WO2012131623A2 - Procédé de traitement cosmétique fractionné utilisant un laser ou des microaiguilles - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement cosmétique fractionné utilisant un laser ou des microaiguilles Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012131623A2
WO2012131623A2 PCT/IB2012/051525 IB2012051525W WO2012131623A2 WO 2012131623 A2 WO2012131623 A2 WO 2012131623A2 IB 2012051525 W IB2012051525 W IB 2012051525W WO 2012131623 A2 WO2012131623 A2 WO 2012131623A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
treatment
agents
skin
fractional
laser
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PCT/IB2012/051525
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English (en)
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WO2012131623A3 (fr
Inventor
Jean-Pascal Hirt
Anthony Potin
Yann Mahe
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of WO2012131623A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012131623A2/fr
Publication of WO2012131623A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012131623A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B18/203—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser applying laser energy to the outside of the body
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/69—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing fluorine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61M—DEVICES FOR INTRODUCING MEDIA INTO, OR ONTO, THE BODY; DEVICES FOR TRANSDUCING BODY MEDIA OR FOR TAKING MEDIA FROM THE BODY; DEVICES FOR PRODUCING OR ENDING SLEEP OR STUPOR
    • A61M37/00—Other apparatus for introducing media into the body; Percutany, i.e. introducing medicines into the body by diffusion through the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B18/201—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser with beam delivery through a hollow tube, e.g. forming an articulated arm ; Hand-pieces therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B2018/00315—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body for treatment of particular body parts
    • A61B2018/00452—Skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B2018/00315—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body for treatment of particular body parts
    • A61B2018/00452—Skin
    • A61B2018/0047—Upper parts of the skin, e.g. skin peeling or treatment of wrinkles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B2018/2005—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser with beam delivery through an interstitially insertable device, e.g. needle
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61M—DEVICES FOR INTRODUCING MEDIA INTO, OR ONTO, THE BODY; DEVICES FOR TRANSDUCING BODY MEDIA OR FOR TAKING MEDIA FROM THE BODY; DEVICES FOR PRODUCING OR ENDING SLEEP OR STUPOR
    • A61M37/00—Other apparatus for introducing media into the body; Percutany, i.e. introducing medicines into the body by diffusion through the skin
    • A61M2037/0007—Other apparatus for introducing media into the body; Percutany, i.e. introducing medicines into the body by diffusion through the skin having means for enhancing the permeation of substances through the epidermis, e.g. using suction or depression, electric or magnetic fields, sound waves or chemical agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61M—DEVICES FOR INTRODUCING MEDIA INTO, OR ONTO, THE BODY; DEVICES FOR TRANSDUCING BODY MEDIA OR FOR TAKING MEDIA FROM THE BODY; DEVICES FOR PRODUCING OR ENDING SLEEP OR STUPOR
    • A61M37/00—Other apparatus for introducing media into the body; Percutany, i.e. introducing medicines into the body by diffusion through the skin
    • A61M37/0015—Other apparatus for introducing media into the body; Percutany, i.e. introducing medicines into the body by diffusion through the skin by using microneedles
    • A61M2037/0061—Methods for using microneedles

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to systems and processes for treating human skin and more particularly, but not exclusively, to those for cosmetic purposes. It is known practice to combine several skin treatments. For example, patent application US 2000/0 192 438 describes a method for rejuvenating the skin via a treatment with ultrasound and iontophoresis or electrotherapy, combined with the administration of a chromophore for cosmetic or therapeutic treatment. It is especially known practice to envisage a pretreatment step before the application to the skin of a stimulus or a composition.
  • Patent application EP 1 281 394 describes a cosmetic skin treatment comprising the application of an exfoliant mask before a treatment with polarized light or a surface treatment using several infrared laser diodes illuminating simultaneously.
  • Patent application EP 2 181 732 describes a method for promoting the penetration of NGF into the skin, for example with a tattoo needle or pretreatment with an exfoliant composition.
  • a skin pre- or post-treatment may in particular be performed before or after a laser treatment.
  • Patent application EP 1 364 624 thus discloses a gel to be applied to the skin before a PTL (photothermo lysis laser) treatment and patent application FR 2 937 548 describes the cosmetic use of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium for preparing the skin of an individual before the application of a skin surface treatment.
  • patent application WO 2004/103 432 relates to a face mask for treating wounds caused by a laser treatment
  • patent application FR 2 913 602 describes a composition, for example in gel form, for treating the skin after a cosmetic or therapeutic laser treatment
  • patent application US 2008/0 183 250 concerns a device and a method for reconstructing the skin barrier after a medical or cosmetic treatment, for example by using a hydrogel comprising cellulose-based thickeners.
  • fractional treatment should be understood as meaning a painless, noninvasive discreet treatment that consists in targeting spaced-apart points so as to preserve intact areas of skin between the treated points, which will serve as a cicatrization reserve for rapid step-by-step repair starting from the areas of intact skin.
  • microneedles arranged in the form of a network which perforate the upper layers of the skin to create microholes that facilitate the penetration of active agents.
  • patent application US 2008/0 268 007 discloses a patch comprising such a biodegradable matrix of microprobes.
  • Another known technique is based on the use of a laser and an optical system which, for example, separates the ray emitted by a laser into a multitude of relatively fine rays that constitute a plurality of treatment points at the points of impact with the skin, said skin undergoing at each point of impact a photothermolysis that excavates a microwell, facilitating the penetration of active agents.
  • Patent applications US 2008/0 208 179 Al and WO 2008/053 198 describe a fractional laser treatment for reducing the skin barrier function while at the same time preserving the skin's capacity for protecting the body against infection by virtue of the numerous areas of skin left intact between the areas of impact of the laser.
  • fractional treatment is less aggressive than a treatment on a continuous area of skin, certain devices may nevertheless cause discomfort during their application.
  • the fractional treatment aids the action of cosmetic or therapeutic agents across the various layers of the skin in treatment wells where the skin barrier function is reduced, these points become temporarily more sensitive to any inflammatory effects caused by the deep application of certain active agents.
  • the application of certain compounds, for example in an acidic form, which might otherwise be beneficial, is possible only at a reduced depth with the existing fractional treatments, or even is impossible since it is too irritant.
