FR3117803A1 - Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, surfactant and ascorbic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, a surfactant and ascorbic acid The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid homopolymer, based on the total weight of the composition; at least one fatty phase; at least one surfactant selected from glycerol esters; and at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, surfactant and ascorbic acid

The present invention relates to the field of care and/or makeup for keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

By “ keratin materials ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant in particular the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or of the face, and more preferably of the face.

Skin aging results from the effects on the skin of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. During the aging process, an alteration in the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles resulting from slackening and loss of tissue elasticity.

On the other hand, intrinsic aging, which induces changes in the skin, causes in particular a slowdown in the renewal of skin cells, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue. and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, loss of vertical fibers from the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

It is known to introduce active ingredients into cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions with a view to combating the signs of ageing.

For example, it has been sought for a long time to formulate ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in various galenic forms, because of its numerous beneficial properties, in particular in large quantities, for example greater than 5% in weight.

In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and in particular of collagen, strengthens the defenses of the cutaneous tissue against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments the skin and has an anti-free radical function. Due to its properties, ascorbic acid is effective in combating the signs of skin aging, for example in improving the radiance of the complexion and reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles in the skin.

Unfortunately, these active ingredients are often unstable in an oxidizing medium and therefore very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, oxygen and water. This therefore results in a rapid degradation of these active ingredients when they are in contact with one of these parameters in particular, which goes against the desired effectiveness. In addition, it remains very difficult to implement them in large quantities, in particular greater than 5% by weight.

In order to remedy these problems, it has been envisaged to stabilize the active agents, and in particular vitamin C, by various means.

Among these, we can mention that consisting in creating a chemical association of ascorbic acid with, for example, gluconic acid or urocanic acid.

Another means has consisted in stabilizing vitamin C by physical methods by incorporating it, for example, in cyclodextrins, zeolites or even in liposomes.

It has also been proposed to make derivatives of vitamin C, more particularly in the form of phosphodiesters with vitamin E for example.

Another means of stabilization has been suggested, this consisting in chemically functionalising the enediol group of vitamin C by forming a phosphate or sulphate function or by forming an ether or ester function.

Furthermore, to reduce or delay the degradation of ascorbic acid in solution, document US 5,140,043 recommends stabilizing it by introducing it into hydroalcoholic solutions, formed of at least 80% water and having a pH lower than 3.5. Due to the high acidity of these solutions, their use in the cosmetics field is difficult to envisage. Indeed, repeated application of these solutions can disturb the balance of the skin and in particular irritate or even burn the skin.

We know, moreover, the article by BR Hajratwala entitled " Stability of ascorbic acid ", published in the Revue Sciences Pharmaceutiques, March 15, 1985. In this article, it is taught in particular to stabilize ascorbic acid in acidic aqueous solution by adding a surfactant which is an oxyethylenated sorbitan ester. In particular, the author reported there that at pH 3.4 and at 25°C, the addition of this agent reduced the rate of oxidation, and therefore of degradation of ascorbic acid in solution. In addition, this document teaches the use of a chelating agent such as ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), and conditioning under nitrogen in the absence of light, to improve the stability of ascorbic acid in aqueous solution. Such an acidic aqueous solution, applied to the skin, has the same drawbacks as those described above for acidic hydroalcoholic solutions. In addition, the stabilization obtained is still insufficient.

Other methods of stabilizing ascorbic acid have been considered, in particular by coating (FR 1 600 826) or by granulation of ascorbic acid (JP A 53-127819). But these techniques are, on the one hand, expensive, and on the other hand can alter the ascorbic acid, for example during heating, and/or lead to compositions that are not very cosmetic, as is the case with granules .

In addition, document US 5,853,741 describes the stabilization of ascorbic acid by non-emulsifying silicone elastomers known under the trade references “Gransil”. The disadvantage of these products is that they provide an oily, greasy effect, with no cooling effect, which does not allow or makes it difficult to use them in a hot and humid environment and/or by users with oily skin. In addition, these polymers are completely water-repellent and difficult to incorporate in the aqueous phase. Due to their strong incompatibility with water and in particular with sweat, the latter is not absorbed by these polymers and even tends to "bead" on the surface of the skin when it perspires. In addition, current consumer demands tend to favor the absence of silicone compounds in cosmetic compositions.

Finally, in addition to the aforementioned drawbacks, all of the known compositions do not make it possible to stabilize a large quantity of vitamin C, possibly in combination with other active agents.

