FR3104974A1 - Retinol based serum - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel, comprising retinol, at least 11% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-acid glycerides comprising at least one chain alkyl ranging from C6 to C16, and having at least two ethylene oxide groups, at least one non-volatile ether oil having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile monoester oil. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Retinol Serum

The present invention relates to the field of care and/or makeup for keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, containing retinol.

By “ keratin materials ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant in particular the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or of the face, and more preferably of the face.

Skin aging results from the effects on the skin of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. During the aging process, an alteration in the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles resulting from slackening and loss of tissue elasticity.

On the other hand, intrinsic aging, which induces changes in the skin, causes in particular a slowdown in the renewal of skin cells, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue. and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, loss of vertical fibers from the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

Retinol, which is one of the forms of vitamin A, is known to have different biological properties, and is of particular interest in the treatment of the signs of skin aging.

Indeed, retinol is a natural endogenous constituent of the human body. It is also well tolerated when applied to the skin up to much higher levels than retinoic acid.

However, when it is introduced into a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for topical application, retinol degrades rapidly under the effect of light, oxygen, metal ions, oxidizing agents, water or in particular under the effect of a rise in temperature, not making it possible to maintain a high level of retinol in the composition during its repeated uses.

The thermal degradation of retinol was the subject of a study published in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 46, 191-198 (July-August 1995).

This results in an instability of the retinol formulated in cosmetic compositions and it has therefore already been proposed to stabilize the retinol contained in these formulations.

Nevertheless, the solutions proposed to date involve the implementation of controversial compounds, such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and/or are ineffective.

In addition, the quantities of retinol delivered by the compositions that already exist when they are applied to keratin materials remain very limited. Indeed, a significant amount of retinol present in these compositions is not delivered and therefore not used.

However, to ensure its tolerance in cosmetics, the level of retinol introduced into the cosmetic compositions is restricted. Thus, it is not possible to increase the retinol content delivered by the compositions by increasing its content in the cosmetic compositions.

It would therefore be particularly advantageous to be able to maximize the performance of compositions based on retinol, in particular by having available compositions making it possible to deliver high amounts of retinol to the skin, while being stable.

There is therefore a need for compositions, in particular cosmetics, which are capable of delivering high concentrations of retinol, while being stable.

For obvious reasons, it would also be of particular interest if these compositions were of a nature to improve the effectiveness of retinol.

In particular, there is a need to propose a new galenic allowing the stabilization of retinol and promoting its bioavailability on the skin.

There is also a need to have such cosmetic compositions which are compatible with consumer requirements, in particular from an environmental point of view.

The object of the present invention is precisely to propose a new galenic formulation of resveratrol making it possible to meet the aforementioned expectations.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel, comprising:
- retinol;
- at least 11% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;
- at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two ethylene oxide groups;
- at least one non-volatile ether oil having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; And
- at least one non-volatile monoester oil.

The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the implementation of retinol in a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel, combined with specific compounds, makes it possible to significantly increase its cutaneous bioavailability, and therefore to deliver a large amount of retinol relative to the initial amount used in the composition.

Indeed, as emerges from the examples given below, retinol is significantly more available on the skin with the compositions according to the invention, compared with the existing compositions.

In addition, the specific combination of the compounds according to the invention makes it possible to effectively stabilize the retinol contained in a cosmetic composition.

In addition, it has been found that the compositions in accordance with the invention are stable while exhibiting organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user, in particular an odor and a color in accordance with the expectations of users. In addition, the smell and color do not deteriorate during the use of the composition.

A composition according to the invention is in particular used for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably for caring for keratin materials.

Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge better on reading the description and the examples which follow.

detailed description

Retinol

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises retinol, otherwise known as Vitamin A.

By “ retinol ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant all the isomers of retinol, in particular all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4- didehydroretinol.

Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of retinol.

