JP2008007879A - Pleated cloth product-forming cloth and method for producing the pleated cloth product - Google Patents

Pleated cloth product-forming cloth and method for producing the pleated cloth product Download PDF

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JP2008007879A
JP2008007879A JP2006178635A JP2006178635A JP2008007879A JP 2008007879 A JP2008007879 A JP 2008007879A JP 2006178635 A JP2006178635 A JP 2006178635A JP 2006178635 A JP2006178635 A JP 2006178635A JP 2008007879 A JP2008007879 A JP 2008007879A
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pleat
fabric
formable
pleated
product
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Toshio Fujiwara
敏雄 藤原
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Miyake Design Jimusho KK
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a pleated cloth product-forming cloth capable of pleating beautifully and having an inconspicuous joined line. <P>SOLUTION: This woven fabric is provided by being woven with multiple textures, equipped with a joined part of an upper and a lower layers along the outline of a cloth product and capable of obtaining the cloth product by cutting out along the outline of the cloth. The warp yarn of the woven fabric is a thermoplastic fiber yarn such as a polyester yarn, etc., and in a length region L<SB>B</SB>of the woven fabric becoming a skirt part in a one-piece like cloth product, the polyester yarn is driven-in as the weft yarn, in a length region L<SB>A</SB>of the woven fabric becoming a jacket part in the one-piece like cloth product, as a weft yarn and as the non-thermoplastic fiber yarn, a silk yarn is driven-in, in a transition region from the region L<SB>B</SB>to region L<SB>A</SB>, the driving-in ratio of the silk is gradually increased and finally the whole amount of the silk yarn is driven-in. Seamless transition from the pleated part to non-pleated part is obtained by gradation like pleats. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2008,JPO&INPIT

Description

この発明はプリーツ付布製品形成用布帛（織布若しくは編布）及びプリーツ付布製品の形成方法に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a fabric for forming a pleated fabric product (woven fabric or knitted fabric) and a method for forming a pleated fabric product.

衣類のプリーツのかけ方として、生地の段階でプリーツ加工したものを裁断し縫製する代わりに、前身頃と後身頃とを縫製後の衣類をプリーツ加工機に導入することで、前身頃と後身頃とに同時にプリーツを付すようにしたものがある。生地の段階でプリーツ加工するものと比較して、縫製したものに前身頃と後身頃を同時に縫製できるため、プリーツ加工効率において優れている（特許文献１）。また、上下一体の衣類を織布若しくは編布から形成する技術については本出願人により提案されたものがある（特許文献２及び３）。
特開平０５−０９３３６４号公報 特開２００１−１１５３５７号公報 特開２００１−１１５３６５号公報 Instead of cutting and sewing the pleated fabric at the fabric stage as a way to pleat clothing, the front and back bodies are introduced into the pleating machine after sewing the front and back bodies. And pleats at the same time. Compared to the pleating process at the fabric stage, the front body and the back body can be sewn at the same time on the sewed material, which is superior in pleating efficiency (Patent Document 1). In addition, there is a technique proposed by the present applicant regarding a technique for forming upper and lower integrated clothing from woven or knitted fabric (Patent Documents 2 and 3).
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 05-093364 JP 2001-115357 A JP 2001-115365 A

従来方法によりワンピースのような上下一体の衣類にプリーツをかける場合、上下にプリーツをかける場合は良いが、片方のみにプリーツをかける場合に上下の継ぎ目（シーム）の部分の処理が困難であり、綺麗なプリーツがかけられなかった。また、袖口、襟元等の複雑に継ぎ目が出て来る部位にも綺麗なプリーツがかかり難い問題があった。この発明はかかる問題点に鑑みてなされたものであり、継ぎ目の目立たない綺麗なプリーツをかけるようにすることにある。   When pleating upper and lower garments such as one piece by conventional methods, it is good to pleat up and down, but when pleating only one side, it is difficult to process the upper and lower seams. I couldn't wear beautiful pleats. In addition, there is a problem that it is difficult to apply beautiful pleats to the parts where the joints are intricately formed such as cuffs and a neck. The present invention has been made in view of such problems, and it is an object of the present invention to apply beautiful pleats that are inconspicuous.

