FR2948872A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXYALKYLENE DERIVATIVE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to a composition for topical application comprising a thickening agent and a particular oxyalkylene derivative.

Description

The present application relates to a composition comprising a thickening agent and an oxyalkylenated derivative.

For various reasons related in particular to a better comfort of use (softness, emollience and others), the current cosmetic compositions comprise an aqueous phase and one or more oils, and are for example in the form of an emulsion of the oil type. in-water (O / W) consisting of an aqueous dispersant continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase with surfactant.

These compositions are particularly sought after in cosmetics because they comprise, as external phase, an aqueous phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a cooler, less greasy and lighter feel than emulsions. H.

To thicken these compositions and give them the desired viscosity, thickeners or gelling agents are used. However, the introduction of gelling agents (in particular of AMPS-based polymers) can lead, during the application to the skin and after evaporation of the volatile compounds of the composition, the formation of solid residues on the skin, also known as fluffing, resulting in discomfort to the skin and an unsightly result. There is therefore a need to produce gelled texture compositions, comprising an aqueous phase and an oil, which have good cosmetic properties, a satisfactory appearance, and do not lint on application to the skin. The Applicant has surprisingly found that the use of a particular oxyethylenated derivative in compositions comprising a gelling or thickening agent makes it possible to meet this need.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase, characterized in that it comprises: at least one thickening agent, at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition at least one oil, and at least one oxyalkylenated derivative of the following formula (I): Z- {O (AO), (EO) n - (BO) nH} a (I) wherein Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups of a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups; AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms EO represents an oxyethylene group; B represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms, ranging from 3 to 9; I, m, and n respectively represent the average number of moles of AO, EOandBO, and 151550, 15m550 and 0.55n55 units; the ratio by weight of AO over EO (AO / EO) ranging from 1/5 to 5/1.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, ie an external application on keratinous substances, which are in particular the skin, the scalp, the nails, the mucous membranes and the keratinous fibers such as the eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention has the advantage of having good safety and good cosmetic properties, that is to say a homogeneous texture that is pleasant to the application, with a limited linting phenomenon. In addition, the oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) defined above makes it possible to improve the hydration properties of the skin.

The composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel and may have a viscosity ranging from 130 mPa.s to 18.9 Pa.s, preferably from 328 mPa.s to 14.2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C., the viscosity being measured using a Rheomat 180 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a speed of rotation of 200 t.min-1.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as described above is applied to the keratin materials.

According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) as defined above in a composition comprising at least 3% of at least one oil and at least one gelling agent, to reduce and / or limit the linting phenomena of said composition to the application on the skin.

Gelling agent

The total dry matter content of gelling agent (s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the total dry matter content of the gelling agent (s) of the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.4% by weight, and better than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The gelling agent (or thickener) can be chosen in particular from:

1) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, and their salts such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941 and 934 P may be cited in particular. These polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity of solids ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. 2) acrylate-based copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one C3-C6 monoolefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer or its anhydride, and at least one fatty acid ester monomer of acrylic acid. These copolymers may be optionally crosslinked.

The preferred carboxylic monomers are chosen from those corresponding to the formula: ## STR2 ## in which R denotes hydrogen, halogen, hydroxyl, a lactone group, a lactam group, a cyanogen group (-ON), a monovalent alkyl group, a aryl group, alkylaryl group, aralkyl group or cycloaliphatic group. Particularly preferred carboxylic monomers are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof. The fatty-chain acrylic ester monomers are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the formula: ## STR2 ## in which R 'is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, methyl and ethyl and R 2 is a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, a C 8 -C 30 oxyalkylene group, a C 8 -C 30 carbonyloxyalkylene group. Particularly preferred ester monomers are those for which R 'is hydrogen or methyl, and / or those for which R 2 is a C 10 -C 22 alkyl group. There may be mentioned acrylates and methacrylates of decyl, lauryl, stearyl, behenyl or melissyl. Some of these copolymers are in particular described in the application EP-A-0268164 and are obtained according to the methods of preparation described in this same document. Mention may be made more particularly of polymers comprising a monomer of decyl, lauryl, stearyl, behenyl or melissyl acrylates or methacrylates, more particularly stearyl acrylates and methacrylates, and in particular the copolymers sold under the names PEMULEN or CARBOPOL by the Noveon Company, such as the acrylate / C, o-C3o-alkylacrylate copolymer such as the products PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2 or CARBOPOL 1382 (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). 3) The polyacrylate salts These are in particular crosslinked and neutralized polymers, in non-particulate form. Sodium salts are preferably used.

