FR3117799A1 - Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, surfactant, oils, fillers and ascorbic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, a surfactant, oils, fillers and ascorbic acid The present invention relates to a composition comprising an aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, a fatty phase comprising a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty amides, and a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from esters of isononanoic acid, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms and/or carbonates, a surfactant chosen from glycerol esters, a filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads; and at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Composition comprising aqueous gelling agents, surfactant, oils, fillers and ascorbic acid

The present invention relates to the field of care and/or makeup for keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

By “ keratin materials ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant in particular the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or of the face, and more preferably of the face.

Skin aging results from the effects on the skin of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. During the aging process, an alteration in the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles resulting from slackening and loss of tissue elasticity.

On the other hand, intrinsic aging, which induces changes in the skin, causes in particular a slowdown in the renewal of skin cells, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue. and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, loss of vertical fibers from the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

It is known to introduce active ingredients into cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions with a view to combating the signs of ageing.

For example, it has been sought for a long time to formulate ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in various galenic forms, because of its numerous beneficial properties, in particular in large quantities, for example greater than 5% in weight.

In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and in particular of collagen, strengthens the defenses of the cutaneous tissue against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments the skin and has an anti-free radical function. Due to its properties, ascorbic acid is effective in combating the signs of skin aging, for example in improving the radiance of the complexion and reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles in the skin.

Unfortunately, these active ingredients are often unstable in an oxidizing medium and therefore very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, oxygen and water. This therefore results in a rapid degradation of these active ingredients when they are in contact with one of these parameters in particular, which goes against the desired effectiveness.

In addition, it remains very difficult to implement them in large quantities, in particular greater than 5% by weight, while maintaining satisfactory sensory results.

In fact, compositions containing a large amount of ascorbic acid may have certain drawbacks, including that of affecting the sensory properties of the products, in particular providing unwanted effects.

In particular, the compositions containing a large amount of ascorbic acid may exhibit an alteration in the sensory properties of the products, by providing a sticky and/or shiny, rough or slowing effect on the skin, a lack of freshness and of comfort.

Furthermore, the sensory properties of a cosmetic formulation for body care are characterized by several criteria, among which mention may be made of the feeling of softness provided to the user when applying the composition to the skin, but also the phenomenon known as "soaping" considered unacceptable. This phenomenon is characterized by the appearance of a whitish film on the skin, when the formulation is applied to the skin.

To counter these harmful effects, it is in particular known to use silicone compounds.

However, this technical solution has the disadvantage of introducing constituent ingredients of cosmetic formulations which are not desired by consumers. Indeed, current consumer requirements tend to favor the absence of silicone compounds in cosmetic compositions.

Finally, it should be noted that the combination of certain active ingredients, in particular anti-aging, can accentuate the alterations mentioned above.

There therefore remains the need for a composition which can be used in particular in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, containing ascorbic acid and/or one of its stabilized derivatives in high contents, in particular greater than 5% by weight, and which exhibits enhanced sensory properties.

In particular, there remains the need for a composition which can be used in particular in the cosmetics field, containing ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives stabilized in high contents, which does not soap.

There also remains the need for a composition that can be used in particular in the cosmetics field, containing ascorbic acid and/or one of its stabilized derivatives in high contents, which provides a soft finish on application.

There also remains the need to have a composition containing ascorbic acid and/or one of its stabilized derivatives in high levels providing a good level of sensory pleasure, in particular in terms of consistency and comfort, or even freshness, with a substantial reduction in greasy residue, stickiness, roughness and/or shiny effect on the skin.

Finally, there also remains a need to have compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view.

The invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight composition;
- at least one fatty phase comprising at least (i) one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, (ii) one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty amides, and (iii) one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from esters of isononanoic acid, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms and/or carbonates;
- at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters;
- at least one filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads; And
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to effectively stabilize ascorbic acid and its derivatives in large quantities, optionally in combination with other active agents, while exhibiting improved sensory properties.

Indeed, as emerges from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention are stable while exhibiting organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user. They do not soap and have very good sensoriality, in particular they have a soft, non-sticky and non-shiny finish.

They also advantageously make it possible to implement a large number of active ingredients, while retaining these properties.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not include controversial ingredients, and in particular does not include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives, or silicone compounds, or parabens.

Thus, the compositions in accordance with the invention meet environmental requirements and consumer requirements.

