FR2977478A1 - Composition, useful for treating keratin materials e.g. hair, skin, mucous membranes, scalp and lips, comprises cucurbic acid compound, and silicone emulsifier e.g. oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition, in the form of water-in-oil emulsion containing aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, comprises at least one cucurbic acid compound (I), and silicone emulsifier containing oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes and/or oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes, where the alkyl chain contains less than 12C. Composition, in the form of water-in-oil emulsion containing aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, comprises at least one cucurbic acid compound of formula (I) or its optical isomer or salt, and silicone emulsifier containing oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes and/or oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes, where the alkyl chain contains less than 12C. R1 : COOR3 group; R3 : 1-4C alkyl (optionally substituted with one or more OH) or H; and R2 : linear, optionally saturated 1-18C hydrocarbyl, or branched or cyclic 3-18C hydrocarbyl. [Image] ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Antiinflammatory; Antipsoriatic; Antilichen; Antipruritic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a silicone emulsifier, as well as the use of these compositions in a method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratinous substances of human beings.

More particularly, the compositions of the invention are intended for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to mean, for example, the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

It is known in the application EP-A-1333021 cucurbic acid compounds such as 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid to promote desquamation of the skin and stimulate epidermal renewal, fight against the signs of aging skin, improve the radiance of the complexion and / or smooth the skin of the face. In the application FR-A62921255 these compounds are also described for their use as a depigmenting agent.

However, the introduction of these cucurbic acid compounds previously mentioned in cosmetic formulations in the form of an emulsion, in particular of a water-in-oil emulsion, can greatly impair the stability of the compositions comprising them, which can be expressed, for example by a non-negligible decrease in the viscosity and / or a phase shift of the composition.

In addition, the presence of a cucurbic acid compound appears to affect the thickening power of some conventional gelling agents.

Thus, there is a need for compositions in the form of water-oil emulsion comprising cucurbic acid compounds, which are stable and have good cosmetic properties, especially a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-irritating texture.

Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a cucurbic acid compound in combination with a silicone emulsifier chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes and / or oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain comprises less than 12 atoms. carbon can achieve such goals.

More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, characterized in that it comprises: at least one cucurbic acid compound of formula (1) in which: R1 represents a radical COOR3, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts, and at least one silicone emulsifier chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxanes, oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The emulsions obtained have good stability over time, a pleasant appearance, and during its application, properties of comfortable feeling. They are stable irrespective of their viscosity and can therefore be formulated in a wide range of textures (sprayable fluid with consistent cream). The term "stable emulsion" means an emulsion which, after 24 hours of storage at all temperatures between 4 ° C. and 50 ° C., exhibits no macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity. (1) According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment care or makeup keratin materials comprising the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Cucurbic acid compound.

The compound derived from cucurbic acid is a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (1): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon radical having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts. Preferably, R1 denotes a radical chosen from -000H, -COOMe, -000-CH2-20 CH3, -COO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH, -000CH2-CH (OH) - CH3. Preferably, R1 denotes a -000H radical.

Preferably, R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R2 may be pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl, heptyl. According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (1) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid or 10 (1) 3-hydroxy-2 acid. -pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid. Preferably, the compound (1) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid; this compound may especially be in the form of sodium salt.

The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4 +; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used.

The cucurbic acid derivative compound of formula (1) defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. Silicone emulsifier

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise a silicone emulsifier (or surfactant) chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes, also called dimethicone copolyols, and oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes (also called alkyldimethicone copolyols) whose alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms. , and their mixtures.

Preferably the silicone surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene chains grafted onto the main chain (polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side or pendant chains). The (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxanes used in the emulsion according to the invention advantageously have polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains of the following formula: ## STR5 ## in which - R 10 represents an atom of hydrogen, a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom, a varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50 and better still from 10 to 30, b varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, and more preferably from 10 to 30, - x varies from 1 to 5.

The number-average molecular weight of the silicone emulsifier is in general greater than or equal to 15,000, preferably greater than or equal to 30,000, ranging from 40,000 to 100,000, in particular from 50,000 to 100,000.

By way of example of a silicone compound belonging to this family, mention may be made of oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly (ethylene oxide) (OE / OP 18/18) whose INCI name is PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone, sold in admixture with a polydimethylsiloxane under the commercial reference X-22-6711D by Shin Etsu or under the name ES-5226 DM by Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone).

The silicone emulsifier is generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight. weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of aqueous phase which may range, for example, from 30 to 97% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight and better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as, in particular, water-soluble solvents and additives (for example hydrophilic and active surfactants).

