WO1998005815A1 - Traitement d'etoffes - Google Patents

Traitement d'etoffes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1998005815A1
WO1998005815A1 PCT/GB1997/002092 GB9702092W WO9805815A1 WO 1998005815 A1 WO1998005815 A1 WO 1998005815A1 GB 9702092 W GB9702092 W GB 9702092W WO 9805815 A1 WO9805815 A1 WO 9805815A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
resin
zero
silicone
fibrils
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB1997/002092
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Philip Ian Patterson
Original Assignee
Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited filed Critical Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited
Priority to AU37782/97A priority Critical patent/AU3778297A/en
Publication of WO1998005815A1 publication Critical patent/WO1998005815A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
    • D06M13/432—Urea, thiourea or derivatives thereof, e.g. biurets; Urea-inclusion compounds; Dicyanamides; Carbodiimides; Guanidines, e.g. dicyandiamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/192—Polycarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain

Definitions

  • This invention relates to methods for finishing lyocell fabrics and in particular to the provision of lyocell fabrics which have a peachskin finish.
  • Lyocell fibres are known, and their manufacture is described for example in US-A-4 , 416 , 698 , the contents of which are incorporated herein by way of reference.
  • Cellulose is dissolved in a solvent containing a tertiary amine N-oxide (which may also be called for brevity an amine oxide), for example N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NM O).
  • a tertiary amine N-oxide which may also be called for brevity an amine oxide
  • NM O N-methylmorpholine N-oxide
  • the solvent generally also contains a proportion of a non-solvent for cellulose, for example water.
  • the resulting solution is extruded through a suitable die to produce fibres, which are coagulated, washed in water to remove the solvent, and dried.
  • solvent spinning This process of extrusion and coagulation is referred to as "solvent spinning", and the cellulose fibre produced thereby is referred to as “solvent- spun” cellulose fibre or under the generic name "lyocell fibre”.
  • cellulose fibres can be made by extrusion of a solution of a cellulose derivative into a coagulating and regenerating bath.
  • a viscose process In which the cellulose derivative is cellulose xanthate.
  • Solvent spinning has a number of advantages over other known processes for the manufacture of cellulosic fibres such as the viscose process, for example reduced environmental emissions.
  • lyocell fabric means a woven or knitted fabric which contains or consists of lyocell yarn or yarns.
  • lyocell yarn means a yarn which contains or consists of lyocell fibre.
  • Lyocell fibres are known to be prone to fibrillation. Fibrillation is a phenomenon which in the main occurs when lyocell fibres are subjected to mechanical forces during wet-processing, and it results in the partial detachment of fine longitudinal fibrils from the fibres. Two 'types of fibrillation are recognised in lyocell fabrics, under the names primary fibrillation and secondary fibrillation, as described by R Breier in a paper entitled "Die Veredlung von Lyocellfasern - Ein Ehrfahrungsbericht" in Lenzinger Berichte 9/94 at pages 99-101. Primary fibrillation results in the formation of relatively long fibrils (often 1 mm or longer) , is uneven and often leads to pilling.
  • Breier describes the production of a peachskin finish by enzymatic defibrillation of lyocell fabric containing primary fibrils using a cellulase, followed by induction of secondary fibrillation by wet treatment in a jet-processing machine in conjunction with a silicone softener.
  • JP-A-6-146, 168 discloses that fibrillation of lyocell fibres can be prevented by finishing the fibre with a conventional N-methylol textile resin.
  • the same disclosure was publicly made by J M Taylor at the Second Tencel Technical Conference, in the Industrial Technology Centre, Hammamatsu, Japan, on 16th July 1992.
  • a method of providing a lyocell fabric with a peachskin finish is characterised in that (a) a mixture of (i) a zero-formaldehyde textile resin and (ii) an emulsion of a silicone-based softener is applied to fibrillated lyocell fabric, and (b) the fabric is treated so as to cure the resin thereon.
  • the mixture of zero-formaldehyde textile resin and silicone softener is preferably water-based.
  • the mixture is conveniently applied to the fabric by a conventional technique, such as by dipping in a bath or by padding.
  • the zero-formaldehyde textile resin may be any of those known as such in the art.
  • One known class of such resins which may be preferred, consists of N,N '-dialkylated cyclic ureas, for example and in particular N,N'-dimethyldihydroxy- ethyleneurea( 4 , 5-dihydroxy-1 , 3-dimethylimidazolidin-2-one ) .
  • suitable commercial zero-formaldehyde textile resins of this kind include Arkofix NZF (Trade Mark of Hoechst AG) and Knittex FRF (Trade Mark of Ciba-Geigy AG) .
  • Such resins are generally used in conjunction with an acid catalyst, usually a metal salt of the Lewis acid type such as magnesium chloride, although other acid catalysts such as an amine salt or an organic acid such as citric acid may also be used.
  • concentration of catalyst depends on the particular catalyst but is generally such that the ratio by weight of the textile resin (cross-linking agent) to the catalyst is in the range from 4:1 to 20:1.
  • Another known class of zero-formaldehyde textile resins consists of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids, for example butane-1,2 , 3, 4-tetracarboxylic acid and citric acid. This latter class may generally be less preferred on environmental grounds, in that their satisfactory application generally requires the use of phosphate or hypophosphite catalysts.
  • concentration of the zero- formaldehyde textile resin in the application liquor may be in the range from 10 to 100 g/1, often 25 to 75 g/1.
