FR2944972A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SURFACTANT HLB HIGHER OR EQUAL TO 12 AND A COATED PIGMENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that it comprises at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and in that it comprises (i) at least one surfactant of higher HLB or equal to 12, anionic or nonionic, and (ii) at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic specific compound.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, especially in the form of emulsions, for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, including keratinous fibers, in particular skin and eyelashes. The cosmetic products concerned are more particularly intended to be applied to eyelashes, like mascaras or on the skin, such as foundations. In the field of makeup and / or cosmetic care, a large number of compositions is in the form of emulsions. These emulsions generally contain one or more emulsifier (s) chosen from anionic, nonionic or amphoteric emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The present invention more specifically relates to emulsions formed from the dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous continuous phase, and more particularly to wax-in-water and oil-in-water emulsions. In addition, the cosmetic compositions, whether those intended for making up the skin, such as foundations or keratinous fibers such as mascaras, generally aim to provide, at the make-up support level, an aesthetic effect. , and more particularly a coloring effect. The latter is generally obtained by incorporation into the composition of one or more pigments. However, the use of pigments in emulsion-type compositions does not pose certain difficulties in terms of the quality of the emulsion obtained, in particular in terms of emulsion stability and / or quality of the emulsion. dispersion of the pigments within the formula. In general, during emulsification, the surfactants may indeed have a tendency to adsorb to the surface of the pigments used, thus no longer satisfying their role within the emulsion. In other words, these adsorbed surfactants no longer place at the interface of the fatty phase to emulsify it properly. Therefore, the formulas thus obtained can be difficult to implement and stabilize. It can be observed a phase shift during and after the emulsion, even with strong agitation, a granular appearance and unstable cooling.

As a result, the emulsion may have pigment dispersion qualities and / or a very average emulsion fineness (presence of globules observed under a microscope, agglomeration or flocculation of pigments, gray color of the final formula, etc.). The present invention aims precisely at providing cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in the form of emulsions, comprising pigments, and which have a good quality of dispersion of the pigments and / or fineness of the emulsion. . US 2006/0225617 relates to colored cosmetic compositions comprising pigments coated with polyhydroxy fatty acid, especially dihydroxystearic acid and / or a metal salt thereof, having improved properties, such as, in the case of a mascara, a gain in bending, volume and a decrease in drying time. US 6,432,417 relates to cosmetic compositions, comprising a dispersion of particles, in particular pigments, coated with a cationic polymer, having good adhesion properties and, in the case of compacted compositions, good cohesion properties. As can be seen from the examples presented below, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate an emulsion of improved quality, especially in terms of stability, fineness of the emulsion and dispersion of the pigments, provided that in combination with one or more surfactants present in free form in the aqueous phase, pigments in a form coated with at least one lipophilic compound. For the purposes of the invention, the label surfactants present in free form is intended to distinguish these surfactants from those possibly entering the composition of the coating of the pigments according to the invention. The set of surfactants present in free form in a composition according to the invention is also called emulsifying system. Within the meaning of the invention, a coated pigment generally denotes a surface-treated pigment, totally or partially, with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. Surface treatment agents are developed later. Without being bound by the theory, it can be supposed that the use of a pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound makes it possible to limit the adsorption of the surfactant or surfactants of the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention on the pigments, allowing thus improving the effectiveness of the surfactants within the formulation. This results in particular an improvement in the implementation of the emulsion and the general state of dispersion, including fineness, stability of the emulsion and dispersion of the improved pigments. Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that it comprises at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and in that it comprises (i ) at least one HLB surfactant greater than or equal to 12, anionic or nonionic, said surfactant being present in free form in the composition, and (ii) at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound, with the exception metal salts of C10-C30 fatty acids, and especially chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof. The optimization of the effectiveness of the surfactants present in free form in a composition of the invention, because of the coating of the pigments with at least one lipophilic compound, advantageously makes it possible to reduce the surfactant content of the emulsifying system used. . Thus, the surfactant (s) of HLB greater than or equal to 12, present in free form in a composition of the invention or emulsifying system, can represent from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0, 1% to 3%, more preferably 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the total weight of the composition. The low content of surfactants in a composition according to the invention, combined with the presence of pigments coated with at least one lipophilic compound, makes it possible in particular to obtain a composition having a good behavior over time, and in particular a good resistance to the water. According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or skin, comprising at least the application on said keratin materials of a composition as defined previously. The subject of the present invention is also, according to another of its aspects, the use in a composition comprising at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, of the combination of at least (i) a surfactant of higher HLB or equal to 12, anionic or nonionic, said surfactant being present in free form in the composition, and at least (ii) a coated pigment as described above, to improve the stability and / or the fineness of the emulsion and / or the dispersion of said pigments.

