FR2954116A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for make-up and/or caring of keratin fibers, comprises emulsifying system free of triethanolamine stearate, pigment and behenyl alcohol, where the system comprises surfactant e.g. phosphine oxide - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (I) comprises: at least one emulsifying system free of triethanolamine stearate; at least one pigment and behenyl alcohol, and in that the value of texture measured by texture analyzer using the method of measuring the texture shown in this application, from the preparation of the composition, i.e. 24 hours after manufacture of the composition, is greater than 20 g at room temperature, where the behenyl alcohol is present at >= 1 wt.%, and emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant comprising e.g. (i) an alkyl alkali metal phosphate or phosphine oxide (a). Cosmetic composition (I) comprises: at least one emulsifying system free of triethanolamine stearate; at least one pigment and behenyl alcohol, and in that the value of texture measured by texture analyzer using the method of measuring the texture shown in this application, from the preparation of the composition, i.e. 24 hours after manufacture of the composition, is greater than 20 g at room temperature, where the behenyl alcohol is present at >= 1 wt.%; and emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant comprising (i) an alkyl alkali metal phosphate or phosphine oxide of formula ((RO) nP=O-(OM) m) (a), (ii) a polyethoxylated alcohol of formula (R1a-(OCH 2CH 2) p-OH) (b) such as steareth-20 and steareth-2, (iii) glutamic acid salt of formula (R11-CONH-C(COOM)-C 2H 4-COO-M1a) (c), and (iv) an alkyl glucoside obtained by condensation of glucose and 8-22C fatty alcohols such as a mixture of cetyl and stearyl, preferably cetylstearyl. R : 8-22C alkyl such as cetyl; n : 1-3, preferably 1; m : 0-2, preferably 2, where m + n is 3; M : H, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, such as sodium or potassium; R1a : 1-30C alkyl, preferably CH 3-(CH 2) 17-; p : 1-30, preferably 2-20; R11 : 8-22C alkyl such as stearyl; and M1a : alkali metal or alkaline earth metal. An independent claim is included for device for packaging and application comprising a container containing a composition; and an applicator configured to apply the composition on the keratin material, particularly eyelashes or eyebrows, where the applicator comprises application elements, such as hair or teeth, with a hardness of between 20 Shore A and 40 Shore D.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care of keratin fibers, comprising an emulsifying system free of triethanolamine stearate, which have loading properties. The texture of such compositions, and in particular the stability of the texture over time, is decisive for the users. Indeed, it has been observed in the field of mascaras, including mascaras so-called "chargeants", and more particularly mascaras comprising cetyl alcohol as a thickening agent, that the evolution of the texture of these The latter is detrimental to the quality of makeup as they are used. In other words, during their storage and after opening their packaging, the composition "ages" and tends to see its texture increase to the detriment of the application qualities currently sought, namely an easy deposit of product on the eyelashes. This evolution of the texture can give mascaras adhering less and depositing less. However, it is also known that the material deposited on the keratin fibers or filler depends, in addition to its thick texture, on the hardness of the applicator, which may in particular be a brush. More precisely, the more flexible an applicator, the more it is possible to deposit material. However, because of the increase in the texture of the compositions over time, it is often necessary to use applicators comprising application elements such as bristles or harder teeth in order to counteract this increase in texture. Indeed, when the applicator / texture pair of the composition is not adequate, it happens that we meet the defect known as the "fir brush", where the bristles of the applicator, in this case the brush, lie down during the passage of the wiper and do not straighten because they do not have sufficient rigidity.

