WO2015166824A1 - シューズアッパー、およびシューズアッパーの編成方法 - Google Patents
シューズアッパー、およびシューズアッパーの編成方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2015166824A1 WO2015166824A1 PCT/JP2015/061895 JP2015061895W WO2015166824A1 WO 2015166824 A1 WO2015166824 A1 WO 2015166824A1 JP 2015061895 W JP2015061895 W JP 2015061895W WO 2015166824 A1 WO2015166824 A1 WO 2015166824A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- knitting
- shoe upper
- fabric portion
- instep cover
- Prior art date
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 45
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 145
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- 229920003235 aromatic polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
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Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0265—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
- A43B23/0275—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions with a part of the upper particularly rigid, e.g. resisting articulation or torsion
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
- D04B1/123—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0265—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
- A43D21/00—Lasting machines
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
- A43D21/00—Lasting machines
- A43D21/003—Lasting machines with lasting strings, stretching straps or the like, for forming the shank portions of shoes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/01—Surface features
- D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
- D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
- D10B2403/024—Fabric incorporating additional compounds
- D10B2403/0241—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a shoe upper and a knitting method thereof.
- the shoe includes a shoe upper having a sole cover portion that covers the sole of the wearer and an instep cover portion that covers a portion on the back side of the wearer.
- an outer shoe an outer sole made of synthetic resin or the like is attached to a sole cover portion of the shoe upper.
- the above shoe upper may be stretched by repeated use and lose its shape.
- a tube is formed in the instep cover portion, and a wire is inserted through the tube.
- the elongation of an instep cover part is suppressed by knitting an inlay knitting yarn in an instep cover part.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a shoe upper that does not easily stretch even after repeated use, and a method for knitting the shoe upper.
- the shoe upper according to the present invention relates to a shoe upper including an instep cover portion that covers a portion on the back side of the wearer.
- the shoe upper according to the present invention is provided integrally with the instep cover portion by knitting, and includes a line-shaped stretch preventing portion that suppresses the elongation of the instep cover portion.
- the stretch stop portion is inserted into the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion including the knitting yarn including the heat-sealing yarn and the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion, and fixed to the stitches constituting the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion by the tack. Insertion knitting yarn.
- the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion of the stretch stop portion is composed of an inner knitted fabric portion and an outer knitted fabric portion that overlap in the thickness direction of the instep cover portion, and the wale direction start end portion and the outer side of the inner knitted fabric portion.
- the knitted fabric portion is connected to the wale direction start end portion, and the inner knitted fabric portion is connected to the wale direction end portion and the outer knitted fabric portion is formed in a pipe shape.
- the knitting method of the shoe upper according to the present invention uses a flat knitting machine provided with one side needle bed and the other side needle bed facing each other, and without sewing an instep cover portion that covers a portion on the back side of the wearer.
- the present invention relates to a method for knitting a shoe upper to be knitted.
- the knitting method is a line-shaped extension preventing portion formed integrally with the instep cover portion during knitting of the instep cover portion, and overlaps in the thickness direction of the instep cover portion.
- the stretch preventing portion is knitted with an insertion knitting yarn to be fixed. Then, in the knitting of the stretch stop portion, the following steps ⁇ to ⁇ are performed. [Step ⁇ ] ... Knit the wale direction start end portion of the inner knitted fabric portion and the wale direction start end portion of the outer knitted fabric portion connected by the knitting yarn including the heat fusion yarn. [Step ⁇ ]...
- the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion are knitted with separate needle beds, and insert knitting yarns different from the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion are both knitted fabrics. Cross between the parts, and fix to the stitches of the inner knitted fabric portion or the outer knitted fabric portion by tucking. [Step ⁇ ] The wale direction end portion of the inner knitted fabric portion and the wale direction end portion of the outer knitted fabric portion are joined by knitting.
- the instep cover portion may be knitted according to the following conditions A and B, or may be knitted according to the following conditions C and D.
- the instep cover portion is knitted from the back side to the bottom side, or the instep cover portion is knitted from the bottom side to the back side.
- [Condition B] ...