この発明によれば、織布若しくは編布としての布帛はジャカードにて多重組織にて織製若しくは編製され、布製品の輪郭に沿った上下層の接結部を備え、前記接結部を少なくとも一部は残して布帛の輪郭に沿って切り出すことにより布製品を得ることができる。布製品はプリーツ成形性部分とプリーツ非成形性部分とを備え、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布若しくは編布部位における熱可塑性繊維比率はプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布若しくは編布部位における熱可塑性繊維比率より大きくされている。そのため、織布若しくは編布又は織布若しくは編布から切り出された布製品にプリーツをかけることにより、布製品における要プリーツ部分の上下層に同時にプリーツをかけることができ、他方プリーツ成形不要部分には実質的にプリーツがかからないようにすることができる。   According to this invention, the fabric as the woven fabric or the knitted fabric is woven or knitted in a multi-structure with jacquard, and has the upper and lower layer connecting portions along the outline of the fabric product, A fabric product can be obtained by cutting along the contour of the fabric, leaving at least a portion. The fabric product has a pleated formable part and a pleated non-formable part, and the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the woven or knitted part corresponding to the pleated formable part is the woven or knitted part corresponding to the pleated non-formable part. The thermoplastic fiber ratio in is larger. Therefore, by pleating a woven fabric or a knitted fabric or a fabric product cut out from a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, it is possible to pleat the upper and lower layers of the pleated portion of the fabric product at the same time, while the pleated molding is unnecessary. Can be substantially free of pleating.

布帛として織布にて構成した場合においては、熱可塑性繊維比率を縦緯で変化させるため、縦糸は全体をポリエステルのような熱可塑性繊維糸とし、緯糸としてプリーツ成形部分ではポリエステルのような熱可塑性繊維糸を打ち込み、非プリーツ成形部分ではシルクのような非熱可塑性繊維糸を打ち込むことができる。そのため、熱可塑性繊維糸のみのプリーツ成形部分に本来のプリーツがかかり、熱可塑性繊維糸が少ない非プリーツ成形部分にはプリーツが掛からないかプリーツは弱い又は実質的にプリーツがかからない。この場合において、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位からプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位への境界部分においては、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位からプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位に向けて熱可塑性繊維により構成される緯糸の本数割合を徐々に減少させる等の手段により、プリーツ加工部分から非プリーツ加工部分へのグラデーション様のスムースな移行を得ることができる。   When the woven fabric is used as the fabric, the ratio of the thermoplastic fiber is changed by the longitudinal weft. Therefore, the warp is entirely made of thermoplastic fiber such as polyester, and the weft is made of thermoplastic like polyester in the pleated part. Fiber yarns can be driven in, and non-thermoplastic fiber yarns such as silk can be driven in the non-pleated part. Therefore, the original pleat is applied to the pleated part only of the thermoplastic fiber yarn, and the pleat is not applied to the non-pleated part with few thermoplastic fiber yarns, or the pleat is weak or not substantially pleated. In this case, in the boundary part from the woven part corresponding to the pleat formable part to the woven part corresponding to the pleat non-formable part, the woven part corresponding to the pleat formable part is changed to the pleat non-formable part. A gradation-like smooth transition from a pleated part to a non-pleated part can be obtained by means such as gradually decreasing the number of weft yarns composed of thermoplastic fibers toward the corresponding woven fabric part. .

布帛として丸編などの編布にて構成する場合は給糸口として非熱可塑性繊維よりなる糸条を供給する供給する給糸口と熱可塑性繊維よりなる糸条を供給する供給する給糸口とを設け、給糸口からの選択的供給により切り出したとき布製品におけるプリーツ成形部分となる布帛の部位における熱可塑性繊維の割合を切り出したとき布製品におけるプリーツ非成形部分となる布帛の部位における熱可塑性繊維の割合より多くするような編製構造とする。これにより、布製品における要プリーツ部分にプリーツをかけることができ、他方プリーツ成形不要部分には実質的にプリーツがかからないようにすることができる。   When the fabric is constituted by a knitted fabric such as a circular knitting, a yarn feeder for supplying yarn made of non-thermoplastic fibers and a yarn feeder for supplying yarn made of thermoplastic fibers are provided as yarn feeders. When the ratio of the thermoplastic fiber in the cloth part that becomes the pleated part in the cloth product when cut out by selective supply from the yarn feeder is cut out, the thermoplastic fiber in the part of the fabric that becomes the pleat non-molded part in the cloth product The knitting structure should be larger than the ratio. As a result, pleats can be applied to the pleated portions of the fabric product, while the pleat forming unnecessary portions can be substantially not pleated.

