WO2023222150A1 - Device and method for producing seamless circular-woven pieces with a variable diameter - Google Patents

Device and method for producing seamless circular-woven pieces with a variable diameter Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023222150A1
WO2023222150A1 PCT/DE2023/100136 DE2023100136W WO2023222150A1 WO 2023222150 A1 WO2023222150 A1 WO 2023222150A1 DE 2023100136 W DE2023100136 W DE 2023100136W WO 2023222150 A1 WO2023222150 A1 WO 2023222150A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
warp
shaft
warp threads
heddle
weaving
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PCT/DE2023/100136
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Tatjana Kanakov
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Tatjana Kanakov
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Publication date
Priority claimed from DE202022102680.7U external-priority patent/DE202022102680U1/en
Application filed by Tatjana Kanakov filed Critical Tatjana Kanakov
Priority to EP23710658.8A priority Critical patent/EP4341473A1/en
Publication of WO2023222150A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023222150A1/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D37/00—Circular looms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D29/00—Hand looms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/02—Tubular fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/06—Fabrics of varying width
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0333—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with tubular portions of variable diameter or distinct axial orientation

Definitions

  • warp threads When weaving in general, warp threads are partly lowered and partly raised using appropriate devices. This creates an opening between spread warp threads, the so-called shed. The shooter slides through this and inserts the weft thread into the shed.
  • Weaving processes also known as weaving processes, refer to the process of producing a woven piece by weaving. Web piece and web object are used interchangeably.
  • warp thread, warp thread group, shaft, heddle and heddle eye is sometimes spoken of in the singular form, this can also mean a plurality of warp threads, warp thread groups, shafts, heddles and heddle eyes.
  • EP 0 145615 discloses a flat weaving process in which the width of the woven fabric is achieved by changing the warp thread spacing in the area of the shed.
  • DE 102013 003 439 A1 discloses a method for producing woven hoses with a variable diameter over any length by continuously raising or lowering the weaving ring while simultaneously changing the diameter of the weaving ring. As a result of the lifting or lowering of the weaving ring, the warp spacing is expanded or compressed while the number of warp threads remains the same.
  • EP 0981660 proposes a weaving machine for producing a fabric of different widths over its length by means of a variable warp thread spacing, the change in diameter being achieved by synchronously with the change in the warp thread spacing special spreader holders, which either only attack on the two edges of the fabric or over the entire Fabric width extends so that they fix the warp thread spacing in the fabric at a predetermined width.
  • the changing distance between the warp threads inevitably changes the impression of the weave, making it appear tight when the warp thread distance is small and looser when the warp thread distance is wide.
  • the warp threads are pulled off the bobbins and then individually guided through the individual elements of the weaving machine. It takes enormous effort to finger the warp threads through the heddle rings.
  • JP 7-238433 discloses a woven tube with a constant number of warp threads, the diameter of which changes over the length as weft threads of different elasticity are inserted.
  • the changeable diameter is determined, but also limited, by the stretchability and elasticity of the weft thread.
  • Such woven tubes are also not very dimensionally stable.
  • the object of the invention is a device and a method with which a tubular fabric, also called a round woven fabric, can be produced in a dimensionally stable manner with a constant distance between warp threads or warp thread groups in shape and width and asymmetrical shapes using a variable number of warp threads or warp thread groups and strands without keeping the fabric wide is.
  • This task is solved by a device and a method with the features of the claims.
  • Fig. 1 shows the device according to the invention, consisting of a frame with a base plate (1), rotatably mounted in a preferred embodiment, and an upper, height-adjustable head plate (2), both connected via supports (3).
  • the warp frame consists of at least three warp beam segments (4), which are detachably connected to the head plate (2) as a closed frame.
  • the warp threads (6) are stretched between the goods frame and the warp frame and are detachably brought into the goods (5) and warp beam segments (4) via plug-in warp hooks (7).
  • the warp hooks (7) are designed in such a way that there is always a constant distance between the warp threads (6), including the warp threads (6) in the transition area to the adjacent warp (4) and fabric beam segments (5).
  • the width of the warp beam (4) and fabric beam segments (5) can be increased or reduced individually and via a Lock the lock (15), preferably using a wing nut.
  • Fig. 2 shows a shaft (8).
  • One or more shafts (8) are detachably hung into the head plate (2) via shaft hooks (9) and can be detachably attached to the support (3).
  • the shaft (8) consists of the shaft frame (10), strands (11) and strand eyes (12).
  • the strands (11) are detachably connected to the shaft frame (10), in a preferred embodiment by means of a lobster clasp.
  • At least one strand eye (12) is provided in each strand (11). This is designed in such a way that one or more warp threads (6) can be fed or removed from the side.
  • warp thread (6) does not have to be fingered through the heddle eye (12) from above or below, but can be added or removed laterally via its recess depending on the design of an interrupted ring.
  • a preferred version is a stranded eye (12) is provided as an interrupted ring in the form of a lobster clasp. This ensures that the warp hook (7), warp thread (6), shaft (8), heald (11), heald eye (12) can be added or removed during the weaving process.
