WO2021180817A1 - Procédé pour la réduction du comportement de boulochage d'un tissu contenant des fibres cellulosiques artificielles ou constitué de celles-ci - Google Patents

Procédé pour la réduction du comportement de boulochage d'un tissu contenant des fibres cellulosiques artificielles ou constitué de celles-ci Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021180817A1
WO2021180817A1 PCT/EP2021/056108 EP2021056108W WO2021180817A1 WO 2021180817 A1 WO2021180817 A1 WO 2021180817A1 EP 2021056108 W EP2021056108 W EP 2021056108W WO 2021180817 A1 WO2021180817 A1 WO 2021180817A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
acid
fibers
pilling
elongation
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2021/056108
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Friedrich Suchomel
Martin KÖLLERER
Dieter Eichinger
Original Assignee
Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft filed Critical Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft
Publication of WO2021180817A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021180817A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/55—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14—De-sizing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with hydrogen, water or heavy water; with hydrides of metals or complexes thereof; with boranes, diboranes, silanes, disilanes, phosphines, diphosphines, stibines, distibines, arsines, or diarsines or complexes thereof
    • D06M11/05—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with hydrogen, water or heavy water; with hydrides of metals or complexes thereof; with boranes, diboranes, silanes, disilanes, phosphines, diphosphines, stibines, distibines, arsines, or diarsines or complexes thereof with water, e.g. steam; with heavy water
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/68—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof
    • D06M11/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof with oxides of phosphorus; with hypophosphorous, phosphorous or phosphoric acids or their salts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/203—Unsaturated carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/35—Abrasion, pilling or fibrillation resistance