この発明では織布若しくは編布における布製品の輪郭部分に熱可塑性繊維を多く含んだ部分と、熱可塑性繊維が少ないか含まない部分とを設けることで、実質的に継ぎ目のないプリーツ成形部分とプリーツ非成形部分との移行状態を得ることができる。   In the present invention, a pleated part that is substantially seamless by providing a part containing a large amount of thermoplastic fiber and a part containing little or no thermoplastic fiber in the contour part of the fabric product in the woven or knitted fabric, and A transition state with the pleat non-molded portion can be obtained.

また、本発明によれば、プリーツ成形部分とプリーツ非成形部分との移行状態が得られるため、綺麗なドレープを掛けられるようになる点で優れている。   Further, according to the present invention, since a transition state between the pleated molded portion and the pleated non-molded portion can be obtained, it is excellent in that a beautiful drape can be applied.

図１はこの発明の実施形態としての多重織布における織製パターンを概略的に示しており、織布１０はジャカードにて多重組織にて織製され、布製品としてのノースリーブのワンピースのような衣類は前身頃及び後身頃の輪郭線１２に沿って接結され、接結部を少なくとも一部は残して輪郭線１２に沿って織布１０の切り出しを行うことで、前後の身頃を外周にて接結した衣類を縫製なしに得ることができる。このような無縫製の衣類の形成は出願人と同一の出願人により既に提案されている特開２００１−１１５３５７号公報に開示の技術と同様であり、必要あれば同公報の記載を参照されたい。図１において、織布の長さＬは衣類の一つの輪郭部分１２を有した織布の繰り返し部分を示しており、織布の長さ方向沿ってこのような輪郭部分１２が繰り返し形成される。   FIG. 1 schematically shows a woven pattern in a multi-woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. A woven fabric 10 is woven in a multi-structure with jacquard and looks like a sleeveless dress as a fabric product. Garments are connected along the contour line 12 of the front and back bodies, and the woven fabric 10 is cut out along the contour line 12 while leaving at least a part of the connection part, so that the front and rear body parts are It is possible to obtain clothing that has been connected by using a sewing method without sewing. The formation of such a non-sewn garment is the same as the technique disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-115357 already proposed by the same applicant as the applicant, and if necessary, refer to the description of the same publication. . In FIG. 1, the length L of the woven fabric indicates a repeated portion of the woven fabric having one contour portion 12 of the garment, and the contour portion 12 is repeatedly formed along the length of the woven fabric. .

図２は織布１０から切り出すべきノースリーブのワンピース様の衣類の１区画１２を含む長さ部分Ｌを拡大して示しており、切り出したとき衣類の前身頃となる上下面は衣類の首12-1及び袖12-2及び裾12-3以外の肩及び両脇の部位12A, 12Bでは上下層が接結されており、身頃となる上下層10-1, 10-2は図３のように分離され、その間は空洞となっている。そして、この実施形態では織布１０における衣類となる以外の地の部分10-3は図３のように上下は分離しておらず１重組織となっている。上下層の接結線12A, 12Bは１重組織と２重（多重）組織との境界線で、一種の織製パターンであるが、この織製パターン（折柄）は織布の実質的に全幅にわたる大柄のものであり、図１の織布の織製のためには織布の実質的全幅で綜絖の独立制御の必要があり、ジャカードの採用が必須となる。   FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of a length portion L including a section 12 of a sleeveless one-piece-like garment to be cut out from the woven fabric 10, and the upper and lower surfaces that become the front body of the garment when cut out are the neck 12- of the garment. The upper and lower layers are connected at the shoulders 12A and 12B other than 1 and the sleeve 12-2 and the hem 12-3, and the upper and lower layers 10-1 and 10-2 as the body are as shown in FIG. They are separated, and in the meantime, they are hollow. In this embodiment, the portion 10-3 of the ground other than the garment 10 in the woven fabric 10 has a single structure as shown in FIG. The upper and lower layers of connecting lines 12A and 12B are the boundary line between the single structure and the double (multiple) structure, and are a kind of woven pattern, but this woven pattern (folded pattern) is substantially the full width of the woven fabric. In order to weave the woven fabric of FIG. 1, it is necessary to independently control the wrinkles over substantially the entire width of the woven fabric, and the use of jacquard is essential.