As water-soluble solvents, mention may be made in particular of lower alcohols and polyols. By lower alcohol is meant alcohols having from 1 to 8 and more particularly from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols (for example PEG-8). These alcohols and / or polyols may be present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 0.1 to 25% and from 1 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

The fatty phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. All cosmetically acceptable oils can be used.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one silicone oil which may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes ( cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes.

Within the meaning of the invention, a volatile oil has at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pa to 40 mmHg). 000 Pa) and better ranging from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The nonvolatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and more preferably less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and better still less than 1% by weight of cyclic volatile silicone oil.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, esters and synthetic ethers, including fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, better still less than 2% non-silicone oil.

The fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5 to 60%, better still from 5 to 50% and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount does not include the silicone emulsifier. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 40% and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the oils mentioned above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the fatty phase, such as fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names "KSG 6" or "KSG 16" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or " EPSX "by Dow Corning or under the names" Gransil "by Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. synthetic waxes, silicone waxes; pasty fatty substances such as petrolatum and petrolatum; and also butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, muru muru butter, cupuac butter, and mixtures thereof.

Additional emulsifiers

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the silicone emulsifier, an additional emulsifier (or surfactant), also said coemulsifier. This co-emulsifier does not in itself, in the absence of the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated silicone (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxane silicone emulsifier, stabilize the composition according to the invention. As additional emulsifier, mention may in particular be made of nonionic emulsifiers such as as esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular of glycerol, oxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. Mention may be made more particularly of the polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester such as the polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxystearate 30 OE sold under the trade name "Cithrol DPHS-SO- (MV)" by the company Croda.

The additional emulsifier may be present in a content (dry matter content) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5% additional emulsifier, it may in particular be free of additional emulsifier.

Additives In a known manner, the composition for topical application of the invention may also contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As adjuvants, gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, salts, fillers, 825 sunscreens (= UV filters), dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine) can be mentioned as adjuvants. , diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide) or acids (citric acid), and also lipid vesicles or any other type of vector (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties desired for the emulsion of the invention.

Depending on the viscosity desired for the composition according to the invention, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents may be incorporated therein. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and their mixtures. When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in such a quantity that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, lipophilic gelling agents will be chosen, mention may be made in particular of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), and heterochemistry modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium). hectorite) marketed under the name "bentone 38 CE" by RHEOX or magnesium and sodium lithium silicates sold under the name "Smectite" by the company NIKKO Chemicals.

The gelling agent may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures. As organic spherical powders, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide-12 sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starches, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch. As fibers, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) (INCI name: nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) fibers (INCI name: nylon 66 ) or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As active agents for use in the composition of the invention, for example, hydrating agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; self-tanning agents such as DHA; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes; flavonoids; tensing agents such as synthetic polymers, vegetable proteins, polysaccharides of plant origin in form or not of microgels, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; ceramides; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; mattifying agents; anti-hair loss agents and / or hair regrowth; anti-wrinkle agents; essential oils ; and their mixtures; and any suitable asset for the ultimate purpose of the composition.

U.V. filters can be organic or inorganic (or physical U.V. filters). They may be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. Examples of organic screening agents active in the UV-A and / or UV-B which may be added in the composition of the invention include, for example, anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; [3, [3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following UV filters, referred to below under their INCI name: Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: - PABA, - Ethyl PABA, - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, - Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA marketed in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by the company ISP, - Glyceryl PABA, - PEG-25 PABA marketed under the name UVINUL P25 by the company BASF.

Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate marketed under the name Eusolex HMS by the company Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by the company Haarmann and Reimer, Dipropylene glycol salicylate marketed under the name DIPSAL by the company SCHER, TEA Salicylate, marketed under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by the company Haarmann and Reimer,

Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane marketed in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl ibenzoylmethane, cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by the company Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by the company Haarmann and Reimer, - Cinoxate, - DEA Methoxycinnamate, - Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of 13,13'-diphenylacrylate - Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by the company BASF, - Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by the company BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by the company BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by the company BASF-Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by the company Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS-49 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-12.

Derivative of benzylidene camphor: - 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by the company Chimex, - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor marketed under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by the company Marck, - Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by the Chimex company, - Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by Chimex, - -Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by Chimex, - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by Chimex.

Derivatives of phenylbenzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid marketed in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by the company Marck, Benzimidazilate marketed under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by the company Haarmann and Reimer,

Triazine derivatives: Anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by the company Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone marketed in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by the company BASF, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone marketed under the trade name UVASORB HEB by the company SIGMA 3V.

Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: - Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by the company Rhodia Chimie, - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BE / 100 by the company Fairmount Chemical or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark TlNOSORB M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by the company Haarmann and Reimer.

Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions marketed under the trade name PARSOL SLX by the company Hoffmann La Roche

And mixtures of these filters.

The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl salicylate, 25-Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Benzimidazilate, 15-Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and their mixtures.

The total amount of organic UV filters in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition.

As physical filters which may be added in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium, zinc or cerium. , and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

A composition of the invention may be in any conceivable galenic form.

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for the hair, a composition of permanent (including a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or a fall protection gel, a pest control shampoo.

It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams). , night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition); a makeup composition for the body or the face such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; an anti-pain composition; a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus.

When a composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution.

A composition according to the invention may be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, and may be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent.

A composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of liquid vaporizable or not, in the form of paste, direct or inverse emulsion, or gel or impregnated support.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in a solid form, in particular compact, pulverulent or cast or in a stick form.

A composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, d a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for face makeup or a makeup composition for the body.

A composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against cracking and the cracked appearance of the skin .

A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

An emulsion was made (Example 1) comprising an emulsifier according to the invention and a comparative emulsion (Examples 2) comprising a water-in-oil emulsifier outside the invention, and the stability of these compositions was observed. EXAMPLE 1 Comparative Example 2 Demineralized water Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Sodium salt of the acid 3- 6.7% 6.7% Hyd roxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic at 30% in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture ( 70/30). Preservatives 1% 1 Glycerin 10% 10% PEG / PPG 18/18 8% Dimethicone -% Active Ingredients in (2% MA) dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711 D) Lauryl PEG / PPG 18/18 methicone - 3.4% copolyol 72% MA (DC 5200 (2% MA) Dow Corning Disteardimonium hectorite formulation 0.4% 0.4% Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt 10% 10% (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE Dow Corning FLUID 5CS) Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (DOW CORNING SH 200 C FLUID 10 CS Dow Corning) Stability Stable emulsion Emulsion (> 1 week at unstable at t = 0 50 ° C) Phase shift These tests show that only the emulsion ( EXAMPLE 1) comprising the silicone surfactant according to the invention is stable, even after one week at 50 ° C. The other emulsion (Example 2) shows off after preparation.

A solar milk having the following composition was prepared: Glycerine 5% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid at 30% in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 6.7% Water gsp100 % Preservatives 0.3% Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt (DowCorning XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS) 15% PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) 8% 20 PEG -30 dipolyhydroxystearate (CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) from Croda) 2% Octocrylene (UVINUL N539 from BASF) 10% Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane5 (PARSOL 1789 by Hoffmann La Roche) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX from Hoffmann La Roche) Example 4 : Mattifying moisturizing emulsion

PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) 8% Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Goldschmidt Isolan G134®) 1% Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (DOW CORNING SH 200 C FLUID 10 CS Dow Corning) 120/0 Vaseline 3% Silica 3% Disteardimonium hectorite 0.4% Glycerin 5% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid 30% in water / dipropylene glycol ( 70/30) 6.7% Demineralised water qs 100% 20 Preservatives 0.3%

Example 5: Moisturizing Body Milk

Demineralized water qs 100% 30% sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 6.7% Preservatives 0.3% Glycerine 10% PEG / PPG 18 / 18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone 30 (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) 10% Vaseline 8%

Example 6: Foundation 3% 7% 5 Demineralized water qs 100% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid at 30% in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 6.7% Preservatives 0.3% Glycerin 10% PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711 D) 10% Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (Dow C Dow Corning SH 200 C 10 CS) 10% Coated yellow iron oxide 1.6% Coated brown iron oxide 0.4% Coated black iron oxide 0.25% Titanium oxide coated 10% Example 7: Demineralized water Qs 100% Sodium salt of acid 3- 6.7% hydoxy-2 30% -pentylcyclopentane acetic acid in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30). Glycerin 10% PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone at (2% MA) 25% active ingredients in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) Lauryl PEG / PPG 18/18 methicone-72% copolyol MA ( DC 5200 Formulation Aid® Dow Corning Disteardimonium Hectorite 0.4% Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt 10% (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS Dow Corning) Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (Dow C Dow Corning Dow Corning SH 200 C) The products of Examples 3 to 7 above obtained are stable.

The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a silicone emulsifier, as well as the use of these compositions in a method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratinous substances of human beings.