- the left side portion and the right side portion of the instep cover section are knitted with the one side needle bed and the other side needle bed, respectively.
- the knitting method that satisfies the above conditions A and B has been described in Embodiment 1 and Modification 1-1 described later.
- the shoe upper of the present invention is difficult to stretch even after repeated use. That is, an extension stop portion composed of a pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion integrated with the instep cover portion by knitting and an insertion knitting yarn fixed to the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion by a tack is provided on the instep cover portion. This is because elongation is restrained. Since the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion is a thick knitted fabric portion composed of an inner knitted fabric portion and an outer knitted fabric portion that overlap in the thickness direction of the instep cover portion, it is difficult to stretch. The insertion knitting yarn fixed to the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion by the tack restrains the elongation of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion.
- the stretch preventing portion constituted by the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion and the insertion knitting yarn sufficiently exhibits the effect of suppressing the elongation of the instep cover portion.
- the inserted knitting yarn is not only caught on the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion by tack, but also fused to the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion by the heat-sealing yarn contained in the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion when the shoe upper is heat-treated. Therefore, the insertion knitting yarn and the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion are firmly integrated. For this reason, the inserted knitting yarn is not easily displaced inside the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion, and the shoe upper (instep cover portion) is not easily deformed.
- the stretch stop portion formed integrally with the instep cover portion extends in the length direction of the shoe upper or the length. It extends in a direction inclined with respect to the direction.
- the shoe upper instep The elongation in the length direction of the cover portion
- the stretch stop portion formed integrally with the instep cover portion extends in the height direction of the shoe upper or the height. It extends in a direction inclined with respect to the direction. According to such an anti-elongation part, it can suppress that a shoe upper (instep cover part) extends so that it may spread outward.
- the shoe upper of the present invention in which the stretch preventing part is integrated with the instep cover part can be knitted.
- FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective view of a shoe upper according to Embodiment 1.
- FIG. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram illustrating a knitting procedure of the shoe upper according to the first embodiment. It is a knitting process figure of the stretch stop part of a shoe upper.
- FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram illustrating a knitting procedure of a shoe upper according to a second embodiment.
- a two-bed flat knitting machine that includes at least one side needle bed and the other side needle bed facing each other in the front-rear direction and can transfer stitches between these needle beds is used.
- the flat knitting machine to be used may be a four-bed flat knitting machine.
- a shoe upper 1 shown in FIG. 1 includes a sole cover part 2 that covers a part of the sole of the wearer and an instep cover part 3 that covers a part on the back side of the wearer.
- the shoe upper 1 may further include an outer sole (not shown) outside the sole cover portion 2.
- the main feature of the shoe upper 1 of this embodiment is that the shoe upper 1 is provided with a line-shaped stretch preventing portion 4 and that the entire shoe upper 1 including the stretch preventing portion 4 is a knitted fabric that is knitted and integrally knitted. .
- each configuration of the shoe upper 1 will be described in detail.
- the sole cover portion 2 and the instep cover portion 3 are knitted fabrics formed by knitting.
- the direction of the stitches of the portions 2 and 3 varies depending on the knitting direction of the shoe upper 1.
- the knitting width direction of each part 2 and 3 is directed to the length direction (toe-heel direction) of the shoe upper 1, and the instep cover part at that time
- the direction of the third stitch is upward.
- the knitting width direction of each part 2, 3 is directed to the length direction of the shoe upper 1, and the direction of the stitches of the instep cover part 3 at that time is Downward.
- the shoe upper 1 of the first embodiment will be described below on the assumption that the shoe upper 1 is knitted from the bottom side toward the back side.
- the knitting from the upper side to the bottom side will be described in Modification 1-1.
- the sole cover portion 2 and the instep cover portion 3 may be seamlessly knitted without knitting, or may be knitted separately and then joined together by sewing or the like. In the present embodiment, the former configuration is adopted.
- the sole cover portion 2 and the instep cover portion 3 are preferably knitted with a fusion knitting yarn including a heat fusion yarn.
