WO2021152177A1

WO2021152177A1 - Textile fabric for producing a garment and garment made therefrom

Info

Publication number: WO2021152177A1
Application number: PCT/EP2021/052324
Authority: WO
Inventors: Walter KIKELJ; Marco LINDNER
Original assignee: Getzner Textil Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date: 2020-01-30
Filing date: 2021-02-01
Publication date: 2021-08-05
Also published as: EP4097280A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a textile fabric (1) having a first and a second surface (2, 2') for producing a garment (3) in a predefined size, wherein a cutting pattern (4) with parts (4) for tailoring the garment (3) is visually identifiable on one of the surfaces (2, 2'). According to the invention, in the production process, on account of the weaving of the warp and weft threads (6, 7), markings (8) are formed on one of these surfaces (2, 2') by a change in colour or pattern (9), said markings (8) indicating cutting and/or stitching lines (10, 11) for the individual parts (4) of the cutting pattern (4). The cutting pattern (4) outlined in this way differs from the dimensions of the subsequent garment (3) by less than 3% and less than 1 cm both in the direction of the warp threads (6) and in the direction of the weft threads (7). The invention also relates to a garment (3) produced from such a fabric (1).

Description

TEXTILE FABRIC FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A PIECE OF CLOTHING AND ITEMS FROM THEM

Technical area

The invention relates to a textile fabric with a first and a second surface for producing an item of clothing in a predetermined body size, for example an item of sports clothing, a pattern with several parts for tailoring the item of clothing being optically recognizable on one of the surfaces. The garment is created by cutting and sewing the pieces together so that each of the pieces has one of its surfaces facing the body when worn and the opposite surface facing away from the body. The invention also relates to such a garment.

State of the art

Textile fabrics, also called woven fabric or simply called fabric here, are widespread in a wide variety of variants and are ideal for tailoring items of clothing in given body sizes.

To manufacture an item of clothing, a suitable material is selected, the individual, cut-out parts of a selected pattern are placed on it and their contours are traced. The fabric is then cut along the contours or at a seam spacing therefrom and the parts thus obtained are sewn together. This method is very old and has proven itself to this day. However, the effort involved in cutting out the patterns, transferring their contours to the fabric and cutting them out in order to get the cut pieces of fabric is relatively great. Therefore, garments are mainly made in low-wage countries. EP 1091029 also discloses tubular garments which are made in a textile with double walls with laterally connected edges, the body of a wearer being located between the two surfaces of the original textile. The disadvantage of such items of clothing is the low flexibility of the cutting pattern between the front and back of the item of clothing.

Presentation of the invention

It is the object of the present invention to describe a textile fabric specified at the beginning, which is produced in an alternative manner, as well as to show new possibilities of this fabric. It is a further object of the invention to provide the fabric with additional properties, by means of which later process steps in the production of an item of clothing can be saved.

Another object is to describe a garment made from such a fabric. In addition, this item of clothing should also have additional, improved properties.

The tasks are solved by the features of the independent patent claims of a respective term category. Further advantageous designs are described in the subclaims.

According to the invention, due to the weaving of the warp and weft threads in the manufacturing process on the surface on which the parts of the pattern are visually recognizable, markings are formed by color or pattern changes in a textile fabric mentioned at the beginning, which cutting and / or seam lines of the individual Mark parts of the pattern. The pattern shown in this way deviates from the specified dimensions of the later item of clothing both in the direction of the warp and the weft threads by less than 3% and less than 1 cm. Fabrics produced in this way can be cut immediately along the visible pattern changes without having to create a pattern, cut it out and transfer its contours to the fabric. The pieces obtained in this way can be cut out and sewn together in a conventional manner to tailor items of clothing in the desired sizes.