More particularly, the compositions of the invention are intended for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to mean, for example, the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

It is known in the application EP-A-1333021 cucurbic acid compounds such as 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid to promote desquamation of the skin and stimulate epidermal renewal, fight against the signs of aging skin, improve the radiance of the complexion and / or smooth the skin of the face. In FR-A-2921255 these compounds are also described for their use as a depigmenting agent.

However, the introduction of these cucurbic acid compounds previously mentioned in cosmetic formulations in the form of an emulsion, in particular of a water-in-oil emulsion, can greatly impair the stability of the compositions comprising them, which can be expressed, for example by a non-negligible decrease in the viscosity and / or a phase shift of the composition.

In addition, the presence of a cucurbic acid compound appears to affect the thickening power of some conventional gelling agents.

Thus, there is a need for compositions in the form of water-oil emulsion comprising cucurbic acid compounds, which are stable and have good cosmetic properties, especially a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-irritating texture.

Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a cucurbic acid compound in combination with a silicone emulsifier chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes and / or oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes and / or oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes of which the alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms makes it possible to achieve such objectives.

More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, characterized in that it comprises: at least one cucurbic acid compound of formula (1) in which: R1 represents a radical COOR3, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts, and at least one silicone emulsifier chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxanes, oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The emulsions obtained have good stability over time, a pleasant appearance, and during its application, properties of comfortable feeling. They are stable irrespective of their viscosity and can therefore be formulated in a wide range of textures (sprayable fluid with consistent cream). The term "stable emulsion" means an emulsion which, after 24 hours of storage at all temperatures between 4 ° C. and 50 ° C., exhibits no macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity. (1) According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment care or makeup keratin materials comprising the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Cucurbic acid compound.

The compound derived from cucurbic acid is a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (1): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon radical having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts. Preferably, R1 denotes a radical chosen from -000H, -COOMe, -000-CH2-20 CH3, -COO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH, -000CH2-CH (OH) - CH3. Preferably, R1 denotes a -000H radical.

Preferably, R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R2 may be pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl, heptyl. According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (1) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid or 10 (1) 3-hydroxy-2 acid. -pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid. Preferably, the compound (1) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid; this compound may especially be in the form of sodium salt.

The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4 +; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used.

The cucurbic acid derivative compound of formula (1) defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. Silicone emulsifier

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise a silicone emulsifier (or surfactant) chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes, also called dimethicone copolyols, and oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes (also called alkyldimethicone copolyols) whose alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms. , and their mixtures.

Preferably the silicone surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene chains grafted onto the main chain (polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side or pendant chains). The (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxanes used in the emulsion according to the invention advantageously have polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains of the following formula: ## STR5 ## in which - R 10 represents an atom of hydrogen, a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom, a varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50 and better still from 10 to 30, b varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, and more preferably from 10 to 30, - x varies from 1 to 5.

The number-average molecular weight of the silicone emulsifier is in general greater than or equal to 15,000, preferably greater than or equal to 30,000, ranging from 40,000 to 100,000, in particular from 50,000 to 100,000.

By way of example of a silicone compound belonging to this family, mention may be made of oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly (ethylene oxide) (OE / OP 18/18) whose INCI name is PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone, sold in admixture with a polydimethylsiloxane under the commercial reference X-22-6711D by Shin Etsu or under the name ES-5226 DM by Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone).

The silicone emulsifier is generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight. weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of aqueous phase which may range, for example, from 30 to 97% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight and better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as, in particular, water-soluble solvents and additives (for example hydrophilic and active surfactants).

As water-soluble solvents, mention may be made in particular of lower alcohols and polyols. By lower alcohol is meant alcohols having from 1 to 8 and more particularly from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols (for example PEG-8). These alcohols and / or polyols may be present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 0.1 to 25% and from 1 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

The fatty phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. All cosmetically acceptable oils can be used.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one silicone oil which may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes ( cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes.

Within the meaning of the invention, a volatile oil has at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pa to 40 mmHg). 000 Pa) and better ranging from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The nonvolatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and more preferably less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and better still less than 1% by weight of cyclic volatile silicone oil.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, esters and synthetic ethers, including fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, better still less than 2% non-silicone oil.

The fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5 to 60%, better still from 5 to 50% and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount does not include the silicone emulsifier. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 40% and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the oils mentioned above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the fatty phase, such as fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names "KSG 6" or "KSG 16" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or " EPSX "by Dow Corning or under the names" Gransil "by Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. synthetic waxes, silicone waxes; pasty fatty substances such as petrolatum and petrolatum; and also butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, muru muru butter, cupuac butter, and mixtures thereof.