By “ effective amount ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an amount of retinol making it possible to obtain the desired effect by its implementation, in particular the reduction of the signs of aging of keratin materials.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.02% by weight of retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, a composition according to the invention may comprise a quantity of retinol comprised between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, in particular comprised between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably comprised between 0, 08% and 1.0% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the content of active material, also called dry material, of retinol, introduced into the composition.

According to a particular variant embodiment, the retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, in particular in a content ranging from 5.0% to 20% by weight. , preferably about 10% by weight in oil.

Those marketed by the company BASF, in particular under the name Retinol 10SU, at 10% by weight of active ingredient in soybean oil are very particularly suitable.

According to another particular embodiment variant, the retinol can also be implemented in an encapsulated form.

Polyol

A composition according to the invention comprises at least 11% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polyol(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 11% to 25% by weight, preferably from 13% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 14% to 18%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “ polyol ”, it is necessary to understand, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of the alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions, and more particularly minus four –OH functions.

The polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 16 carbon atoms.

The polyol may for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol , polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol may for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,2-pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least two distinct polyols, and preferably at least three distinct polyols.

Preferably, it comprises at least glycerol and at least one distinct polyol chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2 -pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 3.0% to 8.0% by weight of glycerol and from 8.0% to 15% by weight of at least one distinct polyol chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, for relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

A composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel and comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

The term “ hydrophilic gelling agent ” within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

As specified above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural-origin polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two distinct hydrophilic gelling agents.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) chosen from cross-linked and/or neutralized polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

I. Natural polymeric gelling agents or d ' natural origin

The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention can be natural or of natural origin.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “ of natural origin ” is intended to denote the polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of the natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall under the category of polysaccharides.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 2.0% by weight, in particular at the rate of about 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Generally speaking, polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories.

Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be homopolysaccharides like fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides like hemicellulose.

Similarly, they can be linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched like gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed like starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not.

By way of representative of the starchy polysaccharides can be very particularly quoted, the native starches, the modified starches and the particulate starches.

According to a variant embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is non-starchy.

In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides can be chosen from the polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives ; and their mixtures.

In particular, the polysaccharides can be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, acids pectics and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, arabic gums, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and derivatives thereof not ionic, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulphate and mixtures thereof.

These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea or urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides can be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, compounds based on alginate, in particular alginate of sodium, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polysaccharide can be xanthan gum.

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of β-D-glucoses linked in β(1,4), similar to cellulose. Every second glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group bound in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. Charged glucuronic acids and pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH equal to 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the strain of bacteria, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na ⁺ , K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ ions (SATIA Company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis from an acid solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1000000 to 50000000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 to 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, LVT type at 60 rpm).

Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane ^TM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan ^TM by ADM, and under the names Kelzan ^® and Keltrol ^® by CP-Kelco.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a xanthan gum.

Such a gelling agent can be implemented at a rate of 0.1% to 8.0% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6.0% by weight, of preferably between 0.5% and 2.5% by weight, in particular at a rate of approximately 1.5%, or alternatively at a rate of approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Among the other polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, β(1,4)-2-Acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives ( chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitine, etc.) such as those sold by the company France-Chitine; Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives.

Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped together under the name “ pentosans ”.

Xylans consist of a main chain of D-xylose units linked at β(1,4) and on which there are three substituents (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, α-L- arabinofuranose, side chains may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

According to this variant, the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).

II. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

Within the meaning of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor is it derived from a polymer of natural origin.

The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent considered according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term particulate means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

As emerges from what follows, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and/or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and preferably from associative polymers, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and carboxyvinyl polymers, and more preferably from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid.

More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers.

The particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

They may in particular be crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form.

According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates.

The family of non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents can be detailed in the following subfamilies: associative polymers, polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2 methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and/or neutralized, and modified carboxyvinyl polymers or not.

