FR2973691A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CUCURBIC ACID COMPOUND AND A SEMICRYSTALLINE ACRYLIC POLYMER - Google Patents
COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CUCURBIC ACID COMPOUND AND A SEMICRYSTALLINE ACRYLIC POLYMER Download PDFInfo
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- FR2973691A1 FR2973691A1 FR1152902A FR1152902A FR2973691A1 FR 2973691 A1 FR2973691 A1 FR 2973691A1 FR 1152902 A FR1152902 A FR 1152902A FR 1152902 A FR1152902 A FR 1152902A FR 2973691 A1 FR2973691 A1 FR 2973691A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 80
- -1 CUCURBIC ACID COMPOUND Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 9
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 title claims description 8
- LYSGIJUGUGJIPS-VWYCJHECSA-N UNPD204931 Natural products CCC=CC[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)CC[C@@H]1CC(O)=O LYSGIJUGUGJIPS-VWYCJHECSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 8
- LYSGIJUGUGJIPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-Cucurbic acid Natural products CCC=CCC1C(O)CCC1CC(O)=O LYSGIJUGUGJIPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 8
- FRUCUWUFGHVLGX-GUBZILKMSA-N cucurbic acid Natural products CCC=C/C[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)CC[C@@H]1C(=O)O FRUCUWUFGHVLGX-GUBZILKMSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 8
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 229920006126 semicrystalline polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 229920001519 homopolymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 25
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 14
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- AXMWVEOITAQHFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid Chemical compound CCCCCC1C(O)CCC1CC(O)=O AXMWVEOITAQHFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- JTHZUSWLNCPZLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-fluoro-3-methyl-2h-indazole Chemical compound FC1=CC=C2C(C)=NNC2=C1 JTHZUSWLNCPZLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 3
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical class OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- KHAYCTOSKLIHEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C=C KHAYCTOSKLIHEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000001160 methoxycarbonyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])OC(*)=O 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001225 therapeutic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 150000002314 glycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 125000004169 (C1-C6) alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 13
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
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- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 8
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 7
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 6
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 5
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 5
- XHZPRMZZQOIPDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid Chemical compound OS(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C XHZPRMZZQOIPDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-Pentadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 4
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 4
- LYSGIJUGUGJIPS-UOMVISFLSA-N (+)-cucurbic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)CC[C@@H]1CC(O)=O LYSGIJUGUGJIPS-UOMVISFLSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- IRLPACMLTUPBCL-KQYNXXCUSA-N 5'-adenylyl sulfate Chemical compound C1=NC=2C(N)=NC=NC=2N1[C@@H]1O[C@H](COP(O)(=O)OS(O)(=O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O IRLPACMLTUPBCL-KQYNXXCUSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ZMANZCXQSJIPKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethylamine Chemical class CCN(CC)CC ZMANZCXQSJIPKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 125000005908 glyceryl ester group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 description 3
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940043268 2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane Drugs 0.000 description 2
- XMVBHZBLHNOQON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-butyl-1-octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(CO)CCCC XMVBHZBLHNOQON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethylamine Chemical class CNC ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QUSNBJAOOMFDIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylamine Chemical class CCN QUSNBJAOOMFDIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241000282414 Homo sapiens Species 0.000 description 2
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FYYHWMGAXLPEAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Magnesium Chemical class [Mg] FYYHWMGAXLPEAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BAVYZALUXZFZLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methylamine Chemical class NC BAVYZALUXZFZLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920002701 Polyoxyl 40 Stearate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940048053 acrylate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- OIRDTQYFTABQOQ-KQYNXXCUSA-N adenosine Chemical compound C1=NC=2C(N)=NC=NC=2N1[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O OIRDTQYFTABQOQ-KQYNXXCUSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 238000005119 centrifugation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229910052802 copper Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 2
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol Natural products OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 2
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- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- MNWFXJYAOYHMED-UHFFFAOYSA-N heptanoic acid group Chemical class C(CCCCCC)(=O)O MNWFXJYAOYHMED-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopentadecane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229910052749 magnesium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000011777 magnesium Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 2
- 210000004400 mucous membrane Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 2
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- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 2
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- 239000000244 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 2