- a fusion knitting yarn including a heat fusion yarn By knitting the parts 2 and 3 with fusion knitting yarn, the shoe upper 1 can be three-dimensionally formed when the shoe upper 1 is heat-treated with a foot shape.
- the parts 2 and 3 can be knitted with non-fusion knitting yarns that do not contain heat-sealing yarns, or a part of the parts 2 and 3 can be knitted with fusion knitting yarns, and the remaining parts can be knitted with non-fusion knitting yarns. You can also
- the stretch stopper 4 is provided integrally with the instep cover 3 by knitting, and has a function of suppressing the stretch of the instep cover 3. As shown in FIG. 1, the design of the instep cover portion 3 (shoe upper 1) is made different from the color of the knitting yarn constituting the instep cover portion 3 as shown in FIG. It also contributes to improving.
- a plurality of anti-stretching portions 4 are provided on the left side portion 3L of the main body and the right side portion 3R of the right side portion of the instep cover portion 3.
- the extension of the instep cover part 3 can be effectively suppressed.
- some of the stretch stoppers 4 arranged on the heel side are inclined with respect to the length direction of the shoe upper 1, each stretch stopper portion 4 extends approximately in the length direction of the shoe upper 1. ing.
- it can suppress that the whole instep cover part 3 spreads outside by connecting the extension stop part 4 of 3 L of main bodies, and the extension stop part 4 of 3 R of main bodies.
- the stretch preventing portion 4 includes a pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 composed of a knitting yarn including a heat-sealing yarn, and a stitch that is inserted into the knitted fabric portion 40 and constitutes the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40. And an insertion knitting yarn 41 fixed by a tack.
- the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 includes an inner knitted fabric portion 40 i and an outer knitted fabric portion 40 o that overlap in the thickness direction of the instep cover portion 3.
- the wale direction start end portion of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i and the wale direction start end portion of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o are connected at the position indicated by the arrow head “a”, and the inner knitted fabric portion is indicated at the position indicated by the arrow head “b”.
- the pipe-shaped knitted fabric part 40 is formed in a pipe shape by connecting the 40i wale-direction terminal part and the outer knitted fabric part 40o of the wale direction terminal part.
- the knitting width direction of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 coincides with the extending direction of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40.
- the inward knitted fabric portion 40 i is a knitted fabric portion that connects portions separated in the wale direction in the instep cover portion 3, but may be regarded as a part of the instep cover portion 3.
- the number of steps of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o (the number of stitch rows arranged in the wale direction) is larger than the number of steps of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i. Therefore, the cross-sectional shape of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 is substantially D-shaped so as to protrude outward from the shoe upper 1. If it is the pipe-shaped knitted fabric part 40 of such a form, the pipe-shaped knitted fabric part 40 does not protrude inward of the instep cover part 3, and the inner peripheral surface of the instep cover part 3 is smooth. The comfort of the shoe upper 1 can be improved.
- the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 having the above configuration is knitted with the fusion knitting yarn including the heat fusion yarn as already described. This is because, by heat-treating the fusion knitting yarn, the heat fusion yarn is melted and solidified, and the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 that is difficult to stretch can be obtained. Further, by heat-treating the fusion knitting yarn of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40, an insertion knitting yarn 41 described later can be fused to the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40. 41 can be integrated.
- the inner knitted fabric portion 40i and the outer knitted fabric portion 40o constituting the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 are in close contact with each other, and a hollow portion is formed between the knitted fabric portions 40i and 40o. In some cases, there is no state. In that case, the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 and the insertion knitting yarn 41 are more firmly integrated, and the stretch preventing effect of the stretch preventing portion 4 is improved.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 inserted into the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 extends along the extending direction of the hole of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40, and the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 is separated at a predetermined interval.
- the stitches to be formed are fixed by tacks (in the round sectional view, the state fixed by the tacks is shown in a simplified manner).
- the interval between the tacks is not particularly limited.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 may be tucked into every 5 to 10 stitches in the knitting width direction of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40.
