WO2014170591A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a (poly)oxyalkylenated polar oil - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a (poly)oxyalkylenated polar oil Download PDFInfo
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- WO2014170591A1 WO2014170591A1 PCT/FR2014/050901 FR2014050901W WO2014170591A1 WO 2014170591 A1 WO2014170591 A1 WO 2014170591A1 FR 2014050901 W FR2014050901 W FR 2014050901W WO 2014170591 A1 WO2014170591 A1 WO 2014170591A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
Definitions
- Cosmetic composition comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a polar (poly) oxyalkylenated oil
- the present invention relates to especially cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a (poly) oxyalkylenated (C 3 -C 4) polar oil, as well as the use of these compositions in a method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials especially human beings.
- compositions of the invention are intended for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.
- keratin materials is intended to mean, for example, the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.
- compositions containing derivatives of cucurbic acid have insufficient cosmetic properties, especially a touch sticky, rough effect, which gives compositions that are not pleasant to apply by a consumer.
- the derivatives of cucurbic acid also have the disadvantage of being poorly soluble, It follows a recrystallization of these derivatives which causes instability of the formulations. The derivatives of cucurbic acid are then no longer available to act on the skin.
- compositions comprising cucurbic acid compounds, which are stable and which have good cosmetic properties, especially a touch whose texture is non-greasy, non-sticky. Moreover, the compositions have a smooth and shiny appearance.
- composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- At least one cucurbic acid compound in particular of formula (I) below:
- R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
- R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having from 3 to
- compositions obtained have good stability over time, a pleasant appearance, and during their application, good sensory properties.
- “Stable composition” means a composition which, after 24 hours of storage at all temperatures between 4 ° C and 50 ° C, shows little or no macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity, in particular wherein the cucurbic acid compound does not recrystallize over time and / or as a function of temperature.
- the present invention relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment care or makeup of keratin materials comprising the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. Cucurbic acid compound.
- the compound derived from cucurbic acid is a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I):
- R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
- R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts.
- R 1 denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH 2 -CH 3, -COO-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 OH, -COOCH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 OH, - COOCH 2 -CH (OH) -CH3.
- R 1 denotes a -COOH radical.
- R 2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.
- R 2 may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.
- the compound of formula (I) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acid. acetic acid or their salts.
- the compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid or its salts; this compound may especially be in the form of sodium salt.
- the salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH 4 + ; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as for example the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine.
- Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used.
- the sodium salt is used.
- the cucurbic acid derivative compound of formula (I) defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight.
- C3-C4 oxyalkylenated polar oil within the meaning of the present invention means an oil whose surface tension corresponds to the force per unit length, expressed in mN / m, is greater than 20 mN / m at temperature. ambient temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure.
- These oils can be of different chemical natures such as: esters, ethers, alkanes, alcohols, alkenes, vegetable oils, of natural or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon or silicone, linear or branched, polymerized or not.
- the (poly) oxyalkylenated C 3 -C 4 oils generally do not comprise oxyethylenated groups.
- the polar oil according to the invention according to the invention has a surface tension greater than 15 mN / m, better still greater than 20 mN / M and preferably greater than 25 mN / m and more particularly ranging from 25 to 40 mN / m.
- the surface tension is measured according to conventional methods, in particular according to the method of the hanging drop and more particularly according to the method of the Du Nouy ring.
- the technique of the Du Nouy ring consists of immersing a platinum ring in the liquid whose surface tension is to be measured and then pulling the ring towards the liquid / air interface at room temperature.
- the monitor will search for the maximum force at this interface and measure it (Figure k).
- This force is written Pm and can not be obtained directly; it undergoes a correction according to the geometry of the ring.
- the manipulation is carried out with a Kruss K12 tensiometer, the liquid is placed in a perfectly cleaned crystallizer (crystallizer 46mm in diameter ref GL5 Kruss) and the ring is in platinum iridium (ref RI01 Kruss).
- the device gives the surface tension directly in mN / m.
- the polar oil according to the invention is a (poly) oxyalkene compound of formula (II):
- R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22, preferably C 3 -C 18, alkyl or acyl radical;
- AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 3,
- n represents the average number of moles of AO units and n ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and more particularly from 5 to 20.
- R is an alkyl radical, preferably C 1 -C 22, better still C 3 -C 18.
- the polar (poly) oxyalkylenated oil of formula (II) according to the invention is preferably chosen from PPG-2 butyl ether; PPG-3 butyl ether; PPG-4 Butyl
- PPG-10 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether, PPG-20 Cetyl Ether; PPG-28
- PPG-7 Lauryl Ether
- PPG-10 Lauryl Ether, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Methyl Ether; PPG-4 Methyl Ether PPG-3 Myristyl Ether; PPG-4 Myristyl Ether; PPG-
- PPG-37 Oleyl Ether; PPG-50 Oleyl Ether; PPG-1 1 Stearyl Ether; PPG-15
- the (poly) oxyalkylenated (polar) polar oil according to the invention is PPG-Stearyl ether, PPG-3 Myristyl ether, PPG-12 butyl ether, PPG-10 caprylyl ether; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether, PPG-20 Cetyl Ether, PPG-10 Oleyl Ether, PPG-20 Oleyl Ether, PPG-23 Oleyl Ether and more particularly PPG-15 Stearyl Ether and PPG-3 Myristyl Ether, even better PPG -15 Stearyl Ether.
- the (poly) oxyalkylenated C 3 -C 4 polar oil according to the invention is generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions used according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the nails.
- compositions according to the invention can be in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: E / W) emulsions. H / E or H / E / H), aqueous gels.
- the compositions can also be anhydrous. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
- the physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water, organic solvents such as a C 1 -C 8 alcohol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol; a polyol such as glycerine; a glycol such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; polyol ethers.
- organic solvents such as a C 1 -C 8 alcohol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol
- a polyol such as glycerine
- a glycol such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8
- polyol ethers polyol ethers.
- the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to
- the oils, the waxes, the emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
- the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.
- the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of aqueous phase which may range, for example, from 30 to 97% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight and better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as, in particular, water-soluble solvents and additives (for example hydrophilic and active surfactants).
- water-soluble solvents mention may be made in particular of lower alcohols and polyols.
- the term "lower alcohol” is understood to mean alcohols containing from 1 to 8 and more particularly from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol.
- polyols include glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols (for example PEG-8). These alcohols and / or polyols may be present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 0.1 to 25% and from 1 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.
- composition comprises a fatty phase which comprises at least the polar oil according to the invention.
- the fatty phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. All cosmetically acceptable oils can be used.
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene and squalane
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- esters and synthetic ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or 2-ethyl palmitate; hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil
- volatile linear alkanes advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 to 13 carbon atoms.
- volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371.
- n-nonane C 9
- n-decane d 0
- n-undecane C n
- n-dodecane Ci 2
- n-tridecane Ci 3
- n-tetradecane C 4
- n-pentadecane C 5
- n-hexadecane de
- n-heptadecane C 7
- silicone oils for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol);
- oils chosen from:
- fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),
- glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglyce n), such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH,
- the fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5 to 60%, better still from 5 to 50% and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount does not include the polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyalkylene glycol ester emulsifier.
- composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 40% and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the fatty phase, such as fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and the trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names "KSG 6" or "KSG 16" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil", “BY29” or " EPSX “by Dow Corning or under the names” Gransil "by Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. synthetic waxes, silicone waxes; pasty fatty substances as
- composition according to the invention may comprise one or more emulsifier (or surfactant).
- the emulsifier may be chosen for example from nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, succinic-terminated polyolefins, and mixtures thereof.
- esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol.
- the emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters and polyols.
- fatty acid esters of polyols' is understood to mean fatty acid esters of polyols, wherein the fatty acid comprises an alkyl chain C 6 -C 2 2, preferably C 6 -C 2 o, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, a polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty acid may also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (12-hydroxystearic acid polymer).
- the fatty acid and polyol ester is a C 6 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
- linear or branched C 6 -C 20 fatty acids examples include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid.
- An example of a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer is poly12-hydroxystearic acid.
- stearic acid isostearic acid, poly (1-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof are used.
- polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 1 1, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6.
- the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol). , di-, tri-, tetra-25, penta-, oligoglycerols).
- the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles or units) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol.
- said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (d 0 ), and polyol.
- esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and / or sorbitan such as for example polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate) sold under the name Isolan ® GI34 by Goldschmidt, the diisostearate polyglycerolated (3 mol) sold under the Lameform TGI ® denomination by Cognis; distearate polyglycerolated (2 mol) sold under the name Emalex PGSA ® by Nihon emulsion society; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1 -IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diis
- silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name “DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning, and Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt.
- silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name “DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning, and Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil
- the emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably C 6 -C 2 o, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyol chosen from glycerol and / or sorbitan .
- the emulsifier may be present in a content (of solids) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.
- composition for topical application of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
- adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties desired for the composition of the invention.
- one or more hydrophilic thickeners may be incorporated therein.
- carboxyvinyl polymers such as the products sold under the names Carbopol Noveon company; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name) ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name Acrylamide / Sodium acryl
- these gelling agents When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in such a quantity that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention.
- lipophilic gelling agents mention may be made in particular of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), and hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed under the name “bentone”. 38 EC "by the company RHEOX.
- active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such
- composition of the invention may be in any conceivable galenic form.
- the composition may have the form of aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or oily solution; dispersion of the lotion or serum type; water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion; suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type; aqueous, oily or serum lotion; capsules, granules, syrups, tablets; foam, solid preparation; aerosol composition composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.
