JP2019044286A - Tailored jacket and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide: a reversibly-tailored jacket without deteriorating fitting comfort and silhouette impression which are important to wear a tailored jacket well; and a manufacturing method thereof.SOLUTION: A fabric used in a tailored jacket is obtained by cutting a circular-knitted woolen fabric into a shape of flat cloth, then being compressed by fulling. The fabric is a double-faced fabric 110 having a first decorative surface 111 and a second decorative surface 112. In a part to be seamed 152, the cut faces 113 are arranged in juxtaposition to be abutted, then are seamed together.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a tailored jacket and a method of making it, and more particularly to a reversible wearable tailored jacket and a method of making it.

2. Description of the Related Art Reversible clothes that can be worn on both the front and back sides are known. Such garments are often sewn together with the front fabric and the back fabric superimposed. (For example, refer to Patent Document 1).
Such reversible clothing can be used on both sides according to the application by changing the design and color of the front and back sides.

JP 2005-10608 gazette

  However, such a two-ply reversible garment, or a reversible garment made of a single piece of fabric that can be worn as an outer surface on both the front and back, like a tailored jacket, It was not suitable for a tailored jacket that was well-made and dressed in fashionable clothes.

  The tailored jacket is a jacket with a collar and is a beautifully tailored outer jacket. Unlike a suit or a blouson, a tailored jacket is a tailored jacket that is worn alone in combination with other items.

  When choosing a tailored jacket, the most important thing is a sense of fit and a silhouette, and the sense of size with the shoulder is very important as the "jacket wears on the shoulder" is said.

  Tailored jackets have various designs, but in recent years a silhouette that fits the shoulder width is the mainstream. Specifically, when wearing a tailored jacket, there is a tendency to prefer a snug fit without wrinkles on the back. In order to wear a tailored jacket like this, fit and a sense of silhouette become important.

However, creating a tailorable jacket that can be worn in a reversible manner causes various problems as described below.
Specifically, in the case where a reversible tailored tailor jacket is made by overlapping the front fabric and the back fabric, when the tailor jacket is worn with one side facing the other side, the other side becomes the rear side. The surface area of the back side is smaller than that of the surface, so that excess cloth may cause wrinkles and / or shape loss.

  For this reason, when wearing with the other side as the front side, the remaining wrinkles become the surface and become surface, so the surfaced wrinkles reduce the feeling of fit and silhouette that are important for dressing the tailored jacket It was the cause of

  The two-ply reversible clothing wrinkles are not bothersome in the case of work clothes and training wear, but in tailored tailor jackets that are more beautifully fit and more important to fit, these wrinkles reduce the fit. Even if it was possible to realize the diversification of the design in the reversible specification, it was not possible to dress the tailored jacket with the tailored jacket in which the wrinkles were surfaced.

  In addition, in order to make a reversible tailored tailored jacket by overlaying the front fabric and the back fabric, there is a problem that when the tailored jacket is worn, a gap between the front fabric and the back fabric occurs. Because of this, the inner fabric fits the wearer's body, but the outer fabric gets out of alignment with the inner fabric, making it difficult to give an important fit to dress up the tailored jacket .

  Also, when making a reversible tailored tailor jacket by overlaying the front fabric and the back fabric, a seam allowance is formed on one side when stitching the fabric and the fabric, and this seam allowance may cause discomfort when worn, There is a problem that reduces the aesthetics.

  To sew cut pieces of cloth, extra cloth is needed to sew. By overlapping and sewing this extra fabric, the fabrics are sewn together, but a seam margin will occur between the seam and the cut edge.

  With this sewing allowance left, when wearing it with the side without a sewing allowance on the front, the sewing allowance will remain on the back, which may lead to discomfort when wearing a tailored jacket where fit is important. Moreover, when it wears with the inner surface of a sewing margin inside, although the discomfort at the time of wear reduces, there existed a problem to which the aesthetics become inferior in order for a sewing margin to surface-ize.