There therefore remains the need for a composition which can be used in particular in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, containing ascorbic acid and/or one of its stabilized derivatives in high contents, in particular greater than 5% by weight, which does not cause any irritation of the skin after application, and which is stable, in particular rheologically.

There also remains the need for a composition which can be used in particular in the cosmetics field, in which one or more hydrophilic active agents, and in particular vitamin C, are stable, in particular from a rheological point of view, and which has good sensoriality for its use in cosmetics, and which is in particular consistent, non-sticky and which does not fluff.

In addition, there remains a need to stabilize several distinct active agents effectively in a cosmetic composition, and in particular in a composition of the oil-in-water type.

Finally, there also remains a need to have compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view.

The invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight composition;
- at least one fatty phase;
- at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters; And
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to effectively stabilize ascorbic acid and its derivatives in large quantities, optionally in combination with other active agents.

Indeed, as emerges from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention are stable, in particular from a rheological point of view.

In addition, it has been found that the compositions in accordance with the invention are stable while exhibiting organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user, in particular they have a consistent finish, and do not fluff.

They also advantageously make it possible to implement a large number of active ingredients.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not include controversial ingredients, and in particular does not include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives, or silicone compounds, or parabens.

Thus, the compositions in accordance with the invention meet environmental requirements and consumer requirements.

A composition according to the invention is in particular used for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably for caring for keratin materials.

Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge better on reading the description and the examples which follow.

detailed description

Ascorbic acid and derivatives

As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or of one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C , and/or one of its derivatives, and more preferably of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 12% by weight of active material, and more preferably from 6% to 11% by weight of active material, of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or of one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 12% by weight of active material, and more preferably from 6% to 11% by weight of active material, of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition .

The ascorbic acid can be in the D or L form, advantageously in the L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

As a derivative of ascorbic acid, particular mention may be made of the saccharide esters of ascorbic acid and the metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

The ose esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated Nacetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or alternatively 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds, as well as their methods of preparation, are described in particular in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and JP5213736.

For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

The derivatives of ascorbic acid suitable according to the present invention can be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by the Exsymol Company, the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl -ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by the company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by the company Hayashibara.

Preferably, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is used.

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 5% to 12% by weight of active ingredient of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, in particular from 5.5% to 10% by weight, of preferably from 6% to 9% by weight, and more preferably from 6.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Gelling agents of the aqueous phase

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido acid 2-methylpropane sulfonic, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is gelled with at least 1.8% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, in particular at least 1.9% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and more preferably at least 2% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid are present in the composition in a mass ratio equal to 1/3.

Homopolymer d ' 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid

The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprises 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units of formula (I) below:

wherein X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion.

As 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or uncrosslinked homopolymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked homopolymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant.

Preferably, as homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of crosslinked homopolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropane ammonium sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), in particular the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant.

The concentration of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer (i.e. in active ingredient) generally ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 1% to 2% by weight.

H cross-linked omopolymer d ' acrylic acid

Cross-linked homopolymer of acrylic acid is an anionic synthetic thickening polymer.

Among the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as for example the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA.

Such acrylic homopolymers may be present in the composition in particulate or non-particulate form. When they are in particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 μm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5 μm. Their average size in the dry or non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 μm, preferably less than or equal to 1 μm.

Preferably, the acrylic acid homopolymer is present in non-particulate form.

Preferably, an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer is used. The homopolymer used according to the invention is in particular chosen from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.

The acrylic acid homopolymer can advantageously be neutralized at a rate ranging from 5% to 80%.

Among these acrylic polymers already neutralized before their implementation, we can cite for example:
- sodium polyacrylates, in particular those marketed under the name Cosmedia SP ^® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL ^® in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene ) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis;
- partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates, in particular in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name ^Luvigel® EM by the company BASF; And
- their mixtures.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises sodium polyacrylate, in particular that marketed under the name Cosmedia ^SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, sold by the company Cognis.

It is also possible to use an acrylic acid polymer that has not been neutralized beforehand, which is then partially or totally neutralized before implementation by any appropriate means and in particular by adding any base such as soda, potassium hydroxide, an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine . For example, sodium polyacrylates are obtained. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for the present invention.

The neutralization step, for example by sodium or potassium counterions, is important to give the acid polymers their properties of gelling and therefore of stabilizing the composition. Said acrylic polymers are converted into corresponding acrylate polymers during this neutralization step.

The concentration of crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid (i.e. of active material), preferably at least partially neutralized, generally ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.3% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid is an at least partially neutralized homopolymer of acrylic acid, and preferably is at least one sodium polyacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of natural hydrophilic gelling agent or of natural origin, and in particular devoid of non-starch polysaccharides.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sodium Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer type.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tautate Copolymer type (INCI name).

