JP4247465B2 - Fabric and sewing method - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a cloth and a sewing method, and is suitable for making a cloth product such as clothing by cutting out a part from the cloth and sewing the part.
[0002]
[Definition]
In this invention, the fabric means a woven fabric or a knitted fabric (including both warp knitting and weft knitting including a circular knitting), and the formation means a woven fabric or a knitted fabric by weaving or knitting from a yarn. It means organizing as.
[0003]
In the present invention, the jacquard structure refers to a woven or knitted structure of a pattern obtained on the surface of the fabric over a wide range of the fabric such as the entire width.
[0004]
In the present invention, forming means that a large pattern covering the entire width of the woven fabric is woven by the jacquard structure, or such a large pattern is knitted on the knitted fabric by the jacquard structure.
[0005]
[Prior art]
When manufacturing clothing, the body of the clothing, parts such as sleeves and collars are cut out from a fabric such as woven fabric or knitted fabric, and the cut out baht is sewn to finish the clothing. To cut out the parts, the pattern is applied to the woven or knitted fabric, and a cutting line is added by a marking tool such as a chaco pen, and a cutting line is added to the cutting line and cutting is performed. Such manual cutting is still widely performed for custom-made clothes, but since it is inefficient, computer cutting is the mainstream for mass-produced products. In the case of computer cutting, pattern data is stored in a memory, the stored pattern data is read and a cut line is calculated in consideration of the allowance, and cutting is performed by a laser cutting device or the like using this cut line (Patent Document) 1).
[0006]
[Patent Document 1]
JP 7-26409 A [Problems to be Solved by the Invention]
In the conventional technology, each part is cut out by marking after making it into woven or knitted fabric, so the pattern layout between the parts must be sewn as it is, and the pattern connection between the bahts is unnatural. It was easy to become. It can be said that it is craftsmanship to sew without causing such unnaturalness, but there is a limit depending on the pattern. Although the cutting itself is automated by using computer cutting, the pattern matching between the parts has been left behind. In view of such problems, an object of the present invention is to enable weaving and knitting on the assumption of the shape of a garment after sewing.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
According to invention of Claim 1, it is the fabric formed in a jacquard structure | tissue , Comprising: It is along the outline which becomes parts of a cloth product in the substantially whole surface in the site | part of the predetermined length of the said fabric. A large number of substantially closed areas are distributed, and each of the areas includes a substantially strip-shaped seam portion on the outermost periphery along the contour line, and the seam portion is defined as a surrounding part. There is provided a fabric characterized in that it is formed in a structure that can be distinguished in appearance by a floating structure of colored yarns .
[0008]
The operation and effect of the invention of claim 1 will be described. Virtually all parts of the cloth product are distributed on the surface of the cloth formed by the jacquard structure, and each part is cut out and sewn from the cloth. It can be a product. Since the fabric is formed with a jacquard structure, it is possible to form a large pattern that covers the entire width of the fabric, and the contour lines of parts of the fabric product can be formed as a pattern. In the case of a woven fabric, warp yarns can be independently controlled over the entire width by jacquard, and a large pattern covering the entire woven width can be formed by weaving. In the case of knitted fabrics, individual control of the heel (for warp knitting) and knitting needles (for horizontal or circular knitting) is possible with jacquard, and this also allows knitting of large patterns covering the entire width. is there. In addition, since the jacquard structure can be woven or knitted into an arbitrary structure (pattern) at any position on the fabric, it is possible to squeeze between parts when sewed from the woven or knitted fabric after cutting. The structure of each part, including the seam allowance, can be determined with an unlimited degree of freedom so that the patterns in the can be connected. Further, since the woven structure can be set independently and arbitrarily in each part, the functionality of the fabric product can be enhanced to the limit.
[0010]
In addition , it has a substantially band-shaped seam allowance portion along the contour line of the part, and cut marks and alignment marks can be formed on this seam allowance portion by weaving or knitting according to the jacquard structure. It is possible to easily cut and sew precision with the use of.
[0012]
Furthermore , since the seam allowance part is formed (woven or knitted) so as to be distinguished from the inner part in appearance, further simplification and precision of cutting and sewing can be realized.
[0013]
According to the second aspect of the present invention, each of the fabrics is formed of a jacquard structure, and substantially all the parts of the garment are formed on substantially the entire surface of the predetermined length portion of the fabric. A number of substantially closed areas are distributed along the contour line, and each of the areas has a substantially belt-shaped seam portion on the outermost periphery along the contour line, and the seam portion is There is provided a fabric characterized in that it is formed with a structure that can be distinguished from the surrounding portion by the floating structure of the colored yarn .
