Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
  • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• the invention describes preparations which contain active ingredients dispersed in a continuous, coherent phase
• preparations which are used in cosmetics contain active ingredients, such as, for example, biogenic active ingredients, vitamins, deodorants, antidandruff agents, UV light protection factors and the like. It is desirable to improve the durability of the active ingredients in cosmetic formulations by other forms of administration
• European patent EP 0764201 B1 describes, for example, cleaning agents which contain peroxide compounds encapsulated as active ingredients in paraffin waxes
• the object of the present invention thus has then passed to provide a means of disposal, which will allow to incorporate a high concentration of active ingredients by means of a Tragermate ⁇ als in cosmetic preparations and thereby improve the stability of the active compounds
• These agents sol ⁇ len ensure that the release the active ingredients only occur when they are used as a result of mechanical, thermal, chemical or enzymatic action, thereby extending their duration of action and thus improving them (for example in hair treatments). Furthermore, the resistance of slightly unstable active ingredients in these agents should be increased
• the invention relates to cosmetic preparations consisting of a continuous phase and active ingredients dispersed therein, which are characterized in that the continuous phase consists of pearlescent waxes
• active ingredients which are continuously dispersed in a pearlescent wax can be incorporated excellently into cosmetic preparations. Since the active ingredients are, to a certain extent, completely or partially enveloped by the pearlescent wax, it is possible to dose the active ingredients via the carrier material, ie the pearlescent wax, and allows higher concentrations of active ingredients to be incorporated into cosmetic preparations. The release of the active ingredients is slowed down by the pearlescent waxes and may only occur through mechanical, thermal, chemical or enzymatic action. It is also advantageous here that the resistance of active ingredients, which are, for example, slightly unstable, is increased and their effectiveness in use can be improved by delayed release (for example hair treatments, etc.).
• Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters; fatty acid; partial glycerides; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms; Ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
• the pearlescent waxes can be solid or liquid,
• alkylene glycol ester • alkylene glycol ester.
• the alkylene glycol esters are usually mono- and / or diesters of alkylene glycols which follow the formula (I)
• R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
• R 2 is hydrogen or R 1 CO
• A is a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms and q is a number of 1 to 5.
• Typical examples are mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol " , propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms as there are: caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, Lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
• the use of ethylene glycol mono- and / or distearate is particularly preferred.
• Fatty acid alkanolamides which can be used as pearlescent waxes follow the formula (II),
• R 3 CO represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
• R 4 represents hydrogen or an optionally hydroxyl-substituted alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
• B represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
• Typical examples are condensation products of ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, diethanolamine, propanolamine, methylpropanolamine and dipropanolamine and their mixtures with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, isostearic acid E-laidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
• the use of stearic acid ethanolamide is particularly preferred.
• Partial glycerides which have pearlescent properties are mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids, namely, for example, caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, elaidic acid , Linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. They follow the formula (III),
• R 5 CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
• R 5 and R 7 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 7 CO, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30
• X for is an alkali or alkaline earth metal with the proviso that at least one of the two radicals R 6 and R 7 is hydrogen.
• Typical examples are lauric acid monoglyceride, lauric acid diglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid triglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid triglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid remonoglycend, isostearic acid digl / cerid, oic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, tallow fatty acid monoglyceride, tallow fatty acid diglyceride, behenic acid monoglyceride, behenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid remonoglyceride, erucased diglyidic acid, and also technical trichloride diglyidic acid products, which are derived from trichloride diglycidic acid, which are derived from trichloride diglycidic acid.
• Polyvalent carboxylic and hydroxycarboxylic esters are Polyvalent carboxylic and hydroxycarboxylic esters. Pearlescent waxes which can also be esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable acid components of these esters are malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanoic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and in particular succinic acid and malic acid, citric acid and in particular tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.
• the fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.
• Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linoleol, alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linoleol alcohol, linole
• the esters can be present as full or partial esters, preferably mono- and especially diesters of carboxylic or hydroxycarboxylic acids.
• Typical examples are succinic acid mono- and dilauryl esters, succinic acid mono- and dicetearly esters, succinic acid mono- and distearyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dilauryl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dicocoalkyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dicetearyl esters, citric acid mono-, citric acid mono-, trilaury esters, citric acid mono-, di- and tricocoalkyl esters as well as citric acid mono-, di- and tricetearyl esters.
