EP1404917B1 - Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell - Google Patents

Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1404917B1
EP1404917B1 EP02727785A EP02727785A EP1404917B1 EP 1404917 B1 EP1404917 B1 EP 1404917B1 EP 02727785 A EP02727785 A EP 02727785A EP 02727785 A EP02727785 A EP 02727785A EP 1404917 B1 EP1404917 B1 EP 1404917B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
process according
acid
dyeing
lyocell
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP02727785A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1404917A2 (fr
Inventor
James Martin Taylor
Geoffrey William Collins
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Lenzing AG
Original Assignee
Lenzing AG
Chemiefaser Lenzing AG
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Priority claimed from GB0114605A external-priority patent/GB0114605D0/en
Priority claimed from GB0201067A external-priority patent/GB0201067D0/en
Application filed by Lenzing AG, Chemiefaser Lenzing AG filed Critical Lenzing AG
Publication of EP1404917A2 publication Critical patent/EP1404917A2/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1404917B1 publication Critical patent/EP1404917B1/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D06M11/155—Halides of elements of Groups 2 or 12 of the Periodic System
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/84—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising combined with mechanical treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/207—Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/653—Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a process for the dyeing and finishing of a lyocell fabric.
  • lyocell fabric means a fabric formed, particularly woven or knitted, from yarns at least some of which contain or consist of lyocell fibres. Such yarns may comprise just lyocell fibres or they may comprise a blend of lyocell fibres with one or more other fibre types, which may be cellulose-based or non-cellulosic, such as cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and nylon. Furthermore, the fabric may additionally include yarns which do not incorporate lyocell fibres, for example yarns of the other fibre types referred to and blends thereof.
  • Lyocell fibres are produced by extrusion of a solution of cellulose in a mixture of organic solvent and water through a spinning jet into a coagulation bath by a process known as solvent spinning. Such a process is described in US-A-4,246,221 and uses as the solvent an aqueous tertiary amine N-oxide, particularly N-methylmorpholine N-oxide. Lyocell fibres are distinguished from other man-made cellulose fibres which are produced by forming the cellulose into a soluble chemical derivative and then extruding a solution of this derivative into a bath which regenerates the extrudate as cellulose fibres; viscose fibres including the high-strength modal types are produced in this way.
  • Lyocell fibres are known to have a tendency to fibrillate during vigorous dyeing and finishing processes, and there have been a number of methods of dealing with this phenomenon. Where fibrillation is desired to be avoided, then dyeing and finishing of lyocell fabrics is carried out using relatively gentle processing such as pad-dyeing of open width fabric, and a resin-finishing treatment using a crosslinking agent is carried out on the dyed fabric to protect the fibres against fibrillation in subsequent laundering processes.
  • Another method of dealing with this fibrillation tendency of lyocell fibres is to treat the fibres so as to remove the relatively long protruding fibre ends which are formed in the first stage of the fibrillation process (so-called "primary fibrillation") and which otherwise produce a hairy effect, often matted, on the surface of the fabric and so disfigure its appearance.
  • primary fibrillation the relatively long protruding fibre ends which are formed in the first stage of the fibrillation process
  • secondary fibrillation the development of the shorter fibrils which are formed in the fibrillation process
  • These shorter fibrils create a surface finish which is characterised as being “clean”, in the sense of being substantially free from a hairy effect, and as having a soft touch imparted by the shorter fibrils on the surface and referred to as a "soft-touch finish”.
  • the soft touch of the fabric surface is more pronounced and the soft-touch finish is referred to as a "peach-touch finish”.
  • a further example is described in GB-A-2314568 and involves use of the dyeing machine itself, for example a jet dyeing machine, to subject the lyocell fabric to an extended treatment with an aqueous solution of a strong mineral acid such as sulphuric acid for 30 to 120 minutes before rinsing the fabric and then commencing the dyeing sequence in the machine.
  • a strong mineral acid such as sulphuric acid
  • One process which has been used successfully in commercial processing involves a post-treatment of a lyocell fabric which has been subjected to a wet processing operation such as dyeing.
  • the protruding fibre ends produced in primary fibrillation are removed in this post-treatment by applying to the fabric a solution of a cellulase enzyme.
  • the desired secondary fibrillation is developed in subsequent processing, for example in the dyeing process itself (if later) or in subsequent washing and drying steps using rotary tumbling machines to produce a soft-touch finish on the surface of the fabric.