  • silicone-based softeners are based on non-ionic polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes. They are supplied in the form of fine emulsions in water. The concentration of the silicone-based softener in the application liquor (calculated on the basis of the emulsion as supplied) may be in the range from 10 to 100 g/1, often 20 to 50 g/1. Examples of suitable commercial silicone-based softener emulsions include Cellusoft MEC (Trade Mark of Hoechst AG) and Sandoper MEJ (Trade Mark of Sandoz AG) .
  • the silicone-based softener used in the method of the invention is preferably a microemulsion of a nonionic silicone, although other kinds may also be used.
  • the curing step may be carried out in any conventional manner. It may be preferred to effect curing by drying the fabric followed by heating at elevated temperature for a short time, for example at a temperature in the range from 150 to 200°C for a time in the range from 10 seconds to 5 minutes .
  • the lyocell fabric subjected to the method of the invention contains primary fibrils. This is a common consequence of using conventional wet-processing techniques, including dyeing, although care may need to be taken to ensure that primary fibrillation occurs throughout the whole of the fabric. Resin-finishing according to the method of the invention embrittles the primary fibrils, so that they can subsequently be removed by mechanical working under dry conditions, for example vigorous tumble-drying. It has surprisingly been found that secondary fibrils survive this treatment, or that primary fibrils break off so as to acquire the nature of secondary fibrils, when the method of the invention has been employed, so that the resultant fabric exhibits a desirable peachskin finish.
  • a method for providing a lyocell fabric with a peachskin finish is characterised in that (a) a mixture of (i) a zero-formaldehyde textile resin and (ii) an emulsion of a silicone-based softener is applied to a fibrillated lyocell fabric containing primary fibrils, (b) the fabric is treated so as to cure the resin thereon, and (c) the fabric is subjected to mechanical working under dry conditions so that the primary fibrils are removed therefrom.
  • the lyocell fabric subjected to the method of the invention contains few or no primary fibrils but does contain secondary fibrils, so that it already exhibits a peachskin finish.
  • Primary fibrillation can be avoided by careful control of the preceding wet-processing steps, in particular by processing the fabric in open width.
  • the desired secondary fibrillation can conveniently be induced prior to the resin-finishing step of the invention by inducing primary fibrillation by wet-processing, enzymatic removal of fibrils, and further wet processing (for example dyeing) to induce secondary fibrillation. It has surprisingly been found that the peachskin finish is retained through the resin-finishing step of the invention and further surprisingly through subsequent laundering.
  • a method for providing a lyocell fabric with a peachskin finish is characterised in that (a) a mixture of (i) a zero-formaldehyde textile resin and (ii) an emulsion of a silicone-based softener is applied to a fibrillated lyocell fabric containing secondary fibrils and essentially no primary fibrils, and (b) the fabric is treated so as to cure the resin thereon.
  • Fabric treated according to the method of the invention exhibits good washability, whereby the desirable peachskin finish is retained through conventional laundering cycles.
  • N-methylol resin alone the benefits of the invention are not obtained. All such treatments so embrittle both primary and secondary fibrils that they are thereafter readily removed from the fabric, for example during conventional laundering. In consequence, the desirable peachskin finish cannot be obtained, or it is lost if present before finishing, when such methods are employed.
  • Treatment with low levels, for example 0.5 to 0.75% by weight on fabric, of the conventional low-formaldehyde N-methylol resin DHDMEU in conjunction with a silicone-based softener provides some retention of an existing peachskin effect, but at the expense of imparting a relatively harsh handle to the fabric.
  • Woven lyocell fabric (Tencel, Trade Mark of Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited), previously desized in open width form, was loaded into a Thies Rototumbler (Trade Mark) containing 2 g/1 Perilan VF (Trade Mark) at 60°C. Primary fibrillation was induced by adding 2 g/1 caustic soda (as solid) to this bath, raising the temperature to 115°C and running the fabric at 400 /min for 90 minutes. The fabric was subsequently enzyme-cleaned using 3 g/1 of the cellulase enzyme Primafast 100 (Trade Mark of Genencor) for 60 minutes at 55°C.
  • Primafast 100 Trade Mark of Genencor
  • the fabric was then loaded onto a Thies Heilroto (Trade Mark) machine for dyeing using a Procion HEXL (Trade Mark) migration technique.
  • the dyeing stage also serves to induce secondary fibrillation.
  • the fabric was next dried, and then tumbled in a Thies Rototumbler for one hour.
  • the resulting peachskin fabric pilled slightly after five domestic wash/tumble cycles and showed white line marks.
  • the application of the following finishes immediately after the dyeing step gave results as follows:
  • Tencel fabric as in Example 1 was desized and dyed (with Procion HE dyes) using standard methods on a jig machine.
  • the fabric was loaded onto a Thies Rototumbler (Trade Mark) machine containing 2 g/1 Perilan VF (Trade Mark) at 60°C.
  • Primary fibrillation was induced by adding 2 g/1 caustic soda (as solid) to the bath, raising the temperature to 115°C and running the fabric at 400 m/min for 90 minutes.
  • the dyed and fibrillated fabric was stenter dried, and a mixture of silicone microemulsion (38 g/1) and zero- formaldehyde resin (90 g/1) as in Example 1 was padded on and cured.
  • the fabric was then dried and then dry tumbled in a Biancalani Airo (Trade Mark) machine for 15 minutes at 400 m/min.
  • the resulting fabric had a peachskin (aesthetic, secondary fibrillation) which was stable to domestic laundering and tumbling.

