Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/85—Polyesters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
  • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
  • C08G63/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic ester link in the main chain of the macromolecule
  • C08G63/02—Polyesters derived from hydroxycarboxylic acids or from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds
  • C08G63/12—Polyesters derived from hydroxycarboxylic acids or from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds derived from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
  • C08G63/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic ester link in the main chain of the macromolecule
  • C08G63/02—Polyesters derived from hydroxycarboxylic acids or from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds
  • C08G63/12—Polyesters derived from hydroxycarboxylic acids or from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds derived from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds
  • C08G63/16—Dicarboxylic acids and dihydroxy compounds
  • C08G63/20—Polyesters having been prepared in the presence of compounds having one reactive group or more than two reactive groups

Definitions

• the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising polymers of the polyester class, as well as to their use notably in lipsticks.
• compositions according to the invention can be applied to substrates such as the skin of the face or of the body, the lips and keratinous materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.
• esters resulting from the condensation of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of the “neo” type notably in FR2838049.
• EP1457201 describes a composition combining a polyester of triglycerides of hydroxylated carboxylic acids and an oil of low molecular weight selected from the polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes hydrogenated or not, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidones, esters of linear fatty acids, hydroxylated esters, esters of fatty alcohols or of C 24 -C 28 branched fatty acids, silicone oils and/or oils of vegetable origin.
• Patent application EP0792637 describes a composition combining an aromatic ester and a polymer of the polybutene or polyisobutene type.
• Patent application EP1155687 describes a method comprising incorporating, in an oily phase comprising a cosmetically acceptable oil, an organopolysiloxane possessing at least 2 groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
• compositions and combinations when they are in the form of a stick or poured in a pot, have a relatively low gloss compared with liquid or paste compositions.
• the polymers used within the scope of the present invention are preferably alkyd resins, which constitute a particular class of polyesters, being the product of reaction of polyols and polycarboxylic acids, generally modified with unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, or with unsaturated oils, for example soya oil or castor oil.
• Cosmetic compositions comprising polyesters are described in the prior art.
• document FR2562793 which describes the use of sucrose benzoate in combination with toluene sulphonamide formaldehyde resins
• document JP61246113 which describes the use of sucrose benzoate in combination with a glycidyl versatate ester modified alkyd resin.
• WO2002243676 which describes the use of a neopentyl glycol trimellitate adipate polyester resin in combination with copolymers of alkyl acrylates and methacrylates.
• JP58023614 which describes the use of a modified polyester obtained by condensation of pentaerythritol with cis-4-cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid and castor oil fatty acids, then reaction with a dioxirane compound of the epoxy resin type; or JP54011244 which describes the use of a modified polyester obtained by condensation of dipentaerythritol with cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylic acid and castor oil fatty acids then reaction with a dioxirane compound of the epoxy resin type.
• polyesters used within the scope of the present invention have a structure that is different from that of the known polyesters. Moreover, when they are formulated in combination with particular ingredients, they make it possible to achieve cosmetic properties equal to or even better than the performance already obtained with the known polyesters.
• the aim of the present invention is to propose cast cosmetic compositions, for which the level of gloss reaches, for the first time, that of a cosmetic composition in the form of a paste or of a liquid such as a gloss.
• polyesters lead to solid cosmetic compositions, cast or in the form of a stick, which display, once they are applied, a gloss that is as high as the gloss obtained in the prior art with liquid compositions.
• the present invention therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition, notably cast, comprising at least one polyester that can be obtained by reaction:
• the present invention also relates to a cast cosmetic composition containing a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polymer, a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polymer, or a mixture thereof.
• Hydrocarbon means a radical or a compound formed essentially, i.e. constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, or phosphorus atoms, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom. It can contain alcohol, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
• hydrocarbon denotes a radical or a compound constituted solely of atoms of carbon and of hydrogen, and of oxygen.
• Branched means a compound comprising at least one branching containing at least two carbon atoms.
• the polyisobutenes are not branched in the sense of the present invention. More generally, the number of branchings of a molecule corresponds to the number of side groups containing at least one carbon atom and branched on the main chain of the molecule, the main chain corresponding to the longest carbon chain of the molecule (see Organic Chemistry, S. H. Pine, 5th Edition; McGraw-Hill, chapter 3).
