FR3046066A1 - COMPOSITION BASED ON SPICULISPORIC ACID - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: from 0.1 to 15% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one base chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines in an amount capable of forming at least the monosel of spiculisporic acid, said composition comprising less than 3%, preferably less than 1% by weight of glycol (s) and / or polyol (s) relative to the total weight the composition advantageously being devoid of glycols and / or polyol (s).

Description

The present invention relates to the field of film-forming compositions that can be used in cosmetics, more particularly it relates to emulsions having film-forming properties. Obtaining compositions capable of forming a stable and homogeneous film is a recurring technical problem in many fields and more particularly in cosmetics, for example for applications as creams, deodorants, mascaras, nail polishes, skincare products and / or makeup.

Indeed, many cosmetic products, thanks to this film-forming property, will see their improved properties whether in terms of dispersion of components, touch or barrier effect between the support on which the composition was applied and the external environment. . Generally, in order to obtain this type of composition, conventional film-forming polymers are used, in addition, when obtaining an emulsion is targeted, synthetic film-forming surfactant molecules generally derived from petroleum are preferably used.

However, most of the film-forming synthetic surfactant molecules from petroleum used in various industries are deleterious to the environment.

In addition, synthetic surfactants are certainly good emulsifiers but lead for the most part to the formation of moisture-sensitive and weakly cohesive films.

There is therefore a need for film-forming emulsifying systems, which are respectful of the environment.

In addition, the skin and the human scalp are the first barriers protecting the body from the environment. Each day, they suffer external aggressions, which are responsible for many skin problems, such as accelerated aging, skin conditions, discomfort, or the greasy condition of the skin, etc.

In particular, air pollution, ie the amount of pollutants in the air, raises more and more concerns for consumers because of its negative impact on the skin. Among the different types of pollutants in the air, dust or fine particles such as particles having a diameter of less than 10 μm (PM10), preferably less than 2.5 μm (PM2.5), carbon powders . Gases such as CO, $ 0¾ NO *, have attracted consumer attention, particularly in recent years.

Fine particles in the air tend to adhere to the skin. They are deposited or remain deposited on the skin even after cleaning. This deposit is not desired by the consumer, since it is believed that the pores of the skin can be clogged and thus lead to skin problems. Air pollution is also at the origin of skin aging problems (particularly related to the oxidative stress generated by polluting particles, UV, tobacco ...), dehydrated skin or increased seborrhea (Lefebvre et al. , 2015, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37: 329-338). The state of the art does not disclose solutions to prevent or reduce the deposition of fine particles on the skin and scalp.

There is therefore a strong need for the preparation of compositions having an anti-deposition effect against fine particles. More particularly, there is a need for compositions having beneficial properties of anti-deposition in addition to other properties, such as for example properties of hydration or amelioration of softness, after application to keratin materials, especially on the skin or the scalp. It is furthermore advantageous that such compositions are capable of exhibiting the effects described above for a relatively long time, for example for 6 to 8 hours.

The present inventors have shown that this problem can be solved by using particular salts of sporisporic acid. Spieulisporic acid is an emulsifying biosurfactant derived from a microorganism that is non-toxic to the environment.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase, an aqueous phase characterized in that it comprises: 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably 0.7 to 8%, more preferably 1 to 8% by weight of spieulisporique acid relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one base selected from amino acids and the alkanolamines in an amount capable of forming at least the monosel of spieulisporique acid, said composition comprising less than 3%, preferably less than 1% by weight of glycol (s) and / or polyol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition being advantageously devoid of glycols and / or polyols.

The composition according to the invention is capable of forming a stable, homogeneous and resistant film on keratin materials. The compositions of the invention thus have enhanced anti-deposition properties against fine particles, in particular by the formation of anti-adhesive films on keratinous substances making it possible to prevent the deposit of pollutant compounds on said keratin materials.

The components used in particular have film-forming properties of the fatty phase and make it possible to stabilize a film that can be described as a "greasy film".

The present invention thus aims to provide compositions for use in the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, having improved properties of resistance to dust and fine particles, that is to say having an anti-aging effect. deposition of the fine particles on the keratin materials.

Consequently, the use of spiculisporic acid within the scope of the invention also makes it possible to dispense with the addition of additional film-forming polymers. Indeed, it is always advantageous to be able to formulate compositions comprising a limited number of ingredients.

In addition, the emulsifying properties of this biosurfactant are at least of the order of those of the synthetic surfactants, the O / W emulsions according to the invention are therefore particularly stable and homogeneous, as shown in the examples below.