By “ associative polymer ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

The polymers used suitable as aqueous gelling agent for the invention can be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the monomer 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS ^® ), in partially or completely neutralized form by a mineral base other than ammonia such as soda or potash. They are preferably completely neutralized or practically completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

These ^AMPS® polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

The AMPS ^® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are either "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, or copolymers obtained from AMPS ^® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if cross-linked, one or more cross-linking agents. When said copolymers contain hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter do not contain a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ^® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50000 g/mole to 10000000 g/mole, preferably from 80000 g/mole to 8000000 g/mole, and even more preferably from 100000 g/mole to 7000000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example:
- sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate crosslinked copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic;
- copolymers of AMPS ^® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC ^® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized with soda or potash ;
- copolymers of AMPS ^® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG ^® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);
- AMPS ^® and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as for example the AMPS ^® /hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS ^® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or like the product marketed under the name Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sulfonate Sodium/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer like the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ).

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of ^AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a homopolymer of AMPS ^® , preferably a crosslinked polymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate.

In particular, such an AMPS ^® homopolymer may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.01% and 5.0% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3.0% by weight. weight, and more preferably between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid.

According to a preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is an AMPS ^® homopolymer.

III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents

As other hydrophilic gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas may be more particularly mentioned.

The mixed silicates suitable for the invention can be chosen for example from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and even better from laponites.

Pyrogenic hydrophilic silicas are obtained by continuous flame pyrolysis at 1000°C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl ₄ ) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the pyrogenic silicas of hydrophilic nature that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by the company Degussa or Evonik Degussa under the trade names Aerosil ^® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380, or even by the company Cabot under the name Carbosil H5.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polysaccharides, in particular produced by microorganisms, non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents, in particular polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido acid 2-Methylpropane sulphonic, crosslinked and/or neutralized, and mixtures thereof.

The polysaccharides produced by preferred microorganisms according to the invention are chosen from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, pullulan, and mixtures thereof. It may be the Xanthan Gum (and) Sclerotium (and) Lecithin (and Pullulan) mixture marketed under the name ^Siligel® .

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two distinct hydrophilic gelling agents, or even at least three distinct hydrophilic gelling agents.

A composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.05% and 5.0% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s), preferably between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more preferably between 0.5 % and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Derived from polyethylene glycol and glyceride d ' acid

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two groups of ethylene oxide.

The derivatives of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid preferably contain at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₄ , and have at least two ethylene oxide groups, and preferably 6 to 10 ethylene oxide groups.

As an example of such derivatives can be cited derivatives of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic acid and capric acid, such as that with 6 ethylene oxide groups (INCI name: PEG -6 caprylic/capric glycerides), marketed under the name Softigen 767 by the company Sasol.

The derivative or derivatives of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acids comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two ethylene oxide groups may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ether oil

A composition according to the invention further comprises at least one non-volatile ether oil having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term " non-volatile oil " is intended to denote an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient ^temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than ^10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Such oils are hydrocarbon oils, that is, they contain mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile ether oil suitable for the invention comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As an example of ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms can be cited dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether).

Such a non-volatile ether oil may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 5.0% by weight, more particularly from 2 0.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Mono ester oil

A composition according to the invention further comprises at least one non-volatile monoester oil.

Such a monoester oil may in particular comprise between 18 and 70 carbon atoms, preferably between 18 and 40 carbon atoms.

In particular, the volatile monoester oil in accordance with the invention has the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain , in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 18, such as for example Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, _C12 - _C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearyl, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate of 2-ethyl-hexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate.

Preferably, these are esters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₁ and R ₂ being such that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 18.

As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, preferably isononyl isononanoate.

The volatile monoester oil may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 2, 0% to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprises at least:

- between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight of retinol;
- between 11% and 25% by weight of at least one polyol;
- between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;
- between 0.5% and 2.5% by weight of at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two ethylene oxide groups;
- between 1.0% and 5.0% by weight of at least one non-volatile ether oil having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; And
- between 1.0% and 5.0% by weight of at least one non-volatile monoester oil,
relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent, distinct from the polyols defined above.