• composition of the invention can be in the form of paste, of solid, or more or less viscous cream. It can be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a rigid or flexible anhydrous gel. In particular, it is cast as a stick or in a dish, and more especially in the form of a rigid anhydrous gel, notably an anhydrous stick.
• the hardness of the composition can range from 30 to 300 g, notably from 50 to 250 g, preferably from 70 to 230 g, for example from 100 to 200 g, notably from 150 to 175 g. These values reflect the texture of a solid composition, notably that is liable to disintegrate on keratinous materials, whether it is cast in a pot or cast in the form of a stick.
• the hardness of a stick can be measured by the “cheese wire” method, which comprises cutting a lipstick of 12.7 mm and measuring the hardness at 20° C., using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company Indelco-Chatillon with displacement at a rate of 100 mm/minute. It is expressed as the shearing force (expressed in grams) required to cut a stick under these conditions.
• the hardness of a composition according to the invention ranges notably from 50 to 300 g, preferably from 100 to 250 g and for example from 150 to 230 g.
• the hardness of the composition according to the invention can also be measured by means of a texturometer, which shows the change in resistance to deformation of the composition as a function of the displacement of a spindle in a sample of said composition.
• the texturometer measures the force of resistance to deformation of the composition once the spindle comes into contact with the sample. After reaching a programmed maximum depth L0 in the sample, the spindle returns to the starting point.
• the hardness (expressed in gram or in newton) is equal to the value of resistance of the composition when the spindle is at the end of its travel, and the elasticity (expressed as percentage) is equal to the ratio of i) the distance L at which loss of contact occurs between the spindle and the sample during withdrawal of the spindle and ii) the distance L0. Loss of contact is reflected in nullification of the force of resistance of the composition on the spindle.
• the texturometer used can notably be a Stable Micro System TAX-T2i® texturometer equipped with operating software of the type Texture Expert Exceed® fitted with a hemispherical plastic spindle P/0.5 HS Rheo's.
• the samples of composition are prepared by pouring, while hot, a sufficient amount of the composition to be tested, for example in a previously calibrated 100 ⁇ 15 mm Petri dish, to obtain a sample about 1 cm thick.
• the advantage of choosing this form of “packaging” is that it is of sufficient width to avoid any edge effect.
• Two Petri dishes are prepared in this way, and are left to stand for a minimum of 24 h at 20° C. before characterization.
• At least three measurements are performed on each sample: one at the centre and the others located at equal distance from its centre and its edge.
• the hardness is equal to the mean value of the measurements taken, with a minimum number of six.
• the hardness of the composition measured according to this method can vary from 30 g to 200 g, notably from 50 g to 190 g, especially from 70 to 175 g and more particularly from 100 g to 150 g.
• the wet gloss index of a film of the composition according to the invention can be measured according to a method of evaluation that includes stages comprising, with the film illuminated by at least one light source:
• measurement of the perceived gloss includes stages comprising:
• Image processing can for example include detection of patches of a large extent, by definition with an area exceeding 100 pixels, and the corresponding total area Ab can be measured.
• the processing can also include the detection of patches of a small extent, by definition with an area less than 20 pixels, and the corresponding total area As can be measured.
• the wet gloss index can for example be defined by the formula 40 log [(1+Ab)/(1+As)].
• the image representative of non-diffuse gloss can be generated otherwise than by difference of the images P ⁇ C, for example by the operation (P ⁇ C)/(P+C) executed pixel by pixel.
• the image representative of undiffused gloss can be obtained by colour or spectral polarimetric imaging.
• the chromatic or spectral characteristics of the image and in particular of the zones of gloss can be taken into account for calculating the various indices.
• high gloss i.e. when the zones of gloss have a sufficient contrast against a diffuse background, it is possible to calculate the wet gloss index on non-polarized images generated under visible, ultraviolet or infrared illumination.
• the wet gloss index of the compositions according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30, more preferably greater than or equal to 40.
• the wet gloss index is less than 150, in particular less than 100, or less than 80.
• the polyester (also called polycondensate hereinafter) is advantageously obtained by reaction of a polyol, of a polycarboxylic acid, of a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid.