  • Several warp threads (6) can also be grouped in a heddle eye (12), also called a warp thread group. Warp thread groups can also be separated by removing one or more warp threads (6). Warp threads (6) can be completely or partially removed from a strand (11). The weft thread (14) is inserted into the shed using the shuttle (13).
  • a skirt with box pleats hereinafter also referred to as a woven object.
  • warp beam (4) and fabric beam segments (5) are arranged at equal distances between the head plate (2) and foot plate (1) via detachable connecting elements of the supports (3).
  • Warp hooks (7) are releasably hooked into the warp beam segments (4) on the one hand and the fabric beam segments (5) on the other hand, and the warp thread (6) is releasably tensioned over these. Both the warp beam (4) and the fabric beam segment (5) are then secured to the desired width with a lock.
  • one or more shafts (8) can be used.
  • the shaft (8) is detachably connected to the head plate (2); in a preferred embodiment, shaft hooks (9) are used.
  • the warp threads (6) are controlled via the shafts (8):
  • the strands (11) are releasably connected to the shaft frame (10), with the strands (11) being attached to the shaft frame (10) via snap hooks in a preferred embodiment.
  • One or more strand eyes (12) are provided in the strands (11).
  • the warp threads (6) can be inserted laterally into the heddle eyes (12). In the selected plain weave, every second warp thread (6) is guided into a heddle eye (12). The warp threads (6) that are not caught in the heddle eye (12) are so-called free warp threads (6).
  • the shaft frame (10) is now moved towards the support (3), the warp threads (6) caught in the heddle eyes (12) are tensioned in the pulling direction and open the shed.
  • the shed lies in front of or behind the free warp threads (6), so that an alternately inserted weft thread (14) gradually creates a weaving knot.
  • warp threads (6) are removed from the weaving process (Fig. 4): To do this, the warp thread (6) is pulled over the warp hook (7) on the warp beam segment (4). loosened, the strand (11) is removed from the shaft (8); if necessary, the warp thread (6) must first be removed from the strand eye (12). The warp beam segment (4) is then locked to the new width reduced by the removed warp hook (7).
  • the warp hook (7) is hooked and a warp thread (6) is tensioned between them.
  • another strand (11) is added to the shaft (8) and the warp thread (6), if necessary, is placed in the strand eye (12). It is therefore possible to influence the width of the weaving piece by adding or removing warp thread (6) and heddle (11) from the weaving process.
  • Loose warp threads (6) can be attached to the woven object, for example by gluing, sewing or edging them to the woven object.
  • the device according to the invention can be used to produce woven objects with a 3D effect, for example an inverted fold. The following describes how to make a skirt with a box pleat (Fig-3).
  • warp threads (6) are taken from the weaving process and grouped for the inverted fold (Fig. 5).
  • Fig. 5 three warp threads (6) are stretched over a common warp hook (7) during the weaving process.
  • the strands (11) are also re-sorted. Those who no longer take part in the weaving process are loosened and removed from the shaft (8).
  • Warp threads (6) that are stretched over a common warp hook (7) are referred to as a warp thread group or a group of warp threads.
  • warp threads (6) is alternately guided into the heddle eye (12), the other group of warp threads remains free.
  • warp threads (6) and strands (11) By gradually reorganizing warp threads (6) and strands (11) and removing them from the weaving process in the manner described, you get an inverted fold that tapers upwards.
  • Loose warp threads (6) are fastened, for example sewn, glued or bordered, after the woven object has been removed from the device.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Looms (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a device and a method for producing seamless circular-woven materials. A number of warp threads (6) and heddles (11) which can change during weaving makes it possible to produce a dimensionally stable, asymmetrical tubular fabric without stretching. Provided are at least three warp beam segments (4) and three cloth beam segments (5), which each form a closed frame with respect to one another, wherein the warp threads (6) stretch over the warp-thread hooks (7) releasably fastened in the warp beam segments (4) and cloth beam segments (5). Individual warp threads (6) or groups thereof are connected to the heddle-shaft frame (10) via heddle eyes (12). Depending on the drawing direction of the heddle shaft (8), a weaving shed located in front of or behind the free warp threads (6) is opened, into which a weft thread is alternately inserted and gradually forms a weaving knot. An asymmetrical shape is achieved by warp threads (6) and/or heddles (11) being added or taken away during weaving.

Description

VORRICHTUNG UND VERFAHREN ZUR HERSTELLUNG VON NAHTLOSEN RUNDWEBSTÜCKEN MIT VERÄNDERBAREM DURCHMESSER. DEVICE AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING SEAMLESS CIRCULAR WEAVES WITH A VARIABLE DIAMETER.
