FR2928540A1 - Composition, useful for care/make-up of keratin materials e.g. lips, comprises: fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol; additional surfactant; polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide; and active ingredient e.g. ascorbic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in oil-in-water emulsion form comprises: fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol; additional surfactant comprising esters of 16-22C fatty acid and sorbitan and esters of 16-22C fatty acid and glyceryl; ethylene oxide polycondensate and propylene oxide polycondensate comprising polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks; and active ingredient comprising ascorbic acid and its salts, glycosylated ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and its derivatives (I) and its salts obtained from inorganic or organic base. Composition in oil-in-water emulsion form comprises: fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol; additional surfactant comprising esters of 16-22C fatty acid and sorbitan and esters of 16-22C fatty acid and glyceryl; ethylene oxide polycondensate and propylene oxide polycondensate comprising polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks; and active ingredient comprising ascorbic acid and its salts, glycosylated ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and its derivatives of formula (I) and its salts obtained from inorganic or organic base. R : saturated, linear, branched or cyclic 2-22C aliphatic chain, unsaturated 2-22C chain containing double bonds that are optionally conjugated, or aromatic ring attached to the carbonyl radical directly or by optionally saturated 2-7C aliphatic chain, where the groups are optionally substituted by halo, trifluoromethyl, hydroxyl in free form or esterified by 1-6C acid, or carboxyl function in free form or esterified by 1-6C lower alcohol; and R1a : hydroxyl group. [Image] ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising an ascorbic acid compound and a particular mixture of surfactant.

Ascorbic acid or vitamin C, and its derivatives, are commonly used because of their many beneficial properties. In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and especially collagen, strengthens the skin's defenses against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments the skin and has an anti-free radical function. These last two properties make it an excellent candidate as a cosmetic or dermatological active agent to fight against the aging of the skin or to prevent it. Unfortunately, because of its chemical structure (alphaketolactone), ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain parameters of the environment and especially to oxidation phenomena. It follows therefore a rapid degradation of ascorbic acid formulated in the presence of these parameters, and more particularly in the presence of oxygen, light, metal ions, depending on the temperature, or in certain pH conditions. (Pharm Acta Helv., 1969, 44, 611-667, STP Pharma, 1985, 4, 281-286).

Furthermore, the use of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in emulsions, and in particular in oil-in-water emulsions, especially when they contain a surfactant system comprising a fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol ; and an additional surfactant selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan and C16-C22 fatty acid esters and glyceryl, tends to destabilize the emulsion which then has a phase shift of oil in area . The oil globules dispersed in the aqueous phase have a coarse appearance rendering the emulsion inhomogeneous.

However, this surfactant system described above is interesting for the particular texture that it confers on these emulsions. The latter have a thick texture and are suitable for packaging the cosmetic product in a pot (unlike fluid textures that are packaged in a tube or a pump bottle), the thick texture is such that the composition does not flow instantly by reversing the pot ); such a composition can be easily taken with the fingers, spreads well on the skin, pleasantly, while penetrating easily; it gives softness and does not have a sticky effect.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide an emulsion containing ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives and the surfactant system described above, which is stable, in particular for 24 hours at 55 ° C., or even for 2 hours. month at 45 ° C.

The inventor has discovered that the stability of such an emulsion can be obtained by adding a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: an ascorbic acid compound; an ester of fatty acid and of polyethylene glycol; an additional surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan esters and C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters; a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of care or makeup keratin materials comprising the application on keratin materials of the composition defined above. The ascorbic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and also glycosylated ascorbic acid, and their mixtures.

The ascorbic acid compound is preferably selected from magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof. The ascorbic acid compound as described above may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from , 5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight. The composition according to the invention comprises, as main emulsifying surfactant, at least one fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol. The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester containing from 8 to 100 units of ethylene oxide. The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl and, preferably, a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units may range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and more preferably from 10 to 50. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number may range from Examples of fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol include stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53, 45 Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA. The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

The composition according to the invention also comprises an additional emulsifying surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan esters and C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a C16-C22 fatty acid ester and sorbitan.