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method for reducing the pilling behaviour of a fabric containing or consisting of man-made cellulosic fibers, in particular modal or lyocell fibers.
  • Lyocell fibres which are solvent-spun cellulose fibres, not regenerated cellulose fibres (see ISO 2076:1999 (E)), were introduced commercially relatively recently. Lyocell fibres have a tendency to fibrillate during vigorous dyeing and finishing processes, and much effort has been put into controlling this phenomenon. In particular, treatments have been developed to remove the relatively long protruding fibre ends which are formed in the first stage of the fibrillation process (so-called "primary fibrillation”) and which otherwise produce a hairy effect, often matted, on the surface of the fabric and thus disfigure its appearance. On the other hand, the development of the shorter fibrils which are formed in the fibrillation process (so-called “secondary fibrillation”) is encouraged.
  • Modal fibres are defined in International Standard ISO 2076:1999 (E) and are high wet-modulus, high breaking- strength regenerated cellulose fibres produced using particular viscose and regeneration bath compositions which allow greater molecular orientation during stretch coagulation of the fibres.
  • Another regenerated cellulose fibre of the modal type again with high wet modulus and high breaking strength, is known as a polynosic fibre and was developed in Japan by the Tachikawa Company. Both modal and polynosic fibres are often referred to as high wet-modulus (HWM) fibres because that is their significant characteristic compared with ordinary viscose fibres.
  • HWM high wet-modulus
  • modal fibres themselves are less susceptible to fibrillation than lyocell fibres. Although fibrillation can be induced in such modal fibres by vigorous processing, controlling the fibrillation to produce the desired clean, soft-touch finish to a commercially acceptable standard has proved difficult. Polynosic fibres fibrillate more easily than modal fibres but, again, controlling the fibrillation to produce the desired surface finish is difficult.
  • the staple fibre yarns used may comprise just man-made cellulosic fibres or a blend of man-made cellulosic fibres with one or more other fibre types such as cotton, linen, polyester and nylon.
  • the fabrics may additionally include yarns which do not incorporate man-made cellulosic fibres, for example yarns of the other fibre types referred to and blends thereof.
  • a peachskin finish can be obtained by wet processing to induce primary fibrillation, removing the primary fibrils by enzymatic treatment with a cellulase, followed by further wet processing to induce secondary fibrillation. This is a lengthy and expensive process, and disposal of enzyme-containing liquors may pose environmental problems.
  • WO 03/062515 A2 discloses a process for producing a dyed and finished modal fabric having a clean, soft-touch surface finish by carrying out the steps of dyeing, washing and drying the fabric using vigorous action on the fabric in at least one of the steps, wherein before the dyeing step is carried out, the fabric is evenly impregnated with an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor and is then heat treated in a gaseous atmosphere to activate the action of the acid or acid donor, whereby the dyed and finished fabric has a clean, soft-touch surface finish free from long fibrils and visible crease marks.
  • the soft-touch finish achieved may be a peach-touch finish.
  • GB2314568 A discloses a method of finishing lyocell fabric, wherein the fabric is dyed under conventional conditions on a machine selected from the group consisting of a jet-dyeing machine, a garment drum dyeing machine, a garment drum washing machine and a wet-tumbling machine, wherein prior to the dyeing step the fabric is processed in the said machine in contact with an aqueous solution of an acid.
  • the fabric is preferably a woven fabric but may be a knitted fabric.
  • the fabric may be processed in rope or garment form.
  • the acid is preferably a strong mineral acid, such as hydrochloric acid or particularly sulphuric acid.
  • the concentration of acid in the solution is often in the range from 0.5 to 15, preferably from 1 to 5, grams per litre.
  • the temperature of the acid solution may range from ambient to the boil; elevated temperatures in the range from 60 to 95°C may be preferred.
  • the circulation time through the acid solution preferably shall be in the range from 30 to 120 minutes.
  • the present invention provides for a method for reducing the pilling behaviour of a fabric containing or consisting of man-made cellulosic fibers, wherein said fabric is treated by the following sequence: a. Impregnation of the fabric with an aqueous liquor containing at least one kind of acid for a period of 1 to 20 min at between 10 and 30°C (preferably for 2 to 10 min at between 15 and 28°C, even more preferred for 2 to 6 min at between 15 and 28°C), b. Steaming of the impregnated fabric for a period of 2 to 20 min at between 90 and 105°C (preferably for 2 to 8 min at between 95 and 104°C), c. Washing the fabric neutral.
  • pilling grade of equal or higher than 3 can be achieved.
  • a pilling grade of more than 3 may be achieved, or even at least 4 or higher.
  • pilling grade shall be understood as a pilling grade determined according to the Swiss Standard SN 198525:1990, using reference photographs. According to this standard the highest possible pilling grade is 5, i.e. defining the upper limit.
  • Up to now such pilling grades of fabrics containing man-made cellulosic fibers can be only achieved by crosslinking or resination of the fabric.
  • the acids used are non-volatile or low-volatile, in order not to harm the workers and the equipment used.
  • Such acids are e.g. sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, oxalic acid and polyacrylic acid.
  • pollution can also be avoided by a housing of the treatment device.
  • the acid is one that does not damage the material of the machines, which are used for performing the method.
  • a stainless steel as defined e.g. in EN 10020 and EN 10027. Commonly used stainless steels are also identified as 1.4301, 1.4541, 1.4307, 1.4401, 1.4571 and 1.4404.
  • the acid shows a pKs-value of equal or lower than 3.0.
