CN111648021A - Lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111648021A CN111648021A CN202010520136.0A CN202010520136A CN111648021A CN 111648021 A CN111648021 A CN 111648021A CN 202010520136 A CN202010520136 A CN 202010520136A CN 111648021 A CN111648021 A CN 111648021A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
- D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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Abstract
一种多变化底纹的蕾丝织物及其制备方法,包括织物本体,织物本体具有底纹,所述底纹包括底纹单元结构,底纹单元结构包括采用纱线Y1、纱线Y2在一个花型循环内走成圈结构以重叠和分开的方式进行交替编织形成,底纹单元结构包括若干列纵向底纹单元,纵向底纹单元包括当前列成圈结构和其他列成圈结构,纵向底纹单元的其他列成圈结构由当前列成圈结构的纱线偏移W针数一体编织而成。本发明保持外部装饰性的同时,提高了保暖性,能广泛应用于内衣、束身衣、运动及休闲服饰。
A lace fabric with multiple changeable shading patterns and a preparation method thereof, comprising a fabric body, the fabric body having a shading pattern, the shading pattern comprising a shading pattern unit structure, the shading pattern unit structure comprising a yarn Y1 and a yarn Y2 forming a loop structure in a pattern cycle, and alternately knitting in an overlapping and separate manner, the shading pattern unit structure comprising a plurality of longitudinal shading pattern units, the longitudinal shading unit comprising a current row of loop structures and other row of loop structures, and the other row of loop structures of the longitudinal shading unit are knitted integrally by offsetting the yarn of the current row of loop structures by a number of needles W. The present invention improves warmth retention while maintaining external decorativeness, and can be widely used in underwear, corsets, sports and leisure clothing.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明属于服装面料技术领域,具体地说是一种多变化底纹的蕾丝织物及其制备方法。The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing fabrics, and in particular relates to a lace fabric with variable shading and a preparation method thereof.
背景技术Background technique
随着纺织设备的创新及纺织技术的进步,蕾丝面料作为一款受大众青睐的时尚面料,自进入消费市场后便得到了越来越广泛的应用,比如内衣、休闲装饰等。With the innovation of textile equipment and the advancement of textile technology, lace fabric, as a fashionable fabric favored by the public, has been more and more widely used since it entered the consumer market, such as underwear, leisure decoration, etc.
传统蕾丝织物为了达到通透效果,在设计上充分利用了孔洞元素。但是这些或大或小的孔洞,在增添了蕾丝织物性感和美感的同时,也在很大程度上影响了服装的遮蔽性能;In order to achieve a transparent effect, traditional lace fabrics make full use of hole elements in the design. However, these large or small holes, while adding the sexy and aesthetic feeling of the lace fabric, also greatly affect the covering performance of the clothing;
同样,这些孔洞虽然可以增强其透气性使穿着更舒爽,但也使得蕾丝织物的保暖性不被大家考虑;Similarly, although these holes can enhance its breathability and make it more comfortable to wear, it also makes the warmth of lace fabrics not considered by everyone;
还有,传统蕾丝织物的地梳组织的变化是跟随衬纬地梳的结构变化而变化的,相对来说是比较单一的,需要做一些创新性的改变;In addition, the change of the ground comb structure of the traditional lace fabric changes with the structural change of the weft-inserted ground comb, which is relatively simple and requires some innovative changes;
传统蕾丝织物易脱散也是其在应用上需要面对的潜在风险。针对脱散风险,传统的改善方案是提高编织密度和成圈地梳在较大长度变化形成横锁线,使得脱散情况在变化位置处得到停止。但是却很大程度的影响了织物的外观美感,并且脱散的风险仍然存在。另一改善脱散的方案是使用热熔丝纱线,利用其高温后会熔粘的特性来达到防脱散目的。但热熔纱高温熔粘后会变硬,会直接影响到织物的顺滑感和良好的弹性,所以也不能被广泛投入生产。The easy detachment of traditional lace fabrics is also a potential risk that needs to be faced in application. In view of the risk of detachment, the traditional improvement plan is to increase the weaving density and form a horizontal lock line with a large length change of the looped ground comb, so that the detachment can be stopped at the changing position. However, it greatly affects the appearance of the fabric, and the risk of separation still exists. Another solution to improve the detachment is to use thermal fusible yarns to prevent detachment by taking advantage of their fused properties after high temperature. However, the hot-melt yarn will become hard after being fused at high temperature, which will directly affect the smoothness and good elasticity of the fabric, so it cannot be widely used in production.