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- 229910052712 strontium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- CIOAGBVUUVVLOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N strontium atom Chemical class [Sr] CIOAGBVUUVVLOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylamine Chemical class CN(C)C GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PDHSAQOQVUXZGQ-JKSUJKDBSA-N (2r,3s)-2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-3-methoxy-3,4-dihydro-2h-chromene-5,7-diol Chemical compound C1([C@H]2OC3=CC(O)=CC(O)=C3C[C@@H]2OC)=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 PDHSAQOQVUXZGQ-JKSUJKDBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NRTKYSGFUISGRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-heptanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) heptanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCC NRTKYSGFUISGRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004178 (C1-C4) alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940043375 1,5-pentanediol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2,3-difluorophenyl)ethanone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=CC(F)=C1F PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OVYMWJFNQQOJBU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-octanoyloxypropan-2-yl octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCC OVYMWJFNQQOJBU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RWKSBJVOQGKDFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 2-hydroxypropanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)O RWKSBJVOQGKDFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-D Chemical compound OC(=O)COC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1Cl OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical class NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FWIUBOWVXREPPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-(7-methyloctanoyloxy)ethoxy]ethyl 7-methyloctanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCC(=O)OCCOCCOC(=O)CCCCCC(C)C FWIUBOWVXREPPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DWHIUNMOTRUVPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO DWHIUNMOTRUVPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GLCFQKXOQDQJFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC GLCFQKXOQDQJFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SFAAOBGYWOUHLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC SFAAOBGYWOUHLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XULHFMYCBKQGEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hexyl-1-Decanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCC XULHFMYCBKQGEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000954 2-hydroxyethyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])O[H] 0.000 description 1
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MWYGSCHWFNRSET-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-pentylcyclopentan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCC1CCCC1O MWYGSCHWFNRSET-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CYSSSYKSBHKJQE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-undecylpentadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCCCCC CYSSSYKSBHKJQE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
Abstract
L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant un composé d'acide cucurbique de formule (I) dans laquelle R représente un radical COOR , R désignant H ou un radical alkyle en C -C , éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ; R représente un radical hydrocarboné ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones ; une phase huileuse contenant un polymère semicristallin choisi parmi les homopolymères de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C -C , et une phase aqueuse. Application au soin et au maquillage des matières kératiniques.The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a cucurbic acid compound of formula (I) in which R represents a COOR radical, R denoting H or a C -C alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; R represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; an oily phase containing a semicrystalline polymer chosen from homopolymers of (C 1 -C 6) alkyl (meth) acrylate and an aqueous phase. Application to the care and makeup of keratin materials.
Description
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant un composé d'acide cucurbique et un polymère acrylique semicristallin, ainsi que l'utilisation de cette composition dans un procédé de traitement des matières kératiniques d'êtres humains. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a cucurbic acid compound and a semicrystalline acrylic polymer, as well as the use of this composition in a process for treating keratin materials of human beings .
Plus particulièrement, la composition de l'invention est destinée au soin et/ou au maquillage des matières kératiniques. More particularly, the composition of the invention is intended for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials.
Au sens de l'invention, on entend désigner par « matières kératiniques », par exemple, la peau, les muqueuses, les lèvres, le cuir chevelu, les cils, les sourcils et les cheveux. For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to mean, for example, the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair.
Il est connu dans la demande EP-A-1333021 des composés hydrogénés d'acide cucurbique comme l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique pour favoriser la desquamation de la peau et stimuler le renouvellement épidermique, lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané, améliorer l'éclat du teint et/ou lisser la peau du visage. Dans la demande FR-A62921255 ces composés sont également décrits pour leur utilisation comme agent dépigmentant. It is known in application EP-A-1333021 hydrogenated compounds of cucurbic acid such as 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid to promote desquamation of the skin and stimulate epidermal renewal, fight against the signs of cutaneous aging, improve the radiance of the complexion and / or smooth the skin of the face. In the application FR-A62921255 these compounds are also described for their use as a depigmenting agent.
Toutefois, l'introduction de ces composés hydrogénés d'acide cucurbique dans une émulsion huile-dans-eau engendre une instabilité de la composition, notamment après un stockage d'un mois, voire de deux mois à 45 °C : l'émulsion présente alors un déphasage d'huile en surface ; les globules d'huile dispersés dans la phase aqueuse ont un aspect grossier rendant l'émulsion non homogène. However, the introduction of these hydrogenated cucurbic acid compounds into an oil-in-water emulsion causes instability of the composition, in particular after storage for one month, or even two months at 45 ° C.: the emulsion presents then a phase shift of oil on the surface; the oil globules dispersed in the aqueous phase have a coarse appearance making the emulsion non-homogeneous.
Le but de la présente invention est donc de disposer d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant le composé hydrogéné d'acide cucurbique qui soit stable et homogène, notamment après stockage pendant un mois, voire deux mois à 45 °C. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide an oil-in-water emulsion comprising the hydrogenated cucurbic acid compound which is stable and homogeneous, especially after storage for one month, or even two months at 45 ° C.
L'inventeur a découvert qu'une telle émulsion stable peut être obtenue en utilisant un polymère semicristallin acrylique particulier . The inventor has discovered that such a stable emulsion can be obtained by using a particular acrylic semicrystalline polymer.
Plus précisément, la présente invention concerne une composition sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau , comprenant un composé d'acide cucurbique de formule (I) tel que décrit ci-après, une phase huileuse contenant un polymère semicristallin choisi parmi les homopolymères de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C10-C30 , et une phase aqueuse. More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a cucurbic acid compound of formula (I) as described below, an oily phase containing a semicrystalline polymer chosen from homopolymers of C10-C30 alkyl (meth) acrylate, and an aqueous phase.