  • the invention satisfies the needs of the prior art and makes it possible both to reduce the discomfort, or even the skin irritation, caused by a fractional treatment, and to extend the list of active agents that may be applied in combination with a fractional treatment by means of a process for treating human skin, in which an aqueous material, especially a hydrogel or biocellulose, is applied to the skin before and/or after the fractional treatment.
  • an object of the invention is also a cosmetic skin treatment process, not for therapeutic purposes, comprising the following steps:
  • an aqueous material comprising or constituted by a hydrogel and/or biocellulose.
  • the fractional treatment may treat the epidermis, or the epidermis and the dermis.
  • the material comprises or is constituted by biocellulose.
  • the fractional treatment may be performed using microneedles or, preferably, a laser, as is detailed hereinbelow.
  • An object of the invention is also an assembly comprising the material, in a hydrated form or a form to be hydrated extemporaneously, and at least one composition comprising an active agent to be applied after removing the material from the skin or serving to moisturize the material.
  • An object of the invention is also a material in sheet form for treating the skin, comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose and at least one active agent for exerting an action after a fractional skin treatment.
  • An object of the invention is also an assembly comprising the means for performing the fractional treatment, especially fractional laser, and at least one composition comprising an active agent to be applied to the treated skin and/or a material to be applied to the skin comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose.
  • the material to be applied to the skin contains the active agent.
  • aqueous material means a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable gelled material, with a content of greater than 50% by mass of water, at least at the moment when the material is in contact with the skin.
  • the material may comprise between 10% and 99%, or even between 50% and 99%), or even between 51% and 99%, or even between 70%> and 95% by mass of water, at least at the moment when the material is in contact with the skin.
  • the material affords an immediate soothing freshness effect, which may even be extended over time given its physicochemical characteristics, which reduces the discomfort caused by the fractional treatment, the presence of the material having a beneficial effect both on the localized heat and discomfort and/or on any redness and/or stinging produced by the fractional treatment.
  • the use of the material may facilitate the action of one or more active agents applied to the skin, and increase their deep-down biological effects, especially by diffusion into the epidermal or dermal microwells transiently generated by the treatment.
  • certain active agents may be applied to the skin in concentrations which, in the absence of application of the material, would have caused greater discomfort for the person undergoing the treatment.
  • the invention thus enables without any surgical intervention a deep-down remodelling and regenerative action, which is, paradoxically, very well tolerated.
  • the invention also makes it possible to use active agents which, for example on account of their acidity, would, in the absence of application of the material, also have caused the patient greater discomfort.
  • active agents which, for example on account of their acidity, would, in the absence of application of the material, also have caused the patient greater discomfort.
  • the presence of the aqueous material makes it possible to diffuse these active agents in the epidermal pores temporarily generated by the laser treatment and thus to improve their deep-down beneficial biological effects.
  • the material to be applied to the skin is preformed before application to the skin, i.e. it has mechanical cohesion that is sufficient to enable it to be manipulated as a single piece before being applied to the skin. This makes it possible to avoid having to manually spread a composition onto the skin at a moment when said skin may have increased sensitivity on account of the fractional treatment.
  • the material to be applied to the skin may be conditioned in hydrated form or may be hydrated extemporaneously.
  • the water or the composition serving to hydrate the material may be supplied to the user with the material in dehydrated form, for example in the same conditioning.
  • Biocellulose is a material obtained by a nutrient aqueous medium, of bacteria of the genus Acetobacter (also known as Gluconacetobacter) (Z. Gromet-Elhanan, S. Hestrin, Synthesis of cellulose by Acetobacter Xylinum, J. Bacteriol. 85, 284-292, 1963; US 5 962 277).
  • Acetobacter xylinum although others may also produce biocellulose, for example Acetobacter pasteurianus.
  • JP 70393886 discloses a process for manufacturing biocellulose.
  • Biocellulose is in particular known for its cicatrizing properties.
  • patent application US 2005/0 019 380 describes a dressing, especially for aesthetic purposes, comprising bio cellulo se .
  • Patent application FR 2 936 714 describes the use of a biocellulose patch comprising an energy source, in particular in LED form. Neither the use of fractional laser nor the use of microneedles is described in said document.
  • Biocellulose may be used in pure form or in a form combined with other types of fibre, for example fibres of natural origin, for example fibres derived from corn, hemp, flax, cotton, jute, kenaf, raffia, ramie, Panama-hat palm, sisal, rush, esparto grass, phormium, coconut, wool, silk, soya, abaca, kumazasa, persimmon, kapok, burdock, cereal or bamboo fibres.
  • fibres of natural origin for example fibres derived from corn, hemp, flax, cotton, jute, kenaf, raffia, ramie, Panama-hat palm, sisal, rush, esparto grass, phormium, coconut, wool, silk, soya, abaca, kumazasa, persimmon, kapok, burdock, cereal or bamboo fibres.
  • the biocellulose fibres may be loose or bound together and/or bound to other fibres.
  • Biocellulose may be used in sheet form, obtained, for example, by compacting a culture of biocellulose fibres, after rinsing them.
  • biocompatibility of biocellulose with the skin is ensured by a sterile manufacturing process.
  • the sterile biocellulose does not comprise any preserving agents.
  • it is advantageously conditioned in sterile form, especially in a hermetically sealed case.
  • the hydrogel may comprise a superabsorbent material.
  • superabsorbent material means a material with a very high capacity for absorbing a liquid, and especially water. In particular, it may have the capacity of absorbing at least 15 times or even 20 or 50 times its own weight of water, for example from about 25 to 30 times.
  • Patent application FR 2 876 587 describes a method for determining the absorption capacity of a superabsorbent material.
  • the superabsorbent material may be chosen from cellulose derivatives, alginates and derivatives thereof, especially derivatives such as propylene glycol alginate, or salts thereof such as sodium alginate or calcium alginate, polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid derivatives, polyacrylamide derivatives, polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives and polyvinyl ether derivatives, and mixtures thereof, inter alia.