  A method is also conceivable in which the sewing allowance is beautifully treated by folding the sewing allowance into the inside, by making the sewing allowance worse in aesthetics. However, if the seams are folded inwards, the folded portions will overlap and become thicker, which will also lead to discomfort when worn in a tailored jacket where fit is important.

  In addition, to fold the seam and treat it cleanly, you must use foldable fabric. In other words, it is impossible to clean the sewing allowance without using a soft cloth, but it is not possible to wear a tailored jacket without wrinkles and firmly.

  As described above, it was very difficult to produce a tailored jacket that can be worn fashionablely without losing fit and between the silhouettes in a reversible tailored jacket that can be worn on both the front and back sides. .

  The present invention has been made in view of these points, and an object of the present invention is to provide a reversible-made jacket which does not reduce the feeling of fit or silhouette important to wear a tailored jacket, and a method of manufacturing the same. I assume.

  In the present invention, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, in a tailored jacket which can be worn in a reversible manner, it is a fabric in which a circular knitted wool fabric is compressed into a cloth shape by crimping, and a double face fabric provided with a decorative surface on both front and back sides. There is provided a tailored jacket characterized in that it comprises a cut-off surface cut out of a slit and a sewn part sewn in parallel with the cut-off surface.

  As a result, the cut surface is a fabric compressed into a cloth shape by shrinking a circular knitted wool fabric, and the double face fabric provided with the decorative surface on both front and back sides is cut off, and the stitched portion is parallel to the cut surface Sutured.

  Further, in the present invention, in the method of manufacturing a tailored jacket that can be worn in a reversible manner, the fabric is a fabric obtained by compressing a circular knitted wool fabric into a cloth shape by crimped processing, and cutting off a double-faced fabric having a decorative surface on both front and back sides. There is provided a method of manufacturing a tailored jacket, comprising the steps of: and stitching the cut fabrics in parallel.

  As a result, a circular knitted wool fabric is compressed into a cloth shape by a crimp process, the double-faced fabric having a decorative surface on both front and back sides is cut off, and the cut-off cloths are sewn in parallel.

  According to the tailored jacket of the present invention and the method for producing the same, the cut surface is a cloth obtained by compressing a circular knitted wool fabric into a cloth shape by a crimp process, and a double face cloth provided with a decorative surface on both front and back sides Because it is cut off and the sewn part is sewn in parallel on the cutting surface, there is no remaining wrinkles on both front and back, and the sewing margin is not surfaced on both front and back, and the feeling of fit and silhouette important for dressing tailored jacket There is no reduction.

It is a figure showing a tailored jacket concerning this embodiment. It is a figure which shows the fabric for manufacturing a tailored jacket. It is a figure which shows an example of the stitching | suture method of the double-faced fabric cut off. It is a figure which shows the detail of a collar part. It is a figure which shows the detail of a double-sided button and a button hole. It is a figure which shows the detail of the storage bag with which the front body was equipped.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a view showing a tailored jacket according to the present embodiment.
As shown in FIG. 1, the tailored jacket 100 is formed of a double face fabric 110 having a first decorative surface 111 and a second decorative surface 112 on both front and back sides, and these first decorative surface 111 and the second decoration The faces 112 can be worn facing each other.

  In this way, the tailored jacket 100 becomes reversible clothes that can be worn on both the front and back surfaces by changing the design and color of the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112, depending on the application. You can use both sides separately.

In the tailored jacket 100, a plurality of button holes 130 are provided in the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122, which are overlapping portions from the left and right, of the front body 120 covering the front of the body when wearing the tailored jacket 100. It is equipped.

  The tailored jacket 100 may be worn with the first decorative surface 111 facing the front as shown in FIG. 1 (A) and with the second decorative surface 112 facing as the front, as shown in FIG. 1 (B). When the first decorative surface 111 is worn on the front side, when the front body 120 is put together, the upper front becomes the upper front body 121 and the lower becomes the lower front body 122, and the second decorative surface 112 When the front side is worn, the upper front becomes the upper front body 121, and the lower becomes the lower front body 122.