Therefore, before placing on the market, a study is generally made on the adequacy between the texture of the composition and the hardness of the applicator both from the preparation of the composition once the latter has aged . Because of the constraint explained above, applicators with a hardness greater than that theoretically intended to obtain the desired load are then chosen, to the detriment of more flexible applicators, yet better adapted in terms of application. Thus, there is a need for cosmetic compositions, and in particular for loading mascaras, offering a texture at the end of the relatively large production, which must not be minimized because of the anticipation of the evolution of the texture. over time, mentioned above, to use more flexible applicators than those commonly used for equivalent compositions not in accordance with the present invention. The inventors have demonstrated the advantages associated with the use of behenyl alcohol, in particular as a thickening agent, and in particular as a total or partial replacement of cetyl alcohol commonly used for these same purposes, to overcome the disadvantages. supra. The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers comprising at least one emulsifying system free of triethanolamine stearate, characterized in that it contains behenic alcohol, and in that the texture value measured by texturometry from the preparation of said composition, namely 24 hours after manufacture of the composition, is greater than 20 g at ambient temperature. The texturometry measuring method is advantageously that described in the description below. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is the use of behenyl alcohol, especially as a thickening agent, in a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin fibers, and comprising at least one system emulsifier free of triethanolamine stearate, to improve the stability of the texture of said composition. According to yet another aspect, the subject of the present invention is also a packaging and application assembly comprising a receptacle containing a composition as defined above and an applicator configured to apply said composition to a keratinous material, and in particular to keratinous fibers. , Such as eyelashes or eyebrows, said applicator comprising applicator elements, such as bristles or teeth, having a hardness of between 20 Shore A and 40 Shore D.

According to another aspect, the subject of the present invention is also a method of coating, and in particular makeup and / or care, keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising a step of applying a composition such as than previously defined on said keratinous fibers. METHOD OF MEASURING THE TEXTURE The texture of the mascaras is measured according to the following protocol:

The measuring apparatus is a TA-XT2 sold by the company Rhéo, equipped with a measuring cell force of 5 kgs and a cylindrical mobile 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) diameter Delrin . The mascara is thermostated at 20 ° C. Then, it is placed in excess in a container with a diameter of 60 mm and a depth of 22 mm using a metal spatula. The product is spread to avoid any air pocket but without crushing it so as not to destructure it. The container is then stripped with a spatula so as to have the most regular surface possible. The container is then covered with a watch glass so as to limit the evaporation of solvents present in the formula. The options selected for this measurement method are as follows: Test mode: Compression measurement Trigger force: 2.0 g 20 Pre-speed: 2.0 mm / s Test speed 1.0 mm / s Temperature 20 ° C +/- 1 ° C Penetration distance 5 mm Three successive measurements are made at points at least 12 mm apart, at least 10 mm from the edge of the container. The container is held during the measurement. The value used is the average of the maxima obtained for each measurement.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the texture, measured by texturometry, starting from the preparation of the composition, namely at To, is greater than or equal to 30 g, or even 60 g or even 70 g. According to another embodiment, the texture, measured by texturometry, after a period of 60 days at 45 ° C is less than or equal to 100 g, or even 90 g. According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the texture variation measured by texturometry in a period of 60 days at 45 ° C from the preparation of said composition, namely 24 hours after manufacture of the composition, is less than 100%, the variation texture being defined by: T oj-To1 00 T0 where Tho is the texturometry measurement at 60 days, and To is the measurement of texturometry made 24 hours after manufacture of the preparation of the composition. Still according to this embodiment, and according to a preferred variant, the texture variation measured by texturometry in a period of 60 days at 45 ° C from the preparation of said composition is less than 70%, or even 60%, even at 50% for example at 20%, 10% or even 5%.

ALCOHOL BEHENIOUE Behenic alcohol, otherwise called docosanol is a fatty alcohol in C22. Cetyl alcohol is commonly used to thicken emulsion-type cosmetic compositions in which the surfactant system is free of triethanolamine stearate, in particular for "loading" mascaras compositions. It is a low HLB co-surfactant commonly used in combination with a high HLB surfactant such as potassium cetyl phosphate and / or steareth-20. It has been observed that emulsion-type cosmetic compositions comprising such a surfactant system tend to have their texture change over time, and more specifically to increase in an embarrassing manner with regard to the applicability of the composition to the areas to be made up. and / or to treat.