A composition according to the invention is in particular used for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably for caring for keratin materials.

Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge better on reading the description and the examples which follow.

detailed description

Ascorbic acid and derivatives

As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or of one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C , and/or one of its derivatives, and more preferably of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 12% by weight of active material, and more preferably from 6% to 11% by weight of active material, of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or of one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 12% by weight of active material, and more preferably from 6% to 11% by weight of active material, of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition .

The ascorbic acid can be in the D or L form, advantageously in the L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

As a derivative of ascorbic acid, particular mention may be made of the saccharide esters of ascorbic acid and the metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

The ose esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated Nacetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or alternatively 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds, as well as their methods of preparation, are described in particular in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and JP5213736.

For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

The derivatives of ascorbic acid suitable according to the present invention can be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by the Exsymol Company, the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl -ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by the company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by the company Hayashibara.

Preferably, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is used.

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 5% to 12% by weight in active matter of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, in particular from 5.5% to 10% by weight, of preferably from 6% to 9% by weight, and more preferably from 6.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Gelling agents of the aqueous phase

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido acid 2-methylpropane sulfonic, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is gelled with at least 1.8% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, in particular at least 1.9% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and more preferably at least 2% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid are present in the composition in a mass ratio equal to 1/3.

Homopolymer d ' 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid

The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprises 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units of formula (I) below:

wherein X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion.

As 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or uncrosslinked homopolymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked homopolymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant.

Preferably, as homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of crosslinked homopolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropane ammonium sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), in particular the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant.

The concentration of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer (i.e. in active ingredient) generally ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 1% to 2% by weight.

H cross-linked omopolymer d ' acrylic acid

Cross-linked homopolymer of acrylic acid is an anionic synthetic thickening polymer.

Among the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as for example the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA.

Such acrylic homopolymers may be present in the composition in particulate or non-particulate form. When they are in particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 μm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5 μm. Their average size in the dry or non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 μm, preferably less than or equal to 1 μm.

Preferably, the acrylic acid homopolymer is present in non-particulate form.

Preferably, an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer is used. The homopolymer used according to the invention is in particular chosen from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.

The acrylic acid homopolymer can advantageously be neutralized at a rate ranging from 5% to 80%.

Among these acrylic polymers already neutralized before their implementation, we can cite for example:
- sodium polyacrylates, in particular those marketed under the name Cosmedia SP ^® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL ^® in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene ) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis;
- partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates, in particular in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name ^Luvigel® EM by the company BASF; And
- their mixtures.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises sodium polyacrylate, in particular that marketed under the name Cosmedia ^SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, sold by the company Cognis.

It is also possible to use an acrylic acid polymer that has not been neutralized beforehand, which is then partially or totally neutralized before implementation by any appropriate means and in particular by adding any base such as soda, potassium hydroxide, an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine . For example, sodium polyacrylates are obtained. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for the present invention.

The neutralization step, for example by sodium or potassium counterions, is important to give the acid polymers their properties of gelling and therefore of stabilizing the composition. Said acrylic polymers are converted into corresponding acrylate polymers during this neutralization step.

The concentration of crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid (i.e. of active material), preferably at least partially neutralized, generally ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.3% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid is an at least partially neutralized homopolymer of acrylic acid, and preferably is at least one sodium polyacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of natural hydrophilic gelling agent or of natural origin, and in particular devoid of non-starch polysaccharides.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sodium Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer type.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tautate Copolymer type (INCI name).

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the crosslinked acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate sodium type.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of anionic terpolymer type of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl]amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and lauryl acrylate tetraethoxylated and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of hydrophilic gelling agent of the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate steareth 25 methacrylate crosspolymer type.

Oily phase

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase of the composition comprises at least (i) one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, (ii) one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty amides, and (iii) one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from esters of isononanoic acid, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms and/or carbonates.

By “ oil ”, is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Preferably, the fatty phase content of a composition according to the invention ranges from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 10% to 20% by weight, and more preferably ranges from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil (i) : volatile hydrocarbon oil

As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term " hydrocarbon oil " means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

By “ volatile oil ” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg ).

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular the branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as the C ₈ -C ₁₆ iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), the isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkane, and more particularly isododecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and of n -tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil (i) is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from C ₈ -C ₁₆ iso-alkanes, and preferably being isododecane .