The composition according to the invention constitutes an interesting alternative to the compositions of the prior art comprising synthetic surfactants by virtue of its emulsifying power, and by the stability, the remanence and the moisture resistance of the films obtained after drying of said composition. .

The composition according to the invention is also particularly respectful of the environment.

The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being able to be formulated by integrating the appropriate ingredients for very diverse cosmetic applications such as deodorants, mascaras, nail polish, skincare and / or makeup products such as creams. or foundation.

The compositions obtained, in particular the skincare and / or make-up products, also lead to films having advantages in terms of sensory properties, especially a pleasant feel.

The film obtained by applying care and / or make-up compositions has a rapid break (property known as "quiek breaking" in English), but this film nonetheless constitutes a brake on spreading. This property of being a brake on the application leads the consumer to apply said composition for a longer duration and with greater pressure on the skin, which allows better penetration of the assets. The disappearance of the brake can also be a sign of completed and successful application.

According to a second aspect, the present invention aims at the use of the composition according to the invention as a product for makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning of keratinous substances such as skin or hair, in particular in as a cleaning product for keratin materials.

According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention said keratin materials.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention is a composition for protecting keratin materials, more particularly the skin, against air pollutants.

Thus, the present invention also aims at the use of the composition according to the invention for protecting keratin materials with respect to atmospheric pollutant compounds chosen in particular from carbon black, carbon oxides, nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, hydrocarbon compounds, volatile organic compounds, heavy metals, particulate PM2.5, PM10 and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, said use is intended to protect keratin materials from disorders due to atmospheric pollutant compounds, said disorders being chosen from oily skin, dehydration of the skin, alteration of desquamation, reduction of squaitene, reduction of vitamin E, pigraentaion, the increase of lactic acid.

The present invention also relates to the use of spiculisporic acid in form partially or totally neutralized with a base selected from amino acids and aleanolamines in a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for forming a film on the surface of keratin materials, in particular on the skin or hair, in particular said use is such that the formed film protects the keratinous substances vis-à-vis atmospheric pollutants, or such that the ftim formed promotes the homogeneous distribution of at least one active ingredient included in the composition. keratin materials, said active agent being preferably a UV filter, preferably a lipophilic filter, and / or an additive chosen from pigments, fillers or nacres.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for protecting keratinous substances against atmospheric pollutant compounds chosen in particular from carbon black, carbon oxides, nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, compounds and the like. hydrocarbon compounds, volatile organic compounds, heavy metals, PM2.5, PM10 fine particles and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, said process is intended to protect keratin materials from disorders due to atmospheric pollutant compounds, the said disorders being chosen from oily skin, dehydration of the skin, the alteration of the quenching, the decrease of squalene, the decrease of the vitamin E, pigmentation, increase of lactic acid. Other variants, advantages and properties of the invention will be highlighted in the description and examples which follow.

Spiculisporic acid

The emulsion composition according to the invention comprises spiculisporic acid, also known as 4,5-dicarboxy-4-pentadecanolide, of the formula:

It is known that spiculisporic acid, also called "Sp acid" in the rest of the text, is insoluble, at room temperature, in water and fatty substances but is soluble in ethanol.

In addition, it is known that spiculisporic acid can be solubilized at room temperature by salification.

More exactly, the acid Sp can form a mono-salt, a di-salt or a tri-salt.

The mono-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic group bonded to the carbon atom in the C4 position of the acid Sp; the di-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups bonded to the carbon atoms in the C4 and C5 positions of the Sp acid; the tri-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups bonded to the carbon atoms in the C4 and C5 positions of the Sp acid and to the salification of the lactone function in its open form.

In the emulsions according to the invention, the spiculisporic acid may be in the form of a mono-salt, a di-salt, a tri-salt or a mixture of several salts of different degrees of salification.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the spiculisporic acid is in the form of a mono-salt.

As already mentioned, the amount of spiculisporic acid ranges from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably from 0.7 to 8% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to total weight of the composition.

In particular, the amount of spiculisporic acid is 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5. , 2, 3, 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Base The emulsion according to the present invention comprises at least one base selected from amino acids and alkanolamines, said base being present in an amount capable of forming at least the monosel of spiculisporic acid.

The base used is a neutralizing base, that is to say it allows to neutralize the spiculisporic acid to form a salt of said acid.

The base (s) is / are thus used (s) in an amount capable of forming the mono-salt, the di-salt, the tri-salt or a mixture of several salts of spiculisporic acid with different degrees of salification .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of base is chosen so as to form the monosel of spiculisporic acid.

In the context of the invention, the base is chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines.

More particularly, the base may be chosen from the basic amino acids arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine. Preferably, the amino acid is arginine.