[0014]
The operation and effect of the invention of claim 2 will be described. In addition to the operation and effect of claim 1, substantially all the parts of the garment can be contained in one piece of cloth, and the garment can be made by cutting and sewing.
[0015]
According to the invention described in claim 3 , in the invention described in claim 1 or 2, the cloth is characterized in that a positioning mark for sewing with an adjacent part is formed as a tissue in the seam allowance portion. Is provided.
[0016]
The operation and effect of the invention of claim 3 will be described. The alignment mark is formed as a woven or knitted structure at the seam allowance. Therefore, the alignment mark can be accurately positioned, which can further contribute to simplification and refinement of sewing after cutting into parts.
[0017]
According to the fourth aspect of the present invention, a large number of substantially closed areas along the contour line, which become parts of the fabric product, are distributed over substantially the entire surface of the predetermined length portion of the fabric. Fabric is formed with a jacquard structure, and when forming, a substantially band-shaped seam allowance is formed on the outermost peripheral portion along the contour line in each of the above areas, and the inside is distinguished from the inside by a floating structure of colored yarn After forming the fabric, it is cut into each part leaving the seam allowance along the contour line, and a cloth product is obtained by sewing between the cut parts at the seam allowance. A sewing method characterized by the above is provided.
[0018]
The operation and effect of the invention of claim 4 will be described. Each part of the cloth product is formed on the cloth with a structure that allows the portion of the seam allowance along the outline to be visually distinguished, and the cloth product is cut into each part after cutting. By performing the sewing, it is possible to easily, reliably and precisely carry out the process from the formation of the cloth to the cutting and sewing.
[0019]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
1 to 3 show a woven fabric as an embodiment of the present invention, which is woven by a loom equipped with a jacquard as a warp opening device. In this embodiment, for example, a jacquard having a large number of units exceeding 10,000 (for example, STAUBLI model number LX3200) is used. Therefore, independent opening control for each warp thread in the entire woven width. Can be made. Of course, it is possible to use a jacquard with a smaller number as needed.
[0020]
1 to 3 show a portion of the woven fabric 10 having a predetermined length, and the woven fabric 10 is arranged so that areas that become parts of clothing are distributed when cut into the predetermined length of the woven fabric. In this embodiment, substantially all parts of the garment (jacket in this embodiment) can be cut out from the portion of the woven fabric having the predetermined length. Listing the parts obtained by cutting along each contour the areas distributed on the fabric 10:
12: right pocket 14: left pocket 16: right cuff 18: left cuff 20: ground collar 22: front collar 24: right tab 26: left tab 28: waist belt 30: inner sleeve left 32: outer sleeve left 34: outer sleeve Right 36: Inner sleeve right 38: Front yoke right 40: Front yoke left 42: Front center body left 44: Front center body left 46: Front side body left 48: Front side body right 50: Front center body right 52: Front center Body right 54: Flap right 56: Flap left 58: Rear yoke 60: Rear left side body 62: Rear center body 62: Rear right side body [0021]
Next, regarding the structure of the area that is distributed on the woven fabric and becomes a part of the clothing when separated, the areas 60, 62, and 64 that become the back left side body, the back center body, and the back right side body are given as examples. explain. In FIG. 4, which is a partially enlarged view of FIG. 3, the outermost belt-like portions 60A, 62A, and 64A along the closed contours in the areas 60, 62, and 64 are portions that become stitch allowances during sewing. The seam allowance portions 60A, 62A, and 64A can be woven in a separate structure so as to form an apparent area from the surrounding (inner and outer) portions. For example, a colored thread is used for the weft thread, and it can be visualized by floating as long as the seam allowance portions 60A, 62A, 64A. As can be seen from FIG. 3, on the fabric structure, the contour lines of the areas 60, 62, and 64 are patterns in which one repeat occupies substantially the entire width of the woven fabric, and the warp yarns can be opened independently at substantially the entire woven width. It is essential for weaving, and the jacquard as the opening device in this embodiment has a number of more than 10,000 that allows independent opening of the warp at the full width of the woven fabric as described above. is there. In addition, it is also possible to control two warp yarns with one fishing port by adopting a symmetrical pattern arrangement in the warp direction. In this case, the number of jacquard can be halved. The portion inside the seams 60A, 62A, and 64A in the areas 60, 62, and 64 becomes the back left side body, the back center body, and the back right side body after sewing on the jacket, and is woven by an appropriate structure (eg, satin) By adopting jacquard, a pattern of any size can be woven into any part, and a pattern according to the size and the manufacturer's logo (trademark) is also woven as an organization (pattern) by independent opening control of warp be able to. In FIG. 3, a portion 58B of the rear yoke area 58 is a portion in which a character display "COP.A" is woven