Although the production of such a fabric seems technically simple, patterns for garments in given garment sizes are not woven into fabrics because the effort is very great. In addition, there is a lack of flexibility in production. Even before the fabric is manufactured, it must be determined how many items of clothing in which clothing sizes are to be made for men and women. If a part cannot be used later, for example because it was cut or because it contains a weaving defect, a replacement part cannot simply be cut. The entire item of clothing becomes scrap, and a finished item is then missing from the collection. Another problem is dimensional accuracy. After weaving, the fabrics are dyed and go through further chemical processes in which their mass changes in the warp and weft directions. For these reasons, those skilled in the art would conventionally copy the contours of the cutting patterns onto the fabric. It turns out, however, that the fabric according to the invention offers further advantages.

Since it is already known during the production of a fabric where the individual parts of the fabric will later be in the garment, further optical and functional weave structures can also be created at predetermined locations without additional effort being necessary. In this way, logos or lettering can be woven into the fabric at designated points that do not have to be printed or sewn on later. This not only saves additional work, but also has the following advantages: The logos or lettering do not wash out, cannot peel off due to aging, do not stiffen the underlying fabric and do not cause pinholes. When using waterproof Woven fabrics, as they are preferably used for outdoor garments, would reduce the water resistance through needle pricks and thus weaken the fabric, which can thus be prevented. The logos and patterns can also be fully integrated into the design of the garment. In addition, cavities, such as pockets, can be produced in the fabric at the intended locations during weaving, which can be used for different purposes. The cavities or pockets are each arranged between the inside and the outside of the later item of clothing. Such pockets, if they are accessible from one side of the fabric, do not cause a seam or a visible contour on the other side of the fabric. The garments made from such parts are novel in terms of their functions and appearance. The seams can be designed in such a way that their fabric edges lie completely within the cavities and no seam protrudes on either side, although the fabric itself, apart from the locations of the cavities, is single-ply. Zippers can also be sewn in without a visible seam, which means that items of clothing such as jackets can be created that can be worn on both sides without the seams being visible or protruding, even though the jacket has a single layer. Inlay parts such as protectors can also be inserted into such cavities without the need to sew pockets and without the seams being visible. The cavities can also be used to create pockets integrated into the garments for storing personal items.

Brief description of the drawings

The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to the drawings. They show the fabric according to the invention and other aspects thereof. Show it:

1 shows a schematic representation of a fabric according to the invention as

Bales of fabric;

Fig. 2 is a schematic partial sectional view of a fabric with a

Cavity; 3 shows a schematic representation of a plan view of the tissue with a cavity designed as a pocket; 4 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a part cut out of the fabric, a) with an integrated pocket for personal use; b) with an integrated pocket with inserts;

5 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric cut on a cutting line with a cut open cavity in the seam area, with two fabric edges; 6 shows a perspective illustration of a tissue cut along a cutting line with a channel in the seam area;

FIG. 7 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric according to FIG. 5, to which a connecting part has been sewn between its two fabric edges; FIG. FIG. 8 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric according to FIG. 6, to which a connecting part has been sewn, encased by its channel;

9 shows a view of an item of clothing according to the invention.

1 shows a roll of fabric with the textile fabric 1 according to the invention. This fabric 1 comprises a first and a second surface 2, 2 'and is suitable for producing an item of clothing 3 of a given body size. In the present case, an item of sportswear, in particular a motorcycle jacket, can be produced therefrom. On one of the surfaces 2, 2 ', here on the upper one, a pattern 4 with several parts 4 for tailoring the item of clothing 3 can be seen optically. A warp thread 6 and a weft thread 7 are also shown schematically on the side. The item of clothing 3, here a sportswear jacket, is created by cutting out and sewing the individual parts 4 together. Each of the parts 4 is with one of its surfaces, 2 respectively. 2 ', when worn facing the body and with the opposite surface 2', respectively. 2 of this part 4 facing away from the body.

According to the invention, due to the weaving of the warp and weft threads 6, 7, markings 8 are formed by color or pattern changes 9 during the manufacturing process on at least one of these surfaces 2, 2 ', which cutting and / or seam lines 10, 11 of the individual parts of the pattern 4 mark. The woven pattern 4 shown in this way deviates from the specified dimensions of the later item of clothing 3 both in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 by less than 3% and less than 1 cm, even if the fabric 1 is over the entire surface and in both directions is elastic.