Herkömmlicherweise kommen gerade in der Textilindustrie zur Herstellung von Oberteilen, Röcken und Hosen flachgewebte Stoffe zum Einsatz, die zum gewünschten Textil zugeschnitten, gelegt und vernäht werden, einhergehend mit jeweiligen Arbeitsschritten. Durch das Vernähen überlappender Stoffe wird nicht nur eine Naht sichtbar, auch tragen sie infolge des in der Naht doppelt gelegten Webstoffes mehr oder weniger deutlich auf. Traditionally, flat-woven fabrics are used in the textile industry to produce tops, skirts and trousers, which are cut, laid and sewn into the desired textile, along with the respective work steps. By sewing overlapping fabrics, not only does a seam become visible, but they also appear more or less noticeable due to the woven fabric being doubled in the seam.
Beim Weben allgemein werden Kettfäden durch entsprechende Vorrichtungen zum Teil gesenkt, zum Teil angehoben. Dadurch entsteht zwischen gespreizten Kettfäden eine Öffnung, das sogenannte Webfach. Durch dieses gleitet der Schütze und trägt den Schussfaden in das Webfach ein. Durch das abwechselnde Heben und Senken der Kettfäden und entsprechendes Einschießen des Schussfadens, Weben genannt, entstehen Fadenkreuzungen, auch als Webverknotung bezeichnet. Webverfahren, auch Webprozess genannt, stehen für den Herstellungsvorgang eines Webstücks durch Weben. Webstück und Webobjekt werden gleichbedeutend verwendet. Wenn zuweilen in dieser Anmeldung von Kettfaden, Kettfadengruppe, Schaft, Litze und Litzenauge in der Singularform gesprochen wird, so kann damit auch eine Mehrzahl von Kettfäden, Kettfadengruppen, Schäften, Litzen und Litzenaugen gemeint sein. When weaving in general, warp threads are partly lowered and partly raised using appropriate devices. This creates an opening between spread warp threads, the so-called shed. The shooter slides through this and inserts the weft thread into the shed. The alternating raising and lowering of the warp threads and the corresponding insertion of the weft thread, called weaving, creates thread crossings, also known as weaving knots. Weaving processes, also known as weaving processes, refer to the process of producing a woven piece by weaving. Web piece and web object are used interchangeably. If in this application the term warp thread, warp thread group, shaft, heddle and heddle eye is sometimes spoken of in the singular form, this can also mean a plurality of warp threads, warp thread groups, shafts, heddles and heddle eyes.
Beim herkömmlichen nahtlosen Rundwebverfahren werden zwei Gewebeschichten übereinanderliegend hergestellt, wobei der Schussfaden ungeschnitten abwechselnd eine obere und eine untere Gewebelage abbindet und somit keine Nahtstelle am Umfang des Gewebeschlauches entsteht, EP 0981660. In the conventional seamless circular weaving process, two fabric layers are produced one on top of the other, with the uncut weft thread alternately binding an upper and a lower fabric layer and thus no seam is created on the circumference of the fabric tube, EP 0981660.
EP 0 145615 offenbart ein Flachwebverfahren, bei dem die Breite des Webstoffes durch eine Änderung des Kettfadenabstandes im Bereich des Webfaches erreicht wird. EP 0 145615 discloses a flat weaving process in which the width of the woven fabric is achieved by changing the warp thread spacing in the area of the shed.
DE 102013 003 439 Al offenbart ein Verfahren zur Herstellung gewebter Schläuche mit variablem Durchmesser über eine beliebige Länge durch ein kontinuierliches Heben oder Senken des Webringes bei gleichzeitiger Durchmesseränderung des Webringes. Infolge des Hebens bzw. Senkens des Webringes wird bei gleichbleibender Anzahl Kettfäden der Kettenabstand gespreizt bzw. verdichtet.DE 102013 003 439 A1 discloses a method for producing woven hoses with a variable diameter over any length by continuously raising or lowering the weaving ring while simultaneously changing the diameter of the weaving ring. As a result of the lifting or lowering of the weaving ring, the warp spacing is expanded or compressed while the number of warp threads remains the same.
Durch die Verdichtung oder Spreizung der Kettfäden bei konstanter Gesamtanzahl der Ketten wird eine Möglichkeit der Veränderung der Gewebebreite erreicht. Dadurch ändert sich zwar die Gewebebreite und damit gegebenenfalls der Durchmesser eines gewebten oder eines so flachgewebten und zu einem Hohlraum vernähten Schlauches. Spreizungen wie auch Verdichtungen sind aber wenig stabil und gehen oftmals beim Weben wieder verloren. Bei der Herstellung von Geweben mit sich ändernder Breite hängt die engste Einschnürung von der größtmöglichen Kettendichte ab. Bei der Spreizung der Kettfäden besteht das Problem, dass sich diese nicht gleichmäßig über die aufgespreizte Gewebebreite verteilen. By condensing or spreading the warp threads while keeping the total number of warps constant, it is possible to change the width of the fabric. This changes the width of the fabric and thus possibly the diameter of a woven tube or a tube that is flat-woven and sewn into a cavity. However, spreading and condensing are not very stable and are often lost during weaving. When producing fabrics of varying width, the tightest constriction depends on the greatest possible warp density. The problem with spreading the warp threads is that they are not evenly distributed over the spread width of the fabric.