La composition selon l'invention est en particulier une composition cosmétique. The composition according to the invention is in particular a cosmetic composition.
De manière surprenante, l'inventeur a observé que l'addition d'un composé d'acide cucurbique à une composition comprenant un polymère semicristallin tel que décrit précédemment n'affectait pas significativement la viscosité de ladite composition et permettait ainsi de formuler celle-ci sous une forme appropriée à sa manipulation lors de son application. Surprisingly, the inventor has observed that the addition of a cucurbic acid compound to a composition comprising a semicrystalline polymer as described previously does not significantly affect the viscosity of said composition and thus makes it possible to formulate it in a form suitable for its handling during its application.
Selon encore un autre de ses objets, la présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement non thérapeutique de soin ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques comprenant l'application sur lesdites matières kératiniques d'une composition conforme à l'invention. Le procédé est en particulier destiné au traitement de soin ou de maquillage de la peau. According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment care or makeup of keratin materials comprising the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. The method is in particular for treatment care or make-up of the skin.
Le composé dérivé d'acide cucurbique est un composé choisi parmi ceux répondant à la formule (I) suivante : OH R2 dans laquelle : R1 représente un radical COOR3, R3 désignant un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1-C4 , éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ; R2 représente un radical hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones, ou ramifié ou cyclique ayant de 3 à 18 atomes de carbone ; 20 ainsi que leurs isomères optiques, et sels correspondants. De préférence, R1 désigne un radical choisi parmi -000H, -COOMe, -000-CH2-CH3, -COO-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH , -000CH2-CH(OH)-CH3 . Préférentiellement, R1 désigne un radical -000H. Préférentiellement, R2 désigne un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire, saturé ou insaturé, et de préférence ayant de 2 à 7 atomes de carbone. En particulier, R2 peut être un radical pentyl, pentenyl, hexyle, heptyle. The compound derived from cucurbic acid is a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; As well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts. Preferably, R1 denotes a radical chosen from -000H, -COOMe, -000-CH2-CH3, -COO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH, -000CH2-CH (OH) -CH3 . Preferably, R1 denotes a -000H radical. Preferably, R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R2 may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.
30 Selon un mode de réalisation, le composé de formule (I) est choisi parmi l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-[(2Z)-2-pentenyl]-cyclopentane acétique ou l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique. De préférence, le composé (I) est l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique ; ce composé peut être notamment sous la forme de sel de sodium. (I) 25 35 Les sels des composés utilisables selon l'invention sont en particulier choisis parmi les sels de métal alcalin, par exemple sodium, potassium ; les sels de métal alcalino-terreux, par exemple calcium, magnésium, strontium, les sels métalliques, par exemple zinc, aluminium, manganèse, cuivre ; les sels d'ammonium de formule NH4+ ; les sels d'ammonium quaternaires ; les sels d'amines organiques, comme par exemple les sels de méthylamine, de diméthylamine, de triméthylamine, de triéthylamine, d'éthylamine, de 2-hydroxyéthylamine, de bis-(2-hydroxyéthyl)amine, de la tri-(2-hydroxyéthyl)amine ; les sels de lysine, d'arginine. On utilise de préférence les sels choisis parmi les sels de sodium, potassium, magnésium, strontium, cuivre, manganèse, zinc. Préférentiellement, on utilise le sel de sodium. According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl- cyclopentane acetic acid. Preferably, the compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid; this compound may especially be in the form of sodium salt. (I) The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4 +; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used.
Le composé de formule (I) défini précédemment peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 1 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1,5 % à 5 % en poids. The compound of formula (I) defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1.5% to 5% in weight.