经查询服装行业蕾丝织物相关专利及其它资料,至今还没有任何资料能全面描述并有效解决上述缺陷和风险,比如:After inquiring about the relevant patents and other materials of lace fabrics in the garment industry, there is still no information that can fully describe and effectively solve the above defects and risks, such as:
CN 205062362U描述的是一种编织可变化网眼的弹力蕾丝花边的经编机,包括梳栉摇架以及多组梳栉。在需要的位置设置辅助编织地组织梳栉,从而形成与地组织工艺结构不同的网眼效果,且能保证所编织的网眼效果稳定。CN 205062362U describes a warp knitting machine for weaving elastic lace with variable mesh, including a bar cradle and multiple groups of bars. Auxiliary woven ground weave bars are arranged at the required positions, so as to form a mesh effect different from the ground weave process structure, and the woven mesh effect can be guaranteed to be stable.
CN103469469B描述的是一种几何元素经编蕾丝花边及其制备方法:用锦纶和阳离子改性涤纶丝二种原料经花边机器编织而成,织造完成后,经过染色后整理工序,得到几何元素经编蕾丝花边。CN103469469B describes a geometrical element warp knitted lace and a preparation method thereof: two kinds of raw materials, nylon and cation-modified polyester yarn, are woven by lace machine. Lace.
CN107287755B描述了一种多梳经编机的编织方法:增加一套积极送经装置送出氨纶纱线,氨纶纱线被喂入与非氨纶纱线相同或不同的成圈地梳中,使得受损后地纱线圈和花纱均不易脱散。CN107287755B describes a knitting method of a multi-card warp knitting machine: adding a set of positive let-off devices to send out spandex yarns, the spandex yarns are fed into the same or different loop-forming combs as the non-spandex yarns, so that the damaged The back ground yarn loop and the flower yarn are not easy to come off.
在上述专利中,CN 205062362U基于传统蕾丝的通透性而设计并加强了网眼(即孔洞)的效果稳定,CN103469469B增加了蕾丝织物在色彩方面的多样性,但它们都不能改善传统蕾丝织物在遮蔽性与保暖性方面的缺陷。CN107287755B增加积极送经装置势必会增大生产成本及维护成本,原料必须是长丝配氨纶也限制了织物的风格和种类,且长丝与氨纶同向成圈的固化模式也会影响到织物花式及外观。In the above-mentioned patents, CN 205062362U is designed based on the permeability of traditional lace and strengthens the stability of the effect of mesh (ie, holes), and CN103469469B increases the diversity of lace fabrics in terms of colors, but they can not improve the traditional lace fabrics in shading. Defects in sex and warmth. CN107287755B Adding a positive let-off device will inevitably increase production cost and maintenance cost. The raw material must be filament and spandex, which also limits the style and type of fabric, and the curing mode of filament and spandex in the same direction will also affect the fabric pattern. form and appearance.
综上所述,消费市场需要一款既能保持传统蕾丝面料花型美艳、立体感强、花式繁多,外观漂亮通透等优点不受根本影响,又能改善其遮蔽性、保暖性及脱散性且不需增加额外成本的新一代蕾丝面料。To sum up, the consumer market needs a product that can not only maintain the advantages of traditional lace fabrics such as beautiful patterns, strong three-dimensional sense, various patterns, beautiful and transparent appearance, etc. A new generation of lace fabrics that are releasable at no extra cost.
发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
为了解决上述的技术问题,本发明提供了一种多变化底纹的蕾丝织物。In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention provides a lace fabric with varied shading.
为了解决上述技术问题,本发明采取以下技术方案:In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:
一种多变化底纹的蕾丝织物,包括织物本体,织物本体具有底纹,所述底纹包括底纹单元结构,底纹单元结构包括采用纱线Y1、纱线Y2在一个花型循环内走成圈结构以重叠和分开的方式进行交替编织形成,底纹单元结构包括若干列纵向底纹单元,纵向底纹单元包括当前列成圈结构和其他列成圈结构,纵向底纹单元的其他列成圈结构由当前列成圈结构的纱线偏移W针数一体编织而成。A lace fabric with variable shading, including a fabric body, the fabric body has a shading, the shading includes a shading unit structure, and the shading unit structure includes using yarn Y1 and yarn Y2 to run in a pattern cycle. The loop-forming structure is formed by alternating weaving in an overlapping and separating manner. The shading unit structure includes several columns of longitudinal shading units. The longitudinal shading unit includes the loop-forming structure of the current column and the loop-forming structure of other columns. The other columns of the longitudinal shading unit The loop-forming structure is integrally knitted by the offset W needles of the yarns of the current loop-forming structure.
所述底纹单元结构还包括采用纱线Y3、纱线Y4以衬纬结构经花纱梳栉编织而成的衬纬结构层。The shading unit structure also includes a weft-inserted structure layer woven by using yarns Y3 and Y4 in a weft-inserted structure by warp and flower yarn bars.