EP 0981660 schlägt eine Webmaschine zur Herstellung eines über seine Länge unterschiedlich breiten Gewebes durch einen veränderbaren Kettfadenabstand vor, wobei die Änderung des Durchmessers erreicht wird, indem synchron mit der Änderung des Kettfadenabstandes spezielle Breithalter, die entweder nur an den beiden Geweberändern angreifen oder über die gesamte Gewebebreite erstreckt wirksam werden, so dass diese den Kettfadenabstand in vorbestimmter Breite im Gewebe fixieren. Der veränderliche Abstand der Kettfäden verändert jedoch unweigerlich den Eindruck des Webbildes, lässt dieses bei geringem Kettfadenabstand dicht, bei weitem Kettfadenabstand lockerer erscheinen. Die Kettfäden werden von den Spulen abgezogen und sodann individuell durch die einzelnen Elemente der Webmaschine geführt. Es bedeutet enormen Aufwand, die Kettfäden durch die Litzenringe zu fingern. EP 0981660 proposes a weaving machine for producing a fabric of different widths over its length by means of a variable warp thread spacing, the change in diameter being achieved by synchronously with the change in the warp thread spacing special spreader holders, which either only attack on the two edges of the fabric or over the entire Fabric width extends so that they fix the warp thread spacing in the fabric at a predetermined width. However, the changing distance between the warp threads inevitably changes the impression of the weave, making it appear tight when the warp thread distance is small and looser when the warp thread distance is wide. The warp threads are pulled off the bobbins and then individually guided through the individual elements of the weaving machine. It takes enormous effort to finger the warp threads through the heddle rings.
JP 7-238433 offenbart einen gewebten Schlauch mit gleichbleibender Anzahl Kettfäden, dessen Durchmesser sich über die Länge dadurch ändert, dass Schussfäden unterschiedlicher Elastizität eingetragen werden. Der veränderbare Durchmesser wird damit durch die Dehnbarkeit und Elastizität des Schussfadens vorgegeben, aber auch begrenzt. Solche Webschläuche sind ebenfalls wenig formstabil. JP 7-238433 discloses a woven tube with a constant number of warp threads, the diameter of which changes over the length as weft threads of different elasticity are inserted. The changeable diameter is determined, but also limited, by the stretchability and elasticity of the weft thread. Such woven tubes are also not very dimensionally stable.
Aufgabe der Erfindung ist eine Vorrichtung und ein Verfahren, mit der ein Schlauchgewebe, auch Rundwebstoff genannt, mit gleichbleibendem Abstand von Kettfäden bzw. Kettfadengruppen in Form und Breite und asymmetrischer Ausformungen durch eine veränderbare Anzahl Kettfäden bzw. Kettfadengruppen und Litzen ohne Breithaltung des Gewebes formstabil herstellbar ist. Diese Aufgabe wird gelöst durch eine Vorrichtung und ein Verfahren mit den Merkmalen der Ansprüche. The object of the invention is a device and a method with which a tubular fabric, also called a round woven fabric, can be produced in a dimensionally stable manner with a constant distance between warp threads or warp thread groups in shape and width and asymmetrical shapes using a variable number of warp threads or warp thread groups and strands without keeping the fabric wide is. This task is solved by a device and a method with the features of the claims.
Beschreibung: Description:
Fig. 1 zeigt die Vorrichtung nach der Erfindung, bestehend aus einem Gestell mit Fußplatte (1), in bevorzugter Ausführung drehbar gelagert, und oberer, in der Höhe einstellbarer Kopfplatte (2), beide verbunden über Stützen (3). Der Kettrahmen besteht aus mindestens drei Kettbaumsegmenten (4), die zueinander als geschlossener Rahmen lösbar mit der Kopfplatte (2) verbunden sind. Den Kettbaumsegmenten (4) gegenüber liegt ein ebenfalls segmentierter Warenrahmen, befestigt mit der Fußplatte (1), bestehend aus mindestens drei Warenbaumsegmenten (5), die korrespondierend zu den Kettbaumsegmenten (4) zueinander angeordnet ebenfalls einen geschlossenen Rahmen bilden. Fig. 1 shows the device according to the invention, consisting of a frame with a base plate (1), rotatably mounted in a preferred embodiment, and an upper, height-adjustable head plate (2), both connected via supports (3). The warp frame consists of at least three warp beam segments (4), which are detachably connected to the head plate (2) as a closed frame. Opposite the warp beam segments (4) there is a likewise segmented goods frame, attached to the base plate (1), consisting of at least three goods beam segments (5), which, arranged in relation to the warp beam segments (4), also form a closed frame.