  • the superabsorbent material may be chosen especially from chemically modified cellulose derivatives. It may be chosen especially from carboxymethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose, hydroxy ethylcellulose, hydroxy ethylethylcellulo se, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, sodium methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose and sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl celluloses may also be chosen from alkyl celluloses. These polymers are obtained by grafting an alkyl residue onto one or more hydroxyl groups of the cellulose polymer to form the hydroxyalkyl derivative. These alkyl residues may be chosen from stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, ricinoleyl and behenyl groups, and mixtures thereof. These hydroxyalkyl cellulose derivatives may also undergo a chemical modification with, for example, a carboxylic residue.
  • It may also be chosen from natural polymer derivatives, for instance gelatin and glucomannan and galactomannans polysaccharides extracted from seeds, plant fibres, fruit, marine algae, starch or plant resins, or alternatively of microbial origin. It may be chosen, for example, from agarose gum, guar gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, locust bean gum, gellan gum and xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
  • natural polymer derivatives for instance gelatin and glucomannan and galactomannans polysaccharides extracted from seeds, plant fibres, fruit, marine algae, starch or plant resins, or alternatively of microbial origin. It may be chosen, for example, from agarose gum, guar gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, locust bean gum, gellan gum and xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the superabsorbent material is a chemically modified cellulose derivative, especially carboxymethylcellulose.
  • the superabsorbent material comprises fibres. These fibres may be woven or bound together other than by weaving, for example via a bonding process used for the manufacture of nonwovens.
  • the fibres made of superabsorbent material may constitute at least 80% by weight, or even more, of the sheet material before impregnation with the liquid. For example, they may constitute at least 90%, or even at least 99% by weight, of the sheet material before impregnation with the liquid.
  • the sheet material be constituted essentially of such fibres. A high proportion of fibres may facilitate the production of a visually attractive effect at the time of use, the sheet material passing from an opaque state to a translucent or transparent state.
  • the hydrogel may comprise polyglutamic acid (Bio PGA solution from Ichimaru Pharcos).
  • the material to be applied to the skin is preferably in sheet material form at the time of use, especially a patch or mask.
  • the thickness of the sheet in the hydrated state is, for example, between 0.1 mm and 5 mm. When it is desired to prolong the cutaneous heat-absorbing effect, its thickness may be increased.
  • the sheet, in mask or patch form, may be refrigerated before being applied to the skin.
  • the mask or patch may be constituted exclusively by the hydrogel or biocellulose.
  • the sheet material comprises a support, for example a textile wrap or a foam made of thermoplastic material, containing the aqueous material or consolidating it.
  • the sheet material preferably comprises interlaced microfibrils, preferably biocellulose, the weight of which is between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use hydrated sheet material.
  • the sheet material may be preformed or precut, for example delivered to the user in the form of a face with openings for the eyes, the nose and/or the mouth.
  • the sheet material may be supplied to the user in wet form, optionally impregnated with a composition containing an active agent, it merely remaining for the user to apply it to the region to be treated.
  • the sheet material may have to be impregnated at the time of the use by pouring water or a composition onto it, or by placing the composition onto a region of skin and then applying the sheet material to this region of skin.
  • the sheet material may be conditioned in a sterile manner, individually or several together.
  • the sheet material may especially be conditioned in individual sachets.
  • the sheet material to be applied to the skin may be sold to the user with the means for achieving the fractional treatment, especially with the fractional laser.
  • the application of the material takes place at least after the fractional treatment, especially by fractional laser, and preferably intervenes within a time period after the end of the fractional treatment of less than or equal to 30 minutes, or even less than or equal to 15 minutes.
  • end of the fractional treatment should be understood as meaning the end of a treatment session, given that there are several sessions and that these sessions may be repeated at time intervals of several days, for example one or two weeks, or even two weeks to one month.
  • the material is preferably left in place for at least 5 minutes, or even at least 10 minutes, on the skin after it has been applied. According to one implementation example of the invention, the material is left in place for between 10 and 20 minutes after a fractional treatment session. According to another example, it is left in place for between 10 and 45 minutes after a fractional treatment session.
  • the material may also be applied before fractional treatment, and as a variant before and after fractional treatment.
  • the material is applied, for example, less than 30 minutes before, especially just before, the start of the fractional treatment, or between 5 minutes and 1 hour before, the material being left in place, for example, for between 5 and 45 minutes, or even between 10 and 20 minutes.
  • the zone that has undergone the fractional treatment preferably receives at least one active agent, which may benefit from a reduction of the skin barrier function in order to penetrate therein more easily.
  • the application of the material may or may not take place in combination with the application of an active agent.
  • the material may contain different active agents.
  • a first material contains an active agent intended to exert a peeling action, chosen, for example, from dioic acid, vitamin C and retinol, and combinations thereof
  • a second material containing a regenerative active agent, chosen, for example, from vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid, and combinations thereof.
  • the effect of the fractional laser treatment or other means for performing the fractional treatment may be potentiated by the application, to the treated skin, of a cosmetic composition with remodelling and/or regenerative action on the dermis and/or the epidermis and/or anti- ageing action and/or depigmenting action and/or antimicrobial action and/or antiacne action and/or calmative action.
  • Such a cosmetic composition comprises an active agent or a combination of active agents, the active agent(s) possibly being chosen from anti-ageing active agents, photoprotective active agents, active agents with moisturizing or immunomodulatory properties (including hydrating or humidifying active agents), active agents for improving the natural liquid barrier, free-radical-scavenging or antioxidant active agents, active agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, pain-attenuating active agents, regenerative active agents, surface-exfoliant active agents, anti-wrinkle active agents, tautening active agents, calmative active agents, anti-inflammatory active agents, sequestrant active agents and pH-regulating agents (acids or bases).
  • active agent(s) possibly being chosen from anti-ageing active agents, photoprotective active agents, active agents with moisturizing or immunomodulatory properties (including hydrating or humidifying active agents), active agents for improving the natural liquid barrier, free-radical-scavenging or antioxidant active agents, active agents for stimulating the synthesis
  • anti-ageing active agents mention may be made especially of food antioxidants, active agents with free-radical-scavenging properties and co factors of antioxidant endogenous enzymes: vitamin A, carotenoids, xanthophylls, isoflavones, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium or selenium, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) or taurine.
  • antioxidant endogenous enzymes vitamin A, carotenoids, xanthophylls, isoflavones, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium or selenium, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) or taurine.