- the number of the insertion knitting yarns 41 inserted into the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 is not particularly limited.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 is fixed to the outer knitted fabric portion 40o in this example, but may be fixed to the inner knitted fabric portion 40i.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 may be inserted through the entire length of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 or may be inserted through a part of the entire length. Of course, when the insertion knitting yarn 41 is inserted over the entire length of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40, the stretch preventing effect by the stretch preventing portion 4 is easily improved.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 is composed of a high-strength knitting yarn that is difficult to stretch.
- a high-strength knitting yarn composed of nylon, polyester, aramid, polypropylene, carbon fiber, metal fiber, or the like can be used.
- the shoe upper 1 can be knitted by a knitting method of knitting from the bottom side of the shoe upper 1 toward the upper side. The procedure will be described based on the schematic diagram of FIG.
- the left side portion of the shoe upper 1 is shown, the right side portion of the shoe upper 1 is arranged on the back side of the paper, the left side portion is knitted with one side needle bed, and the right side portion is knitted with the other side needle bed.
- Bottom arrows indicate the knitting width direction.
- the Greek numerals circled in this schematic diagram indicate the knitting order of each part.
- a set-up portion (lower end line between the arrow heads “a”) extending over both the one side needle bed and the other side needle bed is knitted, and the sole cover portion 2 is knitted based on the set-up portion (Greek numerals) I organize part I).
- the left side portion (bottom left portion 2L) and the right side portion (bottom right portion 2R) of the sole cover portion 2 may be knitted with the one side needle bed and the other side needle bed, respectively.
- the ratio of the bottom left part 2L and the bottom right part 2L is not particularly limited.
- the body left portion 3L is knitted following the wale direction end portion of the bottom left portion 2L locked to the one side needle bed, and the wale direction end portion of the bottom right portion 2R locked to the other side needle bed Subsequently, the main body right part 3R is knitted.
- the sole cover portion 2 is not knitted integrally with the instep cover portion 3
- the left side portion 3L of the main body is knitted with the one side needle bed
- the right side portion 3R of the main body is knitted with the other side needle bed.
- the main body left part 3L and the main body right part 3R may be knitted based on the above.
- the main body left part 3L and the main body right part 3R can be knitted by appropriately combining C-shaped knitting and cylindrical knitting. That is, the main body left part 3L and the main body right part 3R are knitted alternately in a state where they are arranged in parallel in the opposing direction of the FB and the BB. At that time, the main body left portion 3L and the main body right portion 3R are connected to each other at the toe side and the heel side of the shoe upper 1.
- the Greek numeral III may be knitted mainly by a cylindrical knitting
- the Greek numerals V and VII may be knitted mainly by a C-shaped knitting.
- the stretch stop portion 4 (Greek numerals II, IV, VI, VIII, X, XII).
- the inclination angle of each stretch stopper 4 can be changed by adjusting the number of Greek numerals III, V, VII, IX, and XI. For example, by increasing the number of knitting on the heel side of the Greek numeral V portion than on the toe side, the inclination angle of the stretch stop portion 4 indicated by the Greek numeral VI can be increased.
- a detailed knitting method of the stretch stopper 4 will be described later with reference to the knitting process diagram of FIG.
- the part on the toe side (the upper end line between the arrow heads “b”) is joined by knitting, and the other parts
- the part is removed from the needle bed by end processing.
- the shoe upper 1 shown in FIG. 1 can be obtained by heat-treating the shoe upper 1 after knitting into a foot shape.
- the S + number in the left column indicates the knitting process number
- the right column indicates the locked state of the knitting needles on the needle bed.
- the circles in the right column indicate stitches
- double circles indicate double stitches
- inverted triangles indicate yarn feeders
- V-shaped marks indicate hooks or tacks
- thick arrows indicate the direction of transfer.
- the black dots indicate the knitting needles on one side needle bed (hereinafter referred to as FB) and the other side needle bed (hereinafter referred to as BB), and the capital letters indicate the positions of the knitting needles. It should be noted that the number of stitches is displayed less than the actual knitting.
- S0 shows a state in which the stitch of the left side 3L of the main body is locked to the knitting needle of the FB, and the stitch of the right side 3R of the main body is locked to the knitting needle of the BB.