所述底纹单元结构为NW x NL的成圈结构,其中NL为纱线在编织过程中线圈所跨横列数,NW为纱线在编织过程中的偏移针数。The shading unit structure is a loop-forming structure of N W x NL, wherein NL is the number of courses spanned by the stitches of the yarn during the knitting process, and N W is the number of offset needles of the yarn during the knitting process.
所述纱线Y1为直编链结构编织时,NW1=1,NL1=1;纱线Y2为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW2≥1,而12≥NL2≥1,NW1代表纱线Y1的偏移针数,NW2代表纱线Y2的偏移针数;NL1代表纱线Y1线圈所跨横列数,NL2代表纱线Y2线圈所跨横列数。When the yarn Y1 is woven with a straight chain structure, N W1 =1, N L1 =1; when the yarn Y2 is woven with a variable chain structure, 5≥N W2 ≥1, and 12≥N L2 ≥1, N W1 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y1, N W2 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y2; NL1 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y1, and NL2 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y2.
所述纱线Y1为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW1≥1,而12≥NL1≥1;纱线Y2为直编链结构编织时,NW2=1,而NL2=1,NW1代表纱线Y1的偏移针数,NW2代表纱线Y2的偏移针数;NL1代表纱线Y1线圈所跨横列数,NL2代表纱线Y2线圈所跨横列数。When the yarn Y1 is woven with a variable chain structure, 5≥N W1 ≥1, and 12≥N L1 ≥1; when the yarn Y2 is woven with a straight chain structure, N W2 =1, and NL2 =1, N W1 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y1, N W2 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y2; NL1 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y1, and NL2 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y2.
所述纱线Y1为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW1≥1,而12≥NL1≥1;纱线Y2为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW2≥1,而12≥NL2≥1,NW1代表纱线Y1的偏移针数,NW2代表纱线Y2的偏移针数;NL1代表纱线Y1线圈所跨横列数,NL2代表纱线Y2线圈所跨横列数。When the yarn Y1 is knitted with a changing chain structure, 5≥N W1 ≥1, and 12≥N L1 ≥1; when the yarn Y2 is woven with a changing chain structure, 5≥N W2 ≥1, and 12≥N L2 ≥ 1, N W1 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y1, N W2 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y2; N L1 represents the number of courses spanned by the loops of yarn Y1, and N L2 represents the courses spanned by loops of yarn Y2 number.
所述纱线Y1、纱线Y2均为长丝,线密度为10-150D;或者纱线Y1、纱线Y2均为氨纶,线密度为20-100D;或者纱线Y1、纱线Y2均为长丝与氨纶组成的复合纱,线密度为20-150D,其中长丝线密度为10-100D,氨纶线密度为10-70D。The yarns Y1 and Y2 are both filaments with a linear density of 10-150D; or both the yarns Y1 and Y2 are spandex with a linear density of 20-100D; or the yarns Y1 and Y2 are both The composite yarn composed of filament and spandex has a linear density of 20-150D, of which the linear density of the filament is 10-100D and the linear density of the spandex is 10-70D.
所述纱线Y3为长丝,线密度为20-140D;或者纱线Y3为氨纶弹性丝,线密度为20-280D;或者纱线Y3为长丝与氨纶组成的复合纱,线密度为20-150D,其中长丝线密度为10-100D,氨纶线密度为10-70D。The yarn Y3 is a filament with a linear density of 20-140D; or the yarn Y3 is a spandex elastic yarn with a linear density of 20-280D; or the yarn Y3 is a composite yarn composed of filament and spandex with a linear density of 20 -150D, in which the linear density of filament is 10-100D, and the linear density of spandex is 10-70D.
所述纱线Y4为氨纶弹性丝,线密度为70-560D;或者纱线Y4为长丝,线密度为30-280D。The yarn Y4 is a spandex elastic yarn with a linear density of 70-560D; or the yarn Y4 is a filament with a linear density of 30-280D.
织物本体的底纹单元结构采用纱线Y1、纱线Y2在一个花型循环内走成圈结构以重叠和分开的方式进行交替编织形成,纱线Y1和纱线Y2在当前纵向走成圈结构编织后会向左方向或向右方向横向偏移W针数继续编织,形成节NW x NL的编织结构,其中,NW为纱线在编织过程中的偏移针数,NL为纱线在编织过程中的线圈所跨横列数,通过与纱线Y3、纱线Y4走衬纬结构与多把花纱梳栉组合编织形成多变化底纹的蕾丝织物。The shading unit structure of the fabric body is formed by alternately knitting the yarn Y1 and Y2 in a loop structure in a pattern cycle in an overlapping and separated manner. The yarn Y1 and Y2 are looped in the current longitudinal direction. After knitting, the number of needles W will be shifted laterally to the left or right to continue knitting to form a knitting structure of knots N W x NL, where N W is the number of offset needles of the yarn during the knitting process, and NL is The number of courses spanned by the loops of the yarn during the weaving process is combined with yarn Y3 and yarn Y4 in the weft-insertion structure and multiple flower yarn combs to form a lace fabric with varied shading.