Additional emulsifiers

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the silicone emulsifier, an additional emulsifier (or surfactant), also said coemulsifier. This co-emulsifier does not in itself, in the absence of the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated silicone (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxane silicone emulsifier, stabilize the composition according to the invention. As additional emulsifier, mention may in particular be made of nonionic emulsifiers such as as esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular of glycerol, oxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. Mention may be made more particularly of the polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester such as the polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxystearate 30 OE sold under the trade name "Cithrol DPHS-SO- (MV)" by the company Croda.

The additional emulsifier may be present in a content (dry matter content) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5% additional emulsifier, it may in particular be free of additional emulsifier.

Additives In a known manner, the composition for topical application of the invention may also contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As adjuvants, gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, salts, fillers, 825 sunscreens (= UV filters), dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine) can be mentioned as adjuvants. , diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide) or acids (citric acid), and also lipid vesicles or any other type of vector (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties desired for the emulsion of the invention.

Depending on the viscosity desired for the composition according to the invention, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents may be incorporated therein. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and their mixtures. When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in such a quantity that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, lipophilic gelling agents will be chosen, mention may be made in particular of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), and heterochemistry modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium). hectorite) marketed under the name "bentone 38 CE" by RHEOX or magnesium and sodium lithium silicates sold under the name "Smectite" by the company NIKKO Chemicals.

The gelling agent may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures. As organic spherical powders, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide-12 sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starches, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch. As fibers, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) (INCI name: nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) fibers (INCI name: nylon 66 ) or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As active agents for use in the composition of the invention, for example, hydrating agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; self-tanning agents such as DHA; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes; flavonoids; tensing agents such as synthetic polymers, vegetable proteins, polysaccharides of plant origin in form or not of microgels, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; ceramides; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; mattifying agents; anti-hair loss agents and / or hair regrowth; anti-wrinkle agents; essential oils ; and their mixtures; and any suitable asset for the ultimate purpose of the composition.

U.V. filters can be organic or inorganic (or physical U.V. filters). They may be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. Examples of organic screening agents active in the UV-A and / or UV-B which may be added in the composition of the invention include, for example, anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; [3, [3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following UV filters, referred to below under their INCI name: Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: - PABA, - Ethyl PABA, - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, - Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA marketed in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by the company ISP, - Glyceryl PABA, - PEG-25 PABA marketed under the name UVINUL P25 by the company BASF.

Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate marketed under the name Eusolex HMS by the company Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by the company Haarmann and Reimer, Dipropylene glycol salicylate marketed under the name DIPSAL by the company SCHER, TEA Salicylate, marketed under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by the company Haarmann and Reimer,

Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane marketed in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl ibenzoylmethane, cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by the company Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by the company Haarmann and Reimer, - Cinoxate, - DEA Methoxycinnamate, - Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of 13,13'-diphenylacrylate - Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by the company BASF, - Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by the company BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by the company BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by the company BASF-Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by the company Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS-49 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-12.

Derivative of benzylidene camphor: - 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by the company Chimex, - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor marketed under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by the company Marck, - Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by the Chimex company, - Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by Chimex, - -Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by Chimex, - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by Chimex.

Derivatives of phenylbenzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid marketed in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by the company Marck, Benzimidazilate marketed under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by the company Haarmann and Reimer,

Triazine derivatives: Anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by the company Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone marketed in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by the company BASF, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone marketed under the trade name UVASORB HEB by the company SIGMA 3V.

Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: - Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by the company Rhodia Chimie, - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BE / 100 by the company Fairmount Chemical or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark TlNOSORB M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by the company Haarmann and Reimer.

Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions marketed under the trade name PARSOL SLX by the company Hoffmann La Roche

And mixtures of these filters.

The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl salicylate, 25-Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Benzimidazilate, 15-Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and their mixtures.

The total amount of organic UV filters in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition.

As physical filters which may be added in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium, zinc or cerium. , and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

A composition of the invention may be in any conceivable galenic form.

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for the hair, a composition of permanent (including a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or a fall protection gel, a pest control shampoo.

It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams). , night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition); a makeup composition for the body or the face such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; an anti-pain composition; a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus.

When a composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution.

A composition according to the invention may be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, and may be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent.

A composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of liquid vaporizable or not, in the form of paste, direct or inverse emulsion, or gel or impregnated support.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in a solid form, in particular compact, pulverulent or cast or in a stick form.

A composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, d a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for face makeup or a makeup composition for the body.

A composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against cracking and the cracked appearance of the skin .

A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

An emulsion was made (Example 1) comprising an emulsifier according to the invention and a comparative emulsion (Examples 2) comprising a water-in-oil emulsifier outside the invention, and the stability of these compositions was observed. EXAMPLE 1 Comparative Example 2 Demineralized water Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Sodium salt of the acid 3- 6.7% 6.7% Hyd roxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic at 30% in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture ( 70/30). Preservatives 1% 1 Glycerin 10% 10% PEG / PPG 18/18 8% Dimethicone -% Active Ingredients in (2% MA) dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711 D) Lauryl PEG / PPG 18/18 methicone - 3.4% copolyol 72% MA (DC 5200 (2% MA) Dow Corning Disteardimonium hectorite formulation 0.4% 0.4% Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt 10% 10% (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE Dow Corning FLUID 5CS) Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (DOW CORNING SH 200 C FLUID 10 CS Dow Corning) Stability Stable emulsion Emulsion (> 1 week at unstable at t = 0 50 ° C) Phase shift These tests show that only the emulsion ( EXAMPLE 1) comprising the silicone surfactant according to the invention is stable, even after one week at 50 ° C. The other emulsion (Example 2) shows off after preparation.

A solar milk having the following composition was prepared: Glycerine 5% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid at 30% in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 6.7% Water gsp100 % Preservatives 0.3% Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt (DowCorning XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS) 15% PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) 8% 20 PEG -30 dipolyhydroxystearate (CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) from Croda) 2% Octocrylene (UVINUL N539 from BASF) 10% Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane5 (PARSOL 1789 by Hoffmann La Roche) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX from Hoffmann La Roche) Example 4 : Mattifying moisturizing emulsion

PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) 8% Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Goldschmidt Isolan G134®) 1% Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (DOW CORNING SH 200 C FLUID 10 CS Dow Corning) 120/0 Vaseline 3% Silica 3% Disteardimonium hectorite 0.4% Glycerin 5% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid 30% in water / dipropylene glycol ( 70/30) 6.7% Demineralised water qs 100% 20 Preservatives 0.3%

Example 5: Moisturizing Body Milk

Demineralized water qs 100% 30% sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 6.7% Preservatives 0.3% Glycerine 10% PEG / PPG 18 / 18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone 30 (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) 10% Vaseline 8%

Example 6: Foundation 3% 7% 5 Demineralized water qs 100% Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid at 30% in water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30) 6.7% Preservatives 0.3% Glycerin 10% PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone 25% MA in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711 D) 10% Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (Dow C Dow Corning SH 200 C 10 CS) 10% Coated yellow iron oxide 1.6% Coated brown iron oxide 0.4% Coated black iron oxide 0.25% Titanium oxide coated 10% Example 7: Demineralized water Qs 100% Sodium salt of acid 3- 6.7% hydoxy-2 30% -pentylcyclopentane acetic acid in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30). Glycerin 10% PEG / PPG 18/18 Dimethicone at (2% MA) 25% active ingredients in dimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-6711D) Lauryl PEG / PPG 18/18 methicone-72% copolyol MA ( DC 5200 Formulation Aid® Dow Corning Disteardimonium hectorite 0.4% Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt 10% (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS Dow Corning) Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (Dow Corning SH 200 C Dow Corning FLUID 10 CS)

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, characterized in that it comprises: at least one cucurbic acid compound of formula (1) below: in which: R1 represents a radical COOR3, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts and at least one silicone emulsifier chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes, oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. 20 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the compound (1) is such that R1 denotes a radical selected from -000H, -COOMe, -COO-CH2-CH3, -COO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH -COOCH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 3; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 7 carbon atoms. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, in the compound of formula (1), R1 denotes a radical -000H. 10 15 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in the compound of formula (1), R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R2 is a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound (1) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl cyclopentane acetic acid. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound of formula (1) is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier comprises polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene chains grafted onto the main chain. 20 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxane emulsifier has polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains of the following formula: - (CxH2x) - (OC2Ha) - (OC3HOb-OR, in which - R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom, 30 - a varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to at 50 and more preferably from 10 to 30, - b ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, and more preferably from 10 to 30, - x varies from 1 to 5.5 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is a poly dimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated (EO / OP 18/18). 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 100/0 by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and better still less than 1% by weight of cyclic volatile silicone oil. . 13. A method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.20.