  • the first pKs-value i.e. that of the first proton to dissociate shall be equal or lower than 3.0.
  • Sulfuric acid is particularly preferred for the method of the invention. A concentration of between 1.0 and 10.0 % sulfuric acid is preferred, more preferred between 1.2% and 7.0 %, even more preferred - especially if the cellulosic fibers are lyocell fibers - between 1.2 % and 3.5 %.
  • the present invention will mainly be applied to fabrics containing or consisting of staple fibers, the teaching of the invention applies to endless filaments made according to the lyocell or modal process, as well. Therefore, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “fiber” means staple fibers as well as filaments.
  • the fabric containing or consisting of man-made cellulosic fibers may contain between 10% and 100% of man-made cellulosic fibers.
  • the fabric may contain at least 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90% or even 95% of man-made cellulosic fibers.
  • the remainder may be natural fibers like cotton and/or synthetic fibers like polyester, polyamide, elasthan fibers and/or other synthetic fibers.
  • the man-made cellulosic fibers are lyocell fibers.
  • the temperature and duration of the impregnation step, the concentration of the impregnation liquor and the temperature and duration of the steaming step are controlled in a way which results in fibers with an elongation at break (conditioned) of between 2.9 % and 5.0 %, preferably between 3.0 % and 5.0 %.
  • the elongation at break (conditioned) was measured according to the commonly known method as described e.g. in the BISFA Booklet “Testing methods viscose, modal, lyocell and acetate staple fibres and tows”, Edition 2004. This feature was found surprisingly because no direct correlation between the elongation of a fiber and the pilling behavior of the fabric containing this fiber was known or even expected in the state of the art.
  • the enzyme activity then will be stopped by heating the mixture at a temperature of 80°C or even more for at least 10 min.
  • the whole treatment should be done while applying vigorous action, thereby causing friction on the fabric by a suitable device, e.g. a garment dyeing machine (e.g. of the brand “T upesa”), followed by drying in a tumbler.
  • a suitable device e.g. a garment dyeing machine (e.g. of the brand “T upesa”)
  • the enzyme treatment, washing and drying can be done in rope form in a jet dyeing machine (e.g. of manufacturer THEN, type Airflow).
  • the temperature and duration of the impregnation step, the concentration of the impregnation liquor, the temperature and duration of the steaming step and the pH-value and the duration of the enzyme treatment are controlled in a way results in fibers with an elongation at break (conditioned) of between 6.0 % and 9.0 %.
  • the elongation at break (conditioned) was measured according to the commonly known method as described e.g. in the BISFA Booklet “Testing methods viscose, modal, lyocell and acetate staple fibres and tows”, Edition 2004. This feature was found surprisingly because no direct correlation between the elongation of a fiber and the pilling behavior of the fabric containing this fiber was known or even expected in the state of the art.
  • Another aspect of the present invention is a fabric containing or consisting of lyocell fibers showing an elongation at break (conditioned) of between 2.9 % and 5.0 % for the manufacture of a fabric with a pilling grade of equal or higher than 3, that was not crosslinked or resin-treated.
  • the pilling grade is higher than 3, in particular at least 4 or higher.
  • a further aspect of the present invention is the use of lyocell fibers showing an elongation at break (conditioned) of between 2.9 % and 5.0 %, available by the method of the invention as described above, for the manufacture of a fabric with a pilling grade of equal or higher than 3, wherein the fabric is not treated by crosslinking or resin treatment.
  • the pilling grade is higher than 3, in particular at least 4 or higher.
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention is a fabric containing or consisting of modal fibers showing an elongation at break (conditioned) of between 6.0 % and 9.0 % for the manufacture of a fabric with a pilling grade of equal or higher than
  • the pilling grade is higher than 3, in particular at least 4 or higher.
  • a further aspect of the present invention is the use of modal fibers showing an elongation at break (conditioned) of between 6.0 % and 9.0 %, available by the method of the invention as described above, for the manufacture of a fabric with a pilling grade of equal or higher than 3, wherein the fabric is not treated by crosslinking or resin treatment.
  • the pilling grade is higher than 3, in particular at least 4 or higher.
  • FDk (conditioned) - (“FDk”) - were measured according to the BISFA Booklet “Testing methods viscose, modal, lyocell and acetate staple fibres and tows”, Edition 2004.
  • Pilling grade was determined according to the Swiss Standard SN
  • Grade 1 means very severe pilling while grade 5 means no pilling. From a commercial point of view grade 4 is acceptable and grade 5 is excellent, while grade 3 or lower means unacceptable appearance. Pilling grade was evaluated on the dried fabrics after the finish treatment, and again on some of the fabrics after the washing test.
  • Example 1 Lyocell fabrics [0029] The following knitted fabric was used: Interlock fabric made of an Nm 50/1 Ring yarn made of 100% lyocell staple fibers, 38mm/1.3 dtex (origin of the fibers: Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft, Austria).
  • the fabrics were prewashed for 20 minutes at 80°C using a lye with the following composition: 1.0 g/l Kieralon JET, 1.0 g/l sodium carbonate, 1.0 g/l Albaflow FFA, 1.0 g/l Persoftal L. Thereafter the fabrics were rinsed warm (10 min at 55°C) and cold (10 min at 20°C) with water.
  • the fabrics were treated with acid according to the invention as follows: On a foulard the fabric was impregnated with 60 weight-% of a solution containing 1.5 weight-% resp. 3.0 weight-% sulfuric acid for a duration of 3 min at room temperature (25°C). Thereafter the impregnated fabric was steamed in a steamer for 3 min at 102°C with saturated steam. Thereafter it was rinsed warm (10 min at 55°C) and cold (10 min, 20°C).