- a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for hair, a composition of permanent (including a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or a fall protection gel, a pest control shampoo. It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams).
- composition according to the invention when a composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution.
- a composition according to the invention may be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, and may be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent.
- a composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of liquid type vaporizable or not, in the form of paste, gel or support impregnated, in solid form, in particular compact, pulverulent or cast or in a stick form.
- a composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, d a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for face makeup or a makeup composition for the body.
- a composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular of the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance.
- composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against cracking and the cracked appearance of the skin .
- a composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application.
- compositions according to the invention (ex 1 and 5) containing the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid and polar (poly) oxypropylenated oil are stable and homogeneous for at least 1 month at 4. ° C and at 45 ° C, while the compositions comprising an oil outside the invention containing oxyalkylenated groups are not stable or homogeneous.
- compositions 1 and 5 are homogeneous, smooth, shiny and spread easily on the skin, without feeling sticky or greasy, and without linting.
- Compositions 2, 3 and 4 are dull and are not homogeneous.
- Example 6 A solar milk is prepared having the following composition:
- C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Tegosoft TN from Evonik / Goldschmidt) 10% PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate (Arlacel 165 from
- Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan ® GI34 Goldschmidt) 1%
- a foundation composition is prepared:
- compositions applied to the skin spread easily without feeling of stickiness or fat.
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Abstract
The invention relates to a composition especially in the form of an emulsion, particularly a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a (poly)oxyalkylenated (C3-C4) polar oil. The invention is applicable to the care and make-up of keratinic materials.
Description
Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé d'acide cucurbique et une huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée Cosmetic composition comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a polar (poly) oxyalkylenated oil
La présente invention concerne des compositions notamment cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques comprenant un composé d'acide cucurbique et une huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée en C3-C4, ainsi que l'utilisation de ces compositions dans un procédé de traitement non thérapeutique des matières kératiniques en particulier d'êtres humains. The present invention relates to especially cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a (poly) oxyalkylenated (C 3 -C 4) polar oil, as well as the use of these compositions in a method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials especially human beings.
Plus particulièrement, les compositions de l'invention sont destinées au soin et/ou au maquillage des matières kératiniques. More particularly, the compositions of the invention are intended for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.
Au sens de l'invention, on entend désigner par « matières kératiniques », par exemple, la peau, les muqueuses, les lèvres, le cuir chevelu, les fibres kératiniques telles que les cils, les sourcils et les cheveux. For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to mean, for example, the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.
Il est connu dans la demande EP-A-1333021 des composés d'acide cucurbique comme l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique pour favoriser la desquamation de la peau et stimuler le renouvellement épidermique, lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané, améliorer l'éclat du teint et/ou lisser la peau du visage. Dans la demande FR-A62921255 ces composés sont également décrits pour leur utilisation comme agent dépigmentant. It is known in the application EP-A-1333021 cucurbic acid compounds such as 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid to promote desquamation of the skin and stimulate epidermal renewal, fight against the signs of aging skin, improve the radiance of the complexion and / or smooth the skin of the face. In the application FR-A62921255 these compounds are also described for their use as a depigmenting agent.
Toutefois, l'introduction de ces composés précédemment cités dans des formulations cosmétiques sous forme d'émulsion, en particulier d'émulsion huile-dans-eau, peut altérer fortement la stabilité des compositions les comprenant, pouvant se traduire par exemple par une diminution non négligeable de la viscosité et/ou un déphasage de la composition. However, the introduction of these compounds mentioned above into cosmetic formulations in the form of an emulsion, in particular of an oil-in-water emulsion, can greatly impair the stability of the compositions comprising them, which can result, for example, in a decrease negligible viscosity and / or phase shift of the composition.
Cependant les compositions contenant des dérivés de l'acide cucurbique présentent des propriétés cosmétiques insuffisantes, notamment un toucher
collant, effet rêche, ce qui donne des compositions qui sont peu agréables à appliquer par un consommateur. However, the compositions containing derivatives of cucurbic acid have insufficient cosmetic properties, especially a touch sticky, rough effect, which gives compositions that are not pleasant to apply by a consumer.
Par ailleurs, les dérivés de l'acide cucurbique présentent également l'inconvénient d'être peu solubles, Il s'en suit une recristallisation de ces dérivés ce qui entraine une instabilité des formulations. Les dérivés de l'acide cucurbique ne sont alors plus disponibles pour agir sur la peau. Moreover, the derivatives of cucurbic acid also have the disadvantage of being poorly soluble, It follows a recrystallization of these derivatives which causes instability of the formulations. The derivatives of cucurbic acid are then no longer available to act on the skin.
Il est connu d'utiliser dans les préparations cosmétiques contenant de l'acide cucurbique ou ses dérivés des huiles et des émollients qui ont pour rôle d'assouplir, d'adoucir, d'hydrater et d'améliorer le confort de la peau. Cependant ces huiles ne permettent pas de maintenir la stabilité des dérivés d'acide cucurbique tout en ayant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques. It is known to use in cosmetics containing cucurbic acid or its derivatives oils and emollients whose role is to soften, soften, moisturize and improve the comfort of the skin. However, these oils do not make it possible to maintain the stability of the cucurbic acid derivatives while having good cosmetic properties.
Ainsi, il existe un besoin de disposer de compositions comprenant des composés d'acide cucurbique, qui soient stables et qui présentent de bonne propriétés cosmétiques, notamment un toucher dont la texture est non grasse, non collante. Par ailleurs les compositions ont un aspect lisse et brillant. Thus, there is a need for compositions comprising cucurbic acid compounds, which are stable and which have good cosmetic properties, especially a touch whose texture is non-greasy, non-sticky. Moreover, the compositions have a smooth and shiny appearance.
De manière surprenante, les inventeurs ont observé que l'utilisation d'un composé d'acide cucurbique en association avec une huile polaire particulière permet de réaliser de tels objectifs. Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a cucurbic acid compound in combination with a particular polar oil makes it possible to achieve such objectives.
Plus précisément, la présente invention concerne une composition comprenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- au moins un composé d'acide cucurbique, notamment de formule (I) suivante : at least one cucurbic acid compound, in particular of formula (I) below:
dans laquelle :
Ri représente un radical COOR3, R3 désignant un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1 -C4 , éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ; in which : R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
R2 représente un radical hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones, ou ramifié ou cyclique ayant de 3 àR2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having from 3 to
18 atomes de carbone ; ainsi que leurs isomères optiques, et sels correspondants et 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts and
- au moins une huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée en C3-C4 de formule (II) ci-dessous. at least one (poly) oxyalkylenated (poly) C 3 -C 4 polar oil of formula (II) below.
Les compositions obtenues présentent une bonne stabilité dans le temps, un aspect agréable, et lors de leur application, de bonnes propriétés sensorielles. The compositions obtained have good stability over time, a pleasant appearance, and during their application, good sensory properties.
Par « composition stable », on entend une composition qui, après 24 heures de stockage à toutes températures comprises entre 4°C et 50°C, ne présente peu ou pas de changement macroscopique de couleur, d'odeur ou de viscosité, en particulier dans laquelle le composé d'acide cucurbique ne recristallise pas au cours du temps et/ou en fonction de la température. Selon encore un autre de ses objets, la présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement non thérapeutique de soin ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques comprenant l'application sur lesdites matières kératiniques d'une composition conforme à l'invention. Composé d'acide cucurbique. "Stable composition" means a composition which, after 24 hours of storage at all temperatures between 4 ° C and 50 ° C, shows little or no macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity, in particular wherein the cucurbic acid compound does not recrystallize over time and / or as a function of temperature. According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment care or makeup of keratin materials comprising the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. Cucurbic acid compound.
Le composé dérivé d'acide cucurbique est un composé choisi parmi ceux répondant à la formule (I) suivante :
The compound derived from cucurbic acid is a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I):
dans laquelle : in which :
Ri représente un radical COOR3, R3 désignant un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1 -C4 , éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ; R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
R2 représente un radical hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones, ou ramifié ou cyclique ayant de 3 à 18 atomes de carbone ; ainsi que leurs isomères optiques, et sels correspondants. R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts.
De préférence, Ri désigne un radical choisi parmi -COOH, -COOMe, -COO- CH2-CH3, -COO— CH2-CH(OH)-CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH , - COOCH2-CH(OH)-CH3 . Préférentiellement, Ri désigne un radical -COOH. Preferably, R 1 denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH 2 -CH 3, -COO-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 OH, -COOCH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 OH, - COOCH 2 -CH (OH) -CH3. Preferably, R 1 denotes a -COOH radical.
Préférentiellement, R2 désigne un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire, saturé ou insaturé, et de préférence ayant de 2 à 7 atomes de carbone. En particulier, R2 peut être un radical pentyl, pentenyl, hexyle, heptyle. Selon un mode de réalisation, le composé de formule (I) est choisi parmi l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-[(2Z)-2-pentenyl]-cyclopentane acétique ou l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique ou leurs sels. De préférence, le composé (I) est l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique ou ses sels; ce composé peut être notamment sous la forme de sel de sodium.
