KR20220156274A - Cosmetic composition comprising natural herb complex extract as effective component - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a natural herb complex extract as an active ingredient, and more specifically, to a cosmetic composition which comprises a complex extract of Terminalia ferdinandiana, Phyllanthus emblica fruits, watercress, asparagus and pea as an active ingredient, and which exhibits excellent skin protection effect, skin inflammation alleviation effect, skin irritation relief and soothing effect, and skin barrier strengthening effect.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising natural herb complex extract as an effective component

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a natural complex extract as an active ingredient, and specifically, it contains kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea complex extracts as active ingredients for excellent skin regeneration effect and skin inflammation improvement It relates to a cosmetic composition exhibiting effects, skin irritation relief and soothing effects, and skin barrier strengthening effects.

The epidermal layer, the outermost layer of the skin, is composed of keratinocytes and serves to protect the skin from various external stimuli such as chemicals, air pollutants, dry environments, and ultraviolet rays. Among them, the outermost stratum corneum of the epidermal layer is formed by keratinocytes and is composed of keratinocytes and a lipid layer.

Keratinocytes are exfoliated and new keratinocytes are generated according to a certain cycle, and their functions can be easily damaged by environmental stimuli such as excessive physical stimulation, chemical stimulation, and temperature change. In addition, fine dust, yellow dust, and large diurnal temperature differences caused by environmental pollution in modern society can cause extreme stress on the stratum corneum, so it is necessary to develop cosmetics for strengthening the skin barrier that can protect and soothe the epidermal layer, specifically the stratum corneum, from external stimuli. .

The present inventors confirmed that kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, peas, etc. exhibit these activities while studying natural products having skin inflammation improvement, skin protection and skin barrier strengthening activities.

Conventionally, it has been disclosed that an enzyme-treated kakadu plum extract has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, and an Amla (Indian gooseberry) extract is effective for hair loss and hair growth promotion. In addition, it is known about the skin regeneration and antioxidant effects of watercress extract using ultrasonic technology, the anti-inflammatory effect of asparagus stem mixture extract, and the skin damage improvement effect of pea mixture extract (Prior Art Documents 1-5 below). However, prior research on the skin improvement activity of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea complex extracts has not been done yet.

The present inventors found that the kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, and pea complex extracts prepared by a specific method have excellent skin regeneration effects, skin inflammation improvement effects, skin irritation relief and soothing effects, and skin barrier strengthening due to their synergistic effects. The present invention was completed by confirming that the effect is shown.

(001) Republic of Korea Patent Registration No. 10-1965250 (2019.03.28) (002) Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-2018-0013422 (2018.02.07) (003) Republic of Korea Patent No. 10-2062010 (2019.12.26) (004) Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-2018-0082177 (2018.07.18) (005) Republic of Korea Patent Registration No. 10-1829553 (2018.02.08)

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing a complex extract of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea as an active ingredient.

According to the present invention in order to achieve the above object, a cosmetic composition containing 0.02 to 20% by weight of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea complex extract based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is provided.

The composite extract is extracted by mixing kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and peas in a weight ratio of 1 to 5:1 to 5:1 to 5:1 to 5:1 to 5, respectively, and more preferably Preferably, it is mixed and extracted at a ratio of 2:3:4:5:1.

The composite extract is prepared by extraction with at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

The cosmetic composition is characterized in that it is for skin regeneration, skin inflammation improvement, skin irritation relief and soothing, and skin barrier strengthening.

The kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, and pea complex extracts of the present invention are safe to the human body, and have excellent skin regeneration effects, skin inflammation improvement effects, skin irritation relief and soothing effects, and skin barrier strengthening effects due to their synergistic action. It can be usefully used as a cosmetic for skin improvement.

1 is a graph showing the Wound healing effect of the composite extract prepared according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 2 is a graph showing the expression inhibitory effect of inflammatory mediators of the composite extract prepared according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 3 is a graph showing the effect of increasing the expression of barrier-related factors of the composite extract prepared according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

Kakadu plum ( Terminalia Ferdinandiana ) is resistant to pests and has excellent self-sustaining ability, and fruits, leaves, roots, and whole trees are used as food, medicine, or cosmetic raw materials. Kakadu Plum contains the most vitamin C among existing plants on earth. Vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis of proline and amino acids to help improve skin elasticity and protects the skin from active oxygen and UV rays. In the present invention, leaves, stems, fruits, and outposts may be used, and fruits are preferably used.

Indian gooseberry ( Phyllanthus emblica Linn. ), commonly called 'Amla', is a dipole and deciduous tree. It grows wild throughout India, is cultivated, and is considered a sacred tree. Indian gooseberry fruit contains vitamin C, minerals, amino acids, tannins, flavonoids, ellagic acid, etc., and has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin protection activities. In the present invention, leaves, stems, fruits, and outposts may be used, and fruits are preferably used.

Watercress ( Nasturtium officinale ) is a perennial aquatic herbaceous plant belonging to the mustard family native to Europe and northern western Asia, better known as Watercress or Cressong. Watercress contains a large amount of protein, calcium, iron, vitamins A, B1, B2, C, E, etc., and has an antioxidant effect. Its leaves and stems contain a glycoside called gluconasturtin. (phenylethylisothiocyanate) is produced, which helps prevent DNA damage. In the present invention, leaves, stems, roots, and outposts may be used, and preferably, outposts are used.

Asparagus ( Asparagus officinalis ) is a herbaceous perennial plant that grows to a height of 100-180 cm, and is a monocotyledonous plant of the lily order, originating from Europe, North Africa, and South Asia. Asparagus is rich in various vitamins and amino acids, and in particular, contains a large amount of aspartic acid, a kind of amino acid, and is known to help recover from fatigue and relieve hangovers. In addition, according to the reported research data, asparagus was reported to be effective in activating the skin cell cycle irradiated with ultraviolet rays. Roots, stems, shoots, and outposts may be used in the present invention, and shoots are preferably used.

Pea ( Pisum Sativum ) is a biennial plant belonging to the legume family. It is native to Central Asia and the Middle East, and it is known that the ancient Greeks cultivated and ate it already in 400-500 BC. Peas are rich in carbohydrates, proteins, and B vitamins, so they have a protective effect on the skin. In the present invention, leaves, stems, and grains may be used, and grains are preferably used.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, a composite extract consisting of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, and pea is prepared by the following method.

First, kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, and peas are mixed, and at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, lower alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol is used. After extraction and filtration, concentrated under reduced pressure to prepare a composite extract. Preferably, extraction is performed using a mixed solvent of water and butylene glycol.

Preferably, the kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea are mixed and extracted in a weight ratio of 1 to 5:1 to 5:1 to 5:1 to 5:1 to 5, respectively, and 2:3 When mixed and extracted at a ratio of 4:5:1, it is more preferable because it shows the best skin protection effect, skin inflammation improvement effect, skin irritation relief and soothing effect, and skin barrier strengthening effect. The composite extract may be prepared by mixing in the above ratio after preparing each extract.

The composite extract as an active ingredient is contained in an amount of 0.02 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition may be used for skin regeneration, skin inflammation improvement, skin irritation relief and soothing, and skin barrier strengthening.

In the present invention, the formulation of the cosmetic composition is not limited, but may be prepared in the form of a general emulsified formulation and a solubilized formulation. Emulsified cosmetics include lotions, creams, lotions, shampoos, cleansing foams, etc., and solubilized cosmetics include toners, skin softeners, skin toners, packs, and the like.

In addition, by containing a dermatologically acceptable medium and base other than cosmetics, it can be prepared in the form of an adjuvant that can be applied topically and systemically, which is commonly used in the field of dermatology.

[Example]

Hereinafter, the configuration and operation of the present invention will be described in more detail through preferred embodiments of the present invention. However, the following examples are provided to aid understanding of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Example 1: Preparation of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea complex extract

Washed and dried kakadu plum fruit, Indian gooseberry fruit, watercress outpost, asparagus sprout, and pea grain were mixed in a ratio of 1:1:1:1:1 (total weight 500g), and then added to 10 times purified water and 50 After extracting for 3 hours at ℃ and then concentrating at a temperature of 65 ~ 75 ℃ using a vacuum concentrator, it was diluted with 5 times purified water to prepare a composite extract.

Example 2: Preparation of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, pea composite extract

A composite extract was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 by adjusting the weight ratio of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, and pea as shown in Table 1 below (total weight: 500 g).

kakadu plum Indian gooseberry watercress asparagus pea Example 2 One 2 3 4 5 Example 3 2 3 4 5 One Example 4 3 4 5 One 2 Example 5 4 5 One 2 3 Example 6 5 One 2 3 4

Comparative Example 1: Preparation of kakadu plum extract

An extract was prepared by extracting 500 g of the washed and dried kakadu plum in the same manner as in Example 1.

Comparative Example 2: Preparation of Indian gooseberry extract

An extract was prepared by extracting 500 g of the washed and dried Indian gooseberry in the same manner as in Example 1.

Comparative Example 3: Preparation of watercress extract

An extract was prepared by extracting 500 g of washed and dried watercress in the same manner as in Example 1.

Comparative Example 4: Preparation of Asparagus Extract

An extract was prepared by extracting 500 g of the washed and dried asparagus in the same manner as in Example 1.

Comparative Example 5: Preparation of pea extract

An extract was prepared by extracting 500 g of washed and dried peas in the same manner as in Example 1.

Test Example 1: Confirmation of cell non-toxicity and cell proliferation effect

The cytotoxic and proliferative effects were confirmed using the extracts prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples. HaCaT keratinocytes were inoculated into each well of a 96-well microplate to form 1×10 ⁴ cells, and cultured at 37° C. for 24 hours using DMEM medium. Then, the final concentrations of Examples and Comparative Examples were 0.5, 1.0%, 2.0%, and 5.0%, respectively, and the experimental group replaced with DMEM medium containing 2.5% serum and the control group replaced with serum-free DMEM medium for 24 hours. further cultured. After culturing, in order to compare the viability of the cells, MTT solution (3mg / ml) was added, and the cell viability was measured by using an ELISA READER to measure the absorbance at 570 nm, and the cell proliferation rate of the experimental group compared to the control group was calculated.

Cell proliferation rate (%) Classification/Concentration 0% (control) 0.5% 1.0% 2.0% 5.0% Example 1 100 93.4 92.7 88.5 87.2 Example 2 100 103.7 102.4 100.1 100.2 Example 3 100 107.7 107.8 105.8 105.3 Example 4 100 103.4 101.3 100.4 99.5 Example 5 100 98.7 97.8 94.5 92.5 Example 6 100 100.1 98.4 95.3 92.2 Comparative Example 1 100 94.4 90.5 89.7 88.4 Comparative Example 2 100 94.8 92.4 88.2 87.7 Comparative Example 3 100 98.8 95.5 93.4 92.4 Comparative Example 4 100 104.4 102.2 102.3 99.8 Comparative Example 5 100 97.7 97.1 96.6 95.5

As shown in Table 2, when the cell proliferation in the cell growth optimal conditions is 100%, the extracts of Examples and Comparative Examples are all non-toxic to cells, and in Examples 2 to 4, Example 6 and Comparative Example 4, cell It was confirmed that the proliferative effect was excellent.

Test Example 2: Skin irritation safety evaluation

In order to evaluate the skin safety of the extracts prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples, 15 healthy subjects in their 10s to 30s were tested according to CTFA guidelines (The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance association, Safety testing guidelines). was carried out.

The extracts of Examples and Comparative Examples were applied for 24 hours at 20uL each using Finn chambers on Scanpor tape. After removing the patch, the skin irritation reaction of each test site was observed 30 minutes, 24 hours, and 48 hours later, and judged according to the regulations of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG). The criteria for skin safety reading of the International Contact Dermatitis Study Society are listed in Table 3, and the average result values according to the evaluation criteria are shown in Table 4.

Symbol Clinical Description - non-irritating ± Unirritable, faint or barely perceptible pale erythema + Mild irritation, well-bordered erythema, edema, and papules ++ Moderate irritation, marked erythema, papules and vesicles +++ Severe irritation, severe erythema and blisters, scab formation - ± + ++ +++ Score 0.0 0.5 1.0 2.0 3.0

division 30 minutes later 24 hours later 48 hours later Judgment Example 1 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Example 2 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Example 3 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Example 4 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Example 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Example 6 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Comparative Example 1 0.5 0.5 0.0 unstimulated Comparative Example 2 0.5 0.5 0.0 unstimulated Comparative Example 3 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Comparative Example 4 0.0 0.0 0.0 non-irritating Comparative Example 5 0.5 0.0 0.0 unstimulated

As confirmed in Table 4, the extracts of Examples showed no irritation to the skin, and Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, and Comparative Example 5 showed slight irritation.

Test Example 3: Confirmation of wound healing effect

In order to confirm the skin regeneration effect of the extracts prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples Wound healing assay was performed. HaCaT cells were divided and cultured in a 6-well plate at a concentration of 1×10 ⁶ cells/well, replaced with FBS-free medium, starvated for 18 hours, cultured for 24 hours, scratched, and the control was FBS-free. The included medium was used, and HaCaT cells were treated with 2% sample, cultured for 24 hours, and observed under an electron microscope at 100 magnification. The cell regeneration rate was calculated by the formula below, and the results are shown in FIG. 1 .

Cell regeneration rate (%) = [(plate area after sample treatment / plate area immediately after scratch) × 100]

As a result of measuring the wound healing effect, it was confirmed that the interval between cells was narrowed in the extracts prepared according to the above examples and comparative examples, and the composite extracts of the above examples showed a more excellent wound healing effect than each extract of the comparative examples And it was found. Among them, it was found that the composite extracts of Examples 2 and 3 exhibited a more excellent cell regeneration rate, indicating that the skin regeneration effect was excellent.

Test Example 4: Measurement of expression level of inflammatory mediators

Using the extracts prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples, tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α), an inflammatory mediator, and NF-kB expression inhibitory effect, which is involved in cell survival and cell response to stimulation as a nuclear transcription factor, were confirmed. did

HaCaT cells were dispensed in a 12 well plate at a concentration of 1×10 ⁶ cells/well and cultured for 24 hours. HaCaT cells were treated with 10 ng/mL of LPS, incubated for 24 hours, RNA was extracted from the cultured cells, and the expression levels of TNF-α and NF-kB were measured through reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR). Results are shown in FIG. 2 . The rate of inhibition of expression of inflammatory mediators was calculated by the following formula, and an untreated group was used as a negative control group, and 100 μM of dexamethasone was used as a positive control group.

Inhibition rate of inflammatory mediator expression (%) = 100 - [(expression amount of sample / expression amount of negative control group) × 100]

As shown in Figure 2, the composite extract of Example exhibited a more excellent inhibitory effect on the expression of inflammatory mediators than each of the extracts of Comparative Example. Among them, the composite extract of Example 3 showed the most excellent effect.

Test Example 5: Confirmation of skin barrier-related factor expression increase effect

Using the extracts prepared in the above Examples and Comparative Examples, the expression level of TGM 1 (transglutaminase 1) involved in protein cross-linking with FLG (Filaggrin), a keratin-binding protein of mammalian epidermal cells, was measured to increase the expression of barrier-related factors. The effect was confirmed.

HaCaT cells were dispensed in a 12 well plate at a concentration of 1×10 ⁶ cells/well and cultured for 24 hours. HaCaT cells were treated with UVB of 200mJ/cm ² , incubated for 24 hours, RNA was extracted from the cultured cells, and the expression levels of FLG and TGM 1 were measured through reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR), and the results were analyzed. shown in Figure 3. The rate of increase in expression of barrier-related factors was calculated by the following formula, and 50 ppm of retinoic acid was used as a negative control group and an untreated group as a positive control group.

Barrier-related factor expression increase rate (%) = [(expression amount of sample / expression amount of negative control group) × 100]

As confirmed in Figure 3, the extracts of Examples and Comparative Examples showed a high expression increase rate of skin barrier-related factors overall, and among them, Examples 2 and 3 showed more excellent effects.

Formulation Examples 1 to 4: Preparation of lotion containing complex extracts of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea

Lotions containing the extracts of Examples and Comparative Examples as active ingredients were prepared in a conventional manner according to the composition shown in Table 5 below.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Formulation Examples comparative example One 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 Example 2 0.5 5.0 - - - - - - Example 3 - - 0.5 5.0 - - - - Comparative Example 3 - - - - 0.5 5.0 - - Comparative Example 4 - - - - - - 0.5 5.0 Glyceryl Stearate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Cetostearyl Alcohol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 shea butter 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sorbitan Stearate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 vegetable squalane 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 dimethicone 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 betaine 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 1,2-hexanediol 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 sodium hyaluronate 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 preservatives, fragrances, colors a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount Purified water balance balance balance balance balance balance balance balance

Test Example 6: Measurement of skin erythema alleviation effect

Using the lotion prepared in Formulation Examples and Comparative Examples, 40 women with red skin due to irritation were selected, divided into groups of 5 each, and used on the face twice a day for 2 weeks. Measure the erythema index after having them used. did For the measurement method, Mexameter MX 18 (Courage + Khazaka Electronic, Germany) was used to measure the eryhma index (EI) through the sensor within 1 second after contacting Mexameter MX 18 on both cheeks. Measurements were repeated 3 times per individual. The average values are shown in Table 6 below.

sample name Erythema Index (EI) before use Post-use erythema index (EI) Formulation Example 1 13.2±7.2 9.5±3.3 Formulation Example 2 15.2±3.2 5.1±3.8 Formulation Example 3 14.2±8.8 8.8±2.5 Formulation Example 4 14.8±4.1 4.2±1.2 Comparative Example 6 15.4±5.5 11.2±3.8 Comparative Example 7 13.5±3.8 5.5±2.4 Comparative Example 8 13.9±5.3 10.1±3.6 Comparative Example 9 14.7±6.2 5.8±4.2

As confirmed in Table 6, the lotion containing the kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea complex extracts of the present invention showed an erythema alleviation effect, and it can be confirmed that the erythema alleviation effect is better at high concentrations. could Among them, the formulation Example 4 lotion containing 5% of the complex extract of Example 3 exhibited the most excellent erythema alleviation effect.

Test Example 7: Skin barrier improvement evaluation

In order to evaluate the degree of skin barrier improvement, the amount of water loss in the transepidermal layer was evaluated. Using the lotions prepared in Formulation Examples and Comparative Examples, 40 women were divided into groups of 5 each and used on the face twice a day for 2 weeks, and then the amount of transepidermal water loss was measured. The measurement method was to measure the transepidermal water loss (g/m ² /h) after contacting the TEWL probe to both cheeks using Dermalab combo (Cortex technology, Denmark). Measurements were repeated 3 times per individual. The average values are shown in Table 7 below.

sample name Transepidermal water loss before use (g/m ² /h) Transepidermal water loss after use (g/m ² /h) Formulation Example 1 17.7 7.1 Formulation Example 2 15.5 4.2 Formulation Example 3 16.5 6.5 Formulation Example 4 16.4 3.8 Comparative Example 6 15.8 9.8 Comparative Example 7 16.7 8.1 Comparative Example 8 17.7 11.2 Comparative Example 9 16.5 7.8

As confirmed in Table 7, the lotion containing the kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus, and pea complex extracts of the examples of the present invention showed an effect of reducing transepidermal water loss, and at high concentrations, the effect of reducing transepidermal water loss was more excellence was confirmed. Among them, the formulation Example 4 lotion containing 5% of the complex extract of Example 3 exhibited the most excellent transepidermal water loss reduction effect.

Claims (7)

A cosmetic composition containing 0.02 to 20% by weight of a complex extract of kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and pea, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to claim 1, wherein the composite extract is kakadu plum, Indian gooseberry, watercress, asparagus and peas are mixed in a weight ratio of 1 to 5: 1 to 5: 1 to 5: 1 to 5: 1 to 5, respectively A cosmetic composition, characterized in that extracted. The method of claim 1, wherein the composite extract is prepared by extracting with at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, glycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol. cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is for skin regeneration. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is for improving skin inflammation. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is for skin irritation relief and soothing. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is for strengthening the skin barrier.

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