EP2240151A2 - Makeup beads and corresponding method of making up - Google Patents

Makeup beads and corresponding method of making up

Info

Publication number
EP2240151A2
EP2240151A2 EP08864413A EP08864413A EP2240151A2 EP 2240151 A2 EP2240151 A2 EP 2240151A2 EP 08864413 A EP08864413 A EP 08864413A EP 08864413 A EP08864413 A EP 08864413A EP 2240151 A2 EP2240151 A2 EP 2240151A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
particles
acid
compartments
mixing chamber
oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP08864413A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Claudia Barba
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2240151A2 publication Critical patent/EP2240151A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D33/00Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling powdery toiletry or cosmetic substances
    • A45D33/02Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling powdery toiletry or cosmetic substances with dispensing means, e.g. sprinkling means
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/0068Jars
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the present invention is aimed at proposing a new form of makeup for keratin materials, especially the skin and/or lips, which is appropriate to a personalized makeup.
  • the personalization of makeup is a topic which is attracting ever greater numbers of consumers. Said consumers require a makeup which on the one hand is specific to them and which on the other hand can be coordinated with their clothing or else modified as the mood takes them.
  • databases provide information on the ranges of makeup products that exist, and guide the user toward a specific product in regard of selection criteria of which she has also been informed. For example, by consulting a database of this type, the consumer may make a selection from a whole range of compounds in regard of her own specific features, such as the complexion of the skin, the color of the eyes, the color of the hair, the shape of the face, etc.
  • Patent US 5 971 351 provides the user with a lip makeup kit that combines a palette of makeup bases with a whole range of color pigments.
  • the provision of the lipstick specimen is not immediate. Indeed, it is first necessary for the user to melt the makeup base which she has chosen and to disperse the pigments she has selected, in parallel, into said base. The anticipated lipstick is obtained only after the above mixture has been cooled in a lipstick mold provided in the kit to that effect.
  • a specific object of the present invention is to provide a means which allows satisfaction to be given in these terms.
  • the present invention provides cosmetic particles, especially makeup particles, formed of at least one physiologically acceptable cosmetic base, said particles being characterizable in terms of hardness by a value ranging from 0.3 to 2 MPa and a size such that their greater dimension ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm.
  • the cosmetic particles according to the invention exhibit at least one performance benefit, such as, for example, non-transfer, hold over time and/or comfort.
  • the cosmetic particles according to the invention contain at least one material able to provide a color effect and/or optical effect.
  • this material may be one or more pigments, one or more fat-soluble or water-soluble colorants or else a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic particles according to the invention may exhibit at least one performance benefit, for example, of non-transfer, and are devoid of material able to provide a color effect and/or optical effect.
  • the present invention provides a method of making up a keratin material, more particularly a human keratin material, especially the skin and/or lips, comprising at least applying to said material a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least two types of cosmetic particles which are separate from one another, said particles being as defined above.
  • At least one of the types of particles exhibits a performance benefit as defined above.
  • At least one of the types of particles contains at least one material capable of providing a color effect and/or optical effect.
  • the makeup method employs the mixture of at least one first type of particles, exhibiting at least one performance benefit, of non-transfer, hold and/or comfort, with at least one second type of particles, containing at least one material able to provide a color effect and/or optical effect.
  • the mixing of the particles may be performed at ambient temperature.
  • the method of the invention may include a step of heating of the mixture.
  • a method of the invention may more particularly be dedicated to making up the lips.
  • the method of the invention may further comprise a step of mechanically extruding the mixture of at least two types of particles.
  • the present invention provides a device for the making up of keratin materials, more particularly the skin and/or lips, which comprises at least : two compartments, at least one of the compartments comprising particles of the invention, means of grinding said particles, and a mixing chamber separate from said two compartments, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said grinding means.
  • a device of this kind allows a mixture of two or more particles to be produced whose properties such as, on the one hand, the color and/or optical effect and, on the other hand, the performance benefits, for example, of non- transfer, may be readily evaluated even before the application of the corresponding makeup composition.
  • the device in accordance with the invention is advantageous insofar as it is compatible with the formation of small volumes of particle mixture. It also allows the properties of such a mixture to be readily rectified. Lastly, its small size allows it to be transported easily within a confined space, such as a pocket or handbag, for example.
  • the particles, method and device according to the invention are particularly advantageous in as much as they offer the user the possibility of adjusting the desired makeup performance at will, through the choice of the types of particles, while guaranteeing user-friendliness and simplicity of use.
  • the present invention also allows the user to be offered a greater range of makeup and, moreover, to endow the operation of making up with an attractive play aspect. Furthermore, the fact that the particles can be mixed at ambient temperature is of obvious interest from the standpoint of convenience, and thus provides satisfaction from the standpoint of simplicity of use.
  • the particles of the invention possess a size such that their greater dimension ranges from approximately 0.5 to 5 mm, and more particularly from 1 to 3 mm.
  • the particles of the invention exhibit an advantageously uniform and substantially spherical shape.
  • substantially spherical is meant that the particles are substantially isotropic in shape, in other words that they possess a relatively regular morphology.
  • the particles may take the form of beads.
  • the base forming the particles of the invention may form a homogeneous matrix.
  • a base according to the invention is formulated so as to be compatible with its conversion to the particle state.
  • all of the types of particles employed in a method according to the invention possess a similar texture.
  • the particles of the invention possess a solid state - that is a state which, at ambient temperature, is devoid of any ability to flow under the action of its own weight .
  • This solid state lends itself to the modeling of the particles to the required size and in the form, for example, of beads. Moreover, it prevents the risk of the particles agglomerating. Lastly, it allows a homogeneous mixture to be obtained from a plurality of particles, this mixture being advantageously obtainable at ambient temperature and being itself endowed with a solid state and therefore one which can easily be manipulated for application to a makeup substrate such as the skin and lips, for example.
  • This solid state may more particularly be characterized in terms of hardness.
  • the particles according to the invention are characterized in that they possess a hardness ranging from 0.3 to 2 MPa and in particular from 0.3 to 1 MPa, and more particularly of the order of 0.7 MPa.
  • This measurement of hardness is carried out using a TA Instrument texturometer in accordance with the following procedure .
  • the particles are formulated as a measurement sample. This is done by melting a pile of the formula intended for forming the particles in accordance with the present invention in a heating pan for an electrical melting pot. The setpoint temperature is adjusted to 98°C, and the composition is heated with magnetic stirring. When the mixture is molten and homogenized, it is left with stirring for 15 minutes. The composition is subsequently poured hot into hard silicone molds measuring 25 mm in diameter and 22 mm in height. The molds are left until the surface has set, this surface being leveled using a spatula. The composition is left at rest at 20 0 C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement is carried out.
  • the measurements are made in force/compression mode at a constant speed of 0.1 mm/s over a compression distance of 0.3 mm, with a stainless steel spindle 2 mm in diameter.
  • the particles suitable for the invention are formed from a cosmetic base which constitutes a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • a "physiologically acceptable medium” is a non-toxic medium which can be applied to the keratin materials of human beings, and more particularly the skin and/or lips.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which it is necessary to apply a composition obtained from the mixture of the particles of the invention and able to provide the hardness required according to the invention.
  • a base may comprise an aqueous phase and/or a fatty phase.
  • the cosmetic base forming the particles of the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
  • Said fatty phase may be formulated in the emulsion state, with the proviso that it is suitable for formulation in the state of particles.
  • the base may possess, for example, a continuous fatty phase, able to contain less than 10% by weight of water, more particularly less than 5% by weight of water, especially less than 3%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • the base forming the particles according to the invention is advantageously anhydrous - that is, it may contain less than 5%, in particular less than 3%, especially less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% of water, relative to its total weight. In that case it may be present more particularly in the form of oily gels, oily liquids, pastes or sticks. Accordingly a base in accordance with the invention may be in the form of a water-in-oil, oil-in-water, multiple or anhydrous emulsion.
  • the cosmetic base according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase, and more particularly at least one fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (20-25 0 C) and at atmospheric pressure and/or a fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty phase may further comprise lipophilic organic solvents.
  • a fatty phase may comprise an oily fatty phase, comprising one or more oils, and/or a solid fatty phase.
  • the particles of the invention may comprise at least one oil.
  • a fatty phase may, additionally, further comprise oils, and other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling and/or structuring agents.
  • oils suitable for the invention may be volatile or nonvolatile, silicone or non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof .
  • the oil or oils suitable for the preparation of particles of the invention may be selected from volatile or non-volatile oils as defined below, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-volatile oil is an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, more particularly of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • a "silicone oil” is an oil which contains at least one silicon atom, and more particularly at least one Si-O group.
  • hydrocarbon oil is an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • a “volatile oil” is an oil (or non-aqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating in contact with the skin in less than an hour at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • a volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having more particularly a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure of from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg) , more particularly of from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and even more particularly of from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and more particularly branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls® .
  • volatile oils it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicones, more particularly those having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) , and having more particularly 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile linear or cyclic silicones more particularly those having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) , and having more particularly 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Particles of the invention may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the non-volatile oils may more particularly be selected from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated where appropriate, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may be made more particularly of the following: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin; hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) , triglycerides composed of fatty acid-glycerol esters in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are, more particularly, heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, mac
  • the esters may more particularly be selected from the esters of fatty acid in particular, such as, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxyl-containing esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl oc
  • the non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in particles of the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendantly and/or at the end of a silicone chain, said groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and also phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, dipheny1dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyltrimethicones such as phenyltrimeth
  • the particles of the invention may for example comprise at least one glossy oil.
  • a glossy oil suitable for the invention may be selected from oils having a high molar mass of from 650 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • An oil suitable under this heading for the invention may have a molar mass of from 650 to 10 000 g/mol, and in particular from 750 to 7500 g/mol.
  • a glossy oil or mixture of glossy oils suitable for the invention may have a refractive index of from 1.46 to 1.56, and more particularly from 1.47 to 1.50.
  • the refractive index is measured at ambient temperature (25°C), using a refractometer .
  • the particles may, for example, comprise at least one oil in an amount ranging from approximately 2% to approximately 70% by weight, in particular ranging from approximately 5% to approximately 60% by weight, and more particularly ranging from approximately 10% to approximately 50% by weight of oil, relative to the total weight of a particle.
  • At least one non-volatile oil may be present in an amount ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 80% by weight, and in particular from 40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of a particle.
  • the base forming the particles may also comprise at least one solid fat compound selected from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes (preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600) or Fischer-Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins whose melting point is less than 40 0 C, such as EMW-0003, sold by Nippon Seirou, ⁇ -olefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies; ethylene-propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, and microcrystalline
  • waxes which have a melting temperature of from 60 to 110 0 C.
  • the particles according to the invention comprise at least one wax selected from polyethylene waxes, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • the base forming the particles may comprise at least 15% by weight of wax(es), in particular at least 17%, or even at least 19% by weight of wax(es) .
  • the base forming the particles may comprise less than 25% by weight of wax(es) .
  • the base constituting the particles according to the invention may advantageously also comprise at least one pasty fatty compound.
  • pasty in the sense of the present invention is meant a fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and which at a temperature of 23°C comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the term “pasty” likewise refers to polyvinyl laurate.
  • a pasty compound in the sense of the invention may have a hardness at 20 0 C of from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.
  • Particularly suitable as pasty compounds are polyol esters or polyesters in which the fatty acid ester units of the polyester comprise saturated or unsaturated chain lengths which are selected such that the compound has the characteristics required in accordance with the invention.
  • polyol esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are available commercially or may be prepared in a conventional way. They are generally of vegetable origin and may in particular be obtained by monoesterification or polyesterification of a polyol with a C2-C34 monocarboxylic acid such as, for example, a fatty acid, or with a dicarboxylic acid such as a diacid dimer.
  • the ester obtained may be, in particular, a polyester, a triester, a diester, a monoester or a mixture thereof.
  • the ester may be a mixture of two or more types of esters formed with different carboxylic acids.
  • esters may be obtained which have a relatively high molecular weight, from approximately 200 to 1300 g/mol.
  • a polyol dicarboxylate In the esterification reaction with a dicarboxylic acid, a polyol dicarboxylate may be obtained which has a weight- average molecular weight, as determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) , of from 200 to 20 000 g/mol, preferably between 2000 and 4000 g/mol.