- empty needles are not provided between adjacent stitches, but both the portions 3L and 3R may be knitted in a state where the stitches are locked on every other stitch (needle removal state).
- knitting of the pipe-shaped knitted fabric portion 40 is started within the knitting width of the main body left portion 3L.
- the yarn feeder 9 is moved to the left, and the knitting needles H, J, L, N, P, R, T, V of the FB and the knitting needles I, K, M, O, Q, S, BB of the BB
- the knitting yarn including the heat-sealing yarn is alternately fed to U and the wale direction start end portion of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o is formed on the FB, and the wale direction start end of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i is formed on the BB.
- a part is formed (corresponding to step ⁇ of the knitting method of the present invention).
- both portions 40i and 40o are connected by the same knitting yarn including the heat-sealing yarn.
- a yarn feeder different from the yarn feeder used for knitting the instep cover portion 3 is used as the yarn feeder 9, but the same yarn feeder as the yarn feeder used for knitting the instep cover portion 3 is used. Can also be used.
- the inner knitted fabric portion 40i is knitted with BB
- the outer knitted fabric portion 40o is knitted with FB (part of step ⁇ in the knitting method of the present invention).
- the knitting of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i and the knitting of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o are performed at least once. That is, each knitted fabric portion 40i, 40o may be performed a plurality of times.
- the number of steps of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o is larger than the number of steps of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i as shown in the circle cross-sectional view of FIG. 1, the number of knitting of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i.
- the number of knitting of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o is increased.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 is knitted using knitting yarns different from the two portions 40i, 40o (steps in the knitting method of the present invention). part of ⁇ ). Specifically, as shown in S5, the yarn feeder 8 is moved to the left, and the insertion knitting yarn 41 fed from the yarn feeder 8 is moved to the outer knitted fabric portion locked to the knitting needles P and J of the FB. Tuck into the 40o stitch. Further, in S6, the yarn feeder 8 is moved rightward, and the insertion knitting yarn 41 fed from the yarn feeder 8 is tucked into the stitches of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o locked to the knitting needles L, R of the FB. To do.
- the position where the insertion knitting yarn 41 is tucked and the number of insertions of the insertion knitting yarn 41 are not particularly limited. As the number of insertions increases, the effect of preventing the extension by the insertion knitting yarn 41 becomes higher. Further, the insertion knitting yarn 41 can be tacked to the inner knitted fabric portion 40i.
- the yarn feeder 9 is moved and the outer knitted fabric portion 40o is knitted with the FB.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 can be fixed to the outer knitted fabric portion 40o. It is also possible to omit S7 and perform S8 described later.
- the unit knitting in which the knitting of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i, the knitting of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o, and the knitting of the insertion knitting yarn 41 are taken as one unit can be repeated a plurality of times.
- the insertion knitting yarn 41 of the nth unit knitting can be fixed to the outer knitted fabric portion 40o by knitting the outer knitted fabric portion 40o of the (n + 1) th unit knitting.
- the wale of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i that is locked to the knitting needles I, K, M, O, Q, S, U of the BB.
- the direction end portion is transferred to the knitting needles H, J, L, N, P, R, and T of the FB.
- the knit is performed following the overlap of S8, whereby the wale direction end portion of the inner knitted fabric portion 40i and the wale direction end portion of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o can be connected (the present invention). Equivalent to step ⁇ of the knitting method).
- the stretch preventing portion 4 is formed with respect to the main body right portion 3R locked to the BB.
- the stretch preventing portion 4 may be formed with the knitting shown in S2 to S8 upside down. In this way, the two stretch stop portions 4 formed on the left and right sides of the instep cover portion 3 are sequentially knitted.
- the right end of the outer knitted fabric portion 40o in the knitting width direction is left on the needle bed.
- those hooks left on the needle bed are sequentially connected to the outer knitted fabric part 40o of the stretch preventing part 4 of the main body right part 3R. .
- the hole of the extension preventing part 4 of the main body left part 3L and the hole of the extension preventing part 4 of the main body right part 3R can be connected.
- the shoe upper 1 shown in FIG. 1 can be knitted in the direction opposite to the direction described in the first embodiment, that is, from the upper side to the bottom side. That is, the shoe upper 1 can be knitted in the order of Greek numerals XIII ⁇ I in FIG.