Zwischen Warenrahmen und Kettrahmen werden die Kettfäden (6) gespannt, die über steckbare Ketthaken (7) lösbar in die Waren- (5) und Kettbaumsegmente (4) verbracht werden. Die Ketthaken (7) sind so ausgebildet, dass zwischen den Kettfäden (6), auch den Kettfäden (6) im Übergangsbereich zu den benachbarten Kett- (4) und Warenbaumsegmente (5), stets ein gleichbleibender Abstand besteht. Je nach Anzahl Ketthaken (7), die im jeweiligen Kettbaum- (4) und Warenbaumsegment (5) aufgenommen werden, lassen sich die Kettbaum- (4) und Warenbaumsegmente (5) in ihrer Breite jeweils für sich genommen vergrößern oder verkleinern und über eine Arretierung (15), in bevorzugter Ausführung durch eine Flügelmutter, feststellen. The warp threads (6) are stretched between the goods frame and the warp frame and are detachably brought into the goods (5) and warp beam segments (4) via plug-in warp hooks (7). The warp hooks (7) are designed in such a way that there is always a constant distance between the warp threads (6), including the warp threads (6) in the transition area to the adjacent warp (4) and fabric beam segments (5). Depending on the number of warp hooks (7) that are accommodated in the respective warp beam (4) and fabric beam segment (5), the width of the warp beam (4) and fabric beam segments (5) can be increased or reduced individually and via a Lock the lock (15), preferably using a wing nut.
Fig. 2 zeigt einen Schaft (8). Ein oder mehrere Schäfte (8) werden lösbar über Schafthaken (9) in die Kopfplatte (2) gehängt und können lösbar an der Stütze (3) befestigt werden. Der Schaft (8) besteht aus dem Schaftrahmen (10), aus Litzen (11) und Litzenaugen (12). Die Litzen (11) sind lösbar mit dem Schaftrahmen (10) verbunden, in bevorzugter Ausführung mittels eines Karabinerverschlusses. In jeder Litze (11) ist mindestens ein Litzenauge (12) vorgesehen. Dieses ist so ausgestaltet, dass ein oder mehrere Kettfäden (6) diesem seitlich zugeführt oder entnommen werden können. Seitlich meint, dass der Kettfaden (6) nicht von oben oder unten durch das Litzenauge (12) gefingert werden muss, sondern entsprechend der Ausbildung einem unterbrochenen Ring über dessen Aussparung seitlich hinzugefügt oder entnommen werden kann. In bevorzugter Ausführung ist ein Litzenauge (12) als unterbrochener Ring in Gestalt eines Karabinerverschlusses vorgesehen. Auf diese Weise ist gewährleistet, dass während des Webvorgangs Ketthaken (7), Kettfaden (6), Schaft (8), Litze (11), Litzenauge (12) hinzugefügt oder entfernt werden können. Auch lassen sich mehrere Kettfäden (6) in einem Litzenauge (12) gruppieren, auch Kettfadengruppe genannt. Ebenso lassen sich Kettfadengruppen durch Herausnahme eines oder mehrerer Kettfäden (6) vereinzeln. Kettfäden (6) können einer Litze (11) ganz oder teilweise entnommen werden. Mit dem Schiffchen (13) wird der Schussfaden (14) in das Webfach eingetragen. Fig. 2 shows a shaft (8). One or more shafts (8) are detachably hung into the head plate (2) via shaft hooks (9) and can be detachably attached to the support (3). The shaft (8) consists of the shaft frame (10), strands (11) and strand eyes (12). The strands (11) are detachably connected to the shaft frame (10), in a preferred embodiment by means of a lobster clasp. At least one strand eye (12) is provided in each strand (11). This is designed in such a way that one or more warp threads (6) can be fed or removed from the side. Lateral means that the warp thread (6) does not have to be fingered through the heddle eye (12) from above or below, but can be added or removed laterally via its recess depending on the design of an interrupted ring. A preferred version is a stranded eye (12) is provided as an interrupted ring in the form of a lobster clasp. This ensures that the warp hook (7), warp thread (6), shaft (8), heald (11), heald eye (12) can be added or removed during the weaving process. Several warp threads (6) can also be grouped in a heddle eye (12), also called a warp thread group. Warp thread groups can also be separated by removing one or more warp threads (6). Warp threads (6) can be completely or partially removed from a strand (11). The weft thread (14) is inserted into the shed using the shuttle (13).
Ausführungsbeispiel: Example:
Die Ausführung der Erfindung wird anhand der Fertigung eines Rocks mit Kellerfalte gezeigt (Fig. 3), im Folgenden auch Webobjekt genannt. The implementation of the invention is shown using the production of a skirt with box pleats (Fig. 3), hereinafter also referred to as a woven object.
Abhängig von der Größe des gewünschten Webobjekts werden Kettbaum- (4) und Warenbaumsegmente (5) über lösbare Verbindungselemente der Stützen (3) in gleichmäßigen Abständen zwischen Kopfplatte (2) und Fußplatte (1) angeordnet. Depending on the size of the desired weaving object, warp beam (4) and fabric beam segments (5) are arranged at equal distances between the head plate (2) and foot plate (1) via detachable connecting elements of the supports (3).