• the content of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 5 and 80 wt. %, preferably between 20 and 70 wt. %, for example from 25 to 65 wt. % relative to the total weight of the polycondensate.
• the polyesters are advantageously obtained from the reaction of a polyol, of a polycarboxylic acid and of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, said monocarboxylic acid being at a high content.
• the polycondensates can be obtained by esterification/polycondensation, according to the methods known by a person skilled in the art, of the constituents described below.
• One of the constituents required for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a polyol, preferably comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, notably 3 to 4 hydroxyl groups. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said polyols.
• Said polyol can notably be a carbon compound, notably a hydrocarbon, linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 12, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH), and can additionally comprise one or more oxygen atoms inserted in the chain (ether function).
• a carbon compound notably a hydrocarbon, linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 12, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH), and can additionally comprise one or more oxygen atoms inserted in the chain (ether function).
• Said polyol is preferably a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon compound, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 12, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH).
• the polyol is selected from glycerol, pentaerythritol, diglycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and better still the polyol is a tetraol such as pentaerythritol.
• the polyol, or the polyol mixture preferably represents 10 to 30 wt. %, notably 12 to 25 wt. %, and better still 14 to 22 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid Another constituent necessary for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid.
• the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid can be saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 28 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 24, or even 12 to 20, carbon atoms. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids.
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid we mean a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 5 to 31 carbon atoms, notably 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and better still 9 to 23 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 19 carbon atoms.
• radical R is saturated.
• said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably of C 5 -C 31 , or even of C 11 -C 21 .
• the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid has a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., notably greater than or equal to 28° C., or even 30° C.; it has in fact been found that when such an acid is used, especially in a large amount, it is possible on the one hand to obtain a good gloss and durability of said gloss, and on the other hand to reduce the amount of waxes usually present in the composition envisaged.
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids mentioned previously having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., we may mention, alone or mixed:
• the following may be used: 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and better still isostearic acid alone or stearic acid alone.
• Said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids preferably represents 30 to 80 wt. %, notably 40 to 75 wt. %, or even 45 to 70 wt. %, and better still 50 to 65 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• Another constituent necessary for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is an aromatic monocarboxylic acid.
• This acid can comprise 7 to 11 carbon atoms, in addition optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12, or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
• aromatic monocarboxylic acid we mean a compound of formula R′COOH, in which R′ is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular the benzoic and naphthoic radicals.
• Said radical R′ can in addition be substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 1 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12, or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and notably selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, terbutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, cyclopentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, heptyl, isoheptyl, octyl or isooctyl.
• 1 to 3 alkyl radicals saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 1 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12, or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and notably selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, is
• benzoic acid 4-tert-butyl-benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, alone or mixed; and better still benzoic acid alone.
• Said aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids preferably represents 0.1 to 10 wt. %, notably 0.5 to 9.95 wt. %, better still 1 to 9.5 wt. %, or even 1.5 to 8 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• the polyester can be obtained from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 10 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 28 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., notably greater than or equal to 28° C., or even 30° C. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids.
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid we mean a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 9 to 31 carbon atoms, notably 11 to 27 carbon atoms, and better still 11 to 23 carbon atoms.
• radical R is saturated.
• said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably of C 11 -C 21 .
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C. that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:
• Said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid with melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., or the mixture of said acids preferably represents 22 to 80 wt. %, notably 25 to 75 wt. %, or even 27 to 70 wt. %, and better still 28 to 65 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• the polyester can be obtained from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 28 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 20, or even 12 to 18, carbon atoms; and having a melting point strictly below 25° C., notably below 20° C., or even 15° C. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids.
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid we mean a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 5 to 31 carbon atoms, notably 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and better still 9 to 19 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 17 carbon atoms.
• radical R is saturated.
• said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably of C 5 -C 31 .
• non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting point below 25° C. that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:
• Said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid of melting point below 25° C., or the mixture of said acids preferably represents 0.1 to 35 wt. %, notably 0.5 to 32 wt. %, or even 1 to 30 wt. %, and better still 2 to 28 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• the polyester is obtained from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., and to 30° C. and from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, having a melting point below 25° C.