SURFACTANTS OF HLB SUPERIOR OR EQUAL TO 12 According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 12, in particular chosen from nonionic and anionic surfactants. Preferably, the surfactants that are suitable for the invention have an HLB greater than or equal to 12, in particular greater than or equal to 14, and preferably greater than or equal to 16. The HLB greater than or equal to 12 (respectively 14, 16) means of a surfactant having at 25 ° C a balance HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN greater than or equal to 12 (respectively 14, 16). The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 20 (Volume 5), pages 249-256. See Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for nonionic surfactants. The HLB surfactant greater than or equal to 12 may be ionic, nonionic or of mixed ionic and nonionic character. In particular, the surfactants of HLB greater than or equal to 12, which are mentioned in the McCutcheons Emulsifiers & Dertergents, International Edition of 1998 and following, may be used. By way of examples, mention may be made of those appearing on pages 223 to 231 of the HLB Index section of the 1998 edition.

Nonionic Surfactants The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from polyalkylene oxide alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkylamines. sorbitan esters, whether or not polyoxyethylenated, polyoxyethylenated or unsaturated polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl- and polyalkylglycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl- sucrose esters, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycerol esters, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycerol ethers, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, and mixtures thereof. 1) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, stearate may be mentioned. 40E, stearate 50E, stearate 100E, laurate 20E, laurate 40E, distearate 150E. (2) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, cetyl may be mentioned. ether 23 0E, oleoyl ether 50 0E, phytosterol 30E, steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 100. 3) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, it is preferable to use those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100. For example, sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 OE may be mentioned, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as Tween 20 product marketed by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 0E, sorbitan stearate 20 OE, sorbitan oleate 20 OE or Cremophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. (4) Polyoxyethylenated or unsaturated polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably used with those having a number of ethylene oxide (OE) units of from 0 to 100. 5) As alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 6 to 18 or even 8 to 16 carbon atoms and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 are preferably used, especially 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP by Henkel. and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110 by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N by Henkel; cocoglucoside as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP by Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP by Cognis; and their mixtures. More generally, alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are defined more specifically later. 6) Sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters include, for example, Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example sucrose palmitate marketed under the reference is Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. 7) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, whether polyoxyethylenated or not, those with a number of oxide units are preferably used. ethylene (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. For example, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate may be mentioned. 8) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100 and Nikkol chemyl alcohol 100.

Anionic Surfactants The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides and metal salts. of C10-C30 fatty acids, in particular C12-C20 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and mixtures thereof. 1) As alkyl ether sulfates, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 OE) marketed under the names Sipon AOS225 or Texon N702 by the company Henkel, lauryl ether sulphate ammonium chloride (C12-14 70-30) (30E) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90 E) ammonium sulphate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sodium sulfate and magnesium sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson. 2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned for example the (for example alkaline) salts of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts. The glycol carboxylate type surfactant may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic acids comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic acids can be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol type, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate), such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form). As amido ether carboxylate (AEC), mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (30E), sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 30 by the company Kao Chemicals. As polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12.14.16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (60E) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV by the company Kao Chemicals, the acids polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil of the origin marketed under the name OLIVEM 400 by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated tri-decyl ether carboxylate (60E) sold under the name NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX by the company Nikkol. 3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30 by the company Seppic, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN by the company Nikkol, the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN by the company Nikkol. alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone Ale by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine; sold under the name ALANONE ALTA by the company Kawaken. glutamates, such as the triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12 by the company Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company Ajinomoto.

The salts and / or derivatives of glutamic acid are described more precisely later. aspartates, such as the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate triethanolamine / N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine marketed under the name ASPARACK by the company Mitsubishi. glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names AMILITE GCS-12 and AMILITE GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto. citrates, such as the mono-citric ester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt. galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. 4) As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 by the company Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30 by the company Clariant; 5) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P by the company Jordan. 6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF by the company Clariant or marketed under the trademark NIKKOL CMT-30-T by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate; sodium marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT by Nikkol. 7) As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulfinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the di-sodium oxyethylenated oleamide sulfosuccinate (20E) marketed under the name Standapol SH 135 by the company Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate (50E) sold under the name LEBON A-5000 by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate oxyethylenated (10E) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50 by the company Witco, the ricinoleic monoethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333 by the company Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre. 8) As alkyl sulphoacetate, mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of sodium lauryl sulpho acetate and di-sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-MilD LSB by the company Stepan. 9) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20 by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid; a mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) sold under the name CRAFOL AP-31 by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20 by the Cognis company, the mixture of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol (7 moles of EO) phophoric acid monoester and diester, marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER by Condea, potassium or triethanolamine salt monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40 and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60 by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under appointment DERMALCARE MAP XC-99/09 by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema. 10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular wheat and oats. As polypeptides, mention may be made, for example, of the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein, sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl soy protein hydrolysed, sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on the coconut fatty acid, sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic. 11) As metal salts of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, in particular C 12 -C 20, mention may in particular be made of metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise one or more surfactants (s) of HLB greater than or equal to 12, present in free form in the composition, chosen from glutamic acid derivatives and or their salts, alkylpolyglycosides, sodium stearate, potassium stearate, and mixtures thereof. According to yet another particular embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises the combination of at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts and at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular as described hereinabove. below.