図２の破線１４は織布１０からの衣類の切り出しラインであり、衣類の輪郭線の幾分外側に位置しているため、切り出した状態で肩及び両脇の接結部12A, 12Bは残っているため上下の身頃（上下層10-1, 10-2）は一重組織部分10-3にて接結され、襟12-1及び袖12-2及び裾12-3では上下層10-1, 10-2は分離された一体型の衣類を得ることができ、このような、織布からの切り出しによる衣類の形成技術は本出願人と同一出願人になる特開２００１−１１５３５７号公報に開示された技術と同様であり、必要あれば同公報の記載を参照れたい。   The broken line 14 in FIG. 2 is a garment cut-out line from the woven fabric 10 and is located somewhat outside the outline of the garment, so that the shoulders and the connecting portions 12A and 12B on both sides remain in the cut-out state. Therefore, the upper and lower body parts (upper and lower layers 10-1 and 10-2) are connected by a single tissue portion 10-3, and the upper and lower layers 10-1 at the collar 12-1, sleeve 12-2, and hem 12-3 , 10-2 can obtain a separate monolithic garment, and a technique for forming such a garment by cutting out from a woven fabric is disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-115357, which is the same applicant as the present applicant. It is the same as the disclosed technique, and if necessary, refer to the description of the publication.

次に、この発明のプリーツ加工を実現する織布１０の織製構造について説明すると、図２について既に説明のように織布１０から切り出される衣類は上衣部分とスカート部分が一体のワンピース様であり、プリーツ加工はスカート部分にのみ掛け、上衣部分にはプリーツ部分を掛けないものとする。即ち、図２の織布において、ワンピース様の衣類に相当する織布１０の繰り返し部分の長さはＬとしたとき、プリーツを掛けない上衣部分（プリーツ非成形性部分）となる長さはＬＡにて表され、プリーツを掛けるスカート部分（プリーツ成形性部分）となる長さはＬＢにて表されるものとする。この実施形態においては織布１０の縦糸は実質的に全織幅Ｗに亘ってポリエステルなどの熱可塑性繊維糸を使用している。他方、緯糸については、プリーツ成形性部分であるスカート部分となる長さＬＢの部位についてはポリエステルなどの熱可塑性繊維糸が打ち込まれるが、プリーツ非成形部分である上衣部分となる長さＬＡの部位については、シルクなどの非熱可塑性繊維糸の打ち込みが行われる。そして、プリーツ非成形性部分である上衣部分となる長さＬＡの部位における、プリーツ成形性部分であるスカート部分となる長さＬＢの部位との境界域の長さＬＡ´の領域についてはプリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位ＬＢから離間するに従って（プリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位ＬＡに接近するに従って）、シルク糸の打ち込み割合が増加し（ポリエステル糸の打ち込み割合が減少し）、最終的には全量シルク糸の打ち込みが行われるようにされる。 Next, the woven structure of the woven fabric 10 that realizes the pleating process of the present invention will be described. As already described with reference to FIG. 2, the garment cut out from the woven fabric 10 has a one-piece shape in which the upper garment portion and the skirt portion are integrated. The pleating process is applied only to the skirt part, and the pleat part is not applied to the upper garment part. That is, in the woven fabric of FIG. 2, when the length of the repeated portion of the woven fabric 10 corresponding to the one-piece-like garment is L, the length of the upper garment portion (pleat non-formable portion) that is not pleated is L. is expressed by a, the skirt (pleated forming moiety) and a length multiplying the pleats of which is represented by L B. In this embodiment, the warp yarn of the woven fabric 10 uses a thermoplastic fiber yarn such as polyester over substantially the entire woven width W. On the other hand, for the weft, although for the site of the length L B of the skirt portion is pleated forming moiety is implanted thermoplastic fiber yarns such as polyester, length L A of the upper garment portion is pleated unformed portions For this part, a non-thermoplastic fiber yarn such as silk is driven. Then, at the site of a length L A of the upper garment portion is pleated unformed moiety, the region of the length L A 'borderline between sites length L B of the skirt portion is pleated forming moiety implantation of (pleated accordance approaches the unshaped moiety woven fabric portion L a corresponding), driving the percentage of silk yarn increases (polyester yarn as the distance from the fabric part L B corresponding to pleat forming moiety The ratio is reduced) and finally the silk thread is driven in full.