  That is, the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are reversed between the case where the first decorative surface 111 is the front side and the case where the second decorative surface 112 is the front side. Also, depending on whether the wearer of the tailored jacket 100 is a man or a woman, the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 may be switched.

  In addition, the button hole 130 provided in the mating portion of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 is provided with a double-sided button 140 detachably attached, and provided in each of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 With the button holes 130 aligned, the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 can be fastened together with the double-sided button 140. Details of the button hole 130 and the double-sided button 140 will be described later.

  Further, the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112 of the front body 120 of the tailored jacket 100 are provided with a storage bag 150 which is formed into a bag shape for storing accessories and the like. Details of the storage bag 150 will be described later.

  Further, the tailored jacket 100 is provided with a collar 160 which is provided so as to be folded outward at a portion that hits the neck. When the collar portion 160 is worn with the first decorative surface 111 facing the front side, the collar portion 160 is attached so that the front side surface of the collar portion 160 provided to be folded back becomes the first decorative surface 111, and the second decorative surface 112 is front side. When wearing it, the front side surface of the collar part 160 provided by folding | folding is attached so that it may become the 2nd decoration surface 112. As shown in FIG. Details of the collar 160 will be described later.

FIG. 2 is a view showing a fabric for producing a tailored jacket.
As shown in FIG. 2, the double face fabric 110 has a first decorative surface 111 and a second decorative surface 112 on both the front and back sides.

  The double face fabric 110 is made of wool wool-based woolen fabric, and the woolen fabric is formed into a tubular fabric by circular knitting with a spiral continuous loop, and the fabric is cut open and planarized as a crimped carpet. It is a dough compressed into a sheet by processing.

  In this circular knitting process, the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112 are different colors by using a yarn count and yarns of different colors so that the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112 are different. It can be formed.

  In addition, the double-face fabric 110 with a unique texture like felt can be obtained by moistening the double-faced circular-knitted fabric with a special chemical and applying a shrinking process that causes pressure and friction to shrink to cause shrinkage. It can be formed.

  As described above, the yarn of the fabric is compressed unlike the usual cloth by circular knitting of the wool and subjected to a crimp process, so even if the double face fabric 110 is cut, the yarn is cut at the seam portion. Can be difficult to fray.

  For this reason, the double face fabric 110 does not have to be cleaned, and the double face fabric 110 can be sewn together in parallel by cutting off the double face fabric 110, with the cut surfaces being attached.

  Since it is not necessary to provide a sewing allowance by this, it can be sewn in a flat state, and the sewing allowance projected to either the 1st decorative surface 111 of the tailored jacket 100 or the 2nd decorative surface 112 does not surface. The details of affixing cutting surfaces and stitching in parallel will be described later.

  Further, by producing the tailored jacket 100 using the double face fabric 110, it is possible to produce a completely one-piece reversible specification tailored jacket 100. For this reason, it is possible to eliminate the wrinkles and the shape loss that occur on the inside that could not be solved by the reversible specification tailored jacket that has been manufactured by doubling the fabric until now.

  This makes it possible to have a sense of fit and silhouette that are important for dressing a tailored jacket. In addition, even if the tailored jacket is fitted to the wearer's body, there is no sewing allowance and no discomfort is given to the wearer.

FIG. 3 is a view showing an example of a method of sewing a cut double face cloth.
As shown in FIG. 3, the double face fabric 110 has a first decorative surface 111 and a second decorative surface 112 on both the front and back sides.

  Further, the double face fabric 110 is cut along the pattern of each part constituting the tailored jacket 100, and is provided with a cut surface 113 formed without providing a sewing allowance portion.

  In FIG. 3, a part of the tailored jacket 100 cut off for each part is shown, and each part is a double face cloth 110A and a double face cloth 110B. For convenience, the left side in FIG. It is assumed that the dough 110B.