Mention may be made, for example, of polymers bearing the INCI sodium polyacrylate name, for example: Cosmedia SP or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% of dry matter and 10% of water, Cosmedia SPL or sodium polyacrylate in inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active ingredient, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis, the partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates being in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel EM sold by the company BASF.

The polyacrylate salts may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

4) polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, chosen from: a) poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymers, in particular homopolymers , polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%. They are generally characterized by the fact that they comprise, distributed randomly: i) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of the following general formula (1): C 1 CH 2 SO 3 X + (1) O NH CH 3 in which X + denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, at most 10 mol% of the X + cations which may be H + protons; and ii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer. This polymer preferably comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units. The X + cation represents a cation or a mixture of cations selected in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion. The preferred X + cation is the NH 4 cation. More particularly, 90 to 100 mol% of the cations are NH 4 + cations and 0 to 10 mol% are protons (H +). The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen from, for example, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol-CH320 diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetralyl oxethanoyl or other allyl. or vinylether polyfunctional alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallylether, methylenbisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.

The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (2): ## STR1 ## in which R denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical and more particularly the methyl radical (trimethylol propane triacrylate). As polymers of this type, mention may in particular be made of crosslinked homopolymer and

Neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide). b) copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS

These copolymers may in particular be crosslinked with an olefinic polyunsaturated compound such as those selected from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allypentaerythritol, methylenebisacrylamide, allylsucrose and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylene bis is used.

Acrylamide, partially or completely neutralized with a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine.

Preferably, said olefinic polyunsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of 0.06 to 1 millimole per mole of the monomer mixture.

The preferred copolymers are obtained by radical copolymerization of 15-85 mol% of acrylamide and 15-85 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, especially 30-70 mol%. of acrylamide and 30-70 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, and more preferably 55-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-45 mol% of 2-acrylamido acid 2 methyl propane sulfonic acid

On the other hand, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid may be generally at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. The gelling agent that can be used can also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. A crosslinked copolymer which is particularly preferred in the context of the practice of the present invention is especially available under the name Sepigel 305 sold by Seppic (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7); mention may also be made of the product Simulgel 600 (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by Seppic.

c) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group comprising i) from 80 to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido acid unit 2 methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) of the following formula (3): wherein X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion; it being understood that when X represents an alkaline earth metal cation, it shares 2 positive charges with 2 SO 3 groups; and ii) from 1 to 20 mol%, and preferably from 1 to 15 mol% of CH 2 SiC (3a) O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) - (CH 2 CH (CH 3) O) -R 3 np formula (3a) ) in which n and p, independently of one another, denote a number of moles and ranges from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20 with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and even more preferably less than 20; R denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl) and R3 denotes a linear or branched alkyl group containing m carbon atoms ranging from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 25; carbon atoms.

These polymers are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral base such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, or by

an organic base such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinic polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene and ether.

diallyl, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series , or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as the allylic esters of the phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or the mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

As polymers derived from AMPS that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium, with an ester of (meth) acrylic acid and an oxyethylenated C10-C20 alcohol comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups. Mention may in particular be made of polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts with a (meth) acid ester. acrylic and: - a C, o-C 18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol C-080 from Clariant), - an oxo alcohol C 8 oxyethylenated by 8 moles of oxide ethylene (Genapol UD-080 from Clariant), - an oxo alcohol C 2 oxyethylenated with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol UD-070 from Clariant), - a C12 alcohol -C14 oxyethylenated with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol LA-070 from Clariant), - a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 9 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol LA-090 of the company) Clariant), - a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol LA-110 from Clariant), - a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 moles of oxide of ethylene (Genapol T- 080 from Clariant), - a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-110 from Clariant), - a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated by 15 moles ethylene oxide (Genapol T-150 from Clariant), - a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-200 from Clariant), a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-250 from Clariant), - a C18-C22 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide, an alcohol iso-C16-C, oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide. According to one embodiment, the AMPS-derived polymer is a copolymer of AMPS and C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate having from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a sodium salt thereof. methacrylic acid and a C 16 -C 18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. The amphiphilic polymer may also be a copolymer of AMPS and C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate having from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and an alcohol C12-C14 oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. There may be mentioned in particular: the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from 92.65 mol% of AMPS and 7.35 mol% of C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate containing 8 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol T-080); ), such as that marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex SNC - the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from 91.5 mol% of AMPS and 8.5 mol% of C 12 alcohol methacrylate. C14 comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol LA-070), such as that marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex LNC and mixtures thereof.