Les sels des composés utilisables selon l'invention sont en particulier choisis parmi les sels de métal alcalin, par exemple sodium, potassium ; les sels de métal alcalino-terreux, par exemple calcium, magnésium, strontium, les sels métalliques, par exemple zinc, aluminium, manganèse, cuivre ; les sels d'ammonium de formule NH4 + ; les sels d'ammonium quaternaires ; les sels d'amines organiques, comme par exemple les sels de méthylamine, de diméthylamine, de triméthylamine, de triéthylamine, d'éthylamine, de 2- hydroxyéthylamine, de bis-(2-hydroxyéthyl)amine, de la tri-(2- hydroxyéthyl)amine ; les sels de lysine, d'arginine. On utilise de préférence les sels choisis parmi les sels de sodium, potassium, magnésium, strontium, cuivre, manganèse, zinc. Préférentiellement, on utilise le sel de sodium. Preferentially, R 2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R 2 may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical. According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acid. acetic acid or their salts. Preferably, the compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid or its salts; this compound may especially be in the form of sodium salt. The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH 4 + ; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as for example the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used.
Le composé dérivé d'acide cucurbique de formule (I) défini précédemment peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids et mieux de 0,5 à 5% en poids. The cucurbic acid derivative compound of formula (I) defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight.
Huile polaire (polv)oxyalkylénée en C3-C4 Par huile polaire au sens de la présente invention, on entend une huile dont la tension superficielle correspond à la force par unité de longueur, exprimée en mN/m est supérieure à 20mN/m à température ambiante (25°C) et à pression atmosphérique. Ces huiles peuvent être de natures chimiques différentes telle que : des esters, des éthers, des alcanes, des alcools, des alcènes, des huiles végétales, d'origine naturelle ou synthétique, hydrocarbonés ou siliconés, linéaires ou ramifiés, polymérisés ou non. Selon l'invention, les huiles (poly)oxyalkylénées en C3-C4 ne comprennent généralement pas de groupements oxyéthylénés.
L'huile polaire selon l'invention selon l'invention a une tension superficielle supérieure à 15 mN/m, mieux supérieure à 20 mN/M et préférentiellement supérieure à 25 mN/m et plus particulièrement allant de 25 à 40 mN/m. C3-C4 oxyalkylenated polar oil (polv) Polar oil within the meaning of the present invention means an oil whose surface tension corresponds to the force per unit length, expressed in mN / m, is greater than 20 mN / m at temperature. ambient temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of different chemical natures such as: esters, ethers, alkanes, alcohols, alkenes, vegetable oils, of natural or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon or silicone, linear or branched, polymerized or not. According to the invention, the (poly) oxyalkylenated C 3 -C 4 oils generally do not comprise oxyethylenated groups. The polar oil according to the invention according to the invention has a surface tension greater than 15 mN / m, better still greater than 20 mN / M and preferably greater than 25 mN / m and more particularly ranging from 25 to 40 mN / m.
Méthode de mesure de la Tension de surface Surface Voltage Measurement Method
Tensiométrie tensiometry
La tension superficielle est mesurée selon les méthodes classiques, notamment selon la méthode de la goutte pendante et plus particulièrement selon la méthode de l'anneau de Du Nouy. The surface tension is measured according to conventional methods, in particular according to the method of the hanging drop and more particularly according to the method of the Du Nouy ring.
La technique de l'anneau de Du Nouy consiste à plonger un anneau de platine dans le liquide dont on cherche à mesurer la tension de surface puis à exercer une traction sur l'anneau vers l'interface liquide/air à température ambiante. Le tensiomètre va rechercher la force maximale à cette interface et la mesurer (figure k). Cette force s'écrit Pm et ne s'obtient pas directement ; elle subit une correction selon la géométrie de l'anneau. L'appareil calculera d'abord gs* appelé tension de surface mesurée. Elle s'obtient par la relation : gs* = Pm / [2TT(RÎ + Ro)] ; avec Ri et Ro les rayons respectivement intérieur et extérieur de l'anneau. Puis, il en déduira gs d'après la relation : gs= gs*.F ; où F est le facteur correcteur dépendant de la densité du liquide ainsi que du rapport des diamètres de l'anneau. The technique of the Du Nouy ring consists of immersing a platinum ring in the liquid whose surface tension is to be measured and then pulling the ring towards the liquid / air interface at room temperature. The monitor will search for the maximum force at this interface and measure it (Figure k). This force is written Pm and can not be obtained directly; it undergoes a correction according to the geometry of the ring. The device will first calculate gs * called measured surface tension. It is obtained by the relation: gs * = Pm / [2TT (Ri + Ro)]; with Ri and Ro respectively the inner and outer rays of the ring. Then he will deduce gs from the relation: gs = gs * .F; where F is the correction factor depending on the density of the liquid as well as the ratio of the diameters of the ring.
On effectue la manipulation avec un tensiomètre Kruss K12, le liquide est disposé dans un cristallisoir parfaitement nettoyé (cristallisoir de 46mm de diamètre ref GL5 de Kruss) et l'anneau est en platine iridié (ref RI01 de Kruss). L'appareil donne directement la tension superficielle en mN/m. The manipulation is carried out with a Kruss K12 tensiometer, the liquid is placed in a perfectly cleaned crystallizer (crystallizer 46mm in diameter ref GL5 Kruss) and the ring is in platinum iridium (ref RI01 Kruss). The device gives the surface tension directly in mN / m.
L'huile polaire selon l'invention est un composé (poly)oxyalkéné de formule (II): The polar oil according to the invention is a (poly) oxyalkene compound of formula (II):
R-O(AO)nH (II) RO (AO) n H (II)
dans laquelle in which
R représente un radical alkyl ou acyle, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé en C1 -C22, de préférence en C3-C18 ;
AO représente un groupe oxyalkyléné comprenant de 3 à 4 atomes de carbone, et de préférence 3, R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22, preferably C 3 -C 18, alkyl or acyl radical; AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 3,
n représente le nombre moyen de moles d'unités AO et n va de 1 à 100, de préférence de 3 à 50 et plus particulièrement de 5 à 20. n represents the average number of moles of AO units and n ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and more particularly from 5 to 20.
De préférence, R est un radical alkyle, de préférence en C1 -C22, mieux en C3- C18. Preferably, R is an alkyl radical, preferably C 1 -C 22, better still C 3 -C 18.
L'huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée de formule (II) selon l'invention est de préférence choisie parmi PPG-2 Butyl Ether ; PPG-3 Butyl Ether ; PPG-4 ButylThe polar (poly) oxyalkylenated oil of formula (II) according to the invention is preferably chosen from PPG-2 butyl ether; PPG-3 butyl ether; PPG-4 Butyl
Ether ; PPG-5 Butyl Ether ; PPG-9 Butyl Ether ; PPG-12 Butyl E ther ; PPG-14Ether; PPG-5 butyl ether; PPG-9 butyl ether; PPG-12 butyl ether; PPG-14
Butyl Ether ;PPG-15 Butyl Ether ;PPG-16 Butyl Ether ; PPG-17 Butyl Ether ;Butyl Ether, PPG-15 Butyl Ether, PPG-16 Butyl Ether; PPG-17 Butyl Ether;
PPG-18 Butyl Ether ; PPG-20 Butyl Ether ; PPG-22 Butyl Ether ; PPG-24 ButylPPG-18 Butyl Ether; PPG-20 butyl ether; PPG-22 Butyl Ether; PPG-24 Butyl
Ether ; PPG-26 Butyl Ether ; PPG-30 Butyl Ether ; PPG-33 Butyl Ether ; PPG- 40 Butyl Ether ; PPG-52 Butyl Ether ; PPG-53 Butyl Ether ; PPG-3 CaprylylEther; PPG-26 Butyl Ether; PPG-30 Butyl Ether; PPG-33 Butyl Ether; PPG-Butyl Ether; PPG-52 Butyl Ether; PPG-53 Butyl Ether; PPG-3 Caprylyl
Ether ; PPG-4 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-6 Caprylyl Ether ;Ether; PPG-4 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-6 Caprylyl Ether;
PPG-10 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether ;PPG-20 Cetyl éther ; PPG-28PPG-10 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether, PPG-20 Cetyl Ether; PPG-28
Cetyl Ether ; PPG-30 Cetyl Ether ; PPG-50 Cetyl Ether ; PPG-4 Lauryl Ether ;Cetyl ether; PPG-30 Cetyl Ether; PPG-50 Cetyl Ether; PPG-4 Lauryl Ether;
PPG-7 Lauryl Ether ; PPG-10 Lauryl Ether ;PPG-2 Methyl Ether ;PPG-3 Methyl Ether ; PPG-4 Methyl Ether ;PPG-3 Myristyl Ether ; PPG-4 Myristyl Ether ;PPG-PPG-7 Lauryl Ether; PPG-10 Lauryl Ether, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Methyl Ether; PPG-4 Methyl Ether PPG-3 Myristyl Ether; PPG-4 Myristyl Ether; PPG-
10 Oleyl Ether ;PPG-20 Oleyl Ether ;PPG-23 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-30 Oleyl Ether ;Oleyl Ether, PPG-20 Oleyl Ether, PPG-23 Oleyl Ether; PPG-30 Oleyl Ether;
PPG-37 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-50 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-1 1 Stearyl Ether ; PPG-15PPG-37 Oleyl Ether; PPG-50 Oleyl Ether; PPG-1 1 Stearyl Ether; PPG-15
Stearyl Ether et leurs mélanges. Stearyl Ether and their mixtures.
(PPG signifie PolyPropylene Glycol) (PPG stands for PolyPropylene Glycol)
De préférence, l'huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée selon l'invention est le PPG- 15 Stearyl éther, le PPG-3 Myristyl Ether, le PPG-12 Butyl Ether, PPG-10 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether ;PPG-20 Cetyl éther, PPG-10 Oleyl Ether ;PPG-20 Oleyl Ether ;PPG-23 Oleyl Ether et plus particulièrement le PPG-15 Stearyl Ether et le PPG-3 myristyl Ether, encore mieux le PPG-15 Stearyl Ether.