The dimensional accuracy is very important so that the parts 4 can later be made into the desired item of clothing 3. All parts 4 must therefore have the appropriate dimensions for each size of women and men. Depending on the type of fabric 1, the mass during weaving does not yet correspond to the specifications, since the fabric 1 can still shrink in the following processes after weaving. It is therefore necessary to recalculate the mass and to regularly check the final mass of the finished fabrics 1.

As a result of the color or pattern changes 9, either only the cutting lines 10 or the seam lines 11 can be optically recognizable, or both, as shown in FIG. 1. It makes sense to dispense with the marking 8 of the seam line 11 if it may not be seen later in the garment. It is also possible to show the seam line only on the later inner line. Accordingly, the markings for cutting lines 10 and seam lines 11 can also be woven into different surfaces 2, 2 '. The fabric 1 is preferably elastic over the entire surface in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7, since this is required for many sports suits. Elastic fabrics 1, however, have a different mass during production, that is to say during weaving. As soon as the fabric 1 is removed from the loom, it pulls together in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 and loses its original mass. Subsequently Further processes follow, which can also cause a change in the mass until the tissue 1 is fixed. In the case of fully elastic fabrics 1, the dimensions of the parts 4 of a pattern 4 must be calculated back so that the final dimensions match the specifications, whereby the deviation must not exceed 3% and 1 cm from the dimensions of the later item of clothing 3. Producing elastic fabrics 1 therefore requires greater know-how in terms of dimensioning and weaving. It has proven to be helpful to weave in control measuring rods 5 in the directions of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 in order to be able to control and adjust the dimensional accuracy of the finished fabric 1 during fixation. This ensures that items of clothing 3 made therefrom correspond to the respective specified dimensions.

In particular, parts 4 produced in this way have the advantage that it is known even before weaving where a certain point in the fabric 1 will later be located in the garment 3. It is therefore possible to directly weave additional patterns or color changes 9 adapted to the pattern 4 into the fabric 1, as a result of which logos, texts or graphic images 12 are created at predefined locations on the later, finished item of clothing 3. In addition, it is possible in this way to identify functional locations, such as locations for sewing on buttons, buttonholes or other cutting lines along which later cuts must be made, with woven-in markings 8. All of this inevitably means that the cutting patterns 4 are woven into the fabric 1 at the same time.

The fabric 1 according to the invention is produced in a single layer and has at least partially an area 13 with a single fabric layer 15 within the pattern 4. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, however, cavities 14 adapted to the cutting pattern 4 are arranged or respectively at one or more intended locations of the fabric 1. woven in. These were created during weaving between the two surfaces 2, 2 ', in that two warp and weft threads 6, 7 that are not connected to one another over a surface area, separate two from one another, parallel to one another extending layers of fabric 15 are formed in the fabric 1. Although the cavities 14 are at least 3-5 square centimeters in size, they are generally larger, for example the size of a hand, as large as a pocket for inserting something, or in the shape of a channel. Each part 4 comprises at least one single-layer area 13 in a central area within the part 4, away from the cutting or seam lines 10,

11, which comprises only a single layer of fabric 15. This prevents, for example, that the part 4 can be turned inside out, but also that, as mentioned in the context of the prior art, can be slipped into or through a cavity for tightening 14. 2 shows such a cavity 14, which is cut at the front, between two layers of material 15, the area around the cavity 14 being designed as a single-layer area 13. The dashed line in FIG. 2 and in other figures represents the dividing line between the single-layer area 13 and the cavity 14, which is not visible in the tissue. A marking 8 for a further cutting line 10 is preferably woven into a fabric 1 on a fabric layer 15 of a cavity 14. Such a marking 8 is shown on a pocket 17 in FIG. 3. The cutting along this marking 8 creates an opening 16 to the pocket 17, to which a zip fastener or another fastener can be attached. However, it has also proven to be expedient to provide the surrounding area of the opening 16 only with a welding area 25 which holds the tissue 1 together and prevents fraying at the cutting line 10. The open cut edge 20 does not have to be further processed, for example sewn. In particular, if it is an inside pocket, this has the advantage that nothing is visible from the outside, and no zipper is pushed through, even if the area of the pocket is close to the body.