GLUTAMIC ACID DERIVATIVE The salt and / or glutamic acid derivative may be, for example, chosen from acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates) and their mixtures, preferably from acyl glutamic acids. wherein the acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids. Mention may in particular be made of the compounds bearing the INCI name lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or marketed by the company. Keminova Italiana SRL. As salt of glutamic acid derivative, mention may also be made of disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference Amisoft HS-21 by the company Ajinomoto. It is also possible to mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, such as for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

According to a particular embodiment, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid is used, more particularly that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11.

ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE For the purposes of the present invention, the term alkylpolyglycoside, an alkylmonoside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkylpolyoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1). The alkylpolyglycosides can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally correspond to the following structure: R (O) (G) X in which the radical R is a linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl radical, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes glucose. It should further be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide portion of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in isomeric form a or 13, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide moiety may be of furanoside or pyranoside type. It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the worn alkyl unit and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside may be used in admixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a fatty alcohol having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as described later in the co-surfactant section. In addition, it is particularly advantageous according to the present invention to use a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl portion of which is identical to that of the fatty alcohol retained.

The fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known per se. They are described in particular in the applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610 and prepared according to the preparation methods indicated in these documents.

Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names MONTANOV such as the following mixtures: cetylstearyl alcohol / cocoglucoside MONTANOV 82 arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside MONTANOV 802 - Myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside - MONTANOV 14 - Cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside - MONTANOV 68 - C14-C22 / C12-C20 alcohol alkylglucoside - MONTANOV L - Cocoalcohol / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV Sc '15 - Isostearyl alcohol / Isostearylglucoside - MONTANOV WO 18 . According to a particular embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside used in a composition according to the invention is cetylstearyl glucoside. It is advantageously used in the form of a mixture with cetylstearyl alcohol, also known as cetearyl alcohol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside, marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68, consisting of about 20% of cetylstearyl glucoside and about 80% of cetylstearyl alcohol.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises the combination of mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, more particularly that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11; with a mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl glucoside, more particularly that sold sold by the company SEPPIC under the name 30 MONTANOV 68.

Co-surfactants According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one co-surfactant. The co-surfactants may especially be chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. By fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms is meant any pure fatty alcohol, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in combination with the alkylpolyglycoside (s) of the emulsifying system according to the invention, mention may be made of straight or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or else natural, such as for example alcohols from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow ...). Of course, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols. Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coco (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or diol or cholesterol type compounds. It is preferable to use a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). , behenic, erucic, arachidylic and mixtures thereof. Cetaryl alcohol is preferably used.

Such fatty alcohols are in particular marketed under the name NAFOL by the company SASOL. As described above, these fatty alcohols can be used together with the alkylpolyglycoside (s) when they are present in a composition according to the invention, in commercially available alcohol mixtures. fatty / alkylpolyglycoside, such as for example the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol and cetylstearylglucoside sold by the company SEPPIC, under the reference MONTANOV 68.

Among the co-surfactants that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of glyceryl mono- and / or distearate. The co-surfactant (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The total content of surfactants and co-surfactants in a composition of the invention or content of emulsifying system may range from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. % in weight.

According to a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant. According to one particular embodiment, the content of anionic surfactants present in free form in a composition of the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight. and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system of a composition of the invention comprises the combination of a derivative and / or glutamic acid salt, an alkylpolyglycoside and optionally glyceryl mono and / or distearate. According to another embodiment of the invention, the emulsifying system of a composition of the invention comprises glyceryl mono and / or distearate, sodium stearate and / or potassium stearate.

PIGMENTS By pigments must be understood white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. All the pigments described below may be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, the coating being as described below. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso compounds, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone. The organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanine, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, and blue pigments codified in the formula. Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of derivatives indolic, phenolic as described These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially. an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments on the core. The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45,380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45,370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45,410), D & C Orange 10 (IC 45,425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45,430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Green (CI 61,570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42,053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42,090).

As examples of lacquers, there may be mentioned the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1). The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta 2 O 5, Ti 3 O 5, Ti 2 O 3, TiO, ZrO 2 mixed with TiO 2, ZrO 2, Nb 2 O 5, CeO 2, ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 m, preferably between 20 nm and 5 m, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 m. In the context of the invention, the pigments as described above can be coated. The coating of these pigments is as described below.