L'huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée en C3-C4 selon l'invention est généralement présente dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur pouvant aller de 0,1 % à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0,5 % à 10% en poids, et mieux de 1 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Preferably, the (poly) oxyalkylenated (polar) polar oil according to the invention is PPG-Stearyl ether, PPG-3 Myristyl ether, PPG-12 butyl ether, PPG-10 caprylyl ether; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether, PPG-20 Cetyl Ether, PPG-10 Oleyl Ether, PPG-20 Oleyl Ether, PPG-23 Oleyl Ether and more particularly PPG-15 Stearyl Ether and PPG-3 Myristyl Ether, even better PPG -15 Stearyl Ether. The (poly) oxyalkylenated C 3 -C 4 polar oil according to the invention is generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions utilisées selon l'invention comprennent un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire compatible avec les matières kératiniques d'êtres humains tels que la peau , le cuir chevelu, les cheveux, les ongles. The compositions used according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the nails.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous forme de solutions aqueuses, de solutions hydroalcooliques, d'émulsions huile-dans-eau (H/E) ou eau-dans-huile (E/H) ou multiple (triple : E/H/E ou H/E/H), de gels aqueux. Les compositions peuvent également être anhydres. Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles. The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: E / W) emulsions. H / E or H / E / H), aqueous gels. The compositions can also be anhydrous. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable peut comprendre de l'eau, des solvants organiques tels qu'un alcool en Ci-C8, notamment l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le tert-butanol, le n-butanol; un polyol tel que la glycérine ; un glycol comme le butylène glycol, l'isoprène glycol, le propylène glycol, les polyéthylène glycols tels que le PEG-8 ; les éthers de polyol. Lorsque la composition est une émulsion, la proportion de la phase grasse peut aller de 5% à 80% en poids, et de préférence de 5% à 50% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les huiles, les cires, les émulsionnants et les coémulsionnants utilisés dans la composition sous forme d'émulsion sont choisis parmi ceux classiquement utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique. L'émulsionnant et le coémulsionnant sont présents, dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,3% à 30% en poids, et de
préférence de 0,5 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. L'émulsion peut, en outre, contenir des vésicules lipidiques. The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water, organic solvents such as a C 1 -C 8 alcohol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol; a polyol such as glycerine; a glycol such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; polyol ethers. When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, the waxes, the emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.
Lorsque la composition est une solution ou un gel huileux, la phase grasse peut représenter plus de 90% du poids total de la composition. When the composition is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut comporter une quantité de phase aqueuse qui peut aller par exemple de 30 à 97 % en poids, de préférence de 40 à 95 % en poids et mieux de 50 à 90 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of aqueous phase which may range, for example, from 30 to 97% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight and better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La phase aqueuse comprend de l'eau et tout autre composé hydrosoluble éventuellement présent, tels que notamment les solvants et additifs hydrosolubles (par exemple tensioactifs hydrophiles et actifs). Comme solvants hydrosolubles, on peut citer notamment les alcools inférieurs et les polyols. On entend par alcool inférieur, les alcools comportant de 1 à 8 et plus particulièrement de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, tels que l'éthanol. Comme polyols, on peut citer par exemple la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol et les polyéthylène glycols (PEG-8 par exemple). Ces alcools et/ou polyols peuvent être présents dans la composition en une quantité allant de préférence de 0,1 à 25 % et de 1 à 15 % du poids total de la composition. The aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as, in particular, water-soluble solvents and additives (for example hydrophilic and active surfactants). As water-soluble solvents, mention may be made in particular of lower alcohols and polyols. The term "lower alcohol" is understood to mean alcohols containing from 1 to 8 and more particularly from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols (for example PEG-8). These alcohols and / or polyols may be present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 0.1 to 25% and from 1 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.
La composition comprend une phase grasse qui comprend au moins l'huile polaire selon l'invention. The composition comprises a fatty phase which comprises at least the polar oil according to the invention.
La phase grasse est constituée des huiles et de tous les autres corps gras et constituants lipophiles pouvant être présents dans la composition de l'invention. Toutes les huiles cosmétiquement acceptables peuvent être utilisées.
On entend par "huile" un corps gras liquide à température ambiante (25°C) et pression atmosphérique. The fatty phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. All cosmetically acceptable oils can be used. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.
Comme huile, on peut citer par exemple : As oil, for example:
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène et le squalane ; hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité ; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R1COOR2 et R1OR2 dans laquelle R1 représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2- dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle (Prisorine 3631 ) ; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or 2-ethyl palmitate; hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);
- les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam ;
- les alcanes linéaires volatils, avantageusement d'origine végétale, comprenant de 7 à 17 atomes de carbone, en particulier de 9 à 15 atomes de carbone, et plus particulièrement de 1 1 à 13 atomes de carbone. A titre d'exemples d'alcanes linéaires volatils convenant à l'invention, on peut mentionner ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet de la société Cognis WO 2007/068371 . A titre d'exemple d'alcane linéaire volatil convenant à l'invention, on peut citer le n-nonane (C9), le n-décane (d0), le n-undécane (Cn), le n- dodécane (C-i2), le n-tridécane (C-i3), le n-tétradecane (Ci4), le n-pentadécane (Ci5), le n-héxadécane (de) et le n-heptadécane (C-i7) et leurs mélanges. Selon un mode de réalisation, on utilisera un mélange d'undécane (Cn) et de tridécane (C-i3) comme obtenu aux exemples 1 et 2 de la demande WO2008/155059 de la Société Cognis. On peut également citer le n-dodécane (C12) et le n-tétradécane (C14) tels que ceux vendus par Sasol respectivement sous les références PARAFOL 12-97 et PARAFOL 14-97, ainsi que leurs mélanges. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371. By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C 9 ), n-decane (d 0 ), n-undecane (C n), n-dodecane ( Ci 2 ), n-tridecane (Ci 3 ), n-tetradecane (C 4 ), n-pentadecane (C 5 ), n-hexadecane (de) and n-heptadecane (C 7 ) and mixtures thereof . According to one embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cn) and tridecane (Ci 3 ) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.
- les huiles de silicone, comme par exemple les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexasiloxane et la cyclopentasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes (ou diméthicones) comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique) ; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol);
- les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912 ; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
- et leurs mélanges.
On peut citer également les huiles choisies parmi : - and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of the oils chosen from:
- les esters issus de la réaction d'au moins un acide gras comportant au moins 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 6 à 26 atomes de carbone et mieux de 6 à 20 atomes de carbone, encore mieux de 6 à 16 atomes de carbone et d'au moins un alcool comprenant de 1 à 17 atomes de carbone et mieux de 3 à 15 atomes de carbone ; on peut citer notamment le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle le caprate/caprylate d'ethyl2-hexyle (ou caprate/caprylate d'octyle), le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le laurate d'hexyle, les esters d'acide lactique et d'alcools gras comprenant 12 ou 13 atomes de carbone, le carbonate de dicaprylyle tel que celui qui est commercialisé sous la dénomination CETIOL CC par la société COGNIS, the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and at least one alcohol comprising 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company Cognis,
- les éthers d'acide gras comprenant de 6 à 20 atomes de carbone tel que le dicaprylyl éther (Cetiol OE de Cognis), fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),
- les éthers de glycérol comprenant de 6 à 12 atomes de carbone comme le 2- éthyl hexyle éther de glycérol ( nom INCI : ethylhexylglyce n) tel que le Sensiva SC 50 de la société Schulke & Mayr GmbH, glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglyce n), such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH,
La phase grasse peut être présente dans la composition selon l'invention en une quantité allant de 5 à 60 %, mieux allant de 5 à 50 % et de préférence de 10 à 40 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Cette quantité n'inclue pas l'émulsionnant ester d'acide gras polyhydroxylé et de polyalkylène glycol. The fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5 to 60%, better still from 5 to 50% and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount does not include the polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyalkylene glycol ester emulsifier.
En particulier, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre de 5 à 40 % et de préférence de 10 à 30 % en poids d'huiles par rapport au poids total de la composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 40% and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
En plus des huiles indiquées ci-dessus, la composition de l'invention peut contenir d'autres corps gras dans la phase grasse, tels que les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique ; les résines de silicone telles que la trifluorométhyl-C1 -4-alkyldimethicone et la
trifluoropropyldimethicone ; les gommes de silicone (dimethiconol), les élastomères de silicone non émulsionnants, comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations « KSG 6» ou « KSG 16» par la société Shin-Etsu, sous les dénominations « Trefil », « BY29 » ou « EPSX » par la société Dow Corning ou sous les dénominations « Gransil » par la société Grant Industries ; les cires, par exemple les cires minérales, les cires d'origine animale comme la cire d'abeille, les cires d'origine végétale, les huiles hydrogénées concrètes à 25°C, les esters gras et les glycérides concrets à 25°C, les cires synthétiques, les cires de silicone ; les corps gras pâteux comme et aussi les beurres tels que le beurre de karité, le beurre de cacao, le beurre de shorea, le beurre de muru muru, le beurre de cupuac, et leurs mélanges. In addition to the oils mentioned above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the fatty phase, such as fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and the trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names "KSG 6" or "KSG 16" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or " EPSX "by Dow Corning or under the names" Gransil "by Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. synthetic waxes, silicone waxes; pasty fatty substances as and also butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, muru muru butter, cupuac butter, and mixtures thereof.
Emulsionnants emulsifiers
Selon un mode de réalisation, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un ou plusieurs émulsionnant (ou tensioactif). According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more emulsifier (or surfactant).