Such markings 8 can also be used to mark functional locations for further processing steps. For example, additional cuts can be made in areas of, for example, channel-shaped or ring-shaped cavities 14 free fabric edges 20 are created in the middle of the fabric 1, on which one side of the fabric 1, ie on one of the surfaces 2, 2 ', further parts 4 or a connecting part 23 can be sewn without a seam 21 on the other side of the surface 2 'To generate 2.

FIGS. 4 a and 4 b show examples of cut-out parts 4, each of which includes a cavity 14. In Fig. 4a, for example, the front part of a jacket is shown, in Fig. 4b a part of a sleeve. In these examples, one of the cavities 14 is designed and arranged in the pattern 4 in such a way that it can be used in the later item of clothing 3, as shown in FIG. 9, after the configuration of a corresponding opening 16 as a pocket 17 integrated in the item of clothing 3. The openings 16 can be created by cutting open one of the fabric layers 15. The pocket 17 in Fig. 4a represents a breast pocket and is suitable for personal use. It can be made accessible either from the inside or the outside. The pocket in FIG. 4 b is arranged on the elbow and is suitable as a pocket 17 for inserting an insert 18. In FIG. 4b, a protector 18 is inserted into the pocket 17. What is remarkable about these pockets 17 is that their contours are not visible, and there are also no seams that could be visible from the outside. In addition, no pockets have to be sewn on, which in turn saves effort. In the case of garments 3 produced in this way, considerable costs can therefore be saved.

As an alternative to the pockets 17, which are created between the double-layer fabric layers 15 by cutting open a cavity 14, pockets 17 can be placed on one side, as described above, by sewing them to a cut fabric layer 15 of a cavity 14 that results in a free fabric edge 20 . In such pockets 17, for example, bulky protectors 18 can be used.

In preferred configurations, also shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, the tissue 1 has a cavity 14 configured as a channel along a cutting line 10 of a part 4. In FIG. 5, the cavity 14 is cut open at the cutting line 10 and forms two fabric edges 20 with open ends, to which two seams 21 can be attached. In FIG. 6, however, the cavity 14 is designed as a closed channel 22 in that a little of a single-layer area 13 is retained between the cutting line 10 and the cavity 14 in order to keep the channel 22 closed.

In FIG. 7, a further part 4, for example a connection part 23 or a zipper 24, is inserted between the two fabric edges 20 as described in FIG. 5 and sewn to them in such a way that only one seam 21 is visible on both surfaces 2, 2 ′ is. In the following, this is referred to as a hem 26 that is clean on both sides, since no hem protrudes on either side. Both sides look the same. For this purpose, the two ends of the fabric edges 20 are folded inwards, the connecting part 23, 24 is pushed in between and the whole is connected with a seam 21.

FIG. 8 shows a further possibility for producing such a hem 26 which is clean on both sides. For this purpose, a part 4 with a channel 22 in the hem area, as described in FIG. 6, is sewn to a connection part 23, 24 in that the channel 22 is frontally compressed and grips on both sides over a fabric edge 20 of the connection part 23, 24. This is then sewn together with a seam 21. This seam 21 also forms a hem 26 which is clean on both sides and which looks the same from both surfaces 2, 2 '; there is no visible hem. Handling is somewhat easier here because there are no open fabric edges in the area of the channel 22 that could slip away during sewing. In both variants according to FIGS. 7 and 8, clean hems 26 are created on both sides. In both exemplary embodiments, the fabric 1 adjoining the seams 26 is each configured as a single-layer area (13).