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the crosslinked acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate sodium type.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of anionic terpolymer type of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl]amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and lauryl acrylate tetraethoxylated and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate steareth 25 methacrylate crosspolymer type.

Oily Phase

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

By “ oil ”, is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty phase content in the composition ranges from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 10% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably ranges from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone oil(s). , preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), and more preferably is devoid of silicone oil(s).

The oils may be volatile and/or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

By " non-volatile " is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ^{- 3} mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “ silicone oil ” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term " fluorinated oil " means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term " hydrocarbon oil " means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

By “ volatile oil ” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg ).

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase also comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a fatty alcohol wax.

Volatile oils

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

The volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

Mention may in particular be made, among volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular of branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkane, and more particularly isododecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and of n -tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) .

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises two volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably isododecane and a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ).

Preferably, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 2 % to 20% by weight, and even more preferably ranges from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil, and more preferentially a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof,
- non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20° C. measured with a Rheomat RM100 ^® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. By "non-volatile alkane" is meant a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999/13/EC of March 11, 1992: “Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K”. In particular, the non-volatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms. carbon, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic,
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triesters of glycerides which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter possibly be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,
- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,
- synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R ₁ represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of alcohols having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the benzoate of 2- ethylphenyl such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, erucate of oleyl, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diiso sebacate propyl such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear di-alkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear di-alkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms carbon, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates,
- fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" from Ajinomoto,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,
- higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis;
as well as mixtures of these different oils.

The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes of Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax.

Such waxes can be chosen from lauric or lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, cerylic alcohol , montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty amides, and more preferably Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

Preferably, the content of fatty amide(s) is between 1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 2% and 18% by weight, and preferably between 4% and 16% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, a first of which is chosen from fatty amides, and a second chosen from synthetic esters, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and carbonates.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least three non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, of which a first chosen from fatty amides, a second chosen from synthetic esters, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and carbonates, and a third selected from non-volatile alkanes.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate and an oil chosen from synthetic esters, preferably isononyl isononanoate.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate and at least one oil chosen from isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate and dicapryl ether.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, and a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) is between 2% and 25% by weight, in particular between 5% and 20% by weight, and preferably between 8% and 18 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a fatty alcohol wax.

Preferably, the content of solid fatty substance(s) is between 1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 1.5% and 7% by weight, and preferably between 2% and 6% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By “ water-soluble solvent ” according to the present invention is meant a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerine, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

According to one embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C ₂ -C ₃₂ polyol.

By “ polyol ”, it is necessary to understand, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of the alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions, and more particularly minus four –OH functions.

The polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

The polyol may for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol , caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, and preferably at least pentylene glycol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8% to 17% by weight of glycerol, relative to the weight composition total.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 88% by weight, and more preferably from 45% to 85% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Surfactants

As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactants other than said surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one gemini surfactant as additional surfactant.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant chosen from glycerol esters

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

The glycerol esters can be chosen from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and glyceryl esters.

The glyceryl fatty acid ester can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly at least one mono-, di- and/or triester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms.

As ester of glyceryl and of C ₁₈ fatty acid, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tri-glyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the glyceryl and fatty acid ester used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

Preferably, the glyceryl stearate is that marketed by Ashland under the name Cera Synt SD-ISP, or else that marketed by Stéarinerie Dubois under the name DUB GMS 50/50.

Preferably, the mono-, di- and/or triester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms is present in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight.

As a glycerol ester, a composition of the invention may also comprise a fatty acid polyglycerol ester containing from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

We can cite for example the following commercial products:
- Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate: Dermosoft DGMC (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft Q-10D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.); Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-5 Caprate: Sunsoft A-10E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate: Glysurf 6MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate: Sunsoft Q-10S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); SY-Glyster MD-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo) (Celless Laboratory Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate;
- Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.), Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate: Resassol PG4C (Res Pharma Srl);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate: Caprol 6GC8 (Abitec Corporation); Dermofeel G 6 CY (Dr. Straetmans), Sunsoft Q-81F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate: NatraGem S150 (Croda Europe, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate: Dermofeel G 2 L (Dr. Straetmans); DL-100 (Riken Vitamin Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate: Hydramol TGL Ester (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.); Sunsoft A-12C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft A-121C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd;
- Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate: S-Face L-401 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Tego Care PL 4 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate: Dermofeel G 5 L (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft A-12E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate: Nikkol Hexaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); S-Face L-601 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate: Dermofeel G 10 L (Dr. Straetmans); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-LV EX (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); S-Face L-1001 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft M-12J (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.).

