JP5095274B2 - Elastic warp knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

  TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric having stretch properties, particularly a stretch warp knitted fabric used for various clothing such as women's underwear, and a method for producing the same.

  For example, various clothing such as foundations such as shorts, girdles, bras, bodysuits, lingerie and other underwear such as slips and camisole, sportswear such as swimwear and leotards, and other outerwear have elasticity by warp knitting. Many so-called stretch warp knitted fabrics are used.

  Conventionally, such a stretch warp knitted fabric has a basic ground knitting structure of satin knitting with stitch-shaped yarns and insertion yarns, power net knitting, denvi knitting, tulle knitting or mesh knitting structure. Accordingly, by using elastic yarn for knitting this ground knitting structure, the entire knitted fabric is given elasticity, and jacquard lace patterns such as thick, thin, and hole fabrics with ordinary jacquard rivets are added to it. There is something configured.

  By the way, the conventional stretch warp knitted fabrics generally have elastic stretches inserted into the entire knitted fabric and have substantially uniform stretch properties. When wearing a girdle or a bra made with this stretch warp knitted fabric, the fit is good to some extent, but it is not possible to obtain a partially different tightening force depending on the body shape, The body shape correction function by tightening force was also poor. For this reason, in using the garment or the like, it has been necessary to sew another fabric having elasticity in order to have partially different tightening forces.

  However, sewing different stretch fabrics and partially varying the tightening force has the problem that a step due to the sewing of the other fabrics appears and the appearance of the fabric is significantly reduced. There is also a problem that it becomes hard and uncomfortable and gives the wearer discomfort.

  Therefore, in recent years, various stretch warp knitted fabrics having partially different tightening forces have been proposed (Patent Documents 1 to 4 below).

  For example, Patent Document 1 discloses changing the restoring shrinkage (tightening force) of a knitted fabric by appropriately changing the degree of elongation of an elastic yarn knitted into a chain-knitted wale, that is, a runner length. ing. However, in the case of this document 1, the change in the restoration shrinkage is only a change in the restoration shrinkage due to the stretchable yarn in the knitted fabric warp direction, and there is almost no change in the restoration shrinkage in the knitted fabric width direction. Depending on the application, it is not satisfactory. There is also a problem that the knitting apparatus itself needs to be modified in order to change the elongation of the elastic yarn during knitting.

  Patent Document 2 is a garment composed of a warp knitted fabric having stretch properties in which a ground knitting made of jacquard knitting is composed of inelastic yarns, and further elastic yarns are inserted and / or elastic yarns are knitted, It has been shown that the tightening force is changed by a combination of a change in the jacquard structure and a change in the number of elastic yarns. However, in the case of Document 2, since the tightening force is basically changed by the change of the ground knitting structure, the difference in the change of the tightening force in the knitting fabric warp direction is small. Also, if the number of elastic yarns is changed, the tightening force changes excessively, and it is difficult to produce a tightening force suitable for use, which is not satisfactory. Furthermore, there is a problem that as the elastic yarn increases, the color fastness becomes worse and the color fading easily occurs.

  In the case of Patent Document 3, in a stretchable warp knitted fabric for clothing, a change in the jacquard structure and a change in the number and thickness of elastic yarns that are inserted sideways or knitted by stitch formation Thus, the tightening force and stretchability are changed in both directions of the knitted fabric, but in the case of this document 3, there is little change in elongation and weft elongation in the knitted fabric warp direction, and in the knitted fabric width direction. The amount of change such as weft elongation is somewhat small and may not be satisfied depending on the application, and it is desired to further increase the amount of change in stretchability and tightening force. Further, there is a problem that as the elastic yarn increases, the color fastness becomes worse and the color fading easily occurs.

Furthermore, in the case of Patent Document 4, in a stretchable warp knitted fabric using inelastic yarns and elastic yarns as knitting yarns, the stretch of the ground knitting is restricted by inserting the inelastic yarns partially. It is shown that the sex part and the non-stretchable part are arranged in stripes. However, in the case of this document 4, since it is a change in stretchability due to the inelastic yarn partially inserted into the ground knitting structure, basically only a change in stretchability and tightening force in the knitted fabric width direction is required. The difference in change is not so large, and a feeling of pressure when used for clothing such as shorts and girdle cannot be sufficiently obtained.
JP 9-228203 A JP 2000-8203 A JP 2003-138456 A JP 2004-27465 A

  In view of the above, the present invention can appropriately change the tightening force in at least one direction of the knitted fabric warp direction and the knitted fabric width direction as a warp knitted fabric having a stretchability as a whole knitted fabric. In addition, the elastic warp knitting can increase the difference in tightening force without changing the yarn usage such as the fineness, number and thickness of elastic yarns, and can give the change in tightening force according to usage requirements It intends to provide the ground and its manufacturing method.

The stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention that solves the above problems is knitted by a warp knitting machine equipped with a jacquard reed, and forms stitches with non-elastic yarns and inserts elastic yarns and / or stitches. An elastic warp knitted fabric in which a ground knitted structure is knitted to form and further knitted with an inelastic yarn guided by a jacquard kite, and constitutes the jacquard structure The tightening force is appropriately changed by combining at least one type of change in the fineness, number, runner length, yarn type, material, and processing method for yarn production of the inelastic yarn and the change in the jacquard structure. A plurality of regions having different forces are provided.

  According to the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the tightening force can be changed in the same jacquard structure by a combination of a change in the jacquard structure and a change in the inelastic yarn itself constituting the jacquard structure. It is possible to set multiple areas with any different tightening force without changing the yarn usage such as the number and thickness of elastic yarns in the ground knitting structure, and the difference in change is greatly increased. You can also

That is, when the jacquard structure is based on the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure, the knitted fabric portion of the thick fabric structure has a force to restrict and hold the stretch with respect to stretchability, that is, the tightening force is greater than that of the thin fabric structure portion. It is large and difficult to stretch, and has a strong tightening force. In addition, the knitted fabric portion of the hole fabric structure has a force that restricts elongation with respect to stretchability, that is, a tightening force, which is smaller than the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure and is easily stretched, and has a soft tightening force. Therefore, at least one of the differences in tightening force due to the change in the jacquard structure is the difference in fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method in yarn production of the inelastic thread constituting the jacquard structure By combining these changes, it is possible to further increase or decrease the tightening force in the region of the predetermined portion in the knitted fabric portion of each tissue, and to diversify the difference of the regions having different tightening forces. The difference can be set large.

In the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention, at least one of the differences in fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method in yarn production of the inelastic yarn constituting the ground knitted structure is changed. It can be. In this case, the change in the jacquard structure and the change in the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure are combined with the change in the inelastic yarn in the ground knitting structure, so that various changes in the tightening force can be made. The region having the required tightening force can be easily set.

  In the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the inelastic yarn structure constituting the ground knitted structure can be changed in the knitted fabric width direction. Also in this case, various changes can be applied to the tightening force by a combination of a change in the jacquard structure and a change in the yarn itself of the jacquard structure and a change in the ground knitting structure.

Furthermore, in the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, at least one of the differences in the fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method for manufacturing the yarn of the elastic yarn constituting the ground knitted structure is changed. It can also be. In this case, the difference in tightening force due to the jacquard structure can be set larger.

  In either case, as the stretch warp knitted fabric, one having stretchability in the knitted fabric warp direction or both the warp and weft directions is suitable.

In addition, the present invention provides a method for producing the stretchable warp knitted fabric, wherein a warp knitting machine having a jacquard reed is used to introduce a non-elastic yarn with at least one reed to form a stitch, The knitted fabric is knitted by inserting and / or knitting elastic yarn with at least one ground rod and / or forming stitches, and jacquard with non-elastic yarn guided by jacquard rod In the method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric for knitting a structure, at least one of the differences in fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method for manufacturing the yarn of the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure is changed. And knitting so as to set a plurality of regions having different tightening forces by appropriately changing the stretchability by a combination of the change of the inelastic yarn and the change of the jacquard structure.

As described above, according to the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention and the manufacturing method thereof, the change in the jacquard structure, the fineness of the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure, the number, the runner length, the yarn type, the material, By combining with at least one type of change in processing method for yarn production , tightening force can be increased in both the warp direction and the weft direction without changing the yarn usage such as the fineness and number of elastic yarns in the ground knitting structure. It can be changed as appropriate, a region having a required tightening force can be easily set, and a difference in change in tightening force for each region can be set large.

  Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described based on examples shown in the drawings. However, the present invention is not limited to the examples, and various implementations are possible without departing from the scope of the claims. Is possible.

  1 and 2 are schematic front views schematically showing the elastic warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 3 is a jacquard structure and jacquard yarn of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention used for clothing. FIG. 4 is a schematic explanatory view showing an example in which the elastic warp knitted fabric same as the above is used for a girdle. FIG. 5 is a schematic explanatory view of an example in which the above stretchable knitted fabric is used for a body suit. FIGS. 6 to 9 are diagrams of wrapping states of each heel showing an example of the structure of the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 10 is a thick fabric (a), thin fabric (b), and hole fabric of a jacquard fabric. It is an organization chart of the wrapping state which illustrates organization (c). FIG. 11 is an exploded structure diagram showing another example of the wrapping state of each heel of the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention.