  • GPC gel permeation chromatography
  • a "polyol” or “polyhydric alcohol” for the purposes of the present invention is to be understood as any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyhydric alcohols that are suitable advantageously for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those containing, in particular, 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and more particularly 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be selected, for example, from a diol dimer, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, 1,2,6- hexanetriol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) ethers and mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) ethers; and mixtures thereof.
  • a diol dimer glycerol
  • propylene glycol butylene glycol
  • pentylene glycol hexylene glycol
  • dipropylene glycol diethylene glycol
  • sorbitol hydroxypropyl sorbitol
  • 1,2,6- hexanetriol
  • the polyol may also be a "diol dimer", i.e. saturated diols produced by hydrogenating the corresponding diacid dimers .
  • a diol dimer may be produced by hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerizing an unsaturated fatty acid, more particularly a Cs to C3 4 fatty acid, such as those mentioned above, more particularly C 12 to C22, and especially C16 to C20, preferably Cis, such as, for example, oleic acid and linoleic acid.
  • a diacid dimer which is itself obtained by dimerizing an unsaturated fatty acid, more particularly a Cs to C3 4 fatty acid, such as those mentioned above, more particularly C 12 to C22, and especially C16 to C20, preferably Cis, such as, for example, oleic acid and linoleic acid.
  • the polyols that are more particularly suitable are sugars selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides, and trisaccharides .
  • Representatives of these sugars that may be mentioned include, in particular, the monosaccharides such as xylose, arabinose, galactose, fructose, mannose, glucose and mixtures thereof.
  • Representatives of disaccharide polyols that may be mentioned more particularly include maltose, lactose and sucrose and combinations thereof.
  • the monocarboxylic acid which can be used in the present invention may contain 2 to 34 carbon atoms, and more particularly 10 to 32 carbon atoms.
  • monocarboxylic acids suitable for the invention include more particularly: saturated linear acids such as butanoic acid, pentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid; branched fatty acids such as, for example, isobutanoic acid, isopentanoic acid, pivalic acid, isohexanoic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, dimethyloctanoic acid, isonona
  • saturated linear acids
  • Cs to C34 unsaturated linear fatty acids such as undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid; hydroxy acids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxy- pentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2- hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid
  • the compound is more particularly a fatty acid, especially as defined above.
  • the dicarboxylic acid which can be used according to the invention may contain at least two carboxyl groups per molecule .
  • n is an integer from 1 to 16, preferably from 3 to 16.
  • dicarboxylic acids which are suitable for the invention include, in particular, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,9- nonamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,10- decamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1, 11-undecamethylene- dicarboxylic acid, 1, 12-dodecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1, 13-tridecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,14- tetradecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1, 15-pentadecamethylene- dicarboxylic acid, 1, 16-hexadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dicarboxylic acid may also be a diacid dimer.
  • a diacid dimer denotes a diacid obtained by an intermolecular polymerization - more particularly dimerization - reaction of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, more particularly a Cs to C34 acid, such as those mentioned above, more particularly C12 to C22, especially C16 to C20, preferably Cis, of the type, for example, of oleic acid and linoleic acid.
  • polyol esters are the polyol polyesters in which the fatty acid ester units of the polyester comprise saturated or unsaturated chain lengths that are selected such that the compound possesses the behavior required in accordance with the invention.
  • the unsaturated fatty acid chains are typically branched chains and contain more particularly from 12 to approximately 22, and more particularly from approximately 18 to 22, carbon atoms .
  • the unsaturated fatty acid chains more particularly considered are mono- and/or di-unsaturated Cis fatty acids.
  • These long chains may be combined with shorter chains of saturated fatty acids. These chains are generally linear and contain 2 to approximately 12, preferably 6 to approximately 12, and more particularly 8 to 10, carbon atoms.
  • the degree of esterification of these fatty acid esters is such that approximately 60% of the hydroxyl functions of the polyols are esterified, and, more particularly, approximately 85%, or even 95%, of the hydroxyl functions .
  • ester units of fatty acids containing long unsaturated chains mention may be made more particularly of lauroleates, myristoleates, palmitoleates, oleates, elaidates, erucates, linoleates, linolenates, arachidonates, eicosapentaenoates, and docosahexaenoates .
  • lauroleates myristoleates, palmitoleates, oleates, elaidates, erucates, linoleates, linolenates, arachidonates, eicosapentaenoates, and docosahexaenoates .
  • the mono- and di-unsaturated fatty acid chains are preferred.
  • saturated long-chain unsaturated fatty acid ester units mention may be made more particularly of arachidate, behenate, linoserate, and serotate esters.
  • short chain saturated fatty acid ester units these are, more particularly, acetate, caproate, caprylate, caprate, and laurate.
  • the efficacy of the ester as a structuring agent for the liquid fatty phase intended to incorporate it is proportional to the amount of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids employed for preparing the solid polyol polyesters.
  • solid polyol fatty acid polyesters that are especially suitable for the invention, mention may be made more particularly of raffinose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties are linoleate and behenate, of maltose hectaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties derive from sunflower seed oil fatty acid and lignoserate, of sucrose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties are behenate and oleate, and of sucrose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties are laurates, linoleates, and behenates.
  • Solid fatty acid polyesters of this kind may be obtained by methods already described for the preparation of the polyol polyesters. In this respect, reference may be made in particular to the documents US 5 306 516, US 5 306 515, US 5 305 514, US 4 797 300, US 3 963 699, US 4 518 772, and US 4 517 360.
  • fractionated hydrogenated triglycerides and especially those sold by SIO; hydrogenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated palm oil, cocoa butter and, for example, those sold by Karlshamns, solid cottonseed oil, and for example that sold by SIO, and sucrose acetate isobutyrate, and for example that sold by Eastman Chemical.
  • Pasty compounds that may also be mentioned include lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, propoxylated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof .
  • silicone compounds such as the high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and especially those having pendent alkyl or alkoxy chains with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20-55 0 C, such as stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503® and DC25514®, and mixtures thereof .
  • PDMS high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes
  • stearyl dimethicones especially those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503® and DC25514®, and mixtures thereof .
  • particles of the invention may comprise a pasty compound in an amount sufficient to endow a composition obtained by mixing particles of the invention with at least one makeup performance benefit of comfort type.
  • This amount may vary from 2% to 20% by weight and is in particular from 4% to 15% by weight, expressed relative to the total weight of the base forming the particles.
  • particles according to the invention may also possess the capacity to form a makeup which is capable of not transferring, at least partly, in other words of not leaving any more than slight traces on certain substrates with which they may be brought into contact, and more particularly a glass, cup, cigarette, handkerchief, article of clothing or the skin.
  • the particles may comprise a volatile compound and/or a film former, optionally with a film-forming assistant, in an amount sufficient to provide at least one makeup performance benefit of non-transfer and/or holding power type.
  • volatile oils especially those as defined above .
  • the particles according to the invention may comprise at least one film former.
  • Film formers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention include synthetic polymers, of free-radical or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymers of free-radical type may be, more particularly, vinyl polymers or copolymers, especially acrylic polymers, and more particularly esters of (meth) acrylic acid such as alkyl (meth) acrylates, or vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl tert-butylbenzoate .
  • the film-forming polycondensates include polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, epoxy ester resins, and polyureas.
  • silicone resins which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, and which are polymers of crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes .
  • the nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described in terms of the different monomeric siloxane units it comprises, with each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing one type of unit.
  • polymethylsilsequioxane resins examples include those sold: by Wacker under the name Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS
  • Siloxysilicate resins include the trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the name SRlOOO by General Electric or under the name TMS 803 by Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, under the name KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu and DC 749 and DC 593 by Dow Corning.
  • TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate
  • silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above, with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the name Bio-PSA and described in document US 5 162 410, or else the silicone polymers obtained from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described earlier on above, and a diorganosiloxane, as are described in document WO 2004/073626.
  • silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5, 919, 441 , US-A-6, 051 , 216, and US-A- 5, 981, 680.
  • the particles may be dedicated to providing a performance benefit of comfort type, for example. Accordingly the presence of a pasty compound, especially as defined above, may be advantageous for providing precisely this quality of comfort.
  • the particles may advantageously provide a glossy or - conversely - matting character.
  • the particles may, for example, comprise one or more glossy oils, especially as defined above .
  • the matting property may be brought about through the presence of fillers and/or compounds which absorb sebum, as defined below, for example.
  • the color effects and/or optical effects are provided by particles which are different from those that are intended for providing the target performance benefit.
  • An optical effect is an effect which can be observed with the naked eye. This optical effect may be a coloring effect, but may also be a variation in color as a function of observation angle, the diffraction of light, the inhomogeneity of the appearance of the mixture, a volumizing effect, a gloss effect or else matt effect, this list not being limitative.
  • particles may contain at least one colorant.
  • the colorant or colorants may be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and lakes, nacreous pigments, composite pigments, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, reflecting particles, nacres, and mixtures thereof.
  • the particles may include at least one pigment or filler, more particularly a filler, which may be selected, for example, from talc and/or starch powders and mixtures thereof .
  • the particles may comprise at least one goniochromatic colorant, selected for example from the group consisting of multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colorants.
  • the particles may comprise at least one diffractive pigment.
  • particles may comprise colored or reflecting particles which are visible to the naked eye, for example, flakes or fibers.
  • particles may, for example, comprise reflecting particles, nacres or coated metal particles, in accordance, for example with the formulation or intended use of the mixture.
  • a "goniochromatic colorant” in the sense of the present invention is a colorant which, when the composition is spread on a substrate, produces a color path within the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space that corresponds to a change Dh in the hue angle h of at least 20° when the observation angle is varied, relative to the normal, between 0° and 80°, for an incidence angle of the light of 45°.
  • the color path may be measured, for example, by means of an Instrument Systems GON 360 goniometer, after the second composition has been spread in fluid form with a thickness of 300 ⁇ m, using an automatic spreader, onto an Erichsen 24/5 contrast chart, the measurement being taken on the black background of the chart.
  • a goniochromatic colorant in the sense of the present invention produces an observed color change, also called "color flop", as a function of the observation angle.
  • the goniochromatic colorant may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colorants .
  • a multilayer structure may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being produced, for example, from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3 , Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2 , cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.
  • the multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a central layer, a symmetry in terms of the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Different effects are obtained according to the thickness and nature of the various layers.
  • symmetrical multilayer interference structures which can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Fe2 ⁇ 3/Si ⁇ 2/Fe2 ⁇ 3/Si ⁇ 2/Fe2 ⁇ 3, a pigment having this structure being sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF; MoS 2 /Si0 2 /mica- oxide/SiO 2 /MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /mica-oxide/SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 ;
  • TiO 2 /SiO 2 /TiO 2 and TiO 2 /Al 2 O 3 /TiO 2 pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by Merck (Darmstadt) .
  • the liquid-crystal colorants comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers on which mesomorphic groups are grafted.
  • Liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles which can be used include, for example, those sold by Chenix, and also those sold under the name Helicone® HC by Wacker.
  • a goniochromatic colorant it is also possible to use certain nacres, effect pigments on a synthetic substrate, especially a substrate of alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum type, or holographic interference flakes obtained from a polyterephthalate film.
  • the material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers.
  • Such fibers may have a length of less than 80 ⁇ m, for example .
  • a "diffractive pigment” in the sense of the present invention is a pigment capable of producing a changing color according to the observation angle when it is illuminated with white light, on account of the presence of a structure that diffracts light.
  • a diffractive pigment may comprise a diffraction grating, capable for example of diffracting an incident ray of monochromatic light in defined directions.
  • the diffraction grating may comprise a periodic unit, more particularly a line, the distance between two adjacent units being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.
  • the diffraction grating When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light, and produce a rainbow effect.
  • the diffractive pigment may be produced with units having different profiles, especially triangular, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical profiles, in gaps, of constant or nonconstant width, or sinusoidal profiles.
  • the spatial frequency of the grating and the depth of the units will be selected as a function of the degree of separation of the various orders desired.
  • the frequency may range, for example, between 500 and 3000 lines per mm.
  • the particles of the diffractive pigment preferably each have a flattened form, and more particularly are in platelet form.
  • a single particle of pigment may comprise two perpendicular or nonperpendicular, crossed diffraction gratings.