The base may also be chosen from the following alkanolamines: mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred manner, the alkanolamine is triethanolamine.

Advantageously, the amount of base is from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 and even more preferably from 0.6 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium

In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin and / or the lips, such as water, oils or organic solvents commonly used in the cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerability, toxicology and acceptable touch) is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

Fatty phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase.

As shown in the examples, the composition may contain up to 60% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions, even including a high fat phase level can lead to stable, homogeneous and resistant films.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, and in particular liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure or oils (which form the oily phase). ).

The oils present in the composition according to the invention may be silicone or hydrocarbon-based.

By silicone oil (or silicone oil) is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

As silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile silicone oils such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca-methylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as rheptamethylhexyl-trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl-disiloxane, octamethyl-trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane; non-volatile silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and phenyl polymethylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

By "volatile" is meant a compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg), mm Hg).

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, maize, soya, squash, Grapes, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R10R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, volatile or non-volatile, and their derivatives, such as branched alkyles containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, for example isoalkanes (also called isoparaffms) in C8; -C18 such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, such as the isoparaffms sold under the trade names Isopar by the company Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade names Permethyl by the company Presperse, the isohexadecane and the isododecane marketed by the company INEOS; as well as petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; volatile linear alkanes comprising 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleic alcohol; and - their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made of the following oils: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and from at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by COGNIS company, - fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE de Cognis), - glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms such as 2-ethyl hexyl ether glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH; octydodecanol, alkanes such as those described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cil), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (Cl 3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis; the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viseoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the name MCI dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; and »their mixtures.

Preferably, the oil is chosen from vegetable oils as mentioned above.

The amount of phase in the composition of the invention may range from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 70%, more preferably from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Aqueous phase Water may be present in a total content ranging from 30 to 90%, preferably 40 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30%, preferably at least 40% by weight of water, preferably at least 50% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, besides water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase constitutes the continuous phase of the composition.

By aqueous continuous phase composition, it is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., of greater than or equal to 23 μS / em (mm.siemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter. MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate any air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol.

In the present invention, the term "polyol" means glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, and C3 and C4 ketones. and C2-C4 aldehydes, or polyols such as, for example, glycerine.

As already mentioned, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 3%, preferably less than 1% by weight of glycol (s) or polyol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is devoid of glycol (s) and / or polyol (s).

Advantageously, the ratio glycol (s) / spiculisporic acid or polyol (s) / spiculisporic acid is less than 1, preferably less than 0.2.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 40% to 95% by weight.

Thickening agent

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent as a thickener.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agents are polymeric and advantageously they are natural or of natural origin.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modifying natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, and alginate-based compounds, in particular alginate. sodium, saroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.

Depending on the intended application, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in the care and / or make-up compositions, dyestuffs, in particular pigments, nacres, particles with a metallic sheen.

An advantage of the present invention is that it allows a homogeneous dispersion of these fillers, nacres, pigments in the composition.

Of course those skilled in the art will choose these additives so that they are compatible with the other components of the composition.

Charge

A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in the care and / or make-up compositions, and various of the pigments, nacres and particles with a metallic sheen.

These fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to confer on the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat. As an illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, ροΐγ-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®) for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, silica microspheres hollow, and microcapsules of glass or ceramic. It is also possible to use particles, which are in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.01% and 25% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 1% and 10%, weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

nacres

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mother-of-pearl.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, the nacres Timiron marketed by Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the company Eckart and nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride.

pigments

As stated above, a composition may further contain pigments.

These pigments may be inorganic pigments in particular as defined above.

These pigments can also be organic pigments.

By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso compounds, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanine, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, and blue pigments codified in the formula. Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives, phenolic as they are t described in patent FR 2 679 771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45,380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45,370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45,410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45,425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45,430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Green (CI 61,570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42,053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42,090). As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the name D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1).

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV filter.

ÜV filter

This filter is chosen from UV-A and / or UV-B filters.

Even more particularly, said UV filter is chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic filters and their mixtures, and more particularly liposoluble organic UV filters. By way of illustration of the UV filters, and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40® available from BA SF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300®). available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP® available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232® available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M® available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (UvinulN35® available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX® available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539® available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, in particular butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB® available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150® available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); Mexoryl®; salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S® available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide coated or uncoated.

In a preferred embodiment, the presence of spiculisporic acid in the compositions according to the invention comprising sun protection filters results in a surprising increase in SPF compared to equivalent compositions not comprising spiculisporic acid.

Additional dispersing agent

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional dispersing agent.

Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them.