La composition selon l'invention comprend un polymère semicristallin choisi parmi les homopolymères de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en 010-030. Par « polymères », on entend au sens de l'invention des composés comportant au moins 2 motifs de répétition, de préférence au moins 3 motifs de répétition, et plus spécialement au moins 10 motifs de répétition. Par « polymère semi-cristallin », on entend au sens de l'invention, des polymères comportant au moins une chaîne pendante cristallisable présentant une température de changement de phase réversible du premier ordre, en particulier de fusion (transition solide-liquide). Par « chaîne cristallisable », on entend une chaîne comportant au moins 10 atomes de carbone, et qui, si elle était seule, passerait de l'état amorphe à l'état cristallin, de façon réversible, selon qu'on est au-dessus ou en dessous de la température de fusion. Une chaîne au sens de l'invention est un groupement d'atomes, pendant ou latéral par rapport au squelette du polymère. Un polymère semi-cristallin convenant à l'invention peut présenter en particulier une température de fusion supérieure à la température de la peau. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, un polymère semi-cristallin à chaîne(s) latérale(s) cristallisable(s) convenant à l'invention peut présenter une température de35 fusion inférieure ou égale à 80 °C, et en particulier comprise dans une plage allant de 30 °C à 70 °C, en particulier de 40 °C à 65 °C, plus particulièrement de 42 °C à 60 °C, encore de 44 °C à 56 °C, voire de 44 °C à 54 °C, et plus particulièrement inférieure à 50 °C. Cette température ou point de fusion (Pf) peut être mesurée par toute méthode connue et en particulier avec un calorimètre à balayage différentiel (D.S.C). The composition according to the invention comprises a semicrystalline polymer chosen from homopolymers of (meth) acrylate of 0-10-030 alkyl. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units, and more especially at least 10 repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising at least one crystallizable pendant chain having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). "Crystallizable chain" means a chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, and which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A semicrystalline polymer that is suitable for the invention may in particular have a melting point higher than the skin temperature. According to a particular embodiment, a semicrystalline polymer having a lateral crystallizable chain (s) that is suitable for the invention may have a melting temperature of less than or equal to 80 ° C., and in particular included in a range from 30 ° C to 70 ° C, in particular from 40 ° C to 65 ° C, more particularly from 42 ° C to 60 ° C, still from 44 ° C to 56 ° C, or even from 44 ° C to 54 ° C ° C, and more particularly below 50 ° C. This temperature or melting point (Pf) can be measured by any known method and in particular with a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.).
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, le polymère peut être choisi 10 parmi les homopolymères résultant de la polymérisation d'un monomère à chaîne latérale cristallisable choisis parmi les (méth)acrylates d'alkyle saturés en C,o à Cso, qui peut être représenté par la formule suivante (Il) : According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer may be chosen from homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of a crystallizable side chain monomer chosen from saturated C 10 -C 10 alkyl (meth) acrylates, which can be represented by the following formula (II):
CH2 C-C-X-R R, (Il) 15 dans laquelle R, est H ou CH3, R représente un groupe alkyle en C,o à Cao, et X représente O. ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 is H or CH 3, R is C 1 -C 6 alkyl, and X is O.
Selon un mode plus particulier de réalisation de l'invention, le polymère est issu de la polymérisation de monomères à chaîne cristallisable choisi parmi les (méth)acrylates 20 d'alkyle saturés en C,o à Cao, et plus particulièrement les homopolymères résultant de la polymérisation d'un monomère à chaîne cristallisable choisi parmi les acrylates d'alkyle en C14-C24 et les méthacrylates d'alkyle en C14-C24. According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from the polymerization of monomers with a crystallizable chain chosen from (C 3 to C 10) saturated alkyl (meth) acrylates, and more particularly the homopolymers resulting from polymerizing a crystallizable chain monomer selected from C14-C24 alkyl acrylates and C14-C24 alkyl methacrylates.
A titre d'exemple particulier de polymères semi-cristallins utilisables dans une 25 composition selon l'invention, on peut citer les produits Intelimer TM de la société Landec décrits dans la brochure « Intelimer TM polymers », Landec IP22. Ces polymères sont sous forme solide à température ambiante. Ils portent des chaînes latérales cristallisables et correspondent à des homopolymères d'acrylates ou méthacrylates d'alkyle en C14-C24 saturé. 30 On peut également citer comme polymère semi-cristallin convenant aux compositions selon la présente invention, l'homopolymère d'acrylate de stéaryle tel que celui commercialisé sous la dénomination Intelimer® IPA 13-1, de la société LANDEC ou de5 la société AIR PRODUCT and CHEMICALS, ou l'homopolymère d'acrylate de béhényle (tel que l'Intelimer® IPA-13.6) (nom INCI : Poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate). Le polymère semi-cristallin peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 3 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. De préférence, la teneur dudit polymère peut aller de 0,1 % à 2 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Préférentiellement, la teneur dudit polymère peut aller de 0,2 % à 2,5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. As a particular example of semicrystalline polymers that can be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer TM products from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimer TM Polymers", Landec IP22. These polymers are in solid form at room temperature. They carry crystallizable side chains and correspond to homopolymers of saturated C14-C24 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. Mention may also be made, as semicrystalline polymer which is suitable for the compositions according to the present invention, of stearyl acrylate homopolymer, such as that sold under the name Intelimer® IPA 13-1, from LANDEC or from AIR PRODUCT. and CHEMICALS, or the homopolymer of behenyl acrylate (such as Intelimer® IPA-13.6) (INCI name: Poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate). The semi-crystalline polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of said polymer may range from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of said polymer may range from 0.2% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Avantageusement, le composé d'acide cucurbique de formule (I) (dit A) et polymère semicristallin (dit B) décrits précédemment peuvent être présents dans la composition selon l'invention selon un rapport pondéral A /B allant de 0,5 à 2. De préférence, ce rapport pondéral NB peut aller de 0,7 à 1,5. La composition cosmétique selon l'invention comprend un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec les matières et/ou les fibres kératiniques d'êtres humains, comme par exemple, de manière non limitative, la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles, le cuir chevelu et/ou les cheveux. 20 La composition comprend une phase aqueuse. Advantageously, the cucurbic acid compound of formula (I) (called A) and semicrystalline polymer (said B) described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio A / B ranging from 0.5 to 2. Preferably, this NB weight ratio can range from 0.7 to 1.5. The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the materials and / or the keratinous fibers of human beings, such as, for example, without limitation, the skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair. The composition comprises an aqueous phase.