According to a particular embodiment, the coated pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments, and in particular iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of the pigment consisting of titanium dioxide and iron oxide marketed by MIYOSHI KASEI under the reference NAI.

Coating of the Pigment The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of solid particles. The coating may represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply stirring the particles and said surfactant, optionally while hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other particles. ingredients of the makeup or care composition. The coating may be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent When the pigment comprises a lipophilic coating, the latter is present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone surface agent According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of silicone nature. Silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms. i) Non-Elastomeric Organopolysiloxane Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes. The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical RO- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl. A method for surface treatment of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant can be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from po-lydiméthylsiloxanes. ii) Alkylsilanes and Alkoxysilanes Alkoxy-functional silanes are described in particular by Witucki in silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments. The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in JP 077-196946.

They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments.

iii) Silicone-Acrylate Polymers Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US Pat. Nos. 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US Pat. No. 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582 can be used. Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers having in their structure the following unit of formula (I): ## STR2 ## where G 1 (G 2), 7 SiG 3 G 1 G (ù Si), (G 2) 1 SùG4 (I) in which the radicals G1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen, a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350, c is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0. Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: the radicals G 1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; n is non-zero, and the radicals G 2 represent a divalent C 1 -C 3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; G 4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (meth) acrylate (C1-C10) alkyl type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate type; . Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting member, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type. and of the poly (meth) acrylate type. Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, by means of a thiopropylene type connecting member, polymer units of the poly (meth) type. isobutyl acrylate.

Iv) Silicone resins The silicone surfactant may be selected from silicone resins. By resin is meant a three-dimensional structure. Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as MDTQ, the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit. The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH3) 2SiO2i2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) SiO3i2. In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetra-functional SiO412 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the remainder of the polymer. Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH 3) 3 X SiXO], X (SiO 4 12) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from from 50 to 80, polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH3SiO3i2) n (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above, polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694. By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those marketed by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO312 (T units), which may also be comprising up to 1% by weight of units (CH 3) 2 SiO 2 R 2 (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, - by SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of units T of formula CH3SiO3i2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or even under reference KR-251 comprising 88% T units and 12% dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000, .E. 1 170-002 or SS 4230, by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC or under the references TMS 803, WACKER 803 and 804 by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu, DC 749, DC 593 by Dow Corning.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of: the red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10 by the company Miyoshi Kasei, and a pigment obtained by treatment of DC Red 7 with a silicone compound, marketed by Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM (which is a mixture of D5 and polysilicon 11).

Fluoro surface agent The pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of a fluorinated nature. The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups. The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Perfluoropolyethers are in particular described in the patent application EP-A-486135 and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 can be used. Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom. Among the perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by the company RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecalin), perfluoro (C 3 -C 5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane) ). Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene . Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of: the yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601 by the company Daito Kasei, red iron / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L by the company Daito Kasei, - black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100 by the company Daito Kasei, - dioxide titanium / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference 30 PF 5 TiO 2 CR 50 by the company Daito Kasei, - yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3 by the company Toshiki, - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D & C Red 7 FHC by Cardre Inc., - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506 by the company Warner - Jenkinson.

Fluoro-silicone surface agent The pigments can be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound. The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes. As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of LP-IT and LP-4T products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone. The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which: R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m is chosen from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100. By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from: metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; As metal soaps, mention may be made in particular of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal soap metal may in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid. N-acylamino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for example stearoyl glutamate. aluminum. lecithin and its derivatives, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate, 25 As examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), mention may be made of those sold under the trade reference BWBO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77499). and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by KOBO. Isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters; phospholipids; and - their mixtures. The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those generally used in the cosmetics field, as defined below.

They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. By polar wax is meant a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; it may be for example an alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid group. Polyester waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not included in the polar waxes. In particular, polar waxes have an average solubility parameter dA of Hansen at 25 ° C such that dA> 0 (J / cm) 1/2 and better dA> 1 (J / cm) '/ 2 = +. where dP and dH are respectively the polar and interaction-specific contributions to Hansen's solubility parameters. The definition of solvents in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967); dH characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); dP characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles. The parameters dP and dH are expressed in (J / cm3YA). A polar wax notably consists of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P). Illustrative and non-limiting example of these polar waxes, mention may be made of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes from China. Rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; wax of montan.

The pigments coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better than 1. at 15% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and their mixtures. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, especially a stearoyl glutamate, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate, or a fatty ester, in particular a jojoba ester. As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of the following compounds: coated iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate, for example sold by Miyoshi under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10; - Iron oxide coated with jojoba esters, for example sold by the company KOBO under the reference BWBO-NJE2; and titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI.