According to a particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is a surfactant.

Active

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional active agent chosen from additional surfactants, moisturizing agents, anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants, stimulating active ingredients synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules, dermodecontracting agents, depigmenting agents, deodorants, perfumes and mixtures thereof.

These additional active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.

Anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents Representative of anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents that may be used in the present invention may more particularly be mentioned adenosine, retinol and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives, as described in particular below; plant extracts and in particular extracts of sea fennel and olive leaf, as well as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, such as hydrolysates of rice or soy proteins; or Vigna aconitifolia seed extracts such as those marketed by Cognis under the references Vitoptine LS9529 and Vit-A-Like LS9737; algae extracts and in particular laminaria; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea, in particular Wild Yam, containing it; α-hydroxy acids; β-hydroxyacids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acylated derivatives, in particular {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by SEDERMA under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene; manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates; and their mixtures.

Humectants or moisturizers

As humectants or moisturizers, mention may be made in particular of aloe vera extract, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, monosaccharides such as mannose, hyaluronic acid, AHAs and BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol such as WILBRIDE S-753L® from NOF corporation, a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon.

Additional desquamating agents

As desquamating agents, mention may be made of beta-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives other than n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), and mixtures thereof.

Antioxidants

As antioxidants, there may be mentioned more specifically tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

Dermodecontracting agents or dermorelaxants

As dermodecontracting or dermorelaxing agents, mention may be made especially of manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

Stimulating active ingredients the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation

As active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine® malt extract as marketed under the name Collalift® by BASF BCS; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, or an extract of rice peptides such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm DSM, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in FR-A-2 814 950; the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®, and mixtures thereof, verbena hydrosol.

Depigmenting agents

As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned ceramides, vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-0 ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthetine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, phenylethyl resorcinol such as Symwhite 377® from Symrise, a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, a mixture of undecylenic acid and phenylalanine undecylenoyl, such as Sepiwhite MSH® from Seppic.

Deodorants

As deodorants according to the invention, mention may be made of essential oils, bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan) 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (® Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (®Farnesol).

Deodorant agents in accordance with the invention may also be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol de la Symrise company); glycerol derivatives, for example Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM from Abitec), caprylate or Glycerol caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY and DERMOSOFT GMC respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DG ™ from STRAETMANS); biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and its salts; and 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP from Symrise).

Zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate can also be mentioned as deodorant agents; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate or salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

In addition, deodorants according to the invention may be chosen from odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic zeolites or not, cyclodextrins.

It may also be a chelating agent such as Akzo Nobel DISSOLVINE GL-47-S, EDTA; DTPA.

It may still be enzymatic inhibitor such as triethyl citrate.

In case of incompatibility or to stabilize them, some of the agents mentioned above may be incorporated in spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or particles (capsules and / or spheres).

Of course, the deodorant agents that may be present in a composition according to the invention must not alter the advantageous properties of the composition indicated above.

The composition according to the invention may have the form of a skincare or make-up product for the face and / or the body, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of potted cream or fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle.

It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES

In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as a percentage by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation of compositions

The compositions are prepared with Rayneri according to the following protocol: the water is weighed in the preparation beaker, the spiculisporic acid is introduced with mechanical stirring, being insoluble in water, it remains in the form of a powder, the In particular, arginine is added with mechanical stirring, the mixture of the powders dissolves as the solution becomes totally translucent after stirring for 5 minutes, the oil (s) are introduced (s), still with stirring and The stirring is maintained for 10 minutes at 700-1000 RPM depending on the viscosity of the medium. - The preservative is added along with water to reach the target concentration.

Preparations of the films

The films are prepared using a film puller which is in the form of a mechanical arm which sweeps a flat surface at a controlled speed. The thickness of the films is controlled using specimens of precise slot thicknesses. The film is then left in the open to dry and the drying behavior is observed. The drying behavior reflects the way in which the active-tension structures the fatty phase during drying as well as the resistance of the film obtained to the ambient humidity. Series 1 -Emulsions comprising a mono-salt of arginine of spiculisporic acid

Table 1

Results

Conforming examples Example 1 comprising 5% of arginine mono-salt of spiculisporic acid leads, after drying, to the formation of a homogeneous and stable film. The film remains stable after storage for two weeks in the open air and at room temperature. In fact, no coalescence of the emulsion or phase separation is observed. The resulting film is dry and "rigid" in that it can be manipulated. Example 2 comprising 1% of arginine mono-salt of spiculisporic acid leads, after drying, to the formation of a homogeneous and stable film. The film is stable after storage for two weeks in the open air and at room temperature. In fact, no coalescence of the emulsion or phase separation is observed.