  • the diffractive pigment may have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material covered at least on one side by a layer of a dielectric material.
  • the latter material may give the diffractive pigment better rigidity and durability.
  • the dielectric material may in that case be selected, for example, from the following materials: MgF2, SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , AlF 3 , CeF 3 , LaF 3 , NdF 3 , SmF 2 , BaF 2 , CaF 2 , LiF, and combinations thereof.
  • the reflective material may be selected, for example, from metals and their alloys, and also from nonmetallic reflective materials.
  • the metals which can be used include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr and their materials, combinations or alloys.
  • a reflective material of this kind may constitute by itself the diffractive pigment, which in that case will be a single- layer pigment.
  • the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer on at least one side, or even entirely encapsulating the core.
  • a layer of a dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer or layers.
  • the dielectric material used is in this case preferably inorganic, and may be selected, for example, from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides, and combinations thereof.
  • the dielectric material may be in crystalline, semicrystalline or amorphous state.
  • the dielectric material may be selected, for example, from the following materials: MgF 2 , SiO, SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , TiO 2 , WO, AlN, BN, B 4 C, WC, TiC, TiN, N 4 Si 3 , ZnS, glass particles, carbons of diamond type, and combinations thereof.
  • the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed ceramic or dielectric material, such as a natural leaflet mineral, such as peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic leaflets formed from glass, alumina, SiO 2 , carbon, an iron oxide/mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.
  • a natural leaflet mineral such as peroskovite mica or talc
  • synthetic leaflets formed from glass, alumina, SiO 2 , carbon, an iron oxide/mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.
  • Such materials may comprise silicone, metal suicides, semiconducting materials formed from elements of groups III, IV, and V, metals having a cubic-centered crystalline structure, cermet compositions or materials, semiconducting glasses, and their various combinations.
  • the diffractive pigment used may more particularly be selected from those described in the US patent application US 2003/0031870, published February 13, 2003.
  • One diffractive pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure: MgF2/Al/MgF2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being sold under the name Spectraflair 1400 Pigment Silver by Flex Products, or Spectraflair 1400 Pigment Silver FG.
  • the proportion by weight of the MgF 2 may be between 80% and 95% of the total weight of the pigment.
  • Reflective particles in the sense of the present invention are particles whose size, structure, more particularly the thickness of the layer or layers which make up the structure, and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, enable them to reflect incident light.
  • the intensity of this reflection may possibly be sufficient to create bright spots or sparkling dots, visible to the naked eye, on the surface of the composition or mixture when the latter is applied to the substrate to be made up, these spots or dots having a greater luminosity and contrasting with their environment by appearing to shine.
  • the reflective particles may be selected in such a way as not significantly to impair the coloration effect generated by the colorants with which they are combined, and more particularly in such a way as to optimize this effect in terms of color yield. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.
  • These particles may take various forms, and may more particularly be in the form of platelets or globules, especially spherical globules.
  • the reflective particles may have a multilayer or nonmultilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, more particularly of a reflective material .
  • the reflective particles may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium oxides or iron oxides that are obtained by synthesis.
  • the reflective particles may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate at least partly coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallic material.
  • the substrate may be a single-substance, multisubstance, organic and/or inorganic substrate.
  • glasses More particularly it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limitative.
  • the reflective material may contain a layer of metal or of a metallic material. Glass particles covered with a metallic layer are described more particularly in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A- 10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 , and JP-A-05017710.
  • reflective pigments which comprise an inorganic substrate coated with a metal layer
  • Particles featuring a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine Ref SX 2025 PS by Toyal .
  • Particles featuring a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by the same company.
  • the reflective particles may also be selected from particles featuring a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metallic material, more particularly a metal oxide, selected, for example, from titanium oxides, especially Ti ⁇ 2, iron oxides, especially Fe 2 O 3 , tin oxides, chromium oxides, barium sulfate, and the following materials: MgF 2 , CrF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , SeO 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , MoS 2 , and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • a metal oxide selected, for example, from titanium oxides, especially Ti ⁇ 2, iron oxides, especially Fe 2 O 3 , tin oxides, chromium oxides, barium sulfate, and the following materials: MgF 2 , CrF 3 , ZnS, Z
  • Such particles include, for example, the particles which comprise a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or the glass particles coated alternatively with brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, tin oxide or a mixture thereof, as sold under the brand name Reflecks® by Engelhard.
  • the reflective particles may be goniochromatic or non- goniochromatic and/or interference or noninterference particles .
  • nacre is meant colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially those produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, which exhibit a color effect via optical interference .
  • the nacres may be selected from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, more particularly of the aforementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacre in question may also comprise mica particles whose surface is superposed with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • the nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.
  • colorant inorganic pigments, organic pigments or lakes, nacreous pigments, composite pigments, and fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes.
  • the inorganic pigments may be white or colored and may be coated or uncoated. They include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxides or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue.
  • the pigments may represent from 0% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 35%, more preferably from 2% to 25%, of the total weight of the composition .
  • the nacreous pigments may be selected from white nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may represent from 0% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15%, when present.
  • the fat-soluble dyes are, for example, vegetable extracts, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinolene yellow .
  • the water-soluble dyes are selected, for example, from vegetable extracts, especially beetroot juice, and methylene blue .
  • the colorant may comprise at least one organic colorant, such as at least one organic pigment and/or at least one organic lake, for example.
  • the organic colorant may be selected, for example, from particulate materials which are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.
  • the organic colorant may comprise, for example, organic pigments or lakes, which may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinolene, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes, organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, and titanium salts, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, and fluoran dyes, it being possible for these dyes to contain at least one sulfonic or carboxylic acid group.
  • organic pigments or lakes which may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinolene
  • the organic pigments include, more particularly, those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No.
  • the organic colorant may comprise an organic lake supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example .
  • the organic lakes include, in particular, those known by the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lame, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No.
  • the colorant may comprise a composite pigment.
  • a further aim of the present invention is to provide a device which produces makeup which can be personalized, on the basis of mixtures of particles in accordance with the invention.
  • the present invention in another of its aspects, provides a device useful for the making up of keratin material, comprising at least: two compartments, at least one of said two compartments comprising particles in accordance with the invention, means of grinding said particles, and a mixing chamber separate from said two compartments, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said grinding means.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide a device that allows small volumes of particle mixture to be prepared.
  • a further objective of the present invention is to provide a device that allows the properties of the resulting particle mixture to be easily adjusted.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide a portable device which can easily be transported in a pocket or handbag.
  • the device provided according to the invention thus proves advantageous for the storing and mixing of cosmetic particles, especially makeup particles.
  • Said two compartments may also, respectively, each contain one type of cosmetic particles, each type of particles being separate from the other and being in accordance with the invention .
  • the device may therefore have as many compartments as there are types of particles, and these compartments are appropriate for allowing individual withdrawal of the particles that they contain, for the purpose of disposing them in said mixing chamber.
  • the mixing chamber itself is separate from said compartments and has an aperture configured to allow grinding means to be introduced.
  • a device of this kind therefore allows the user to create her own mixture of cosmetic particles, and in particular to visualize the proportions of particles to be ground, to observe the result of mixing the particles, and, where appropriate, to adjust the properties of this mixture until the desired mixture is obtained.
  • Said two particle compartments may be secured to one another.
  • Said mixing chamber may be secured to said two particle compartments .
  • a device according to the invention may internally allow the mixing of said particles, in particular in a mixing chamber.
  • a device of the invention may comprise means for selectively connecting the compartments with the mixing chamber.
  • a device of the invention may be set up such that each compartment contains an orifice made through a distribution wall, said orifices being capable of being selectively blocked either by the mixing chamber or by a shutter mounted slidably or pivotably relative to said orifice.
  • a device of the invention may also be set up such that the mixing chamber is mounted rotatably relative to the compartments .
  • a device of the invention may comprise compartments comprising a base which is inclined relative to a plane of rest of the case, such that the particles are able to fall by gravity into the mixing chamber .
  • Said grinding means of a device of the invention may further comprise product application means, configured for applying the composition obtained by mixing the particles to a bodily surface.
  • product application means may be selected from a brush applicator, an applicator with a flock coating, a coarse brush, a foam applicator or an applicator made of a substantially rigid material, exhibiting a convex or planar form.
  • Said mixing chamber and said particle compartments may be arranged in a case comprising means of accommodation for said grinding means .
  • Said grinding means may be accommodated vertically or horizontally in the case.
  • Said grinding means may further comprise product withdrawal means .
  • the device may comprise a pestle having an end which forms said grinding means and an opposite end which forms means of applying the composition obtained from the grinding of the particles.
  • a device of the invention may further comprise withdrawal means .
  • the withdrawal means may comprise a recess made in said pestle between said grinding means and said means of applying the composition.
  • figure 1 is a diagrammatic perspective view of one embodiment of a case according to the invention
  • figure 2 is a diagrammatic view in longitudinal section of one embodiment of a case according to the invention
  • figure 3 is a diagrammatic perspective view of another embodiment of a case according to the invention
  • figure 4 is an enlarged view of a portion IX of the case shown in figure 3
  • figure 5 is a diagrammatic perspective view of a variant embodiment of the case portion shown in figure 4.
  • compartments 10, 11, 12, 13 comprise a cylindrical surface 100, 110, 120, 130, respectively, and a distribution wall 103, 113, 123, 133, respectively, opposite said cylindrical surface.
  • This cylindrical surface 100, 110, 120, 130 and this distribution wall 103, 113, 123, 133 may be joined to one another via side faces 101, 102; 111, 112; 121, 122; 131, 132, respectively.
  • the different product compartments are isolated from one another.
  • the distribution walls 103, 113, 123, 133 may have a curved configuration. These distribution walls may each comprise an orifice 104, 114, 124, 134, respectively, made right through. These walls have a free edge 1030, 1130, 1230, 1330.
  • the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 may be made from said free edges 1030, 1130, 1230, 1330 or at a distance from these free edges. They may have a longitudinal section of any appropriate shape, such as square, rectangular, trapezoidal, circular or other.
  • Such orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 may be arranged equiangularly from the cylindrical axis X. For example, an angle of 45° may separate two adjacent orifices. Depending on the number of product compartments present, this angle may be greater or lesser.
  • the base 16 (figure 2) is intended to rest on a rest surface.
  • the base has a truncated part 160 and a basin 161.
  • the truncated part 160 has an inner face which may as such define the base of the product compartments.
  • the basin 161 is to be brought to bear on the rest surface.
  • the basin thus defines a plane of rest Pr of the container 17.
  • this plane of rest extends tangentially to said basin 161.
  • This basin may extend in the cylindrical axis X.
  • the truncated part 160 may define a plane Y which is inclined relative to the plane of rest of the container.
  • the plane Y may define, with the plane of rest of the container, an angle CC which is less than 90°, preferably between 5 and 45° and more preferably between 10 and 30° .
  • the case further comprises a mixing chamber 14. This mixing chamber is separate from the product compartments.
  • the mixing chamber 14 may be formed by a dish whose general shape is hemispherical. Alternatively this chamber may have any appropriate cylindrical configurations.
  • This mixing chamber 14 is delimited by a base 143 and a free edge 140, defining an opening.
  • the mixing chamber 14 may have a cross section whose size is greater than or equal to all of the other cross sections made at the level of the mixing chamber.
  • a slot 141 may be made through the free edge 140 of the mixing chamber. This slot 141 may also be provided at a distance from the free edge 140. Such a slot may have a form which is identical to, similar to or different from that of the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 of the different product compartments .
  • this mixing chamber may also have an outer shoulder or discontinuity 144. This outer discontinuity may be provided between the base 143 and the free edge 140.
  • the mixing chamber may be provided so as to be removable. In other words, this chamber may be combined with the case 1 and then, optionally, detached, in order to be cleaned, for example .
  • the mixing chamber may be accommodated in the container 17.
  • this mixing chamber may be accommodated in the basin 161.
  • the outer discontinuity 144 of the mixing chamber may abut the truncated part 160 of the base of the container.
  • the base 143 of the mixing chamber may optionally abut the basin 161 of the base of the container.
  • the product compartments may extend laterally relative to the mixing chamber.
  • the product compartments 10, 11, 12, 13 may be arranged around the mixing chamber 14.
  • the mixing chamber 14 may occupy a central position relative to the product compartments 10, 11, 12, 13. This chamber may extend in the cylindrical axis X.
