WO2006080027A1

WO2006080027A1 - A seamless garment

Info

Publication number: WO2006080027A1
Application number: PCT/IN2005/000035
Authority: WO
Inventors: Devson Singh Yengkhom
Original assignee: Devson Singh Yengkhom
Priority date: 2005-01-28
Filing date: 2005-01-28
Publication date: 2006-08-03
Also published as: US20090126823A1; CN101142352A; JP2008528821A; EP1856316A1

Abstract

A seamless woven customised garment devoid of any stitching, inter-locking or joining the cut pieces by any means using any type of yarn, for men, women and children’s wear, including designs, patterns and decorations/accessories is the subject matter of the present invention. Judiciously engaging, disengaging and crossing of one or more warp threads at varied levels weave the seamless garments. The invention also claims a weaving machine adaptable for engaging, disengaging and crossing of warps as per pre-designed patterns. It may be noted that in the present invention the warp threads start at warp beam and also ends at warp beam as against in the conventional weaving process warp thread ends at cloth beam.

Description

A SEAMLESS GARMENT

FIELD OF THE INVENTION:

This invention relates to "A Seamless Garment". Particularly, the invention relates to a woven seamless garment. More particularly, the invention relates to a woven seamless garment fitting to the size. Still more particularly, the invention relates to a woven seamless garment ready to use is produced directly. Yet more particularly the invention relates to flat woven seam less garments for men, women, children including and not limited to various shapes and configurations, multicolour designs and decorations such as surface ornamentation, embroidery or other handicraft work or accessories on the garment. Further, the garments are woven using any kind of yarn. Even more particularly, the invention relates to a process for producing such garments. Specifically, cutting of fabric to desired shape and interlocking or stitching or joining of the cut pieces so obtained is eliminated. The process is also capable of simultaneously providing inbuilt lining to the garment. Yet more particularly, the invention also provides a machine adapted to weaving ready to use garments. BACKGROUM) OF THE INVENTION:

Seamless garments are in vouge and the demand for such garments particularly under wears is increasing. Presently these seamless garments available in the market are knitted one. Woven garments are not available. Seamless garment made of tubular material are well known. Additionally one-piece garments particularly seamless under wears are also known and available in the market. Circular knit woollen garments are also known. However, these garments are mostly produced using circular knitting employing lightweight thin yarns. Further, only one yarn is engaged while single rotary knit. The applicant knows of no prior 'art for seamless flat woven body garment fitting to size incorporating various designs, panels and accessories as an integral part of weaving.

Prior art, somewhat relevant to the present invention, known to the inventor relates to US Patent No. 4,956,879 and its divisional application No US 5,058,208. These patents describe garment like child's slipper, having body portion made of sheet material, without seams, having lengthwise opening and closing arrangements. The parts of the garments such as leg portions have lengthwise extending seams to close them. Further the foot portions and sleeves have to be secured in place by stitching to or interlocking with the main body part. US 3,937,039 relates to one-piece circular knit pantyhose having an intermediate panty portion and two integral leg portions formed from a single rotary knit tubular blank using differential tension knit stitches. The entire garment is knitted using thermo-plastic stretch yarn in order to provide desired stretch and shape characteristics. Further the waist opening has to be provided by slitting and fixing elastic band.

US 6,821,294 relates to shaped woven tubular soft-tissue implantable prostheses and a method for manufacturing the same. According to this invention, the diameter, shape and configuration of the tube is monitored simply by gradually changing the number of warps and wefts adopting traditional weaving technique. Engaging and disengaging of warps has to be gradual to avoid holes between contiguous sections. The process cannot be used to provide integral parts of the garment with specific configurations.

UK Patent No. 15,767 discloses the improvement in the machine i.e. weaving looms for selecting and separating warp threads continuously and automatically thereby saving man hours and time. Joseph Marie jacquard had developed and perfected an attachment applicable to power loom ^' enabling weaving any design. Jacquard allows a large degree of control over the movement of the warp threads. Further, the attachment is digitised by punching cards which are brought in contact with the needles that control the movement of the wire that lifts the heddle and thereby control the warp movement.