Abstract

Il est possible de donner, à une étoffe de fibres lyocellulaires, un fini 'peau de pêche' en appliquant sur ladite étoffe un mélange constitué d'une résine textile à teneur nulle en formaldéhyde et d'une émulsion d'un agent adoucissant à base de silicone puis en laissant sécher la résine sur l'étoffe.
PCT/GB1997/002092 1996-08-05 1997-08-01 Traitement d'etoffes WO1998005815A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU37782/97A AU3778297A (en) 1996-08-05 1997-08-01 Fabric treatment

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GBGB9616466.0A GB9616466D0 (en) 1996-08-05 1996-08-05 Fabric treatment
GB9616466.0 1996-08-05

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1998005815A1 true WO1998005815A1 (fr) 1998-02-12

Family

ID=10798072

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/GB1997/002092 WO1998005815A1 (fr) 1996-08-05 1997-08-01 Traitement d'etoffes

Country Status (3)

Country Link
AU (1) AU3778297A (fr)
GB (1) GB9616466D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO1998005815A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102704231A (zh) * 2012-05-23 2012-10-03 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 一种提高天丝面料抗起球性能的方法
WO2012137219A3 (fr) * 2011-04-05 2013-01-10 Grasim Industries Limited Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus de lyocell sans fibrilles
CN104746215A (zh) * 2015-04-22 2015-07-01 湖州环球手套有限公司 一种手套用新型螺纹桃皮绒面料

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH06146168A (ja) * 1992-10-30 1994-05-27 Nisshinbo Ind Inc 溶剤紡糸されたセルロース系繊維のフイブリル化防止加工方法
WO1995000697A1 (fr) * 1993-06-24 1995-01-05 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement pour tissus
JPH07157978A (ja) * 1993-12-03 1995-06-20 Teijin Ltd 耐摩耗性向上処理剤
WO1995030043A1 (fr) * 1994-05-03 1995-11-09 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement d'une etoffe en fibre lyocell (fibre de cellulose tissee dans un solvant), destine a reduire la tendance de cette fibre a la fibrillation

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH06146168A (ja) * 1992-10-30 1994-05-27 Nisshinbo Ind Inc 溶剤紡糸されたセルロース系繊維のフイブリル化防止加工方法
WO1995000697A1 (fr) * 1993-06-24 1995-01-05 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement pour tissus
JPH07157978A (ja) * 1993-12-03 1995-06-20 Teijin Ltd 耐摩耗性向上処理剤
WO1995030043A1 (fr) * 1994-05-03 1995-11-09 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement d'une etoffe en fibre lyocell (fibre de cellulose tissee dans un solvant), destine a reduire la tendance de cette fibre a la fibrillation

Non-Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
BREIER R: "DIE VEREDLUNG VON LYOCELLAFASERN-EIN ERFAHRUNGSBERICHT", LENZINGER BERICHTE, vol. 9, 1994, LENZING, AUSTRIA, pages 99 - 101, XP002032693 *
DANNHORN, B.: "Der Einfluss der Ausrüstung mit Vernetzern und Additiven bei Artikeln aus Lyocellfasern", LENZINGER BERICHTE, vol. 9, September 1994 (1994-09-01), LENZING, AUSTRIA, pages 73 - 80, XP002046943 *
DATABASE WPI Section Ch Week 9426, Derwent World Patents Index; Class F01, AN 94-211461, XP002046944 *
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 095, no. 009 31 October 1995 (1995-10-31) *

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012137219A3 (fr) * 2011-04-05 2013-01-10 Grasim Industries Limited Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus de lyocell sans fibrilles
CN102704231A (zh) * 2012-05-23 2012-10-03 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 一种提高天丝面料抗起球性能的方法
CN104746215A (zh) * 2015-04-22 2015-07-01 湖州环球手套有限公司 一种手套用新型螺纹桃皮绒面料

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB9616466D0 (en) 1996-09-25
AU3778297A (en) 1998-02-25

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