  • the free edge 140 of the mixing chamber may be set back from the free edges 1030, 1130, 1230, 1330 of the distribution walls. This free edge 140 might also be flush with said free edges of the distribution walls, 103, 113, 123, 133 or project relative to these free edges.
  • the base of the product compartments may be inclined in the direction of the mixing chamber.
  • the base of the product compartments may define a slope which descends toward the mixing chamber.
  • the mixing chamber may be mounted rotatably in the container. Accordingly this mixing chamber can be moved in rotation relative to the product compartments 10, 11, 12, 13. This chamber may be turned about 360° or less.
  • the mixing chamber may comprise handling means.
  • These handling means may comprise a projection which extends from the free edge 140. This projection may project beyond the distribution walls 103, 113, 123, 133.
  • This case comprises means of selectively connecting said mixing chamber with said product compartments.
  • the mixing chamber may be moved between a position in which it masks the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 and a position of release of at least one of said orifices 104, 114, 124, 134.
  • the slot 141 allows said mixing chamber to be connected selectively with said product compartments.
  • the mixing chamber 14 blocks the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 of the distribution walls of the product compartments.
  • the slot 141 is not opposite any of the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134.
  • the compartments 10, 11, 12, 13 can be filled with products.
  • the slot 141 moves to at least partly, and preferably completely, opposite at least one of said orifices 104, 114, 124, 134, in order to connect said corresponding product compartment with the mixing chamber.
  • the free edge 140 of the mixing chamber defines an access opening which is configured to allow the introduction of these mixing means 30.
  • this opening is directly accessible from the outside by the user, such that mixing means can be brought into said mixing chamber when the cover 2 is in the open position.
  • the opening of this mixing chamber may have any appropriate form, such as a circular form. It may have a diameter of between 0.5 and 4 cm.
  • the application means may comprise a surface with a bulb or dome shape. This bulb might indeed also serve for the grinding and mixing of the cosmetic products disposed in the mixing chamber.
  • the mixing means may take the form of a spatula. Accordingly, the mixing means may be provided at an opposite end from the application means and withdrawal means. In this case, the application means and the withdrawal means may extend on two opposing faces of said spatula. In other words, the application means may be provided on the back of the withdrawal means. In this example, these application means are formed by a substantially planar surface. It should be noted that the user could also use the end of the spatula, which forms mixing means, as application means.
  • the mixing chamber When the mixing chamber is turned relative to the product compartments into a position in which one of said orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 is released, the product contained in the corresponding compartment is able to flow by gravity into the mixing chamber 14. This flow may result from the inclination defined by the base of the product compartment. Such a flow might also be obtained by slightly inclining the container in the direction of an elevation of the product compartment whose opening is released relative to the mixing chamber.
  • the user uses the mixing means to mix, crush or grind the products and to obtain a substantially homogeneous mixture.
  • These mixing means are independent of the case and, in particular, of the mixing chamber. The user thus brings these mixing means from the outside to the inside of the mixing chamber 14, and exerts pressure in the direction of the base 143 of said mixing chamber. These mixing means outside the case then ensure effective mixing of the products. This mixing operation is carried out cold.
  • the mixing of said product with the other products advantageously gives rise to the formation of a pasty mixture of products to be applied.
  • the mixing chamber 14 has a free edge 140 with a cross section whose dimensions are greater than or equal to those of all of the other cross sections made within the mixing chamber allows the mixing means to make contact with all of the inner walls of the mixing chamber, without any difficulty. This feature produces high visibility of the interior of the mixing chamber, and ensures homogeneous mixing of the products.
  • the advantage of a case of this kind is that the user is able to tip the precise amount of products required into the mixing chamber 14.
  • the user is able, extemporaneously, to produce a mixture of cosmetic products which is original and can be personalized, having a particular color and/or particular texture.
  • the user is able to have a direct view of the mixture of products produced. Such a view makes it possible, in particular, for the properties of the mixture of products to be easily adjusted, by a modification of the amounts of respective products in said mixing chamber 14.
  • Figure 3 shows another embodiment of a case. Only the differences of this embodiment relative to the embodiment described with reference to figures 1 and 2 will be set out in the remainder of this description. For the sake of clarity, only the product compartment 10 of the container has been shown in detail. However, the statements made in the description of this product compartment 10 will also be applicable to the other product compartments.
  • the case 1 may have a general parallelepipedal form.
  • This embodiment shows a case without a mixing chamber connected.
  • the mixing chamber may be formed directly by the container, and more particularly by the basin 161.
  • Figure 4 shows more particularly another embodiment of the means for selectively connecting the mixing chamber with said product compartments.
  • This figure shows a shutter 106 which can be moved between an open position and a position closing the orifice 141 in the distribution wall 103.
  • This shutter 106 may be mounted so as to be moveable by translation or slidable relative to the orifice 104.
  • the shutter 106 may have a body which has a lower end that carries opposing side fins 107. This body may also comprise an upper element which is provided with a protuberance 108 intended to make it easier to grip the shutter 106.
  • the distribution wall 103 of the product compartment may have a guide groove 109 on either side of the orifice 104.
  • the lateral fins 107 are able to engage in these grooves in order to facilitate the moving of the shutter.
  • the distribution wall 103 may comprise means 1031 capable of limiting the displacement travel of the shutter 106. Such means may form stops which define the maximum dimension of the orifice 104.
  • These limiting means 1031 may comprise two projections extending opposite one another, on either side of the orifice 104. Such projections may protrude into said orifice 104.
  • Figure 5 shows another embodiment of means for selectively connecting the mixing chamber with said product compartments.
  • the shutter 106 is mounted in such a way as to be pivotable over the distribution wall 103.
  • the shutter 106 may be articulated by means of an added shaft 1032. As shown, such a shaft may be disposed on a single edge of the orifice 104.
  • a compression spring 5 may be provided in order to create resistance to the movement of the shutter 106. Such a spring may also automatically return the shutter from an open position to a closed position.
  • the shutter might be articulated by means of a flexible hinge.
  • this added shaft might be attached on either side of the orifice 104.
  • this added shaft might be provided on the free edge 1030 of the distribution wall. In that case, the added shaft spans said opening 104.
  • a device of the invention may comprise grinding means on a first end of a pestle.
  • a pestle advantageously has a convex end adapted to match the shape of the mixing chamber.
  • Withdrawal means may also be provided. These withdrawal means allow the particles to be retrieved from one compartment of given particles, and deposited in the mixing chamber.
  • a device of the invention may comprise a means for housing the application means, withdrawal means and/or grinding means.
  • This housing means may comprise a housing made inside the device of the invention.
  • the particles of the invention may be obtained by the methods which are conventionally used in cosmetology.
  • the makeup is prepared by combining particles formed of at least one makeup base and particles additionally possessing at least one material able to provide an optical effect and/or color effect, using a device of the invention.
  • the particles of the invention are obtained by methods which are conventionally used in cosmetology.
  • the mixture of the starting materials is heated in an electrical melting pot at 90-100 0 C with magnetic stirring.
  • the mixture is withdrawn using a closed plastic pipette.
  • the pipette is subsequently contacted with a sheet of aluminum paper, and is raised, allowing a drop of product to run out, which sets immediately.
  • Spherical particles of uniform size with a diameter of approximately 2 to 3 mm, are obtained in this way.
  • the particles are prepared in accordance with the protocol described in example 1.
  • a makeup composition is prepared by mixing the above two types of particles at ambient temperature by means of a device as described in figures 1 to 5.

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Abstract

The present invention is aimed at providing a new form of makeup for keratin materials, especially the skin and/or lips, which is appropriate to a personalized makeup, and relates to cosmetic particles formed of at least one physiologically acceptable cosmetic base and possessing a hardness ranging from 0.3 to 2 MPas and a size such that their greater dimension ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm. The invention likewise relates to a method of making up that comprises applying a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application, of at least two types of cosmetic particles of the invention that are separate from one another.

Description

Makeup beads and corresponding method of making up
The present invention is aimed at proposing a new form of makeup for keratin materials, especially the skin and/or lips, which is appropriate to a personalized makeup.
The personalization of makeup is a topic which is attracting ever greater numbers of consumers. Said consumers require a makeup which on the one hand is specific to them and which on the other hand can be coordinated with their clothing or else modified as the mood takes them.
Moreover, it is clear that this personalization of the makeup must not be acquired at the expense of the performance benefits of the makeup: that is, hold, comfort, and satisfactory properties of non-transfer and/or of coverage, and moreover, of simplicity of application.
With this desire for personalization as manifested by consumers, the companies that distribute cosmetic products have developed databases, in a paper version or, most often, in an electronic version. These databases provide information on the ranges of makeup products that exist, and guide the user toward a specific product in regard of selection criteria of which she has also been informed. For example, by consulting a database of this type, the consumer may make a selection from a whole range of compounds in regard of her own specific features, such as the complexion of the skin, the color of the eyes, the color of the hair, the shape of the face, etc.
Nevertheless, this alternative does not always allow the consumer to have a specific makeup product whose makeup effect and/or performance benefits can be modified at will. Moreover, the need to consult a database tends to complicate the makeup, which runs counter to the further-expressed requirements of ease of availability, rapidity and user- friendliness .
Patent US 5 971 351 provides the user with a lip makeup kit that combines a palette of makeup bases with a whole range of color pigments. In this case, however, the provision of the lipstick specimen is not immediate. Indeed, it is first necessary for the user to melt the makeup base which she has chosen and to disperse the pigments she has selected, in parallel, into said base. The anticipated lipstick is obtained only after the above mixture has been cooled in a lipstick mold provided in the kit to that effect.
Presently proposed in parallel are devices for packaging and distributing at least two, or even more, cosmetic compositions that are appropriate for the mixing of these compositions in proportions which can be modified directly by the consumer. This option allows her to adjust the color effect and/or optical effect that she more particularly desires and which is therefore personal to her. A device of this kind is described more particularly in document EP 1 656 853.
To the knowledge of the inventors, however, consumers do not presently have means available that allow them to adjust the desired performance benefit or benefits on demand and in conjunction with that of the color effect and/or optical effect that are simple and quick to implement.
A specific object of the present invention is to provide a means which allows satisfaction to be given in these terms.
Accordingly, in accordance with a first aspect, the present invention provides cosmetic particles, especially makeup particles, formed of at least one physiologically acceptable cosmetic base, said particles being characterizable in terms of hardness by a value ranging from 0.3 to 2 MPa and a size such that their greater dimension ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm.
According to one variant the cosmetic particles according to the invention exhibit at least one performance benefit, such as, for example, non-transfer, hold over time and/or comfort.
According to one variant the cosmetic particles according to the invention contain at least one material able to provide a color effect and/or optical effect.
For example, this material may be one or more pigments, one or more fat-soluble or water-soluble colorants or else a mixture thereof.
According to one particular variant the cosmetic particles according to the invention may exhibit at least one performance benefit, for example, of non-transfer, and are devoid of material able to provide a color effect and/or optical effect.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention provides a method of making up a keratin material, more particularly a human keratin material, especially the skin and/or lips, comprising at least applying to said material a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least two types of cosmetic particles which are separate from one another, said particles being as defined above.
According to a first variant, at least one of the types of particles exhibits a performance benefit as defined above.
According to another variant, at least one of the types of particles contains at least one material capable of providing a color effect and/or optical effect. According to a preferred variant, the makeup method employs the mixture of at least one first type of particles, exhibiting at least one performance benefit, of non-transfer, hold and/or comfort, with at least one second type of particles, containing at least one material able to provide a color effect and/or optical effect.
More particularly the two types of particles possess a different composition.
Advantageously the mixing of the particles may be performed at ambient temperature.
However, if necessary, the method of the invention may include a step of heating of the mixture.
A method of the invention may more particularly be dedicated to making up the lips.
According to another embodiment the method of the invention may further comprise a step of mechanically extruding the mixture of at least two types of particles.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention provides a device for the making up of keratin materials, more particularly the skin and/or lips, which comprises at least : two compartments, at least one of the compartments comprising particles of the invention, means of grinding said particles, and a mixing chamber separate from said two compartments, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said grinding means. Advantageously a device of this kind allows a mixture of two or more particles to be produced whose properties such as, on the one hand, the color and/or optical effect and, on the other hand, the performance benefits, for example, of non- transfer, may be readily evaluated even before the application of the corresponding makeup composition.