as a woven structure. Referring to FIG. 4 again, if the structure of the seam allowance portions 60A, 62A, and 64A is a single structure, the seam allowance is too thick and may hinder the sewing operation (the needle of the sewing machine cannot pass). Therefore, it is optional to make the seam allowance portions 60A, 62A, 64A into a double or triple woven structure, cut the layer on one side at the time of sewing, and make the sewing work smooth. Alignment mark marks 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, and 82 are provided on the seam allowance portions 60A, 62A, and 64A so that they can be distinguished from each other by using colored yarn as a woven structure. By adopting jacquard, each warp can be opened independently, so that the desired alignment marks 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82 are formed as a woven structure in the woven fabric. be able to. Cutting of each part from the woven fabric, for example, the back left side body, the back center body, and the back right side body is performed while leaving the seam allowance portions 60A, 62A, and 64A in the areas 60, 62, and 64, respectively. By adopting jacquard covering the entire weaving width, the seam allowances 60A, 62A, 64A can be formed in a structure that can be clearly distinguished from the surroundings, and can be cut accurately after weaving . Sewing is performed after the cutting. By aligning the alignment marks at the time of sewing, the sewing between the parts can be performed easily and with high accuracy. For example, in the example of FIG. 4, the sewing between the rear left side body 60 and the rear center body 62 is performed by the seam allowance portions 60A and 62A. At this time, the sewing is performed so that the alignment marks 72 and 74 coincide with each other. Thus, pattern matching between the rear left side body 60 and the rear center body 62 can be performed beautifully. Similarly, sewing between the rear center body 62 and the rear right side body 64 is performed by the seam allowance portions 62A and 64A. At this time, the rear center body 62 is sewn so that the alignment marks 78 and 80 are aligned. And the pattern matching between the rear right side body 64 can be performed cleanly and easily. In FIG. 4, the lines 60-1, 62-1, 64-1 inside the belt-shaped seam allowances 60A, 62A, 64A indicate the patterns of the back left side body, the back center body, and the back right side body, respectively. Show.
[0022]
The contours of the rear left side body, rear center body, and rear right side body as parts for the areas 60, 62, and 64 that become the rear left side body, rear center body, and rear right side body when cut out as described above Although it is description about the structure | tissue of the seam allowance parts 60A, 62A, and 64A provided in the outermost periphery part of the outer periphery, the seam allowance part of the outer periphery along a contour line also about the areas 12-58 of the woven fabric used as other clothing parts 12A, 14A, 16A, 18A, 20A, 22A, 24A, 26A, 28A, 30A, 32A, 34A, 36A, 38A, 40A, 42A, 44A, 46A, 48A, 50A, 52A, 58A looks like other parts It is woven in a distinguishable structure, and the alignment marks similar to the alignment marks 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82 described in FIG. Is woven into. The use of the alignment mark, combined with the use of the jacquard structure, can contribute to the complete connection of the patterns between the parts during sewing. For example, in FIG. 5, assuming that the area 160 that becomes the rear left side body after cutting and the area 162 that becomes the rear center body after cutting are straddled by the rhombus-shaped portions A1 and A2, the seam allowance 160A of the area 160 The positions of the patterns A1 and A2 in the areas 160 and 162 are set so that the pattern A1 and the pattern A2 after sewing are connected when the mark 172 provided on the mark 172 and the mark 174 provided on the seam allowance 162A of the area 162 match. ing. Therefore, the pattern matching between the body parts is completed by matching the marks 172 and 174 when the body parts are sewn at the seams 160A and 162A.
[0023]
In the woven fabric according to the present invention, independent opening control of warp yarn is possible over substantially the entire woven width by jacquard, and a very diverse organization and pattern can be selected, and the functionality of clothing is enhanced to the maximum. It is possible to mix different types of warp and / or weft yarns at the same time, or make multiple body or bag weaves and collars, inject air, cotton, etc. By further combining the appearance of a quilt-like effect, a further improvement in functionality can be realized.
[0024]
In the present invention, various operations such as setting of the area according to each part of the clothing on the woven fabric and setting of the tissue in each area are performed on the screen in commercially available computer software (for example, apparel CAD). be able to. In pattern making by apparel CAD, drawing can be performed by an operation on the screen, the drawn pattern can be assigned to an arbitrary part of the woven fabric, and an arbitrary woven structure can be designated for each part. And recently, software that seamlessly connects the output data of apparel CAD to Jacquard pattern punching device is also provided, and pattern data created by apparel CAD is converted to input data to the pattern punching device, It is possible to automatically pierce the crest. Also in this invention, by utilizing such means, distribution of areas corresponding to each part of clothing and setting of organization in each area are performed by operation on the screen. Weaving can be performed by setting to.