It is understood that the hydrophilic gelling agent and the polyols used according to the invention are also present in the aqueous phase.

By “ water-soluble solvent ” according to the present invention is meant a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can in particular be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Oil phase

A composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel, and therefore comprises an oily phase.

It is understood that the derivative(s) of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two oxide groups of ethylene, the non-volatile ether oil(s) having 10 to 40 carbon atoms and the non-volatile monoester oil(s) are present in the oily phase.

The oily phase may also comprise other oils other than the aforementioned oils, in particular cosmetic oils. It may also contain other fatty substances.

By “ oil ”, is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “ silicone oil ” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term " fluorinated oil " means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term " hydrocarbon oil " means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

By “ volatile oil ” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg ).

Volatile oils

The volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

Mention may in particular be made, among volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, of branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane , isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and of n -tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisilazane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As volatile cyclic silicone oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol,
- higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate,
- non-phenyl silicone oils, such as for example caprylyl methicone, and
- phenyl silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt , trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;
- as well as mixtures of these different oils.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil distinct from the non-volatile ether oil having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and from the non-volatile monoester oil, and in particular chosen from the non-volatile oils of carbonate type, and preferably dicaprylyl carbonate.

By “ non-polar oil ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., d _a , is equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: " The three dimensional solubility parameters ", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this space from Hansen:
- δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;
- δ _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- δ _h characterizes the forces of specific interactions (type hydrogen bonds, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); And
- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δp² + δh²) ^½ .
The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

In particular, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it can be chosen from:
- paraffin oil or its derivatives,
- Vaseline oil,
- naphthalene oil,
- polybutylenes, in particular Indopol H-100 (of molar mass or M _W = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (M _W = 1340 g/mol), Indopol H-1500 (M _W = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco,
- polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, in particular Parléam ^® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco (M _W = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by Synteal (M _W = 6000 g/mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by Witco (M _W = 1000 g/mol),
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, in particular Puresyn 10 (M _W = 723 g/mol), Puresyn 150 (M _W = 9200 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,
- and mixtures thereof.

Said non-volatile oil can also be a di- or triester oil.

The ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil can preferably be chosen from:
- diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo;
- triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2;
- tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, tetraisononanoate of pentaerythrityl, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl tetra-2-decyl tetradecanoate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made in this respect of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA;
- esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular obtainable from a carboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C₈to C₃₄, especially in C₁₂to C₂₂, especially in C₁₆to C₂₀, and more particularly in C₁₈, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5^®and DD-DA7^® ;
- vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, for example that sold under the name Antaron V–216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (M_W= 7300 g/mol);
- vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerine trioctanoate, C-acid triglycerides₁₈-₃₆such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;
- and mixtures thereof.

The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes from Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example consistency or texture, desired.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and a non-volatile ester oil.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile fatty acid triglyceride, a non-volatile carbonate oil and a non-volatile ester oil.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.

Preferably, the oily phase or fatty phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 2.0% and 20% by weight, preferably between 3.0% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 4.0% and 12% by weight, or even between 5.0% and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 6.0% and 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

surfactant

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant.

The surfactants can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document “ Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER ”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactant

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

The nonionic surfactants can be chosen in particular from alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of poly(oxide of ethylene) or poly(propylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene alcohols, those which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, are preferably used, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ; these may or may not be ethoxylated, for example such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as Brij ^® 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C _12-15 Pareth-7") such as that marketed under the name Neodol 25-7 ^® by Shell Chamicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-2”) such as ^Brij® 72 marketed by the company Uniqema.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. Mention may be made, for example, of sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween ^® 20 marketed by Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, 20 EO sorbitan stearate, 20 EO sorbitan oleate or even Crémophor ^® (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF. Mention may also be made of the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, marketed under the name ^Arlacel® 2121U-FL from Croda.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group are preferably used. preferably comprising from 1 to 5, especially 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides can be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C ₉ /C ₁₁ -polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10 ^® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ^® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name Oramix NS ^10® by Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE ^3711® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG ^110® by the company Seppic; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ^® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ^® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 ^UP® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 ^UP® by the company Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenic alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, marketed under the name ^Montanov® 202 by the company Seppic; and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, as alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, of the esters of glyceryl and of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid, in particular of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , such as the ester of glycerol and of isooctadecanoic acid ( CTFA name: Glyceryl isostearate).