このようにして得られた織布１０若しくは織布１０から切り出された衣類はプリーツ加工に付される。即ち、織布１０若しくは布１０から切り出された衣類は前後の身頃を重ねた状態で一対のプリーツ加工ローラに布帛や衣類を通過させる。ワンピース様衣類のスカート部分となる長さ領域ＬＢでは縦緯の糸が全てポリエステル糸などの熱可塑性糸であるため、強いプリーツが掛かるが、ワンピース様衣類の上衣部分となる長さ領域ＬＡでは縦糸はポリエステルであるも緯糸がシルクであるためプリーツが掛からないか、掛かっても弱いプリーツとなり、実質的にプリーツはかからないようにすることが可能である。そして、上衣部分となる長さ領域ＬＡにおける、スカート部分となる長さ領域ＬＢとの境界領域ＬＡ´では領域ＬＢから離間するに従って（領域ＬＡに接近するに従って）ポリエステルの打ち込み本数割合が減少（シルクの打ち込み本数割合が増加）し、最終的には緯糸として全てシルク糸を打ち込んでいるため、領域ＬＢから領域ＬＡに向けて徐々にプリーツが弱くなり（グラデーション様のプリーツが得られ）、そのため、プリーツ部分から非プリーツ部分に向けてスムースなプリーツ状態の移行が得られる。この発明によれば、グラデーション様のプリーツにより、プリーツ部分と非プリーツ部分とでシームレスな外観が得られ、ドレープ性からみても綺麗なものを得ることができる。 The woven fabric 10 thus obtained or the garment cut out from the woven fabric 10 is subjected to pleating. That is, the woven cloth 10 or the garment cut out from the cloth 10 passes the cloth and the garment through a pair of pleated rollers in a state where the front and back bodies are overlapped. Because the yarn length region L B in Tatenuki as a skirt portion of the dress-like garment is a thermoplastic yarn such as all polyester yarn, a strong pleat is applied, length field L A where the gown portion of the one-piece-like garment In this case, the warp yarn is polyester, but the weft yarn is silk, so that the pleat is not applied, or even if it is applied, it becomes weak pleat, and it is possible to prevent the pleat from being applied substantially. Then, in the length field L A where the gown portion, the number implantation of polyester (according to approach to the region L A) as the distance from the boundary region L A 'in the region L B of the length field L B of the skirt portion ratio is decreased (end count rate increases silk), since the ultimately by implanting all silk yarn as a weft, region L B gradually pleats is weakened toward the region L a from (gradient-like pleats Therefore, a smooth transition of the pleated state from the pleated portion toward the non-pleated portion can be obtained. According to the present invention, the gradation-like pleats can provide a seamless appearance between the pleated portion and the non-pleated portion, and a beautiful product can be obtained in terms of drape.