As crosslinked AMPS polymers of this type, mention may be made more particularly of the product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX HMS by the company Clariant, which is a crosslinked ethoxylated stearic acid amoxy / methacrylate copolymer (25 EO) or that marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX. HMB by Clariant, which is a cross-linked ethoxylated (25 OE), amphenyl methacrylate / AMPS copolymer. A mixture of these polymers can also be used.

The polymers and copolymers of AMPS may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. 5) Heterogeneous Polysaccharides By "heterogeneous polyholoside" is meant according to the present invention polymers consisting of the combination of different monosaccharides or monosaccharides having the same crude chemical formula but of different geometrical configuration (D and L isomers by example).

These polymers are distinguished both polyheterosides, which consist of one or more monosaccharides and a non-carbohydrate moiety, and homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the association of the same monosaccharide. Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention consists solely of monosaccharides and results from the combination of at least two different monosaccharides.

The polyholosides according to the invention may consist of 2 to 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly known as oligoholosides, or of more than 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly known as polyholosides. The monosaccharides present in the polyholoside according to the invention may be chosen from all the possible oses, of natural or synthetic origin, and in particular such as: the aldoses as. pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiosis, for example, hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example, ketoses such as fructose, deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose, derivatives of oses such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids, or itols such as mannitol or sorbitol. The polyholoside according to the invention may be branched or linear. It may also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, in particular comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms. On the other hand, the polyholoside according to the invention may be an alginate (poly mannuronate and guluronate) such as sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, calcium alginate, or glyceryl alginate. However, the heterogeneous polyholoside preferably comprises at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, based on the weight of polyholoside solids. In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example may comprise a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid. In this case, it preferably has a viscosity of 800-1200 mPa.s (Brookfield viscosity LV31, 12 rpm, at 30 ° C) when it is dissolved in water at a concentration of about 1 % in weight. Such a polyholoside is especially available in the form of a 1% solution in water from Solabia under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP. The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of polyholoside. The polyholosides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6) Glyceryl acrylate polymers These glyceryl acrylate polymers are especially chosen from copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid. Such copolymers are sold, for example, under the names LUBRAJEL MS, LUBRAJEL CG, LUBRAJEL DV, LUBRAJEL NP, LUBRAJE L 011, LUBRAJEL Oil BG, LUBRAJEL PF, LUBRAJEL TW, LUBRAJEL WA by Guardian Laboratories. LUBRAJEL MS is preferably used. The glyceryl acrylate polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7) polysaccharides such as: algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. As examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30 and UTC10 from Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol by the company ISP;

gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum carob; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; - Modified or unmodified starches, such as those resulting, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as sweet pea, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR 1 rice starch marketed by Remy; cornstarch B from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide marketed under the name Structure Solanace by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure by the company National Starch; dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index of the company National Starch;

celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS and Natrosol Plus 330 from Aqualon; - and their mixtures.

The polysaccharides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of solids ranging from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Gums such as xanthan gum are preferably used. 8) modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX bentonite gel VS38), hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by Rheox. The clays may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of the various gelling agents mentioned above.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from: the polymers derived and copolymers of AMPS, in particular the copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in particular the crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, as described above, the acrylate-based copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one C3-C6 monoolefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer or its anhydride, and at least one monomer fatty chain ester of acrylic acid, as described above, and optionally crosslinked, and in particular acrylate / C, o-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least first gelling agent chosen from copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, as described above, and at least ins a second gelling agent distinct from the copolymer of acrylamide and AMPS, for example selected from polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum.