US 6,000,442 relates to a process and apparatus for weaving fabric with three-dimensional bulging zone by increasing density of the crossing points of the warp and wefts. This is achieved by changing the number of threads and weave pattern. The loom is adapted to draw the selected warps by providing number of individual warp bobbins to draw multiple warp threads. Generally the weaving looms as shown in the figure 1 comprising of:

1. Warp beam (1) is large roller on which all the warp yarns to be used for the cloth are wound parallel to each other. The beam is located at the back of the loom.

2. Harness (2) - It looks like a picture frame holding series of thin vertical wires called heddles (3), operated to form a shed between the warp threads/ yarns for the insertion of weft threads, each heddle is having a hole, normally designated as eye (4), in the middle for threading the warp yarn through. The harness helps in lowering or raising the warp yarns. At least two harnesses are to be provided.

3. Reed (5) is a frame with thin vertical non-movable wires (6) for keeping warp yarns separated for pushing filling yarns (horizontal threads) firmly against finished cloth after each pick or row, in a desired manner.

4. Breast beam located in the front of the loom to wind the woven cloth and creating a tension with the warp beam and.

5. Cloth beam to roll the cloth as it is constructed. Generally the width of the fabric is fixed and weaving is done lengthwise wherein the warp yarn is continuously supplied. Certain modifications have been made to the conventional machines as described hereinbefore for allowing the movement of warp yarns or heddles in isolation. However, the wires in the reeds are non-movable and the warp yarn always ends at the cloth end.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION:

The main object of the present invention is to provide "A Seamless Garment". The other object of the present invention is to provide a woven seamless garment.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven seamless garment fitting to the size.

Yet other object of the present invention is that a woven seamless garment ready to use is produced directly. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide flat woven seam less garments for men, women, children including and not limited to various shapes and configurations, multicolour designs and decorations or accessories on the garment. Further, the garments are woven using any kind of yarn.

Still other object of the present invention is to provide a process for producing such garments. Specifically, the process eliminates cutting of fabric to desired shape and interlocking or stitching or joining of the cut pieces so obtained to produce the garment.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a machine adapted to weaving ready to use garments as herein before described.

The machine is adapted to hold multiple warp beams and draw the selected warp thread(s) by providing number of individual warp bobbins. Additionally, the warp beams as well as individual warp rollers/ bobbins can be moved vertically as well as horizontally. The machine has also been provided with the mechanism to enable individual heddles to work in isolation and independent of each other thereby allowing selectively engaging or disengaging specific warp threads at heddles either manually, mechanically or electrically. Generally, the reed of the conventional machine is a frame holding number of wires. However the reed of the machine of present invention is a rod holding multiple plates with hemisphere of different diameters leaving flexibility for the movement of the individual plate as against the entire movement of the frame in conventional machines for beating up action.

Further the plates are adapted to rotate through 180° in order to bring the filling thread on the

other side of the reed i.e. on the side of woven garment, and maintain uniform desired tension on the warp thread. Further, the machine is adapted to take back to warp beam through same or different reed and harness. There is also provision made to terminate the warp thread selectively at cloth beam end as and when required. Adequate measures are provided for exchanging warp beams, heddles and reed in order to achieve specific shape and configuration. Machine is also provided with additional means to impart ability to keep uniform tension with the warp beam and selectively taking back warp threads to warp beam simultaneously.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS:

Fig.l depicts the parts of the conventional looms

Fig. 2 depicts the parts of the weaving machine of the present invention.

Fig. 3 depicts the details of the warp holder as well as means for returning the warp thread.

Fig. 4 depicts the details of the harness and heddles.

Fig. 5 depicts the details of the reed. Fig. 6 depicts further details of the roller.

Fig. 7 depicts a perspective view of weave pattern

Fig. 8 depicts the details of the cloth beam.

Fig. 9 depicts the details of tubular pattern in which garment is woven .

Fig. 10 depicts the details of the weaving pattern.

STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION:

Accordingly the present invention provides a seamless garment woven in the form of compressed tubular shape, ready to use and is devoid of any stitching, interlocking or joining the cut pieces by any means. hi one of the embodiments of the present invention is that the seamless woven garment is a customised one, fitting to size woven using any type of yarn and provided with various designs, decorations/ ornamentations/accessories such as various conventional design patterns using varied colours, embroidery, appliques, pockets, varied patterns of collars. hi another embodiment of the present invention is that the woven seamless garment could be men's wear, women's wear or children's wear.