In this way it is possible to sew a connecting part 23, 24 onto a part 4, with clean hems 26 being produced on both sides. This makes it possible to produce a single-ply garment 3, as shown in FIG. 9, in such a way that it can be worn on both sides, with clean hems 26 being visible on both sides on the outside. Even if the item of clothing 3 is not rotated, but always worn on the same side, this technique of connecting the various parts 4 makes it more valuable. For example, the lining of a jacket can be dispensed with without protruding seams becoming visible on the inside of the jacket. It is also very much appreciated in the sleeves and in the shoulder and collar area if no protruding hems can be felt.

From such parts 4 of a pattern, for example, items of clothing 3 such as suits for motorcycling with or without protectors 18, but also work clothing with or without cut protection inserts for working with a chainsaw, or protective clothing for security personnel can be made.

The fabric 1 according to the invention is therefore suitable for a wide variety of applications. Although the effort initially appears to be great to weave complete cutting patterns 4 into a fabric 1, this results in undreamt-of possibilities for introducing further functions into the fabric 1, which are directly and directly linked to the respective cutting pattern 4. This creates garments 3 which also make an impeccable impression from the inside, whereby the manufacture and attachment of an inner lining can be saved. Inscriptions and logos 12 can already be attached during weaving, which saves further steps through application or printing. Pockets 17 can also be integrated without even a single seam having to be attached. Pockets 17 placed on one side can also be attached to free fabric edges 20 without a seam being visible from the outside.

Such items of clothing 3, as shown in FIG. 9, are suitable, for example, for athletes as sports, two-wheeler, motorcycle, outdoor or hiking clothing, or as protective clothing for security personnel. They are made of a single-layer fabric 1, which can partially have two layers of fabric 15 and which has an integrated, woven-in pattern 4 with the dimensions of a given clothing size. In addition, the fabric 1 can be elastic over the entire surface in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7.

Preferred items of clothing 3 have cavities 14 which are designed as integrated pockets 17 for personal use or as pockets 17 which are provided with insert parts 18, for example protectors. The openings 16 of the Pockets 17 can be sewn, sealed with a welding surface 25 or provided with a zipper 24.

In particular, with the invention described here, items of clothing 3 can be produced from single-layer fabric 1, which include seams 21 with a clean hem 26 on both sides and therefore do not protrude onto any surface 2, 2 '. Therefore, both sides of the garment 3 could be worn to the outside, respectively. no lining is required so that the item of clothing 3 also looks clean on the inside.

List of reference symbols

1 textile fabric

2 2 'surfaces

3 garment 4 sewing patterns, part of a sewing pattern

5 control scale

6 warp threads

7 weft thread

8 Marking, marking for a functional point 9 Change of color or pattern

10 cutting line

11 seam line

12 logo, text, illustration

13 Single-layer area of the tissue 14 cavity

15 layer of fabric

16 opening

17 bag

18 Insert, protector 19 Seam area for a hem

20 Fabric edge, cut edge, edge of a connector

21 seam

22 channel for connecting part such as zipper or for inlay tape

23 connector 24 zipper

25 welding surface

26 clean hem on both sides

Claims

1. Textile fabric (1) with a first and a second surface (2, 2 ') for the production of an item of clothing (3) in a predetermined body size, for example an item of sportswear, with a pattern (4) with several parts (4) for tailoring of the garment (3) on one of the

Surfaces (2, 2 ') is optically recognizable, the garment (3) can be created by cutting out and sewing the parts (4) so that each of the parts (4) with one of its surfaces (2, 2') when worn Body facing and aligned with the opposite surface (2 ', 2) facing away from the body, characterized in that the

Manufacturing process based on the weaving of the warp and weft threads (6, 7) on at least one of the surfaces (2, 2 ') markings (8) are formed by color or pattern changes (9) which cut and / or seam lines (10 , 11) of each part (4) feature of the pattern (4), wherein the pattern as shown (4) of the later of the customer's requirements

Garment (3) deviates both in the direction of the warp and the weft threads (6, 7) by less than 3% and less than 1 cm.