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) or of poly(propylene oxide), mention may be made of the compounds PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth- 24, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-4 Ceteth-1, PPG-8 Ceteth-1, PPG-4 Ceteth-10, PPG-4 Ceteth-20, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth- 20, and PPG-23 Steareth-34.

Anionic surfactant

The anionic surfactants can be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, derivatives of amino acids, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of acids bold in C₁₀-VS₃₀, especially in C₁₆-VS₂₅, in particular metal stearates and behenates and their mixtures.

Cationic surfactant

The cationic surfactants can be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl-ethylimidonium etho-sulphate, ammonium salts, such as (C _12-30 alkyl)-tri(C ₁ alkyl _-4 )ammonium such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride).

surfactant amphoteric

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or even silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as that sold under the name Pecosil PS ^100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

Surfactant silicone

The composition can also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, mention may be made, as nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25° C., used alone or as a mixture, dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and as nonionic surfactants with an HLB lower at 8 to 25° C., used alone or as a mixture, the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol.

The surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention, in a proportion ranging from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Expenses

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The filler can be chosen from pigments, titanium oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, boron nitride, nacres, synthetic or natural mica, nacres comprising mica and titanium oxide, silica powder, talc, polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ^Orgasol® by the company Atochem, polyethylene powders, microspheres based on copolymers acrylics, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name ^Polytrap® , expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres marketed under the name ^Expancel® by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name ^Micropearl® F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto, silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name ^Tospearl® by the company Toshiba Silicone, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride.

These fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, and preferably from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight. of composition.

Assets

A composition according to the invention may comprise additional active agents, in particular anti-aging active agents distinct from the retinol used according to the invention.

By way of examples of anti-aging active agents, mention may be made of n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid.

Such active agents may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight. of composition.

Sequestering agents

A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more sequestering agents or chelating agents.

By “sequestering agent” or “chelating agent” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a compound capable of combining with transition metals, namely with metals comprising an incomplete d sub-layer, more particularly in the d state. oxidation II, such as cobalt (Co ²⁺ ), iron (Fe ²⁺ ), manganese (Mn ²⁺ ), zinc (Zn ²⁺ ) and copper (Cu ²⁺ ).

In general, the sequestering agents or chelating agents are described in the Encyclopedia "KIRK-OTHMER Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology John Wiley and son Vol 5 pages 708 to 739.

Among the sequestering agents which can be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
- tri or tetracarboxylic acids or their salts such as for example methylglycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-tri-acetic acid ethylenediamine, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N- dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic, ethylene diamine dissuccinic acid (EDDS) or one of its salts, ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts, citric acid;
- phosphonic derivatives such as hexamethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid), ethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid), 1-hydroxyethylidene 1,1-diphosphonic acid, aminotri (methylene phosphonic acid), l diethylene-triamine penta(methylene phosphonic acid), and their salts and in particular their sodium salts such as the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra(methylene phosphonic acid);
- dendrimers with chelating activity;
- proteins such as spermine, spermidine, transferrin, ferritin;
- mono or di carboxylic acids or their salts such as phytic acid, malic acid, nitriloacetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, oxalic acid, mucic acid;
- desferrioxamine mesylate;
- And mixtures of these sequestering agents.

Preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from ethylene diamine dissuccinic acid (EDDS) or one of its salts, ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred salts are alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Preferably, they are sodium salts, such as trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate or even disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention additionally comprises a salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.