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour la réduction du comportement de boulochage d'un tissu contenant des fibres cellulosiques artificielles ou constitué de celles-ci, ledit tissu étant traité par la séquence suivante : l'imprégnation du tissu avec une liqueur aqueuse contenant au moins un type d'acide pendant une durée de 1 à 20 min à une température comprise entre 10 et 30 °C, le traitement à la vapeur d'eau du tissu imprégné pendant une durée de 2 à 20 min à une température comprise entre 90 et 100 °C et le lavage du tissu jusqu'à la neutralité. Un autre aspect de l'invention concerne un tissu contenant des fibres lyocell ou constitué de celles-ci présentant un allongement à la rupture (à l'état conditionné) compris entre 2,9 % et 5,0 % destiné à la fabrication d'un tissu ayant un grade de boulochage supérieur ou égal à 3, qui n'a pas été réticulé ou traité avec de la résine, ainsi que l'utilisation de ce tissu.
PCT/EP2021/056108 2020-03-12 2021-03-10 Procédé pour la réduction du comportement de boulochage d'un tissu contenant des fibres cellulosiques artificielles ou constitué de celles-ci WO2021180817A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20162767 2020-03-12
EP20162767.6 2020-03-12

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021180817A1 true WO2021180817A1 (fr) 2021-09-16

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WO (1) WO2021180817A1 (fr)

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1148099A (en) * 1966-06-23 1969-04-10 Stevens & Co Inc J P Stabilization of knit cellulosic textile materials
WO1995030043A1 (fr) 1994-05-03 1995-11-09 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement d'une etoffe en fibre lyocell (fibre de cellulose tissee dans un solvant), destine a reduire la tendance de cette fibre a la fibrillation
WO1997030204A1 (fr) 1996-02-14 1997-08-21 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Procede permettant d'affaiblir la tendance de tissu lyocellulaire a une fibrillation primaire
GB2314568A (en) 1996-06-28 1998-01-07 Courtaulds Fibres Fibre finishing treatment
US6051034A (en) * 1998-09-30 2000-04-18 Springs Industries, Inc. Methods for reducing pilling of towels
WO2003062515A2 (fr) 2002-01-17 2003-07-31 Tencel Limited Teinture et appretage de tissus modaux
KR20030087215A (ko) * 2002-05-08 2003-11-14 강문순 인산 및 알카리를 이용한 라이오셀 섬유 소재 직물 및편직물의 의마가공 방법

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1148099A (en) * 1966-06-23 1969-04-10 Stevens & Co Inc J P Stabilization of knit cellulosic textile materials
WO1995030043A1 (fr) 1994-05-03 1995-11-09 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Traitement d'une etoffe en fibre lyocell (fibre de cellulose tissee dans un solvant), destine a reduire la tendance de cette fibre a la fibrillation
WO1997030204A1 (fr) 1996-02-14 1997-08-21 Courtaulds Fibres (Holdings) Limited Procede permettant d'affaiblir la tendance de tissu lyocellulaire a une fibrillation primaire
GB2314568A (en) 1996-06-28 1998-01-07 Courtaulds Fibres Fibre finishing treatment
US6051034A (en) * 1998-09-30 2000-04-18 Springs Industries, Inc. Methods for reducing pilling of towels
WO2003062515A2 (fr) 2002-01-17 2003-07-31 Tencel Limited Teinture et appretage de tissus modaux
KR20030087215A (ko) * 2002-05-08 2003-11-14 강문순 인산 및 알카리를 이용한 라이오셀 섬유 소재 직물 및편직물의 의마가공 방법

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Testing methods viscose, modal, lyocell and acetate staple fibres and tows", BISFA BOOKLET, 2004

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