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of volatile linear alkane comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular is devoid of a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n- tridecane (C ₁₃ ).

Preferably, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably ranges from 2 % to 20% by weight, and even more preferably ranges from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil (ii): non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from fatty amides

By " non-volatile " is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ^{- 3} mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

Among the fatty amides, mention may in particular be made of Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name “Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, oil (ii) is lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate.

Preferably, the content of fatty amide(s) is between 1% and 15% by weight, in particular between 2% and 12% by weight, and preferably between 4% and 6% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil (iii): non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from the esters of ' acid isononanoic , synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and/or carbonates

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil (iii) is chosen from esters of isononanoic acid.

Among the isononanoic acid esters, mention may in particular be made of isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, and isostearyl isononanoate.

Preferably, the isononanoic acid ester is isononyl isononanoate.

According to another preferred embodiment, the oil (iii) is chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

Among the synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of dicaprylyl ether, for example marketed under the reference Cetiol OE by Cognis, or PPG-14 butyl ether.

Preferably, the synthetic ether having 10 to 40 carbon atoms is dicaprylyl ether.

According to another preferred embodiment, the oil (iii) is chosen from carbonates.

The carbonates can be chosen in particular from dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, and preferably is dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol ^CC® ” by the company Cognis.

Preferably, the oil (iii) is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether and/or dicaprylyl carbonate.

Preferably, the content of oil(s) (iii) is between 1% and 15% by weight, in particular between 2% and 12% by weight, and preferably between 4% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional oils

A composition according to the invention may also comprise additional oils other than oils (i), (ii) and (iii).

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile and/or non-volatile. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term " fluorinated oil " means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “ silicone oil ” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone oil(s). , preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), and more preferably is devoid of silicone oil(s).

The additional non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof,
- non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20° C. measured with a Rheomat RM100 ^® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. By "non-volatile alkane" is meant a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999/13/EC of March 11, 1992: “Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K”. In particular, the non-volatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms. carbon, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic,
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triesters of glycerides which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter possibly be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,
- synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R ₁ represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of alcohols having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the benzoate of 2- ethylphenyl such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, oleyl erucate, 2- ethyl-hexyl, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate as the product ven under the name of “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear di-alkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear di-alkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms carbon, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,
- higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
as well as mixtures of these different oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from non-volatile alkanes, and more preferably at least one mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of additional synthetic esters, and in particular is devoid of isopropyl myristate.

The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes of Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

Among fatty alcohol waxes, mention may be made of lauric or lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, cerylic alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of fatty alcohol wax, and preferably devoid of cetyl alcohol.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate and an oil chosen from esters of isononanoic acid, preferably isononyl isononanoate.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate and at least one oil chosen from isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and dicapryl ether.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, and a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) ranges from 2% to 25% by weight, in particular ranges from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranges from 8% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By “ water-soluble solvent ” according to the present invention is meant a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerine, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

According to one embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C ₂ -C ₃₂ polyol.

By “ polyol ”, it is necessary to understand, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at ambient temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention can be a compound of the alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions, and more particularly minus four –OH functions.

The polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

The polyol may for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol , caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, and preferably at least pentylene glycol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8% to 17% by weight of glycerol, relative to the weight composition total.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 88% by weight, and more preferably from 45% to 85% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Surfactants

As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactants other than said surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one gemini surfactant as additional surfactant.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 18% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant chosen from glycerol esters

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters.

The glycerol esters can be chosen from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and glyceryl esters.

The glyceryl fatty acid ester can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly at least one mono-, di- and/or triester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms.

As ester of glyceryl and of C ₁₈ fatty acid, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tri-glyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the glyceryl and fatty acid ester used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

Preferably, the glyceryl stearate is that marketed by Ashland under the name Cera Synt SD-ISP, or else that marketed by Stéarinerie Dubois under the name DUB GMS 50/50.

Preferably, the mono-, di- and/or triester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms is present in a content of between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight, and more preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight.