La composition peut comprendre de l'eau en une teneur allant de 20 % à 95 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 30 % à 90 25 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 40 % à 70 % en poids. The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 70% by weight.
L'eau peut être une eau florale telle que l'eau de bleuet et/ou une eau minérale telle que l'eau de VITTEL, l'eau de LUCAS ou l'eau de LA ROCHE POSAY et/ou une eau thermale. 30 La composition peut comprendre en outre un solvant organique miscible à l'eau à la température ambiante (25 °C) notamment choisi parmi les monoalcools ayant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone tels que l'éthanol, l'isopropanol ; les polyols ayant notamment de 2 à 20 atomes de carbones, de préférence ayant de 35 2 à 10 atomes de carbone, et préférentiellement ayant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbones, tels que la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol ;15 les éthers de glycol (ayant notamment de 3 à 16 atomes de carbone) tels que les alkyl(C1-C4)éther de mono, di- ou tripropylène glycol, les alkyl(C1-C4)éthers de mono, di- ou triéthylène glycol ; et leurs mélanges. La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un solvant organique miscible à l'eau à la température ambiante, notamment un polyol, en une teneur allant de 1 % à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence allant de 3 % à 15 % en poids. Avantageusement, la composition selon l'invention a un pH allant de 5,5 à 7,5 . L'émulsion selon l'invention comprend également une phase huileuse. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The composition may further comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C.), especially chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as the mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol; and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at ambient temperature, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.5. The emulsion according to the invention also comprises an oily phase.
15 Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple : - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de 20 maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations « Miglyol 810 », « 812 » et « 818 » par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité; 25 - les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R1COOR2 et R1 OR2 dans laquelle R1 représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le 30 palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle ; les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de 35 néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle ; - les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de parléam ; 40 - les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique), l'octyldodécanol, le 2- 10 butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique , - les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912 ; - les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényldiméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthylsiloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ; - leurs mélanges. As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acids or octanoic or, for example, sunflower oil, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado oil caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810", "812" and "818" by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, Shea Butter; Esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a chain hydrocarbonaceous, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; Fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.
On entend par « huile hydrocarbonée » dans la liste des huiles citées ci-dessus, toute huile comportant majoritairement des atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et éventuellement des groupements ester, éther, fluoré, acide carboxylique et/ou alcool. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
Les autres corps gras pouvant être présents dans la phase huileuse sont par exemple les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique et l'acide oléique ; les cires comme la lanoline, la cire d'abeille, la cire de Carnauba ou de Candellila, les cires de paraffine, de lignite ou les cires microcristallines, la cérésine ou l'ozokérite, les cires synthétiques comme les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de Fischer-Tropsch ; les résines de silicone telles que la trifluorométhyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone et la trifluoropropyldimethicone ; et les élastomères de silicone comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations « KSG » par la société Shin-Etsu, sous les dénominations « Trefil », « BY29 » ou « EPSX » par la société Dow Corning ou sous les dénominations « Gransil » par la société Grant Industries. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.
La proportion de la phase huileuse de l'émulsion peut aller de 5 à 80 % en poids, et de préférence de 5 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un émulsionnant. Comme émulsionnant, on peut citer par exemple : les esters d'acides gras et de glycérol oxyalkylénés (plus particulièrement polyoxyéthylénés) ; les esters d'acides gras et de sorbitan oxyalkylénés (plus particulièrement polyoxyéthylénés) ; les esters d'acides gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les esters de sucres comme le stéarate de sucrose ; et leurs mélanges tels que le mélange de stéarate de glycéryle et de stéarate de PEG-40 ; les esters d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol ; les esters d'acide gras en C16-C22 et de glycéryle ; les acides gras en C16-C22. The composition according to the invention may comprise an emulsifier. Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include: esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and glycerol (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of sorbitan (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glyceryl; C16-C22 fatty acids.
Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, l'émulsionnant peut être un ester d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol. According to one embodiment of the invention, the emulsifier may be a fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol.
L'ester d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol présent est de préférence un ester d'acides gras en C16-C22 comportant de 8 à 100 unités d'oxyde éthylène. The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester present is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester having from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.