  The double face fabric 110A and the double face fabric 110B are juxtaposed on both sides of the suture line L in which the cut surfaces 113A and 113B of each other are butted, and the two upper threads 114 and 115 and one lower thread 116 are used. Sutured.

  The upper thread 114 forms a zigzag seam on the first decorative surface 111 side of the double face fabric 110A, and the upper thread 115 forms a zigzag seam on the first decorative surface 111 side of the double face fabric 110B.

  In addition, the lower thread 116 forms a seam while passing through a stitched loop of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 on the second decorative surface 112 side of the double face cloth 110A and the double face cloth 110B.

  On the side of the first decorative surface 111 of the double face fabric 110A and the double face fabric 110B, the folding points 114A and 115A on the suture line L side of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 are both located on the suture line L, The folding point 114B and the folding point 115B opposite to the suture line L are provided at regular intervals in the direction orthogonal to the suture line L.

  The lower thread 116 is sewn toward the suturing direction of the suture L via the folding points 114A, 114B, 115A, 115B on the second decorative surface 112 side of the double face fabric 110A and the double face fabric 110B.

  The lower thread 116 repeats the loop of the stitch formed by the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 in the order of the turning points 115B, 115A, 114B, 115A, 115B, 114A, 115B,. Combine with thread 115.

  Therefore, the cutting surface 113A is compressed by the upper yarn 114 and the lower yarn 116 surrounding the double face fabric 110A, and the cutting surface 113B is compressed by the upper yarn 115 and the lower yarn 116 surrounding the double face fabric 110B. The cut surface 113A and the cut surface 113B are sewn while passing through the stitched loop of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115.

  As a result, the double face fabric 110A and the double face fabric 110B are stitched side by side with the cutting surface 113A and the cutting surface 113B in a side-by-side manner, and the double face fabric 110A and the double face in a flat state without forming a projecting seam. The fabric 110B can be sutured.

  As described above, since the double face fabric 110A and the double face fabric 110B can be sewn in a flat state, no protruding seam margin is formed. That is, in the case of the tailored tailor jacket 100 made of a reversible, it is possible to eliminate the discomfort and loss of fit when the sewing margin projects inward, and to eliminate the decrease in estheticity when the sewing margin projects inward. Can.

FIG. 4 is a view showing the details of the collar.
As shown in FIG. 4, the tailored jacket 100 is provided with a collar portion 160 that is provided so as to be folded outward at a portion that hits the neck.

  Since the collar 160 is provided on the outer side, when the tailored jacket 100 is manufactured with the decorative surface of the front body 120 continuous, the front side of the collar 160 and the front side of the front body 120 are different. The decorative surface is surfaced. In this case, only the collar portion 160 has a different decorative surface, and the tailored jacket 100 can not be formed with a uniform design.

  Specifically, when the collar portion 160 is manufactured in a state where the decorative surface of the front body 120 is continuous when the first decorative surface 111 is worn with the front side facing, the collar portion 160 is provided to be folded outward, The second decorative surface 112 of 160 is folded back to be surfaced. In this case, even if the first decorative surface 111 is worn on the front side, the second decorative surface 112 is surfaced only at the collar portion 160 and there is no sense of unity in the design.

  Therefore, the collar portion 160 is cut separately for the front body 120 and the rear body 170, and as shown in FIGS. 14A and 14B, the decorative surface of the front body 120 and the rear body 170 is continuous on one decorative surface Then, it is sewn so that only the collar portion 160 is formed on the same surface as one decorative surface of the front body 120 and the back body 170.

  Specifically, as shown in FIG. 4A, when the front body 120 and the rear body 170 are the first decorative surface 111, the collar 160 is formed so that the second decorative surface 112 of the collar 160 is continuous on the same surface. Is sutured to the front body 120 and the back body 170.