以上説明の実施形態では、布帛を織布にて構成し、縦糸としてはポリエステル糸のような熱可塑性糸を１００％とし、横糸におけるポリエステル糸のような熱可塑性糸の割合を代えることで、所期のグラデーション的プリーツ効果を得ているが、織組織との組合せにより一層の調整が可能である。即ち、綾組織や朱子組織の選定で浮き糸割合が変化するので、組織の選定により表面に出て来る熱可塑性繊維の割合の調節が可能であり、延いてはプリーツ効果を微細に調整することが可能となる。   In the embodiment described above, the fabric is made of woven fabric, the warp yarn is 100% thermoplastic yarn such as polyester yarn, and the ratio of thermoplastic yarn such as polyester yarn in the weft yarn is changed. The gradation pleated effect of the period is obtained, but further adjustment is possible by combination with the woven structure. That is, the ratio of the floating yarn changes depending on the selection of the twill structure or the satin structure, so that the ratio of the thermoplastic fibers coming out on the surface can be adjusted by selecting the structure, and the pleat effect can be finely adjusted. Is possible.

以上は織布を２重組織にて構成し、その上下層を切り出したときの衣類の上下の身頃とした場合における本発明の実施についての説明であるが、本発明は丸編などの編布において２重布帛より衣類を直接切り出す場合においても実現可能である。即ち、この手法は本出願人に係る特開２００１−１１５３６５号公報に記載のようにジャカード式選針機構を備えた丸編機を使用し、ダイヤル針、シリンダ針により内層、外層を別体に編製し、内層と外層とを、衣類の輪郭に沿ってダイヤル針とシリンダ針との双方によって編製することで、衣類の輪郭に沿って接結が行われた編布とし、切断により衣類に切り出すものが提案されている。この方法においても衣類にプリーツに部分的なプリーツをかける必要がある場合があるが、この場合、丸編機において円周方向に複数設置される給糸口を熱可塑性繊維糸条を供給する給糸口と非熱可塑性繊維を供給する給糸口とに分け、これらの給糸口からの糸供給の選択的制御により切断後衣類におけるプリーツ部分となる部位と非プリーツ部位となる部位で熱可塑性繊維糸条に対する非熱可塑性繊維の割合の非を適宜変化させるような編製が可能である。即ち、図２と同様な布帛を丸編機にて編製する場合、特開２００１−１１５３６５号公報に記載されたように、分離された上下層はダイヤル針、シリンダ針により別個に編製し、衣類の輪郭に沿って、上下層はダイヤル針とシリンダ針との双方での編製で接結する。そして、衣類の下側部位となる編布の部位をプリーツ部とした場合、この部位における丸編布を構成する熱可塑性繊維糸条の割合を多くし、残余の非プリーツ部となる部位における丸編布を構成する熱可塑性繊維糸条の割合を減らす。そして、このように得られた編布若しくは編布から切り出された衣類をプリーツ機に通すことで、織布の場合の実施形態と同様に、要プリーツ部位のみに綺麗にプリーツをかけ、またプリーツ部と非プリーツ部との境界部でのグラデーション的なプリーツ効果も得ることも可能である。   The above is a description of the implementation of the present invention in the case where the woven fabric is composed of a double structure and the upper and lower body parts of the garment when the upper and lower layers are cut out, the present invention is a knitted fabric such as a circular knitted fabric This can also be realized in the case where clothing is cut directly from the double fabric. That is, this method uses a circular knitting machine equipped with a jacquard needle selection mechanism as described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2001-115365 related to the present applicant, and separates the inner layer and the outer layer by dial needles and cylinder needles. The inner layer and the outer layer are knitted by both the dial needle and the cylinder needle along the outline of the garment, so that the knitted fabric is connected along the outline of the garment and cut into the garment. What is cut out has been proposed. Even in this method, it may be necessary to partially pleat the pleats on the garment. In this case, a plurality of yarn feeders installed in the circumferential direction in a circular knitting machine are used to supply thermoplastic fiber yarns. And a yarn feeder that supplies non-thermoplastic fibers. By selectively controlling the supply of yarn from these yarn feeders, the pleated part and the non-pleated part of the garment after cutting are subjected to thermoplastic fiber yarns. The knitting can be performed by appropriately changing the non-thermoplastic fiber ratio. That is, when a fabric similar to that shown in FIG. 2 is knitted with a circular knitting machine, the separated upper and lower layers are separately knitted with a dial needle and a cylinder needle as described in JP-A-2001-115365. The upper and lower layers are joined by knitting with both dial needles and cylinder needles. When the knitted fabric part that is the lower part of the garment is a pleated part, the ratio of the thermoplastic fiber yarns constituting the circular knitted fabric in this part is increased, and the round part in the part that becomes the remaining non-pleated part. Reduce the proportion of thermoplastic fiber yarns that make up the knitted fabric. Then, by passing the knitted fabric obtained in this way or the garment cut out from the knitted fabric through a pleating machine, like the embodiment in the case of the woven fabric, the pleated portion is neatly applied only to the necessary pleated portion. It is also possible to obtain a gradation-like pleating effect at the boundary between the part and the non-pleated part.