As a glycerol ester, a composition of the invention may also comprise a fatty acid polyglycerol ester containing from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

We can cite for example the following commercial products:
- Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate: Dermosoft DGMC (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft Q-10D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.); Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-5 Caprate: Sunsoft A-10E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate: Glysurf 6MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate: Sunsoft Q-10S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); SY-Glyster MD-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo) (Celless Laboratory Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate;
- Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate: Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.), Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate: Resassol PG4C (Res Pharma Srl);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate: Caprol 6GC8 (Abitec Corporation); Dermofeel G 6 CY (Dr. Straetmans), Sunsoft Q-81F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate: NatraGem S150 (Croda Europe, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate: Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate: SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate: Dermofeel G 2 L (Dr. Straetmans); DL-100 (Riken Vitamin Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate: Hydramol TGL Ester (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.); Sunsoft A-12C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft A-121C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd;
- Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate: S-Face L-401 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Tego Care PL 4 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH);
- Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate: Dermofeel G 5 L (Dr. Straetmans); Sunsoft A-12E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate: Nikkol Hexaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); S-Face L-601 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate: Dermofeel G 10 L (Dr. Straetmans); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); Nikkol Decaglyn 1-LV EX (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); S-Face L-1001 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft M-12J (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); Sunsoft Q-12S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.).

Mention may in particular be made of Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate.

As ester of glycerol and fatty acid, mention may also be made of mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture , marketed under the name Arlacel 165 ^® by the company Croda, or the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, marketed under the name Tegin ^® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant chosen from glycerol esters is chosen from mono-, di- and/or triesters of glyceryl and fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms, and preferably is glyceryl stearate.

The surfactant(s) chosen from glycerol esters may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional surfactant

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional surfactant.

The additional surfactants can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document “ Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology , KIRK-OTHMER ”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) or one of its stereoisomers:

in which :
- Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group, in particular a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
- j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and
- l represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (A), l represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.

Preferably, in formula (A), Y' represents -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2, and l = 10.

As examples of geminal surfactants of formula (A), mention may be made of sodium lysine dilauramidoglutamide, sodium lysine dimyristoylglutamide and sodium lysine distearoylglutamide.

Preferably, the geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) is sodium lysine dilauramidoglutamide.

Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is sold in particular by Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB-10.

The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) described in particular in application WO 2004/020394.

The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (A) may be present in the composition in an amount of active ingredient ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may also additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from mono, di or triesters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. carbon such as stearic acid, in particular sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one hydrophilic surfactant chosen from stearic acid, sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises stearic acid and sucrose tristearate.

The hydrophilic surfactant(s) chosen from mono, di or triesters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant, distinct from glycerol esters, and in particular chosen from esters of polyols and fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene units, in particular chosen from polyethylene glycol and C fatty acid esters₈-VS₂₄, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol fatty acid esters C₈-VS₂₄, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; C-fatty acid sugar esters₈-VS₂₄; sugar ethers and C fatty alcohols₈-VS₂₄ ; and their mixtures.

As ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and/or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name : PEG-40 stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof. More particularly, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate).

The hydrophilic surfactant(s) chosen from polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Expenses

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, as filler, at least lauroyl-lysine powder, optionally in combination with boron nitride, or at least solid cellulose beads.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of filler(s) ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2% to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least amino acid powder as filler.

Preferably, the amino acid powder is Lauroyl-lysine powder. Such a filler is in particular marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL- ^11® by the Ajinomoto company or under the name Corum 5105 S by the Corum company.

The amino acid powder, and preferably lauroyl lysine, may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, better still in an amount ranging from 1.5% to 2, 5% by weight, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 1.8% to 2.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises only amino acid powder as filler, and preferably only lauroyl lysine.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises amino acid powder as filler, and preferably lauroyl lysine, in combination with boron nitride.

The boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary size of between 1 and 50 μm, better still between 1 and 30 μm, more preferentially between 1 and 25 μm, and even more preferentially between 1 and 10 μm.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface by the BET method or by means of a laser granulometer.

As commercial boron nitride that can be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, in particular under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

Boron nitride may preferably be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 1% by weight, better still in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least solid cellulose beads as filler.

The solid cellulose beads are spherical cellulose microparticles having a size expressed as volume-average diameter D(4.3) of the particle ranging from 0.1 to 35 μm, preferably from 1 to 20 μm, and more particularly from 8 at 15 µm.

As examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, mention may in particular be made of the solid cellulose beads marketed under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.

Preferably, the solid cellulose beads have a size, expressed as volume-average particle diameter D(4.3), greater than 8 μm, and more preferably ranging from 8 to 15 μm.