Oxalkylenated Compound The oxyalkylenated derivative used in the present invention has the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein Z represents a radical obtained by removal of one or more hydroxyl groups a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups; AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms EO represents an oxyethylene group; B represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms, avade3à9; I, m, and n are the average number of moles of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 50, 150 and 505; the ratio by weight of AO over EO (AO / EO) ranging from 1/5 to 5/1. In the composition according to the invention, it is possible to use an oxyalkylenated derivative or a mixture of identical or different oxyalkylenated derivatives.

In the oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I), Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups of a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a represents the number of hydroxyl groups of the derivative and ranges from 3 9. As compounds comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, there may be mentioned, for example, in the case where a = 3: glycerin, trimethylolpropane; in the case where a = 4: erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, alkylglycosides, diglycerin; in the case where a = 5: xylitol; in the case where a = 6: dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol; in the case where a = 8, sucrose, trehalose; in the case where a = 9, maltitol; or a mixture of said compounds.

Preferably, Z represents a radical obtained by removal of hydroxyl group (s) from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and 3 sams 6. Preferred compounds comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, mention may be made of glycerol or trimethylolpropane, and in particular glycerine. When a is less than or equal to 2, the compatibility between the oxyalkylenated compound and the fatty phase of the composition such as oils and fats is low, and the stability of the mixture in oil-based formulations is affected. When a is greater than or equal to 10, a sticky effect is observed. AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms. AO may for example represent an oxypropylene, oxybutylene (oxy-n-butylene, oxyisobutylene or oxy-t-butylene) group, an oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetramethylene group or a mixture. AO is preferably selected from oxypropylene and / or oxybutylene groups, and more preferably from oxypropylene groups. I represents the average number of moles of AO and 50 units, preferably 25 m, m is the average number of moles of EO units, and 15 m 5 50, preferably 25 m 2. When I is 0, a sticky effect is noted; on the other hand, when I exceeds 50, the moisturizing effect of the compound (I) is reduced. In addition, when m is 0, the moisturizing effect 50 decreases and when m exceeds 50, a sticky effect is observed. The ratio by weight of AO over EO (AO / EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1, and preferably 1/4 to 4/1. When this ratio is less than 1/5, a sticky effect is observed, and when the AO / EO ratio exceeds 5/1, the moisturizing effect decreases. The order of addition of the units AO and EO is not decisive, the units AO and EO can be summed statistically or in block form (blocks). To achieve an improved effect of preventing skin dryness, AO and EO are preferably added statistically. B 1 represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms, and may be, for example, chosen from oxybutylene groups (such as oxy-n-butylene, oxy-isobutylene or oxy-t-butylene groups), oxytetramethylene and their mixtures. Preferably, BO is chosen from oxybutylene groups. n represents the average number of moles of BO units, and 0.5 sn 5 5, preferably 0.8 sn 5 3, and more preferably 1 5 n 5 3. When n is less than 0.5, a sticky effect is observed . When n exceeds 5, the moisturizing effect decreases. In formula (I), the units (BO) n are necessarily linked to the terminal hydrogen atom of the oxyalkylenated derivative.

The oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I) may be prepared by well-known methods, for example by addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms on a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, followed by reaction with an ethylene oxide comprising 4 carbon atoms. During the addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms on a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, the groups ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide can be polymerized statistically or in block form. Among the oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I), mention may be made in particular of the oxyalkylenated derivative (polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol) represented by the following formula (II): ## STR2 ##

wherein: Gly represents a radical obtained by removal of hydroxyl groups from glycerin; PO represents an oxypropylene group; BO represents an oxyethylene group; s and t respectively represent the average number of moles of units PO and BO have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the weight ratio of PO units to BO (PO / EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1; B represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms; and u represents the average number of moles of BO units, and ranges from 0.5 to 5. The oxyalkylene derivative of formula (II) above can be obtained by addition polymerization of propylene oxide and oxide. ethylene to glycerin, in a ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each propylene oxide and ethylene oxide relative to glycerine, followed by the addition of alkylene oxide comprising 4 carbon atoms in a ratio of 1.5 to 15 molar equivalents to glycerine. The reaction of adding said alkylene oxide to the glycerin may be in the presence of an alkaline catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or an equivalent. In general, an alkaline catalyst is used, preferably potassium hydroxide. Among the oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I) or (II), the derivatives obtained by adding 6 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 moles of propylene oxide to glycerin are preferred, followed by the addition of 2 to 4 moles of butylene oxide. As preferred oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) or (II), mention may be made of polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, which is obtained by addition reaction of 8 moles of ethylene oxide and 5 moles of propylene oxide. on the glycerin, then adding 3 moles of butylene oxide, whose INCI name is PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin. PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is commercially available as WILBRIDE S-753 from NOF Corporation.