  • Cellulase enzyme treatments are successful in removing the long fibre ends produced in primary fibrillation from the surface of the fabric but are expensive both in terms of material costs and in terms of processing time. Moreover, cellulase enzyme treatments are not usually successful in removing the visible crease marks which are produced in the most-widely used fabric dyeing process of water-driven jet dyeing. In these jet dyeing machines, the fabric is subjected to vigorous liquid and mechanical action whilst in rope form and this produces pronounced abrasion at fold lines, which manifests itself in the dyed fabric as visible crease marks, sometimes called rope-marks.
  • the present invention provides a process for producing a dyed and finished lyocell fabric having a clean, soft-touch finish by dyeing a lyocell fabric using vigorous action on the fabric so as to produce fibrillation on the surface of the fabric, and then washing and drying the dyed fabric characterised in that, before the dyeing step is carried out, the fabric is evenly impregnated with an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor and is then heat treated in a gaseous atmosphere to activate the action of the acid or acid donor, and that at least one of the subsequent washing and drying steps is carried out in a rotary tumbling machine, whereby the dyed and finished fabric has a clean, soft-touch finish substantially free from visible crease marks normally produced on lyocell fabrics which have been subjected to vigorous action in dyeing.
  • the vigorous action on the fabric applied during dyeing is primarily required for the particular process function being undertaken, examples being the vigorous action imposed on the fabric when being dyed in a jet dyeing machine or in a drum dyeing machine for garments. Washing on drying the dryed fabric in rotary tumbling machines such as wet tumbling machines or tumble dryers also applies vigorous action to the fabric. This vigorous action also produces fibrillation in a lyocell fabric which, but for the control imposed by the process of the invention, would mar the surface finish of the fabric with a hairy effect and risk the formation of the visible crease marks referred to.
  • the ability of the process of the invention to deliver dyed lyocell fabrics having a clean, soft-touch finish, particularly a peach-touch finish, free from visible crease marks after a vigorous action dyeing step such as jet dyeing and rotary tumbling is of great commercial importance. It means that the fabric can be processed on existing equipment using normal process routines without the need for excessive care in handling or extended processing times. For example, a dyeing cycle of six hours or less may be used in a jet dyeing machine. Suitable conventional water-driven jet dyeing machines include the machines known as Thies Ecosoft, and Hisaka Circular CUT-SL. Air jet dyeing machines, which also impose a vigorous action on the fabric, may also be used. Suitable air jet dyeing machines include the machines known as Thies Airstream, Thies Heil Roto, Hisaka AJ-1, Krantz Aerodye, and Then AFS.
  • Conventional dyes and dye recipes for cellulosic fabrics may be used in the process of the invention, including those based on direct dyes, vat dyes, sulphur dyes and reactive dyes.
  • the process of the invention can also be used in respect of the dyeing and finishing of piece goods or garments made from lyocell fabrics.
  • Such garments can suffer from visible crease marks caused by localised abrasion during vigorous processing, such as drum dyeing or wet tumbling or tumble-drying, but this is largely avoided if the garments are subjected to the process of the invention.
  • the application of the solution of the acid or acid donor and the subsequent drying and heat treatment step may be carried out on the lyocell fabric prior to its being converted into piece goods or garments. However, it may also be applied to the piece goods or garments after conversion.
  • the solution of the acid or acid donor is preferably an aqueous solution.
  • the fabric may be evenly impregnated with this solution using any of the conventional techniques for applying liquids to fabric, as by padding. Fabric in the length may be passed in open width through a pad bath of the aqueous solution, usually with a wet pick up of the solution in the range 65 to 80 per cent by weight on weight of fabric.
  • Piece goods such as garments may be immersed in the solution in a vessel such as a drum washing machine.
  • the acid or acid donor is preferably a weak acid of the type used as a catalyst for resins used in textile finishing processes.
  • Suitable acids or acid donors include organic acids, such as citric acid and tartaric acid, and Lewis acids.
  • Magnesium chloride, ammonium chloride, zinc chloride, zinc fluoroborate and zinc nitrate are suitable weak acids or acid donors. Mixtures of two or more of these compounds may also be used, and, indeed, manufacturers of acid catalysts for resin finishing sometimes use mixtures in their catalyst formulations.
  • An example of a commercial product which can be used in the process of the invention is Condensol FB (trade mark of BASF AG), an acid catalyst comprising a mixture of magnesium chloride and zinc fluoroborate.
  • Optimum solution concentrations of the acid or acid donor depend upon the particular acid or acid donor used; lower concentrations with highly active materials to avoid unwanted acid damage to the fabric and higher concentrations with less active materials.