  The stretchable knitted fabric 10 of this embodiment is knitted by a warp knitting machine including at least one jacquard ridge whose movement is controlled by a jacquard device, separately from the ground knitting ground knitting structure. . For example, as shown in the examples of the knitting structure in FIGS. 6 to 9 and FIG. 11, by a warp knitting machine including one jacquard ridge and a plurality of (usually 2 to 4 sheets) ground knives. Knitting using an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn.

  In FIG. 1, areas A, B, and C mainly divided in the knitting direction (arrow F in the figure) indicate knitted fabric portions having different jacquard structures, of which A is ( 10 is a knitted fabric portion of a thick fabric structure shown in a), B is a knitted fabric portion of a thin fabric structure shown in FIG. 10B, and C is a knitted fabric of a knitted fabric structure formed by the same wale shown in FIG. Indicates the part. The change in the jacquard structure can be changed not only in the knitting direction, that is, in the knitted fabric warp direction (arrow F in the figure) but also in the knitted fabric width direction (knitted fabric weft direction). Depending on the combination of the ground width directions, as shown in FIG. 2, in addition to being changed obliquely with respect to the knitting direction, it can be arranged and set in an arbitrary shape. Further, the boundary between the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C may be either a straight line or a curved line, or may be a combination of straight lines and curved lines.

  The jacquard structure may be knitted with a knitting structure other than the above, but is basically implemented by a combination of knitted fabric portions A, B, and C of the three types of knitting structures. In some cases, two of the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C of the three types of knitting structures may be combined, or may be combined with other jacquard knitting structures.

1 and 2, the regions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 indicated by the alternate long and short dash lines at the required locations in the knitted fabric width direction are formed on the jacquard ridge PJB as described later. Change at least one of the differences in fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method of yarn production of inelastic yarns (also referred to as jacquard yarns, hereinafter the same) that are introduced into the jacquard structure. that shows the divided areas as shown.

  The elastic warp knitted fabric 10 is knitted with a knitting structure exemplified in FIGS. 6, 7, 8, and 9, for example. Each of the above figures shows a structure for knitting a warp knitted fabric having stretchability in both the weft and warp directions of the knitted fabric. Among these, the knitting structure of FIGS. 6 and 9 is knitted by a warp knitting machine including at least three ground sheets GB1, GB2, GB3 in addition to the jacquard basket PJB. The knitting structure shown in FIGS. 7 and 8 is knitted by a warp knitting machine including at least two ground sheets GB1 and GB2 in addition to the jacquard basket PJB.

  In the case of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 6, in the knitting of the ground knitting structure, a non-elastic yarn such as synthetic fiber is basically guided in a full set by a single ground GB 1, and a stitch is formed with the same wale. As shown in the figure, a chain stitch structure (not shown) or a knitting structure that repeats the knitting to move to the adjacent wale for each required course to form a stitch and then return to the original wale to form the stitch.

  In addition, elastic yarns such as polyurethane fibers are basically guided in full set by the other two ground GB2 and GB3, and for example, the ground GB2 is applied to each wale by the stitches of the inelastic yarn. Insert the zigzag in the longitudinal direction so that it is entangled with the same wale, and for the ground GB3, insert it horizontally so that it crosses alternately from the basic wale to the left and right adjacent wale for each required course Organize.

  As a result, elasticity in the knitted fabric warp direction (knitting direction) is imparted by the elastic yarn guided by the fabric GB2, and at the same time, the elastic yarn guided by the fabric GB3 is used in both the weft and weft directions of the knitted fabric. Elasticity is imparted, and the overall warp knitted fabric 10 has elasticity in both the warp and warp directions of the knitted fabric warp direction and the knitted fabric width direction (knitted fabric weft direction).

  As for the above-mentioned elastic yarn, it is also possible to knitting the ground for guiding the elastic yarn as one piece, as in the examples of FIGS. 7 and 8, or as elastic as in the examples of FIGS. The yarn can be knitted so as to form a stitch. For example, in the case of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 7, the elastic yarn, which is basically guided in a full set by the single ground GB2, is alternately inserted between two adjacent wales for each required course. At the same time, it is knitted with a structure that is inserted zigzag in the warp direction in the same wale between the horizontal courses. In the case of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 8, the stitch formation is performed while the elastic yarn, which is basically guided in a full set by the single ground GB2, is alternately passed between adjacent wales for each course. Organized by organization. Further, in the case of the knitting structure of FIG. 9, in the knitting by the warp knitting machine including at least three ground ribs GB1, GB2, GB3, in addition to the ground GB2 that forms the stitches of the elastic yarn as in FIG. The elastic yarn guided by the ground GB3 is knitted with a knitting structure that is inserted in the warp direction in a zigzag manner so as to be entangled with the same wale. In any of these cases, the ground GB1 for introducing the inelastic yarn is knitted in the same manner as in FIG. Also in the case of these knitted structures, the elastic yarn has elasticity in both the weft and the weft.