L'émulsionnant peut être choisi par exemple parmi les émulsionnants non ioniques dérivés d'acide gras et de polyol, les polyoléfines à terminaison succinique, et leurs mélanges. The emulsifier may be chosen for example from nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, succinic-terminated polyolefins, and mixtures thereof.
Comme polyoléfines à terminaison succinique, on peut citer notamment les polyisobutylènes à terminaison succinique estérifiée et leurs sels, notamment les sels de diéthanolamine, tels que les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 et Lubrizol 5603 par la société Lubrizol. As succinically terminated polyolefins, mention may be made in particular of esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol.
De préférence, l'émulsionnant est choisi parmi les esters d'acide gras et de polyols.
Par 'esters d'acide gras et de polyols' selon l'invention, on entend des esters d'acide gras et de polyol dans lesquels l'acide gras comprend une chaîne alkyle en C6-C22, de préférence en Ci6-C2o, et le polyol est choisi parmi le glycérol, un polyglycérol, le sorbitan, et leurs mélanges. L'acide gras peut 5 également être sous une forme polymérique, comme c'est le cas de l'acide polyhydroxystéarique (polymère de l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique). Preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters and polyols. By fatty acid esters of polyols' according to the invention is understood to mean fatty acid esters of polyols, wherein the fatty acid comprises an alkyl chain C 6 -C 2 2, preferably C 6 -C 2 o, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, a polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid may also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (12-hydroxystearic acid polymer).
Selon un mode particulier, l'ester d'acide gras et de polyol est un ester d'acide gras en Ci6-C2o et de glycérol et/ou de sorbitan, et leurs mélanges. In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a C 6 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
10 Comme exemples d'acides gras à chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée en Ci6-C2o, on peut citer l'acide stéarique, l'acide isostéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide myristique, l'acide palmitique. Comme exemple de polymère d'acide gras en C16-C20, on peut citer l'acide poly12-hydroxystéarique. Examples of linear or branched C 6 -C 20 fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer is poly12-hydroxystearic acid.
De préférence on utilisera l'acide stéarique, isostéarique, l'acide poly^- l ô hydroxystéarique et leurs mélanges. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, poly (1-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof are used.
Par polyglycérols, on entend des composés de formule
dans laquelle le degré de condensation n va de 1 à 1 1 , de préférence de 2 à 6 20 et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 6. By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 1 1, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6.
Selon un mode particulier, l'ester d'acide gras et de polyol contient 2 à 10 moles (unités) de polyols, de préférence 2 à 4 moles de polyols, en particulier 2 à 4 unités de glycérol ou un mélange de polyglycérols (glycérol, di-, tri-, tetra- 25 , penta-, oligoglycerols). According to one particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol). , di-, tri-, tetra-25, penta-, oligoglycerols).
Encore plus préférentiellement, l'ester d'acide gras et de polyol contient 4 moles ou unités) de polyol, en particulier 4 moles (ou unités) de glycérol.
Selon un mode préféré, ledit ester d'acide gras et de polyol est en outre un ester d'acide gras, de diacide carboxylique ayant de 2 à 16 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 8 à 14 atomes de carbone, tels que l'acide azélaïque, l'acide sébacique, l'acide dodecanedioique, et de préférence l'acide sébacique (d0), et de polyol. Even more preferably, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles or units) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol. According to a preferred embodiment, said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (d 0 ), and polyol.
A titre d'exemples d'esters d'acide gras et de polyol utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer les esters d'acide isostéarique et de polyols et leurs mélanges, en particulier les esters d'acide isostéarique et de glycérol et/ou de sorbitan, tels que par exemple l'isostéarate polyglycérolé (4 moles) (nom INCI : Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) vendu sous la dénomination Isolan GI34® par la société Goldschmidt, le diisostéarate polyglycérolé (3 moles) vendu sous la dénomination Lameform TGI® par la société Cognis ; le distéarate polyglycérolé (2 moles) vendu sous la dénomination Emalex PGSA® par la société Nihon emulsion ; le monoisostearate polyglycérolé (10 moles) vendu sous la dénomination Nikkol decaglyn 1 -IS par la société Nihon Surfactant (Nom INCI : Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate) ; le polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate polyhydroxystéarate sébacate vendu sous la dénomination ISOLAN GPS par Goldschmidt ; le mélange d"isostéarate de sorbitan et d'isostéarate de glycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 986 par la société ICI, le mélange d'isostéarate de sorbitan et d'isostéarate de polyglycérol (3 moles) commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 1690 par la société Uniquema, le mélange d'isostéarate de sorbitan et d'isostéarate de polyglycérol (3 moles) commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 1690® par la société Uniquema et leurs mélanges. As examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid and polyol esters and their mixtures, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate) sold under the name Isolan ® GI34 by Goldschmidt, the diisostearate polyglycerolated (3 mol) sold under the Lameform TGI ® denomination by Cognis; distearate polyglycerolated (2 mol) sold under the name Emalex PGSA ® by Nihon emulsion society; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1 -IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690 by Uniqema, mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel ® 1690 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
On peut également citer les tensioactifs siliconés tels que les dimethicone copolyols et alkyl dimethicone copolyols tels que le mélange de cyclomethicone et de dimethicone copolyol, vendu sous la dénomination « DC 5225 C » par la société Dow Corning, le Laurylmethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" par la société Dow
Corning et le Cetyl dimethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination Abil EM 90R par la société Goldschmidt. Mention may also be made of silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt.
De préférence, l'émulsionnant est choisi parmi les esters d'acide gras, de préférence en Ci6-C2o, en particulier l'acide stéarique ou l'acide isostéarique, et de polyol choisi parmi le glycérol et/ou le sorbitan. Preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably C 6 -C 2 o, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyol chosen from glycerol and / or sorbitan .
L'émulsionnant peut être présente une teneur (en matières sèches) allant de 0,05 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,1 à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The emulsifier may be present in a content (of solids) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.
Additifs additives
De façon connue, la composition pour application topique de l'invention peut contenir également un ou plusieurs des adjuvants habituels dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique. Comme adjuvants, on peut citer par les épaississants, les actifs, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les parfums, les solvants, les sels, les charges, les filtres solaires (= filtres U.V.) minéraux ou organiques, les matières colorantes, les agents basiques (triéthanolamine, diéthanolamine, hydroxyde de sodium) ou acides (acide citrique), et leurs mélanges. Ces adjuvants sont utilisés dans les proportions habituelles dans le domaine cosmétique, et par exemple de 0,01 à 30 % du poids total de la composition, et ils sont, selon leur nature, introduits dans la phase aqueuse de la composition ou dans la phase huileuse, ou encore dans des vésicules ou tout autre type de vecteur. Ces adjuvants ainsi que leurs concentrations doivent être tels qu'ils ne modifient pas les propriétés recherchées pour la composition de l'invention. In known manner, the composition for topical application of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As adjuvants, mention may be made of thickeners, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, salts, fillers, sunscreens (= UV filters), inorganic or organic, dyestuffs, basic agents. (triethanolamine, diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide) or acids (citric acid), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties desired for the composition of the invention.
Selon la viscosité désirée pour la composition selon l'invention, on peut y incorporer un ou plusieurs épaississants hydrophiles. On peut citer par exemple les polymères carboxyvinyliques modifiés ou non, tels que les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Carbopol (nom INCI : carbomer) par la
société Noveon ; les polyacrylamides ; les polymères et copolymères d'acide 2- acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, éventuellement réticulés et/ou neutralisés, comme le poly(acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique) commercialisé par la société Clariant sous la dénomination « Hostacerin AMPS » (nom INCI : ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; les copolymères anioniques réticulés d'acrylamide et d'AMPS, se présentant sous la forme d'une émulsion E/H, tels ceux commercialisés sous le nom de SEPIGEL 305 (nom C.T.F.A. : Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) et sous le nom de SIMULGEL 600 (nom C.T.F.A. Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) par la société SEPPIC ; les biopolymères polysaccharidiques comme la gomme de xanthane, la gomme guar, les alginates, les celluloses modifiées ou non ; et leurs mélanges. Quand ils sont présents, ces gélifiants doivent être introduits en quantité telle qu'ils ne modifient pas les propriétés de la composition selon l'invention. Comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer notamment les argiles modifiées telles que le silicate de magnésium modifié (bentone gel VS38 de RHEOX), l'hectorite modifiée par le chlorure de distéaryl diméthyl ammonium (nom INCI : Disteardimonium hectorite) commercialisé sous la dénomination « bentone 38 CE » par la société RHEOX. Depending on the viscosity desired for the composition according to the invention, one or more hydrophilic thickeners may be incorporated therein. For example, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol Noveon company; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name) ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and their mixtures. When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in such a quantity that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), and hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed under the name "bentone". 38 EC "by the company RHEOX.