An example of trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate is that marketed under the name ^Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or else that marketed under the name Octaquest ^E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

The sequestering agent(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2.5%, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0, 07 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the salt content of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of salt of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid introduced into the composition.

According to a particular variant embodiment, the salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid can be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight in water.

Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name ^Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

Antioxidants

A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more antioxidant agents.

The antioxidant agent can be of the primary type or of the secondary type, and can be chosen from hindered phenols, aromatic secondary amines, organophosphorus compounds, sulfur compounds, lactones, acrylated bisphenols; and their mixtures.

Among the antioxidants most particularly suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tert -Butylhydroquinone (TBHQ), 1,3,5-trimethyl-2, 4,6,tris(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)-benzene, octadecyl-3,5,di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxycinnamate, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetra hydroxycinnamate such as that marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard ^® TT, tetrakis-methylene-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxy-phenyl)propionate methane, octadecyl-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl- 4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate 2,5-di-tertbutyl hydroquinone, 2,2-methyl-bis-(4-methyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 2,2-methylene-bis-(4-ethyl-6- tertbutyl phenol), 4,4-butylidene-bis(6-tertbutyl-m-cresol), N,N-hexamethylene bis(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamamide), pentaerythritol tetrakis (3-( 3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate) in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox ^® 1010, octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox ^® 1076, 1,3,5-tris(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6(1H,3H,5H)trione in particular that marketed by Mayzo of Norcross, Ga under the name BNX ^® 3114, di(stearyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, tris(2,4-ditertbutyl phenyl)phosphite in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos ^® 168, dilauryl thiodipropionate in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox ^® PS800, bis(2,4-di-tertbutyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos ^® 126, bis(2,4-bis)[2-phenylpropan -2-yl]phenyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, triphenylphosphite, (2,4-di-tertbutylphenyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, in particular that sold by GE Specialty Chemicals under the name UL ^Tranox® 626, tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite, in particular that sold by CIBA under the name Irgafos ^® TNPP, the 1:1 mixture of N,N-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxy-hydrocinnamamide) and tris(2,4-di-tertbutylphenyl)phosphate, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox ^® B 1171, tetrakis (2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl)phosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos ^® P-EPQ, distearylthiodipropionate, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox ^® PS802, 2,4-bis(octylthiomethyl)o-cresol, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name ^Irganox® 1520, 4,6-bis(dodecylthiomethyl)o-cresol, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name ^Irganox® 1726.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention further comprises di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetra hydroxycinnamate.

The antioxidant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0 .1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, that is to say that it comprises less than 0, 2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, or even is devoid of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, in particular butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts, and preferably is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or one of its salts.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetics field, such as preservatives, perfumes, colorants, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or base), cosmetic active agents such as, for example, moisturizing agents, healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and/or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition considered.

Composition

As stated above, a composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and/or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin.

It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say one that has a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness , redness, likely to distract the user from applying this composition.

A composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7, and more preferentially from 5 to 7.

A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

Dial destination

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, preferably the face.

These compositions can constitute cleaning, protection, treatment or care creams for the face, for the hands or for the body, for example day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreens , fluid foundations, protective or care body milks, sun milks, gels or foams for skin care, such as bath compositions, deodorizing compositions comprising a bactericidal agent, gels after - shaving, depilatory creams or blisters-cures.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a care and/or sun protection product for the face and/or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, gel - creams or pastes.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, preferably the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined previously.

Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined above. above.

In particular, a composition according to the invention can be implemented with the aim of combating the signs of skin ageing.

Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin ageing.

The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression " comprising a " must be understood as being synonymous with " comprising at least one ", unless the contrary is specified.

The expressions “ between … and … ”, “ comprises of … to … ”, “ formed from … to … ”, and “ ranging from … to … ” must be understood as limits included, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by weight.