2. Fabric (1) according to claim 1, characterized in that both the cutting lines (10) and the seam lines (11) are optically recognizable.

3. Fabric (1) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is elastic over the entire surface in the direction of the warp and weft threads (6, 7).

4. fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that additional, the pattern (4) adapted pattern or color change (9) are woven directly, the logos, texts or at predefined points of the later, finished item of clothing (3) graphic

Show images (12) or mark markings (8) for functional points or for further processing steps.

5. fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at one or more points provided Pattern (4) adapted cavities (14) are arranged, which were created during weaving between the two surfaces (2, 2 ') by two separate, parallel to each other running warp and weft threads (6, 7) that are not connected to each other Fabric layers (15) are formed, each of the cavities (14) being arranged between the inside and the outside of the later item of clothing (3).

6. Fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in central areas within the parts (4), far from the cutting or seam lines (10, 11), at least partially a single-layer area (13) is configured.

7. fabric (1) according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that one of the cavities (14) is designed and arranged in the cutting pattern (4) so that it is in the later garment (3) according to the design of a corresponding opening (16) as in the garment (3) integrated pocket (17) for personal use or for inserting an insert (18), for example a protector, can be used.

8. fabric (1) according to one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that one of the cavities (14) is designed as a channel (22) along a cutting line (10) of one of the parts (4) and the cavity (14), when the part (4) is cut out, there forms two fabric edges (20) to which two seams (21) can be attached or to which a connecting part (23), for example a zipper (24) or another part (4), can be sewn by a seam (21) to a hem (26) that is clean on both sides.

9. Fabric (1) according to one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that one of the cavities (14) is designed as a channel (22) near a cut edge (10) of one of the parts (4) and between the cavity (14) and the cutting line (10) a single-layer area (13) is retained, which keeps the channel (22) closed, even if the part (4) is cut out, wherein a connecting part (23), for example a zipper (24) or another Part (4), through a Seam (21) can be sewn on to a hem (26) that is clean on both sides, in that the channel (22), frontally compressed, grips on both sides over the fabric edge (20) of the connecting part (23).

10. Fabric (1) according to one of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that a marking (8) on the corresponding surface (2) for a further cutting line (10) is woven into a fabric layer (15) of a cavity (14) which, when cut along this, creates an additional free fabric edge (20) in the middle of the fabric (1) on this surface (2, 2 '), to which further parts (4) or a connecting part (23) can be sewn, without thereby generating a seam (21) on the other surface (2 ', 2).

11. Garment (3), preferably sportswear, two-wheeled clothing,

Motorcycle clothing, outdoor clothing and / or hiking clothing, made from a fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is made according to the pattern (4) and corresponds to the dimensions of a given clothing size, with several

Parts (4) are cut out of the fabric (1) and sewn together in such a way that each of the parts (4) faces the body with one of its surfaces (2, 2 ') when worn and the opposite surface (2', 2) the Body facing away.

12. Garment according to claim 11, characterized in that it is in

Direction of the warp and weft threads (6, 7) is elastic over the entire surface.

13. Garment according to claim 11 or 12 with reference to claim 7, characterized in that it is equipped with one or more cavities (14) in which insert parts (18), for example protectors, are introduced.

14. Garment according to one of claims 11 to 13 with reference to claim 7, characterized in that the opening (16) of the pocket (17) is sewn, sealed with a welding surface (25) or provided with a zipper (24).

15. Garment according to one of claims 11 to 14 with reference to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that it has a seam (21) to a zipper (24) or to a connecting part (23), which leads to a hem which is clean on both sides ( 26) is sewn on.

16. Garment according to one of claims 11 to 15, characterized in that it can be worn on both sides and only clean hems (26) are always visible, regardless of which of the surfaces (2, 2 ') is worn visible to the outside.