本发明通过纱线走成圈结构编织,并且进行横向偏移相应的针数,形成对角线上的成圈结构,从而形成垂直、水平和对角线方向的编织结构,可通过调节纱线的偏移量实现不同的覆盖率,从而调节整体的通透性和透气性,并由此调节了织物的通透性、改变了孔洞的透气性、提高了织物的保暖性。In the present invention, the yarn is knitted in a loop structure, and the corresponding needle number is laterally shifted to form a loop structure on the diagonal, thereby forming a knitting structure in vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions. By adjusting the yarn The offsets of the s are to achieve different coverages, thereby adjusting the overall permeability and air permeability, thereby adjusting the permeability of the fabric, changing the air permeability of the holes, and improving the warmth retention of the fabric.
附图说明Description of drawings
附图1:底纹单元NW x NL中的对角线纱线Y随着NW、NL的取值不同而走向不同(Ya、Yb、Yc)的示意图;Accompanying drawing 1: the schematic diagram that the diagonal yarn Y in the shading unit N W x NL goes to different (Ya, Yb, Yc) with the different values of N W and NL;
附图2:纱线Y1、Y2分层穿纱示意图;Accompanying drawing 2: Yarn Y1, Y2 layered threading schematic diagram;
附图3:本发明实施例中Y1的结构为开口编链结构(0-1/1-0//);Figure 3: The structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the present invention is an open chain structure (0-1/1-0//);
附图4:本发明实施例中Y1的结构为开口编链结构(1-0/0-1//);Figure 4: The structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the present invention is an open chain structure (1-0/0-1//);
附图5:本发明实施例中Y1的结构为闭口编链结构(0-1/0-1//);Figure 5: The structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the present invention is a closed chain structure (0-1/0-1//);
附图6:本发明实施例中Y1的结构为闭口编链结构(1-0/1-0//);Figure 6: In the embodiment of the present invention, the structure of Y1 is a closed chain structure (1-0/1-0//);
附图7:本发明实施例中Y2的结构为开口变化编链结构(0-1/1-0/0-1/1-2//)。Figure 7: In the embodiment of the present invention, the structure of Y2 is an open-change chain structure (0-1/1-0/0-1/1-2//).
附图8:本发明实施例中Y2的结构为开口变化编链结构(1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2//)。Figure 8: In the embodiment of the present invention, the structure of Y2 is an open-change chain structure (1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2//).
附图9:本发明实施例中Y2的结构为闭口变化编链结构(0-1/0-1/0-1/1-2//)。Figure 9: In the embodiment of the present invention, the structure of Y2 is a closed-mouthed chain structure (0-1/0-1/0-1/1-2//).
附图10:本发明实施例中Y2的结构为闭口变化编链结构(1-0/1-0/1-0/1-2//)。Figure 10: In the embodiment of the present invention, the structure of Y2 is a closed-mouthed chain structure (1-0/1-0/1-0/1-2//).
附图11:本发明实施例中Y3的结构为衬纬结构(0-0/2-2//);Figure 11: The structure of Y3 in the embodiment of the present invention is a weft inlay structure (0-0/2-2//);
附图12:本发明实施例中Y3的结构为衬纬结构(2-2/0-0//);Figure 12: The structure of Y3 in the embodiment of the present invention is a weft inlay structure (2-2/0-0//);
附图13:本发明实施例中Y4的结构为衬纬结构(0-0/1-1//);Figure 13: The structure of Y4 in the embodiment of the present invention is a weft inlay structure (0-0/1-1//);
附图14:本发明实施例中Y4的结构为衬纬结构(1-1/0-0//);Figure 14: The structure of Y4 in the embodiment of the present invention is a weft inlay structure (1-1/0-0//);
附图15:本发明实施例中Y1、Y2、Y3、Y4组合后的结构示意图之一;Figure 15: One of the structural schematic diagrams after the combination of Y1, Y2, Y3, and Y4 in the embodiment of the present invention;
附图16:本发明实施例中Y1、Y2组合后的结构示意图之一。FIG. 16 is one of the structural schematic diagrams after the combination of Y1 and Y2 in the embodiment of the present invention.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
为能进一步了解本发明的特征、技术手段以及所达到的具体目的、功能,下面结合附图与具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细描述。In order to further understand the features, technical means, and specific goals and functions of the present invention, the present invention will be described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.