[0025]
In the above embodiment, the present invention is directed to the woven fabric provided with the areas that become the parts of the jacket by cutting out, but the idea of the present invention is not limited to clothing, but also from the back to shoes and other fabric products. The same can be applied.
[0026]
In the above embodiment, by using the jacquard structure in the woven fabric and individually controlling the opening of the warp in a wide range such as the entire width of the woven fabric, the parts of the fabric product can be distinguished from each other in terms of appearance. This is an explanation of a case where a garment is made by weaving, cutting while leaving a seam allowance, and sewing. However, the present invention can be implemented not only in woven fabrics but also in knitted fabrics. For example, in the case of warp knitting, it is known that there is a heel (so-called jacquard heel) that controls the lateral movement of each warp in a wide knitting width such as the full width. Thus, a large organization over a wide range such as the entire width of the knitted fabric is possible. Therefore, even in warp knitting using the jacquard structure, each part of the garment can be knitted so that the seam allowance portion along the contour line can be visually distinguished. It is cut as parts so that it remains, and the cut parts can be sewn at the seam allowance to make clothing, and by adopting a jacquard structure, each part can be connected smoothly after sewing. Organizations and alignment marks can be set in advance, and with the adoption of a jacquard organization, any pattern can be formed on each baht. Design and functionality are the same as for woven fabrics. Can be maximized.
[0027]
In addition, a knitting machine equipped with a jacquard mechanism is also known for weft knitting and circular knitting. In this type of knitting machine, needle selection control is performed independently for each knitting needle with a wide knitting width such as the full width of the knitted fabric. As in the case of woven fabric and warp knitting, large-scale knitting that covers the entire width of the knitted fabric is possible. Therefore, even in the case of weft knitting and circular knitting, each part of the garment can be patterned together with the seam allowance part, and the part can be cut out by including the seam allowance by cutting, and then highly accurate sewing can be easily performed.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 shows the first part of one repeat of a woven fabric according to the present invention (a portion of a predetermined length of the woven fabric) in which the area to be the entire part of the jacket is distributed over the predetermined length portion. .
FIG. 2 shows a portion subsequent to FIG. 1 in the woven fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 3 shows a portion subsequent to FIG. 2 in the woven fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a partially enlarged view of FIG. 3;
FIG. 5 is a diagram schematically illustrating how pattern alignment between body parts using alignment marks in a seam allowance portion is performed during sewing.
[Explanation of symbols]
10 ... Woven cloth
12-64 ... The area of the woven fabric that becomes a part of clothing when cut off
12A ~ 64A ... seam allowance of each part
70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82… Alignment mark
160, 162… The area of the woven fabric that becomes the left side body and the back center body
160A, 162A… Sewing allowance
172, 174 ... Alignment mark
A1, A2 ... pattern part

Claims (6)

A fabric formed of a jacquard structure, and a plurality of substantially closed areas along a contour line, which are parts of a fabric product, are distributed over substantially the entire surface of a predetermined length of the fabric. Each of the areas includes a belt-shaped seam allowance portion at the outermost peripheral portion along the contour line, and the seam allowance portion can be distinguished from the surrounding portions by the floating structure of the colored yarn. A fabric characterized by being formed of a tissue. A fabric formed of a jacquard structure, which is substantially closed along each contour line, which is substantially the entire part of the garment, on substantially the entire surface of a predetermined length of the fabric. A large number of areas are distributed, and each of the areas has a belt-shaped seam allowance portion on the outermost peripheral portion along the contour line, and the seam allowance part is surrounded by a floating structure of colored yarn. A fabric characterized in that it is formed with a structure that can be distinguished in appearance. The fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein an alignment mark for sewing with an adjacent part in a seam allowance portion is formed as a tissue. Forming a fabric with a jacquard structure on a substantially entire surface of the predetermined length portion of the fabric, in which a number of substantially closed areas distributed along a contour line, which are parts of a fabric product, are distributed; When forming the tissue, a substantially band-shaped seam allowance portion is formed on the outermost peripheral portion along the contour line in each of the above areas with a structure that can be distinguished from the inside by a floating structure of colored yarn, A sewing method characterized by forming a fabric product by cutting into parts by leaving a seam allowance portion along the contour line after forming and sewing between the cut parts at the seam allowance portion.   5. The sewing method according to claim 4, wherein the fabric product is clothing.   6. The sewing method according to claim 5, wherein, prior to sewing of the seam allowance portion, the layer of the seam allowance portion composed of the multiple tissue is cut off to make it thin.

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