Example 1

Compositions 1 outside the invention, and 2 according to the invention, of anti-aging care, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 1

Composition preparation protocol

Composition 1 outside the invention is prepared in the Rotor/Stator according to the following process:

Phase A is dispersed and dissolved. Phase B is added and dispersed. Phase C is added simultaneously and emulsified. The other phases are added.

Composition 2 is prepared at the Rotor/Stator according to the following process:

The aqueous phase A is introduced into a beaker until the ingredients have completely dissolved. The gelling agents are added starting with the Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, until the gel is completely hydrated, then the other gelling agents, namely xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate, hydrated in part of the glycerol, are added until complete. solubilization and hydration. At the same time, the PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30 is solubilized while hot (65-70° C.) in the rest of the glycerol and then introduced into the beaker. Similarly, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is solubilized hot in Dicaprylyl Carbonate. The whole is then emulsified with the oily phase F. The pH is adjusted by adding sodium hydroxide, then ethanol is added.

Example 2

Anti-aging care compositions 3 to 5 according to the invention are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1 for composition 2. The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 2

Example 3

Compositions 6 to 8 of anti-ageing care of the emulsion type outside the invention are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1 for composition 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 3

Example 4

Care composition 9 outside the invention is prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1 for composition 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

Table 4

Example 5

Compositions 1, 2 and 6 to 9 were tested.

Each composition was tested on human abdominal skin samples from eight different donors.

10 mg of each composition is spread over 2 cm ² and mixed with 7 ml of a receiving fluid (Hyclone DPBS/Modified without calcium or magnesium 1X + 0.25% Tween ^80® ) and left for 16 hours at 32°C.

Trans-epidermal water loss measurements are performed to verify the integrity of the skin samples.

A wash is carried out by following the following steps:
- gentle massage for 30 seconds with a soft cotton ball and 0.6 ml of 5% lauryl ether sulphate;
- aspiration/distribution several times of 0.6 ml of 5% lauryl ether sulfate with a pipette;
- aspiration / dispensing three times of 0.6 ml of water with a pipette;
- the washing solution is withdrawn little by little using a pipette and two dry half-cottons.

Samples are taken with tape (Scotch Magic 3M ^® ) to perform scintillation counting for radiolabeling in the washing solution, in the stratum corneum, in the epidermis, in the dermis, and in the receiving fluid.

RemixBiodispo was used for statistical analysis.

The formulas according to the invention deliver larger quantities of retinol than the formulas outside the invention.

The results therefore show that with the compositions according to the invention of the emulsified gel serum type, retinol is significantly more available on the skin than with the compositions outside the invention.

Claims (18)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel, comprising:
- retinol;
- at least 11% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;
- at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two ethylene oxide groups;
- at least one non-volatile ether oil having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; And
- at least one non-volatile monoester oil. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 11% to 25% by weight, preferably from 13% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 14% to 18% by weight of polyol(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) is (are) chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two distinct polyols, and preferably at least three distinct polyols. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least glycerol and at least one distinct polyol chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, crosslinked and/or neutralized, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two distinct hydrophilic gelling agents. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the derivative of polyethylene glycol and of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two ethylene oxide groups is chosen from derivatives of polyethylene glycol and of mono- _, di- and tri-glycerides of acids comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₄ , and having from 6 to 10 ethylene oxide groups, and preferably from derivatives of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic acid and capric acid having 6 ethylene oxide groups. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the non-volatile ether oil having 10 to 40 carbon atoms is dicaprylic ether. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile monoester oil is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, and preferably is isononyl isononanoate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises a non-volatile oil distinct from the non-volatile ether oil having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and from the non-volatile monoester oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile oils of the carbonate type, and is preferably dicaprylyl carbonate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase is present in a content of between 2.0% and 20% by weight, preferably between 3.0% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 4.0% and 12% by weight, or even between 5.0% and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 6.0% and 8.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetra hydroxycinnamate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises a salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any of the preceding claims.