The solid cellulose beads may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, better still in an amount ranging from 1.5% to 3.5% by weight, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 1.8% to 3.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention can also comprise additional fillers, in particular organic fillers and/or inorganic fillers.

In the present application, the term “organic filler” means any organic solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25° C.). The term "organic" means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.

As organic fillers capable of being used in the anhydrous composite material of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide (nylon ^® ) particles, polyethylene powders, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, polymethacrylate microspheres powders, ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, powders of natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, silicone resin microbeads, wax microdispersion particles, and mixtures thereof .

In the present application, the term “inorganic filler” means any inorganic solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25° C.). “Inorganic” means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom.

As inorganic fillers, mention may be made of porous spherical silica particles, porous silica microbeads, zeolites, calcium magnesium carbonate, lamellar inorganic particles such as talcs, micas, nacres, or even pearlite particles. , in particular the expanded perlite particles.

Additional assets

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active ingredients, and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active ingredients, distinct from acid ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

The additional asset(s) may in particular be chosen from:
- vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate),
- humectants such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, and xylitylgiucoside, and in particular glycerol;
- C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol;
- antioxidant compounds;
- anti-ageing active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentylacetic acid sodium salt; And
- their mixtures.

In particular, the additional cosmetic active may be at least one hydrophilic active.

The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-ageing agents, matting agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

C-glycoside compounds

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular of the following general formula:

in which :
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, in particular C ₁ -C ₂ , in particular methyl;
- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds:
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside- 2-hydroxy-propane.

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above suitable for the invention may preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, whose INCI name is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, in particular marketed under the name Mexoryl ^SBB® or Mexoryl ^SCN® by Chimex.

The salts of the C-glycosides suitable for the invention can comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphonic acid groups. They can be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or even aromatic acids. These acids may additionally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

The C-glycosides of formula illustrated above are known from document WO 02/051828.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 14% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.05 % to 12% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly ranging from 1% to 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compounds of ' salicylic acid

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

in which :
- the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more conjugatable double bonds; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in the free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R' is a hydroxyl group;
as well as their salts resulting from a mineral or organic base.

In particular, the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains possibly being substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in the free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

Mention may be made in particular of the compounds in which the radical R is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Among the salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made in particular of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

The salicylic acid compound may in particular be chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and for example is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds of formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base. By way of example of a mineral base, mention may be made of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly advantageous.

The compounds of formula illustrated above which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, EP-A-570,230.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one salicylic acid compound in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0 .1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic acid

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence via the alternating glycosidic bonds β(1,4) and β(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13000000 daltons. This molecular weight largely depends on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the methods of preparation.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, in the context of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in peri-cellular gels, in the basic substance of the connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid articular, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli process.

Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range mentioned above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use fractions of hyaluronic acid which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

By way of illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system”, R. Stern et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid based on its molecular weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50000 and 5000000, in particular between 100000 and 5000000, in particular between 400000 and 5000000 Da . In this case, we are talking about high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which can also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, we speak of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

Alternatively again, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is devoid of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 10 ⁶ ), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present as spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by the company BASF under the name Sphere d'Acide Hyaluronique. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely MW 1.5 x 10 ⁶ , 400000 and 600000 Da.

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3%, and more particularly ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the additional active ingredient(s) is (are) chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one humectant, preferably glycerin; a C-glycoside compound, preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol; and a hyaluronic acid compound, including sodium hyaluronate.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 15% by weight of additional active ingredient(s), and preferably from 8% to 12% by weight of additional active ingredient(s), by relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that these contents do not include the possible presence of glycerol.

Indeed, as indicated above, a composition according to the invention may also comprise from 3% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 6% to 17% by weight. of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetics field, such as preservatives, for example hydroxyacetone, perfumes, dyestuffs, polar additives, film-forming polymers , pH adjusters (acids or bases), for example citric acid, tartaric acid or oxalic acid, chelating agents, cosmetic active agents such as for example healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and / or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition considered.

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, that is to say it comprises less than 0.01 % by weight, or even is devoid of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular devoid of silicone compound and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and/or parabens, and preferably devoid of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and parabens.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one chelating agent, and preferably at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.

Composition

As stated above, a composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and/or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin.

It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say one that has a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness , redness, likely to distract the user from applying this composition.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetics field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.