  • the manufacturers recommend concentrations for resin-finishing processes, and, in general, such concentrations may be used in the process of the invention.
  • organic acids can be used in the concentration range of about 2 to 20 grams per litre in aqueous solution, for example about 4 to 6 grams per litre in the case of citric acid.
  • Less active acids or acid donors may involve or require greater concentrations, for example up to about 40 grams per litre in aqueous solution. Unnecessarily excessive concentrations should be avoided in all cases as these can cause unwanted acid damage to the fabric. Avoidance of unnecessarily high concentrations also minimises chemical usage.
  • the impregnated fabric is heat-treated in a gaseous atmosphere, for example in a hot air oven. Air forms the preferred gaseous atmosphere. It may be dried in a separate drying step before the heat treatment, but preferably the drying is just the initial stage of the heat treatment step.
  • the lyocell fabric preferably is treated in open width, desirably under tension, for example on a stenter passing through a heating oven or chamber.
  • the temperature of the gaseous atmosphere used in the heat treatment is optimally chosen to be effective in initiating the action of the particular acid or acid donor used.
  • the heat treatment serves to liberate acid in the gaseous phase to interact with the lyocell fibres.
  • a temperature in the range from 120°C to 220°C is suitable, more preferably from 140°C to 200°C.
  • optimum processing times depend upon the particular acid or acid donor used, but processing times are usually in the range from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. Any residual acid may be removed from the fabric by washing or scouring the heat-treated fabric and then re-drying it.
  • the fabric preferably is subjected to a desizing or scouring operation, usually carried out prior to the impregnation with the acid or acid donor.
  • This desizing or scouring may be a conventional operation in which the fabric is passed through an aqueous scouring bath to remove the size or lubricant. If desired, the fabric may be singed prior to removal of size. If pre-bleaching of the fabric is required, then it is preferred that this is carried out prior to the impregnation with the acid or acid donor, suitably after the desizing step.
  • Another possible treatment of the fabric is a so-called causticising treatment with an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. If this is carried out it is preferably carried out after the impregnation with the acid or acid donor and the subsequent heat treatment but before the dyeing step.
  • Causticising is often carried out to improve the flexibility of the fabric in the wet state.
  • a process for its application to lyocell fabrics is described in EP-A-0749505, where it is described as mercerising.
  • Causticising also enhances dyeability of the fabric which may be slightly depressed by the acid treatment, and it has the further effect that the fabric is modified in structure which reduces the propensity for shrinkage in later wet processing. After causticising, the fabric should be thoroughly rinsed with hot water and then cold water to remove residual sodium hydroxide.
  • the dyed fabric may be given conventional finishing treatments, including application of a soft-finish as by a conventional padding operation. This may be carried out after the dyeing and washing processes without the need for any intermediate drying of the fabric. If a wet tumbling treatment is required to develop the soft-touch finish, this may be carried out in a rotary tumbling machine after dyeing, either together with or after any soft finish treatment. As with the dyeing step, the treated lyocell fabric remains free from visible crease mark damage which can otherwise occur during wet tumbling. The finished fabric may then be given a final drying, for example in a tumble-drying machine.
  • the invention is illustrated by the following Examples.
  • the lyocell fibres comprising the lyocell fabric processed were produced by Tencel Limited under the Trade Mark TENCEL.
  • a lyocell fabric comprised a woven fabric of base weight 200 gsm (grams per square metre) constructed in a 2 by 1 twill weave from yarns of count 1/20s Ne comprising 100 per cent TENCEL fibres.
  • the fabric was scoured in open width using an aqueous scour bath containing a non-ionic detergent and sodium carbonate and at a temperature of 90°C to desize it and then was dried on a stenter at a temperature of 100°C.
  • the desized fabric was then evenly impregnated with an aqueous solution of citric acid at a concentration of 4.0 g/l (grams per litre) by uniformly squeezing the solution into the fabric using a pad mangle at an expression of 80 per cent wet pick-up.
  • the impregnated fabric was dried and heat-treated on a stenter frame in air at a temperature of 160° C for 5.0 minutes. After thorough rinsing with water and drying, the treated fabric was then ready for dyeing.
  • Dyeing was carried out in a Thies Ecosoft jet dyeing machine. In addition to the treated fabric, an untreated but desized control fabric of the same specification was also dyed and finished as hereinafter set out.