The total or partial replacement of cetyl alcohol in this type of cosmetic compositions is specifically aimed at within the scope of the present invention. Behenic alcohol may be present in a content greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight, and more particularly 1% by weight, or even 2% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

Typically, the behenic alcohol is present in a content ranging from 0.3% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.7 to 7%, or even from 1% to 6% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EMULSIFIER SYSTEM The composition according to the invention is free of triethanolamine stearate. In other words, it contains less than 1% by weight of triethanolamine stearate relative to the total weight of the composition, better less than 0.1% by weight. According to the invention, an emulsifying system suitably selected for obtaining a wax-in-water or oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. In particular, the emulsifier system may comprise at least one emulsifying agent having at 25 ° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. These emulsifiers may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or polymeric surfactants. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: a) nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture. There may be mentioned in particular: esters and ethers of oses such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, such as Montanov 68 from Seppic; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8-C24 and preferably of C12-C1g alcohol), such as oxyethylenated ether; oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylenated ether of oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols having 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12_15 Pareth-7"), especially marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid esters, and preferably C16-C22) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold especially under the name MYRJ 52P® by the ICI UNIQUEMA, or the PEG-30 glyceryl st earate especially marketed under the name TAGAT S® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT; Fatty acid esters (in particular of C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups); such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate especially sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glycerol cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, the product TAGAT L® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glycerol laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT I® from the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, -the esters of fatty acid (in particular of acid C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups), such as polysorbate 20 sold in particular under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold especially under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA, - dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by Dow Corning, - dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 100® and 201® from FINTEX), copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO / PO polycondensates, and mixtures thereof. The EO / PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have for example the following chemical structure: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) (O-CH (CH 3) -CH 2) b- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) OH, in which a is from 2 to 120 and b is from 1 to 100. The EO / PO polycondensate preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and better still ranging from 2000 to 13000. Advantageously, said EO / PO polycondensate has a cloud temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard. As polycondensate EO / PO that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the trade names SYNPERONIC® such as SYNPERONIC PE / L44®. and SYNPERONIC PE / F127® by ICI. b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C, optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than 8 at 25 ° C as mentioned above; mention may be made in particular of: ose esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which can contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8-C24 and preferably of C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylenated ether; stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-2"); esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24, and preferably of C16-C22) and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the formula TEGIN M® denomination by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate; lecithins, such as soy lecithins (such as Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer); the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning.

c) anionic surfactants such as: salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof; Phosphoric esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from the company CRODA) or potassium monopotassium or potassium cetyl phosphate phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan); sulphosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulphosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulphosuccinate"; Alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate; isethionates; acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures; - soy derivatives such as potassium soyate; citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets by Degussa); proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline 30 (Sepicalm VG Seppic), or the Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate mixture, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitoyl acid and Palmitoyl proline (Seppic Sepifeel One); lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB); sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of sarcosine stearoyl and Myristoyl sarcosine 75/25 (Croda's Crodasin SM); sulfonates, such as sodium C14-17 alkyl seculphonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant); glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto). The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as betaines or N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide. or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. The emulsifier that can be used can also be a polymeric surfactant, especially a thermogelling polymer. According to a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant chosen from: i) an alkali metal alkyl phosphate or phosphine oxide of formula (RO) ,, P = O- (OM) m with R representing a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl group such as cetyl, n being 1, 2 or 3 and m being 0, 1 or 2, with m + n being 3 and M representing an atom of hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferentially n = 1 and m = 2, and M is an alkali metal, such as sodium or potassium, ii) a polyethoxylated alcohol of formula R '- (OCH2CH2) p -OH with R 'representing a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl and particularly represents CH3- (CH2) 17- and p representing an integer inclusive of between 1 and 30, preferably between 2 and 20; such as steareth-20 and steareth-2, iii) a glutamic acid salt of formula R-CONH-C (COO-M) -C 2 H 4 -COO-M 'with R representing a linear or branched alkyl group. C8-C22 such as stearyl and M 'representing an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, and iv) an alkyl glucoside obtained by condensation of glucose and C8-C22 linear or branched fatty alcohols such as a cetyl and stearic mixture named cetylstearyl. As an example of a surfactant according to item (iii) above, mention may be made of sodium stearyl glutamate and, as a surfactant according to item (iv) above, mention may be made of cetylstearyl glucoside.