図１はこの発明の衣類を織り込んだ織布を概略的に示す平面図である。FIG. 1 is a plan view schematically showing a woven fabric in which the garment of the present invention is woven. 図２は図１の織布における１枚の衣類に対応する部位を拡大して示す図である。FIG. 2 is an enlarged view showing a portion corresponding to one piece of clothing in the woven fabric of FIG. 図３は図２のIII−III線に沿った矢視断面図である。3 is a cross-sectional view taken along line III-III in FIG.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

１０…織布
１２…輪郭線
１４…衣類の切り出しライン
ＬＡ…プリーツ非成形性部分の長さ
ＬＢ…プリーツ成形性部分の長さ
Ｗ…全織幅 10 ... Length W ... entire weaving length L B ... pleat formability portion of cut line L A ... pleat unformed portions of fabric 12 ... contour 14 ... Clothing

Claims (8)

ジャカードにて多重組織にて形成され、布製品の輪郭に沿った上下層の接結部を備え、前記接結部を少なくとも一部は残して布帛の輪郭に沿って切り出すことにより布製品を得ることができる布帛であって、布製品はプリーツ成形性部分とプリーツ非成形性部分とを備え、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した布帛部位における熱可塑性繊維比率はプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した布帛部位における熱可塑性繊維比率より大きな値とされているプリーツ付布製品形成用布帛。   A fabric product is formed by jacquard and having a multi-tissue structure, and includes a connecting portion of upper and lower layers along the contour of the fabric product, and the fabric product is cut out along the contour of the fabric leaving at least a part of the connecting portion. A cloth product comprising a pleat formable portion and a pleat non-formable portion, and a thermoplastic fiber ratio in the fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion corresponding to the pleat non-formable portion. A fabric for forming a pleated fabric product, which has a value greater than the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the region. 請求項１に記載の発明において、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した布帛部位からプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した布帛部位への境界部分を備え、前記境界部分においては、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した布帛部位における熱可塑性繊維比率からプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した布帛部位における熱可塑性繊維比率に向けて熱可塑性繊維比率が徐々に減少するようにされるプリーツ付布製品形成用布帛。   The invention according to claim 1, further comprising a boundary portion from a fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion to a fabric portion corresponding to the pleat non-formable portion, wherein the cloth corresponds to the pleat formable portion. A fabric for forming a pleated fabric product, wherein the thermoplastic fiber ratio gradually decreases from the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the region toward the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the fabric region corresponding to the non-moldable portion of the pleat. ジャカードにて多重組織にて織製され、布製品の輪郭に沿った上下層の接結部を備え、前記接結部を少なくとも一部は残して布帛の輪郭に沿って切り出すことにより布製品を得ることができる織布であって、布製品はプリーツ成形性部分とプリーツ非成形性部分とを備え、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位においては縦糸及び緯糸の双方が熱可塑性繊維で構成され、プリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位においては縦糸及び緯糸の少なくとも片方が非熱可塑性繊維で構成されるプリーツ付布製品形成用織布。   A fabric product which is woven in a multi-structure with jacquard and has upper and lower layer connecting portions along the contour of the fabric product, and cut out along the contour of the fabric leaving at least a part of the connecting portion. The fabric product has a pleat formable portion and a pleat non-formable portion, and in the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion, both warp and weft are thermoplastic fibers. A woven fabric for forming a pleated fabric product in which at least one of the warp and the weft is made of non-thermoplastic fibers in the woven portion corresponding to the non-formable portion of the pleat. 請求項３に記載の発明において、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位からプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位への境界部分を備え、前記境界部分においては、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位からプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位に向けて熱可塑性繊維により構成される縦糸及び緯糸の本数割合が徐々に減少するようにされるプリーツ付布製品形成用織布。   