  • the dyeing method used was a hot exhaust migration dyeing method carried out over a period of six hours using an aqueous dyebath containing:-
  • the dyed control fabric had a matted surface appearance with a frosty look caused by the many protruding long fibres characteristic of primary fibrillation, and it was disfigured by visible crease marks caused by the abrasive action of the jet dyeing machine on the rope of fabric being processed.
  • the fabric treated according to the process of the invention had a uniformly clean surface appearance showing even dyeing, a soft-touch finish of sufficient development to be characterised as a peach-touch finish, and virtual absence of visible crease marks.
  • Example 1 The procedure of Example 1 was repeated using the same fabrics for both the treated and control samples but with the citric acid used in the impregnation step being replaced by CONDENSOL FB, a mixture of magnesium chloride and zinc fluoroborate sold as an acid catalyst for resin finishing of textiles, at a concentration of 20 g/l (CONDENSOL FB is a trademark of BASF AG).
  • CONDENSOL FB is a trademark of BASF AG.
  • the untreated control fabric was again of matted appearance with unsightly visible crease marks caused by the jet dyeing procedure.
  • the treated fabric on the contrary, had an attractive peach-touch finish with a clean surface free from visible crease marks.
  • a double jersey interlock fabric knitted from 1/30s Ne lyocell yarns was slit to open width. Part of the fabric was kept as an untreated control and part was impregnated in a pad bath at 80 per cent wet pick-up with an aqueous solution containing 12 g/l magnesium chloride hexahydrate and 1.0 g/l Kieralon JET (Kieralon is a trademark of BASF AG), a wetting agent. The impregnated fabric was then placed on a stenter and dried in air at a temperature of 110°C before being heat-treated in air at a temperature of 190°C for 45 seconds.
  • the treated fabric and the control fabric were then individually subjected to the following scouring, dyeing, softening and drying regime. Scouring was carried out using an aqueous solution of a non-ionic detergent and sodium carbonate at a temperature of 90° C for 30 minutes. The fabrics were then rinsed in water before being dyed in a jet dyeing machine as described in Example 1 using the same dyebath recipe but with the dye at 3.0 per cent owf.
  • the dyed fabrics were treated with a soft finish, Sandoperm MEJ (Sandoperm is a trademark of Clariant), at 2.0 per cent owf from an aqueous bath at a temperature of 40°C and were then tumble-dried in a Biancalani Airo 1000 fabric rope tumbler.
  • Sandoperm MEJ Sandoperm is a trademark of Clariant
  • the dyed control fabric had a matted surface appearance with many protruding long fibres characteristic of primary fibrillation.
  • the fabric treated according to the invention had a soft peach-touch finish and a uniform, clean appearance free from a hairy effect and free from visible crease marks.
  • a lyocell fabric comprised a woven fabric of base weight 150 gsm constructed in a 2 by 1 twill weave from yarns of count 1/24s Ne comprising 100 per cent lyocell fibres.
  • the fabric was scoured in open width with an aqueous solution comprising a non-ionic detergent and sodium carbonate at a temperature of 90° C and was then dried on cylindrical heating cans at a temperature of 100°C.
  • Condensol M (which is a trademark of BASF AG) is a 32 per cent by weight solution of magnesium chloride.
  • the impregnated fabric was dried at a temperature of 110°C and then heat treated in air at a temperature of 190°C for 45 seconds whilst on a stenter.
  • the treated fabric was then cut into shaped panels which were sewn together to make shirts.
  • the shirts were dyed in an open-pocket Tupesa Ecodye 25 garment dyeing machine using the hot exhaust migration dyeing method with the following dye recipe using a final fixation temperature of 80°C :-
  • the dyed shirts were rinsed with water and were then treated with a soft finish, Edunine CSA, at 2.0 per cent owf, applied from an aqueous bath at a temperature of 40°C. The shirts were then tumble-dried.
  • Edunine CSA a soft finish
  • the shirts were then tumble-dried.
  • the dyed and finished shirts had an attractive peach-touch finish free from visible crease marks and long fibrils.
  • a lyocell fabric comprised a woven fabric of basis weight 210 gsm constructed in a 2 by 1 twill weave from yarns of count 1/20s Ne comprising 65:35 weight blend of lyocell and cotton fibres.
  • This fabric was scoured in open width in an aqueous solution of a non-ionic detergent and sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 90°C, bleached in a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydroxide and peroxide stabiliser, and then steamed at a temperature of 100°C for 8.0 minutes before being washed in water and then dried on cylindrical drying cans.
  • the fabric was then separated into a length for a control and a length for treatment according to the invention.