  • SOD superoxide dismutase
  • taurine mention may be made especially of the unsaponifiable fractions extracted from lipids of plant origin, Aloe vera, native or hydrolysed marine collagen, and plant or marine oils rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids (including gamm
  • antioxidants and free-radical scavengers vitamin A, carotenoids, xanthophylls, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium and selenium, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) and probiotics.
  • probiotics an extract of Polypodium leucotomos, and plant or marine oils rich in ⁇ -3 and ⁇ -6 fatty acids, including gamma- lino lenic acid.
  • Humectants or moisturizers that may especially be mentioned include urea and derivatives thereof, especially 2-hydroxy ethyl urea sold under the name Hydro vance ® by National Starch, monosaccharides such as mannose, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers such as poly-2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine sold under the name Lipidure-HM ® by the company NOF Corporation, ⁇ -glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl ⁇ -glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a polyoxybutylene polyoxy ethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, for instance PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol- 8/5/3 glycerol distributed under the name Wilbride S-753L ® from NOF Corporation, a musk rose oil sold by Nestle; collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard
  • ceramides include natural or synthetic ceramides and/or glycoceramides and/or pseudoceramides and/or neoceramides, and derivatives thereof.
  • Compounds of ceramide type are described, for example, in patent applications DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95/23807, WO 94/07844, EP 0 646 572, WO 95/16665, FR 2 673179, EP 0 227 994, WO 94/07844, WO 94/24097 and WO 94/1013.
  • Compounds of ceramide type especially include the ceramide is and/or glycoceramides whose structure is described by Downing in the Journal of Lipid Research Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those described in French patent application FR-2 673 179.
  • Use may also be made of specific mixtures, for instance mixtures of ceramide(s) 2 and of ceramide(s) 5 according to the Downing classification.
  • Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (I) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Questamide H (bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide) sold by the company Quest, and cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2- hydroxypropyl)amide.
  • Use may also be made of N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine described in patent application WO 94/24097. Use may also be made of the compound of general formula (II) described in patent applications EP A-500 437 and EP A-547 617.
  • the compounds of ceramide type include N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine or N-2- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, and preferably N-2- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.
  • Preferred antioxidants that may be mentioned more particularly include tocopherol and esters thereof, in particular tocopheryl acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA and N,N'-bis(3,4,5- trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • chelating agents such as BHT, BHA and N,N'-bis(3,4,5- trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • free-radical scavenging or antioxidant active agents mention may be made of polyphenols and in particular flavonoids, flavonols, anthocyanidins and flavanols.
  • chlorogenic acid examples include chlorogenic acid, procyanidins Bl and B2, epicatechin, phloretin, phloridzin (glycosyl derivative of phloretin), hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin and p-coumaric acid.
  • An antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, especially a carotenoid chosen from ⁇ - carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 may be used in particular.
  • a carotenoid chosen from ⁇ - carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 may be used in particular.
  • peptides extracted from plants such as the soybean hydrolysates sold by the company BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine ® the malt extract as sold under the trade name Collalift ® by the company Engelhard Lyon
  • rice peptides such as Nutripeptide ® from Silab, or alternatively a rice peptide extract such as Colhibin ® Pentapharm DSM, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C ® sold by Exsymol
  • an extract of Vaccinium myrtillus such as the products described in patent application FR-A-2 814 950
  • the lupin extract sold by the company Silab under the trade name Structurine ® , and mixtures thereof.
  • an extract of Iris a spring water (including la Roche Posay spring water), lidocaine, prilocaine and a mixture of lidocaine and prilocaine.
  • regenerative active agents use may be made of vitamin C, retinol or a retinol derivative.
  • salicylic acid lactic acid, dioic acid or octadecenedioic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, jasmonic acid, urea or 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • anti-wrinkle active agents use may be made of desquamating agents; antiglycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation; agents for stimulating fibroblast and/or keratinocyte proliferation; agents for stimulating or reducing keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-decontracting agents; free- radical scavengers; and mixtures thereof.
  • adenosine, retinol and derivatives thereof such as retinol palmitate, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and precursors thereof, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described especially in patent application EP-1 345 919; plant extracts and especially extracts of sea fennel and of olive leaf, and also plant proteins and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice or soybean protein hydrolysates; algal extracts and in particular laminaria extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular of wild
  • tautening agent that may be used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention means compounds liable to have a tautening effect, i.e. being able to make the skin taut. Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 2 026 882.
  • additional anti-wrinkle active agents that may be used according to the invention are: ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and precursors thereof, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C- glycoside compounds and derivatives thereof, as especially described below; plant extracts and especially extracts of sea fennel and of olive leaf, and also plant proteins and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice or soybean protein hydrolysates; algal extracts and in particular laminaria extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular of wild yam, containing the same; a-hydroxy acids; ⁇ - hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5-n-
  • pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts e.g.: Glycyrrhiza glabra
  • plant extracts e.g.: Glycyrrhiza glabra
  • ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid and salts and/or derivatives thereof glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic acid
  • ursolic acid and salts thereof oleanolic acid and salts thereof, betulinic acid and salts thereof
  • an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and/or lactiflora salicylic acid salts and in particular zinc salicylate
  • phycosaccharides from the company Codif an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts of camomile, allantoin, Sepivital EPC (phosphosaccharides from
  • anti-inflammatory active agents use may be made of glycyrrhetic acid,
  • KPV tripeptide or a derivative of KPV tripeptide, a phycosaccharide, an extract of rose, vitamin B3, procysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid is included in the trade.
  • sequestrant active agents use may be made of polyaspartic acid or a salt thereof, a cellulose derivative (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose), copolymers containing hydroxysuccinic acid monomer units and maleic acid monomer units, or salts thereof.
  • a cellulose derivative e.g. carboxymethylcellulose
  • copolymers containing hydroxysuccinic acid monomer units and maleic acid monomer units or salts thereof.
  • acid pH-regulating agent use may be made of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid or salicylic acid.
  • base pH-regulating agent use may be made of disodium phosphate or sodium hydroxide.