- a set-up portion corresponding to the upper end line between the arrow heads “b” is knitted, and the main body left portion 3L is knitted on one side needle bed based on the set-up portion, and the main body is set on the other side needle bed.
- the right part 3R is knitted. While the both parts 3L and 3R are knitted, the stretch preventing part 4 is knitted according to the knitting method illustrated in FIG.
- the bottom left part 2L is knitted following the end of the wale direction of the main body left part 3L locked to the one side needle bed, and the other side needle bed
- the bottom right portion 2R is knitted following the end portion of the right body portion 3R to be locked in the wale direction.
- the bottom left portion 2L and the bottom right portion 2R are joined together to complete the shoe upper 1.
- knitting is performed from the heel side to the toe side of the shoe upper 1 '. Specifically, the set-up portion corresponding to the lower end line between the arrow heads “a” is knitted, the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2 are knitted in the order of Greek numerals I to IX, and the stretch is prevented. Part 4 is organized. The bottom left part 2L and the main body left part 3L are knitted in parallel with each other on the one side needle bed, and the bottom right part 2R and main body right part 3R are knitted in parallel with each other on the other side needle bed. On the left side), the bottom left part 2L and the bottom right part 2R are connected by C-shaped knitting.
- the stretch stopper 4 is knitted by a knitting method similar to the knitting method illustrated in the knitting process diagram of FIG. Finally, the left and right portions of the shoe upper 1 'are connected at the position of the upper end line between the arrow heads "b" to complete the shoe upper 1'.
- the knitting width direction of the instep cover portion 3 is oriented in the height direction of the shoe upper 1 ′ (bottom-wearing mouth direction), and the stretch preventing portion 4 is approximately the height of the shoe upper 1 ′.
- Such a shoe upper 1 ′ can effectively suppress the outward extension of the shoe upper 1 ′ (instep cover portion 3).
- the method for setting up the heel, the shape of the heel, and how to close the toe are not particularly limited.
- the technique described in International Publication No. 2014/013790 can be used.