• the total amount of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids is advantageously between 30 and 80 wt. %, notably between 40 and 70 wt. %, or even between 45 and 65 wt. %, and better still between 50 and 60 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• Another constituent necessary for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH, notably 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said polycarboxylic acids and/or of anhydrides.
• Said polycarboxylic acid can notably be selected from the linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic polycarboxylic acids, comprising 3 to 50, notably 3 to 40, carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 36, or even 3 to 18, and better still 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms;
• Said acid comprises at least two carboxyl groups COOH, preferably 2 to 4 COOH groups.
• said polycarboxylic acid is aliphatic and has 3 to 36 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or alternatively said polycarboxylic acid is aromatic and has 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Preferably it comprises 2 to 4 COOH groups.
• the cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid can notably correspond to one of the following formulae:
• a and B represent a hydrogen atom or together form an aromatic ring comprising in total 6 carbon atoms.
• adipic acid Preferably, it is possible to use adipic acid, phthalic anhydride and/or isophthalic acid, and better still isophthalic acid alone.
• Said polycarboxylic acid and/or its cyclic anhydride preferably represents 5 to 40 wt. %, notably 10 to 30 wt. %, and better still 14 to 25 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.
• the polycondensate can additionally comprise a silicone with a hydroxyl (OH) and/or carboxyl (COOH) function.
• It can comprise 1 to 3 hydroxyl and/or carboxyl functions, and preferably comprises two hydroxyl functions or alternatively two carboxyl functions.
• silicones are used having a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) between 300 and 20000, notably 400 and 10 000, or even 800 and 4000.
• Mw weight-average molecular weight
• This silicone can be of formula:
• ⁇ , ⁇ -diol or ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic polyalkylsiloxanes and notably the ⁇ , ⁇ -diol polydimethysiloxanes and the ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic polydimethylsiloxanes; the ⁇ , ⁇ -diol or ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic polyarylsiloxanes and notably the ⁇ , ⁇ -diol or ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic polyphenylsiloxanes; the polyarylsiloxanes with silanol functions such as polyphenylsiloxane; the polyalkylsiloxanes with silanol functions such as polydimethylsiloxane; the polyaryl/alkylsiloxanes with silanol functions such as polyphenyl/methylsiloxane or polyphenyl/propylsiloxane.
• Mw weight-average molecular weight
• said silicone can preferably represent 0.1 to 15 wt. %, notably 1 to 10 wt. %, or even 2 to 8 wt. %, of the weight of the polycondensate.
• the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a molar amount less than or equal to that of the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid; notably the ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.08 and 0.70, notably between 0.10 and 0.60, in particular between 0.12 and 0.40.
• the polyester can be obtained by reaction of:
• the polyester is selected from the benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polymers, the benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polymers, and mixtures thereof.
• the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid does not contain a free OH group.
• the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:
• said polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:
• the composition comprises a polycondensate as defined above, such that the ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70.
• the composition comprises a polycondensate as defined above, with the proviso that when the polycondensate comprises 10 wt. % of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally substituted additionally with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms; then the ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70.
• the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:
• the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:
• the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:
• the polycondensate has:
• the acid number and hydroxyl number can easily be determined by a person skilled in the art by the usual analytical methods.
• the polycondensate has a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) between 1500 and 300 000, or even between 2000 and 200 000, and notably between 3000 and 100 000.
• Mw weight-average molecular weight
• the average molecular weight can be determined by gel permeation chromatography or by light scattering, depending on the solubility of the polymer in question.
• the polycondensate has a viscosity, measured at 110° C., between 20 and 4000 mPa ⁇ s, notably between 30 and 3500 mPa ⁇ s, or even between 40 and 3000 mPa ⁇ s and better still between 50 and 2500 mPa ⁇ s. This viscosity is measured in the manner described before the examples.
• the polycondensate is advantageously soluble in the oily cosmetic media usually employed, and notably in vegetable oils, alkanes, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, and more particularly in media comprising isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, phenyl trimethicone, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate and/or D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane).
• oily cosmetic media usually employed, and notably in vegetable oils, alkanes, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, and more particularly in media comprising isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, phenyl trimethicone, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate and/or D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane).