Mention may in particular be made of Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate.

As ester of glycerol and fatty acid, mention may also be made of mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture , marketed under the name Arlacel 165 ^® by the company Croda, or the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, marketed under the name Tegin ^® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant chosen from glycerol esters is chosen from mono-, di- and/or triesters of glyceryl and fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms, and preferably is glyceryl stearate.

The surfactant(s) chosen from glycerol esters may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional surfactant

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional surfactant.

The additional surfactants can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document “ Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology , KIRK-OTHMER ”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) or one of its stereoisomers:

in which :
- Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group, in particular a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
- j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and
- l represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (A), l represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.

Preferably, in formula (A), Y' represents -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2, and l = 10.

As examples of geminal surfactants of formula (A), mention may be made of sodium lysine dilauramidoglutamide, sodium lysine dimyristoylglutamide and sodium lysine distearoylglutamide.

Preferably, the geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) is sodium lysine dilauramidoglutamide.

Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is sold in particular by Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB-10.

The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) described in particular in application WO 2004/020394.

The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (A) may be present in the composition in an amount of active ingredient ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may also additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from mono, di or triesters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. carbon such as stearic acid, in particular sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from stearic acid, sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises stearic acid and sucrose tristearate.

The hydrophilic surfactant(s) chosen from mono, di or triesters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant, distinct from glycerol esters, and in particular chosen from esters of polyols and saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene units, in particular chosen from polyethylene glycol and C fatty acid esters₈-VS₂₄, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol fatty acid esters C₈-VS₂₄, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; C-fatty acid sugar esters₈-VS₂₄; sugar ethers and C fatty alcohols₈-VS₂₄ ; and their mixtures.

As ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and/or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name : PEG-40 stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof. More particularly, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate).

The hydrophilic surfactant(s) chosen from polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Expenses

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 10% by weight of filler(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. The filler(s) may in particular be organic fillers and/or inorganic fillers.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic filler and one inorganic filler.

Organic fillers

In the present application, the term “organic filler” means any organic solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25° C.). The term "organic" means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.

As organic fillers capable of being used in the anhydrous composite material of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide (nylon ^® ) particles, polyethylene powders, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, polymethacrylate microspheres powders, ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, powders of natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, cellulose particles, silicone resin microbeads, amino acid powders , wax microdispersion particles, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic filler, in particular chosen from N-acylated amino acids comprising an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2- ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one N-acylated amino acid powder, in particular a lauroyl lysine powder, for example that which is marketed under the name Amihope LL by the company Ajinomoto or else that which is marketed under the name Corum 5105 S by the company Corum.

Lauroyl lysine is preferably present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably in a amount ranging from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Inorganic fillers

In the present application, the term “inorganic filler” means any inorganic solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25° C.). “Inorganic” means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom.

Mention may be made, as inorganic fillers, of porous spherical silica particles, porous silica microbeads, zeolites, calcium magnesium carbonate, lamellar inorganic particles such as talcs, micas, nacres, pearlite particles, in particular expanded perlite particles, or even boron nitride.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least boron nitride.

The boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary size of between 1 and 50 μm, better still between 1 and 30 μm, more preferentially between 1 and 25 μm, and even more preferentially between 1 and 10 μm.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface by the BET method or by means of a laser granulometer.

As commercial boron nitride that can be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, in particular under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

The boron nitride is preferably present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 1% by weight, better still in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler, preferably chosen from boron nitride and/or lauroyl lysine.

Additional assets

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active ingredients, and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active ingredients, distinct from acid ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

The additional asset(s) may in particular be chosen from:
- vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate),
- humectants such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, and xylitylgiucoside, and in particular glycerol;
- C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol;
- antioxidant compounds;
- anti-ageing active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentylacetic acid sodium salt; And
- their mixtures.

In particular, the additional cosmetic active may be at least one hydrophilic active.

The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-ageing agents, matting agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

C-glycoside compounds

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular of the following general formula:

in which :
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, in particular C ₁ -C ₂ , in particular methyl;
- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds:
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside- 2-hydroxy-propane.

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above suitable for the invention may preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, whose INCI name is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, in particular marketed under the name Mexoryl ^SBB® or Mexoryl ^SCN® by Chimex.