  • active agents that are conventionally used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may be made of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, D, E and PP, niacin, carotenoids, polyphenols, minerals and trace elements, phytoestrogens, proteins and amino acids, mono- and polysaccharides, amino sugars, phytosterols and triterpenic alcohols of plant origin.
  • the minerals and trace elements that may be included in a cosmetic composition used according to the invention include the products zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium and chromium (III).
  • polyphenols from grape, from tea, from olive, from cocoa, from coffee, from apple, from blueberry, from elderberry, from strawberry, from cranberry and from onion are also selected in particular.
  • isoflavones in free or glycosylated form such as genistein, daidzein or glycitein, or lignans, in particular those from flax and from Schizandra chinensis, are selected.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise amino acids or peptides and proteins containing them, such as taurine, threonine, cysteine, tryptophan and methionine.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise a lipid or a mixture of lipids.
  • the lipids preferably belong to the group of oils containing monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha- linolenic acid, gamma- lino lenic acid, stearidonic acid, long-chain fish omega-3 fatty acids such as EPA and DHA, and conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals such as CLA (conjugated linoleic acid).
  • monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha- linolenic acid, gamma- lino lenic acid, stearidonic acid, long-chain fish omega-3 fatty acids such as EPA and DHA, and conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals such as CLA (conjugated linoleic
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more active agents chosen from a prebiotic or a mixture of prebiotics. More particularly, these prebiotics may be chosen from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums of acacia type, for example, or a mixture thereof.
  • the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructo- oligosaccharide. More particularly, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo- oligosaccharide and of inulin.
  • hydrophilic active agents proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially of C 2 to Cio, for instance glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, and bacterial or plant extracts, for instance those from Aloe vera.
  • retinol and derivatives thereof
  • tocopherol vitamin E
  • ceramides essential oils and unsaponifiable materials (tocotrienol, sesamine, gamma-oryzanol, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes and terpenes) may be used.
  • ⁇ - hydroxy acids in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid); a-hydroxy acids, such as gly colic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea and certain derivatives thereof; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; dioic acid, extract of Saphora japonica; resveratrol, detergents and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;
  • ⁇ - hydroxy acids in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid); a-hydroxy acids, such as gly colic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea and certain derivatives thereof; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; dioic acid, extract of Saphora japonica;
  • ⁇ and/or on the activities of enzymes involved in the degradation of corneodesmosomes such as stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE), or even other proteases (trypsin-like, chymotryptic-like, cathepsin D) and also other categories of hydrolases (e.g.: glycosidases, ceramidases).
  • SCCE stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme
  • hydrolases e.g.: glycosidases, ceramidases.
  • mineral salt chelating agents such as EDTA; N-acyl-N,N',N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2- ethane)sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) derivatives; derivatives of alpha-amino acids of glycine type (as described in EP 0 852 949, and also sodium methyl glycine diacetate sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M ® ); honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine; urea certain derivatives thereof, for example Hydrovance; C-glycoside derivatives.
  • mineral salt chelating agents such as EDTA; N-acyl-N,N',N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminosul
  • a cosmetic composition that is useful for performing the process according to the invention may, in certain embodiments, comprise one or more proteins and/or one or more peptides that are capable of preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of the skin, such as plakoglobin or peptides derived from this protein, the protein HSP 27 (heat shock protein 27, also known as HSPB1 in man) or peptides derived from this protein, the protein lacritin or peptides derived from this protein, the protein CLSP (calmodulin-like skin protein) or peptides derived from this protein, and the protein desmoglein I (or DGI) or peptides derived from this protein.
  • HSP 27 heat shock protein 27, also known as HSPB1 in man
  • CLSP calmodulin-like skin protein
  • DGI protein desmoglein I
  • a cosmetic composition that is useful for performing the process according to the invention may, in certain embodiments, comprise one or more probiotic microorganisms, such as microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium or Lactobacillus, or a lysate or a fraction derived from the said microorganisms.
  • probiotic microorganisms such as microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium or Lactobacillus, or a lysate or a fraction derived from the said microorganisms.
  • the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium may be chosen from the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof.
  • the microorganisms of the genus Lactobacillus may be chosen from the following species: Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus and mixtures thereof.
  • microorganisms or extracts of microorganisms may be used for their properties for stimulating antimicrobial defences and/or stimulating the endogenous antioxidant defences, for instance SOD2.
  • compositions according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally available for the selected mode of administration.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the solution type or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi- liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), or vice versa (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream type, emulsified or clear, aqueous-alcoholic nonaqueous- alcoholic aqueous or anhydrous gels, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles and nanoparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.
  • compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics and/or dermatology.
  • the emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.
  • galenical forms intended for topical administration may also contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and/or dermato logical field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs.
  • adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and/or dermato logical field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase and/or into the aqueous phase.
  • mineral oils for instance hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly
  • plant oils for instance a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernel oil
  • animal oils for instance perhydrosqualene
  • synthetic oils especially purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethylhexyl palmitate
  • unsaturated fatty acids and fluoro oils for instance perfluoropolyethers.
  • fatty alcohols fatty acids, for instance stearic acid, and, for example, waxes, especially paraffin wax, carnauba wax and beeswax.
  • silicone compounds for instance silicone oils and for example cyclomethicone and dimethicone, and silicone waxes, resins and gums.
  • emulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 33 mol of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO ® by the company Henkel, the mixture of PEG-6/PEG-32/glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose ® 63 by the company Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and sorbitan monostearate or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate and oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate.
  • glyceryl stearate polysorbate 60
  • a composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a spring and/or mineral water, chosen especially from Vittel water, waters from the Vichy basin and la Roche Posay water.
  • Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides and especially the mixture of polyacrylamide, CI 3- 14 isoparaffin and laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305 ® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides, for instance cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses and in particular hydroxypropyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, natural gums such as guar gum, locust bean gum and xanthan gum, and clays.
  • carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides and especially the mixture of polyacrylamide, CI 3- 14 isoparaffin and laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305 ® by the company SEPPIC
  • polysaccharides for instance cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl
  • Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified clays, for instance bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, for instance aluminium stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethyl cellulose and polyethylene.
  • a cosmetic composition may also contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs, surfactants, polymers, oils, emollients, thickeners or complexing agents, this list not being limiting.
  • adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs, surfactants, polymers, oils, emollients, thickeners or complexing agents, this list not being limiting.
  • compositions according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
  • a cosmetic composition suitable for implementation of the process according to the invention comprises at least one active agent chosen from Pro-Xylane ® (C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane), jasmonic acid, hydroxy) ' asmonic acid, Prolastyl ® ( ⁇ 2-acetyl-3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino)-3- methylbutyrylamino ⁇ acetic acid), resveratrol, resveratrol glucoside, ferulic acid, phloretin, a ceramide, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, vitamin C, ethylvitamin C, vitamin E, hesperidin and neohesperidin.
  • active agent chosen from Pro-Xylane ® (C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane), jasmonic acid, hydroxy) ' asmonic acid, Pro
  • the said cosmetic composition comprises a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid.
  • the said cosmetic composition is preferentially in the form of a solution.
  • a cosmetic composition of this type may comprise at least 10% by weight of vitamin C, at least 0.5% by weight of vitamin E and at least 0.1% by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the application of the aqueous material after fractional treatment takes place at the same time as the application of the cosmetic or dermatological active agent, for example by means of a sheet material containing both the hydrogel and/or biocellulose and the active agent being applied to the zone that has undergone the fractional treatment.
  • a biocellulose mask is applied to the skin after fractional treatment, this biocellulose mask containing at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent, for example a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid.
  • the fractional treatment especially by fractional laser, is performed, and the aqueous material is then applied and, after removing the material, the active agent is applied.
  • the process according to the invention comprises the oral intake of a food additive and/or a probiotic intended to have a cosmetic action, for example skin-regenerative and/or anti-ageing and/or calmative action, this list not being limiting.
  • microorganisms that are suitable for use in the invention are microorganisms that may be administered without risk to man or animals.
  • non- probiotic microorganisms mention is made of the Vitreoscilla filiformis bacteria especially as described in patent applications FR 2 879 452 and FR 2 914 189.
  • probiotic microorganisms are Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium longum, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus casei subsp. Casei, Lactobacillus casei Shirota, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp.
  • Lactis Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococccus carnosus, and Staphylococcus xylosus, and mixtures thereof.
  • microorganisms may be formulated in the form of powders, i.e. in a dry form, or in the form of suspensions or solutions.
  • these microorganisms may be formulated within the compositions according to the invention in an encapsulated form so as to significantly improve their survival time.
  • the presence of a capsule may in particular retard or prevent the degradation of the microorganism in the gastrointestinal tract.
  • the species that are most particularly suitable for use are Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Bifidobacterium adolescentis and Bifidobacterium longum, which were deposited, respectively, according to the treaty of Budapest, at the Institut Pasteur (28, rue du Dondel Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) on 06/30/92, 01/12/99, 04/15/99 and 04/15/1999 under the following designations CNCM 1-1225, CNCM 1-2116, CNCM 1-2168 and CNCM 1-2170, and the species Bifidobacterium lactis (Bb 12) (ATCC27536) or Bifidobacterium longum (BB536).
  • the strain of Bifidobacterium lactis (ATCC27536) may be obtained from Hansen (Chr. Hansen A/S, 10-12 Boege Alle, P.O. Box 407, DK-2970 Hoersholm, Denmark).
  • the composition may comprise at least two microorganisms, especially probiotic microorganisms, and/or various metabolites and/or fractions.
  • the concentration of microorganism(s), especially probiotic microorganisms may be adjusted so as to correspond to doses (expressed as microorganism equivalents) ranging from 5x 10 5 to 10 13 cfu/day and in particular from 10 7 to 10 11 cfu/day.
  • microorganism(s) may be included in the composition according to the invention in a live, semi-active or inactivated, dead form.
  • oral compositions and especially of food supplements are possible. They are formulated via the usual processes for producing coated tablets, gel capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules or solutions.
  • the active agent(s) according to the invention may be incorporated into any other form of food supplements or enriched foods, for example food bars, or compacted or non- compacted powders.
  • the powders may be diluted with water, in soda, dairy products or soybean derivatives, or may be incorporated into food bars.
  • the active agents according to the invention may be formulated with the usual excipients and components for such oral compositions or food supplements, i.e. especially fatty and/or aqueous components, humectants, thickeners, preserving agents, texture agents, taste agents and/or coating agents, antioxidants, preserving agents and dyes that are common in the food sector.
  • excipients and components for such oral compositions or food supplements i.e. especially fatty and/or aqueous components, humectants, thickeners, preserving agents, texture agents, taste agents and/or coating agents, antioxidants, preserving agents and dyes that are common in the food sector.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic skin treatment process, not for therapeutic purposes, following a fractional skin treatment, comprising the following steps:
  • a material comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose
  • an active agent preferably having epidermal and/or dermal regenerative action, depigmenting action, antiacne action, action intended to make the hair grow, hair-removing action, antidandruff action when it is on the scalp, exfoliants action, calmative action, stimulating the action on epidermal and/or dermal moisturization, especially hyaluronane synthase, inhibitory action on hyaluronidases and dermal regenerative or protective action especially by activating collagen and elastin syntheses and/or collagenase and elastase inhibitors and/or activating tissue and endogenous inhibitors of these proteases, or slimming action, the active agent being chosen especially from those described above.
  • the fractional treatment may be performed using microneedles.
  • the microneedles may be solid (hollow or not hollow), for the purpose of microperforation, or soluble, enabling the ends to break off after perforation and formation of microimplants with gradual dissolution over time.
  • the microneedles may thus comprise an orifice for administering a composition containing an active agent as described above, or may be devoid of an orifice, the active agent then being deposited onto the surface of the microneedles as described in WO 2007/061 964.
  • the microneedles may also be used as skin microperforators, facilitating the subsequent application of one or more active agents.
  • Soluble microneedles are described in the publications WO 2004/000 389, US 6 945 952, WO 2004/024 224, JP 2005/154321, WO 2007/023 167, US 2005/0 065 463 and WO 03/092 785.
  • the constituent material of the microneedles which is claimed in JP 2005/154 321 is a mixture of maltose with a dextran or trehalose.