Other non-surface-treated coloring agents The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one surface-not-treated dyestuff. The dyestuff may be chosen from pigments as described above, not surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, water-soluble or liposoluble dyestuffs, pearlescent agents or pigments with special effects.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, blue

Liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, pearly pigments or pearlescent agents, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference methylene As examples of pearlescent pigments, mention may be made of white pearlescent pigments, for example mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and in particular with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. By way of example, mention may be made of Cellini pigments marketed by Engelhard (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), and Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3). In addition to nacres on a mica support, it is possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

The coloring agent may also be a special effect pigment. Pigments with special effects means pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain nuance, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changeable according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , observation angles, ...). They are therefore opposed to white or colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or conventional transparent tint.

There are two types of special effect pigments, those with low refractive index such as fluorescent pigments, photochromic or thermochromic, and those with higher refractive index such as nacres or flakes. As special effect pigments, mention may be made of pearlescent pigments such as white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Non-fixed interference-effect pigments may also be mentioned, such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x by Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are fluorescent substances in the light of day or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the Quantum Dots Corporation. Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation having a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. In particular, they can be manufactured according to the methods described for example in US Pat. No. 6,225,198 or US Pat. No. 5,990,479, in the publications cited therein, as well as in the following publications: Dabboussi BO et al (CdSe) ZnS core-shell quantum dots: A Novel Nanocrystalline Luminescent Synthesis and Characterization of a Size Journal of Physical Chemistry, Vol 101, 1997, pp 9463-9475. and Peng, Xiaogang et al, Epitaxial Growth of Highly Luminescent CdSe / CdS core / nanocrystals shell with photostability and electronic accessibility Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol 119, No. 30, pp 7019-7029. Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are fluorescent substances in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments.

The pigments that are not surface-treated may be present in the composition in a content of less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, and even more preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM The compositions according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the keratin materials of human beings and of appearance, odor and to touch pleasant. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase and carried out directly or indirectly. They may be simple emulsions obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or emulsion of multiple emulsion type. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a wax-in-water or oil-in-water emulsion. The compositions of the invention may be of liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, or of a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of cream or gel type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase, which forms the continuous phase. By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 23 S / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a MPC227 conductivity meter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements. The aqueous phase comprises water and / or at least one water-soluble solvent.

By water-soluble solvent is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 10% to 70% by weight, and preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight.

Liquid Crack Phase The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase, constituting in particular a dispersed phase in a continuous aqueous phase. The fatty phase is generally present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from from 5% to 30% by weight. The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one or more oils or organic solvents.

By oil or organic solvent, in the sense of the application means a non-aqueous body liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The oil may be chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. The oil or oils may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). In particular, the volatile oils are chosen from oils having an evaporation rate greater than or equal to 0.002 mg / cm 2 / min. The evaporation rate is measured as follows: is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in an enclosure of about 0.3 m3 regulated in temperature (25 ° C.) and hygrometry ( relative humidity 50%) 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (speed of rotation 2700 revolutions / minute and dimensions 80 × 80 × 42 mm, for example the reference 8550 N of PAPST-MOTOREN, the flow corresponds at about 50 m 3 / hour) disposed vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm) and per unit time (minute). By non-volatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, neopentanoate isohexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane. The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile organic oil or solvent, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates, - acetals, - citrates, - and their mixtures. The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

Lipophilic structuring agent The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

Waxes The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one wax or a mixture of waxes. In particular, the foundation compositions according to the invention may be free of waxes.

The compositions according to the invention, such as mascaras, may comprise one or more waxes, in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 2% to 30% by weight. According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may especially be in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, in other words comprise a dispersion of a wax or mixture of waxes in a continuous aqueous phase. The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. ° C up to 120 ° C, with the exception of fatty alcohols, as described above, including fatty alcohols having 10 to 30 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

By bringing the wax to the liquid state (fusion), it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 45 ° C., and in particular greater than 55 ° C. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from 0 ° C to 120 ° C, to the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute . During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or otherwise at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The wax may also have a hardness of from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name HEST 2T-4S by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73 and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. These are in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes consisting essentially (except for the end groups) of units of formulas II and III, in the respective molar proportions m and n: (1I in which: each substituent R is defined as above, each R 'independently represents an optionally unsaturated (linear or branched) alkyl having 6-30 carbon atoms, or a -XR "group, each X independently representing: - O-, - (CH 2) aO-CO- - (CH2) b -CO-O-, a and b independently represent numbers ranging from 0 to 6, and each R "independently represents an optionally unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms; is a number which can vary from 0 to 400, and in particular from 0 to 100, - n is a number which can vary from 1 to 200, and in particular from 1 to 100, the sum (m + n) being less than 400, and in particular less than or equal to 15 100. These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 20 (GENERAL ELECTRIC). The silicone waxes that may be used may also be chosen from compounds of the following formula (IV): R 1 -Si (CH 3) 2 -O- [Si (R) 2 -O] -Z-Si (CH 3) 2 -R 2 (IV R 1 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group of formula: R 2 represents an alkyl group of 6; to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of the formula: ## STR2 ## representing a number from 0 to 6, R "being an alkyl having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and z is a number ranging from 1 to 100.