  For this reason, as shown in FIG. 4B, on the second decorative surface 112 side of the front body 120 and the rear body 170, the first decorative surface 111 of the collar 160 is the front body 120 and the second decorative surface 112 of the rear body 170. It will be sewn in the same plane as the

  As a result, since the collar 160 folded back has the same decorative surface as the decorative surface of the front body 120 and the rear body 170, the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112 of the tailored jacket 100 are exchanged and worn. Even, the tailored jacket 100 can be worn with a uniform decorative surface.

  Also, as shown in FIG. 3, the front body 120, the back body 170, and the collar 160 are not overlapped by stitching together in parallel, as shown in FIG. Protruding seams are not surfaced.

  Although FIG. 4 shows the collar 160 in which the upper collar and the lower collar are continuous as an example, the upper collar 120 and the lower collar are cut separately, and the collar 160 in which the collar 160 is sewn in parallel and sewn in parallel is shown in FIG. And can be sewn to the back body 170.

FIG. 5 is a view showing details of the double-sided button and the button hole.
As shown in FIG. 5A, the double-sided button 140 includes two single-sided buttons 141 and a connecting portion 142 that connects the single-sided buttons 141.

  The double-sided button 140 is formed of two single-sided buttons 141 by which a fixed distance between the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 can be held, and a predetermined distance is formed between the two single-sided buttons 141. Furthermore, it is connected by the connection part 142 wound several times so that it may turn between two single-sided buttons 141.

  Further, as shown in FIG. 5B, a plurality of button holes 130 are formed in the joint portion of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122. The upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are connected by aligning the button holes 130 formed on both sides of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 and passing the double-sided button 140 through the two button holes 130. Can.

  Although the diameter of the button hole 130 can be set as appropriate, by making the diameter of the button hole 130 the same as the diameter of the single-sided button 141 of the double-sided button 140, the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are connected by the double-sided button 140. It is possible to prevent the double-sided button 140 from being detached from the button hole 130.

  Further, as shown in FIG. 5C, when the tailored jacket 100 is worn with the first decorative surface 111 on the front side, the left side is the upper front body 121 as viewed from the wearer, and the right side as viewed from the wearer is lower. The front body 122 is formed, and the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fastened by the double-sided button 140.

  Further, as shown in FIG. 5D, when the tailored jacket 100 is worn with the second decorative surface 112 on the front side, the left side becomes the upper front body 121 when viewed from the wearer, and the lower front body in FIG. The part that was about 122 becomes the upper front body part 121. In addition, the lower right body part 122 is the lower front body 122 when viewed from the wearer, and the lower front body 122 is the part which is the upper front body 121 in FIG. 5 (C).

  As described above, with the tailored jacket 100 of the reversible specification, the position of the button is not fixed even if the front and back are exchanged and worn, so that the front body 120 can be fastened by the double-sided button 140 in an appropriate state depending on the wearing state. it can.

  Further, by connecting two single-sided buttons 141 included in the double-sided button 140 with the single-sided buttons 141 aligned with the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112 which are two decorative surfaces included in the tailored jacket 100 by the connecting portion 142 The design of the tailored jacket 100 can be diversified.

FIG. 6 is a view showing details of a storage bag provided on the front body.
As shown in FIG. 6, the tailored jacket 100 can be provided with a storage bag 150 at a desired position on the front body 120 as needed.

The storage bag 150 is formed by forming a storage cloth 151 on the surface of the front body 120 with a sewn portion 152 sewn except for one side of the upper part.
When the storage cloth 151 is sewn to the front body 120, the storage cloth 151 and the front body 120 are sewn together using a thread, but if the storage cloth 151 is sewn to the front body 120 as it is, The thread of the seam is exposed on the back side of the front body 120.

  For example, when the storage cloth 151 is sewn to the first decorative surface 111 side of the tailored jacket 100, the thread of the seam of the stitching portion 152 is exposed to the second decorative surface 112 side. When the front and back surfaces of the tailored jacket 100 are interchanged and worn in a state in which the thread of the seam of the suture portion 152 is exposed to the second decorative surface 112 side, the suture portion that has been exposed until now on the second decorative surface 112 side The 152 threads are exposed on the front side, causing a decrease in aesthetics.