Ketthaken (7) werden in die Kettbaumsegmente (4) einerseits und die Warenbaumsegmente (5) andererseits lösbar eingehakt und der Kettfaden (6) über diese lösbar verspannt. Anschließend wird sowohl Kettbaum- (4) als auch Warenbaumsegment (5) mit einer Arretierung in der gewünschten Breite festgestellt. Je nach Webmuster können ein oder mehrere Schäfte (8) zum Einsatz kommen. Der Schaft (8) ist mit der Kopfplatte (2) lösbar verbunden, in bevorzugter Ausführung kommen Schafthaken (9) zum Einsatz. Über die Schäfte (8) werden die Kettfäden (6) gesteuert: Mit dem Schaftrahmen (10) werden die Litzen (11) lösbar verbunden, wobei in bevorzugter Ausführung die Befestigung der Litzen (11) am Schaftrahmen (10) über Karabinerhaken erfolgt. In den Litzen (11) sind ein oder mehrere Litzenaugen (12) vorgesehen. In die Litzenaugen (12) lassen sich die Kettfäden (6) seitlich einführen. In der gewählten Leinwandbindung wird jeder zweite Kettfaden (6) in ein Litzenauge (12) geführt. Die nicht im Litzenauge (12) gefangenen Kettfäden (6) sind sogenannte freie Kettfäden (6). Wird nun der Schaftrahmen (10) auf die Stütze (3) zubewegt, spannen sich die in den Litzenaugen (12) gefangenen Kettfäden (6) in Zugrichtung und öffnen das Webfach. Je nach Zugrichtung des Schaftes (8) liegt das Webfach vor oder hinter den freien Kettfäden (6), so dass ein abwechselnd eingetragener Schussfaden (14) nach und nach eine Webverknotung beschreibt. Warp hooks (7) are releasably hooked into the warp beam segments (4) on the one hand and the fabric beam segments (5) on the other hand, and the warp thread (6) is releasably tensioned over these. Both the warp beam (4) and the fabric beam segment (5) are then secured to the desired width with a lock. Depending on the weaving pattern, one or more shafts (8) can be used. The shaft (8) is detachably connected to the head plate (2); in a preferred embodiment, shaft hooks (9) are used. The warp threads (6) are controlled via the shafts (8): The strands (11) are releasably connected to the shaft frame (10), with the strands (11) being attached to the shaft frame (10) via snap hooks in a preferred embodiment. One or more strand eyes (12) are provided in the strands (11). The warp threads (6) can be inserted laterally into the heddle eyes (12). In the selected plain weave, every second warp thread (6) is guided into a heddle eye (12). The warp threads (6) that are not caught in the heddle eye (12) are so-called free warp threads (6). If the shaft frame (10) is now moved towards the support (3), the warp threads (6) caught in the heddle eyes (12) are tensioned in the pulling direction and open the shed. Depending on the direction of pull of the shaft (8), the shed lies in front of or behind the free warp threads (6), so that an alternately inserted weft thread (14) gradually creates a weaving knot.
Um einen sich verjüngenden Durchmesser bei gleichbleibendem Abstand der Kettfäden (6) weben zu können, werden Kettfäden (6) aus dem Webprozess herausgenommen (Fig. 4): Dazu wird der Kettfaden (6) über den Ketthaken (7) am Kettbaumsegment (4) gelöst, aus dem Schaft (8) wird die Litze (11) entfernt, gegebenenfalls ist zuvor der Kettfaden (6) dem Litzenauge (12) zu entnehmen. Anschließend wird das Kettbaumsegment (4) auf die neue, um den entnommenen Ketthaken (7) verringerte Breite arretiert. In order to be able to weave a tapering diameter with a constant distance between the warp threads (6), warp threads (6) are removed from the weaving process (Fig. 4): To do this, the warp thread (6) is pulled over the warp hook (7) on the warp beam segment (4). loosened, the strand (11) is removed from the shaft (8); if necessary, the warp thread (6) must first be removed from the strand eye (12). The warp beam segment (4) is then locked to the new width reduced by the removed warp hook (7).
Um den Durchmesser des Webstücks zu vergrößern, verfährt man wie folgt: Zunächst wird der Ketthaken (7) eingehakt und zwischen diesen ein Kettfaden (6) verspannt. Falls gewünscht, wird eine weitere Litze (11) in den Schaft (8) aufgenommen und der Kettfaden (6), falls erforderlich, in das Litzenauge (12) gelegt. So ist es möglich, auf die Breite des Webstücks durch das Hinzufügen bzw. das Herausnehmen von Kettfaden (6) und Litze (11) aus dem Webverfahren Einfluss zu nehmen. Lose Kettfäden (6) können mit dem Webobjekt befestigt werden, z.B. indem sie mit dem Webobjekt verklebt, vernäht oder eingefasst werden. Mit der Vorrichtung nach der Erfindung lassen sich Webobjekte mit einem 3D-Effekt, z.B. einer Kellerfalte, herstellen. Beschrieben wird nachfolgend die Herstellung eines Rocks mit Kellerfalte (Fig- 3). To increase the diameter of the woven piece, proceed as follows: First, the warp hook (7) is hooked and a warp thread (6) is tensioned between them. If desired, another strand (11) is added to the shaft (8) and the warp thread (6), if necessary, is placed in the strand eye (12). It is therefore possible to influence the width of the weaving piece by adding or removing warp thread (6) and heddle (11) from the weaving process. Loose warp threads (6) can be attached to the woven object, for example by gluing, sewing or edging them to the woven object. The device according to the invention can be used to produce woven objects with a 3D effect, for example an inverted fold. The following describes how to make a skirt with a box pleat (Fig-3).