Yet another embodiment of the present invention is that the woven seamless garment can be provided with lining of same or different fabric or colour.

In accordance with this invention there is provided a process for weaving such garments comprising engaging one or more than one warp beams to provide desired number of warp bobbins/rollers adaptable to provide desired number of threads/yarns, engaging or disengaging or crossing over the warp yarns at predetermined places depending on the design and shape to be achieved, passing the warp yarn in a regulated controlled manner through the eyes of the heddles provided in the harness, reed and selectively returning back either in same manner or different manner ending at warp beam while holding the finished garment maintaining uniform desired tension with the warp beam and employing conventional wefts mechanism, using a special weaving machine as herein after described.

The garments are woven in a flat compressed tubular manner in a specific folded style, which becomes a shirt, blouse, trousers or any designed customised garment.

The additional warp yarns may be provided at multi layers where the garments are to be provided with specific curves, extra appendages like sleeve, pocket, collar, some ornamentation or lining.

The warp yarns are drawn under regulated pressure and tension using means not restricted to as herein after described. A person skilled in the art may replace such means by any other means giving same effect.

Warp yarns may be exchanged in any manner by adjusting heddles as well as reeds either in isolation or in groups. Raising of the warp thread/ yarn with the help of heddles may also possibly be done for one or more layers simultaneously so that the filling thread at different layers can be passed at the same time engaging multiple filling threads by any means.

The returning of the yarn may be replaced by interlocking the said yarn with the corresponding yarn from another warp.

Individual yarn may also be engaged, disengaged or diverted in accordance with the desired shape at the cloth beam end.

In accordance with this invention there is also provided a weaving machine for weaving seamless garments comprising a mechanism to hold plurality of warp beams if desired, plurality of warp bobbins/ rollers, a draw mechanism adaptable to draw selective warp threads in isolation or in groups at a desired tension and in desired manner, open ended heddles with provision for raising or lowering warp threads adaptable to work at one or more layers simultaneously, multiple circular reeds with two hemisphere of different diameter, adaptable for crossing individual warp threads or group of warp threads and roatating through 180o for bringing filling thread(s) after the reed, cloth beam for holding woven garment maintaining desired uniform tension with warp beam and means for selectively returning the warp threads towards warp beam.

One of the embodiments of the invention is that the plurality of beams is stacked on a rack provided with slots for easy transfer of beams from one place to another place.

Other embodiment of this invention is that the individual rollers/ bobbins are hooked on the beams so as to be able to moved either horizontally or vertically as per requirement for supplying desired warp thread.

Another embodiment of this invention is that the draw off mechanism includes a pair of rollers to draw selective warp thread(s) at predetermined tension and speed.

Yet other embodiment of this invention is that the mechanism for guiding the warp thread to heddles may be such as a pair of plates or rods or reeds so that the thread is able to pass between the two elements of the pair.

Yet another embodiment of this invention is that the heddles are open ended so as to enable to raise or lower the thread with comfort. Raising of the warp thread/ yarn with the help of heddles may also possibly be done for one or more layers simultaneously so that the filling thread at different layers can be passed at the same time engaging multiple filling threads by any means.

Still other embodiment of this invention is that the reeds may comprise of circular plates with two hemispheres of different diameters, the hemisphere with larger diameter capable of

rotating through 180° and capable of moving for exchanging laterally. This gives flexibility

of crossing of woven or unwoven warp threads.

Still another embodiment of this invention is that the desired uniform tension is maintained by holding the woven garment in a pair of roller moving in opposite direction and the upper roller capable of moving side ways.

Further, the means for returning thread may be bobbins or rollers capable of passing thread over the same and get directed towards warp beam. The thread while returning to warp beam may pass in the same reeds and heddles or may adopt different passage.