Comme actifs utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple, les agents hydratants tels que les hydrolysats de protéines ; le hyaluronate de sodium ; les polyols comme la glycérine, les glycols comme les polyéthylène glycols, et les dérivés de sucre ; les anti-inflammatoires ; les oligomères procyannidoliques ; les vitamines comme la vitamine A (rétinol), la vitamine E (tocophérol), la vitamine K, la vitamine C (acide ascorbique), la vitamine B5 (panthénol), la vitamine B3 ou PP (niacinamide), les dérivés de ces vitamines (notamment esters) et leurs mélanges ; les agents kératolytiques et/ou desquamants tels que l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés, les alpha- hydroxyacides comme l'acide lactique et l'acide glycolique et leurs dérivés, l'acide ascorbique et ses dérivés ; l'urée ; la caféine ; les dépigmentants tels
que l'acide kojique, l'hydroquinone et l'acide caféique ; l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés ; les rétinoïdes tels que les caroténoïdes et les dérivés de vitamine A ; l'hydrocortisone ; la mélatonine ; les agents autobronzants tels que la DHA, les extraits d'algues, de champignons, de végétaux, de levures, de bactéries ; les stéroïdes ; les actifs anti-bactériens comme le 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphényl éther (ou triclosan), le 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (ou triclocarban) et les acides indiqués ci-dessus et notamment l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés ; les enzymes ; les flavonoïdes ; les agents tenseurs tels que les polymères synthétiques, les protéines végétales, les polysaccharides d'origine végétale, les amidons, les dispersions de cires, les silicates mixtes et les particules colloïdales de charges inorganiques ; les céramides ; les agents antiinflammatoires ; les agents apaisants ; les agents matifiants ; les agents antichute et/ou repousse des cheveux ; les agents anti-rides ; les huiles essentielles ; et leurs mélanges ; et tout actif approprié pour le but final de la composition. As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; self-tanning agents such as DHA, extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes; flavonoids; tensing agents such as synthetic polymers, plant proteins, polysaccharides of vegetable origin, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; ceramides; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; mattifying agents; agents for preventing and / or regrowing hair; anti-wrinkle agents; essential oils ; and their mixtures; and any suitable asset for the ultimate purpose of the composition.
Une composition de l'invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques envisageables. A composition of the invention may be in any conceivable galenic form.
Notamment, la composition peut avoir la forme de solution aqueuse, alcoolique, hydroalcoolique ou huileuse; de dispersion du type lotion ou sérum; d'émulsion eau-dans-huile, huile-dans-eau ou multiple; de suspension; de microcapsules ou microparticules; de dispersions vésiculaires de type ionique et/ou non ionique; de lotion aqueuse, huileuse ou sous forme de sérum; de capsules, de granulés, de sirops, de comprimés; de mousse, de préparation solide; de composition pour aérosol comprenant également un agent propulseur sous pression. In particular, the composition may have the form of aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or oily solution; dispersion of the lotion or serum type; water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion; suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type; aqueous, oily or serum lotion; capsules, granules, syrups, tablets; foam, solid preparation; aerosol composition composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.
Une composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous la forme d'une composition pour soin capillaire, notamment un shampooing, une lotion de mise en plis, une lotion traitante, une crème ou un gel coiffant, une composition de teinture, notamment d'oxydation, des lotions restructurantes pour les
cheveux, une composition de permanente (notamment une composition pour le premier temps d'une permanente), une lotion ou un gel antichute, un shampooing antiparasitaire. Elle peut également se présenter sous la forme d'une composition de nettoyage, de protection, de traitement ou de soin pour le visage, pour les mains, pour les pieds, pour les grands plis anatomiques ou pour le corps (par exemple crèmes de jour, crème de nuit, crème démaquillante, composition antisolaire, lait corporels de protection ou de soin, laits après-solaire, lotion, gel ou mousse pour le soin de la peau, comme des lotion de nettoyage, composition de bronzage artificiel); une composition de maquillage du corps ou du visage telle qu'un fond de teint; une composition pour le bain; une composition désodorisante comprenant par exemple un agent bactéricide; une composition après-rasage; une composition épilatoire; une composition contre les piqûres d'insectes; une composition anti-douleur ; une composition dermatologique ou pharmaceutique pour traiter certaines maladies de la peau comme l'eczéma, la rosacée, le psoriasis, les lichens, les prurits sévères. A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for hair, a composition of permanent (including a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or a fall protection gel, a pest control shampoo. It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams). , night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition); a makeup composition for the body or the face such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; an anti-pain composition; a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus.
Lorsqu'une composition selon l'invention est destinée à un usage de type peeling, elle peut également se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques évoquées ci-dessus pour autant qu'elle s'élimine facilement par rinçage, et notamment sous forme de gel aqueux, de solution aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique. When a composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution.
Une composition selon l'invention peut être appliquée par tout moyen permettant une répartition uniforme et notamment à l'aide d'un coton, d'une tige, d'un pinceau, d'une gaze, d'une spatule ou d'un tampon, ou encore par pulvérisation, et peut être éliminée par rinçage à l'eau ou à l'aide d'un détergent doux. Une composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous une forme fluide de type liquide vaporisable ou non, sous forme de pâte, de gel ou de support
imprégné, sous forme solide, notamment compacte, pulvérulente ou coulée ou sous une forme de stick. A composition according to the invention may be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, and may be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent. A composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of liquid type vaporizable or not, in the form of paste, gel or support impregnated, in solid form, in particular compact, pulverulent or cast or in a stick form.
Une composition selon l'invention peut également se présenter sous la forme d'un produit de soin, d'un produit solaire ou après solaire, d'un produit de soin de photo-protection quotidienne, d'un produit pour le corps, d'un fond de teint à appliquer sur le visage ou sur le cou, d'un produit anti-cernes, d'un correcteur de teint, d'une crème teintée ou d'une base de maquillage pour le maquillage pour le visage ou d'une composition de maquillage pour le corps. A composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, d a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for face makeup or a makeup composition for the body.
Une composition selon l'invention peut être mise en œuvre à des fins d'amélioration de l'état général d'un épiderme, en particulier de la peau, et notamment pour le maintient ou la restauration de ses fonctions physiologiques et/ou de son aspect esthétique. A composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular of the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance.
Ainsi, une composition selon l'invention peut être avantageusement mise en œuvre afin de lutter contre le vieillissement de l'épiderme, maintenir et/ou stimuler l'hydratation et/ou lutter contre le dessèchement de la peau, améliorer la tonicité de la peau, maintenir ou restaurer la souplesse et l'élasticité de la peau, améliorer la minéralisation de l'épiderme, améliorer la vitalité de l'épiderme, faciliter les échanges inter-cellulaires, et lutter contre les gerçures et l'aspect craquelé de la peau. Thus, a composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against cracking and the cracked appearance of the skin .
Une composition selon l'invention peut être destinée à une application cosmétique et/ou dermatologique. A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention ressortiront mieux des exemples qui suivent, donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif. Dans ce qui suit ou ce qui précède, les proportions sont données en pourcentage pondéral, sauf indications contraires.
Exemples 1 à 5 Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated. Examples 1 to 5
On a réalisé une émulsion H/E (exemplel) comprenant une huile polaire selon l'invention et 3 émulsions (exemples 2 à 4) comparatives comprenant des huiles hors invention, et on a observé la stabilité de ces compositions. An O / W emulsion (exemplel) comprising a polar oil according to the invention and 3 comparative emulsions (Examples 2 to 4) comprising oils outside the invention, and the stability of these compositions was observed.
Phase 1 2 3 4 5Phase 1 2 3 4 5
A1 Alcool cétylique 1,7 1,7 1,7 1,7 1,7 A1 Cetyl alcohol 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7
Alcool béhénylique 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 Behenyl alcohol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Acide stéarique 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1Stearic acid 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1
Mélange d'alcools en Ci4-C22 Mixture of C 4 -C 2 alcohols 2
et Ci4-C2o alkylglucoside and Ci 4 -C 2 o alkylglucoside
0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 (80/20) (MONTANOV 68® de 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 (80/20) ( 68 MONTANOV ® of
SEPPIC) SEPPIC)
POLOXAMER 338 POLOXAMER 338
(Synperonic PE/F 108 de 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 CRODA) (Synperonic PE / F 108 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 CRODA)
PEG-100 STEARATE PEG-100 STEARATE
0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 (Myrj S100-PA de CRODA) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 (Myrj S100-PA from CRODA)
A2 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER A2 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER
3 3
(Arlamol® PS15E de CRODA) (Arlamol® PS15E from CRODA)
PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLH EXANOATE PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLH EXANOATE
3 3
(DUB PTO de STEARINERIE (DUB PTO from STEARINERIE
DUBOIS) DUBOIS)
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
(DUB B1215de 3 (DUB B1215de 3
STEARINERIE DUBOIS) STEARINERIE DUBOIS)
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC
3 3
TRIGLYCERIDE
(DUB MCT 7030 de TRIGLYCERIDES (DUB MCT 7030 from
STEARINERIE DUBOIS) STEARINERIE DUBOIS)
PPG-3 MYRISTYL ETHER PPG-3 MYRISTYL ETHER
(TEGOSOFT APM de 3 EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) (TEGOSOFT APM of 3 EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT)
A3 ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 2,6 A3 ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 2,6
DIMETHICONE 350 CST DIMETHICONE 350 CST
(BELSIL DM 350 de 0,5 WACKER) (BELSIL DM 350 of 0.5 WACKER)
Octyldodécanol 3 Octyldodecanol 3
CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC
0,3 ACID 0.3 ACID
Conservateurs 0,9 Conservatives 0.9
Adenosine 0909 de CHENG Adenosine 0909 from CHENG
0,1 Yl PHARMACEUTICAL) 0.1 Yl PHARMACEUTICAL)
B Eau 25 B Water 25
Glycérine 8 Glycerin 8
DISODIUM EDTA 0,1DISODIUM EDTA 0.1
C Eau QSP 100%C Water QSP 100%
D Sel de sodium de l'acide 3- hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentan D Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentanic acid
e acétique à 30 % dans un 6,7% (2%MA) mélange eau/dipropylène 30% acetic acid in a 6.7% (2% MA) water / dipropylene mixture
glycol (70/30). glycol (70/30).