Ausgehend vom Leinwandverfahren, bei dem abwechselnd jeder zweite Kettfaden (6) durch das Litzenauge (12) geführt wird, werden für die Kellerfalte Kettfäden (6) aus dem Webverfahren entnommen und gruppiert (Fig. 5). Im hier gezeigten Beispiel (Fig. 5) werden während des Webverfahrens drei Kettfäden (6) über einen gemeinsamen Ketthaken (7) gespannt. Neben den Kettfäden (6) werden auch die Litzen (11) neu sortiert. Jene, die nicht mehr am Webverfahren teilnehmen, werden gelöst und aus dem Schaft (8) entfernt. Kettfäden (6), die über einen gemeinsamen Ketthaken (7) gespannt sind, werden als Kettfadengruppe oder Gruppe Kettfäden bezeichnet. Abwechselnd wird eine Gruppe Kettfäden (6) in das Litzenauge (12) geführt, die andere Kettfadengruppe bleibt frei. Indem man nach und nach Kettfäden (6) und Litzen (11) neu organisiert und nach der beschriebenen Art aus dem Webverfahren entnimmt, erhält man eine sich nach oben verjüngende Kellerfalte. Lose Kettfäden (6) werden, nachdem das Webobjekt aus der Vorrichtung entnommen wurde, befestigt, z.B. vernäht, verklebt oder eingefasst. Based on the canvas process, in which every second warp thread (6) is alternately passed through the heddle eye (12), warp threads (6) are taken from the weaving process and grouped for the inverted fold (Fig. 5). In the example shown here (Fig. 5), three warp threads (6) are stretched over a common warp hook (7) during the weaving process. In addition to the warp threads (6), the strands (11) are also re-sorted. Those who no longer take part in the weaving process are loosened and removed from the shaft (8). Warp threads (6) that are stretched over a common warp hook (7) are referred to as a warp thread group or a group of warp threads. One group of warp threads (6) is alternately guided into the heddle eye (12), the other group of warp threads remains free. By gradually reorganizing warp threads (6) and strands (11) and removing them from the weaving process in the manner described, you get an inverted fold that tapers upwards. Loose warp threads (6) are fastened, for example sewn, glued or bordered, after the woven object has been removed from the device.
Bezeichnerliste Identifier list
1. Fußplatte 1. Footplate
2. Kopfplatte 2. Headstock
3. Stütze 3. Support
4. Kettbaumsegment4. Warp beam segment
5. Warenbaumsegment5. Commodity tree segment
6. Kettfaden 6. Warp thread
7. Ketthaken 7. Warp hook
8. Schaft 8. Shaft
9. Schafthaken 9. Shank hook
10. Schaftrahmen10. Stock frame
11. Litzen 11. Strands
12. Litzenauge 12. Stranded eye
13. Schiffchen 13. Boat
14. Schussfaden 14. Weft thread
15. Arretierung 15. Locking

Claims

Ansprüche Expectations
1. Vorrichtung zur Herstellung von nahtlosen Rundwebstoffen, bestehend aus Fußplatte (1), Kopfplatte (2), Stützen (3), Kettbaumsegmenten (4) und Warenbaumsegmenten (5), Ketthaken (7) und Schaft (8), bestehend aus Schaftrahmen (10), Litzen (11) und Litzenauge (12), dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens drei Kettbaumsegmente (4) an der Kopfplatte (2) und mindestens drei Warenbaumsegmente (5) an der Fußplatte (1) lösbar befestigt jeweils zueinander einen geschlossenen und in der Breite arretierbaren Rahmen bilden, hieran lösbar Ketthaken (7) befestigt werden können, dass zwischen den Kettfäden (6) stets ein gleichbleibender Abstand besteht, mindestens einem an der Kopfplatte (2) lösbar befestigten Schaft (8), an dessen Schaftrahmen (10) lösbar befestigt Litzen (11) anbringbar sind, wobei in jede Litze (11) mindestens ein einseitig geöffnetes Litzenauge (12) einbringbar ist. 1. Device for producing seamless circular woven fabrics, consisting of base plate (1), head plate (2), supports (3), warp beam segments (4) and fabric beam segments (5), warp hook (7) and shaft (8), consisting of shaft frame ( 10), heddles (11) and heddle eye (12), characterized in that at least three warp beam segments (4) on the head plate (2) and at least three warp beam segments (5) on the base plate (1) are releasably attached to each other in a closed and in form a frame that can be locked in the width, to which warp hooks (7) can be releasably attached, so that there is always a constant distance between the warp threads (6), at least one shaft (8) which is releasably attached to the head plate (2), and to the shaft frame (10) of which Detachably attached strands (11) can be attached, with at least one strand eye (12) open on one side being able to be inserted into each strand (11).