According to an even more particular embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises at least one of these two surfactants or their mixture. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsifying system comprises at least one emulsifying agent chosen from (i) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups) of alcohols fatty (in particular C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18) such as oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-2"); (ii) esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24, and preferably of C16-C22) and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT; (iii) phosphoric acid esters and their alkali metal salts such as potassium cetyl phosphate (Givaudan Amphisol K) and / or (iv) fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid), and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), such as polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as TAGAT® S product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and (v) their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises at least one phosphated surfactant, especially potassium cetyl phosphate. According to one particular embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises at least one emulsifying agent chosen from steareth-2, glyceryl stearate, polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, potassium cetyl phosphate or their mixtures.

According to another embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises an HLB surfactant greater than 8 in combination with an HLB surfactant of less than 8. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant of HLB less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C, said surfactants being advantageously selected from the surfactants mentioned above. According to one embodiment, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifier chosen from potassium cetyl phosphate, steareth-2, steareth-20 and their mixture. Advantageously, it is a mixture of potassium cetyl phosphate and steareth-2. The composition according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of emulsifying agent, relative to the total weight of said composition, better still from 1 to 15% by weight and better still from 2 to 13% by weight.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying agent chosen from fatty acid and polyol esters, in particular glyceryl stearate, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, especially the PEG-30 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Co-surfactants According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one co-surfactant other than behenic alcohol. The co-surfactants may especially be chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. By fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms is meant any pure fatty alcohol, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used in combination with the emulsifying agent (s) of the emulsifying system according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or natural, for example alcohols from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow ...). Of course, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coco (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or diol or cholesterol type compounds. It is preferable to use a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 21 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). , erucic, arachidylic and mixtures thereof. Such fatty alcohols are in particular marketed under the name NAFOL by the company SASOL. Among the co-surfactants that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of glyceryl mono- and / or distearate.

The co-surfactant (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM The compositions according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the keratin fibers of human beings and of appearance, odor and to touch pleasant. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase and carried out directly or indirectly.

They may be simple emulsions obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or emulsion of multiple emulsion type.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a wax-in-water or oil-in-water emulsion. The compositions of the invention may be of liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, or of a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of cream or gel type.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase, which forms the continuous phase.

By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter. MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements. The aqueous phase comprises water and / or at least one water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 60% by weight.

Grime phase The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase. This fatty phase may comprise at least one wax, a pasty fatty substance, an oil or a mixture thereof. The fatty phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably 15% to 40% by weight.

Waxes The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one wax or a mixture of waxes. These waxes can be solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The compositions according to the invention, such as mascaras, may comprise one or more waxes, in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 2% to 45% by weight. better from 15% to 40% by weight. According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may especially be in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, in other words comprise a dispersion of a wax or mixture of waxes in a continuous aqueous phase. The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 120 ° C, with the exception of fatty alcohols, as described above, including fatty alcohols having 10 to 30 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 22 carbon atoms. By bringing the wax to the liquid state (fusion), it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 45 ° C., and in particular greater than 55 ° C.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from 0 ° C to 120 ° C, to the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute . During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or otherwise at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The wax may also have a hardness of from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax 30 + 20 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax. In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. In particular, these are substituted linear polysiloxanes consisting essentially of (end groups apart) of units of formulas II and III, in the respective molar proportions m and n:

and wherein: each R substituent is defined as above, each R 'independently represents optionally unsaturated (linear or branched) alkyl having 6-30 carbon atoms, or a group -XR ", each X being independently: - O-, - (CH2) aO-CO-, - (CH2) b-CO-O-, a and b independently represent numbers ranging from 0 to 6, and each R "independently represents an optionally unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms; m is a number ranging from 0 to 400 and in particular from 0 to 100; n is a number ranging from 1 to 200, and in particular from 1 to 100, the sum (m + n) being less than 400, and in particular less than or equal to 100. These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to the known methods. commercial silicones of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 98 00, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC). The silicone waxes that can be used can also be chosen from the following compounds of formula (IV): R 1 -Si (CH 3) 2 -O- [Si (R) 2 -O] -Z-Si (CH 3) 2 -R 2 ( IV) wherein: R is defined as above, R1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group of the formula: (C, I 2 R 2 represents an alkyl group of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of formula: a and b representing a number from 0 to 6, R "being an alkyl having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and z is a number ranging from 1 to 100.