如附图1所示,一种多变化底纹的蕾丝织物,包括织物本体,织物本体具有底纹,所述底纹包括底纹单元结构,底纹单元结构包括采用纱线Y1、纱线Y2在一个花型循环内走成圈结构以重叠和分开的方式进行交替编织形成,底纹单元结构包括若干列纵向底纹单元,纵向底纹单元包括当前列成圈结构和其他列成圈结构,纵向底纹单元的其他列成圈结构由当前列成圈结构的纱线偏移W针数一体编织而成。As shown in FIG. 1, a lace fabric with variable shading includes a fabric body, the fabric body has shading, the shading includes a shading unit structure, and the shading unit structure includes using yarn Y1, yarn Y2 In a pattern cycle, the stitching structure is alternately woven in an overlapping and separating manner, the shading unit structure includes several rows of longitudinal shading units, and the longitudinal shading unit includes the current row stitching structure and other row stitching structures, The other row stitch structures of the longitudinal shading unit are integrally knitted by the yarn offset W of the current row stitch structure.
在具体制备时,纱线Y1和纱线Y2在当前纵向走成圈结构编织后会向左方向或向右方向横向偏移W针数继续编织,形成节NW x NL的编织结构,其中,NW为纱线在编织过程中的偏移针数,NL为纱线在编织过程中的线圈所跨横列数,通过与纱线Y3、纱线Y4走衬纬结构与多把花纱梳栉组合编织形成多变化底纹的蕾丝织物。通过纱线Y1和纱线Y2的向左或向右偏移相对应的针数,形成的NW x NL的编织结构中包含了纱线偏移的对角线元素,即同一纱线在纵向上成圈结构编织时还偏移相应针数再进行编织,可通过调节纱线的偏移针数,实现纱线格的不同的覆盖率,可以调节整体单元的通透性和透气性,并由此调节了织物的通透性、改变了孔洞的透气性、提高了织物的保暖性。对角纱线随着NW、NL的取值不同,横向偏移的对角纱线的走向也不同。在附图1中,横向每一格为1针,纵向每一格为1横列。During the specific preparation, the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 will be laterally shifted to the left or right by W needles after being knitted in the current longitudinal loop structure to continue knitting to form a knitting structure of knots N W x NL, wherein , N W is the number of offset needles of the yarn in the knitting process, NL is the number of courses spanned by the stitches of the yarn in the knitting process, and the weft-insertion structure with yarn Y3 and yarn Y4 and the multi-pattern yarn Combination of combs woven to form a lace fabric with varied shading. Through the left or right offset of the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 by the corresponding number of needles, the formed NW x NL knitting structure contains the diagonal elements of the yarn offset, that is, the same yarn is in the When knitting in the longitudinal direction, the looping structure also offsets the corresponding number of needles before knitting. By adjusting the offset needle number of the yarn, different coverage rates of the yarn grid can be realized, and the permeability and air permeability of the whole unit can be adjusted. Therefore, the permeability of the fabric is adjusted, the air permeability of the holes is changed, and the warmth retention of the fabric is improved. As the values of N W and NL are different for the diagonal yarns, the direction of the laterally offset diagonal yarns is also different. In Figure 1, each horizontal grid is 1 stitch, and each vertical grid is 1 row.
所述底纹单元结构还包括采用纱线Y3、纱线Y4以衬纬结构经花纱梳栉编织而成的衬纬结构层,通过纱线Y1、纱线Y2走成圈结构,纱线Y3、纱线Y4走衬纬结构结合多把花纱梳栉编织形成多变化底纹的蕾丝织物。The shading unit structure also includes a weft-inserted structure layer woven with yarns Y3 and Y4 in a weft-inserted structure and warp yarn bars. , Yarn Y4 weft-inserted structure combined with multiple flower yarn combs to form a lace fabric with varied shading.
所述纱线Y1为直编链结构编织时,NW1=1,NL1=1;纱线Y2为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW2≥1,而12≥NL2≥1,NW1代表纱线Y1的偏移针数,NW2代表纱线Y2的偏移针数;NL1代表纱线Y1线圈所跨横列数,NL2代表纱线Y2线圈所跨横列数。When the yarn Y1 is woven with a straight chain structure, N W1 =1, N L1 =1; when the yarn Y2 is woven with a variable chain structure, 5≥N W2 ≥1, and 12≥N L2 ≥1, N W1 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y1, N W2 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y2; NL1 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y1, and NL2 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y2.