E DIMETHICONE 6 CST E DIMETHICONE 6 CST
(Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone
6,6 Fluid 5CS de DOW 6,6 Fluid 5CS from DOW
CORNING) CORNING)
CARBOMER (Carbopol Ultrez CARBOMER (Carbopol Ultrez
0,5 10 Polymer de LUBRIZOL)
Homopolymère d'acide 0.5 10 Polymer of LUBRIZOL) Homopolymer of acid
acrylamidométhyl propane acrylamidomethyl propane
sulfonique réticulé 0,8 (HOSTACERIN AMPS® de Crosslinked sulfonic acid 0.8 (HOSTACERIN AMPS® from
CLARIANT) Clariant)
SODIUM HYALURONATE SODIUM HYALURONATE
0,1 0.1
(Cristal Hyal de SOLIANCE) (Hyal Crystal from SOLIANCE)
F Hydroxyde de sodium en F Sodium hydroxide in
solution aqueuse à 30% de qs pH 6 matière active 30% aqueous solution of qs pH 6 active ingredient
G Mélange (50/50 en poids) de G Blend (50/50 by weight) of
Cire de poly tétrafluoro Polytetrafluoro wax
éthylène (Fluoropure 103 C Ethylene (Fluoropure 103 C
2 de SHAMROCK 2 of SHAMROCK
TECHNOLOGIE et de TECHNOLOGY and
Polyéthylène( Micropoly 220 L Polyethylene (Micropoly 220 L
de MICRO POWDERS) from MICRO POWDERS)
Mode Opératoire : Operating mode:
- Peser toutes les MPs de A ensemble et chauffer vers 75°C-80°C sous Rayneri - Weigh all the MPs of A together and heat to 75 ° C-80 ° C under Rayneri
- Solubiliser B à température ambiante sous agitation magnétique - Solubilize B at room temperature with magnetic stirring
- Émulsionner B dans A sous agitation forte - Emulsify B in A with strong stirring
- Ajouter la phase de dilution C - Add the dilution phase C
- Ajouter D - Add D
- Ajouter E (empâter les gélifiants dans la silicone sous Rayneri) - Ajouter F - Add E (soften gelling agents in silicone under Rayneri) - Add F
- Ajouter G
(invention) (invention)- Add G (invention) (invention)
Tension 30m N/m 28,9mN/ 32mN/m 29m N/m 30m N/m superficiell m Voltage 30m N / m 28,9mN / 32mN / m 29m N / m 30m N / m superficial
e phase phase
A2 A2
Stabilité 1 Stable Recristalli Recristallis Recristalli Stable mois 45°C Fine sation du ation du sation du Fine et 4°C dispersion dérivé dérivé dérivé dispersion homogène d'acide d'acide d'acide homogène cucurbiqu cucurbique cucurbiqu Stability 1 Stable Recrystalli Recristallis Recristalli Stable month 45 ° C Fine sation of the sation of Fine and 4 ° C dispersion derivative derived derivative homogeneous dispersion of acid acid of acid acid cucurbic cucurbic cucurbic
e à 4°C à 4°C e à 4°C e at 4 ° C to 4 ° C to 4 ° C
Les compositions selon l'invention (ex 1 et 5) contenant le sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique et l'huile polaire (poly)oxypropylénée sont stables et homogènes au moins 1 mois à 4°C et à 45°C, tandis que les compositions comprenant une huile hors invention ne contenant de groupes oxyalkylénés ne sont pas stables, ni homogènes. The compositions according to the invention (ex 1 and 5) containing the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid and polar (poly) oxypropylenated oil are stable and homogeneous for at least 1 month at 4. ° C and at 45 ° C, while the compositions comprising an oil outside the invention containing oxyalkylenated groups are not stable or homogeneous.
Les compositions 1 et 5 sont homogènes, lisses, brillantes et s'étalent facilement sur la peau, sans sensation de collant ni de gras, et sans peluchage. The compositions 1 and 5 are homogeneous, smooth, shiny and spread easily on the skin, without feeling sticky or greasy, and without linting.
Les compositions 2 ,3 et 4 sont mates et ne sont pas homogènes. Compositions 2, 3 and 4 are dull and are not homogeneous.
Exemple 6 : On prépare un lait solaire ayant la composition suivante : Example 6: A solar milk is prepared having the following composition:
PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E de CRODA) 4% PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E from CRODA) 4%
Glycérine 5% Glycerin 5%
Sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane
acétique à 30 % dans mélange eau/dipropylène glycol (70/30) 2% MASodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid 30% in water / dipropylene glycol (70/30) 2% MA
Conservateurs 0.3% Conservatives 0.3%
C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Tegosoft TN de Evonik/ Goldschmidt) 10% PEG-100 stearate/glycéryl stéarate (Arlacel 165 de C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Tegosoft TN from Evonik / Goldschmidt) 10% PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate (Arlacel 165 from
de Croda) 5% of Croda) 5%
Gomme de xanthane 0,5% Octocrylene (UVINUL N539 de BASF) 10% Xanthan Gum 0.5% Octocrylene (UVINUL N539 from BASF) 10%
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
(PARSOL 1789 par la société Hoffmann La Roche ) 3% (PARSOL 1789 by the company Hoffmann La Roche) 3%
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
(PARSOL MCX de Hoffmann La Roche) 7% Eau qsp 100% (PARSOL MCX from Hoffmann La Roche) 7% Water qs 100%
Exemple 7 : Emulsion hydratante matifiante Example 7 Mattifying Moisturizing Emulsion
On prépare la composition suivante : The following composition is prepared:
PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E de CRODA) 4% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E from CRODA) 4% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate
(CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) de Croda) 3% (CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) from Croda) 3%
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI34® de Goldschmidt) 1 % Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan ® GI34 Goldschmidt) 1%
Dicaprylyl carbonate 6% Dicaprylyl carbonate 6%
Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt
(DOW CORNING SH 200 C FLUID 10 CS de Dow Corning) 2% Vaseline 3% (DOW CORNING SH 200 C FLUID 10 CS Dow Corning) 2% Vaseline 3%
Silice 3% Silica 3%
Disteardimonium hectorite 0.4% Disteardimonium hectorite 0.4%
Glycérine 5% Glycerin 5%
Sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane
acétique à 30 % dans mélange eau/dipropylène glycol (70/30) 1 ,5% MA
Conservateurs 0,3% 30% acetic acid in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 1, 5% MA Conservatives 0.3%
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
Exemple 8 : Lait corporel hydratant Example 8: Moisturizing Body Milk
On prépare la composition suivante : The following composition is prepared:
PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E de CRODA) 1 ,5% Sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E from CRODA) 1, 5% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane
acétique à 30 % dans mélange eau/dipropylène glycol (70/30) 1 %MA30% acetic acid in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 1% MA
Conservateurs 0,3%Conservatives 0.3%
Glycérine 10% PEG-100 stearate/glycéryl stéarate (Arlacel 165 de Glycerin 10% PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate (Arlacel 165
de Croda) 2%of Croda) 2%
Dicaprylyl carbonate 10%Dicaprylyl carbonate 10%
Octyldodécanol 8%Octyldodecanol 8%
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
Exemple 9 : Fond de teint Example 9: Foundation
On prépare une composition de fond de teint : A foundation composition is prepared:
PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E de CRODA) PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER (ARLAMOL® PS15E from CRODA)
Sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane
acétique à 30 % dans mélange eau/dipropylène glycol (70/30) 2.4 % MA Conservateurs 0.3% 30% acetic acid in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 2.4% MA Preservatives 0.3%
Glycérine 10% Glycerin 10%
POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE (and) CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1
DIMETH ICONE (and) HEXYL LAURATE (ABIL WE 09 de Evonik/ POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE (and) CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETH ICON (and) HEXYL LAURATE (ABIL WE 09 from Evonik /
Goldschmidt) 10% Goldschmidt) 10%
Dicaprylyl carbonate 10% Dicaprylyl carbonate 10%
Oxyde de fer jaune enrobé 1 .6% Coated Yellow Iron Oxide 1 .6%
Oxyde de fer brun enrobé 0.4% Coated brown iron oxide 0.4%
Oxyde de fer noir enrobé 0.25% Coated black iron oxide 0.25%
Oxyde de titane enrobé 10% 10% coated titanium oxide
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Les compositions des exemples 6 à 9 ci-dessus sont stables. Demineralized water qs 100% The compositions of Examples 6 to 9 above are stable.
Les compositions appliquées sur la peau s'étalent facilement, sans sensation de collant ni de gras.
The compositions applied to the skin spread easily without feeling of stickiness or fat.
Claims
REVENDICATIONS
Composition comprenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : Composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- au moins un composé d'acide cucurbique notamment de formule (I) suivante : at least one cucurbic acid compound, especially of formula (I) below:
Ri représente un radical COOR3, R3 désignant un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1 -C4 , éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ; R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
R2 représente un radical hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones, ou ramifié ou cyclique ayant de 3 à 18 atomes de carbone ; ainsi que leurs isomères optiques, et sels correspondants etR2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts and
- au moins une huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée en C3-C4 de formule (II): at least one (poly) oxyalkylenated (C 3 -C 4) polar oil of formula (II):
R-O(AO)nH (II) RO (AO) n H (II)
dans laquelle in which
R représente un radical alkyl ou acyle, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé en C1 -C22, de préférence en C3-C18 ; R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22, preferably C 3 -C 18, alkyl or acyl radical;
AO représente un groupe oxyalkyléné comprenant de 3 à 4 atomes de carbone, et de préférence 3, AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 3,
n représente le nombre moyen de moles d'unités AO et n va de 1 à 100, de préférence de 3 à 50 et plus particulièrement de 5 à 20.
Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le composé (I) est tel que Ri désigne un radical choisi parmi -COOH, -COOMe, -n represents the average number of moles of AO units and n ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and more particularly from 5 to 20. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the compound (I) is such that R 1 denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -
COO-CH2-CH3, -COO— CH2-CH(OH)-CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH,COO-CH 2 -CH 3 , -COO-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 OH, -COOCH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 OH,
-COOCH2-CH(OH)-CH3 ; R2 désigne un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire, saturé ou insaturé, ayant de 2 à 7 atomes de carbone. -COOCH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 3; R 2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.
Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que, dans le composé de formule (I), R1 désigne un radical -COOH. Composition according to one of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that, in the compound of formula (I), R1 denotes a -COOH radical.
Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que, dans le composé de formule (I), R2 désigne un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire, saturé ou insaturé, et de préférence ayant de 2 à 7 atomes de carbone. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in the compound of formula (I), R 2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.
Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que R2 est un radical pentyl, pentenyl, hexyle, heptyle. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R2 is a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.
Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le composé (I) est l'acide 3-hydroxy 2-pentyl cyclopentane acétique ou l'un de ses sels. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid or a salt thereof.
Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le composé de formule (I) est présent en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids et mieux de 0,5 à 5% en poids. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0 to 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight.
Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ladite huile polaire de formule (II) a une tension
superficielle supérieure à 15mN/nn, mieux supérieure à 20mN/m et préférentiellement-supérieure à 25mN/m. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said polar oil of formula (II) has a tension superficial greater than 15mN / nn, better than 20mN / m and preferentially greater than 25mN / m.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée de formule (II) est choisie parmi PPG-2 Butyl Ether ; PPG-3 Butyl Ether ; PPG-4 Butyl Ether ; PPG-5 Butyl Ether ; PPG-9 Butyl Ether ; PPG-12 Butyl Ether ; PPG-14 Butyl Ether ;PPG-15 Butyl Ether ;PPG-16 Butyl Ether ; PPG-17 Butyl Ether ; PPG-18 Butyl Ether ; PPG-20 Butyl Ether ; PPG-22 Butyl9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly) oxyalkylenated polar oil of formula (II) is chosen from PPG-2 butyl ether; PPG-3 butyl ether; PPG-4 butyl ether; PPG-5 butyl ether; PPG-9 butyl ether; PPG-12 butyl ether; PPG-14 Butyl Ether, PPG-15 Butyl Ether, PPG-16 Butyl Ether; PPG-17 Butyl Ether; PPG-18 Butyl Ether; PPG-20 butyl ether; PPG-22 Butyl
Ether ; PPG-24 Butyl Ether ; PPG-26 Butyl Ether ; PPG-30 Butyl Ether ; PPG-33 Butyl Ether ; PPG-40 Butyl Ether ; PPG-52 Butyl Ether ; PPG-53 Butyl Ether ; PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-4 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-6 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-10 Caprylyl Ether ; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether ;PPG-20 Cetyl éther ; PPG-28 Cetyl Ether ; PPG-30 CetylEther; PPG-24 Butyl Ether; PPG-26 Butyl Ether; PPG-30 Butyl Ether; PPG-33 Butyl Ether; PPG-40 butyl ether; PPG-52 Butyl Ether; PPG-53 Butyl Ether; PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-4 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-6 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-10 Caprylyl Ether; PPG-10 Cetyl Ether, PPG-20 Cetyl Ether; PPG-28 Cetyl Ether; PPG-30 Cetyl
Ether ; PPG-50 Cetyl Ether ; PPG-4 Lauryl Ether ; PPG-7 Lauryl Ether ; PPG-10 Lauryl Ether ;PPG-2 Methyl Ether ;PPG-3 Methyl Ether ; PPG-4 Methyl Ether ;PPG-3 Myristyl Ether ; PPG-4 Myristyl Ether ;PPG-10 Oleyl Ether ;PPG-20 Oleyl Ether ;PPG-23 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-30 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-37 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-50 Oleyl Ether ; PPG-1 1 Stearyl Ether ; PPG-Ether; PPG-50 Cetyl Ether; PPG-4 Lauryl Ether; PPG-7 Lauryl Ether; PPG-10 Lauryl Ether, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Methyl Ether; PPG-4 Methyl Ether PPG-3 Myristyl Ether; PPG-4 Myristyl Ether, PPG-10 Oleyl Ether, PPG-20 Oleyl Ether, PPG-23 Oleyl Ether; PPG-30 Oleyl Ether; PPG-37 Oleyl Ether; PPG-50 Oleyl Ether; PPG-1 1 Stearyl Ether; PPG
15 Stearyl Ether. Stearyl Ether.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédente, caractérisée en ce que l'huile polaire (poly)oxyalkylénée en (C3-C4) de formule (II) est présente en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,5 % à 10% en poids, et mieux de 1 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly) oxyalkylenated (C3-C4) polar oil of formula (II) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
1 1 . Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédente, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est sous forme d'une émulsion en particulier d'une émulsion eau-dans-huile. 12. Procédé de traitement non thérapeutique des matières kératiniques comprenant l'application sur lesdites matières kératiniques d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 1 1 .
1 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, in particular of a water-in-oil emulsion. 12. A method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1353508A FR3004641B1 (en) | 2013-04-17 | 2013-04-17 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CUCURBIC ACID COMPOUND AND OXYALKYLENE POLY (POLY) OIL |
FR1353508 | 2013-04-17 |
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WO2014170591A1 true WO2014170591A1 (en) | 2014-10-23 |
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PCT/FR2014/050901 WO2014170591A1 (en) | 2013-04-17 | 2014-04-14 | Cosmetic composition comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a (poly)oxyalkylenated polar oil |
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WO (1) | WO2014170591A1 (en) |
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FR3064190B1 (en) | 2017-03-21 | 2023-04-14 | Capsum | METHOD FOR PREPARING CAPSULES COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE WATER-SOLUBLE OR HYDROPHILIC SUBSTANCE AND CAPSULES OBTAINED |
FR3064191B1 (en) | 2017-03-21 | 2019-04-26 | Calyxia | PROCESS FOR PREPARING CAPSULES COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE WATER-SOLUBLE OR HYDROPHILIC SUBSTANCE AND CAPSULES OBTAINED |
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JPH02295912A (en) | 1989-05-10 | 1990-12-06 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
EP1333021A2 (en) | 2002-02-04 | 2003-08-06 | L'oreal | Compositions containing derivatives of jasmonic acid and their use for stimulating skin peeling |
WO2007068371A1 (en) | 2005-12-14 | 2007-06-21 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Method for producing hydrocarbons |
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WO2008038140A2 (en) * | 2006-06-07 | 2008-04-03 | Foamix Ltd. | Foamable vehicle comprising polypropylene glycol alkyl ether and pharmaceutical compositions thereof |
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EP2223680A2 (en) * | 2008-12-30 | 2010-09-01 | L'Oréal | Combination of monosaccharides and exfoliating agents and its cosmetic use |
DE102010028585A1 (en) * | 2009-05-12 | 2010-12-02 | Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh | Multi-phase cosmetic composition |
WO2011077083A1 (en) * | 2009-12-24 | 2011-06-30 | Croda International Plc | Inverse emulsions comprising an alkoxylated ester oil |
FR2964865A1 (en) * | 2010-09-16 | 2012-03-23 | Oreal | Composition, useful for the non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials and e.g. for treating skin diseases e.g. eczema, comprises at least one cucurbic acid compound, and polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol |
FR2977487A1 (en) * | 2011-07-08 | 2013-01-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF WATER-IN-OIL EMULSIONS COMPRISING A JASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVE AND A SILICONE SURFACTANT |
-
2013
- 2013-04-17 FR FR1353508A patent/FR3004641B1/en active Active
-
2014
- 2014-04-14 WO PCT/FR2014/050901 patent/WO2014170591A1/en active Application Filing
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JPH02295912A (en) | 1989-05-10 | 1990-12-06 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
EP1333021A2 (en) | 2002-02-04 | 2003-08-06 | L'oreal | Compositions containing derivatives of jasmonic acid and their use for stimulating skin peeling |
WO2007068371A1 (en) | 2005-12-14 | 2007-06-21 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Method for producing hydrocarbons |
DE102006020382A1 (en) * | 2006-04-28 | 2007-10-31 | Henkel Kgaa | Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion, useful e.g. to treat skin, comprises oil or fat phase comprising a component e.g. branched saturated alkanol, water, a cosmetically active substance e.g. monomer and a polysaccharide |
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FR2921255A1 (en) | 2007-09-21 | 2009-03-27 | Oreal | Cosmetic use of jasmonic acid derivative, to prepare a composition for depigmenting and bleaching of the skin, to reduce or eliminate the pigmentation, and/or to reduce the size of lentigo |
EP2223680A2 (en) * | 2008-12-30 | 2010-09-01 | L'Oréal | Combination of monosaccharides and exfoliating agents and its cosmetic use |
DE102010028585A1 (en) * | 2009-05-12 | 2010-12-02 | Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh | Multi-phase cosmetic composition |
WO2011077083A1 (en) * | 2009-12-24 | 2011-06-30 | Croda International Plc | Inverse emulsions comprising an alkoxylated ester oil |
FR2964865A1 (en) * | 2010-09-16 | 2012-03-23 | Oreal | Composition, useful for the non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials and e.g. for treating skin diseases e.g. eczema, comprises at least one cucurbic acid compound, and polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol |
FR2977487A1 (en) * | 2011-07-08 | 2013-01-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF WATER-IN-OIL EMULSIONS COMPRISING A JASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVE AND A SILICONE SURFACTANT |
Also Published As
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FR3004641B1 (en) | 2016-01-15 |
FR3004641A1 (en) | 2014-10-24 |
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