  • WO 2007/023 167 describes microneedles based on a copolymer of lactic and gly colic acids. In this case, the constituent material acts solely as the inert excipient, intended to promote the release of the active agent.
  • US 2005/0 065 463 especially teaches that the active agent is dispersed in the sugar matrix, preferentially homogeneously.
  • WO 03/092 785 describes a combination of calcium phosphate with certain sugars to form microneedles in order to incorporate into the calcium phosphate pores biologically active molecules.
  • the laser is preferred for performing the fractional treatment.
  • a fractional laser affects the surface of the stratum corneum so as to create by local photothermo lysis a plurality of spaced-apart pores in the upper layers of the skin.
  • the fractional laser is non-ablative, this type of laser also been known as a remodelling fractional laser.
  • the increase in the permeability of the skin associated with the formation of the microwells by laser is reversible.
  • the permeability may, for example, be increased for at least 1 hour, or even 2 hours, 6 hours, 12 hours, 1 day, 2 days or 5 days.
  • the laser may comprise a motorised scanner that comprises one or more rotary mirrors whose rotation speed causes scanning of the laser spot.
  • the scanning may take place along different paths: circular, rectangular or square scanning, or random scanning.
  • the fractional laser treatment may comprise several successive passes of the laser over a given area so as to obtain better homogeneity of the treatment. On each pass, new points of impact are created, spaced from the previous points of impact.
  • An example of a non-ablative fractional laser is the machine sold by the company Solta under the brand name Fraxel re:store ® Dual (1927 nm).
  • fractional lasers are described in patent application US 2008/0 208 179 Al, especially in paragraphs [0104] to [0116]. The values indicated in these passages are applicable to the present invention.
  • the wavelength of the fractional laser is preferably in the IR range and may especially be between 1100 nm and 2500 nm. In implementation examples of the invention, the wavelength is equal to 1410 nm, 1435 nm, 1550 nm or 1927 nm.
  • the treatment depth may be between 200 ⁇ and 1.4 mm, better still 700 ⁇ and 1.4 mm.
  • the treatment depth is, for example, about 555 ⁇ , 794 ⁇ or 1120 ⁇ .
  • the size of a microwell ranges, for example, from 0.5 ⁇ in diameter to 500 ⁇ in diameter. Preferably, the size ranges from 50 to 350 ⁇ .
  • the density of the microwells (also known as pores) created by the fractional treatment is, for example, between 100 and 10 000 microwells per cm 2 and better still between 100 and 2000.
  • the irradiance which measures the power density received by the skin to be treated, is preferably between 25 kW/cm 2 and 4 MW/cm 2 .
  • the fluence of the laser treatment which measures the energy density received on the area of skin to be treated, is preferably between 4 kJ/cm 2 and 160 kJ/cm 2 .
  • the energy of a laser pulse to create a microwell ranges, for example, from 0.1 mJ to 50 mJ.
  • the laser is a Fraxel re: store ® Dual laser user with a wavelength of 1927 nm and a power per pulse of 10 mJ.
  • the fractional treatment when it is performed using a fractional laser, may comprise the step consisting in emitting the laser radiation through a thickness of the aqueous material, especially biocellulose.
  • the choice of the thickness of the material through which the laser radiation passes may be made, for example, as a function of the power of the laser radiation and of the desired treatment depth.
  • the thickness of the material may be, for equivalent laser power, increased so as to reduce the penetration of the laser radiation into the skin.
  • Several sheet materials of different thicknesses may be proposed to the user in order to enable him to choose the thickness that is suitable for the treatment to be performed.
  • the invention makes it possible to treat the face, especially the area around the eyes, the cheeks, the lips or any other part of the body, especially the neckline or the hands, and also thinned areas of the scalp, or the armpits.
  • An object of the invention is also a treatment system for performing a process according to the invention, comprising a treatment assembly comprising the material to be applied to the skin, either in hydrated form or in a form to be hydrated extemporaneously, and a means for performing the fractional treatment, for example microneedles or a fractional laser.
  • the fractional laser is proposed to the user with the hydrogel and/or the active agent within the same conditioning.
  • the area of skin that has undergone the fractional treatment may be exposed to a light treatment that does not generate any significant increase in the temperature of the skin.
  • This light treatment may also be performed before the fractional treatment.
  • the light is monochromatic at ⁇ 10 nm, preferably with a wavelength of 592 nm ⁇ 10 nm.
  • the fluence of the additional light treatment is, for example, less than or equal to 5 J/cm 2 and better still 0.5 J/cm 2 .
  • the light power received, excluding the fractional treatment, on the area of treating skin is, for example, between 1 mW/cm 2 and 50 mW/cm 2 .
  • the light may be emitted in pulsed manner, the duration of each light pulse being between 100 and 250 milliseconds.
  • the pulsed light may comprise, for example, 100 pulses of 250 ms of light, with 100 ms of extinction between each pulse, over a treatment phase of at least 30 seconds, for example 35 seconds.
  • This additional treatment may be performed by placing in front of the area to be treated one or more light sources which emit at the desired wavelength, for example several LEDs arranged on a panel placed in front of the area to be treated, without coming into contact with it.
  • the treatment may also be performed with a device brought very close to the area to be treated, for example forming a mask or patch to be placed in contact with the area to be treated and comprising an artificial source of electromagnetic energy, so as to submit the skin to such a light radiation, in particular one or more electroluminescent components such as pulsed or non-pulsed LED or OLED diodes.
  • a device brought very close to the area to be treated, for example forming a mask or patch to be placed in contact with the area to be treated and comprising an artificial source of electromagnetic energy, so as to submit the skin to such a light radiation, in particular one or more electroluminescent components such as pulsed or non-pulsed LED or OLED diodes.
  • OLED may make it possible to produce a flexible support that is capable of conforming to the relief of the area to be treated.
  • the emission of light may take place through the sheet material comprising or constituted by the hydrogel.
  • a subject of the invention is thus also, according to another of its aspects, a device to be applied to the skin (including the lips), comprising:
  • a sheet material comprising biocellulose, in particular constituted by biocellulose, to be brought into contact with the skin.
  • the source of light energy may comprise at least one electroluminescent component of LED or OLED type, as mentioned above.
  • FIG. 1 shows an example of a treatment system according to the invention
  • FIG. 5 shows, in partial diagrammatic cross section, in example of sheet material intended to be applied against the area of skin to be treated.