2. Vorrichtung nach Anspruch Nr. 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schaftrahmen (10) lösbar über Schafthaken (9) mit der Kopfplatte verbindbar ist. 2. Device according to claim no. 1, characterized in that the shaft frame (10) can be detachably connected to the head plate via shaft hooks (9).
3. Vorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche Nr. 1 bis Nr. 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fußplatte (1) drehbar gelagert ist. 3. Device according to one of claims No. 1 to No. 2, characterized in that the base plate (1) is rotatably mounted.
4. Vorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche Nr. 1 bis Nr. 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Litze (11) mittels eines Karabinerhakens am Schaftrahmen (10) befestigt wird. 4. Device according to one of claims No. 1 to No. 3, characterized in that the strand (11) is attached to the shaft frame (10) by means of a snap hook.
5. Vorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche Nr. 1 bis Nr. 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Litzenauge (12) aus einem unterbrochenen Ring in Gestalt eines Karabinerhakens besteht. 5. Device according to one of claims No. 1 to No. 4, characterized in that the strand eye (12) consists of an interrupted ring in the form of a snap hook.
6. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Webstücks mit veränderbarem Durchmesser, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zur Vergrößerung des Durchmessers des Webstücks während des Webverfahrens weitere Kettfäden (6) über weitere Ketthaken (7) am Kettbaumsegment (4) befestigt, Schaft (8), Litze (11), Litzenauge (12) hinzugefügt, beziehungsweise zur Verkleinerung des Durchmessers des Webstücks während des Webverfahrens Schaft (8), Litze (11), Litzenauge (12) entfernt, Kettfäden (6) von Ketthaken (7) gelöst, Ketthaken (7) dem Kettbaumsegment (4) entnommen werden können. 6. A method for producing a woven piece with a variable diameter, characterized in that in order to increase the diameter of the woven piece during the weaving process, further warp threads (6) are attached to the warp beam segment (4) via further warp hooks (7), shaft (8), strand (11 ), heddle eye (12) added, or to reduce the diameter of the weaving piece during the weaving process, shaft (8), heddle (11), heddle eye (12) removed, warp threads (6) detached from warp hook (7), warp hook (7) dem Warp beam segment (4) can be removed.
7. Verfahren nach Nr. 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass während des Webverfahrens Kettfäden (6) gruppiert und bestehende Kettfadengruppen durch Herausnahme eines oder mehrerer Kettfäden (6) vereinzelt werden können. 7. Method according to No. 6, characterized in that warp threads (6) are grouped during the weaving process and existing warp thread groups can be separated by removing one or more warp threads (6).
PCT/DE2023/100136 2022-05-16 2023-02-20 Device and method for producing seamless circular-woven pieces with a variable diameter WO2023222150A1 (en)

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DE202022102680.7U DE202022102680U1 (en) 2022-05-16 2022-05-16 Device for the production of seamless circular woven fabrics
DE102022121877.5A DE102022121877B3 (en) 2022-05-16 2022-08-30 DEVICE AND METHOD FOR PRODUCTION OF SEAMLESS CIRCULAR PIECE WITH VARIABLE DIAMETER
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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0145615A1 (en) 1983-11-03 1985-06-19 FAURE-ROUX (société à responsabilité limitée) Process for manufacturing woven tapes with localized tightened parts woven on an automatic sickle loom and device for carrying out this process
JPH07238433A (en) 1994-02-22 1995-09-12 Ashimori Ind Co Ltd Reversible cylindrical fabric having different diameters
EP0981660A1 (en) 1997-05-11 2000-03-01 Alexander Büsgen Fabric with a variable width
JP2001200449A (en) * 2000-01-18 2001-07-27 Torii Tekkosho:Kk Circular loom
US20090126823A1 (en) * 2005-01-28 2009-05-21 Devson Singh Yengkhom Machine for Weaving Seamless Garment, a Process Therefor and Seamless Garment Thus Obtained
DE102013003439A1 (en) 2013-02-25 2014-08-28 Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. Method for producing round woven hose with variable diameter, involves varying diameter of tubular fabric by continuously raising or lowering webrings on circular loom while simultaneously changing diameter of webrings

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0145615A1 (en) 1983-11-03 1985-06-19 FAURE-ROUX (société à responsabilité limitée) Process for manufacturing woven tapes with localized tightened parts woven on an automatic sickle loom and device for carrying out this process
JPH07238433A (en) 1994-02-22 1995-09-12 Ashimori Ind Co Ltd Reversible cylindrical fabric having different diameters
EP0981660A1 (en) 1997-05-11 2000-03-01 Alexander Büsgen Fabric with a variable width
JP2001200449A (en) * 2000-01-18 2001-07-27 Torii Tekkosho:Kk Circular loom
US20090126823A1 (en) * 2005-01-28 2009-05-21 Devson Singh Yengkhom Machine for Weaving Seamless Garment, a Process Therefor and Seamless Garment Thus Obtained
DE102013003439A1 (en) 2013-02-25 2014-08-28 Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. Method for producing round woven hose with variable diameter, involves varying diameter of tubular fabric by continuously raising or lowering webrings on circular loom while simultaneously changing diameter of webrings

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