La chaîne grasse des esters ou éthers décrits précédemment peut être une chaine en C12-C2 ;elle peut , elle peut être notamment choisie parmi les motifs stéaryle, béhényle, arachidyle, palmityle, cetyle et leurs mélanges tel que cétéaryle. De préférence, la chaine grasse est une chaîne stéaryle. Le nombre d'unités d'oxyde d'éthylène peut aller de 8 à 100, de préférence de 10 à 80, et mieux de 10 à 50. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, ce nombre peut aller de 20 à 40. A titre d'exemple d'ester d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol, on peut citer les esters d'acide stéarique comprenant respectivement 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 unités d'oxyde d'éthylène, tels que les produit commercialisés respectivement sous la dénomination Myrj 49 P (stéarate de polyéthylène glycol 20 OE ; nom CTFA : PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (stéarate de polyéthylèneglycol 40 OE ; nom CTFA : PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53, Myrj 59 P par la société CRODA. L'ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras peut être obtenu notamment à partir d'un acide comportant une chaîne alkyle linéaire saturée, ayant de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone. Comme ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras, on peut citer notamment le stéarate de glycéryle (mono-, di- et/ou tri-stéarate de glycéryle) (nom CTFA : Glyceryl stearate), le ricinoléate de glycéryle, et leurs mélanges. De préférence, l'ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras utilisé est choisi parmi les stéarates de glycéryle.35 En particulier, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un mélange d'un ester d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol, et d'un ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras tels que décrits précédemment. La composition de l'invention peut comprendre notamment un mélange de stéarate de glycéryle et de monostéarate de polyéthylène glycol 100 0E, et en particulier celui comprenant un mélange 50/50, commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 165 par la société Croda. 10 L'émulsionnant peut être présent dans une composition de l'invention en une proportion allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, et en particulier de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 15 La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un gélifiant hydrophile permettant d'épaissir la phase aqueuse de la composition. Le gélifiant hydrophile peut être choisi par exemple parmi : (i) les polymères carboxyvinyliques (comme les polymères d'acide acrylique, 20 éventuellement réticulé), tels que les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Carbopol (nom INCI : Carbomer) par la société Goodrich ; le polyacrylate de sodium ; (ii) les polyacrylamides et les polymères et copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, éventuellement réticulés et/ou neutralisés, comme le poly(acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique) commercialisé par la société 25 Hoechst sous la dénomination « Hostacerin AMPS » (nom INCI : ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) ; les copolymères anioniques réticulés d'acrylamide et d'AMPS, se présentant sous la forme d'une émulsion, tels ceux commercialisés sous le nom de SEPIGEL 305 (nom C.T.F.A. : Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) et sous le nom de SIMULGEL 600 (nom C.T.F.A. : Acrylamide / Sodium 30 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) par la société SEPPIC ; les copolymères anioniques réticulés d'acide acrylique et d'AMPS, se présentant sous la forme d'une émulsion, tels ceux commercialisés sous le nom de SIMULGEL EG (nom CTFA : Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) ; les copolymères acide 2-acrylamido 2- 35 méthylpropane sulfonique /méthacrylate d'alcool en C12-C14 éthoxylé (ARISTOFLEX LNC de chez Clariant), les copolymères acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique / méthacrylate de stéaryle éthoxylé (ARISTOFLEX HMS et ARISTOFLEX SNC de chez Clariant) ; (iii) les polysaccharides comme les gommes de xanthane, les gomme de guar, les 40 alginates, les polymères de celluloses comme l'hydroxyéthyl cellulose, l'hydroxypropyl cellulose, la carboxyméthyl cellulose ; (iv) les composés inorganiques tels que les smectites, les hectorites modifiées ou non telles que les produits BENTONE commercialisés par la société Rheox, les produits LAPONITE commercialisés par la société Southern Clay Products, le produit 45 VEEGUM HS commercialisé par la société R.T.Vanderbilt. Parmi ces gélifiants hydrophiles, on choisira plus particulièrement les polysaccharides décrits précédemment et en particulier la gomme de xanthane.5 Le gélifiant hydrophile peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,1 % à 5 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 0,1 % à 3 % en poids. The fatty chain of the esters or ethers described above may be a C12-C2 chain, it may, in particular, be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Preferably, the fatty chain is a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to By way of example of fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as product sold respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 , Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA. The glyceryl ester of fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of a fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, and a glyceryl ester and fatty acid as described above. The composition of the invention may comprise in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda. The emulsifier may be present in a composition of the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent making it possible to thicken the aqueous phase of the composition. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen for example from: (i) carboxyvinyl polymers (such as acrylic acid polymers, optionally crosslinked), such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; sodium polyacrylate; (ii) polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of an emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylic acid and of AMPS, in the form of an emulsion, such as those sold under the name SIMULGEL EG (CTFA name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid / ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate copolymers (ARISTOFLEX LNC from Clariant), 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid / ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate copolymers (ARISTOFLEX HMS and ARISTOFLEX SNC). from Clariant); (iii) polysaccharides such as xanthan gums, guar gum, alginates, cellulosic polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose; (iv) inorganic compounds such as smectites, modified or non-modified hectorites such as BENTONE products marketed by Rheox, LAPONITE products marketed by Southern Clay Products, 45 VEEGUM HS sold by R.T.Vanderbilt. Among these hydrophilic gelling agents, the polysaccharides described above and in particular xanthan gum will be chosen more particularly. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.