  • the treatment system 100 shown in Figure 1 is a system of professional type comprising a laser 2 comprising a treatment head 20, and a treatment kit 1 comprising an aqueous material, for example a hydrogel, in the form of a sheet material 10 preferably constituted by biocellulose and at least one composition in at least one container 30, comprising at least one active agent to be applied before and/or after the fractional laser treatment.
  • a aqueous material for example a hydrogel
  • the treatment head 20 is connected to a fixed post, for example via an articulated arm or a gooseneck enabling it to be oriented easily toward the area to be treated.
  • the fixed post may comprise a selector for choosing between several types of treatment, which differ, for example, by the intensity, the wavelength or the duration.
  • the laser 2 is, for example, a Fraxel ® re: store ® Dual laser from the company
  • the sheet material 10 is a mask precut in the shape of a face, which is contained beforehand in a sterile sachet 15 in hydrated form.
  • Figure 2 shows other examples of sheet materials 10 corresponding to the treatment of a hand or a neckline.
  • composition(s) contained in the container(s) 30 are intended to be used either before the fractional treatment to prepare the skin, or immediately after the fractional treatment and the application of the sheet material, or alternatively to hydrate the sheet material 10.
  • the laser 2 is adapted for domestic use.
  • the laser treatment head 20 optionally comprises a positioning means for holding the optical system at a constant nonzero distance from the skin.
  • the laser head For the treatment, the laser head performs, on each pass over an area, a sweep of the laser beam over the skin, the user performing one or more passes over each area.
  • the passage over an area may leave on the skin regular red points, materializing the points of laser impact.
  • Figure 3 shows a face undergoing fractional laser treatment. Only part of the areas has already been treated. In the illustrated example, the treatment takes place in each area by means of a scan delimited by a rectangle.
  • Figure 4 shows that the microwells p of each area are separated after a passage by a nonzero spacing /.
  • Figure 5 shows in partial cross section a sheet material variant comprising an electroluminescent component 50 of OLED type and a substrate 11 comprising or constituted by biocellulose or a hydrogel.
  • the component 50 preferably emits at 592 nm ⁇ 10 nm, in a pulsed manner, as described above.
  • the emitted light reaches the skin through the substrate 11, due to its transparency.
  • routine below comprising the following successive steps is performed several times, for example between 4 and 6 times:
  • a hydrated biocellulose mask for example an XCell patch from Xylos, for 15 minutes.
  • the mask it is applied for less than 30 minutes, preferably immediately after the end of the laser treatment.
  • the mask has a water content of greater than 90% and is made from a sheet of biocellulose obtained by static fermentation in aerobic medium of a strain of Acetobacter Xylinum (strain ATCC23767).
  • the biocellulose plaque obtained after fermentation is rinsed with distilled water, washed with a dilute solution and then neutralized with an acetic acid solution. After rinsing with distilled water, the biocellulose plaque is in the form of a sheet about 2 mm thick.
  • the biocellulose then undergoes sterilization with humid heat in an autoclave at 121 °C for 20 minutes.
  • application of an antioxidant solution I containing 10% to 20% (by mass) of vitamin C combined with 0.5% to 2% of vitamin E and 0.1% to 1% of ferulic acid.
  • the treatment a) to c) above may be completed by the daily or twice-daily application in the morning of a cleanser based on nonaggressive surfactant sold by the company SkinCeuticals under the name Gentle Cleanser, followed by application of solution I above, and application of a daily photo protective product, for example with a protection factor SPF50 based on titanium dioxide.
  • step b) Application from a few hours up to 15 days after step b) of a biocellulose mask left in place for 10 to 20 minutes.
  • This biocellulose mask is left in place for 10 to 20 minutes. It is ideally applied once or twice a day, for 1 to 2 weeks after the application of the regenerative biocellulose mask.
  • composition I of step c) of Example 2 a solution containing in replacement or in addition one of the active agents from chosen from Pro-xylane, hydroxy) ' asmonic acid, Prolastyl and resveratrol mucoside, is applied.
  • composition IV is applied (the proportions are given on a mass basis):
  • Phase A is heated with stirring to 80°C until fully homogenized.
  • Phase B is heated with stirring at 80°C until a homogeneous phase is obtained, and is then added to phase A with stirring.
  • phase C The gelling agent (phase C) is then added and the mixture is cooled to room temperature.
  • Phase D is then added to complete the formulation.
  • the mask After a fractional treatment, and application of a biocellulose mask, as in steps a) and b) of Example 1, the mask is subjected during its application to pulsed orange light of wavelength 592 nm, for one or more phases of 35 seconds, the duration of the light pulses being 250 ms, separated by extinction times of 100 ms, with 100 light pulses over 35 seconds, the power being 4 mW/cm 2 approximately.
  • This very short treatment all the more so if it is performed through a mask, does not cause any significant increase in the temperature of the skin.
  • a food supplement is taken orally, which is intended to reinforce the dermal firmness and regeneration, for example the nutritional supplement Ineov Fermete sold by the Laboratoires Inneov.
  • the process may be performed, for example, in a beauty salon. In one variant, the process may be performed directly by the user.
  • the examples may be reproduced with a hydrogel instead of biocellulose. Active agents other than those mentioned in the examples may be used.
  • the treatment according to the invention may be implemented in vivo, but also on samples ex vivo and vitro.
  • the expression "comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau, dans des buts non thérapeutiques, comprenant les étapes suivantes : - effectuer un traitement fractionné de la peau de manière à réduire la fonction de barrière de la peau, - appliquer à la zone à traiter ou à celle qui a été traitée, avant, pendant ou après le traitement fractionné, un matériau aqueux comprenant un hydrogel et/ou de la biocellulose.
PCT/IB2012/051525 2011-03-31 2012-03-29 Procédé de traitement cosmétique fractionné utilisant un laser ou des microaiguilles WO2012131623A2 (fr)

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FR1152769A FR2973237A1 (fr) 2011-03-31 2011-03-31 Procede de traitement cosmetique fractionne utilisant un laser ou des micro-aiguilles
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US201161476789P 2011-04-19 2011-04-19
US61/476,789 2011-04-19

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