所述纱线Y1为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW1≥1,而12≥NL1≥1;纱线Y2为直编链结构编织时,NW2=1,而NL2=1,NW1代表纱线Y1的偏移针数,NW2代表纱线Y2的偏移针数;NL1代表纱线Y1线圈所跨横列数,NL2代表纱线Y2线圈所跨横列数。When the yarn Y1 is woven with a variable chain structure, 5≥N W1 ≥1, and 12≥N L1 ≥1; when the yarn Y2 is woven with a straight chain structure, N W2 =1, and NL2 =1, N W1 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y1, N W2 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y2; NL1 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y1, and NL2 represents the number of courses spanned by stitches of yarn Y2.
所述纱线Y1为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW1≥1,而12≥NL1≥1;纱线Y2为变化编链结构编织时,5≥NW2≥1,而12≥NL2≥1,NW1代表纱线Y1的偏移针数,NW2代表纱线Y2的偏移针数;NL1代表纱线Y1线圈所跨横列数,NL2代表纱线Y2线圈所跨横列数。When the yarn Y1 is knitted with a changing chain structure, 5≥N W1 ≥1, and 12≥N L1 ≥1; when the yarn Y2 is woven with a changing chain structure, 5≥N W2 ≥1, and 12≥N L2 ≥ 1, N W1 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y1, N W2 represents the number of offset stitches of yarn Y2; N L1 represents the number of courses spanned by the loops of yarn Y1, and N L2 represents the courses spanned by loops of yarn Y2 number.
对于纱线Y1的编织,可以采用不同的垫纱数码编织结构,如附图3所示,纱线Y1采用垫纱数码为0-1/1-0//的开口编链结构;如图4所示,纱线Y1采用垫纱数码为1-0/0-1//的开口编链结构;如附图5所示,纱线Y1采用垫纱数码为0-1/0-1//的闭口编链结构;如附图6所示,纱线Y1采用垫纱数码为1-0/1-0//的闭口编链结构。For the weaving of yarn Y1, different weaving structures of underlay numbers can be used. As shown in Fig. 3, yarn Y1 adopts an open chain structure with underlay numbers of 0-1/1-0//; as shown in Fig. 4 As shown in Fig. 5, the yarn Y1 adopts an open knitted chain structure with a yarn number of 1-0/0-1//; as shown in Fig. 5, the yarn Y1 adopts a number of pads of 0-1/0-1// As shown in Figure 6, the yarn Y1 adopts a closed-end braided chain structure with a yarn number of 1-0/1-0//.
对于纱线Y2的编织,可以采用不同的垫纱数码编织结构,如附图7所示,纱线Y2采用垫纱数码为0-1/1-0/0-1/1-2//的开口变化编链结构;如附图8所示,纱线Y2采用垫纱数码为1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2//的开口变化编链结构;如附图9所示,纱线Y2采用垫纱数码为0-1/0-1/0-1/1-2//的闭口变化编链结构;如附图10所示,纱线Y2采用垫纱数码为1-0/1-0/1-0/1-2//的闭口变化编链结构。For the weaving of yarn Y2, different weaving structures of underlay numbers can be used. As shown in Fig. 7, yarn Y2 adopts underlay numbers of 0-1/1-0/0-1/1-2// Open change braiding structure; as shown in Figure 8, the yarn Y2 adopts the open change braiding structure with the yarn number 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2//; as shown in Figure 9 As shown in Figure 10, the yarn Y2 adopts the closed change braided chain structure with the yarn number 0-1/0-1/0-1/1-2//; as shown in Figure 10, the yarn Y2 adopts the yarn number 1 -0/1-0/1-0/1-2// closed change chain structure.
纱线Y3可采用垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//的衬纬结构编织,如附图11所示;或者如附图12所示,采用垫纱数码为2-2/0-0//的衬纬结构编织。纱线Y4可采用垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//的衬纬结构编织,如附图13所示;或者纱线Y4可采用垫纱数码为1-1/0-0//的衬纬结构编织,如附图14所示。Yarn Y3 can be knitted with a weft-inserted structure with an underlay number of 0-0/2-2//, as shown in Fig. 11; or as shown in Fig. 12, with an underlay number of 2-2/0- 0// weft in weft structure. Yarn Y4 can be woven with a weft-inserted structure with the number of underlays 0-0/1-1//, as shown in Figure 13; or yarn Y4 can be knitted with numbers of underlays of 1-1/0-0// The weft-inserted structure is woven, as shown in Figure 14.
所述纱线Y1、纱线Y2均为长丝,线密度为10-150D;或者纱线Y1、纱线Y2均为氨纶,线密度为20-100D;或者纱线Y1、纱线Y2均为长丝与氨纶组成的复合纱,线密度为20-150D,其中长丝线密度为10-100D,氨纶线密度为10-70D。The yarns Y1 and Y2 are both filaments with a linear density of 10-150D; or both the yarns Y1 and Y2 are spandex with a linear density of 20-100D; or the yarns Y1 and Y2 are both The composite yarn composed of filament and spandex has a linear density of 20-150D, of which the linear density of the filament is 10-100D and the linear density of the spandex is 10-70D.