  In the knitting structure of FIG. 6, the ground GB3 to be inserted in the horizontal direction is eliminated from the two ground GB2 and GB3 for guiding the elastic yarn, and the elastic yarn is made the same by one ground GB2. It is possible to obtain a warp knitted fabric having elasticity only in the warp direction of the knitted fabric (knitting direction) by making the structure inserted in the warp direction in a zigzag shape in the wale of the above, but in practice, as described above It is preferable to have elasticity in both directions.

In any of the knitting structures shown in FIGS. 6 to 9, the jacquard ridge PJB is used to guide a non-elastic yarn such as a synthetic fiber as a full-set basically as a pattern constituent yarn, as shown in FIG. The thick fabric structure of a), the thin fabric structure of FIG. 10B, and the hole fabric structure of FIG. 10C are appropriately knitted in accordance with the arrangement and pattern configuration of the tissue required for the knitted fabric. Thus, a jacquard organization having a desired jacquard pattern is formed. In FIGS. 6 to 9, the structure of the jacquard ridge PJB is shown as a thin ground structure. Further, in the structure of the jacquard Ｂ PJB in each of FIGS. 6 to 9, the portion represented by the thick line on the right half is the number of jacquard yarns, the thickness, and the runner length with respect to the left half of the structure. , yarn type, the material, even without less of processing methods on the yarn manufacturing differences shows a section of tissue with varying kind.

In the present invention, when the jacquard structure is knitted, an inelastic yarn that is guided by the jacquard ridge PJB and constitutes the jacquard structure according to the tightening force required depending on the use mode and application ( At least one kind of difference in fineness, number, runner length, yarn type, material, and processing method in yarn production , for example, as shown in FIG. 1 or FIG. A knitted fabric portion of each jacquard structure is obtained by combining the change in the jacquard yarn itself and the change in the jacquard structure by changing in at least one of the areas 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Among A, B, and C, the tightening force expressed as a warp knitted fabric was varied by varying the force to restrict and hold the stretch with respect to the stretchability by the elastic yarn of the ground knitting structure, that is, the tightening force. Multiple areas It is organized to formed. In particular, at this time, the regions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 having different tightening forces are used in the knitted fabric width direction when the warp knitted fabric 10 is used for clothing, that is, the warp knitted fabric. It is set according to the form that takes into account the mold making and sewing for changing from 10 to various clothing, and thereby, it is possible to give a predetermined tightening force in an arbitrary shape to a part required for use. It will be possible.

1 and 2, the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C of each jacquard structure existing at every required interval in the knitting direction are the jacquard structure of FIGS. 10 (a), (b), and (c), respectively. Of these, the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C of the thick fabric tissue, thin fabric tissue, and hole fabric structure are knitted fabric warp direction (knitting direction) and knitted fabric width. In each region 1 to 5 divided into a plurality of in the knitted fabric width direction, the inelastic yarn (Jacquard yarn) that is knitted by being knitted by the jacquard kite is changed at every required interval in the direction. (Thickness), the number, the runner length, the thread type, the material, and an example in the case where knitting is performed by changing at least one of the differences in processing methods for manufacturing the thread . For example, the region 1 is provided with the finest (thin) 33 dtex raw yarn, the region 2 is provided with the finer (thick) 44 dtex yarn, and the region 3 is provided with the 33 dtex yarn. The yarns are arranged in two aligned yarns (66 dtex), the 33 dtex yarn is arranged in the region 4 with a runner length 10% shorter than the region 1, and the 33 dtex Woolley yarn is arranged in the region 5. This shows the case of arranging and organizing.

  In this case, in each of the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C of the jacquard structure, if the region 1 where the 33 dtex yarn is used is used as the stretch standard, the knitted fabric is used in the region 2 where the 44 dtex yarn is used. The force that restricts the elongation of the tissue due to the elasticity of the elastic yarn, that is, the tightening force, is greater than that of the region 1, and the region 3 that uses two 33-dtex yarns has the above-described elongation. The limiting force, that is, the tightening force is further increased. Further, in the region 4 in which the 33 dtex yarn is disposed with the runner length shortened by 10%, the tightening force is larger than that in the region 1 due to the short runner length. Further, the region 5 using the woolly processed yarn has soft stretchability, and the tightening force is softer than the region 1.