The invention is further described with the help of the drawings. hi accordance with fig. 1 the warp thread(s) pass through the heddles, reed get matted by filling yarns and the constructed cloth is rolled on the beam. Thus the warp thread starts at warp beam and ends at cloth beam. Further, modifications to the machine helps having plurality of warp bobbins creeled on a creel to provide flexibility in the movement of individual warp thread. The machines are also provided with Jacquard attachment for allowing raising or lowering of warp threads. However, the machines have no flexibility at reed level and mechanism to control the crossing of individual or group of warp threads for achieving desired pattern. Further, to the best of the knowledge of the inventor, no machine has been provided with mechanism for returning the warp thread to warp beam thereby starting and ending at warp beam.

Fig. 2 shows the weaving machine with its elements of the present invention. Plurality of warps bobbins/ rollers lprovide warp threads 2, the mechanism 3 such as rollers that helps drawing warp thread at a regulated tension and mechanism 4 to guide individual warp thread including crossing, to plurality of heddles 5 with eye 6, reed 7, mechanism 9 for holding woven garment at uniform tension, cloth beam 9a and mechanism/ means 10 for returning warp threads selectively.

Fig.3 shows the details of warp holder or means for returning warp threads to warp beams consisting of frame 14, having plurality of rods/warp beams 11, for holding multiple warp bobbins/rollers /hooks 13 for drawing warp thread selectively and in desired direction. Fig. 4 shows details of harness 15 holding series of heddles 16, with eyes 17, and means 18, for raising or lowering individual warp threads/heddles and means 19 to adjust or accommodate the desired number of heddles in the harness. The warp threads are thus engaged or disengaged by moving up or down. It also may be possible to move entire heddle. Raising of the warp thread/ yarn with the help of heddles may also possibly be done for one or more layers simultaneously so that the filling thread at different layers can be passed at the same time engaging multiple filling threads by any means.

Fig 5 shows reed comprising a rod 20, holding number of circular interchangeable parallel panels/plates with hemisphere of different diameter 22, having slit X that is extended as Xl, the said panels/plates are capable of moving through 180° in order to bring the filling thread 23, from heddle side to the other side (woven side) and maintaining uniform desired tension on the warp thread (A). The hemisphere with smaller diameter (X2) remains always in touch with woven garment. Conventional means 22 are provided for accommodating desired number of panels.

Fig. 6 shows the details of multi rollers and the manner in which the warp threads over the rollers move. However this is one of the ways the roller or hook or bobbin may be provided for directing warp thread (24) in desired direction.

Fig. 7 shows the manner in which warp thread (S) (24) is engaged or disengaged as per requirements of the shape.

Fig. 8 shows the details of the cloth beam for holding woven garments. The mechanism basically comprises two rollers 24 & 25, capable of moving in opposite directions for maintaining desired uniform tension. Additionally, the roller 25, is capable of moving side ways.

In Fig. 9, the dotted lines show how the garment is woven in folded condition.

Fig. 10 shows the conventional weaving pattern as well as weaving pattern adopted by the present invention. As may be noted the weaving pattern of the present invention comprises passing multiple warp threads from warps 26, through a pair of rollers 27, for drawing individual threads between the said two rollers at a regulated tension, then passing through a pair of reed 28, wherein the warps can be crossed in a desired manner if required, raising or lowering heddles, followed by drawing threads through heddles 29 with flexibility in raising or lowering individual heddle/warp thread, then passing through second pair of reed pates

(30), wherein one may be able to either cross over woven strips or unwoven threads after second reed for providing designs, and pushing the filling thread (s) after the read plates by rotating the said read plates, holding the woven garment between the rollers at cloth beam end and returning back the selected warps threads to warp end.

The broad technical application of selective engagement and disengagement can be adopted judiciously to produce a ready to use customised garment thereby saving the wastage of cloth reducing man hours and in turn reducing the total cost. The curvatures given while weaving the garment results in value added product.

Adaptability to use any thread including mechanism to produce build-in lining and various panels / accessories of varied nature makes the process user friendly, simple and satisfactory to consumers.

ADVANTAGES:

1) The garment for men, women and children wear are seamless and ready to use.

2) The garments can be made customised, including ornamentation, depending on the choice for pattern and fabric.

3) The garments proved to be saving on cloth, time and money.