- the shoe upper 1 ′ shown in FIG. 4 can be knitted in the direction opposite to that of the second embodiment, that is, from the toe toward the heel. In that case, the knitting may be performed in the order of Greek numerals IX ⁇ I in FIG.
- the shoe upper 1 ' is knitted with the one side needle bed and the right side with the other side needle bed.
- the main body left part 3L and the main body right part 3R of the instep cover part 3 can be knitted in a state in which they are aligned in the longitudinal direction of the needle bed. Also in that case, the stretch stopper 4 formed on the instep cover 3 can be knitted by the same knitting method as the knitting method illustrated in the knitting process diagram of FIG.
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Abstract
Description
[工程α]…熱融着糸を含む編糸で繋がった内方編地部のウエール方向始端部と外方編地部のウエール方向始端部とを編成する。
[工程β]…内方編地部と外方編地部とをそれぞれ、別々の針床で編成すると共に、内方編地部と外方編地部とは異なる挿入編糸を両編地部の間に渡らせ、タックによって内方編地部の編目または外方編地部の編目に固定する。
[工程γ]…内方編地部のウエール方向終端部と、外方編地部のウエール方向終端部と、を編成によって接合する。
[条件B]…インステップカバー部の左側部分および右側部分はそれぞれ、一側針床および他側針床で編成する。
上記条件A,Bを満たす編成方法は、後述する実施形態1、変形形態1-1で説明している。
[条件D]…インステップカバー部の左側部分および右側部分はそれぞれ、一側針床および他側針床で編成する。
上記条件C,Dを満たす編成方法は、後述する実施形態2、変形形態2-1で説明している。
≪シューズアッパー≫
図1に示すシューズアッパー1は、着用者の足裏の部分を覆うソールカバー部2と、着用者の甲側の部分を覆うインステップカバー部3と、を備える。このシューズアッパー1はさらに、ソールカバー部2の外側に図示しないアウターソールを備えていても良い。この実施形態のシューズアッパー1の主たる特徴は、ライン状の伸び止め部4を備えること、この伸び止め部4を含むシューズアッパー1全体が無縫製で一体に編成された編地であることである。以下、シューズアッパー1の各構成を詳細に説明する。
ソールカバー部2とインステップカバー部3とは、編成によって形成される編地である。各部2,3の編目の向きは、シューズアッパー1の編成方向によって変化する。例えば、シューズアッパー1を底側から甲側に向かって編成する場合、各部2,3の編幅方向はシューズアッパー1の長さ方向(爪先-踵方向)に向き、そのときのインステップカバー部3の編目の向きは上向きとなる。一方、シューズアッパー1を甲側から底側に向かって編成する場合、各部2,3の編幅方向はシューズアッパー1の長さ方向に向き、そのときのインステップカバー部3の編目の向きは下向きとなる。本実施形態1のシューズアッパー1は、底側から甲側に向かって編成されたものとして以降の説明を行う。なお、甲側から底側に向かう編成については変形形態1-1にて説明を行う。
伸び止め部4は、インステップカバー部3に編成によって一体に設けられ、インステップカバー部3の伸びを抑制する機能を持つ。図1に示すように伸び止め部4を構成する編糸の色を、インステップカバー部3を構成する編糸の色と異ならせることで、インステップカバー部3(シューズアッパー1)のデザイン性を向上させることにも寄与する。
上記シューズアッパー1は、シューズアッパー1の底側から甲側に向かって編成する編成方法によって編成することができる。その手順を図2の模式図に基づいて説明する。模式図では、シューズアッパー1の左側部分が示され、紙面奥側にシューズアッパー1の右側部分が配置されており、左側部分は一側針床で編成され、右側部分は他側針床で編成される(両矢印は、編幅方向を示す)。また、この模式図における丸で囲ったギリシャ数字は各部位の編成の順番を示している。
伸び止め部4の基本的な編成方法の一例を、図3の編成工程図に基づいて説明する。図2に示すいずれの伸び止め部4も、図3の編成工程図と同様の編成方法によって編成することができる。
図3を参照した編成方法では、本体左部3Lに形成される伸び止め部4の編幅方向端部の孔と、本体右部3Rに形成される伸び止め部4の編幅方向端部の孔と、が繋がらない。これに対して、左右の伸び止め部4の孔を繋げることも可能である。具体的には、図3のS3からS4に移行する間など、外方編地部40oを編成するごとに、編針Vよりも右側の図示しないFBもしくはBBの編針に掛け目を形成しておく。それらの掛け目は、本体左部3Lの伸び止め部4が完成するまで針床に形成させたままとしておく。つまり、外方編地部40oの編幅方向右側端部を針床上に残しておく。そして、本体右部3Rの伸び止め部4を編成する際、針床に残しておいたそれらの掛け目を、本体右部3Rの伸び止め部4の外方編地部40oに順次接続していく。そうすることで、本体左部3Lの伸び止め部4の孔と、本体右部3Rの伸び止め部4の孔と、を繋げることができる。