Moreover, the device in accordance with the invention is advantageous insofar as it is compatible with the formation of small volumes of particle mixture. It also allows the properties of such a mixture to be readily rectified. Lastly, its small size allows it to be transported easily within a confined space, such as a pocket or handbag, for example.
Accordingly, the particles, method and device according to the invention are particularly advantageous in as much as they offer the user the possibility of adjusting the desired makeup performance at will, through the choice of the types of particles, while guaranteeing user-friendliness and simplicity of use.
The present invention also allows the user to be offered a greater range of makeup and, moreover, to endow the operation of making up with an attractive play aspect. Furthermore, the fact that the particles can be mixed at ambient temperature is of obvious interest from the standpoint of convenience, and thus provides satisfaction from the standpoint of simplicity of use.
COSMETIC PARTICLES Particle size
As specified above, the particles of the invention possess a size such that their greater dimension ranges from approximately 0.5 to 5 mm, and more particularly from 1 to 3 mm. The particles of the invention exhibit an advantageously uniform and substantially spherical shape.
By "substantially spherical" is meant that the particles are substantially isotropic in shape, in other words that they possess a relatively regular morphology.
For example, the particles may take the form of beads.
Particle texture
The base forming the particles of the invention may form a homogeneous matrix.
A base according to the invention is formulated so as to be compatible with its conversion to the particle state.
According to one embodiment all of the types of particles employed in a method according to the invention possess a similar texture.
Generally speaking, the particles of the invention possess a solid state - that is a state which, at ambient temperature, is devoid of any ability to flow under the action of its own weight .
This solid state lends itself to the modeling of the particles to the required size and in the form, for example, of beads. Moreover, it prevents the risk of the particles agglomerating. Lastly, it allows a homogeneous mixture to be obtained from a plurality of particles, this mixture being advantageously obtainable at ambient temperature and being itself endowed with a solid state and therefore one which can easily be manipulated for application to a makeup substrate such as the skin and lips, for example. This solid state may more particularly be characterized in terms of hardness.
Characterization of the particles in terms of hardness
As specified above, the particles according to the invention are characterized in that they possess a hardness ranging from 0.3 to 2 MPa and in particular from 0.3 to 1 MPa, and more particularly of the order of 0.7 MPa.
This measurement of hardness is carried out using a TA Instrument texturometer in accordance with the following procedure .
To begin with, the particles are formulated as a measurement sample. This is done by melting a pile of the formula intended for forming the particles in accordance with the present invention in a heating pan for an electrical melting pot. The setpoint temperature is adjusted to 98°C, and the composition is heated with magnetic stirring. When the mixture is molten and homogenized, it is left with stirring for 15 minutes. The composition is subsequently poured hot into hard silicone molds measuring 25 mm in diameter and 22 mm in height. The molds are left until the surface has set, this surface being leveled using a spatula. The composition is left at rest at 200C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement is carried out.
The measurements are made in force/compression mode at a constant speed of 0.1 mm/s over a compression distance of 0.3 mm, with a stainless steel spindle 2 mm in diameter.
Particle composition
As specified above, the particles suitable for the invention are formed from a cosmetic base which constitutes a physiologically acceptable medium. A "physiologically acceptable medium" is a non-toxic medium which can be applied to the keratin materials of human beings, and more particularly the skin and/or lips. In terms of composition, the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which it is necessary to apply a composition obtained from the mixture of the particles of the invention and able to provide the hardness required according to the invention.
A base may comprise an aqueous phase and/or a fatty phase.
According to one particular embodiment the cosmetic base forming the particles of the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
Said fatty phase may be formulated in the emulsion state, with the proviso that it is suitable for formulation in the state of particles.
In particular the base may possess, for example, a continuous fatty phase, able to contain less than 10% by weight of water, more particularly less than 5% by weight of water, especially less than 3%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition .
The base forming the particles according to the invention is advantageously anhydrous - that is, it may contain less than 5%, in particular less than 3%, especially less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% of water, relative to its total weight. In that case it may be present more particularly in the form of oily gels, oily liquids, pastes or sticks. Accordingly a base in accordance with the invention may be in the form of a water-in-oil, oil-in-water, multiple or anhydrous emulsion.
Fatty phase
The cosmetic base according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase, and more particularly at least one fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (20-250C) and at atmospheric pressure and/or a fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. The fatty phase may further comprise lipophilic organic solvents.
A fatty phase may comprise an oily fatty phase, comprising one or more oils, and/or a solid fatty phase.
The particles of the invention may comprise at least one oil.
A fatty phase may, additionally, further comprise oils, and other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling and/or structuring agents.
The oils suitable for the invention may be volatile or nonvolatile, silicone or non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof .
The oil or oils suitable for the preparation of particles of the invention may be selected from volatile or non-volatile oils as defined below, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention a "non-volatile oil" is an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, more particularly of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention a "silicone oil" is an oil which contains at least one silicon atom, and more particularly at least one Si-O group.
A "hydrocarbon oil" is an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
For the purposes of the present invention a "volatile oil" is an oil (or non-aqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating in contact with the skin in less than an hour at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. A volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having more particularly a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure of from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mmHg) , more particularly of from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and even more particularly of from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and more particularly branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls® .
As volatile oils it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicones, more particularly those having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8 x 10~6 m2/s) , and having more particularly 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
It is also possible to use volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
It is possible to use a mixture of the aforementioned oils.
Particles of the invention may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
The non-volatile oils may more particularly be selected from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated where appropriate, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made more particularly of the following: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin; hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) , triglycerides composed of fatty acid-glycerol esters in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are, more particularly, heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or else the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, and, in particular, hydrogenated polyisobutene; synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, more particularly a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is > 10.
The esters may more particularly be selected from the esters of fatty acid in particular, such as, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxyl-containing esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 4-diheptanoate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12 to Ci5 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxyl-containing esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraiso-stearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, which are sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and are described in patent application FR 0 302 809, filed on 6 March, 2003, the content of which being incorporated herein by reference; fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain, having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol ; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof; and dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis.
The non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in particles of the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendantly and/or at the end of a silicone chain, said groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and also phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, dipheny1dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
The particles of the invention may for example comprise at least one glossy oil.
A glossy oil suitable for the invention may be selected from oils having a high molar mass of from 650 to 10 000 g/mol. An oil suitable under this heading for the invention may have a molar mass of from 650 to 10 000 g/mol, and in particular from 750 to 7500 g/mol.
An oil with a molar mass of from 650 to 10 000 g/mol that can be used in a composition of the invention may be selected from: lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (of molar mass or MM = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MM = 1340 g/mol), Indopol H-1500 (MM = 2160 g/mol), sold or produced by Amoco; hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E, sold or produced by Amoco (M = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000, sold or produced by Synteal (MM = 6000 g/mol) , Rewopal PIB 1000, sold or produced by Witco (MM = 1000 g/mol); polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MM = 723 g/mol), Puresyn 150 (MM = 9200 g/mol), sold or produced by Mobil Chemicals; and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as: the vinyl- pyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216, sold or produced by ISP (MM = 7300 g/mol) ; esters such as: esters of linear fatty acids having 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelarogonate (MM = 697.05 g/mol) ; hydroxyl-containing esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MM = 965.58 g/mol), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MM = 757.19 g/mol) ;
C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters such as those described in application EP-A-O 955 039, and more particularly triisoarachidyl citrate (MM = 1033.75 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MM = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891.51 g/mol), glyceryl 2- tridecyltetradecanoate (MM = 1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MM = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MM = 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyltetradecanoate (MM = 1538.66 g/mol); esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 2 851 915, filed 6 March 2003, the content of which being incorporated by reference in the instant application; silicone oils such as the phenyl silicones, for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MM = 9000 g/mol) ; oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol); and mixtures thereof.
A glossy oil or mixture of glossy oils suitable for the invention may have a refractive index of from 1.46 to 1.56, and more particularly from 1.47 to 1.50. The refractive index is measured at ambient temperature (25°C), using a refractometer .
It is possible to select an oily phase as described in patent application EP-A-792 637, the content of which being herein incorporated by reference.
The particles may, for example, comprise at least one oil in an amount ranging from approximately 2% to approximately 70% by weight, in particular ranging from approximately 5% to approximately 60% by weight, and more particularly ranging from approximately 10% to approximately 50% by weight of oil, relative to the total weight of a particle.
At least one non-volatile oil may be present in an amount ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 80% by weight, and in particular from 40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of a particle.
The base forming the particles may also comprise at least one solid fat compound selected from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. As representative of the waxes, mention may be made more particularly of beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes (preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600) or Fischer-Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins whose melting point is less than 400C, such as EMW-0003, sold by Nippon Seirou, α-olefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies; ethylene-propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, and microcrystalline waxes whose melting point is greater than 85°C, such as Hi-Mic® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080, sold by Nippon Seirou, and mixtures thereof .
Especially suitable for the invention are the waxes which have a melting temperature of from 60 to 1100C.
According to one preferred embodiment the particles according to the invention comprise at least one wax selected from polyethylene waxes, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
The base forming the particles may comprise at least 15% by weight of wax(es), in particular at least 17%, or even at least 19% by weight of wax(es) .
The base forming the particles may comprise less than 25% by weight of wax(es) .
The base constituting the particles according to the invention may advantageously also comprise at least one pasty fatty compound. By "pasty" in the sense of the present invention is meant a fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and which at a temperature of 23°C comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The term "pasty" likewise refers to polyvinyl laurate.
A pasty compound in the sense of the invention may have a hardness at 200C of from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.
Particularly suitable as pasty compounds are polyol esters or polyesters in which the fatty acid ester units of the polyester comprise saturated or unsaturated chain lengths which are selected such that the compound has the characteristics required in accordance with the invention.
The polyol esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are available commercially or may be prepared in a conventional way. They are generally of vegetable origin and may in particular be obtained by monoesterification or polyesterification of a polyol with a C2-C34 monocarboxylic acid such as, for example, a fatty acid, or with a dicarboxylic acid such as a diacid dimer.
The ester obtained may be, in particular, a polyester, a triester, a diester, a monoester or a mixture thereof. In the present case the ester may be a mixture of two or more types of esters formed with different carboxylic acids.
In the case of esterification with a monocarboxylic acid, esters may be obtained which have a relatively high molecular weight, from approximately 200 to 1300 g/mol.
In the esterification reaction with a dicarboxylic acid, a polyol dicarboxylate may be obtained which has a weight- average molecular weight, as determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) , of from 200 to 20 000 g/mol, preferably between 2000 and 4000 g/mol.
A "polyol" or "polyhydric alcohol" for the purposes of the present invention is to be understood as any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.
The polyhydric alcohols that are suitable advantageously for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those containing, in particular, 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and more particularly 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the polyol may be selected, for example, from a diol dimer, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, 1,2,6- hexanetriol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (Ci-C4) ethers and mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol alkyl (Ci-C4) ethers; and mixtures thereof.
The polyol may also be a "diol dimer", i.e. saturated diols produced by hydrogenating the corresponding diacid dimers .
A diol dimer may be produced by hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerizing an unsaturated fatty acid, more particularly a Cs to C34 fatty acid, such as those mentioned above, more particularly C12 to C22, and especially C16 to C20, preferably Cis, such as, for example, oleic acid and linoleic acid.
The polyols that are more particularly suitable are sugars selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides, and trisaccharides . Representatives of these sugars that may be mentioned include, in particular, the monosaccharides such as xylose, arabinose, galactose, fructose, mannose, glucose and mixtures thereof. Representatives of disaccharide polyols that may be mentioned more particularly include maltose, lactose and sucrose and combinations thereof.
The monocarboxylic acid which can be used in the present invention may contain 2 to 34 carbon atoms, and more particularly 10 to 32 carbon atoms.