  On the other hand, in the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C of each jacquard structure, as shown in FIG. 10 (b), the knitted fabric of a thin ground structure in which jacquard yarn is stitched across adjacent wales for each course. With reference to the base portion B, as shown in FIG. 10 (a), each wale in the knitted fabric portion A of the thick fabric structure in which the jacquard yarn is alternately formed over two adjacent knitting needles for each course as shown in FIG. By increasing the number of yarns to be swayed between them and becoming thicker, the elasticity that restricts the elongation of the elastic yarn of the ground knitting structure, in particular, the elasticity in the width direction of the knitted fabric, that is, the tightening force increases. . In addition, in the knitted fabric portion C of the hole structure in which the jacquard yarn is stitched with the same wale as shown in FIG. 10 (c), there is no connection between adjacent wales by the yarn, so the tightening force in the knitted fabric warp direction is However, the force that limits the elongation is small with respect to the stretchability in the knitted fabric width direction, and the tightening force becomes weak.

Therefore, at least one of the change in the jacquard structure and the difference in fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method in yarn production of the inelastic thread (jacquard thread) constituting the jacquard structure In combination with the change, regions having different tightening forces are formed in the knitted fabric portions A, B, and C, respectively. For example, in the knitted fabric portion A of the thick fabric structure, the region B3 corresponding to the region 3 that uses 66 dtex aligning yarn as the jacquard yarn has the largest force for limiting the stretch with respect to stretchability. In the knitted fabric portion C of the hole structure, the region 1 or the region 5 using 33 dtex yarn as the jacquard yarn is stretched with respect to stretchability. The limiting force is small and easy to extend, and the tightening force becomes weak. In particular, the region 5 has a softer tightening force.

  The shape and arrangement of the regions having different tightening forces are appropriately determined depending on the change position and range of the jacquard structure and the range in the knitted fabric width direction of the region where the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure itself is changed. Can be set. For this reason, for example, a tightening force such as a region having a strong tightening force or a region having a soft and soft tightening force is applied to a predetermined part corresponding to a body shape correction function or fit required for use as a female underwear or the like. The area to be set can be set as appropriate.

  FIG. 3 shows a knitted fabric portion A of a thick fabric structure, a knitted fabric portion B of a thin fabric structure, and a knitted fabric portion C of a knitted fabric structure as a jacquard structure in an elastic warp knitted fabric 10 used for apparel such as a girdle. The jacquard structure is arranged in regions 11, 12, 13, and 14 that are appropriately arranged in accordance with the use form and application as clothing, and are divided at required intervals in the knitted fabric width direction (knitted fabric weft direction). The number of elastic yarns (Jacquard yarns) is changed, and in the range of the regions 12 and 14, one yarn is introduced and knitted by the jacquard rods. This shows a case where two yarns are guided by knitting and knitted.

  In this case, the force that restricts the elongation, that is, the tightening force, with respect to the stretchability of the ground knitting structure by the elastic yarn is two in each of the two regions rather than the range of the regions 12 and 14 knitted by knitting with each one. The range of the regions 11 and 13 knitted by introducing the yarn is larger. Therefore, the change in the number of the jacquard yarns is such that the knitted fabric portion A of the thick fabric structure and the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure, which have a difference in the force that restricts stretch with respect to stretchability, that is, the tightening force, depending on the structure of the knitted fabric itself By combining with B and the change of the knitted fabric portion C of the hole fabric structure, each region 11, 12, 13, 14 with respect to the tightening force of the knitted fabric portions A, B, C of each jacquard structure A large difference can be generated every time, and an area where the difference in tightening force is large can be easily set as compared with the case where only the change in the jacquard structure is made.

  That is, in the region of the knitted fabric portion A of the thick fabric structure located in the range of the regions 11 and 13 knitted by introducing two jacquard yarns, the force that restricts the stretch is the largest. In the region of the knitted fabric portion C of the hole structure located in the region of the regions 12 and 14 knitted by knitting with one yarn, it is difficult to stretch. The limiting force is the smallest, easy to extend, and has a soft tightening force. Also in this embodiment, the shape and arrangement of the regions having different tightening forces can be appropriately changed by setting the change position and range of the jacquard structure and the range of changing the number of jacquard yarns. .

  Accordingly, for example, in the apparel such as the girdle shown in FIG. 4, tightening of a region having a strong tightening force or a region having a soft and soft tightening force at a predetermined part according to a request for a body shape correction function or fit at the time of wearing. Various areas with different forces can be set arbitrarily.

  FIG. 4 shows a girdle as an example of an apparel in which the elastic warp knitted fabric 10 of FIG. 3 is configured with the knitting direction set sideways, and A, B, and C in FIG. 3 correspond to FIG. The knitted fabric part of the thick fabric structure, the knitted fabric part of the thin fabric structure, and the knitted fabric part of the perforated fabric structure are shown. 12 and 14 out of the regions 11, 12, 13, and 14 guide the jacquard yarn by one each. Regions 11 and 13 knitted with yarns indicate regions knitted by introducing two jacquard yarns. In this case, the region of the knitted fabric portion A of the thick fabric structure among the regions 11 and 13 knitted by knitting with two jacquard yarns each has the largest tightening force, and the region of the hip portion It is set to the part along the lower line. Reference numeral 15 denotes another stretchable fabric sewn on the waist.