Among the silicone waxes of formula (IV), there may be mentioned in particular alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20 -C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular the (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, called sticky wax, that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 Ns and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5. MPa. The use of a sticky wax may in particular make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to the eyelashes, having good grip on the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth, homogeneous and thickening makeup . The tacky wax used may in particular have a tack ranging from 0.7 Ns to 30 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 1 Ns, in particular ranging from 1 Ns to 20 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 2 Ns, in particular ranging from 2 Ns at 10 Ns, and in particular ranging from 2N.s to 5Ns.

The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compressive force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a mobile cone-shaped acrylic polymer forming an angle of 45 °. The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before measuring. tights. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a depth of penetration of 2 mm. When the mobile penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value 0. The pantyhose corresponds to the integral of the force vs. time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the sticky is expressed in N.s. The tacky wax that can be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even from 0 to 1 MPa at 2.5 MPa. The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.

As sticky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, may be used. of alkyl in Czo-C40. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.

The waxes mentioned above generally have an initial melting point below 45 ° C. The wax (es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The term "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size, expressed as the average effective diameter by volume D [4.3], of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 m.

Microdispersions of wax are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are especially described in Microemulsions Theory and Practice, L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32. In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally a portion of the water, and then gradually adding hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final obtaining of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.

The microdispersions of wax can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, the high-pressure homogenizer, the turbines. The particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 m (in particular ranging from 0.02 m to 0.99 m), preferably less than 0.5 m (in particular ranging from 0.06 m to 0.5 m). These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise, in a minor proportion, oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active agent.

Paste compounds The compositions according to the invention, in particular the mascara-type compositions may further comprise at least one pasty compound. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, more preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

The pasty compound may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, silicone compounds polymers or non-polymers such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, especially - olefin homopolymers, olefin copolymers, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups C 8 -C 30, homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50; esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. The pasty compound may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.

When the pasty compound is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as short chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate. Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or 0E units) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; the phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C16-4o alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid; C 18-409 such as tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 20 dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil. Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction converting a primary aliphatic alcohol to its dimer alcohol (3-alkylated with loss of one equivalent of water.) The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid and undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid , eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof Aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched. I-hydroxylated hydroxyl are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and preferably from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of polyhydric aliphatic saturated monohydroxy carboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of C 2 to C 16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof. The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate; - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called the diisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil; - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called the triisostearate of hydrogenated castor, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50, orange wax. as, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410), butter 30 murumuru (murumuru butter company Beraca Sabara), shea butter partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil, for example Lipex 302 from Aarhuskarlshamn. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises shea butter.

The pasty compound (s) are preferably present in a greater amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise any ingredient conventionally used in the fields concerned and more particularly in the field of mascaras and / or nail polishes, such as, for example, film-forming polymers, gelling agents, fillers and / or fibers.

Film-forming Polymers Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures. By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers. As monomers carrying an acid group, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used. preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl. Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate. Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates. According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide. The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrenic monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas. The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof. . The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen. The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.

As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used. The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an NH4 + ammonium ion or a metal ion, for example an Na, Li +, K, Mg2 + or Cal ion. - ', Cui-', Fe '', Fei +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M. The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid. The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may then be present in the continuous aqueous phase of an emulsion according to the invention.

According to another variant, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described below (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils being selected from the oils mentioned below. As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group).

These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetraally loxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 2% divinyl benzene. Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylpolate , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol. The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight average molecular weight of from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon. As examples of liposoluble homopolymers, there may be mentioned in particular: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates being capable of being crosslinked by means of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol . According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer polyvinylaurate. Liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, for example ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate. Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of MDTQ, the resin being described as a function of the different monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit. As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, and by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749, DC 593 by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US Pat. No. 5,162,410. silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in WO 2004/073626. Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 may also be used. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of to establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches. According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being interconnected by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other. Such polymers are described for example in EP 1 411 069 or WO 04/028488. The film-forming polymer may also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known as a latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070, Neocryl A-1090, Neocryl BT-62, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 SJ- by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trade name JONCRYL by JOHNSON POLYMER or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the trade names Neorez R-981 and Neorez R-974 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405, Avalure UR-410, Avalure UR-425, Avalure UR-450, Sancure 875, Sancure 861, Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85 by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 by the company HYDROMER; the sulpopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM from Chimex and mixtures thereof. Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may be mentioned are acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as Mexomère PAP0 from Chimex, and dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase. the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in WO 04/055081. A composition according to the invention may also further comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

Gelling agents A composition of the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agent.

As hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents, mention may be made of: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company Henkel, the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, the AMPS (Acid Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company 15 CLAR IANT, AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, and the polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise) and their mixtures. As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of: proteins, such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat and soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; associative polyurethanes such as the C16-OE120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (marketed under the name Ser AD FX1100, urethane functional molecule and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit, the rheolate 205 with a urea function sold by RHEOX or else Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% by dry matter in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD fx1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from Servo Delden, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by Rheox. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rhom & Haas or Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, the original polymers. natural, optionally modified, such as: arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis and copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Some of the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above may also act as water-soluble gelling agents. The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5. at 15% by weight.

Charges The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, polymer powders of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon e), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap from the Dow Corning Company) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular thermally expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate or copolymer of acrylonitrile homopolymer, for example those sold respectively under the references Expancel 820 DU 40 and Expancel 007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL. The fillers may represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fibers The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fiber, making it possible in particular, in the case of implementing a composition of the invention in the form of mascara, to obtain an improvement in the lengthening effect.

By fiber, it is necessary to understand an object of length L and diameter D such that L is greater than D, and preferably much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and more preferably from 5 to 150.

The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or full. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 m to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their section may be in a circle of diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 m, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 m and better still from 1 m to 50 m. The weight or titer of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in gram for 9 km of yarn. Preferably, the fibers according to the invention have a title chosen in the range from 0.01 to 10 denier, preferably from 0.1 to 2 denier and better still from 0.3 to 0.7 denier. The fibers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they can be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or uncoated, colored or unstained. As fibers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (nylon) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers such as those sold under the names KERMEL, KERMEL TECH by RHODIA or poly- (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS. The fibers may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise any cosmetic active agent such as the active ingredients chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, thickeners, oligoids elements, softeners, sequestering agents, alkalinizing or acidifying agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, coalescing agents, plasticizers, vitamins, especially solar filters, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .

The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container defining at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closure element. The container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a bag or a case. The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap. articulated to the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve. The container may be associated with an applicator, particularly in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular molding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426.

The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959. The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538. The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure member and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, or clamping. By snapping is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord. The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy). The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially in the form of a tube or a tube flask. The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. container. The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes, also called mascara. It may be a makeup composition, a base coat cosmetic composition also called base coat, a composition to be applied to a cosmetic base coat composition, also called top-coat. Mascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be a foundation composition. The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field. The invention is further illustrated in the following examples which are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 1 to 5 Formulation of mascaras Various mascara formulations have been prepared as shown in Table 1 below. -Dessous.

TABLE 1 Examples 1 2 3 4 5 Comments Formula Formula with Formula with Formula Formula with reference pigment pigment reference concentrations (Without asphalt surfactant invention) divided by half Organic beeswax 14 14 8.7 8.7 8.7 Wax Carnauba Bio 8 8 6.3 6.3 6.3 Candelilla wax - - 3 3 3 Shea butter - - 1 1 1 Classical iron oxide 7 - - - - Coated iron oxide 5 - 5 5 stearoyl glutamate ( ') Coated iron oxide 5 _ _ Jojoba esters (2 Glycerine 3 3 3 3 3 Xanthan gum 0.2 0.2 0.6 0.4 0.4 Gum arabic 3 3 3 3 3 Sodium Stearoyl 1 1 0.7 1 0.5 glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) Alcohol 5 5 2.1 3 1.5 cetearyl / cetearyl glucoside (Montanov 68 from Seppic) Glyceryl stearate 3 3 4.2 6 3 Ethanol 5 5 5 5 5 Preservatives 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 (1) NAI-C33-7001-10 from Miyoshi (2) BWBO-NJE2 from KOBO 10 Procedure: In a double walled main skillet, the waxes, the Montanov 68 th The glyceryl stearate is melted at 85 ° C. The coated pigments are then dispersed in this fatty phase with vigorous stirring. In a secondary beaker, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, glycerine and preservatives are dispersed in water at 85 ° C. The xanthan gum, then the gum arabic, are introduced into this aqueous phase and dispersed under deflocculating until a smooth and homogeneous gel. The emulsion is then carried out with vigorous stirring by adding the aqueous phase, also heated to 85 ° C. on the fatty phase. The whole is then cooled under blades to room temperature to add ethanol.