For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may in particular take the form of an aqueous or oily solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or else microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of the ionic and/or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7, or even from 4 to 6.5.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one pH-adjusting compound, for example sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide.

A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

Dial destination

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, facial preference.

These compositions can constitute cleaning, protection, treatment or care creams for the face, for the hands, or for the body, for example day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, creams lotions, fluid foundations, protective or caring body milks, sun milks, lotions, cure ampoules.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a care and/or sun protection product for the face and/or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, milks, lotions, creams more or less unctuous, gel-creams.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the body or the face, preferably the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined previously.

Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined above. above.

In particular, a composition according to the invention can be implemented with the aim of combating the signs of skin ageing.

Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin ageing.

The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression " comprising a " must be understood as being synonymous with " comprising at least one ", unless the contrary is specified.

The expressions “ between … and … ”, “ comprises of … to … ”, “ formed from … to … ”, and “ ranging from … to … ” must be understood as limits included, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by weight.

Methods of measurement and evaluation

centrifugation

The stability of the compositions is evaluated by passing the compositions obtained through a centrifuge, of the Thermo Scientific type, at T=24 hours, according to the following protocol: 3500 rpm for 1 hour. The observation of a phase shift, release or change in appearance is checked.

Stability measurement

The stability of the compositions is evaluated at different times and under the following conditions: at T=24 hours at ambient temperature (25° C.). It can also be evaluated by placing the compositions obtained for 15 days at 55°C, and at T=1 month and T=2 months, at 4°C, at room temperature (25°C), at 37°C and at 45°C. The observation of a phase shift, release or change in appearance is checked.

Measurement of the viscosity

The viscosity of formulas can be measured using a Rheomat RM 200 type rheometer from Lamy Rheology with spindle 4 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The values are recorded at T = 30 seconds, at T = 10 minutes, and at T = 24 hours.

Evaluation of soaping

To evaluate the phenomenon of soaping, a classification is established with soaping or no soaping.

50 μL of product to be evaluated are taken using an M50 micropipette adjusted to deliver 50 μL (marked 500 on the pipette). The product is applied to half of the back of the hand, and rubbed very quickly for 5 seconds using the index and middle fingers.

The soaping leads to the formation of a fine foam during the massage, during the application of the cream / white film on application.

The "soaping" is then assessed visually during this energetic massage by the presence of whitening on the back of the hand.

For the rating, "1" means there is soaping and "0" means there is no soaping.

Evaluation of the tights

The stickiness of the deposits made with the formulas is evaluated according to the following protocol: each of the compositions is applied to the skin so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness.

The stickiness is assessed by the subject immediately after application of the product and when the formula dries after 2 minutes at room temperature (25°C). The stickiness of a product is an assessment of the grip on the back of the hand.

In particular, for the immediate evaluation after application, the stickiness of the product is evaluated by touch. This criterion is assessed by affixing and detaching the back of the hand from the cheek that received the product, twice maximum. This evaluation is carried out after the fresh gesture, speed of penetration and fingers remain greasy, which corresponds to 15 seconds after application to the face.

For the evaluation 2 minutes after application, the sticky effect of the product is evaluated by touch. This criterion is also evaluated by affixing and detaching the back of the hand from the cheek that received the product.

The stickiness scale ranges from 1 to 5. Non-sticky bare skin is rated “1” and very sticky skin is rated “5”.

It is considered that the score for a conforming composition ranges from 1 to 3.75, and that for a score ranging from 3.75 to 5, the composition is non-compliant.

Rating of softness

Softness is assessed during and after application of the product to the hand.

50 µL of product are applied and circles are made on the back of the hand. The gesture performed must be the same and the passage of the fingers on the top of the hand must slide and not slow down. At the end of application, the skin should remain soft without sticking.

The softness scale goes from 1 to 5. Bare skin is rated “3”.

It is considered that the score for a conforming composition ranges from 3 to 5, and that for a score ranging from 1 to 3, the composition is non-compliant.

Example 1: Compositions 1 to 4 according to the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 1 to 4 according to the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition preparation protocol

The compositions are prepared with a Maxilab from Olsa, equipped with an external and internal blade and an emulsifier.

The compounds of phase A are weighed in the main tank, cold. The compounds are dispersed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained (emulsifier at 300 rpm, outer paddle at 70 rpm and inner paddle at 100 rpm). Under agitation, the raw materials of phase B are aspirated.