Claims

We Claim:

1. A seamless garment woven in the form of compressed tubular shape, ready to use and is devoid of any stitching, interlocking or joining the cut pieces by any means.

2. A seamless garment as claimed in claim 1 is woven garment, that is customised one, fitting to size woven using any type of yarn and provided with various designs, decorations/ ornamentations/accessories such as various conventional design patterns using varied colours, embroidery, appliques, pockets, varied patterns of collars.

3. A seamless garment as claimed in preceeding claim is men's wear, women's wear or children's wear and can be provided with lining of same or different fabric or colour.

4. A process for providing seamless garment as claimed in preceeding claims comprising engaging one or more than one warp beams to provide desired number of warp bobbins/rollers adaptable to provide desired number of threads/yarns, engaging or disengaging or crossing over the warp yarns at predetermined places depending on the design and shape to be achieved, passing the warp yarn in a regulated controlled manner through the eyes of the heddles provided in the harness, reed and selectively returning back either in same manner or different manner ending at warp beam while holding the finished garment maintaining uniform desired tension with the warp beam and employing conventional wefts mechanism, using a special weaving machine as herein after described.

5. A process as claimed in claim 4 wherein the garments are woven in a flat compressed tubular manner in a specific folded style, which becomes a shirt, blouse, trousers or any designed customised garment.

5. A process as claimed in claim 4 and 5 wherein the additional warp yarns are provided at multi layers where the garments are to be provided with specific curves, extra appendages like sleeve, pocket, collar, some ornamentation or lining and the warp yarns are drawn under regulated pressure and tension using means not restricted to as herein after described.

7. A process as claimed in claim 4 to 6 wherein warp yarns may be exchanged in any manner by adjusting heddles as well as reeds either in isolation or in groups.

8. A process as claimed in claim 4 to 7 wherein the returning of the yarn is replaced by interlocking the said yarn with the corresponding yarn from another warp and the individual yarn is also be engaged, disengaged or diverted in accordance with the desired shape at the cloth beam end.

9. A weaving machine for weaving seamless garments comprising a mechanism to hold plurality of warp beams if desired, plurality of warp bobbins/ rollers, a draw mechanism adaptable to draw selective warp threads in isolation or in groups at a desired tension and in desired manner, open ended heddles with provision for raising or lowering warp threads adaptable to work at one or more layers simultaneously, multiple circular reeds with two hemisphere of different diameter, adaptable for crossing individual warp threads or group of warp threads and roatating through 18Oo for bringing filling thread(s) after the reed, cloth beam for holding woven garment maintaining desired uniform tension with warp beam and means for selectively returning the warp threads towards warp beam.

LO. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 wherein the plurality of beams is stacked on a rack provided with slots for easy transfer of beams from one place to another place.

11. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 and 10 wherein the individual rollers/ bobbins are hooked on the beams so as to be able to moved either horizontally or vertically as per requirement for supplying desired warp thread.

12. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 to 11 wherein the draw off mechanism includes a pair of rollers to draw selective warp thread(s) at predetermined tension and speed.

13. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 to 12 wherein the mechanism for guiding the warp thread to heddles may be such as a pair of plates or rods or reeds so that the thread is able to pass between the two elements of the pair.

14. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 to 13 wherein the heddles are open ended so as to enable to raise or lower the thread with comfort. Raising of the warp thread/ yarn with the help of heddles may also possibly be done for one or more layers simultaneously so that the filling thread at different layers can be passed at the same time engaging multiple filling threads by any means.

15. A weaving machine as claimed in claims 9 to 14 wherein the reeds may comprise of circular plates with two hemispheres of different diameters, the hemisphere with

larger diameter capable of rotating through 180° and capable of moving for

exchanging laterally. This gives flexibility of crossing of woven or unwoven warp threads.

16. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 to 15 wherein the desired uniform tension is maintained by holding the woven garment in a pair of roller moving in opposite direction and the upper roller capable of moving side ways.

17. A weaving machine as claimed in claim 9 to 16 wherein the means for returning thread may be bobbins or rollers capable of passing thread over the same and get directed towards warp beam. The thread while returning to warp beam is passed in the same reeds and heddles or may adopt different passage.