The oxyalkylenated derivative (s) of formula (I) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight. weight and better from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

emulsifiers

In order to facilitate the emulsification of the oily phase, the composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more surfactants (distinct from the gelling polymer and distinct from the oxyalkylenated derivative). The surfactants may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.

The amount (of active material) of surfactants can range, for example, from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use mixtures of these surfactants, for example the product containing Glyceryl stearate and the PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by Croda, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate). ) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE). As the fatty acid ester of glucose or of alkylglucose, there may be mentioned in particular glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially methylglucoside and oleic acid diester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate); mixed methylglucoside ester and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); methylglucoside ester and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate); methylglucoside and lauric acid ester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof. Oxygenated ethers of fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose include, for example, oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ether of methyl glucose diester and stearic acid. about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid to about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under designation Glucamate SSE-20 by the company Amerchol and that sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof. Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned are sucrose palmito stearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose mono-laurate.

As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol ethers. cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohols (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). For example, ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned. As sugar ethers, there may be mentioned in particular alkylpolyglucosides, and for example decylglucoside such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product marketed under the name the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by the company Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel; coco-glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic and their mixtures.

We can also mention:

Alkoxylated alkenyl succinates such as, for example, those described in document EP1025898. the phosphoric alkyl esters, such as, for example, those described in document EP1013338. Citrated alkyl ethers, for example those described in EP1020219. Lipoamino acids and their salts, such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates, for example mono-sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11PF) and disodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-21 P) sold by the company Ajinomoto. the alkyl phosphates and their salts, such as the alkaline salts of dicetyl and dimyristyl phosphate, or potassium cetyl phosphate, such as Amphisol K sold by the company DSM Nutritional Products. - Cholesterol derivatives such as alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate, alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate. - Ammonium salts of phosphatidic acid. Phospholipids.

Alkyl sulphonic derivatives as described in patent document EP1120101. Geminated surfactants such as, in particular, the surfactant of the following formula (I): N / R2 1 Y 0 (I)

wherein: R 1 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group ## STR2 ## ) (OM) 2, ùC2H4-SO3M, ùC3H6-SO3M or ùCH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'represent H or an alkaline or alkaline earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, • avade0 to 15, 20 • bvade0 to 10, and • the sum of a + b is from 1 to 25, and nvade1 to 10. Preferably each of R, -CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (predominantly lauric acid and acid). myristic). More preferably, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group SO 3 M or M is preferably an alkaline ion. such as a sodium ion. The spacer R2 is advantageously constituted of a linear alkylene chain of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and preferably of an ethylene chain. Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure:

## EQU1 ## where n has an average value of 15 and R represents a coconut fatty acid residue. This surfactant is commercially available from SASOL, in the form of a mixture with other surfactants and optionally coemulsifiers, under the trade names Ceralution C, Cerealution F and Ceralution H. This gemini surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures.

For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added. Advantageously, the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters. As alkylated esters of polyol, mention may in particular be made of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a so-called solubilizing compound generally chosen from oxyalkylenated derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil; mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil (40%) marketed in a mixture with butyl alcohol oxyethylenated (26%) oxypropylene (26%) in water under the reference SOLUBILISANT LRI by LCW or oil hydrogenated castor oil polyoxyl 40 marketed under the name Cremophore RH 40. Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least water. According to the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 98% by weight, better still from 30 to 95% by weight, and even better from 40 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the aqueous phase may represent from 50 to 98% by weight, preferably from 55 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol. ; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The water-miscible compound (s), such as polyols and lower alcohols, may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 30% and better still amount ranging from 1 to 20%.

30 Oils

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil, preferably at least 5% by weight, better still at least 7% by weight and even better at least 10% by weight of oils. The total amount of oils may range from 3% to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight and most preferably from 5% to 25% by weight.