• soluble we mean that the polymer forms a clear solution in at least one solvent selected from isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and Cl 2 —C 1-5 alkyl benzoate, at a rate of at least 50 wt. %, at 70° C.
• solvents selected from isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and Cl 2 —C 1-5 alkyl benzoate
• the polycondensate can be prepared by the methods of esterification/polycondensation usually employed by a person skilled in the art.
• a general method of preparation comprises:
• esterification catalysts for example of the sulphonic acid type (notably at a concentration by weight between 1 and 10%) or titanate type (notably at a concentration by weight between 5 and 100 ppm).
• Said method of preparation can further comprise a stage of addition of at least one antioxidant to the reaction mixture, notably at a concentration by weight between 0.01 and 1%, relative to the total weight of monomers, so as to limit any degradation associated with prolonged heating.
• the antioxidant can be of primary type or of secondary type, and can be selected from hindered phenols, secondary aromatic amines, organophosphorus compounds, sulphur compounds, lactones, acrylated bisphenols; and mixtures thereof.
• antioxidants that are particularly preferred, we may notably mention BHT, BHA, TBHQ, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)-benzene, octadecyl-3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxycinnamate, tetrakis-methylene-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxy-phenyl)propionate methane, octadecyl-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate 2,5-di-tertbutyl hydroquinone, 2,2-methyl-bis-(4-methyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 2,2-methylene-bis-(4-ethyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 4,4-butylidene-bis(6-tertbutyl-m-cresol), N,N-hexamethylene bis
• the amount of polycondensate present in the compositions depends of course on the type of composition and on the properties required and can vary over a very wide range, generally between 0.1 and 70 wt. %, preferably between 1 and 50 wt. %, notably between 10 and 45 wt. %, or even between 20 and 40 wt. %, and better still between 25 and 35 wt. %, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.
• the amount of polycondensate present in the compositions is between 10 and 20 wt. % relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.
• the non-volatile oil can represent 1 to 90 wt. % of the composition, notably from 5 to 75 wt. %, in particular from 10 to 60 wt. %, or even from 25 to 55 wt. %, of the total weight of the composition.
• the non-volatile oil can represent from 35 to 60 wt. %.
• non-volatile oil means an oil having a vapour pressure below 0.13 Pa.
• the non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
• silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si—O group.
• Hydrocarbon oil means an oil containing mainly atoms of hydrogen and carbon and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorus atoms.
• Hydrocarbon means an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• the non-volatile oils can notably be selected from the hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated if necessary, and/or the non-volatile silicone oils.
• non-volatile hydrocarbon oil we may notably mention:
• esters can notably be selected from esters, notably of fatty acid for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropylstearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and notably isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptan
• the non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, the phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicones with viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
• the silicone oil corresponds to the formula
• groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl.
• said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
• the silicone oil corresponds to the formula
• the non-volatile oil is preferably apolar, in the sense that its solubility parameter delta an is equal to 0.
• the composition can contain a wax.
• “Wax” in the sense of the present invention means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25° C.), with reversible solid/liquid transition, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30° C. and up to 120° C.
• the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the designation DSC 30 by the Company METTLER.
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• the waxes can be hydrocarbon waxes, fluorinated waxes and/or silicone waxes and can be of vegetable, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
• the waxes have a melting point above 25° C. and better still above 45° C.
• wax that can be used in the first we may mention linear hydrocarbon waxes.
• Their melting point is advantageously above 35° C., for example above 55° C., preferably above 80° C.
• the linear hydrocarbon waxes are advantageously selected from substituted linear alkanes, unsubstituted linear alkanes, unsubstituted linear alkenes, substituted linear alkenes, an unsubstituted compound being composed solely of carbon and hydrogen.
• the linear hydrocarbon waxes include the polymers and copolymers of ethylene, of molecular weight between 400 and 800, for example Polywax 500 or Polywax 400 marketed by New Phase Technologies.
• the linear hydrocarbon waxes include the linear paraffin waxes, such as paraffins S&P 206, S&P 173 and S&P 434 from Strahl & Pitsch.