Among the silicone waxes of formula (IV), there may be mentioned in particular alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20 -C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular the (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, called sticky wax, that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 Ns and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5. MPa. The use of a sticky wax may in particular make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to the eyelashes, having good grip on the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth, homogeneous and thickening makeup . The tacky wax used may in particular have a tack ranging from 0.7 Ns to 30 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 1 Ns, in particular ranging from 1 Ns to 20 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 2 Ns, in particular ranging from 2 Ns at 10 Ns, and in particular ranging from 2N.s to 5Ns.

The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name "TA-TX2i" By the company RHEO, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer mobile forming an angle of 45 °. The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before measuring. tights. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a depth of penetration of 2 mm. When the mobile penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value 0. The pantyhose corresponds to the integral of the force vs. time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the sticky is expressed in N.s. The tacky wax that can be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even from 0 to 1 MPa at 2.5 MPa. The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.

As sticky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, may be used. of alkyl in Czo-C40. Such a wax is sold, for example, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

The waxes mentioned above generally have an initial melting point below 45 ° C. The wax (es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The term "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size, expressed as the average "effective" diameter by volume D [4.3], of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.

Microdispersions of wax are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are especially described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32. In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally a portion of the water, and then gradually adding hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final obtaining of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.

The microdispersions of wax can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, the high-pressure homogenizer, the turbines. The particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm). These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise, in a minor proportion, oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active agent.

Paste compounds The compositions according to the invention, in particular the mascara-type compositions may further comprise at least one pasty compound. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, more preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

The pasty compound may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, silicone compounds polymers or nonpolymers such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular - olefin homopolymers, olefin copolymers, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group; homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups; the homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups, the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. The pasty compound may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.

When the pasty compound is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as short chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate. Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or 0E units) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; the phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C16-4o alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid; C 18-409 such as tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 20 dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil. Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction converting a primary aliphatic alcohol to its dimer alcohol (3-alkylated with loss of one equivalent of water.) The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid and undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid , eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof Aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched. I-hydroxylated hydroxyl are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and preferably from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of polyhydric aliphatic saturated monohydroxy carboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of C 2 to C 16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof. The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called monoisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called oil diisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate , and their mixtures. Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, the wax of orange as, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410), butter of 30 murumuru (murumuru butter of the company Beraca Sabara), butter of shea, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as, for example, the company's Lipex 302 Aarhuskarlshamn. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises shea butter.

The pasty compound (s) may be present in a greater amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one or more oils or organic solvents.

Oils or Organic Solvents By "oil or organic solvent", as used herein, is meant a non-aqueous body which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of 15 Hg). The oil may be chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. The oil or oils may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purpose of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the keratinous fibers in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.degree. , 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratinous fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

Volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil. This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon-based. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 70% by weight. and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight, or even 5% to 50% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s). By "one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile branched alkane (s) oil (s)". As hydrocarbon-based volatile oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) at C 8 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbonaceous volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane (s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)". A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). By "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention, is meant a linear cosmetic alkane , capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, that is to say 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature , having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). Still more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg).

The rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described herein. -after. 20 g of hydrocarbon solvent are introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m 3 regulated in temperature (25 ° C.) and in hygrometry (relative humidity 50%). volatile.

The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the hydrocarbon solvent. volatile, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.

The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals.

The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the amount of evaporated product (in mg / cm 2) as a function of time (in minutes).

Then we calculate the evaporation rate that corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa. at 6000 Pa.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C.).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure of from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, "volatile linear alkanes" Suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. In particular, the flash point is measured according to ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane that is suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature. ambient (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 14C of the carbon (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14C may be present in a ratio 14C / 12C greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10.15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and better still greater than or equal to 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 14C / 12C is from 6.10-13 to 1.2.10-12.

The quantity of isotopes 14C in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry (Accelerator Mass Spectrometry).

Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

By way of example of alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C 11) and n-tridecane (C 13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

The volatile linear alkane alone can be used.

Alternatively, or alternatively, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2.

According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 is used. mention may in particular be made of mixtures of linear volatile alkanes C 10 / C 11, C 11 / C 12 or C 12 / C 13.