  FIG. 5 shows an example in which the stretchable warp knitted fabric 10 of the present invention is used for a body suit. In this embodiment, A, B, and C in FIG. The knitted fabric portion of the ground portion, the thin fabric structure, and the knitted fabric portion is shown. In the figure, reference numeral 21 denotes a single inelastic yarn (Jacquard yarn) constituting the jacquard structure. The knitted pants side region 22 indicates a waist side region knitted by introducing two jacquard yarns. In particular, in the case of FIG. 5, the knitted fabric portion A of the thick fabric structure is set in the abdominal portion of the waist-side region 22 to the pants-side region 21 and the portion extending from the side-side portion to the lower hip. As described above, various regions having different tightening forces such as a region having a strong tightening force or a region having a soft and soft tightening force can be arbitrarily and easily set in a necessary part in use. In the figure, reference numeral 25 denotes another fabric constituting the bust portion.

In the above-described embodiments of FIGS. 3 to 5, the example of changing the number of inelastic yarns guided by the jacquard kite is shown, but in addition to the examples of FIGS. 1 and 2, As described above, it is possible to change the fineness of the jacquard yarn or the runner length, and it is also possible to change the material, the processing method for manufacturing the yarn, etc. , in particular, the fineness, the number, the runner length, the thread type, the material In addition, a plurality or all of the differences in processing methods for yarn production can be changed in combination. As a result, a variety of different tightening force differences and changes can be generated.

Further, in addition to the change in the jacquard structure and the change in the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure, the fineness, number, runner length, yarn type, material, yarn of the inelastic yarn constituting the ground knitting structure It is also possible to further diversify the change in the region where the tightening force is different by changing at least one of the differences in the manufacturing method . Further, the basic organization of the ground knitting organization is not limited to the knitting organization as shown in FIGS. 6 to 9 but can be implemented by various knitting organizations such as satin knitting, denbi knitting, plain cord knitting, and the like. It is also possible to change the organization. In particular, there may be a case where a plurality of grounds for introducing the inelastic yarn are knitted so as to form a stitch.

  As an example of changing the knitting structure, the knitting structure in FIG. 11 shows a case where inelastic yarns are knitted by two ground GB1 and GB2, and the stitches are transferred to adjacent wales for each required course by the ground GB1. Combining the structure to be formed and the chain stitch structure in which stitches are formed with the same wale by the ground GB2 and knitting each of the structures alternately at a required interval in the knitted fabric width direction (knitted fabric weft direction). Can do. Also in this case, the grounds GB3 and GB4 for introducing the elastic yarn are knitted in the same manner as the grounds GB2 and GB3 in FIG.

Furthermore, in addition to the change in the jacquard structure and the change in the inelastic yarn that constitutes the jacquard structure, the difference in the fineness of the elastic yarn, the number, the runner length, the thread type, the material, and the processing method for yarn production It is also possible to further diversify the change in the region where the tightening force is different by changing at least one of the above.

  As inelastic yarns used for the above-mentioned ground knitting structure and jacquard yarn, various synthetic fiber yarns such as nylon yarn, polyester yarn and acrylic yarn, and natural fiber yarns such as wool, silk and cotton should be used. You can also. Various elastic yarns such as polyurethane elastic yarns and covered yarns using polyurethane yarns as core yarns can be used as the elastic yarns used in the ground knitting structure. In either case, the fineness of the yarn can be appropriately set according to the use of the knitted fabric.

  Further, the feeding of the jacquard yarn from the supply unit to the knitting portion may be either beam feeding or creel feeding.

[Comparison test]
Regarding the effect of the stretch warp knitted fabric 10 described above, the knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention in which the jacquard yarn is changed based on the knitted fabric in which the yarn is not changed (basic knitted fabric), and the elastic yarn With respect to the knitted fabric of the comparative example that was changed, a pressure test was performed and verified.

  Note that the pressure test was performed by the following method.

  For each of the basic knitted fabric, the knitted fabric of the example, and the knitted fabric of the comparative example, each sample was conditioned for 24 hours in a temperature-controlled room at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. With a surface of 4 cm in each direction of warp and latitude, crossed at a right angle at the center and pulled in both directions of warp and weft so that each line has the following set length, a diameter of 12 cm, It is mounted on the surface of a cylindrical body made of a steel plate having a peripheral diameter of 38 cm and a height of 10 cm.