• the linear hydrocarbon waxes include the long-chain linear alcohols, such as the products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and of alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, notably Performacol 425 or Performacol 550 (mixture in the proportions 20/80) marketed by New Phase Technologies.
• silicone waxes are for example
• the amount of wax in the composition according to the invention can range from 5 to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40 wt. %, and better still from 10 to 30 wt. %.
• composition according to the invention can contain a colourant, at a rate of 0.5 to 50% of colourant, preferably 2 to 40% and better still 5 to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the colourant can be any inorganic and/or organic compound, displaying absorption between 350 and 700 nm, or capable of generating an optical effect such as the reflection of incident light or interference, for example.
• the colourants for use in the present invention are selected from all the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the industry, notably those described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopaedia of chemical technology and in Ullmann's encyclopaedia of industrial chemistry.
• mineral colourants we may mention titanium dioxide, with or without surface treatment, zinc oxide, oxides of zirconium or of cerium, oxides of iron or of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
• the following mineral pigments can be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 mixed with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
• organic colourants we may mention the nitroso, nitro, azo compounds, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, compounds of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.
• the colourants can be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorgho red, blue pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained
• the pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426.
• These composite pigments can be composed notably of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for fixing organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
• the colourants can be selected from dyes, lakes or pigments.
• the dyes are for example fat-soluble dyes, although water-soluble dyes can be used.
• the fat-soluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. They can represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%.
• Water-soluble dyes are notably beetroot juice, methylene blue and can represent from 0.1 to 6 wt. % of the composition (if present).
• “Lake” means dyes that are adsorbed on insoluble particles, the composite thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
• Inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, borosilicate of calcium and sodium or borosilicate of calcium and aluminium, and aluminium.
• organic dyes we may mention carmine.
• D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
• Pigments means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, intended for colouring and/or opacifying the composition.
• the pigments according to the invention can for example be selected from white or coloured pigments, pigments with special effects such as nacres, reflective pigments or pigments producing interference effects.
• pigments that can be used in the invention we may mention oxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, and ferric blue.
• organic pigments that can be used in the invention we may mention carbon black, and the lakes of barium, strontium, calcium (D & C Red No 7) and aluminium.
• Nacres can be present in the composition at a rate of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in a proportion of the order of 1 to 15%.
• nacres that can be used in the invention, we may mention mica coated with titanium dioxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride such as coloured titanium mica.
• the pigments can be present in the composition at a rate of 0.05 to 30% of the weight of the final composition, and preferably at a rate of 2 to 20%.
• the variety of the pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colours, as well as special optical effects such as metallic or interference effects.
• pigments with special effects we mean pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain brightness) that is non-uniform, and varies depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angle etc.). They thus differ from the white or coloured pigments, which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent hue.
• pigments with special effects we may mention white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide, or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and with an organic pigment as defined previously, as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
• nacreous pigments we may mention Cellini nacres marketed by Engelhard (Mica-TiO 2 -lake), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO 2 ), Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO 2 —Fe 2 O 3 ).
• pigments with interference effect that are not fixed to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek).
• Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, and thermochromic pigments.
• the composition contains goniochromatic pigments, for example multilayer interference pigments, and/or reflective pigments. These two types of pigments are described in application FR0209246, the contents of which are incorporated in the present application by reference.
• the composition can contain reflective pigments, which may or may not be of the goniochromatic type or of the interference type.
• Their size is compatible with the phenomenon of specular reflection of visible light (400-700 nm), of sufficient intensity, taking into account the mean gloss of the composition, to create highlights. Said size can vary depending on the chemical nature of the particles, their shape and their specular reflectivity for visible light.
• the reflective particles will preferably have a size of at least 10 ⁇ m, for example between about 20 ⁇ m and about 50 ⁇ m.
• size we mean the size given by the statistical granulometric distribution for half of the population, called D50.
• the size of the reflective particles will depend on their surface condition. The higher the reflectivity of the latter, the smaller the size can be, a priori, and vice versa.
• Reflective particles for use in the invention can for example reflect light in all the components of the visible region without significantly absorbing one or more wavelengths.
• the spectral reflectance of these reflective particles can for example be greater than 70% in the range 400-700 nm, and better still at least 80%, or 90% or even 95%.