The oil may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils or oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. These oils are physiologically acceptable. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

By nonvolatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn and soybean oils; , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate or 2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

The oil is part of the oily phase of the composition according to the invention. The oily phase may further comprise any usual liposoluble or lipodispersible additive as indicated below. It can include other fatty substances such as waxes, pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids. In particular, the oily phase may comprise at least one silicone gum such as, for example, an alpha-omega hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, such as the PDMS mixture containing alpha omega hydroxyl groups / PDMS cst (12/88) sold under the name DC 1503 by The amount of oily phase may range for example from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the present invention, the amounts of oily phase and aqueous phase indicated do not include the amount of oxyalkylene derivative, thickener and surfactant that can be used according to the invention.

Additives In known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field. Adjuvants that may be mentioned include actives, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, salts, fillers, sunscreens (= UV filters), dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide). sodium) or acids (citric acid), and also lipid vesicles or any other type of vector (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property for the composition of the invention.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures. As organic spherical powders, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular nylon powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide 12, sold under the names Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; hollow hemispherical silicone particles such as, for example, NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from TAKEMOTO OIL AND FAT; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch, perlite, and their mixtures. As fibers, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) fibers (INCI name nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) (INCI name: nylon 66). or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes; flavonoids; tensing agents such as synthetic polymers, vegetable proteins, polysaccharides of plant origin in form or not of microgels, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; ceramides; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; mattifying agents; anti-hair loss agents and / or hair regrowth; anti-wrinkle agents; essential oils ; and their mixtures; and any suitable asset for the ultimate purpose of the composition.

U.V. filters can be organic or inorganic (or physical U.V. filters). They may be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

Examples of organic screening agents active in the UV-A and / or UV-B which may be added in the composition of the invention include, for example, anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; [3, [3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649.

The total amount of organic UV filters in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition.

As physical filters which may be added in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium, zinc or cerium. , and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W). or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (W / O / W or H / E / H), of microemulsions , ionic and / or nonionic type vesicular dispersions, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion and in particular an O / W emulsion.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the usual methods for preparing the O / W emulsion. The compositions, objects of the invention, are intended for topical application and may constitute in particular a dermatological or cosmetic composition, for example intended for the treatment (anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, hydration, sun protection, etc.), the treatment, cleaning and makeup keratin materials and in particular the skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, hair and nails of human beings.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition constitutes a cosmetic composition and is intended for topical application to the skin.

The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in% by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES Example 1 The following emulsion is prepared: Phase A Adenosine 0.04% glycerin EDTA 0.2% Preservatives qs Citric acid 0.03 Water gsp100% Phase B Stearic acid 1% Mono / glyceryl disterate mixture / 0, 5% polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE) (Croda Arlacel 165 FL) 1,2-octanediol 0.2 Cetyl alcohol 0.4% Pentaerythrityl pentaerythrityl 3% Dicaprylate propylene glycol caprate / 2 Hectorite modified stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium / propylene carbonate (88/9/3) (MIGLYOL 840 GEL B from Sasol) Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 4% Camellia oil 2% Coriander oil blend, 2% macadamia, jojoba, passiflora and coconut oil apricot Phenyltrimethylsiloxane 20 cSt, MW = 372 1 (DC 556 Dow Corning Fluid) Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate 1% Phase C Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt (DC 200 0.4 Dow Corning Fluid) Polydimethylsiloxane mixture alpha-2 omega dihydoxylated and polydimethylsiloxane 5cSt (12/88) (DC1503 Fluid from Dow Corning) e xanthane 0.15 Phase D Copolymer acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-1,7% 2-methylpropane sulfonate in 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80/1-C13 (Simulgel 600 from Seppic) Polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene 1,5 polyoxypropylene glycerol ( WILBRIDE S-753 from NOF Corporation) Water 10% Phase E 0.1% magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate with 27% water L-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid 0.1% Rice peptides 0.1% Water 5% Operating mode:

On the one hand, the ingredients of phase A and on the other hand those of phase B are mixed and each mixture is heated at 50-75 ° C. until homogeneous mixtures are obtained. Phase A is then added to phase B with stirring for 15 minutes, then cooled to 40 ° C., phases C, D and E are added with stirring and the mixture is allowed to return to ambient temperature. This composition has a viscosity, measured according to the method indicated above, of 608 mPa.s.