(Tension setting of test product)
(1) Warp 20% elongation = 4.8cm Weft 20% elongation = 4.8cm
(2) Warp 20% elongation = 4.8cm Weft 30% elongation = 5.2cm
(3) Warp 30% elongation = 5.2cm Weft 20% elongation = 4.8cm
(4) Warp 30% elongation = 5.2cm Weft 30% elongation = 5.2cm

  A clothing pressure measuring device (AM13037-2: manufactured by AIM Techno Co., Ltd.) was used as a measuring device, and an air pack having a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of 0.035 mm was attached to the center of the peripheral surface of the cylindrical body. The sample is mounted so as to cover the sample, and the sample is prepared so that the pressure is applied to the air pack vertically and uniformly, and the sample is worn in the environment of the temperature of 20 ° C. and the humidity of 65% RH. The pressure was measured.

  The measurement data of the contact pressure was the average value of the measurement for 30 seconds, and the average value of the measurement data of the three times was taken by re-mounting three times. The measurement data in Table 1 below is shown in kPa.

(Basic knitting fabric)
As a warp knitting machine, a jacquard russell machine (RSJ4 / 1, 28 gauge) manufactured by KARL MAYER was used to introduce one nylon thread, which is a 33 dtex inelastic yarn, as a jacquard 筬 PJB, A 33 dtex nylon yarn is introduced as an inelastic yarn by the ground GB1, a 235 dtex polyurethane yarn is introduced as an elastic yarn by the ground GB2, and a 44 dtex polyurethane yarn is introduced as an elastic yarn by the ground GB3. The basic warp knitted fabric having the knitted fabric portions of the thick fabric structure of FIG. 10 (a) and the thin fabric structure of FIG. 10 (b) is taken as an on-machine course of 61 courses / inch with the knitted structure of FIGS. 12A and 12B. Organized. The obtained warp knitted fabric was subjected to predetermined finishing treatment such as scouring and heat setting to obtain a warp knitted fabric having a stretch course of 120 courses / inch.
About the obtained elastic warp knitted fabric, the knitted fabric portion of the thick fabric structure and the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure were used as samples, respectively, and a pressure test was conducted in the stretched state as described above to measure the pressure. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

(Example)
Except for introducing two jacquard yarns by aligning two yarns, using the same yarn as the basic knitted fabric, knitting with the same knitting structure (Fig. 13A and Fig. 13B) as the same machine course as above, The obtained warp knitted fabric was subjected to the same finishing treatment to obtain a warp knitted fabric having stretchability of a finishing course of 120 courses / inch.
In addition, in the paragraph [0052] and subsequent paragraphs of this specification, the word “Example” refers to “the fineness, number, and runner length of the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure” from the basic knitted fabric (FIGS. 12A and 12B). "At least one kind of difference in yarn type, material, and processing method in yarn production" is used to mean an example of a knitted fabric in which the knitted fabric is changed. Specifically, the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure is used in the sense of a knitted fabric (FIGS. 13A and 13B) using two yarns that are aligned. On the other hand, before the paragraph [0052], the word “example” is used in the meaning of a specific example of the present invention itself as usual.
The obtained stretch warp knitted fabric was subjected to the same pressure test as that of the basic knitted fabric using the knitted fabric portion of the thick fabric structure and the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure as samples, and the pressure was measured. The results are also shown in Table 1 below.

(Comparative example)
Use the same yarn as the basic knitted fabric, except that the elastic yarn is guided by the ground GB2 constituting the ground knitting structure, and knitted by guiding two 235 dtex polyurethane yarns by aligning (470 dtex). The knitted fabric portion (FIGS. 14A and 14B) was used, and the knitted fabric portion of the stretchable warp knitted fabric and the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric were subjected to the same pressure test as that of the basic knitted fabric. . The results are also shown in Table 1 below.

  As a result of the above test, the knitted fabric of the example in which two jacquard yarns were used, the basic knitted fabric of a normal jacquard knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric of a comparative example in which two elastic yarns of the ground knitted fabric were used. In comparison, in the case where the knitted fabric is pulled in the same manner, in the case of the example, both the thick knitted fabric and the knitted fabric portion of the thin woven fabric have higher pressure on the basic knitted fabric. In the case of the example, compared with the knitted fabric of the comparative example, the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure has a low pressure, and the knitted fabric portion of the thick fabric structure has almost no difference in the pressure, especially the amount of tension increases. The difference became smaller. That is, in the case of the knitted fabric of the example, the difference between the knitted fabric portion of the thick fabric structure and the knitted fabric portion of the thin fabric structure can be increased, and the change in the jacquard structure can be made more than in the comparative example in which two elastic yarns are used. Combined with changes in jacquard yarn, changes in tightening force can be diversified.

  Therefore, the elastic warp knitted fabric 10 of the present invention can apply a tightening force according to the purpose by applying a tightening force to a desired portion by combining a change in the jacquard structure and a change in the jacquard yarn. Underwear such as girdle or body suit as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5 and other various clothing can be easily obtained.