The salts of the C-glycosides suitable for the invention can comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphonic acid groups. They can be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or even aromatic acids. These acids may additionally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

The C-glycosides of formula illustrated above are known from document WO 02/051828.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 14% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.05 % to 12% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly ranging from 1% to 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compounds of ' salicylic acid

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

in which :
- the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more conjugatable double bonds; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in the free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R' is a hydroxyl group;
as well as their salts resulting from a mineral or organic base.

In particular, the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains possibly being substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in the free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

Mention may be made in particular of the compounds in which the radical R is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Among the salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made in particular of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

The salicylic acid compound may in particular be chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and for example is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds of formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base. By way of example of a mineral base, mention may be made of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly advantageous.

The compounds of formula illustrated above which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, EP-A-570,230.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one salicylic acid compound in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0 .1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic acid

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence via the alternating glycosidic bonds β(1,4) and β(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13000000 daltons. This molecular weight largely depends on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the methods of preparation.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, in the context of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in peri-cellular gels, in the basic substance of the connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid articular, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli process.

Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range mentioned above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use fractions of hyaluronic acid which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

By way of illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system”, R. Stern et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid based on its molecular weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50000 and 5000000, in particular between 100000 and 5000000, in particular between 400000 and 5000000 Da . In this case, we are talking about high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which can also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, we speak of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

Alternatively again, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 10 ⁶ ), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present as spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by the company BASF under the name Sphere d'Acide Hyaluronique. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely MW 1.5 x 10 ⁶ , 400000 and 600000 Da.

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3%, and more particularly ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the additional active ingredient(s) is (are) chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one humectant, preferably glycerin; a C-glycoside compound, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol; and a hyaluronic acid compound, including sodium hyaluronate.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 15% by weight of additional active ingredient(s), and preferably from 8% to 12% by weight of additional active ingredient(s), by relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that these contents do not include the possible presence of glycerol.

Indeed, as indicated above, a composition according to the invention may also comprise from 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 6% to 17% by weight. of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetics field, such as preservatives, for example hydroxyacetone, perfumes, dyestuffs, polar additives, film-forming polymers , pH adjusters (acids or bases), for example citric acid, tartaric acid or oxalic acid, chelating agents, cosmetic active agents such as for example healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and / or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition considered.

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, that is to say it comprises less than 0.01 % by weight, or even is devoid of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular devoid of silicone compound and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and/or parabens, and preferably devoid of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and parabens.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one chelating agent, and preferably at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.

Composition

As stated above, a composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and/or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin.

It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say one that has a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness , redness, likely to distract the user from applying this composition.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetics field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.

For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may in particular take the form of an aqueous or oily solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or else microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of the ionic and/or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7, or even from 4 to 6.5.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one pH-adjusting compound, for example sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide.

A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

Dial destination

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, facial preference.

These compositions can constitute cleaning, protection, treatment or care creams for the face, for the hands, or for the body, for example day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, creams lotions, fluid foundations, protective or caring body milks, sun milks, lotions, cure ampoules.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a care and/or sun protection product for the face and/or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, milks, lotions, creams more or less unctuous, gel-creams.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, preferably the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined previously.

Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined above. above.

In particular, a composition according to the invention can be implemented with the aim of combating the signs of skin ageing.

Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin ageing.

The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression " comprising a " must be understood as being synonymous with " comprising at least one ", unless the contrary is specified.

The expressions “ between … and … ”, “ comprises of … to … ”, “ formed from … to … ”, and “ ranging from … to … ” must be understood as limits included, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by weight.

Methods of measurement and evaluation

centrifugation

The stability of the compositions is evaluated by passing the compositions obtained through a centrifuge, of the Thermo Scientific type, at T=24 hours, according to the following protocol: 3500 rpm for 1 hour. The observation of a phase shift, release or change in appearance is checked.

Stability measurement

The stability of the compositions is evaluated at different times and under the following conditions: at T=24 hours at ambient temperature (25° C.). It can also be evaluated by placing the compositions obtained for 15 days at 55°C, and at T=1 month and T=2 months, at 4°C, at room temperature (25°C), at 37°C and at 45°C. The observation of a phase shift, release or change in appearance is checked.

Measurement of the viscosity

The viscosity of formulas can be measured using a Rheomat RM 200 type rheometer from Lamy Rheology with spindle 4 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The values are recorded at T = 30 seconds, at T = 10 minutes, and at T = 24 hours.