Results: The characteristics of the emulsions obtained are collated in the following Table 2. TABLE 2 Examples 1 2 3 4 5 Quality of Very fine Very fine Very fine Very fine dispersion * coarse Aspect granular smooth smooth Smooth smooth macroscopic Properties Dry, pasty, Creamy, Creamy, Creamy, Creamy / smooth, application granular smooth smooth smooth very smooth 15 'optical microscope observation under polarized light

Examples of formulation 2 and 3, in accordance with the invention, compared with Example 1 show the interest of the surfactant / coated pigment combination according to the invention on the quality and fineness of the emulsion.

Examples 4 and 5 show the interest of the surfactant / pigment combination according to the invention on the effectiveness of the emulsifying system. Indeed, the emulsion according to the invention has good properties in terms of dispersion quality, fineness of the emulsion and application properties, even reducing by half the content of surfactants.

EXAMPLE 6 Fluid Foundation Compounds / Trade references% by weight Fat phase Mono / glyceryl distearate 6.6 Jojoba oil 5.5 Dicaprylyl ether 17 Pigments (titanium dioxide and iron oxide sold under the reference NAI 13 by Miyoshi Kasei) stearoyl-coated aluminum glutamate Aqueous phase Sodium stearate 1.6 Potassium stearate 0.4 Water 39.7 Smectite 0.5 Glycerin 6 End Phase Silica 2 Ethanol 6 Tocopherol 0.2 Benzyl alcohol 0.5 Glycerol caprate 1 Procedure: The coated pigments are dispersed in dicaprylyl ether and then introduced into the rest of the fatty phase which is heated to 75 ° C. The emulsion is then carried out with vigorous stirring by adding the aqueous phase, also heated at 75 ° C. to the fatty phase. The whole is then cooled to room temperature to add the final phase. Result: The emulsion is fine, the well dispersed pigments and the resistance to water and the uniformity of the skin is better than with an emulsion of the same formula made with uncoated pigments present in the phase. aqueous.

EXAMPLE 7 Fluid foundation Compounds / commercial references% by weight Fat phase Mono / glyceryl distearate 3 Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl alcohols, stearyl (20/80) 3 (sold under the reference MONTANOV 68 by the company SEPPIC) Jojoba oil 5.5 Dicaprylyl ether 17 Pigments (titanium dioxide and iron oxide sold under the reference NAI by 13 Miyoshi Kasei) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate Aqueous phase Monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid sold under the reference 1 Amisoft HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO Water 41.3 Smectite 0.5 Glycerin 6 Final phase Silica 2 Ethanol 6 Tocopherol 0.2 Benzyl alcohol 0.5 Glycerol caprate 1 Procedure: The composition is prepared according to the method Example 6: Result: The emulsion is fine, the pigments well dispersed and the water resistance on the skin is better than an emulsion of the same formula made with pigments n coated in the aqueous phase. 66

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that it comprises at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and in that it comprises (i) at least one surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 12, anionic or nonionic, said surfactant being present in free form in the composition, and (ii) at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound, with the exception of metal salts of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the lipophilic coating compound is selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coating compound is selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and their mixtures. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coating compound is chosen from N-acylamino acids and / or a salt thereof, in particular glutamic acid derivatives and / or a salts thereof, especially stearoyl glutamates, and fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigments coated with at least one lipophilic compound are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) surfactant (s) HLB greater than or equal to 12, present (s) in free form in the composition is (are) selected from surfactants nonionic compounds chosen from poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unsaturated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, alkyl and polyalkyl glycerol esters, whether or not polyoxyethylenated, glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl ether ethers, whether or not polyoxyethylenated, and mixtures thereof; anionic surfactants chosen from alkyl ether sulphates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of fatty acids, C10-C30, especially C12-C20, in particular metal stearates and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant (s) of HLB greater than or equal to 12, present (s) in free form in the composition is (are) chosen (s) among the glutamic acid derivatives and / or their salts, alkylpolyglycosides, sodium stearate, potassium stearate, and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least the combination of at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof and at least one alkylpolyglycoside, said acid derivative glutamic acid or its salt being in particular chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, the salts of these acids and their mixtures; and said alkylpolyglycoside being in particular cetylstearyl glucoside, especially used with cetylstearyl alcohol. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises at least mono- and / or glyceryl distearate and sodium stearate and / or potassium stearate. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic surfactant present in free form in the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant or HLB greater than or equal to 12, present in free form in the composition are present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a mascara or a foundation composition. 13. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of keratinous substances, in particular eyelashes or skin, comprising at least the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined according to any one of the claims. 1 to 12. 14. Use in a composition comprising at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, of the combination of at least (i) an HLB surfactant greater than or equal to 12, anionic or nonionic, said surfactant being present under free form in the composition, and at least (ii) a pigment coated with at least one compound as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 4, to improve the stability and / or the fineness of the emulsion and / or the dispersion of said pigments.