Illustrative examples of monocarboxylic acids suitable for the invention include more particularly: saturated linear acids such as butanoic acid, pentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid; branched fatty acids such as, for example, isobutanoic acid, isopentanoic acid, pivalic acid, isohexanoic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, dimethyloctanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isoundecanoic acid, isododecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isotetradecanoic acid, isopentadecanoic acid, isohexadecanoic acid, isoheptadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, isononadecanoic acid, isoeicosanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2- butyloctanoic acid, 2-hexyldecanoic acid, 2-octyldodecanoic acid, 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, 2-dodecylhexadecanoic acid, 2-tetradecyloctadecanoic acid, 2-hexadecyloctadecanoic acid, and long-chain fatty acids obtained starting from lanolin;
Cs to C34 unsaturated linear fatty acids, such as undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid; hydroxy acids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxy- pentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2- hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyeicosanoic acid, 2-hydroxydocosanoic acid, and 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid; cyclic acids such as cyclohexanoic acid, hydrogenated rosin, rosin, abietic acid, hydrogenated abietic acid, benzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, p-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, p-methoxycinnamic acid, salicylic acid, gallic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, and nicotinic acid; and fatty acids of natural origin, such as the fatty acids of orange oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil, olive oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, castor oil, wheatgerm oil, saffron oil, cottonseed oil, and mink oil, and mixtures thereof.
The compound is more particularly a fatty acid, especially as defined above.
The dicarboxylic acid which can be used according to the invention may contain at least two carboxyl groups per molecule .
It may more particularly be represented by the following formula :
HOOC- (CH2) n-COOH
in which n is an integer from 1 to 16, preferably from 3 to 16.
Illustrative, non-limitative, examples of dicarboxylic acids which are suitable for the invention include, in particular, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,9- nonamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,10- decamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1, 11-undecamethylene- dicarboxylic acid, 1, 12-dodecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1, 13-tridecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,14- tetradecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1, 15-pentadecamethylene- dicarboxylic acid, 1, 16-hexadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The dicarboxylic acid may also be a diacid dimer. A diacid dimer denotes a diacid obtained by an intermolecular polymerization - more particularly dimerization - reaction of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, more particularly a Cs to C34 acid, such as those mentioned above, more particularly C12 to C22, especially C16 to C20, preferably Cis, of the type, for example, of oleic acid and linoleic acid.
Also especially suitable as polyol esters are the polyol polyesters in which the fatty acid ester units of the polyester comprise saturated or unsaturated chain lengths that are selected such that the compound possesses the behavior required in accordance with the invention.
The unsaturated fatty acid chains are typically branched chains and contain more particularly from 12 to approximately 22, and more particularly from approximately 18 to 22, carbon atoms .
The unsaturated fatty acid chains more particularly considered are mono- and/or di-unsaturated Cis fatty acids.
These long chains may be combined with shorter chains of saturated fatty acids. These chains are generally linear and contain 2 to approximately 12, preferably 6 to approximately 12, and more particularly 8 to 10, carbon atoms.
Generally speaking, the degree of esterification of these fatty acid esters is such that approximately 60% of the hydroxyl functions of the polyols are esterified, and, more particularly, approximately 85%, or even 95%, of the hydroxyl functions .
With regard to the ester units of fatty acids containing long unsaturated chains, mention may be made more particularly of lauroleates, myristoleates, palmitoleates, oleates, elaidates, erucates, linoleates, linolenates, arachidonates, eicosapentaenoates, and docosahexaenoates . For reasons of oxidation stability, the mono- and di-unsaturated fatty acid chains are preferred.
With regard to the saturated long-chain unsaturated fatty acid ester units, mention may be made more particularly of arachidate, behenate, linoserate, and serotate esters.
With regard to the short chain saturated fatty acid ester units, these are, more particularly, acetate, caproate, caprylate, caprate, and laurate.
The selection and proportion of these chains are of course adjusted so as to obtain a substance which is solid in accordance with the present invention.
Generally speaking, the efficacy of the ester as a structuring agent for the liquid fatty phase intended to incorporate it is proportional to the amount of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids employed for preparing the solid polyol polyesters.
As solid polyol fatty acid polyesters that are especially suitable for the invention, mention may be made more particularly of raffinose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties are linoleate and behenate, of maltose hectaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties derive from sunflower seed oil fatty acid and lignoserate, of sucrose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties are behenate and oleate, and of sucrose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid moieties are laurates, linoleates, and behenates.
Solid fatty acid polyesters of this kind may be obtained by methods already described for the preparation of the polyol polyesters. In this respect, reference may be made in particular to the documents US 5 306 516, US 5 306 515, US 5 305 514, US 4 797 300, US 3 963 699, US 4 518 772, and US 4 517 360.
As a pasty compound suitable advantageously for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of fractionated hydrogenated triglycerides, and especially those sold by SIO; hydrogenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated palm oil, cocoa butter and, for example, those sold by Karlshamns, solid cottonseed oil, and for example that sold by SIO, and sucrose acetate isobutyrate, and for example that sold by Eastman Chemical.
Pasty compounds that may also be mentioned include lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, propoxylated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof .
Mention may also be made of pasty silicone compounds such as the high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and especially those having pendent alkyl or alkoxy chains with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20-550C, such as stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503® and DC25514®, and mixtures thereof .
The aforementioned pasty compounds may be used alone or in a mixture . In one embodiment, particles of the invention may comprise a pasty compound in an amount sufficient to endow a composition obtained by mixing particles of the invention with at least one makeup performance benefit of comfort type.
This amount may vary from 2% to 20% by weight and is in particular from 4% to 15% by weight, expressed relative to the total weight of the base forming the particles.
As specified above, particles according to the invention may also possess the capacity to form a makeup which is capable of not transferring, at least partly, in other words of not leaving any more than slight traces on certain substrates with which they may be brought into contact, and more particularly a glass, cup, cigarette, handkerchief, article of clothing or the skin.
Accordingly, in one embodiment, the particles may comprise a volatile compound and/or a film former, optionally with a film-forming assistant, in an amount sufficient to provide at least one makeup performance benefit of non-transfer and/or holding power type.
As a volatile compound suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the volatile oils, especially those as defined above .
The particles according to the invention may comprise at least one film former.
Film formers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention include synthetic polymers, of free-radical or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
The film-forming polymers of free-radical type may be, more particularly, vinyl polymers or copolymers, especially acrylic polymers, and more particularly esters of (meth) acrylic acid such as alkyl (meth) acrylates, or vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl tert-butylbenzoate .
The film-forming polycondensates include polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, epoxy ester resins, and polyureas.
Mention may also be made of silicone resins, which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, and which are polymers of crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes . The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described in terms of the different monomeric siloxane units it comprises, with each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing one type of unit.
Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsequioxane resins include those sold: by Wacker under the name Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS
MK, and by Shin-Etsu under the KR-220L names.
Siloxysilicate resins include the trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the name SRlOOO by General Electric or under the name TMS 803 by Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, under the name KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu and DC 749 and DC 593 by Dow Corning.
Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers, such as those mentioned above, with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the name Bio-PSA and described in document US 5 162 410, or else the silicone polymers obtained from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described earlier on above, and a diorganosiloxane, as are described in document WO 2004/073626.
It is also possible to use the silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5, 919, 441 , US-A-6, 051 , 216, and US-A- 5, 981, 680.
In another particular embodiment the particles may be dedicated to providing a performance benefit of comfort type, for example. Accordingly the presence of a pasty compound, especially as defined above, may be advantageous for providing precisely this quality of comfort.
Likewise, the particles may advantageously provide a glossy or - conversely - matting character.
In the first alternative the particles may, for example, comprise one or more glossy oils, especially as defined above .
In the second alternative, the matting property may be brought about through the presence of fillers and/or compounds which absorb sebum, as defined below, for example.
The manifestation of these performance benefits is not incompatible with the conjoint manifestation of an optical effect and/or color effect as generally provided by pigments and/or colorants.
To provide the consumer with greater liberty in the personalization of her makeup, it is preferable for the color effects and/or optical effects to be provided by particles which are different from those that are intended for providing the target performance benefit. An optical effect is an effect which can be observed with the naked eye. This optical effect may be a coloring effect, but may also be a variation in color as a function of observation angle, the diffraction of light, the inhomogeneity of the appearance of the mixture, a volumizing effect, a gloss effect or else matt effect, this list not being limitative.
Accordingly, particles may contain at least one colorant. The colorant or colorants may be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and lakes, nacreous pigments, composite pigments, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, reflecting particles, nacres, and mixtures thereof.
Where the optical effect is the covering power or matt effect, the particles may include at least one pigment or filler, more particularly a filler, which may be selected, for example, from talc and/or starch powders and mixtures thereof .
Where the optical effect is the variation of the color as a function of the observation angle, the particles may comprise at least one goniochromatic colorant, selected for example from the group consisting of multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colorants.
Where the optical effect is the diffraction of light, the particles may comprise at least one diffractive pigment.
Where the optical effect is the inhomogeneity of the appearance of the makeup, particles may comprise colored or reflecting particles which are visible to the naked eye, for example, flakes or fibers.
Where the optical effect is brightness or sparkle, particles may, for example, comprise reflecting particles, nacres or coated metal particles, in accordance, for example with the formulation or intended use of the mixture.
A "goniochromatic colorant" in the sense of the present invention is a colorant which, when the composition is spread on a substrate, produces a color path within the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space that corresponds to a change Dh in the hue angle h of at least 20° when the observation angle is varied, relative to the normal, between 0° and 80°, for an incidence angle of the light of 45°.
The color path may be measured, for example, by means of an Instrument Systems GON 360 goniometer, after the second composition has been spread in fluid form with a thickness of 300 μm, using an automatic spreader, onto an Erichsen 24/5 contrast chart, the measurement being taken on the black background of the chart.
A goniochromatic colorant in the sense of the present invention produces an observed color change, also called "color flop", as a function of the observation angle.
The goniochromatic colorant may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colorants .
A multilayer structure may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being produced, for example, from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.
The multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a central layer, a symmetry in terms of the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Different effects are obtained according to the thickness and nature of the various layers.
Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures which can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Fe2θ3/Siθ2/Fe2θ3/Siθ2/Fe2θ3, a pigment having this structure being sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF; MoS2/Si02/mica- oxide/SiO2/MoS2; Fe2O3/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/Fe2O3;
TiO2/SiO2/TiO2 and TiO2/Al2O3/TiO2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by Merck (Darmstadt) .
The liquid-crystal colorants comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers on which mesomorphic groups are grafted.
Liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles which can be used include, for example, those sold by Chenix, and also those sold under the name Helicone® HC by Wacker.
As a goniochromatic colorant it is also possible to use certain nacres, effect pigments on a synthetic substrate, especially a substrate of alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum type, or holographic interference flakes obtained from a polyterephthalate film.
The material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers may have a length of less than 80 μm, for example .
The greater the relative proportion of second composition in the mixture, the more intense the variation in color as a function of the observation angle.
A "diffractive pigment" in the sense of the present invention is a pigment capable of producing a changing color according to the observation angle when it is illuminated with white light, on account of the presence of a structure that diffracts light.
A diffractive pigment may comprise a diffraction grating, capable for example of diffracting an incident ray of monochromatic light in defined directions.
The diffraction grating may comprise a periodic unit, more particularly a line, the distance between two adjacent units being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.
When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light, and produce a rainbow effect.
Concerning the structure of diffractive pigments, reference may usefully be made to the article "Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects" by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference Proceedings 2002.
The diffractive pigment may be produced with units having different profiles, especially triangular, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical profiles, in gaps, of constant or nonconstant width, or sinusoidal profiles.
The spatial frequency of the grating and the depth of the units will be selected as a function of the degree of separation of the various orders desired. The frequency may range, for example, between 500 and 3000 lines per mm.
The particles of the diffractive pigment preferably each have a flattened form, and more particularly are in platelet form.
A single particle of pigment may comprise two perpendicular or nonperpendicular, crossed diffraction gratings. The diffractive pigment may have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material covered at least on one side by a layer of a dielectric material. The latter material may give the diffractive pigment better rigidity and durability. The dielectric material may in that case be selected, for example, from the following materials: MgF2, SiO2, Al2O3, AlF3, CeF3, LaF3, NdF3, SmF2, BaF2, CaF2, LiF, and combinations thereof. The reflective material may be selected, for example, from metals and their alloys, and also from nonmetallic reflective materials. The metals which can be used include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr and their materials, combinations or alloys. A reflective material of this kind may constitute by itself the diffractive pigment, which in that case will be a single- layer pigment.