The C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid having at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively, with sorbitol. These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used. The C 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C.

By way of example of sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate sorbitan sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

The ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

The glyceryl ester of fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glycerol mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and their mixtures. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is selected from glyceryl stearates. The fatty acid glyceryl ester may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

The composition of the invention may especially be a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda.

The composition according to the invention comprises a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, and more particularly a copolymer consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol tri-block polycondensates. / polyethylene glycol. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) a- (O-CH (CH 3) -CH 2) b- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) a-OH,

formula in which a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably, is from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and better ranging from 1500 to 15000, and in particular ranging from 1500 to 10,000, and even better ranging from 1500 to 5000.

Advantageously, said polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to ISO 1065.

Suitable polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which may be used according to the invention include polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as SYNPERONIC PE / F32 ( INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), SYNPERONIC PE / F108 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), "SYNPERONIC PE / L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), SYNPERONIC PE / L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122), "SYNPERONIC PE / F127 "(INCI name: POLOXAMER 407), SYNPERONIC PE / F88 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), SYNPERONIC PE / L64 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184) by CRODA, or LUTROL F68 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by BASF company.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise an anionic surfactant chosen from alkaline salts of cetyl phosphate. The alkaline salts are, for example, the sodium salts, the potassium salts. The ionic surfactant is preferably potassium cetylphosphate. In particular, it is possible to use the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name AMPHISOL K by the company DSM Nutritional products. This anionic surfactant improves the stability of the composition at high temperature (55 ° C) for 2 months. The anionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight. and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight. The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent for thickening the aqueous phase of the composition. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen for example from: (i) carboxyvinyl polymers (such as acrylic acid polymers, optionally crosslinked), such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; (Ii) polyacrylamides and optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of an emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; cross-linked anionic copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, in the form of an emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SIMULGEL EG (CTFA name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid / ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate copolymers (ARISTOFLEX LNC from Clariant), 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid / ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate copolymers (ARISTOFLEX HMS and 40 ARISTOFLEX SNC). from Clariant); (iii) polysaccharides such as xanthan gums, guar gums, alginates, cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose; (iv) inorganic compounds such as smectites, modified or non-modified hectorites such as BENTONE products marketed by Rheox, LAPONITE products sold by Southern Clay Products, VEEGUM HS product marketed by RT Vanderbilt; and mixtures thereof. Among these hydrophilic gelling agents, the polysaccharides described above, and in particular xanthan gum, will be chosen more particularly.

The hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5%. by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 70% by weight. % in weight.

The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The composition may further comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C.), especially chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; Glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as the mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene alkyl (C1-C4) ethers; glycol; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at room temperature, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and from preferably from 3% to 15% by weight.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 8.0, preferably ranging from 4.0 to 8.0, preferentially ranging from 5.0 to 7.0, and more preferably ranging from 5.5 to 6.5.

The emulsion according to the invention also comprises an oily phase. As oils that can be used more particularly in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane), esters and synthetic ethers, in particular fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to at 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; lipophilic derivatives of amino acids, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Isopropyl Lauroyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Eldew SL 205 by the company Ajinomoto; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of hydrocarbon-based oils derived from petroleum, INCI name: Ore), paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parleam® oil marketed by NOF Corporation (INCI name; Hydrogenated Polyisobutene); silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; fluorinated oils such as those partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-type, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; ethers such as dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); and benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN of FINETEX); - their mixtures.

The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight.

The oily phase of the emulsion may comprise other fatty substances such as waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent active in the UVA and / or UVB (absorbers), water-soluble or fat-soluble or insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.

Since the composition according to the invention has good stability, it is suitable for the formulation of organic UV filters: the UV filters incorporated in the composition are not degraded in the presence of ascorbic acid compound.

The organic filters are in particular chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; ascorbic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives other than those of the invention such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; benzophenone derivatives; 13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in Applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, a nonionic organic protective filter is used.

The photoprotective agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight. and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. The composition according to the invention may further comprise fillers.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured, and which do not color the composition.