• the reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material, which coats a substrate.
• the substrate can be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates and synthetic mica, this list not being exhaustive.
• the reflective material can comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic compound.
• the layer of metal or of metallic compound may or may not completely envelop the substrate, and the layer of metal can be at least partially covered by a layer of another material, for example a transparent material. It may be preferable for the layer of metal or of metallic compound to coat the substrate directly or indirectly, i.e. with interposition of at least one, metallic or nonmetallic, intermediate layer.
• the metal can be selected for example from Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their alloys.
• Ag, Au, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, Cu and their alloys are the preferred metals.
• the metallic layer can be present at a content representing for example from 0.1 to 50% of the total weight of the particles, or even between 1 and 20%.
• Glass particles coated with a metallic layer are described notably in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
• Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of flakes, are sold under the designation MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL.
• Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the designation CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
• the reflective particles can also be selected from particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metallic compound, notably a metal oxide, selected for example from the oxides of titanium, notably TiO 2 , of iron, notably Fe 2 O 3 , of tin, of chromium; barium sulphate and the following compounds: MgF 2 , CrF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , SeO 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , MoS 2 and mixtures or alloys thereof.
• a metal oxide selected for example from the oxides of titanium, notably TiO 2 , of iron, notably Fe 2 O 3 , of tin, of chromium; barium sulphate and the following compounds: MgF 2 , CrF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, SiO
• particles comprising a substrate of synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated either with brown iron oxide, or with titanium dioxide, tin oxide or one of their mixtures, such as those sold under the tradename REFLECKS® by the company ENGELHARD.
• Pigments from the METASHINE 1080R range marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS CO. LTD. are also suitable for the invention.
• These pigments are glass flakes of C-GLASS comprising 65 to 72% of SiO 2 , covered with a layer of titanium dioxide of the rutile type (TiO 2 ). These glass flakes have an average thickness of 1 micron and an average size of 80 microns, i.e. a ratio of average size to average thickness of 80. They give blue, green, yellow or silvery reflections, depending on the thickness of the layer of TiO 2 .
• particles of size between 80 and 100 ⁇ m comprising a substrate of synthetic mica (fluorophlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide representing 12% of the total weight of the particle, sold under the designation PROMINENCE by the company NIHON KOKEN.
• the reflective particles can further be selected from the particles formed from a stack of at least two layers with different refractive indices. These layers can be of a polymeric or metallic nature and notably include at least one polymeric layer. Said particles are notably described in WO 99/36477, U.S. Pat. No. 6,299,979 and U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,498. By way of illustration of the materials that can constitute the various layers of the multilayer structure, we may mention, this list not being limitative: polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) and its isomers, polyalkylene terephthalates, and polyimides.
• PEN polyethylene naphthalate
• Reflective particles comprising a stack of at least two layers of polymers are marketed by the company 3M under the designation MIRROR GLITTER. These particles comprise layers of 2,6-PEN and of poly(methyl methacrylate) at a ratio by mass of 80/20. Such particles are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,825,643.
• the composition can contain one or more goniochromatic pigments.
• the goniochromatic colourant can be selected for example from the multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colourants.
• a multilayer structure it can have for example at least two layers, each layer, independently, or not, of the other layer or layers, being made for example from at least one material selected from the group comprising the following materials: MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3 , Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MOS 2 , cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.
• the multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, symmetry at the level of the chemical nature of the stacked layers.
• Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used are for example the following structures: Al/SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /AI, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr/MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 /Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the designation CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS 2 /SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 , and Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 , pigments having these structures being marketed under the designation SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS 2 /SiO 2 /mica-oxide/SiO 2 /MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /mica
• these pigments can be the pigments of silica/titanium dioxide/tin oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC by the company MERCK, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the pigments of silica/titanium dioxide/mica/tin oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK.
• Various effects are obtained, depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers.
• Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 structure it ranges from golden-green to grey-red for layers of SiO 2 from 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO 2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for layers of SiO 2 from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for layers of SiO 2 from 430 to 440 nm.
• goniochromatic colourants with a multilayer structure comprising alternating polymeric layers, for example such as polyethylene naphthalate and polyethylene terephthalate. Said colourants are notably described in WO-A-96/19347 and WO-A-99/36478.
• pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure those marketed by the company 3M under the designation COLOR GLITTER.
• the colourants with liquid crystals comprise for example silicones or cellulose ethers on which mesomorphic groups are grafted.
• goniochromatic particles with liquid crystals it is possible to use for example those sold by the company CHENIX as well as those marketed under the designation HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER.
• composition can in addition comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibres.
• Such fibres can for example have a size between 200 ⁇ m and 700 ⁇ m, for example about 300 ⁇ m.
• Fibres with a multilayer structure of polymers are notably described in documents EP-A-921217, EP-A-686858 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,472,798.
• the multilayer structure can comprise at least two layers, each layer, independently, or not, of the other layer or layers, being made from at least one synthetic polymer.
• the polymers present in the fibres can have a refractive index in the range from 1.30 to 1.82 and better still in the range from 1.35 to 1.75.
• the preferred polymers for constituting the fibres are polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polycarbonate; acrylic polymers such as poly(methyl methacrylate); polyamides.
• Goniochromatic fibres with a polyethylene terephthalate/nylon-6 bilayer structure are marketed by the company TEIJIN under the designation MORPHOTEX.
• compositions according to the invention can be in any form that is acceptable and usual for a cosmetic composition.
• compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or make-up of keratinous materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly for make-up of the lips, eyelashes and/or face.
• They can therefore be in the form of a product for care and/or make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp or nails; a sun-tan or self-tanning product; a hair-care product notably for dyeing, conditioning and/or care of the hair; they are advantageously in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, blusher, eye shadow, foundation.
• the invention further relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, notably the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and/or the eyelashes, comprising the application, on said materials, of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.
• the method according to the present invention notably provides care or make-up of the lips, by application of a composition of lipstick or of lip gloss according to the invention.
• the invention further relates to the use of a polycondensate and of a non-volatile oil, notably in the proportions and with the chemical constitution described previously, for the make-up of the lips in order to improve the durability of the gloss over time.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:
• the container can be of any suitable form. Notably it can be in the form of a pot, a box, or a case.
• the closing element can be in the form of a removable stopper, a cover, a lid, notably of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged on the body.
• the applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer, a pad, or a spatula.
• the applicator can be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a stem carried by the closing element, as described for example in U.S. Pat. No. 5,492,426.
• the applicator can be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.
• the closing element can be joined to the container by screwing.
• the closing element and the container are joined together otherwise than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, snap fitting, clamping, welding, gluing, or by magnetic attraction.
• “Snap fitting” means in particular any system involving the clearing of a ridge or collar of material by elastic deformation of one portion, notably of the closing element, then return to a position without elastic strain of said portion after the ridge or collar has been cleared.
• the container can be made at least partly of thermoplastic material.
• thermoplastic materials we may mention polypropylene or polyethylene.
• the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, notably of glass or of metal (or alloy).
• the container can have rigid walls or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a “scent-bottle” tube.
• the container can comprise means intended for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition.
• the container can be propelled by a piston mechanism.
• the container can comprise a mechanism, notably with a rack, or with a threaded rod, or with a helical groove, suitable for moving a stick towards said opening.
• a mechanism is described for example in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566.
• Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.
• the viscosity of the polymer at 80° C. or at 110° C. is measured using a cone-plate viscosimeter of the BROOKFIELD CAP 1000+ type.
• glycerol benzoic isophthalic isostearic acid Example E 20.7 8.5 15.9 54.9 at 25° C. glycerol terbutyl- acid isononanoic benzoic adipic
• Example F 25.5 2 13.7 58.8 at 25° C. diglycerol benzoic isophthalic isononanoic acid
• Example G 28 2 14 56 at 25° C. ditrimethylol- 1-naphthoic isophthalic isostearic propane acid
• a lipstick having the following composition was prepared:
• the procedure is entirely conventional: Melt phase B at 95-100° C. Then pulverize phase D in phase A. Next, add phase C to the molten phase B in a Rayneri, then add phase E after homogenization. The paste obtained is poured at 95° C. into a mould at 42° C. Cool the sticks to ⁇ 4° C. before removing them from the mould.

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