La composition selon l'invention peut contenir également des adjuvants habituels dans le domaine considéré, tels que des émulsionnants, des gélifiants lipophiles, des cires, des additifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, des conservateurs, des antioxydants, des solvants, des parfums, des charges, des filtres UVA et ou UVB (organique ou inorganique, solubles ou insolubles ), des pigments, des fibres, des agents chélateurs, des absorbeurs d'odeur, des matières colorantes, et d'autres actifs cosmétiques. The composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the field under consideration, such as emulsifiers, lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UVA and / or UVB filters (organic or inorganic, soluble or insoluble), pigments, fibers, chelating agents, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, and other cosmetic active agents.
Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans le domaine cosmétique, et peuvent par exemple varier de 0,01 % à 30 % du poids total de la composition. De manière générale, les quantités sont ajustées en fonction de la formulation réalisée. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and may, for example, vary from 0.01% to 30% of the total weight of the composition. In general, the quantities are adjusted according to the formulation produced.
Avantageusement, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un élastomère de silicone. Des exemples d'élastomères de silicone sont décrits dans la demande WO-A-2009/080958. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise a silicone elastomer. Examples of silicone elastomers are described in application WO-A-2009/080958.
Une composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous la forme d'un produit de soin, d'un produit solaire ou après solaire, d'un produit de soin de photo-protection quotidienne, d'un produit pour le corps, d'un fond de teint à appliquer sur le visage ou sur le cou, d'un produit anti-cernes, d'un correcteur de teint, d'une crème teintée ou d'une base de maquillage pour le maquillage pour le visage ou d'une composition de maquillage pour le corps. A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after solar, a daily photo-protection care product, a product for the body, a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or a makeup base for face makeup or a makeup composition for the body.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention ressortiront mieux des exemples qui suivent, donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif. Dans ce qui suit ou ce qui précède, les proportions sont données en pourcentage pondéral, sauf indications contraires. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated.
Exemples 1 à 3 comparatifs : On a réalisé une composition (crème de soin du visage) selon l'invention (ex 1) contenant le sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique et le polymère semicristallin homopolymère de polyacrylate de stéaryle (Intelimer® IPA 13-1 de la société AIR PRODUCT and CHEMICALS) et deux compositions similaires ne faisant pas partie de l'invention : l'une sans le polymère semicristallin (ex 2) , et l'autre sans le sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique (ex 3). Pour chaque composition, on a effectué : une centrifugation pendant 1 heure à 25 °C et à 900 G ; une évaluation microscopique de la composition. On a obtenu les résultats suivants : Exemple 1 (invention) 2 (hors invention) 3 (hors invention) Sel de sodium de l'acide 3- 6,67 % soit 2 % 6,67 % soit 2 % hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentan MA MA e acétique à 30 % dans un mélange eau/dipropylène glycol (70/30) Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Sel disodique de l'acide éthylène 0,3 0,3 0,3 diamine tétracétique Adénosine 0,1 0,1 0,1 Cire d'abeille 2 2 2 Beurre de karité 5 5 5 Salicylate de 2-éthyl hexyle 5 5 5 cyano-3,3-diphénylacrylate de 2- 7 7 7 éthyl hexyle Salicylate d'homomentyle 6 6 6 Gomme de xanthane 0,2 0,2 0,2 (RHODICARE XC de chez Rhodia) Copolymère réticulé acide 0,3 0,3 0,3 acrylique/methacrylate d'alkyl C10-C30 (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER de chez Lubrizol) Polyacrylate de sodium 0,5 0,5 0,5 (Cosmedia SP de chez Cognis) Polyacrylate de stéaryle 2 0 2 (Intelimer IPA 13-1 de chez Landec) microspheres de silice 1 1 1 (Sunsphere H 51 de chez AGC SI-Tech) Dimethicone 10 cst 3,5 3,5 3,5 mélange de poly 3 3 3 diméthylsiloxane réticulé et de poly diméthylsiloxane (6 cst) (24/76) (KSG 16 de chez Shin Etsu) Glycérol 5 5 5 Hyaluronate de sodium 0,1 0,1 0,1 (CRISTALHYAL de chez Soliance) Caprylyl glycol 0,3 0,3 0,3 Acide stéarique 1,2 1,2 1,2 Mélange de stéarate de glycéryle 2 2 2 et de PEG-100 stéarate (ARLACEL® 165 FL de chez Uniqema) Conservateur Qs Qs qs centrifugation homogène homogène Non homogène aspect microscopique homogène homogène hétérogène Ces essais montrent que la formule placébo sans l'actif acide (ex 2) est stable et homogène. La formule contenant que le sel de sodium de l'acide 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique (ex 3) n'est pas stable : l'introduction de cet actif dans le support placébo déstabilise la composition. La formule selon l'invention (ex 1) contenant le sel de sodium de l'acide 3- hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acétique et le polymère semicristallin est stable et homogène. Ce polymère semicristallin permet ainsi de stabiliser la composition contenant l'actif acide. Comparative Examples 1 to 3: A composition (facial cream) according to the invention (ex 1) containing the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid and the semicrystalline homopolymer polymer was prepared. of stearyl polyacrylate (Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from the company AIR PRODUCT and CHEMICALS) and two similar compositions not forming part of the invention: one without the semicrystalline polymer (ex 2), and the other without the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid (ex 3). For each composition, centrifugation was carried out for 1 hour at 25 ° C and 900 G; a microscopic evaluation of the composition. The following results were obtained: EXAMPLE 1 (Invention) 2 (Excluding the Invention) 3 (Excluding Invention) Sodium salt of 3-6.67% acid, that is 2% 6.67% or 2% hydroxy-2-pentyl -cyclopentan MA MA e acetic acid 30% in a mixture of water and dipropylene glycol (70/30) Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Disodium salt of ethylene acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 diamine tetracetic Adenosine 0.1 0, 1 0.1 Beeswax 2 2 2 Shea butter 5 5 5 2-ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 2-7,7 ethylhexylate Homomentyl salicylate 6 6 6 xanthane 0.2 0.2 0.2 (RHODICARE XC from Rhodia) Acrylic cross-linked copolymer 0.3 0.3 0.3 acrylic / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER from Lubrizol) Polyacrylate sodium 0.5 0.5 0.5 (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) Stearyl polyacrylate 2 (Intelimer IPA 13-1 from Landec) silica microspheres 1 1 1 (Sunsphere H 51 from AGC SI-Tech) Dimethicone 10 cst 3,5 3,5 3,5 mixture of poly 3 3 3 dimethylsiloxane crosslinked and poly (dimethylsiloxane) (6 cst) (24/76) (KSG 16 from Shin Etsu) Glycerol 5 5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 0.1 (CRISTALHYAL from Soliance) Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0 , 3 0.3 Stearic acid 1.2 1.2 1.2 Mixture of glyceryl stearate 2 2 2 and PEG-100 stearate (ARLACEL® 165 FL from Uniqema) Preservative Qs Qs qs homogeneous homogeneous centrifugation Non homogeneous microscopic appearance heterogeneous homogeneous homogeneous These tests show that the placebo formula without the acidic active ingredient (ex 2) is stable and homogeneous. The formula containing the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid (ex 3) is not stable: the introduction of this active ingredient into the placebo support destabilizes the composition. The formula according to the invention (ex 1) containing the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid and the semicrystalline polymer is stable and homogeneous. This semicrystalline polymer thus makes it possible to stabilize the composition containing the acidic active agent.
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US8932573B2 (en) * | 2013-03-22 | 2015-01-13 | L'oreal | Mascara compositions comprising a semicrystalline polymer, a silicone elastomer, and a hydrophilic gelling agent |
FR3008611B1 (en) * | 2013-07-18 | 2016-09-23 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CUCURBIC ACID COMPOUND AND ANIONIC SURFACTANT DERIVED FROM AMINO ACID |
US9237998B2 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2016-01-19 | L'oreal | Carrier system for water-soluble active ingredients |
US9545373B2 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2017-01-17 | L'oreal | Translucent cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion |
US9034833B1 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2015-05-19 | L'oreal | Anti-aging composition containing high levels of a jasmonic acid derivative |
US9539198B2 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2017-01-10 | L'oreal | Photoprotection composition containing high levels of water-soluble UV filters |
US9943477B2 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2018-04-17 | L'oreal | Emulsion compositions containing a novel preservative system |
CN108295306B (en) * | 2017-12-22 | 2020-12-25 | 香港大学深圳医院 | Three-dimensional printing hydrogel material containing mesoporous nano calcium phosphate particle filler and preparation method thereof |
CN113438938A (en) * | 2018-12-25 | 2021-09-24 | 莱雅公司 | Composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials |
WO2020132856A1 (en) * | 2018-12-25 | 2020-07-02 | L'oreal | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
WO2020132860A1 (en) * | 2018-12-25 | 2020-07-02 | L'oreal | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
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WO2009080953A2 (en) | 2007-12-05 | 2009-07-02 | L'oreal | Cosmetic make-up and/or care method using a siloxane resin and a phenyl silicone oil |
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