  Therefore, in the tailored jacket 100 of the present invention, by making the position and shape of the storage bag 150 formed on the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112 the same, the exposed suture portion 152 can be minimized. it can.

  Specifically, the shapes of the storage cloth 151 formed on the first decorative surface 111 and the storage cloth 151 formed on the second decorative surface 112 are the same, and the storage cloth is formed on the first decorative surface 111 and the second decorative surface 112. Make one sew 151 the same.

  At the time of sewing, position alignment with the accommodation cloth 151 formed in the first decoration surface 111 and the accommodation cloth 151 formed in the second decoration surface 112 is performed, and two sheets of accommodation in the double face fabric 110 are performed by temporary sewing. The cloth 151 is fixed at the same position, and the two storage cloths 151 are sewn to the double face cloth 110 by lock stitching, and the thread of tacking is removed.

  For the lock-stitching, two sheets of the storage cloth 151 may be sewn to the double face cloth 110 by one stitch, but one sheet is stored from either the first decorative surface 111 side or the second decorative surface 112 side. The cloth 151 is sewn to the double face cloth 110, and one storage cloth 151 is sewn to the double face cloth 110 from the other side along the seam.

  As a result, there is one seam when the containing fabric 151 is sewn to the double face fabric 110, and the extra seam is exposed when viewed from the first decorative surface 111 side or viewed from the second decorative surface 112 side. There is no

  As mentioned above, it is the cloth which compressed the circular knit wool fabric in the cloth shape by the crimp process, cut off the double-faced cloth with the decorative surface on both front and back sides, put the cut-off cloth together and put it in parallel By stitching, no wrinkles remain on both the front and back sides, and the seam allowance is not surfaced on both the front and back sides.

  Therefore, it is possible to manufacture a reversible tailored jacket that can be worn on both the front and back sides without reducing the feeling of fit or silhouette that is important for dressing the tailored jacket.

100 Tailored jacket 110, 110A, 110B Double face fabric 111 First decorative surface 112 Second decorative surface 113, 113A, 113B Cutting surface 114, 115 Upper thread 114A, 114B, 115A, 115B Fold point 116 Lower thread 120 Front body 121 Upper part Front body 122 Lower front body 130 Button hole 140 Double-sided button 141 Single-sided button 142 Connection part 150 Storage bag 151 Storage cloth 152 Suture part 160 Collar part 170 Rear body L Suture wire

JP, 2006-200053, A

Claims (6)

In a tailored jacket that can be worn reversible,
A cut fabric in which a circular knitted wool fabric is compressed into a cloth shape by crimping, and a double face fabric having a decorative surface on both front and back sides is cut;
A suture portion in which the cut surfaces are sewn in parallel;
A tailored jacket characterized by comprising. The circular weave wool fabric is
The tailored jacket according to claim 1, which is a jersey fabric made of a jersey. It has a collar that is folded back to the outside,
The collar is
When one of the double face fabrics is surfaced, the one decorative surface of the collar portion exposed is the same as the one decorative surface of the double face fabric,
The other decorative surface of the collar portion and the other decorative surface of the double face fabric are provided to be the same when the other of the double face fabric is surfaced. Tailored jacket. Button holes provided on the upper front and lower front,
A double-sided button removably attached to the button hole;
The tailored jacket according to claim 1, comprising: Containing bags each having the same shape, on both sides and at the same position of the double-faced fabric,
The tailored jacket according to claim 1, comprising: In the process of making a reversible jacket that can be worn reversible,
Cutting a double-faced cloth having a decorative surface on both the front and back sides, wherein the circularly-knitted woolen fabric is compressed into a cloth shape by a crimp process;
Suturing the cut dough in parallel;
A method of manufacturing a tailored jacket, comprising: