JP2006009172A - Method for cutting out parts of cloth product from fabric and method for sewing cloth product - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for efficiently sewing parts that are efficiently cut out of a fabric. <P>SOLUTION: A fabric is woven by a loom equipped with a jacquard mechanism, being such as to be distributed with many segments substantially closed along contour lines to be served as parts of a cloth product like a garment body. The contour lines are constituted of weave design and parts can be cut along the contour lines. A site of the multiple design in a part 12 is cut along cutting lines 18-1, 18-2 and 18-3 so as to partly separate upper and lower layers 18A and 18B. The upper and lower layers 18A and 18B are joined to each other at a line 18-4, along which the upper layer 18A is folded back to obtain a garment body part with extended portion. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a cloth and a sewing method, and is suitable for making a cloth product such as clothing by cutting out a part from the cloth and sewing the part.

When manufacturing clothing, the body of the clothing, parts such as sleeves and collars are cut out from the fabric such as woven fabric or knitted fabric, and the cut out baht is sewn to finish the clothing. In order to cut out the parts, the paper pattern is applied to a woven or knitted fabric, a cutting line is drawn by adding a sewing allowance using a marking tool such as a chaco pen, and cutting is performed by adding the sewing allowance to the cut line. Such manual cutting is still widely performed for custom-made clothes, but since it is inefficient, computer cutting is the mainstream for mass-produced products. In the case of computer cutting, pattern data is stored in a storage device, and the stored pattern data is read and a cut line is calculated in consideration of the seam allowance. Using this cut line, cutting is performed by a laser cutting device (patent) Reference 1).
JP 7-26409 A

  In the prior art, parts (cloth pieces) that match the shape of the paper pattern are cut out by cutting the cloth according to the paper pattern. Conventionally, parts that are adjacent to each other, such as the body and sleeves, are assembled by sewing. Therefore, there were many sewing locations. Further, since the number of parts constituting the clothing is relatively increased, the sewing work becomes troublesome, and the consumption of the fabric required as a material increases, resulting in poor efficiency.

  The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to enable efficient cutting out of parts for clothing.

  According to the first aspect of the present invention, a fabric in which a large number of substantially closed areas are distributed along the contour line, which is a part of the fabric product, is formed with jacquard, and the contour lines of the respective areas are formed. In the method of cutting out a fabric along the line and forming a part for assembly into a fabric product, at least a part of the area in the fabric is partially formed of multiple structures, and the cutting of the part from the fabric is performed. In some cases, in at least some areas of the area partially formed of multiple tissues, at least some of the layers are cut while maintaining connection with the remaining layers. Extension to the remaining layers provides a method characterized in that it is the final part for assembly into a fabric product.

  According to the second aspect of the present invention, a large number of substantially closed areas along the contour line, which become parts of the fabric product, are distributed over substantially the entire surface of the predetermined length portion of the fabric. The fabric is formed with a jacquard structure, and at the time of forming the fabric, at least a part of each of the areas is composed of at least a part of the multiple structure, and when cutting out each part from the fabric. In the at least some area partially formed of multiple tissues, some layers of the multiple tissues are cut while maintaining connection with the remaining layers, and the some layers are removed from the remaining layers. There is provided a sewing method characterized in that a part is obtained as a part of a cloth product by being stretched to form a cloth product.

  The operation and effect of the invention of claim 1 will be described. A part of a multi-tissue area in a part is cut off with some layers remaining connected to the remaining layers, and can be expanded to constitute an extended part of the part. The length of the part can be made longer than the length of the fabric, the utilization efficiency of the fabric can be increased, and the efficiency (production efficiency) of the fabric forming process such as woven or knitted can be increased.

  The operation and effect of the invention of claim 2 will be explained. A part of the multi-tissue area in the part is cut off with some layers remaining connected to the remaining layers, and can be expanded to constitute an extended part of the part. The length of the part can be made longer than the length of the fabric, and extended portions such as sleeves and hems can be obtained integrally at the fabric formation stage, and the sewing efficiency can be increased. And the parts of the multiple tissues and the parts of the tissues with fewer layers are mixed in the parts, and the parts of the multiple tissues should be parts that require thickness such as collars and sleeve tips (color). Thus, steps such as interlining and folding can be omitted during sewing.

  FIG. 1 shows a part of a woven fabric 10 as an embodiment of the present invention, which is woven by a loom equipped with a jacquard as a warp opening device. In this embodiment, for example, a jacquard having a large number of units exceeding 10,000 (for example, STAUBLI model number LX3200) is used. Therefore, independent opening control for each warp thread in the entire woven width. Can be made. Of course, it is possible to use a jacquard having a smaller number depending on the necessity (required weaving width).

  The woven fabric 10 is arranged so that areas that become parts of a jacket as clothing when distributed are distributed. It goes without saying that substantially all the parts of the jacket are distributed over the portion of the woven fabric 10 having a predetermined length so that all the parts of the jacket can be obtained by cutting. However, for convenience of explanation, FIG. 1 shows only a part of this predetermined length portion of the woven fabric, and therefore, FIG. 1 illustrates only an area that is part of the jacket of the woven fabric. Please note that. In FIG. 1, reference numeral 12 denotes a rear left part of the jacket, 14 denotes a collar, and 16 denotes a left part of the front part. In area 12, the outline of this part (left back body) is shown at 12-1. The cutting from the woven fabric to the part is performed along the contour line 12-1, but the contour line is structured so as to stand up in order to facilitate the cutting along the contour line. In other words, the contour line 12-1 is a kind of pattern, and in this embodiment, this pattern is a large pattern that covers almost half of the weaving width, but the use of jacquard makes it possible to fabricate such a large pattern. ing. Another contour line 12-2 and alignment mark 12-3 are visible so as to form a belt-like region along the entire circumference and inside of the contour line 12-1 for cutting. This belt-like region is sewn. By adopting this jacquard, the belt-like region for sewing can be expressed as a woven pattern with an arbitrary shape and in an arbitrary size, and sewing becomes easy. That is, in the conventional sewing, the seam allowance is handwritten with a marking pen, but in the embodiment of the present invention, the seam allowance is a band-shaped area along the contour of the part, and is matched with a similar band-shaped area in the adjacent part to be assembled. Therefore, easy and reliable sewing operation by hand can be expected. Similarly, for the areas 14 and 16, the contour lines 14-1 and 16-1 for cutting out the parts and the contour line 14-2 for forming a belt-like seam allowance area close to the contour lines 14-1 and 16-1 are used. , 16-2 is woven as a woven pattern visually visible.

  In the embodiment of the present invention, areas such as parts 12, 14, and 16 are mixed with a single tissue and a double tissue (including multiple tissues such as triple and quadruple). A part of the double tissue is partially separated to constitute an extended part of the part. In the figure, a single tissue site is indicated by L1, and a double tissue site is indicated by L2. The ground portion 10 'in the woven fabric 10 other than 12, 14, 16, etc., which is a part of the jacket, is composed of a single tissue. In the present invention, the parts such as 12, 14, 16 which are parts of the jacket are at least partially mixed with a single tissue part (L1) and a double tissue part (L2). At the tissue site, a part of the layer is separated by cutting while maintaining the connection with the remaining layer, and an extended part of the part is formed by folding the separated layer. In FIG. 1, Y (Yellow), YG (Yellow Green), and G (Green) indicate the color tone of the part. Plain (plain weave), lattice, 1/3 (1/3 twill) Represents a woven structure.

  Explaining in detail the excision / extension of the double layer portion at the part to be the part of the jacket, FIG. 2 (a) shows the area 12 on the left side of the back body before being cut from the woven fabric 10, For the sake of simplicity, only the outline 12-1 of the part is shown, and the line representing the adjacent seam allowance (12-2 in FIG. 1) is not shown. A double woven region 18 in the area 12 is shown with cross diagonal lines, and is composed of upper and lower layers 18A and 18B that are completely separated as shown in FIG. 3, and a portion 12 'other than the cross hatched portion is a single layer. It is an organization. In this cross-hatched area 18, boundaries 18-1, 18-2, 18-3 with a single tissue area are creased in the order of arrows a1, a2, a3, and the upper layer 18A is separated from the lower layer 18B. Is done. However, the upper and lower layers 18A and 18B are not separated for the remaining boundary line 18-4. Accordingly, the upper layer 18A in the double layer area 18 remains connected to the single layer portion 12 "adjacent to the boundary line 18-4. In this way, the upper layer 18A and the lower layer 18B in the double layer are partially separated. After that, the area 12 itself is cut out from the woven fabric 10. That is, the single tissue portion of the woven fabric 10 is cut out in the order of arrows b1, b2, b3, b4 along the contour line 12-1, FIG. B) shows the left side of the back body as a part of the jacket separated from the fabric by cutting out from the fabric along the outline 12-1 as shown by arrows b1, b2, b3, b4. 18A is separated from the lower layer 18B at the boundary lines 18-1, 18-2, and 18-3, but the boundary line 18-4 maintains the connection with the lower layer 18B, in other words, the single tissue portion 12 '. The separated upper layer 18A is extended symmetrically with respect to the boundary line 18-4, and this extension In this embodiment, a part of the body as a part has a double structure, and the upper and lower layers are partially separated and expanded in the part of the double structure. In this embodiment, since a part to be a sleeve later can be woven into the body part at the same time, the pattern can be freely arranged on the woven fabric. The degree is increased, and a large number of patterns can be arranged in a relatively narrow area of the woven fabric, so that weaving efficiency can be increased.

  FIG. 4 (a) shows a state in which the collar portion 14 is woven into the woven fabric, and the portion of the seam allowance adjacent to the inside of the contour line 14-1 is omitted as in FIG. The double woven portion 20 is shown with crossed diagonal lines, and the remaining portion of the collar portion 14 other than the portion 20 is a single tissue. Further, although the contour 14-1 is a single tissue, it is woven so that the contour is raised by jacquard. When cutting out parts from the woven fabric 10, the double woven portion 20 separates the upper layer 20A from the lower layer 20B at the boundary lines 20-1 and 20-2, and the lower layer 20B is separated from the upper layer 20A at the boundary line 20-3. Disconnect from. In FIG. 5, 20-3 ′ cuts off the cut-off portion of the upper layer 20A from the lower layer 20B at the boundary line 20-3. However, the upper and lower layers are not cut at the boundary line 20-4. On the other hand, for the single tissue portion, the single tissue portion is cut along the contour line of the part 14 as indicated by arrows c1, c2, c3, c4, c5, c6, c7, and c8. FIG. 4B shows the parts of the collar portion obtained after the separation, and the upper and lower layers 20A and 20B of the single tissue separated from the double tissue portion are indicated by cross diagonal lines. Then, the separated upper layer 20A of the single tissue is expanded around the boundary line 20-4, and the single tissue portion 14 'is integrally connected to the layer 20A by the boundary line 20-3. This single-tissue portion 14 'shows the sword tip portion of the collar. In a normal sewing operation, the sword tip portion of the collar is often thickened by putting a lining, but in the present invention, it is a single tissue. It is thicker than the upper layer 20A, 20B of the heavy tissue, and the sword tip can be constructed without lining.

  FIG. 6 (a) shows a pattern of the left side of the front body before being cut from the woven fabric 10 with respect to the front body left section 16 (see also FIG. 1), and a line (16-2 in FIG. 1) representing the adjacent seam allowance. Etc.) are not shown as in FIGS. The double woven region 30 in the area 16 is represented by cross diagonal lines, and is composed of upper and lower layers as in FIG. 3, and the part 16 ′ other than the cross hatched part is a single tissue. In this cross-hatched region 30, the boundary line 30-1 with the single tissue region is creased as indicated by the arrow d1 in the upper layer 30A (the upper layer 30A is separated from the lower layer 30B). At 30B, wrinkles are made as indicated by an arrow d2 (the lower layer 30B is separated from the upper layer 30A), and at the boundary line 30-3, wrinkles are put at the upper layer 30A as indicated by an arrow d3. However, separation is not performed between the upper and lower layers 30A and 30B in the remaining boundary line 30-4. After the upper layer 30A and the lower layer 30B in the double layer are partially separated in this way, the area 16 itself is cut out from the woven fabric 10. That is, the single tissue portion of the woven fabric 10 is cut out in the order of arrows e1, e2, e3, e4, e5, e6, e7, e8 along the contour line 16-1, and FIG. Along the line 16-1, the left side of the front body is shown as the part of the jacket separated by cutting out like arrows e1, e2, e3, e4, e5, e6, e7, e8, and the upper and lower layers of the double weave 30A and 30B are separated from each other at the boundary lines 30-1, 30-2, and 30-3, but the connection is maintained at the boundary line 30-4. The separated upper layer 30A extends symmetrically with respect to the boundary line 30-4, and this extended part is integrated with the body part, but becomes a part of the sleeve of the jacket when deployed. The upper layer 30A serving as the sleeve portion is integrally formed with a single tissue portion 16 ″, which is a cuff portion. The cuff part in the sleeve is often folded back to make it thicker than the other part of the sleeve. However, in this invention, the thin part is formed by opening only one side layer 30A of the double tissue, and the cuff part 16 is formed. ″ Can be made relatively thick by using a single tissue.

  The parts as the cloth pieces cut out from the woven fabric in this way are finished into a jacket by sewing as in the conventional case. In this invention, the seam allowance lines (12-2, 14-2, 16-2 in FIG. 1) are woven as a woven pattern at regular intervals with respect to the contour lines of the parts, and a belt-like seam allowance area is formed. Therefore, a marking tool such as a chaco pen in the conventional sewing is unnecessary, and an efficient and highly accurate sewing operation can be performed.

  In the woven fabric according to the present invention, independent opening control of warp yarn is possible over substantially the entire woven width by jacquard, and a very diverse organization and pattern can be selected, and the functionality of clothing is enhanced to the maximum. It is possible to mix different types of warp and / or weft yarns at the same time, or make multiple body or bag weaves and collars, inject air, cotton, etc. By further combining the appearance of a quilt-like effect, a further improvement in functionality can be realized.

  In the present invention, various operations such as setting of the area according to each part of the clothing on the woven fabric and setting of the tissue in each area are performed on the screen in commercially available computer software (for example, apparel CAD). be able to. In pattern making by apparel CAD, drawing can be performed by an operation on the screen, the drawn pattern can be assigned to an arbitrary part of the woven fabric, and an arbitrary woven structure can be designated for each part. And recently, software that seamlessly connects the output data of apparel CAD to Jacquard pattern punching device is also provided, and pattern data created by apparel CAD is converted to input data to the pattern punching device, It is possible to automatically pierce the crest. Also in this invention, by utilizing such means, distribution of areas corresponding to each part of clothing and setting of organization in each area are performed by operation on the screen. Weaving can be performed by setting to.

  In the above embodiment, the present invention is directed to the woven fabric provided with the areas that become the parts of the jacket by cutting out, but the idea of the present invention is not limited to clothing, but also from the back to shoes and other fabric products. The same can be applied.

  In the above embodiment, by using the jacquard structure in the woven fabric and individually controlling the opening of the warp in a wide range such as the entire width of the woven fabric, the parts of the fabric product can be distinguished from each other in terms of appearance. This is an explanation of a case where a garment is made by weaving, cutting while leaving a seam allowance, and sewing. However, the present invention can be implemented not only in woven fabrics but also in knitted fabrics. For example, in the case of warp knitting, it is known that there is a heel (so-called jacquard heel) that controls the lateral movement of each warp in a wide knitting width such as the full width. Thus, a large organization over a wide range such as the entire width of the knitted fabric is possible. Therefore, for knitted fabric in warp knitting using the jacquard structure, each part of clothing is knitted so that the seam allowance along the contour line can be visually distinguished, and part of the part is formed with multiple structures Then, in the multi-tissue part, part of the layer is partially separated from the remaining layer, the part of the separated layer is folded back with respect to the remaining layer, and cut as a part having an extended integral part. Then, the cut parts can be sewn at the seam allowance to form clothing. Further, by adopting a jacquard structure, the seam allowance portion can be knitted as a belt-like band that can be visually distinguished, and an efficient and highly accurate sewing operation can be performed as in the case of a woven fabric. In addition, with the adoption of the jacquard structure, an arbitrary pattern can be formed on each baht, and the design and functionality can be maximized as in the case of the woven fabric.

  In addition, a knitting machine equipped with a jacquard mechanism is also known for weft knitting and circular knitting. In this type of knitting machine, needle selection control is performed independently for each knitting needle with a wide knitting width such as the full width of the knitted fabric. As in the case of woven fabric and warp knitting, large-scale knitting that covers the entire width of the knitted fabric is possible. Therefore, even in the case of weft knitting and circular knitting, each part of the garment is sectioned into a knitted fabric, each section is partially multi-structured, and some layers of the multi-tissue part are partially compared to the remaining layers. It is possible to implement the present invention by forming an extended part of the part by excising and expanding.

FIG. 1 shows a part of a woven fabric according to the present invention in which areas of multiple parts of the jacket are distributed over the predetermined length. FIG. 2 shows the outline in the left section of the back body of the woven fabric of FIG. 1 in (a), and in (b) the upper layer of the double tissue is partially cut and expanded, and the site of the single tissue is a part. The state which was made into the last part (rear body left) by cut | disconnecting along an outline is shown. FIG. 3 is a schematic sectional view taken along line III-III in FIG. FIG. 4 shows a contour line in the section of the collar in the woven fabric of FIG. 1 in (a), and partially cuts the upper layer of the double tissue in (b), and the part of the single tissue along the part contour line. The final part (collar) is shown by cutting and unfolding. FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view taken along line VV in FIG. FIG. 6 shows a contour line in the left part of the front body of the woven fabric of FIG. 1 in (a), and in (b), the upper layer of the double tissue is partially cut and expanded, and the site of the single tissue is a part. The final part (front body left) is shown by cutting and unfolding along the contour line.

Explanation of symbols

10 ... Woven cloth 12 ... Rear body left
12-1… Left body left contour
12-2 ... Left seam allowance line 14 ... Collar
14-1 ... Collar outline
14-2 ... Collar seam 16 ... Front body left
16-1… Left outline of front body
16-2… Left seam on the front body
18A, 18B… Upper and lower layers
18-1, 18-2, 18-3… Boundary lines of upper and lower layers

Claims (2)

  Fabrics, which are parts of fabric products, are formed with jacquard and distributed in a number of substantially closed areas along the contour line, and the fabric is cut out along the contour lines of the respective areas. In the method of forming a part for assembly into a fabric, at least a part of the area in the fabric is partially formed with multiple structures, and when the part is cut out from the fabric, it is partially formed with multiple structures. In at least some of the areas formed, the at least some layers are cut while maintaining connection with the remaining layers, and the some layers are extended with respect to the remaining layers, A method characterized in that it is the final part for assembly into a fabric product. Forming a fabric with a jacquard structure on a substantially entire surface of the predetermined length portion of the fabric, in which a number of substantially closed areas distributed along a contour line, which are parts of a fabric product, are distributed; At the time of forming the fabric, at least a part of each of the above-mentioned areas is composed of at least a part of the multiple structure, and at the time of cutting out from the fabric to each part, it is partially formed of the multiple structure. In at least some of the areas, a part of the multi-tissue is cut while maintaining the connection with the remaining layers, and the parts are formed by extending the partial layers with respect to the remaining layers. A sewing method characterized in that a cloth product is obtained by sewing parts obtained by cutting out from a contour.

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