所述纱线Y3为长丝,线密度为20-140D;或者纱线Y3为氨纶弹性丝,线密度为20-280D;或者纱线Y3为长丝与氨纶组成的复合纱,线密度为20-150D,其中长丝线密度为10-100D,氨纶线密度为10-70D。The yarn Y3 is a filament with a linear density of 20-140D; or the yarn Y3 is a spandex elastic yarn with a linear density of 20-280D; or the yarn Y3 is a composite yarn composed of filament and spandex with a linear density of 20 -150D, in which the linear density of filament is 10-100D, and the linear density of spandex is 10-70D.
所述纱线Y4为氨纶弹性丝,线密度为70-560D;或者纱线Y4为长丝,线密度为30-280D。The yarn Y4 is a spandex elastic yarn with a linear density of 70-560D; or the yarn Y4 is a filament with a linear density of 30-280D.
在具体编织时,采用织针密度为每英寸28个的花边机编织而成,1、备料根据工艺要求合理选择织机及所用纱线后,由整经操作工按工艺单所示将原料备到盘头上,其中纱线Y1、Y2通过分层整经的方法备在同一套盘头上。若Y1、Y2为不同类型的纱线,为了便于织机生产,分层整经时须通过调节纱线Y1、Y2的拉伸模量并使得其张力差被控制在合理范围内。In the specific weaving, it is woven by a lace machine with a knitting needle density of 28 per inch. 1. After the loom and the yarn used are reasonably selected according to the process requirements, the warping operator prepares the raw materials according to the process sheet. To the pan head, where the yarns Y1 and Y2 are prepared on the same set of pan heads by the method of layered warping. If Y1 and Y2 are different types of yarns, in order to facilitate the production of the loom, the tensile modulus of the yarns Y1 and Y2 must be adjusted and the tension difference should be controlled within a reasonable range during layer warping.
2、穿纱,如附图1所示,通过分层整经后的纱线Y1、Y2由同一套盘头GB1分层提供,纱线Y1过横杆1后再过张力杆21,然后穿过分纱扣31,最后穿到梳栉Y1的导纱针41上,纱线Y2过横杆1后再过张力杆22,然后穿过分纱扣32,最后穿到梳栉Y2的导纱针42上。同理,其它套盘头上的纱线按工艺单所示穿到对应的梳栉的导纱针上。2. Threading, as shown in Figure 1, the yarns Y1 and Y2 after layered warping are provided in layers by the same set of pan heads GB1, and the yarn Y1 passes through the
3、调节张力及开机,所有纱线按要求穿好后挂出布头,再根据机上实际情况调节各套盘头上的纱线的张力,保证其在合理范围内。检查是否还有其它需处理的问题,待全部排除后可开机编织。3. Adjust the tension and start the machine. After all the yarns are worn as required, hang out the cloth head, and then adjust the tension of the yarns on each set of pan heads according to the actual situation on the machine to ensure that it is within a reasonable range. Check if there are other problems to be dealt with, and start knitting after all are eliminated.
如附图15所示,所述织物本体由长丝Y1走直编链结构、长丝Y2走变化编链结构、长丝Y3走衬纬结构、氨纶Y4走衬纬结构,再与多把花纱梳栉组合编织而成具有不同花型效果的有弹蕾丝织物。As shown in Figure 15, the fabric body consists of filament Y1 with a straight knitted chain structure, filament Y2 with a variable knitted chain structure, filament Y3 with a weft-inserted structure, and spandex Y4 with a weft-inserted structure. The elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects is woven by the combination of yarn combs.
如附图16所示,所述织物本体由长丝Y1走直编链结构、长丝Y2走变化编链结构,再与多把花纱梳栉组合编织而成具有不同花型效果的无弹蕾丝织物。As shown in Figure 16, the fabric body is composed of filament Y1 with a straight knitted chain structure, filament Y2 with a variable knitted chain structure, and then combined with multiple flower yarn combs to form non-elasticity with different pattern effects. Lace fabric.
如附图15所示,所述织物本体由氨纶Y1走直编链结构、氨纶Y2走变化编链结构、长丝Y3走衬纬结构、氨纶Y4走衬纬结构,再与多把花纱梳栉组合编织而成具有不同花型效果的有弹蕾丝织物。As shown in Figure 15, the fabric body is composed of a spandex Y1 straight knitted chain structure, a spandex Y2 with a variable knitted chain structure, a filament Y3 with a weft inlay structure, and a spandex Y4 with a weft inlay structure. Combination of combs woven into stretchy lace fabric with different pattern effects.