図1に示すシューズアッパー1は、実施形態1で説明した方向とは逆方向、即ち甲側から底側に向かって編成することもできる。つまり、シューズアッパー1を、図2のギリシャ数字XIII→Iの順に編成することができる。その場合、アローヘッド“b”の間の上端ラインに相当する編出し部を編成し、その編出し部に基づいて一側針床で本体左部3Lを編成すると共に、他側針床で本体右部3Rを編成する。両部3L,3Rを編成する間に、図3に例示する編成方法に従って伸び止め部4を編成する。本体左部3Lと本体右部3Rの編成が終了したら、一側針床に係止される本体左部3Lのウエール方向終端部に続いて底左部2Lを編成すると共に、他側針床に係止される本体右部3Rのウエール方向終端部に続いて底右部2Rを編成する。最後に、底左部2Lと底右部2Rとを繋ぎ合わせ、シューズアッパー1を完成させる。
実施形態2では、シューズアッパー1’を針床上で縦向きに編成する例を、図4の模式図に基づいて説明する。模式図の見方は、図2の模式図と同様である。図中の両矢印は、インステップカバー部3の編幅方向を示す。
図4に示すシューズアッパー1’は、実施形態2とは逆向きに、即ち爪先から踵に向かって編成することもできる。その場合、図4のギリシャ数字IX→Iの順に編成を行えば良い。シューズアッパー1’の左側部分は一側針床で、右側部分は他側針床で編成する。
実施形態2、変形形態2-1とは異なり、インステップカバー部3の本体左部3Lと本体右部3Rとを針床の長手方向に並列させた状態で編成することもできる。その場合も、インステップカバー部3に形成する伸び止め部4は、図3の編成工程図に例示する編成方法と同様の編成方法によって編成することができる。
2 ソールカバー部 2L 底左部 2R 底右部
3 インステップカバー部 3L 本体左部 3R 本体右部
4 伸び止め部
40 パイプ状編地部 40i 内方編地部 40o 外方編地部
41 挿入編糸
8,9 給糸口
FB 一側針床 BB 他側針床
Claims (4)
- 着用者の甲側の部分を覆うインステップカバー部を備えるシューズアッパーにおいて、
前記インステップカバー部に編成によって一体に設けられ、前記インステップカバー部の伸びを抑えるライン状の伸び止め部を備え、
前記伸び止め部は、熱融着糸を含む編糸で構成されるパイプ状編地部と、前記パイプ状編地部の内部に挿通され、前記パイプ状編地部を構成する編目にタックによって固定される挿入編糸と、を備え、
前記パイプ状編地部は、前記インステップカバー部の厚み方向に重複する内方編地部と外方編地部とで構成され、前記内方編地部のウエール方向始端部と前記外方編地部のウエール方向始端部とが繋がり、前記内方編地部のウエール方向終端部と前記外方編地部のウエール方向終端部とが繋がることでパイプ状に形成されているシューズアッパー。 - 前記インステップカバー部の編幅方向がシューズアッパーの長さ方向に向いている請求項1に記載のシューズアッパー。
- 前記インステップカバー部の編幅方向がシューズアッパーの高さ方向に向いている請求項1に記載のシューズアッパー。
- 互いに対向する一側針床および他側針床を備える横編機を用いて、着用者の甲側の部分を覆うインステップカバー部を無縫製で編成するシューズアッパーの編成方法において、
前記インステップカバー部を編成する間に、前記インステップカバー部に一体に形成されるライン状の伸び止め部であって、前記インステップカバー部の厚み方向に重複する内方編地部と外方編地部とがパイプ状に繋がったパイプ状編地部と、そのパイプ状編地部の内部に挿通され、前記パイプ状編地部を構成する編目にタックによって固定される挿入編糸と、を備える伸び止め部を編成し、
その伸び止め部の編成では、
熱融着糸を含む編糸で繋がった前記内方編地部のウエール方向始端部と前記外方編地部のウエール方向始端部とを編成する工程αと、
前記内方編地部と前記外方編地部とをそれぞれ、別々の針床で編成すると共に、前記内方編地部と前記外方編地部とは異なる前記挿入編糸を両編地部の間に渡らせ、タックによって前記内方編地部の編目または前記外方編地部の編目に固定する工程βと、
前記内方編地部のウエール方向終端部と、前記外方編地部のウエール方向終端部と、を編成によって接合する工程γと、
を行うシューズアッパーの編成方法。
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EP3138431A1 (en) | 2017-03-08 |
EP3138431A4 (en) | 2018-02-14 |
TWI640261B (zh) | 2018-11-11 |
BR112016024812A2 (pt) | 2017-08-15 |
US9637847B2 (en) | 2017-05-02 |
CN106455753A (zh) | 2017-02-22 |
KR20170005021A (ko) | 2017-01-11 |
US20170065025A1 (en) | 2017-03-09 |
JPWO2015166824A1 (ja) | 2017-04-20 |
KR101903559B1 (ko) | 2018-10-02 |
JP6153659B2 (ja) | 2017-06-28 |
TW201603736A (zh) | 2016-02-01 |
EP3138431B1 (en) | 2019-04-17 |
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