  • the fabric for treatment was padded with an aqueous solution of magnesium chloride hexahydrate in concentration 14 g/l at a wet pick-up of 80 per cent, dried at a temperature of 119°C and then heat treated at a temperature of 170° C for 3.0 minutes on a stenter.
  • control and treated fabrics were dyed and finished in the same way as follows:-
  • a lyocell fabric as specified in Example 4 was scoured and dried as set out in that Example. Some of the fabric was reserved as a control and the rest was impregnated with magnesium chloride hexahydrate and then dried and heat treated by the procedure described in Example 5. It was then washed in water to remove any residual magnesium chloride hexahydrate and then dried. Some of the treated fabric was reserved for processing only according to the following dyeing and finishing stages and some was first given a causticising treatment in a chainless mercerising system using an 11 per cent by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide.
  • control fabric had matted primary fibrillation on its surface and had many visible crease marks showing as white lines.
  • the treated but uncausticised fabric had no crease marks and had an attractive clean, peach-touch finish. It was of a slightly paler colour than the control fabric.
  • the treated and causticised fabric had the same clean, peach-touch finish free from visible crease marks but had an enhanced dye yield both with respect to the uncausticised treated fabric and the control fabric.

Claims (25)

  1. Procédé de production d'une étoffe de lyocell teintée et finie ayant un fini net, doux au toucher, par teinture d'une étoffe de lyocell à l'aide d'une action énergique sur l'étoffe de manière à produire une fibrillation sur la surface de l'étoffe, puis lavage et séchage de l'étoffe teintée, caractérisé en ce que, avant que l'étape de teinture ne soit réalisée, l'étoffe est uniformément imprégnée d'une solution aqueuse d'un acide ou donneur d'acide et est ensuite traitée thermiquement dans une atmosphère gazeuse pour activer l'action de l'acide ou donneur d'acide, et en ce que l'une au moins des étapes consécutives de lavage et de séchage est réalisée dans un tambour rotatif, par lequel l'étoffe teintée et finie a un fini net, doux au toucher, substantiellement exempt de marques de plis visibles normalement produites sur des étoffes de lyocell qui ont été soumises à une action énergique lors de la teinture.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe de lyocell est teintée dans une machine de teinture à jet.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe de lyocell est teintée sous la forme de marchandises à la pièce telles que des vêtements dans une machine de teinture à tambour.
  4. Procédé selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que les étapes d'imprégnation et de traitement thermique sont réalisées sur l'étoffe de lyocell avant qu'elle ne soit façonnée en marchandises à la pièce telles que des vêtements.
  5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'acide ou donneur d'acide est utilisé à une concentration allant jusqu'à 40 grammes par litre en solution aqueuse.
  6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'une solution aqueuse d'un donneur d'acide choisi parmi le chlorure de magnésium, le chlorure d'ammonium, le chlorure de zinc, le fluoroborate de zinc, le nitrate de zinc et les mélanges de deux ou plus de ces composés est utilisée.
  7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce qu'une solution aqueuse d'un acide qui est un acide organique est utilisée.
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que l'acide organique est utilisé à une concentration de 2 à 20 grammes par litre en solution aqueuse.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que l'acide organique est l'acide citrique.
  10. Procédé selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que l'acide citrique est utilisé à une concentration de 4 à 6 grammes par litre en solution aqueuse.
  11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe imprégnée est traitée thermiquement dans une atmosphère gazeuse à une température de 120°C à 220°C.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que l'atmosphère gazeuse est à une température dans la gamme de 140°C à 200°C.
  13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'atmosphère gazeuse utilisée pour le traitement thermique est l'air.
  14. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe de lyocell est un tissu ou un tricot.
  15. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe de lyocell est soumise à une opération de dégraissage avant l'imprégnation avec l'acide ou donneur d'acide.
  16. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe de lyocell est soumise à un traitement de caustification après l'imprégnation avec l'acide ou donneur d'acide et l'étape de traitement thermique consécutive mais avant l'étape de teinture.
  17. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'étoffe de lyocell teintée est traitée par un finissage doux avant séchage final.
  18. Procédé selon la revendication 1, qui inclut les étapes suivantes dans l'ordre suivant :
    1) retrait de l'apprêt d'un tissu de lyocell au moyen d'un bain aqueux de désencollage ;
    2) foulardage de l'étoffe avec une solution aqueuse d'un acide ou donneur d'acide ;
    3) séchage et traitement thermique de l'étoffe ;
    4) teinture de l'étoffe ; et
    5) séchage au tambour de l'étoffe,
    produisant ainsi une étoffe de lyocell teintée ayant un fini peau de pêche.