Measurement of the organoleptic properties of the compositions

The stickiness of the deposits made with the formulas is evaluated according to the following protocol: each of the compositions is applied to the skin so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness.

The stickiness is evaluated by the subject when the formula dries after 2 minutes at room temperature (25°C).

Example 1: Compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 1 to 5 according to the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition preparation protocol

The compositions are prepared with a Maxilab from Olsa, equipped with an external and internal blade and an emulsifier.

The compounds of phase A are weighed in the main tank, cold. The compounds are dispersed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained (emulsifier at 300 rpm, outer paddle at 70 rpm and inner paddle at 100 rpm). Under agitation, the raw materials of phase B are aspirated.

The mixture is dispersed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained without clusters and without grains (emulsifier at 1200 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 250 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes).

At the same time, phase C is prepared in a beaker, heated to 70-75°C with stirring using a magnetic bar until a clear and colorless phase is obtained. With stirring, phase C is aspirated slowly and regularly (emulsifier at 2800 rpm, outer paddle at 120 rpm and inner paddle at 250 rpm for 10 minutes). The mixture is dispersed until a consistent emulsion is obtained.

After homogenization, the mixture is cooled to between 15 and 20°C.

The compounds of phase D are mixed beforehand and added to the manufacturing tank (emulsifier at 1800 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

Phase F is prepared beforehand with stirring with a magnetic bar, and aspirated with stirring (emulsifier at 1800 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

At the end of manufacture, phase E is added (emulsifier at 1800 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

Example 2: Compositions 6 to 8 according to the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 6 to 8 according to the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 3: Composition 9 outside the invention

The anti-ageing care composition for the face, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, 9 outside the invention, is prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in the example 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 4: Compositions 10 to 13 outside the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 10 to 13 outside the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in the Example 1. The values are expressed as percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 5: Results

All of the compositions were tested in terms of stability and sensoriality, according to the methods described in the paragraph “Methods of measurement and evaluation” above.

Composition 1 according to the invention is stable, even after 2 months of storage, and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 28 UD at ambient temperature, at T=10 minutes and at T=24 h.

Composition 2 according to the invention is stable and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 20 UD at ambient temperature, at T=10 minutes and at T=24 h.

Composition 3 according to the invention is stable and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 22 UD at ambient temperature, at T=10 minutes and at T=24 h.

Composition 4 according to the invention is stable, even after 2 months of storage, and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 28.4 UD at ambient temperature, at T=10 minutes and at T=24 h.

Composition 5 according to the invention is also stable and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 27 UD at ambient temperature, at T=10 minutes and at T=24 h.

Composition 6 according to the invention is stable, even after 2 months of storage, and has good sensoriality. It has a viscosity of 19 UD at ambient temperature, at T=10 minutes and at T=24 h.

Compositions 7 and 8 according to the invention are also stable and have good sensoriality with a viscosity of 9.1 UD at room temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h and 15 UD at room temperature, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 h, respectively.

Composition 9 outside the invention is not stable. Lumps appear after storage for 2 months at 45°C. In addition, it becomes brown and shows a significant loss of viscosity.

Compositions 10 and 11 outside the invention are not stable. A release is observed after storage for 1 month at 45°C.

Composition 12 outside the invention is not stable from its preparation. The composition is not homogeneous.

Composition 13 outside the invention is not stable. It shows significant yellowing after storage for 2 months at 45°C. In addition, a release is observed.

In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention are stable and have good sensoriality, unlike the compositions outside the invention, the content and/or nature of the aqueous gelling agents of which are different, or which do not have the same surfactant as that of the present invention. .

Claims (16)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight composition;
- at least one fatty phase;
- at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters; And
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, the aqueous phase being gelled with at least 1.8% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, in particular at least 1.9% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and preferably at least 2% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid being an at least partially neutralized homopolymer of acrylic acid, and preferably being at least one sodium polyacrylate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the fatty phase content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably ranges from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the fatty phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the surfactant chosen from glycerol esters being chosen from mono-, di- and/or triester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and preferably being stearate of glyceryl. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) or one of its stereoisomers:

in which :
- Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group,
- j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and
- l represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, the geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) being chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and preferably being sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from mono-, di- or triesters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from stearic acid, sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 8% to 13% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the content of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active ingredients, and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active ingredients, distinct from ascorbic acid or from one of its derivatives. Composition according to the preceding claim, the additional active agent(s) being chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, devoid of silicone compound and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and/or parabens, and preferably devoid of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and parabens. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.