Comparative Examples Example A comprising 5% arginine mono-salt of spiculisporic acid and 5% glycerine leads, after drying, to the formation of a non-homogeneous film which has holes. The stability of the film is bad. The film quickly becomes greasy, sticky, it can not be manipulated.

After one hour, there is a clear separation of the phases of the emulsion.

The same results were observed by replacing the 5% glycerin with 5% propanediol. The emulsion of Example B, without spiculisporic acid, comprising 1% of xanthan is not stable, a phase shift is observed rapidly after the preparation. Moreover, this emulsion does not lead to a homogeneous and stable film. This example shows that xanthan alone does not make it possible to obtain a composition having film-forming properties. The emulsion of Example C comprising 5% potassium mono-salt of spiculisporic acid is stable after preparation but after 10 hours the emulsion has crystals. The film obtained after drying rapidly has a phase shift. Series 2 - Emulsions comprising an arginine salt of spiculisporic acid - variation of the fatty phase

Table 2

Results

Emulsions were prepared using oils of very different polarity: from less polar (squalane) to more polar (olive oil). In all cases, stable emulsions were obtained leading to good quality films. Series 3 - Emulsions comprising arginine salt of spiculisporic acid - change in fat phase rate

Table 3

Results

All LEE emulsions obtained, even with a high fat content, are stable and lead to good quality films: these films are homogeneous, have good performance, and a dry, non-greasy feel. Series 4 -Emulsions comprising filmoene polymers or a synthetic surfactant

Table 4

Results

In the composition of Comparative Example D, SLG (synthetic surfactant) and xanthan are used to stabilize the emulsion formed and to be able to prepare a film. The film thus obtained spreads well but is not stable after drying since there is coalescence.

In each of the compositions of Comparative Examples E and F, a film-forming polymer is used, these polymers do not make it possible to make stable emulsions and the films obtained are inhomogeneous. The polymers tested do not make it possible to stabilize a greasy film.

Claims (19)

1. Particularly cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase, an aqueous phase characterized in that it comprises: from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one base selected from amino acids and alkanolamines in an amount capable of forming at least one monosel spiculisporic acid, said composition comprising less than 3%, preferably less than 1% by weight of glycol (s) and / or polyol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously being devoid of glycols and / or or polyol (s). 2. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the base is an amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, preferably arginine. 3. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the base is an alkanolamine selected from mono-, di-, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propoanol, preferably triethanolamine. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of base is from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 and even more preferably from 0.6 to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of base is selected to form the monosel of spiculisporic acid. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of fat phase is present in an amount ranging from 1 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises less than a hydrophilic gelling agent as a thickener. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim further comprising at least one UV filter, preferably lipophilic. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one additive selected from pigment materials, fillers, nacres. 11. Use of the composition according to one of the preceding claims as a makeup product, care, hygiene and / or cleaning of keratin materials including skin or hair. 12. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 for protecting the keratinous material vis-à-vis the atmospheric pollutants in particular selected from carbon black, carbon oxides, nitrogen oxides, oxides sulfur compounds, hydrocarbon compounds, volatile organic compounds, heavy metals, PM2.5, PM10 fine particles and mixtures thereof. 13. Use according to the preceding claim for protecting keratinous substances from disorders due to atmospheric pollutant compounds, said disorders being chosen from oily skin, dehydration of the skin, the alteration of the quenching, the decrease of squalene, the decrease of vitamin E, pigmentaion, increase in lactic acid. 14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic, makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning process comprising a step of applying the composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 on said keratin materials. 15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for protecting keratinous substances against atmospheric pollutant compounds chosen especially from carbon black, carbon oxides, nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, hydrocarbon compounds, compounds volatile organic compounds, heavy metals, particulate PM2.5, PM10 and mixtures thereof. 16. Method according to the preceding claim for protecting keratin materials from disorders due to atmospheric pollutant compounds, said disorders being chosen from oily skin, dehydration of the skin, the alteration of the quenching, the decrease of squalene, the decrease of vitamin E, pigmentaion, increase in lactic acid. 17. Use of spiculisporic acid in form partially or totally neutralized with a base chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines in a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for forming a film on the surface of keratin materials, in particular on the skin or the skin. hair 18. Use according to claim 17, wherein the formed film protects the keratin materials against atmospheric pollutants. 19. Use according to claim 17, wherein the formed film promotes the homogeneous distribution of at least one active ingredient included in the composition on the keratin materials, said active agent being preferably a UV filter, preferably lipophilic, and / or a chosen additive. among pigments, fillers or nacres.