The invention according to claim 3, further comprising a boundary portion from the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion to the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat non-formable portion, wherein the boundary portion corresponds to the pleat formable portion. A pleated fabric product-forming woven fabric in which the ratio of the number of warp and weft yarns composed of thermoplastic fibers gradually decreases from the woven fabric portion toward the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleated non-formable portion. プリーツ成形性部分及びプリーツ非成形性部分を備えた布製品の輪郭に沿った上下層の接結部を備えた多重組織の布帛をジャカードにて形成する工程と、布製品の輪郭に沿って接結部は少なくとも一部は残して布製品を切り出す工程と、布製品におけるプリーツ成形性部分にプリーツを付与すべくプリーツ加工を行う工程とを備えたプリーツ付布製品の形成方法において、前記布帛形成工程に際して、布製品におけるプリーツ成形性部分に対応した布帛部位における熱可塑性繊維比率はプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した布帛部位における熱可塑性繊維比率より大きくなるように布帛形成を行うことを特徴とする方法。   Forming a multi-tissue fabric with jacquard joints having upper and lower layer joints along the contour of the fabric product including the pleat formable portion and the pleat non-formable portion, and along the contour of the fabric product. In the method of forming a pleated fabric product, comprising: a step of cutting out the fabric product while leaving at least a part of the connecting portion; and a step of performing pleating to impart pleats to the pleat formable portion of the fabric product. In the forming step, the fabric is formed so that the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion in the fabric product is larger than the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the fabric portion corresponding to the pleat non-formable portion. how to. プリーツ成形性部分及びプリーツ非成形性部分を備えた布製品の輪郭に沿った上下層の接結部を備えた多重組織の織布をジャカードにて織製する工程と、布製品の輪郭に沿って接結部は少なくとも一部は残して布製品を切り出す工程と、布製品におけるプリーツ成形性部分にプリーツを付与すべくプリーツ加工を行う工程とを備えたプリーツ付布製品の形成方法において、前記織製工程に際して、布製品におけるプリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位における熱可塑性繊維比率はプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位における熱可塑性繊維比率より大きくなるように織製を行うことを特徴とする方法。   Weaving a multi-textured woven fabric with joints on the upper and lower layers along the contour of a fabric product having a pleat formable portion and a pleat non-formable portion with the contour of the fabric product In the method of forming a pleated fabric product, comprising a step of cutting out the fabric product while leaving at least a part of the connecting portion, and a step of performing pleating to impart pleat to the pleat formable portion of the fabric product, In the weaving process, weaving is performed so that the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion in the fabric product is larger than the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat non-formable portion. A method characterized by that. 請求項６に記載の発明において、プリーツ成形性部分に対応した織布部位における熱可塑性繊維比率をプリーツ非成形性部分に対応した織布部位における熱可塑性繊維比率より大きくするため、プリーツ成形性部分では熱可塑性繊維糸を緯糸として打ち込み、プリーツ非成形性部分では非熱可塑性繊維糸を緯糸として打ち込むことを特徴とする方法。   In the invention according to claim 6, in order to make the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat formable portion larger than the thermoplastic fiber ratio in the woven fabric portion corresponding to the pleat non-formable portion, In the method, a thermoplastic fiber yarn is driven as a weft, and a non-thermoplastic fiber yarn is driven as a weft in a non-moldable portion of the pleat. 請求項７に記載の発明において、プリーツ成形性部分からプリーツ非成形性部分への境界領域においては緯糸打ち込み本数割合をプリーツ成形性部分からプリーツ非成形性部分に向けて徐々に減少させることを特徴とする方法。   The invention according to claim 7 is characterized in that in the boundary region from the pleat formable portion to the pleat non-formable portion, the ratio of the number of wefts driven is gradually decreased from the pleat formable portion to the pleat non-formable portion. And how to.
JP2006178635A 2006-06-28 2006-06-28 Pleated cloth product-forming cloth and method for producing the pleated cloth product Pending JP2008007879A (en)

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