The fillers can be of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorobial, etc.). Mention may be made of: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), polyorganosiloxane particles elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and microcapsules of glass or ceramic.

The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise an active agent chosen from desquamating agents capable of acting either by promoting exfoliation or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes, the moisturizing agents and the depigmenting agents. or pro-pigmenting agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, 5α-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their formation. degradation, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, antimicrobial agents, tensing agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, anti-inflammatory agents, lipolytic actives or having a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the decrease of the adipose tissue, the agents acting on the microcirculation, and agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells.

Advantageously, the emulsion according to the invention can have a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C., at a shear rate of 200 min-1 (200 revolutions per minute, ie a frequency of 50 Hz), ranging from 1 to 4 Pa. .s (10 to 40 poise), and preferably ranging from 2 to 3.5 Pa.s (20 to 35 poises). The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C with a RHEOMAT 180 viscometer from METTLER equipped with a mobile No. 3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotational speed of the mobile), at a shear of 200 min-1.

The composition according to the invention is in particular intended for topical use, in particular cosmetic or dermatological use.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts, surfactants, thickeners, bases.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.

The composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin, the hairs, the eyelashes, the hair, the nails or the lips, according to the use for which it is intended. It can thus be used in a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin, for example with a view to toning it, regenerating it, smoothing the fine lines of the skin, and / or to fight against skin aging, against the harmful effects of UV radiation and / or to strengthen cutaneous tissues against environmental aggressions.

Alternatively, the composition according to the invention can be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation.

The composition may be a care composition, in particular a skincare product such as a skin care base, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base ; a care composition for the lips (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition.

The composition may also be a make-up composition, in particular of makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair. In particular, the make-up composition may be a foundation, a blush, an eyeshadow, a concealer, a body make-up product.

Advantageously, the composition is a non-rinsed composition.

The emulsion according to the invention may be prepared according to the following general procedure: Mix the constituents of the aqueous phase by heating to a temperature of about 70 ° C. In addition, mix the oils and surfactants by heating at a temperature of about 80 ° C. Pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase at a temperature of approximately 70 ° C. and then stir for 10 minutes using a turbine at high speed. Cool the resulting emulsion to about 60 ° C. Then add the thickeners and stir again for 10 minutes. Cool to about 50 ° C. Then introduce the ascorbic acid or derivative previously mixed with water, then the other assets possibly-ment.

The invention will now be illustrated with the aid of the following nonlimiting examples. COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 A facial care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention (Example 1) having the following composition was prepared: - Blend of glyceryl monostearate and stearate of 2.5 polyethylene glycol (100 OE) (ARLACEL 165 FL from CRODA) - PEG stearate (20 OE) (MYRJ 49 P from Uniquema) 1 g - Stearyl alcohol 1 g - Stearic acid 3 g - Apricot almond oil 5 g - Shea butter liquid fraction 6 g - Cyclohexasiloxane 5 g - Pentaerythrityl tetrapentanoate 5 g - Isohexadecane 3 g - Beeswax 0.75 g - Silicone wax (Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax) 1 g - Dimethiconol mixture and dimethicone (Dow Corning 1503 Fluid) 1.5 g-magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g - glycosylated ascorbic acid 1 g-triethanolamine 0.85 g - acrylamide / acrylamido copolymer 2-methyl propane sulfonate 1.4 g sodium 40% inverse emulsion in isohexadecane / water (Simulgel 600 from Seppic) - Charges 3.1 g - Na 0.5 g - Adenosine 0.1 g - Potassium cetyl phosphate 1.5 g - Block copolymer OE-OP-OE (Synperonic PE / F108 0.2 g from CRODA) - Glycerol 8 g - Preservatives qs 100 g A similar composition, but not containing OE-OP-OE block copolymer (Synperonic PE / F108 from CRODA) and potassium cetyl phosphate (composition 1 'not forming part of the invention) was also prepared. (Deleted quantities replaced by the same weight of water). The emulsion of Example 1 exhibits good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. In microscopic observation, the resulting emulsion is fine and tight.