  19. Procédé selon la revendication 18, qui inclut en outre l'étape de flambage de l'étoffe avant retrait de l'apprêt de l'étoffe.
  20. Procédé selon la revendication 18 ou la revendication 19, qui inclut en outre l'étape de blanchiment de l'étoffe entre l'étape de désencollage (1) et l'étape de foulardage avec un acide (2).
  21. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 18 à 20, qui inclut en outre l'étape de caustification de l'étoffe après l'étape de foulardage avec un acide (2) mais avant l'étape de teinture (4).
  22. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 18 à 21, qui inclut en outre l'étape de foulardage de l'étoffe avec un agent adoucissant après l'étape de teinture (4) mais avant séchage.
  23. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 18 à 22, dans lequel l'étape de teinture (4) est réalisée dans une machine à jet d'air.
  24. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 18 à 23, dans lequel l'étape de séchage et traitement thermique (3) est réalisée à une température de 140°C à 200°C.
  25. Procédé selon la revendication 24, dans lequel l'étape de séchage et traitement thermique (3) est réalisée sous tension.
EP02727785A 2001-06-15 2002-06-14 Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell Expired - Lifetime EP1404917B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB0114605A GB0114605D0 (en) 2001-06-15 2001-06-15 Dyeing and finishing of a woven fabric containing lyocell
GB0114605 2001-06-15
GB0201067 2002-01-17
GB0201067A GB0201067D0 (en) 2002-01-17 2002-01-17 Dyeing and finishing of lyocell fabrics
PCT/GB2002/002682 WO2002103104A2 (fr) 2001-06-15 2002-06-14 Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1404917A2 EP1404917A2 (fr) 2004-04-07
EP1404917B1 true EP1404917B1 (fr) 2007-01-10

Family

ID=26246192

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP02727785A Expired - Lifetime EP1404917B1 (fr) 2001-06-15 2002-06-14 Teinture et finissage de fibres lyocell

Country Status (8)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1404917B1 (fr)
KR (1) KR20040011534A (fr)
CN (1) CN1272499C (fr)
AU (1) AU2002257982A1 (fr)
BR (1) BR0210382A (fr)
ES (1) ES2279866T3 (fr)
TW (1) TWI237671B (fr)
WO (1) WO2002103104A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102634895A (zh) * 2011-03-07 2012-08-15 如皋市丁堰纺织有限公司 棉浆溶剂法纤维素纤维纯纺、混纺纱及其生产工艺

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2399094A (en) * 2003-03-04 2004-09-08 Tencel Ltd Treatment of lyocell containing fibres/fabrics with aqueous carboxylic acid at above atmospheric pressure & elevated temperature, prior to dyeing & tumbling
GB2403956A (en) * 2003-07-17 2005-01-19 Tencel Ltd Treatment of lyocell-containing fibres or fabrics with solution of a multifunctional carboxylic acid and solution of a Lewis acid, followed by heat treatment
CN111379040A (zh) * 2018-12-28 2020-07-07 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 一种莱赛尔纤维的染色方法
CN114411425B (zh) * 2021-11-24 2023-07-18 鲁丰织染有限公司 高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB9304887D0 (en) * 1993-03-10 1993-04-28 Courtaulds Plc Fibre treatment
GB9408742D0 (en) * 1994-05-03 1994-06-22 Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd Fabric treatment
GB9602991D0 (en) * 1996-02-14 1996-04-10 Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd Lyocell fabric treatment to reduce fibrillation tendency
GB2314568A (en) * 1996-06-28 1998-01-07 Courtaulds Fibres Fibre finishing treatment
WO1999002767A1 (fr) * 1997-07-07 1999-01-21 Novo Nordisk A/S Procede de pre-fibrillation de fibres lyocellulaires

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102634895A (zh) * 2011-03-07 2012-08-15 如皋市丁堰纺织有限公司 棉浆溶剂法纤维素纤维纯纺、混纺纱及其生产工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN1516766A (zh) 2004-07-28
CN1272499C (zh) 2006-08-30
WO2002103104A2 (fr) 2002-12-27
WO2002103104A3 (fr) 2003-11-27
EP1404917A2 (fr) 2004-04-07
KR20040011534A (ko) 2004-02-05
ES2279866T3 (es) 2007-09-01
BR0210382A (pt) 2004-08-10
TWI237671B (en) 2005-08-11
AU2002257982A1 (en) 2003-01-02

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