As a variant, the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer on at least one side, or even entirely encapsulating the core. A layer of a dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer or layers. The dielectric material used is in this case preferably inorganic, and may be selected, for example, from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides, and combinations thereof. The dielectric material may be in crystalline, semicrystalline or amorphous state. In this configuration the dielectric material may be selected, for example, from the following materials: MgF2, SiO, SiO2, Al2O3, TiO2, WO, AlN, BN, B4C, WC, TiC, TiN, N4Si3, ZnS, glass particles, carbons of diamond type, and combinations thereof.
As a variant, the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed ceramic or dielectric material, such as a natural leaflet mineral, such as peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic leaflets formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, an iron oxide/mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.
In place of a layer of a dielectric material, other materials that improve the mechanical properties may be suitable. Such materials may comprise silicone, metal suicides, semiconducting materials formed from elements of groups III, IV, and V, metals having a cubic-centered crystalline structure, cermet compositions or materials, semiconducting glasses, and their various combinations.
The diffractive pigment used may more particularly be selected from those described in the US patent application US 2003/0031870, published February 13, 2003.
One diffractive pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure: MgF2/Al/MgF2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being sold under the name Spectraflair 1400 Pigment Silver by Flex Products, or Spectraflair 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of the MgF2 may be between 80% and 95% of the total weight of the pigment.
"Reflective particles" in the sense of the present invention are particles whose size, structure, more particularly the thickness of the layer or layers which make up the structure, and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, enable them to reflect incident light. The intensity of this reflection may possibly be sufficient to create bright spots or sparkling dots, visible to the naked eye, on the surface of the composition or mixture when the latter is applied to the substrate to be made up, these spots or dots having a greater luminosity and contrasting with their environment by appearing to shine.
The reflective particles may be selected in such a way as not significantly to impair the coloration effect generated by the colorants with which they are combined, and more particularly in such a way as to optimize this effect in terms of color yield. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.
These particles may take various forms, and may more particularly be in the form of platelets or globules, especially spherical globules.
Irrespective of their form, the reflective particles may have a multilayer or nonmultilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, more particularly of a reflective material .
When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium oxides or iron oxides that are obtained by synthesis.
When the reflective particles do have a multilayer structure, they may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate at least partly coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be a single-substance, multisubstance, organic and/or inorganic substrate.
More particularly it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limitative.
The reflective material may contain a layer of metal or of a metallic material. Glass particles covered with a metallic layer are described more particularly in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A- 10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 , and JP-A-05017710.
Still as examples of reflective pigments which comprise an inorganic substrate coated with a metal layer, mention may also be made of particles which comprise a silver-coated borosilicate substrate and are also called "white nacres".
Particles featuring a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine Ref SX 2025 PS by Toyal . Particles featuring a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by the same company.
Irrespective of their shape, the reflective particles may also be selected from particles featuring a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metallic material, more particularly a metal oxide, selected, for example, from titanium oxides, especially Tiθ2, iron oxides, especially Fe2O3, tin oxides, chromium oxides, barium sulfate, and the following materials: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
Examples of such particles include, for example, the particles which comprise a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or the glass particles coated alternatively with brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, tin oxide or a mixture thereof, as sold under the brand name Reflecks® by Engelhard.
The reflective particles may be goniochromatic or non- goniochromatic and/or interference or noninterference particles . By "nacre" is meant colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially those produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, which exhibit a color effect via optical interference .
The nacres may be selected from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, more particularly of the aforementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The nacre in question may also comprise mica particles whose surface is superposed with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
The nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.
Illustrative examples of nacres which can be employed in the context of the present invention include, in particular, the gold-colored nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (timica) , Gold 222C (cloisonne), Sparkle gold (timica) , Gold 4504 (chromalite) , and Monarch gold 233X (cloisonne) ; the bronze nacres especially sold by Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (colorona) and Bronze (17353) (colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (cloisonne) ; the orange nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (cloisonne) and Orange MCR 1010 (cosmica) and by Merck under the name Passion orange (colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (microna) ; the brown-colored nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (cloisonne) and Brown CL4509
(chromalite) ; the copper-glint nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (timica); the red-glint nacres especially sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine
(17386) (colorona); the yellow-glint nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (chromalite; the gold-glint red-colored nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (gemtone) ; the pink nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (gemtone) ; the gold-glint black nacres especially sold by Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (timica) , the blue nacres especially sold by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (microna) , the silver-glint white nacres especially sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the golden-green pinky-orange nacres especially sold by Merck under the name Indian summer (xirona), and mixtures thereof.
By "colorant" is meant inorganic pigments, organic pigments or lakes, nacreous pigments, composite pigments, and fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes.
The inorganic pigments may be white or colored and may be coated or uncoated. They include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxides or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. The pigments may represent from 0% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 35%, more preferably from 2% to 25%, of the total weight of the composition .
The nacreous pigments may be selected from white nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may represent from 0% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15%, when present.
The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, vegetable extracts, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soya oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinolene yellow .
The water-soluble dyes are selected, for example, from vegetable extracts, especially beetroot juice, and methylene blue .
The colorant may comprise at least one organic colorant, such as at least one organic pigment and/or at least one organic lake, for example.
The organic colorant may be selected, for example, from particulate materials which are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.
The organic colorant may comprise, for example, organic pigments or lakes, which may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinolene, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes, organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, and titanium salts, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, and fluoran dyes, it being possible for these dyes to contain at least one sulfonic or carboxylic acid group.
The organic pigments include, more particularly, those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6. The organic colorant may comprise an organic lake supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example .
The organic lakes include, in particular, those known by the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lame, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lame D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No.
4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow No.
5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake.
The chemical materials corresponding to each of the aforementioned organic colorants are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, the content of which being incorporated herein by reference.
The colorant may comprise a composite pigment.
DEVICE FOR APPLYING THE PARTICLES
A further aim of the present invention, according to another of its aspect, is to provide a device which produces makeup which can be personalized, on the basis of mixtures of particles in accordance with the invention.
Accordingly the present invention, in another of its aspects, provides a device useful for the making up of keratin material, comprising at least: two compartments, at least one of said two compartments comprising particles in accordance with the invention, means of grinding said particles, and a mixing chamber separate from said two compartments, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said grinding means.
Another objective of the present invention is to provide a device that allows small volumes of particle mixture to be prepared.
A further objective of the present invention is to provide a device that allows the properties of the resulting particle mixture to be easily adjusted.
Another objective of the present invention is to provide a portable device which can easily be transported in a pocket or handbag. The device provided according to the invention thus proves advantageous for the storing and mixing of cosmetic particles, especially makeup particles.
Said two compartments may also, respectively, each contain one type of cosmetic particles, each type of particles being separate from the other and being in accordance with the invention .
The device may therefore have as many compartments as there are types of particles, and these compartments are appropriate for allowing individual withdrawal of the particles that they contain, for the purpose of disposing them in said mixing chamber. The mixing chamber itself is separate from said compartments and has an aperture configured to allow grinding means to be introduced.
A device of this kind therefore allows the user to create her own mixture of cosmetic particles, and in particular to visualize the proportions of particles to be ground, to observe the result of mixing the particles, and, where appropriate, to adjust the properties of this mixture until the desired mixture is obtained.
Said two particle compartments may be secured to one another. Said mixing chamber may be secured to said two particle compartments .
A device according to the invention may internally allow the mixing of said particles, in particular in a mixing chamber.
A device of the invention may comprise means for selectively connecting the compartments with the mixing chamber.
A device of the invention may be set up such that each compartment contains an orifice made through a distribution wall, said orifices being capable of being selectively blocked either by the mixing chamber or by a shutter mounted slidably or pivotably relative to said orifice.
A device of the invention may also be set up such that the mixing chamber is mounted rotatably relative to the compartments .
According to one embodiment, a device of the invention may comprise compartments comprising a base which is inclined relative to a plane of rest of the case, such that the particles are able to fall by gravity into the mixing chamber .
Said grinding means of a device of the invention may further comprise product application means, configured for applying the composition obtained by mixing the particles to a bodily surface. These application means may be selected from a brush applicator, an applicator with a flock coating, a coarse brush, a foam applicator or an applicator made of a substantially rigid material, exhibiting a convex or planar form.
Said mixing chamber and said particle compartments may be arranged in a case comprising means of accommodation for said grinding means .
Said grinding means may be accommodated vertically or horizontally in the case.
Said grinding means may further comprise product withdrawal means .
For example, the device may comprise a pestle having an end which forms said grinding means and an opposite end which forms means of applying the composition obtained from the grinding of the particles. A device of the invention may further comprise withdrawal means .
The withdrawal means may comprise a recess made in said pestle between said grinding means and said means of applying the composition.
The invention will be appreciated more on a reading of the detailed description which follows, which is given by reference to the accompanying drawings illustrating one, nonlimitative embodiment of said invention, and in which: figure 1 is a diagrammatic perspective view of one embodiment of a case according to the invention, figure 2 is a diagrammatic view in longitudinal section of one embodiment of a case according to the invention, figure 3 is a diagrammatic perspective view of another embodiment of a case according to the invention, figure 4 is an enlarged view of a portion IX of the case shown in figure 3, and figure 5 is a diagrammatic perspective view of a variant embodiment of the case portion shown in figure 4.
In a device example shown more particularly in figure 1, compartments 10, 11, 12, 13 comprise a cylindrical surface 100, 110, 120, 130, respectively, and a distribution wall 103, 113, 123, 133, respectively, opposite said cylindrical surface. This cylindrical surface 100, 110, 120, 130 and this distribution wall 103, 113, 123, 133 may be joined to one another via side faces 101, 102; 111, 112; 121, 122; 131, 132, respectively. Hence the different product compartments are isolated from one another.
Each cylindrical surface 100, 110, 120, 130, distribution wall 103, 113, 123, 133, and side face 101, 102; 111, 112; 121, 112; 131, 132, respectively, define a respective opening 105, 115, 125, 135 through which a respective product, more particularly a cosmetic product, may be delivered. The distribution walls 103, 113, 123, 133 may have a curved configuration. These distribution walls may each comprise an orifice 104, 114, 124, 134, respectively, made right through. These walls have a free edge 1030, 1130, 1230, 1330. The orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 may be made from said free edges 1030, 1130, 1230, 1330 or at a distance from these free edges. They may have a longitudinal section of any appropriate shape, such as square, rectangular, trapezoidal, circular or other.
Such orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 may be arranged equiangularly from the cylindrical axis X. For example, an angle of 45° may separate two adjacent orifices. Depending on the number of product compartments present, this angle may be greater or lesser.
The base 16 (figure 2) is intended to rest on a rest surface. In this example, the base has a truncated part 160 and a basin 161.
The truncated part 160 has an inner face which may as such define the base of the product compartments.
The basin 161 is to be brought to bear on the rest surface. The basin thus defines a plane of rest Pr of the container 17. In this example this plane of rest extends tangentially to said basin 161. This basin may extend in the cylindrical axis X.
As is visible in figure 2, the truncated part 160 may define a plane Y which is inclined relative to the plane of rest of the container. The plane Y may define, with the plane of rest of the container, an angle CC which is less than 90°, preferably between 5 and 45° and more preferably between 10 and 30° . The case further comprises a mixing chamber 14. This mixing chamber is separate from the product compartments.
The mixing chamber 14 may be formed by a dish whose general shape is hemispherical. Alternatively this chamber may have any appropriate cylindrical configurations.
This mixing chamber 14 is delimited by a base 143 and a free edge 140, defining an opening.
At the free edge 141, the mixing chamber 14 may have a cross section whose size is greater than or equal to all of the other cross sections made at the level of the mixing chamber.
A slot 141 may be made through the free edge 140 of the mixing chamber. This slot 141 may also be provided at a distance from the free edge 140. Such a slot may have a form which is identical to, similar to or different from that of the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 of the different product compartments .
Furthermore, this mixing chamber may also have an outer shoulder or discontinuity 144. This outer discontinuity may be provided between the base 143 and the free edge 140.
The mixing chamber may be provided so as to be removable. In other words, this chamber may be combined with the case 1 and then, optionally, detached, in order to be cleaned, for example .
The mixing chamber may be accommodated in the container 17. In particular, this mixing chamber may be accommodated in the basin 161.
In the assembly position of the mixing chamber in the container, the outer discontinuity 144 of the mixing chamber may abut the truncated part 160 of the base of the container. The base 143 of the mixing chamber may optionally abut the basin 161 of the base of the container.
The product compartments may extend laterally relative to the mixing chamber. The product compartments 10, 11, 12, 13 may be arranged around the mixing chamber 14. In other words, the mixing chamber 14 may occupy a central position relative to the product compartments 10, 11, 12, 13. This chamber may extend in the cylindrical axis X.
In the embodiment shown, the free edge 140 of the mixing chamber may be set back from the free edges 1030, 1130, 1230, 1330 of the distribution walls. This free edge 140 might also be flush with said free edges of the distribution walls, 103, 113, 123, 133 or project relative to these free edges.
As can be seen in figure 2, the base of the product compartments may be inclined in the direction of the mixing chamber. In other words, the base of the product compartments may define a slope which descends toward the mixing chamber.
The mixing chamber may be mounted rotatably in the container. Accordingly this mixing chamber can be moved in rotation relative to the product compartments 10, 11, 12, 13. This chamber may be turned about 360° or less.
In order to facilitate the movement of the mixing chamber relative to the product compartments, the mixing chamber may comprise handling means. These handling means may comprise a projection which extends from the free edge 140. This projection may project beyond the distribution walls 103, 113, 123, 133.
This case comprises means of selectively connecting said mixing chamber with said product compartments. In this example, the mixing chamber may be moved between a position in which it masks the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 and a position of release of at least one of said orifices 104, 114, 124, 134. The slot 141 allows said mixing chamber to be connected selectively with said product compartments.
As shown in figure 1, in the masking position, the mixing chamber 14 blocks the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 of the distribution walls of the product compartments. In such a case, the slot 141 is not opposite any of the orifices 104, 114, 124, 134. In a position of this kind, the compartments 10, 11, 12, 13 can be filled with products.
In the release position, the slot 141 moves to at least partly, and preferably completely, opposite at least one of said orifices 104, 114, 124, 134, in order to connect said corresponding product compartment with the mixing chamber.
The free edge 140 of the mixing chamber defines an access opening which is configured to allow the introduction of these mixing means 30. In other words, this opening is directly accessible from the outside by the user, such that mixing means can be brought into said mixing chamber when the cover 2 is in the open position.
The opening of this mixing chamber may have any appropriate form, such as a circular form. It may have a diameter of between 0.5 and 4 cm.
The application means may comprise a surface with a bulb or dome shape. This bulb might indeed also serve for the grinding and mixing of the cosmetic products disposed in the mixing chamber.
The mixing means may take the form of a spatula. Accordingly, the mixing means may be provided at an opposite end from the application means and withdrawal means. In this case, the application means and the withdrawal means may extend on two opposing faces of said spatula. In other words, the application means may be provided on the back of the withdrawal means. In this example, these application means are formed by a substantially planar surface. It should be noted that the user could also use the end of the spatula, which forms mixing means, as application means.
When the mixing chamber is turned relative to the product compartments into a position in which one of said orifices 104, 114, 124, 134 is released, the product contained in the corresponding compartment is able to flow by gravity into the mixing chamber 14. This flow may result from the inclination defined by the base of the product compartment. Such a flow might also be obtained by slightly inclining the container in the direction of an elevation of the product compartment whose opening is released relative to the mixing chamber.
When the products have been collected in the mixing chamber 14, the user uses the mixing means to mix, crush or grind the products and to obtain a substantially homogeneous mixture. These mixing means are independent of the case and, in particular, of the mixing chamber. The user thus brings these mixing means from the outside to the inside of the mixing chamber 14, and exerts pressure in the direction of the base 143 of said mixing chamber. These mixing means outside the case then ensure effective mixing of the products. This mixing operation is carried out cold. When a product is in solid form, the mixing of said product with the other products advantageously gives rise to the formation of a pasty mixture of products to be applied.
The fact that the mixing chamber 14 has a free edge 140 with a cross section whose dimensions are greater than or equal to those of all of the other cross sections made within the mixing chamber allows the mixing means to make contact with all of the inner walls of the mixing chamber, without any difficulty. This feature produces high visibility of the interior of the mixing chamber, and ensures homogeneous mixing of the products.
The user then dabs this mixture onto said application means, and applies this mixture to the bodily surface in question.
The advantage of a case of this kind is that the user is able to tip the precise amount of products required into the mixing chamber 14. In other words, the user is able, extemporaneously, to produce a mixture of cosmetic products which is original and can be personalized, having a particular color and/or particular texture. Moreover, the user is able to have a direct view of the mixture of products produced. Such a view makes it possible, in particular, for the properties of the mixture of products to be easily adjusted, by a modification of the amounts of respective products in said mixing chamber 14.
Figure 3 shows another embodiment of a case. Only the differences of this embodiment relative to the embodiment described with reference to figures 1 and 2 will be set out in the remainder of this description. For the sake of clarity, only the product compartment 10 of the container has been shown in detail. However, the statements made in the description of this product compartment 10 will also be applicable to the other product compartments.
To start with, as illustrated, the case 1 may have a general parallelepipedal form. This embodiment shows a case without a mixing chamber connected. In other words, the mixing chamber may be formed directly by the container, and more particularly by the basin 161.
Figure 4 shows more particularly another embodiment of the means for selectively connecting the mixing chamber with said product compartments. This figure shows a shutter 106 which can be moved between an open position and a position closing the orifice 141 in the distribution wall 103. This shutter 106 may be mounted so as to be moveable by translation or slidable relative to the orifice 104.
The shutter 106 may have a body which has a lower end that carries opposing side fins 107. This body may also comprise an upper element which is provided with a protuberance 108 intended to make it easier to grip the shutter 106.
The distribution wall 103 of the product compartment may have a guide groove 109 on either side of the orifice 104. The lateral fins 107 are able to engage in these grooves in order to facilitate the moving of the shutter.
Furthermore, the distribution wall 103 may comprise means 1031 capable of limiting the displacement travel of the shutter 106. Such means may form stops which define the maximum dimension of the orifice 104.
These limiting means 1031 may comprise two projections extending opposite one another, on either side of the orifice 104. Such projections may protrude into said orifice 104.
Figure 5 shows another embodiment of means for selectively connecting the mixing chamber with said product compartments.
In this embodiment, the shutter 106 is mounted in such a way as to be pivotable over the distribution wall 103. The shutter 106 may be articulated by means of an added shaft 1032. As shown, such a shaft may be disposed on a single edge of the orifice 104. A compression spring 5 may be provided in order to create resistance to the movement of the shutter 106. Such a spring may also automatically return the shutter from an open position to a closed position. An a variant, the shutter might be articulated by means of a flexible hinge.
In a variant which has not been shown, this added shaft might be attached on either side of the orifice 104. In particular, this added shaft might be provided on the free edge 1030 of the distribution wall. In that case, the added shaft spans said opening 104.
In one embodiment a device of the invention may comprise grinding means on a first end of a pestle. In that case such a pestle advantageously has a convex end adapted to match the shape of the mixing chamber.
Withdrawal means may also be provided. These withdrawal means allow the particles to be retrieved from one compartment of given particles, and deposited in the mixing chamber.
A device of the invention may comprise a means for housing the application means, withdrawal means and/or grinding means. This housing means may comprise a housing made inside the device of the invention.
The examples below are given by way of illustration, without limitation, of the field of the invention.
The particles of the invention may be obtained by the methods which are conventionally used in cosmetology.
The makeup is prepared by combining particles formed of at least one makeup base and particles additionally possessing at least one material able to provide an optical effect and/or color effect, using a device of the invention.
EXAMPLES Example 1
Preparation of cosmetic particles dedicated to providing a makeup comfort performance benefit
The particles of the invention are obtained by methods which are conventionally used in cosmetology.
For example, the mixture of the starting materials is heated in an electrical melting pot at 90-1000C with magnetic stirring. When the mixture is in the melted state, it is withdrawn using a closed plastic pipette. The pipette is subsequently contacted with a sheet of aluminum paper, and is raised, allowing a drop of product to run out, which sets immediately.
Spherical particles of uniform size, with a diameter of approximately 2 to 3 mm, are obtained in this way.
Example 2 Preparation of cosmetic particles dedicated to providing a makeup holding power performance benefit
The particles are prepared in accordance with the protocol described in example 1.
A makeup composition is prepared by mixing the above two types of particles at ambient temperature by means of a device as described in figures 1 to 5.

Claims

1. Cosmetic particles formed of at least one physiologically acceptable cosmetic base, said particles being characterizable in terms of hardness by a value ranging from 0.3 to 2 MPa and a size such that their greater dimension ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm.
2. The particles as claimed in claim 1, their hardness ranging from 0.3 to 1 MPa and in particular being of the order of 0.7 MPa.
3. The particles as claimed in claim 1 or 2, their size being such that their greater dimension ranges from 1 to 3 mm.
4. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, taking the form of beads.
5. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, possessing at least one material capable of providing a color effect and/or optical effect.
6. The particles as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein said material is selected from colorants which are inorganic pigments, organic pigments and lakes, pearlescent pigments, composite pigments, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, reflective particles, nacres, and mixtures thereof.
7. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, exhibiting at least one performance benefit.
8. The particles as claimed in the preceding claim, exhibiting non-transfer and/or hold and/or comfort performance benefit (s) .
9. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, said particles being formed of a cosmetic base comprising at least one fatty phase.
10. The particles as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein said fatty phase comprises at least one wax selected from polyethylene wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
11. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oil.
12. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one pasty fatty compound.
13. The particles as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, containing from 2% to 20% by weight of pasty compounds .
14. A method of making up a keratin material, especially the skin and/or lips, comprising at least applying to said material a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least two types of cosmetic particles that are separate from one another, said particles being as defined in claims 1 to 13.
15. The method as claimed in claim 14, wherein at least one of the types of particles possesses at least one material capable of providing a color effect and/or optical effect.
16. The method as claimed in claim 14 or 15, wherein said mixing is performed at ambient temperature.
17. The method as claimed in any one of claims 14 to 16, being dedicated to making up the lips.
18. A device useful for the making up of keratin material, comprising at least: two compartments, at least one of said two compartments comprising particles as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, means of grinding said particles, and a mixing chamber separate from said two compartments, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said grinding means.
19. The device as claimed in the preceding claims, wherein said two compartments each comprise one type of particles, each type of particles being separate from one another and being as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13.
20. The device as claimed in claim 18 or 19, wherein said two compartments are secured to one another.
21. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 20, wherein said mixing chamber is capable of being secured to said two particle compartments.
22. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 21, wherein said grinding means further comprise product application means which are configured for applying the composition formed from the mixing of the particles to a bodily surface.
23. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 22, wherein said mixing chamber and said particle compartments are arranged in a case which comprises means of accommodation for said grinding means.
24. The device as claimed in claim 23, wherein said grinding means may be accommodated vertically or horizontally in the case.
25. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 24, wherein said grinding means further comprise product withdrawal means.
26. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 25, comprising a pestle, said pestle an end which forms said grinding means and an opposite end which forms means of applying the composition obtained from the grinding.
27. The device as claimed in claim 26, wherein said withdrawal means comprise a recess made in said pestle between said grinding means and said means of applying the composition obtained by grinding of the particles.
28. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 27, permitting internally the mixing of said particles.
29. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 28, comprising means of selectively connecting said compartments with the mixing chamber.
30. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 29, wherein each compartment comprises an orifice made through a distribution wall, said orifices being capable of being selectively blocked either by the mixing chamber or by a shutter mounted slidably or pivotably relative to said orifice.
31. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 30, wherein said mixing chamber is mounted rotatably relative to said two compartments.
32. The device as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 31, wherein said compartments comprise a base which is inclined relative to a plane of rest of the case, such that said particles are able to
EP08864413A 2007-12-20 2008-12-18 Makeup beads and corresponding method of making up Withdrawn EP2240151A2 (en)

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FR0760106A FR2925295B1 (en) 2007-12-20 2007-12-20 MAKE-UP BEADS AND CORRESPONDING MAKE-UP METHOD
US652008P 2008-01-17 2008-01-17
PCT/IB2008/055426 WO2009081351A2 (en) 2007-12-20 2008-12-18 Makeup beads and corresponding method of making up

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FR2925295B1 (en) 2010-03-05
WO2009081351A3 (en) 2009-08-20
FR2925295A1 (en) 2009-06-26
WO2009081351A2 (en) 2009-07-02

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