The composition is applied on the face in daily daytime use.

The comparative emulsion of Example 1 'is unstable after storage for 2 months at 45 ° C. The emulsion, observed under a microscope, is coarser and more degraded. With the naked eye, a phase shift with salting out on the surface of the oily phase is observed. Comparative Example 2:

A facial oil-in-water emulsion composition according to the invention (Example 2) having the following composition was prepared: - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and 2.5 g polyethylene glycol stearate (100 0E) (ARLACEL 165 FL from CRODA) - PEG stearate (20 0E) (MYRJ 49 P from Uniquema) 1 g - Stearyl alcohol 1 g - Stearic acid 3 g - Apricot almond oil 7.5 g - Rice bran oil 4.5 g - Beeswax 1.7 g - Cyclohexasiloxane 7 g - Blend of cross-linked poly dimethylsiloxane and poly dimethylsiloxane 2 g (6 cst) (24/76) (KSG 16 from Shin Etsu) - magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g - glycosylated ascorbic acid 1 g - triethanolamine 0.80 g - acrylamide / acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer of 1.3 g sodium in 40% inverse emulsion in isohexadecane / water ( Simulgel 600 from Seppic) - Charges 3.1 g - Nacre 0.5 g - Adenosine 0.1 g - Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.5 g - Block Copolymer OE-OP-OE (Synpe ronic PE / F108 0,2 g from CRODA) - Glycerol 5 g 35 40 - Butylene glycol 2g - Preservatives qs 100 g - Water qs A similar composition was also prepared but not containing an OE-OP-OE block copolymer ( Synperonic PE / F108 from CRODA) and potassium cetyl phosphate (composition 2 'not forming part of the invention) (suppressed quantities replaced by the same weight of water).

The emulsion of Example 2 exhibits good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C. and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. In microscopic observation, the resulting emulsion is fine and tight.

The composition is applied on the face in daily daytime use.

The comparative emulsion of Example 2 'is unstable after storage for 2 months at 45 ° C. The emulsion, observed under a microscope, is coarser and more degraded. With the naked eye, n shows a phase shift with salting out on the surface of the oily phase.

Example 3

A facial oil-in-water emulsion composition having the following composition was prepared: - glyceryl stearate 2 g - polyethylene glycol stearate (40 0E) (MYRJ 52 P from CRODA) 2.5 g Sorbitan tristearate (CRODA SPAN 65 V) 0.9 g Cetyl alcohol 4.4 g Apricot kernel oil 5 g Vaseline 2.5 g Beeswax 0.75 g Cyclohexasiloxane 9 g - Poly dimethylsiloxane alpha-omega dihydroxyl mixture / 4 g cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3) (Dow Corning 1501 FL from Dow Corning) - magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g - glycosylated ascorbic acid 2 g - Triethanolamine 1.20 g - Charges 3 g -Adenosine 0.1 g - Tocopherol 0.2 g - Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.5 g 20 25 5 10 - Block Copolymer OE-OP-OE (Synperonic PE / F108 0.2 g from CRODA ) - Glycerol 5 g - Preservatives qs 100 g - Water qs The emulsion obtained has good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C. and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. under the microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and tight.

The composition is applied on the face in daily daytime use.

Claims (15)

A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - a fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol; an additional surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan esters and C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters; a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks; an ascorbic acid compound chosen from ascorbic acid and its salts and glycosylated asbestosic acid. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ascorbic acid compound is selected from magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ascorbic acid compound is present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. . 20 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters having from 8 to 100 oxide units. ethylene. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is chosen from polyethylene glycol stearates. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol comprises from 20 to 40 ethylene oxide units. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a C16-C22 fatty acid ester and sorbitan selected from sorbitan stearates. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a C16-C22 fatty acid ester and glyceryl selected from glyceryl stearates. 40 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate. 35 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a triblock polycondensate polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and better from 2000. at 13000. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic or dermatological adjuvant selected from UV filters, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers. , dyestuffs, salts, surfactants, thickeners, bases. 15. Non-therapeutic method for the care or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.