如附图16所示,所述织物本体由氨纶Y1走直编链结构、氨纶Y2走变化编链结构,再与多把花纱梳栉组合编织而成具有不同花型效果的有弹蕾丝织物。As shown in Figure 16, the fabric body is made of spandex Y1 with a straight knitted chain structure, spandex Y2 with a variable knitted chain structure, and then combined with multiple flower yarn combs to form elastic lace fabrics with different pattern effects .
如附图15所示,所述织物本体由复合纱Y1走直编链结构、复合纱Y2走变化编链结构、长丝Y3走衬纬结构、氨纶Y4走衬纬结构,再与多把花纱梳栉组合编织而成具有不同花型效果的有弹蕾丝织物。As shown in Figure 15, the fabric body is composed of a composite yarn Y1 with a straight knitted chain structure, a composite yarn Y2 with a variable knitted chain structure, a filament Y3 with a weft-insertion structure, and a spandex Y4 with a weft-inserted structure. The elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects is woven by the combination of yarn combs.
如附图16所示,所述织物本体由复合纱Y1走直编链结构、复合纱Y2走变化编链结构,再与多把花纱梳栉组合编织而成具有不同花型效果的有弹蕾丝织物。As shown in Figure 16, the fabric body is composed of a composite yarn Y1 with a straight knitted chain structure, a composite yarn Y2 with a variable knitted chain structure, and then combined with multiple flower yarn combs to form elastic elastics with different pattern effects Lace fabric.
本发明实施例在具体编织生产时,采用如下方式:The embodiment of the present invention adopts the following methods during the specific weaving production:
1、花编机所用纱线整经:1. Yarn warping used in flower knitting machine:
1)长丝和复合纱的整经:1) Warping of filament and composite yarn:
整经机机型:Karl Mayer DS 21/30NC-2,Warping machine model:
送经方式:消极式,Send-off method: passive,
整经温度:23℃,Warping temperature: 23℃,
整经湿度:65%,Warping humidity: 65%,
车间在上述温、湿度的条件下,设置整经工艺参数,并根据实际情况决定是否对纱线做加油处理。Under the above temperature and humidity conditions, the workshop sets the warping process parameters, and decides whether to add oil to the yarn according to the actual situation.
2)氨纶的整经:2) Warping of spandex:
整经机机型:Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30NC-2,Warping machine model: Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30NC-2,
送经方式:积极式,Delivery method: positive,
整经温度:24℃,Warping temperature: 24℃,
整经湿度:78%,Warping humidity: 78%,
车间在上述温、湿度的条件下,设置整经工艺参数。The workshop sets the warping process parameters under the above temperature and humidity conditions.
2、织造:2. Weaving:
机器型号:FJ83/1B。Machine model: FJ83/1B.
机号:E24。Machine number: E24.
3、穿纱方式及所用纱线:3. Yarn threading method and yarn used:
成圈梳栉Y1:满穿,PA6 20D/34F FD FDY,Circle bar Y1: fully worn, PA6 20D/34F FD FDY,
成圈梳栉Y2:满穿,PA6 20D/34F FD FDY,Circle bar Y2: fully worn, PA6 20D/34F FD FDY,
衬纬梳栉Y3:各一穿一空(贾卡梳栉),PA6 40D/68F FD FDY,Weft insertion bar Y3: each one is worn and one empty (Jacquard bar), PA6 40D/68F FD FDY,
衬纬梳栉Y4:满穿,PU 210D,Weft insertion bar Y4: full wear, PU 210D,
花纱梳栉:根据花型需要选纱、穿纱。Patterned yarn comb: yarn selection and threading according to the needs of the pattern.
4、生产流程:4. Production process:
平幅水洗→预定型→溢流染色→后整。Open width washing → pre-type → overflow dyeing → finishing.
需要说明的是,以上仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,尽管参照实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,其依然可以对前述实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改,或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换,但是凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。It should be noted that the above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the embodiments, those skilled in the art can still understand the foregoing implementations. The technical solutions described in the examples are modified, or some technical features thereof are equivalently replaced, but any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be included in the protection of the present invention. within the range.
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| JP2018003170A (en) * | 2016-06-27 | 2018-01-11 | 寺井レース有限会社 | Lace fabric for producing yarn, method for producing yarn, and yarn |
| CN107268171A (en) * | 2017-05-08 | 2017-10-20 | 江南大学 | A kind of multi-layer three-dimensional lace production method |
| CN209537756U (en) * | 2019-02-13 | 2019-10-25 | 广州市天海花边有限公司 | A kind of lace institutional framework of frivolous strong elasticity fabric |
| CN212505286U (en) * | 2020-06-09 | 2021-02-09 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | A lace fabric with varied shading |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2022110546A1 (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2022-06-02 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric for warm clothing |
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