  The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention and the method for producing the same are warp knitted fabrics having a jacquard pattern, foundations such as shorts, girdles, bras, body suits, lingerie and other underwear such as slips, camisole, swimwear, leotards, etc. It can utilize suitably for various clothes, such as sportswear and other outerwear.

1 is a schematic front view schematically showing an example of a stretchable knitted fabric of the present invention. It is a schematic front view which shows typically the other example of the elastic warp knitted fabric of this invention. It is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows typically an example of the elastic warp knitted fabric used for clothing. It is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows the example which used the elastic warp knitted fabric same as the above for the girdle. It is a schematic explanatory drawing of the example which used the elastic warp knitted fabric same as the above for the body suit. It is the structure | tissue figure which decomposed | disassembled which shows an example of the lapping state of each heel of the elastic warp knitted fabric of this invention. It is the structure | tissue figure which decomposed | disassembled which shows the other example of the wrapping state of each heel of the elastic warp knitted fabric same as the above. It is the structure | tissue figure which decomposed | disassembled which shows the other example of the wrapping state of each heel of the elastic warp knitted fabric same as the above. It is the structure | tissue figure which decomposed | disassembled which shows the other example of the wrapping state of each heel of the elastic warp knitted fabric same as the above. It is an organization chart of the wrapping state which illustrates each of the jacquard organization of (a), (b), and (c). It is the structure | tissue figure which decomposed | disassembled which shows the other example of the wrapping state of each heel of the elastic warp knitted fabric of this invention. It is a structure | tissue chart of the lapping state which decomposed | disassembled the thick-tissue structure | tissue of the basic knitted fabric used for the adhesion test. It is the organization chart of the wrapping state which decomposed | disassembled the thin fabric of the basic knitted fabric used for the contact pressure test. It is a structure | tissue chart of the wrapping state which the heavy-weight structure | tissue decomposed | disassembled in the Example of this invention used for the adhesion test. It is a structure | tissue chart of the lapping state which the thin ground structure | tissue decomposed | disassembled in the Example of this invention used for the adhesion test. It is a structure | tissue chart of the lapping state which the heavy-weight structure | tissue of the comparative example used for the contact pressure test decomposed | disassembled. It is a structure | tissue chart of the lapping state which the thin-ground structure | tissue of the comparative example used for the contact pressure test decomposed | disassembled.

Explanation of symbols

  PJB ... Jacquard ridge, GB1 ... Ground, GB2 ... Ground, GB3 ... Ground, GB4 ... Ground, A ... A knitted fabric portion of a thick fabric structure, B ... A knitted fabric portion of a thin fabric tissue, C ... Knitted fabric portion, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... region divided in the knitted fabric width direction, 10 ... elastic warp knitted fabric, 11, 12, 13, 14 ... region divided in the knitted fabric width direction, 21 ... Pants side area, 22 ... waist side area.

Claims (6)

Knitted by a warp knitting machine equipped with a jacquard reed, forming stitches with non-elastic yarns, knitting a ground knitted structure by inserting and / or forming elastic yarns, and further using jacquard reeds A warp knitted fabric having stretchability formed by knitting a jacquard structure to form a stitch with an inelastic yarn to be introduced,
Tightening force is obtained by combining at least one type of change in the fineness, number, runner length, thread type, material, and processing method of yarn production of the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure and the change in the jacquard structure. A stretchable warp knitted fabric characterized in that a plurality of regions having different tightening forces are provided by appropriately changing. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein at least one of differences in fineness, number, runner length, yarn type, material, and processing method in yarn production of the inelastic yarn constituting the ground knitting structure is changed. .   The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the texture of the inelastic yarn constituting the ground knitted fabric is changed in the knitted fabric width direction. The fineness, the number, the runner length, the thread type, the material, and at least one of the differences in the processing method for manufacturing the yarn are changed. Stretch warp knitted fabric.   The elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the elastic warp knitted fabric is made of a material having elasticity in a knitted fabric warp direction or both the warp and weft directions. By using a warp knitting machine equipped with a jacquard reed, a non-elastic yarn is introduced by at least one ground to form a stitch, and an elastic yarn is introduced by at least one other ground to perform insertion knitting. In the method for producing a stretchable warp knitted fabric, in which the knitted fabric is knitted and / or knitted to form a knitted fabric and further knitted to form a jacquard texture formed by an inelastic yarn guided by a jacquard ridge.
Changing the fineness of the inelastic yarn constituting the jacquard structure, the number of yarns, the runner length, the thread type, the material, and the processing method for manufacturing the yarn, and changing the inelastic yarn and the jacquard structure A method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric, wherein the knitting is performed by appropriately changing the tightening force according to the combination and setting a plurality of regions having different tightening forces.

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