Examples 2 and 3:

The following emulsions are prepared: Emulsion 2 Emulsion 3 (according to (comparative) the invention) Acrylamide / acrylamido-2-0.3% 0.3% sodium methylpropanesulphonate copolymer in 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80/1 -C13 (Simulgel 600 Seppic) Poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid 1% 1% crosslinked and partially neutralized with ammonia to 97.4% active ingredients in alcohol mixture. (Hostacerin AMPS Clariant) Crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP 1% 1% Cognis) Sodium polyacrylate crosslinked, partially 1% 1% neutralized 26% inverse emulsion with triglycerides C8 / C10 (Luvigel EM from BASF) Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane alpha-omega 2% 2% dihydoxylated and polydimethylsiloxane 5cSt (12/88) (DC1503 Fluid from Dow Corning) Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8 cSt (DC 246 Fluid of 3 3 Dow Corning) Triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids 4% 4% Mixture Cetostearyl 2-ethyl hexanoate / 1% 1% isopropyl myristate N-lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate 2% 2% Pentaerythrityl pentaerythrityl 2% 2% Stearyl alcohol mixture / cetylstearyl alcohol 0.8% 0.8% oxyethylenated (30%) 0E) (Sasol Polyoxybutylene Soxy 2% Polyoxypropylene Glycerol SINNOWAX A0 (NOF Corporation WILBRIDE S-753) 1,2-octane diol 0.3% 0.3% Glycerin 7% 7% Assets 4.3 4.3 Preservatives qs qs Ethanol 3% 3% Water Qs 100 Qs 100 The composition of Example 2 presents a viscosity, measured according to the method indicated above (Mobile 3), of 2.07 Pa.s.

Each emulsion was evaluated by a panel of 6 experts according to the following protocol: We weigh 0.2 g of the composition to be tested and then apply the composition with the hand on the top of the other hand by making 20 passages in the form of circle, then visually evaluate the appearance of the skin before adsorption of the cream.

Then allowed to dry for 2 minutes until adsorption of the cream and is carried out with the hand a circular passage on the area until the first phenomenon of fluffing. The composition of Example 3 exhibits a linting phenomenon after 20 circular passages before adsorption on the skin while the composition 2 according to the invention shows no lint at the end of the circular passages.

These examples demonstrate that the presence of an oxyalkylenated derivative according to the invention makes it possible to limit the appearance of the fluffing phenomenon of the composition after application to the skin.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase, characterized in that it comprises: at least one thickening agent, at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil, and at least one oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) below: Z- {O (AO) I (EO) m (BO) nH} a (I) in which Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups d a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups; AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms EO represents an oxyethylene group; B represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms, ranging from 3 to 9; I, m, and n respectively represent the average number of moles of units AO, EOandBO, andlsls50, 15ms50and0.55n55; the ratio by weight of AO over EO (AO / EO) ranging from 1/5 to 5/1. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oxyethylenated derivative is chosen from the following compounds of formula (II): Gly- [O (PO), (EO) t- (BO) äH] 3 (II) in which: Gly represents a radical obtained by removal of hydroxyl groups from glycerine; PO represents an oxypropylene group; E0 represents an oxyethylene group; s and t respectively represent the average number of moles of PO units and have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the ratio by weight of PO units over EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1; B represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms; and u represents the average number of moles of BO units, and ranges from 0.5 to 5. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated derivative is chosen from polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol (INCI name PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin). 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated derivative is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 to at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from: 1) homopolymers of acrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, and their salts, 2) copolymers with acrylate base derived from the polymerization of at least one C3-C6 monoolefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer or its anhydride, and at least one fatty acid ester monomer of acrylic acid; 3) polyacrylate salts; 4) polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, 5) heterogeneous polysaccharides, 6) polymers of glyceryl acrylate, 7) polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from - copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, - copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS), crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymers, in particular homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( AMPS), crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one n thickening agent chosen from copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one first thickening agent chosen from copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in particular crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS. and at least one second thickening agent separate from the acrylamide and AMPS copolymer. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total dry matter content of thickening agent (s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total solids content of thickener (s) is greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.4% by weight. weight, and better still or equal to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a surfactant. 12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants. 5 10 13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the amount (of active material) of surfactants ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and better from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, better still at least 7% by weight and more preferably at least 10% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratin materials.