formed along a weft direction by arranging a plurality of the first shrunk portions in a continuous manner,
a second fold line portion is formed along a warp direction by arranging a plurality of the second shrunk portions in a continuous manner, and
a third fold line portion is formed along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction by arranging the plurality of first shrunk portions and the plurality of second shrunk portions in a predetermined direction. - The single-layer woven fabric (10) according to claim 4, wherein the first shrunk portions and the second shrunk portions are stretchable in response to external force.
- A method for manufacturing a single-layer woven fabric (10), comprising:positioning, between a plurality of strands of warp yarn (11) and in a first predetermined pattern, shrinkable warp yarn (21) that shrinks more than the other strands of warp yarn (11) when subjected to a specific process, in such a manner as to form at least one first leap portion (21J) where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over; andpositioning, between a plurality of strands of weft yarn (12) and in a second predetermined pattern, shrinkable weft yarn (22) that shrinks more than the other strands of weft yarn (12) when subjected to the specific process, in such a manner as to form at least one second leap portion (22J) where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of warp yarn are leaped over, andthe first predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of weft yarn (12) leaped over by the other strands of warp yarn (11) in the base weave that is obtained by interlacing the other strands of warp (11) yarn and the other strands of weft yarn (12), andthe second predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of warp yarn (11) leaped over by the other strands of weft yarn (12) in the base weave, andthe first leap portion (21J) is either a front-side first leap portion (21J(1)) passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side first leap portion (21J(2)) passing across the rear side of the woven fabric,the second leap portion (22J) is either a front-side second leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side second leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric,the front-side first leap portion (21J(1)) is positioned in a predetermined front-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern,the rear-side first leap portion (21J(2)) is positioned in a predetermined rear-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern,the front-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, andthe rear-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern, andthe predetermined front-side first pattern and the predetermined rear-side first pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side first leap portion (21J(1)) and the rear-side first leap portion (21J(2)) are close to each other, andthe predetermined front-side second pattern and the predetermined rear-side second pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side second leap portion and the rear-side second leap portion are close to each other.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/JP2014/063207 WO2015177837A1 (en) | 2014-05-19 | 2014-05-19 | Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric |
Publications (3)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2998423A1 EP2998423A1 (en) | 2016-03-23 |
EP2998423A4 EP2998423A4 (en) | 2016-11-16 |
EP2998423B1 true EP2998423B1 (en) | 2018-06-13 |
Family
ID=53437892
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP14887712.9A Active EP2998423B1 (en) | 2014-05-19 | 2014-05-19 | Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US20170067190A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2998423B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP5727685B1 (en) |
CN (1) | CN105283592B (en) |
WO (1) | WO2015177837A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP6597109B2 (en) * | 2015-09-18 | 2019-10-30 | トヨタ紡織株式会社 | Piping tape, manufacturing method thereof, and raised mat |
US20180135213A1 (en) * | 2016-11-11 | 2018-05-17 | Nike, Inc. | Woven footwear upper |
WO2018200798A1 (en) * | 2017-04-27 | 2018-11-01 | Google Llc | Connector integration for smart clothing |
EP3615719A4 (en) | 2017-04-28 | 2020-12-30 | Unspun, Inc. | Systems and methods for creating topographical woven fabric |
Family Cites Families (13)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2231388A (en) * | 1938-07-29 | 1941-02-11 | Abraham A Kahil | Fabric |
US2635648A (en) * | 1951-05-25 | 1953-04-21 | Us Rubber Co | Honeycomb fabric |
FR1055169A (en) * | 1952-04-23 | 1954-02-16 | Balouzet | Pinned fabric and its manufacturing process |
US3015148A (en) * | 1958-04-23 | 1962-01-02 | Us Rubber Co | Spacer fabrics and method of making them |
US3553066A (en) * | 1967-09-05 | 1971-01-05 | Burlington Industries Inc | Filled cushion matelasse fabric and method |
JPH01321948A (en) * | 1988-03-15 | 1989-12-27 | Motomikurosu Kogyo Kk | Cushiony fabric |
JP3894909B2 (en) | 2003-04-25 | 2007-03-22 | 株式会社オザキプリーツ | Pleated product manufacturing method |
BE1015508A3 (en) * | 2003-05-08 | 2005-05-03 | Svensson Ludvig Bv | Cloth intended to provide at least one permanent fold and method applied thereby. |
JP2008007879A (en) | 2006-06-28 | 2008-01-17 | Miyake Design Jimusho:Kk | Pleated cloth product-forming cloth and method for producing the pleated cloth product |
CN101307671B (en) * | 2008-07-02 | 2010-09-15 | 游龙 | Conveniently folding window curtain |
JP2011153394A (en) * | 2010-01-28 | 2011-08-11 | Nuno:Kk | Textile fabric, and method for producing the same |
US10221506B2 (en) * | 2010-02-26 | 2019-03-05 | Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. | Method of making woven fabric that performs like a knitted fabric |
CN202064102U (en) * | 2011-03-09 | 2011-12-07 | 陈义勇 | Woven fabric with flashing effect |
-
2014
- 2014-05-19 JP JP2014553378A patent/JP5727685B1/en active Active
- 2014-05-19 US US14/782,299 patent/US20170067190A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2014-05-19 CN CN201480008122.3A patent/CN105283592B/en active Active
- 2014-05-19 WO PCT/JP2014/063207 patent/WO2015177837A1/en active Application Filing
- 2014-05-19 EP EP14887712.9A patent/EP2998423B1/en active Active
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
None * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CN105283592B (en) | 2017-03-08 |
JP5727685B1 (en) | 2015-06-03 |
US20170067190A1 (en) | 2017-03-09 |
JPWO2015177837A1 (en) | 2017-04-20 |
EP2998423A1 (en) | 2016-03-23 |
EP2998423A4 (en) | 2016-11-16 |
CN105283592A (en) | 2016-01-27 |
WO2015177837A1 (en) | 2015-11-26 |
Similar Documents
Publication | Publication Date | Title |
---|---|---|
TWI617709B (en) | Unitary woven fabric construct of multiple zones | |
US6423165B1 (en) | Method of making convexities and/or concavities on cloths of a garment | |
EP2998423B1 (en) | Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric | |
CN106574410B (en) | Three-dimensional fabric | |
GB2195584A (en) | Applying decorative strips to fabric | |
JP2000345417A (en) | Method for forming uneven pattern on fabric of clothing | |
JP2015218426A (en) | Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric | |
JP2011153394A (en) | Textile fabric, and method for producing the same | |
EP3642408B1 (en) | Garment pleating | |
JP5784814B1 (en) | Bulky fabric and its manufacturing method | |
KR101392667B1 (en) | Sewing method for clothing having | |
KR101024088B1 (en) | Down jacket of length quilting type | |
KR101294826B1 (en) | Method for embroidering solid | |
JP2005154988A (en) | Method for producing apparel product | |
JP2000116804A (en) | Sanitary mask |
Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
PUAI | Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012 |
|
17P | Request for examination filed |
Effective date: 20151217 |
|
AK | Designated contracting states |
Kind code of ref document: A1 Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR |
|
AX | Request for extension of the european patent |
Extension state: BA ME |
|
A4 | Supplementary search report drawn up and despatched |
Effective date: 20161014 |
|
RIC1 | Information provided on ipc code assigned before grant |
Ipc: D03D 15/04 20060101AFI20161010BHEP Ipc: D03D 13/00 20060101ALI20161010BHEP Ipc: D03D 15/00 20060101ALI20161010BHEP Ipc: D03D 1/00 20060101ALI20161010BHEP |
|
STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: EXAMINATION IS IN PROGRESS |
|
DAX | Request for extension of the european patent (deleted) | ||
17Q | First examination report despatched |
Effective date: 20170804 |
|
GRAP | Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR1 |
|
STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: GRANT OF PATENT IS INTENDED |
|
INTG | Intention to grant announced |
Effective date: 20180202 |
|
GRAS | Grant fee paid |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR3 |
|
GRAA | (expected) grant |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009210 |
|
STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: THE PATENT HAS BEEN GRANTED |
|
AK | Designated contracting states |
Kind code of ref document: B1 Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: GB Ref legal event code: FG4D |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: CH Ref legal event code: EP Ref country code: AT Ref legal event code: REF Ref document number: 1008624 Country of ref document: AT Kind code of ref document: T Effective date: 20180615 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: IE Ref legal event code: FG4D |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: DE Ref legal event code: R096 Ref document number: 602014027177 Country of ref document: DE |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: NL Ref legal event code: MP Effective date: 20180613 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: LT Ref legal event code: MG4D |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: FI Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: NO Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180913 Ref country code: BG Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180913 Ref country code: SE Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: CY Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: ES Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: LT Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: HR Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: GR Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180914 Ref country code: LV Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: RS Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: AT Ref legal event code: MK05 Ref document number: 1008624 Country of ref document: AT Kind code of ref document: T Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: NL Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: IS Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20181013 Ref country code: CZ Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: AT Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: EE Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: RO Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: PL Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: SK Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: SM Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: DE Ref legal event code: R097 Ref document number: 602014027177 Country of ref document: DE |
|
PLBE | No opposition filed within time limit |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009261 |
|
STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: NO OPPOSITION FILED WITHIN TIME LIMIT |
|
26N | No opposition filed |
Effective date: 20190314 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: DK Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: SI Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: AL Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: CH Ref legal event code: PL |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: CH Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES Effective date: 20190531 Ref country code: MC Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 Ref country code: LI Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES Effective date: 20190531 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: BE Ref legal event code: MM Effective date: 20190531 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: LU Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES Effective date: 20190519 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: TR Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: IE Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES Effective date: 20190519 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: BE Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES Effective date: 20190531 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: PT Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20181015 |
|
REG | Reference to a national code |
Ref country code: DE Ref legal event code: R079 Ref document number: 602014027177 Country of ref document: DE Free format text: PREVIOUS MAIN CLASS: D03D0015040000 Ipc: D03D0015567000 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: HU Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT; INVALID AB INITIO Effective date: 20140519 Ref country code: MT Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PG25 | Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: MK Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT Effective date: 20180613 |
|
PGFP | Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: GB Payment date: 20230328 Year of fee payment: 10 |
|
PGFP | Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: IT Payment date: 20230525 Year of fee payment: 10 Ref country code: FR Payment date: 20230523 Year of fee payment: 10 Ref country code: DE Payment date: 20230530 Year of fee payment: 10 |