The mixture is dispersed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained without clusters and without grains (emulsifier at 1200 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 250 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes).

At the same time, phase C is prepared in a beaker, heated to 70-75°C with stirring using a magnetic bar until a clear and colorless phase is obtained. With stirring, phase C is aspirated slowly and regularly (emulsifier at 2800 rpm, outer paddle at 120 rpm and inner paddle at 250 rpm for 10 minutes). The mixture is dispersed until a consistent emulsion is obtained.

After homogenization, the mixture is cooled to between 15 and 20°C.

The compounds of phase D are mixed beforehand and added to the manufacturing tank (emulsifier at 1800 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

Phase F is prepared beforehand with stirring with a magnetic bar, and aspirated with stirring (emulsifier at 1800 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

At the end of manufacture, phase E is added (emulsifier at 1800 rpm, outer paddle at 100 rpm and inner paddle at 120 rpm for 10 minutes).

Example 2: Compositions 5 and 6 according to the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 5 and 6 according to the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 3: Compositions 7 to 9 according to the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 7 to 9 according to the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 4: Compositions 10 To 13 according to ' invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 10 to 13 according to the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in example 1. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 5: Compositions 14 and 15 outside the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 14 and 15 outside the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in the Example 1. Comparative composition 14 does not comprise a surfactant chosen from glycerol esters, nor a filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads. Comparative composition 15 does not include a filler selected from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 6: Compositions 16 and 17 outside the invention

The anti-ageing care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 16 and 17 outside the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in the Example 1. Comparative compositions 16 and 17 comprise isopropyl myristate or Undecane (and) Tridecane instead of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from esters of isononanoic acid, synthetic ethers having 10 with 40 carbon atoms and/or carbonates. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 7: Compositions 18 to 21 outside the invention

The anti-aging care compositions for the face, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, 18 to 21 outside the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, as indicated in the Example 1. Comparative compositions 18 to 21 comprise boron nitride or silica in place of the filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads. The values are expressed in percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 8: Results

All of the compositions were tested in terms of stability and sensoriality, according to the methods described in the paragraph “Methods of measurement and evaluation” above.

The results are detailed below.

Compositions 1 to 13 according to the invention and 15 to 21 outside the invention are stable.

Composition 14 outside the invention, comprising neither surfactant chosen from glycerol esters, nor filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads, is not stable. Lumps appear after storage for 2 months at 45°C. In addition, it becomes brown and shows a significant loss of viscosity. In addition, composition 14 outside the invention soaps a lot.

Compositions 1 to 13 according to the invention do not soap and have better sensoriality than compositions 14 to 21 outside the invention. They are soft and smooth.

They shine and stick much less than compositions 14 to 21 outside the invention.

In addition, they have a much softer and lighter finish than compositions 14 to 21 outside the invention.

Claims (20)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least 1.5% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight composition;
- at least one fatty phase comprising at least (i) one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, (ii) one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from fatty amides, and (iii) one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from esters of isononanoic acid, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms and/or carbonates;
- at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters;
- at least one filler chosen from amino acid powders and solid cellulose beads; And
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, the aqueous phase being gelled with at least 1.8% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, in particular at least 1.9% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and preferably at least 2% by weight of a mixture of a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid and of a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the crosslinked homopolymer of acrylic acid being an at least partially neutralized homopolymer of acrylic acid, and preferably being at least one sodium polyacrylate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the oil (i) being chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from C ₈ -C ₁₆ iso-alkanes, and preferably being isododecane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the oil (ii) being lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the oil (iii) being chosen from isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether and/or dicaprylyl carbonate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from non-volatile alkanes, and preferably at least one mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, devoid of fatty alcohol wax, and preferably devoid of cetyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the surfactant chosen from glycerol esters being chosen from mono-, di- and/or triester of glyceryl and fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and preferably being stearate of glyceryl. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) or one of its stereoisomers:

in which :
- Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group,
- j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and
- l represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, the geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) being chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and preferably being sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 18% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as filler, at least lauroyl-lysine powder, optionally in combination with boron nitride, or at least solid cellulose beads. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of filler(s) ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2% to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the content of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active ingredients, and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active ingredients, distinct from ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional active agent(s) is (are) chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, devoid of silicone compound and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and/or parabens, and preferably devoid of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and parabens. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.