• Fatty alcohols Long-chain fatty alcohols which follow the formula (IV) can be used as a further group of pearlescent waxes,
• R 8 represents a linear alkyl radical having 24 to 48, preferably 32 to 36, carbon atoms.
• the substances mentioned are usually oxidation products of long-chain paraffins.
• Fat ketones which are suitable as component (a) preferably follow the formula (V),
• R 9 and R 10 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
• the ketones can be prepared by methods known in the art, for example by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts.
• the ketones can have a symmetrical or asymmetrical structure, but the two radicals R 9 and R 10 preferably differ only by one carbon atom and are derived from fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Stearon is characterized by particularly advantageous pearlescent properties.
• Fatty aldehydes Fatty aldehydes suitable as pearlescent waxes correspond to the formula (VI)
• R 11 CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 24 to 48, preferably 28 to 32, carbon atoms.
• R 12 and R 13 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that in total they have at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
• Fat ethers of the type mentioned are usually prepared by acidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fat ethers with particularly advantageous pearlescent properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.
• Fatty carbonates are also suitable as component (a)
• R 14 and R 15 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
• the substances are obtained by transesterifying, for example, dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with the corresponding fatty alcohols in a manner known per se. Accordingly, the fatty carbonates can be constructed symmetrically or asymmetrically. However, carbonates are preferably used in which R 14 and R 15 are the same and for alkyl radicals 16 to 22 carbon atoms are available.
• Transesterification products of dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, olefin alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol in the form of their mono- and diesters or their technical mixtures are particularly preferred.
• fatty acids • fatty acids.
• aliphatic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with 16 to 30 carbons such as stearic acid, cetylstearic acid, hydroxystearic acid and behenic acid, and their technical mixtures.
• Epoxy ring opening products are known substances which are usually prepared by acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal 0-lefine epoxides with aliphatic alcohols.
• the reaction products preferably follow the formula (IX)
• R 16 and R 17 represent hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of R 16 and R 17 is in the range from 10 to 20 and R 18 represents an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or the remainder of a polyol having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
• Typical examples are ring opening products of ⁇ -dodecenepoxide, ⁇ -hexadecenepoxide, -Octadecenepoxid, ⁇ -Eicosenepoxid, ⁇ -Docosenepoxid, i-Dodecenepoxid, i-Hexadecenepoxid, i-Octadecenepoxid, i-Eicosenepoxid and / or i-Docoholalkalkosenepoxid with Laurylalkosenepoxid Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.
• Ring opening products of hexa- and / or octadecene epoxides with fatty alcohols having 16 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.
• polyols are, for example, the following substances: glycerol; Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical cigoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Lower alkyl
• active ingredients such as those used in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, are surfactants, cosmetic oils, stabilizers, biogenic active ingredients, vitamins, deodorants, antiperspirants, anti-dandruff agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, and typrosin inhibitors (type inhibitors) ), Perfume oils and dyes.
• active substances can be present in amounts of 0.1 to 50, preferably 10 to 45 and in particular 15 to 40% by weight, based on the preparations.
• Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants can be encapsulated as surface-active substances.
• anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, glycerethersulfonates, ⁇ -methyl estersulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkylsulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, fatty ether sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate etherates, Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid is
• anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or alkyl glucoramides, vegetable glucoramide acid derivatives, and glucoronic acid protein derivatives Wheat base), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
• nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, Aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imic azolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
• Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C ⁇ -C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids with linear C ⁇ -C are examples of cosmetic oils ⁇ fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, Stearylbe- tribehenate, Stearyleruc
• esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
• esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
• esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols are suitable (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimert ol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ⁇ -Ci ⁇ fatty acids, esters of Ce-C22 fatty alcohol - Get and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms
• Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane , Squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
• Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
• Biogenic active ingredients include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid ren, kojic acid, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
• Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
• Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
• germ-inhibiting agents such as.
• Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
• trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG).
• the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
• esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.
• dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic
• Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance substances or perfume oils act as covering layers, which, in addition to their function as covering layers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
• Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic table fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
• Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
• the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
• the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
• the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone
• the alcohols are anethole, citronellellone Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
• the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
• fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
• Cyclovertal lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Everyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, alone or irotyl and floram used in mixtures.
• Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
• Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
• non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
• Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
• suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, Aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine.
• oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
• oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
• water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
• Climbazole, octopirox, ketoconazole and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents.
• UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
• UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
• esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; > Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-tria ⁇ ilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 exaggerated or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropyiphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
• the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
• insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
• suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
• Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
• the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
• the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
• the pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
• Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxy-octylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
• secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which form the photochemical reaction chain interrupt which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
• Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
• ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroüponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
• thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfox gerin compatible doses (e.g.
• (metal) chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin , Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
• Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
• N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate are suitable as insect repellents, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanning agent.
• Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
• Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, Lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
• Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepyl propionate, allyl cyclohexyl propylateionate.
• the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
• the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
• the ketones include, for example, the jonones, ⁇ -isomethylionon and methyl cedryl the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
• the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
• fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
• bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, ⁇ -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irot
• the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These active ingredients can also be contained in the capsules solely for aesthetic reasons and cannot be intended for controlled release.
• the drying device into which the pearlescent waxes and active ingredients are sprayed can be any drying apparatus.
• drying is carried out as spray drying or spray crystallization in a drying tower and particularly preferably under reduced pressure.
• the aqueous preparations are exposed to a drying gas stream in finely divided form in a known manner.
• patent publications by the company Cognis an embodiment of spray drying with superheated steam is described. The working principle disclosed there is hereby expressly made the subject of the present disclosure of the invention.
• the pearlescent waxes and active ingredients can be subjected to joint spray drying or spray crystallization. Furthermore, it is also possible to subject the active ingredients to spray drying or spray crystallization alone and then to apply the pearlescent waxes in a spray mixer.
• the matrix containing the active ingredient is in the form of a solid and can consist of hydrophilic waxes, crystallizing surfactant preparations or carrier materials which bind the active ingredient and are compatible with the active ingredient.
• a weight ratio of pearlescent wax: active ingredient of 10: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 7: 1 to 2: 1, is preferably chosen.
• the spray drying or spray crystallization can be carried out using a double tube, the pearlescent waxes being introduced through the outer tube and the active ingredients through the inner tube.
• the active ingredients can form an inner core which is surrounded by the pearlescent agents in a continuous phase.
• a continuous phase is preferably understood to mean a homogeneous phase which remains unchanged even over a longer storage period.
• compositions of the present invention are used for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, oral and dental care products, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat - masses, stick preparations or ointments.
• cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as hair shampoos, oral and dental care products, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat - masses, stick preparations or ointments.
• These compositions according to the invention can be present in the preparations in amounts of 0.01 to 30, preferably 0.5 to 20 and in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the active substance content.
• auxiliaries and additives can contain mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, consistency agents, thickening agents, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanners, solubilizers, perfume oils, Dyes and the like have.
• mild surfactants oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, consistency agents, thickening agents, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanners, solubilizers, perfume oils, Dyes and the like have.
• Suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
• Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
• Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
• Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (eg Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as Cooking salt and ammonium chloride.
• Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
• polysaccharides in
• Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF) , Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyldiethylaminohydroxypropylaminohydroxyaminohydroxyaminohydroxin
• Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and,
• Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
• Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
• a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
• fats are glycerides
• waxes include natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
• natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax,
• the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.
• the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Examples
• compositions which consist of a continuous phase and an active ingredient dispersed therein (compound 1 to 6), were prepared by spray-crystallizing the active ingredients listed below with the pearlescent wax mixtures.
• Compounds 1 to 6 are composed as follows:
• lactic acid ethylene glycol monostearate: cetearyl alcohol (25: 50: 25)
• Alpha Tocophero I ethylene glycol monostearate: cetearyl alcohol: glycerol monostearate (20: 40: 20: 20)

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• 2000
  • 2000-02-17 DE DE10007322A patent/DE10007322A1/de not_active Withdrawn
• 2001
  • 2001-02-08 EP EP01936050A patent/EP1255525B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2001-02-08 ES ES01936050T patent/ES2210162T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2001-02-08 JP JP2001559422A patent/JP2003522778A/ja active Pending
  • 2001-02-08 WO PCT/EP2001/001349 patent/WO2001060323A2/de not_active Ceased
  • 2001-02-08 US US10/204,156 patent/US20030044441A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-02-08 DE DE50100874T patent/DE50100874D1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime

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