According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 is used. mention may in particular be made of C10 / C12 or C12 / C14 volatile linear alkane mixtures for an even number of carbon atoms and the Cl / C13 mixture for an odd carbon number n.

According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of carbon atoms, is used. C11 / C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes.

Other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 7 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

According to another embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, Cn volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of linear Cn + volatile alkane x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of linear volatile alkane to Cl (n-undecane), from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059.

According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL. According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of nodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent compatible with a cosmetic use.

By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free from silicone oil.

As silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Cyclic volatile polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil.

By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

As fluorinated volatile oil, there may be mentioned nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, and physostearyl isostearate. and lauroyl / octyldodecylglutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and, in particular, from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower, butter oil. shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, squash seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Palm Oil, Blackcurrant Seed Oil, Kiwi Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Oil Pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1000R2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, stearate octyl, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates alcohols or polyalcohols, as the propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl-2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof , C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DDDA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical. and described in the application US 2004-175338, the copolymers of diol dimer and dimer diacid and their esters, such as dimeric copolymers dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, alcohol isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linol ethylene, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS, - the oils of mass wherein the molar mass has, in particular, a molar mass of from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, particularly from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol. mol, and more particularly, from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxylated esters, esters C24-C28 branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids, silicone oils, vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. For example, a high molecular weight oil can be chosen from: a) lipophilic polymers, such as: polybutylenes, such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molecular weight MM = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H -300 (MM = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MM = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, polyisobutylenes, for example hydrogenated, such as PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MM = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MM = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MM = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as: PURESYN 10 (MM = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MM = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone , such as: the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON VU216 marketed or manufactured by ISP (MM = 7300 g) mol), and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as copolymers of C2-C30 alkene, such as C3-C22, and combinations thereof, may be used. Examples of PVP copolymers that may be used in the invention include PVP / vinyl laurate, PVP / vinyl stearate, PVP / butylated, PVP / hexadecene, PVP / triacontene or PVP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, b) esters, such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), hydroxylated esters, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MM = 965 g / mol), aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids, such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,491,927 and pentaerythritol esters, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MM = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MM = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tri-2-decyltetradecanoate e (MM = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MM = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl -2 tetraisostearate (MM = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MM = 1538 g / mol), diol dimer esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters, and dimer diol and diacid esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7 Sold by NipPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, c) silicone oils, such as phenyl silicones such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MM = 9000 g / mol). Other non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures of oils a) and / or b) and / or c). The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise any ingredient conventionally used in the fields concerned and more particularly in the field of mascaras and / or nail polishes, such as, for example, pigments or pearlescent agents, film-forming polymers, gelling agents , fillers and / or fibers.

Pigments By "pigments" is meant white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso compounds, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone. The organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanine, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, and blue pigments codified in the formula. Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085 , 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as they are These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments on the core. The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45,380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45,370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45,410), D & C Orange 10 (IC 45,425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45,430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Green (CI 61,570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42,053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42,090). As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1). The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, blue ultramarine, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS. The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 μm.

Film-forming Polymers Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures. By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The free-radical type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers. As the acid-group-bearing monomer, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid, the esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called ( meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30, preferably C 1 -C 20, alkyl, (meth) acrylates, in particular C 6 aryl, C1o, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular hydroxy (C2-C6) alkyl radicals. Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, methacrylate. Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates. According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide. The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrenic monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof. The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen. The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium NH4 + ion or a metal ion, such as for example an Na +, Li +, K +, Mg2 +, Cap + ion. , Cui +, Fe2 +, Fe- '. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO3M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid. The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may then be present in the continuous aqueous phase of an emulsion according to the invention. According to another variant, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described below (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils being selected from the oils mentioned below. As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetraall yloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 2% divinyl benzene. Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of vinyl polylaurate. , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol. The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000. Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to to 22 carbon atoms or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. As examples of liposoluble homopolymers, there may be mentioned in particular: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates being capable of being crosslinked by means of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol .

According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer polyvinylaurate.

Liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, for example ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate. Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit. As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, and by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US Pat. No. 5,162,410. silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in WO 2004/073626.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, both groups being located on grafts or branches. According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being interconnected by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other. Such polymers are described, for example, in EP 1 411 069 or WO 04/028488. The film-forming polymer may also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A can be used. -523® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trade name JONCRYL® by JOHNSON POLYMER or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the denominations Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, the Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure 861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure 2060® by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85® by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511® by the company HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the trade name Eastman AQ® by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomère PAM® from Chimex and mixtures thereof. Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may be mentioned are acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as Mexomere PAP® from Chimex, and dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase. , the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in WO 04/055081. A composition according to the invention may also further comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

Gelling agents A composition of the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agent. As hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents, mention may be made of: the homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names "VERSICOL F" or "VERSICOL K" by the company ALLIED COLLOID, "UTRAHOLD 8" by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names "RETEN" by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN No. 7" by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by Henkel, polyacrylic acid / acrylate copolymers, PEMULEN-type alkyl, - AMPS® (polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by N / A CLARIANT - AMPS® / acrylamide copolymers of SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold by the company SEPPIC, and - polyoxyethylenated AMPS® / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise) and mixtures thereof. As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; associative polyurethanes such as the C16-0E120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name SER AD FX1100, urethane function molecule and the weight average molecular weight of 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit, the rheolate 205 with a urea function sold by RHEOX or else Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% by dry matter in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD fx1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from Servo Delden, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by Rheox. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rhom & Haas or Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, the original polymers. natural, optionally modified, such as: - Arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; Deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Some of the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above may also act as water-soluble gelling agents. The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0, 5 to 15% by weight.

Charges The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers may be inorganic or organic in any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Talc, mica, silica, silica surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon e) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene may be mentioned. tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon e), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloric acid. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular thermally expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate or copolymer of acrylonitrile homopolymer, for example those sold respectively under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel®007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL. The fillers may represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fibers The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fiber, making it possible in particular, in the case of implementing a composition of the invention in the form of mascara, to obtain an improvement in the lengthening effect.

By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is greater than D, and preferably much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. . In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and more preferably from 5 to 150.

The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or full. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their cross section may be in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and better still from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or titer of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in gram for 9 km of yarn. Preferably, the fibers according to the invention have a title chosen in the range from 0.01 to 10 denier, preferably from 0.1 to 2 denier and better still from 0.3 to 0.7 denier. The fibers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they can be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or uncoated, colored or unstained. As fibers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (nylon) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers, such as those sold under the names KERMEL®, KERMEL TECH® by the company RHODIA or poly- (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar® by the company DuPont de Nemours. The fibers may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise any cosmetic active agent such as the active ingredients chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, thickeners, oligoids elements, softeners, sequestering agents, alkalinizing or acidifying agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, coalescing agents, plasticizers, vitamins, especially solar filters, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .

PACKAGING The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container defining at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closure element.

Closing element The closing element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap to the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.

Container The container may be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a bag or a case. The container may be associated with an applicator as detailed below, in particular in the form of a brush. The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538. The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing.

Alternatively, the coupling between the closure member and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, or clamping. By "snapping" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy). The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask. The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls 10 so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. container. The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and, optionally, the rod which can be secured to it. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

Applicator The applicator can take different forms. It may take the form of a brush comprising a hair arrangement held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Patent 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a brush. a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

The composition according to the present invention is particularly advantageous when used with a brush-type applicator comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted or injected-type wire, namely having a core and teeth in one piece. Indeed, as explained above, applicators of this type, and more particularly such applicators having the property of being flexible, can be adapted for the application of the compositions according to the present invention, over time, without the observation of the disadvantages reported above. In the case of brushes, the flexibility results from different parameters that may be related to the nature of the bristles, their section, their diameter, their length and their density, among others. In the context of the present invention, the application elements and more particularly the "soft" bristles, are those which have a limited flexural strength, while the "hard" application elements are defined as those having a limited substantially greater flexural strength.

By way of illustration and all things being equal, a short application element is harder than a long application element and a thick application element is harder than a thinner application element. In addition, the hollow application elements are more flexible than the solid application elements. In general, there is for the application elements a diameter below which they are considered flexible and above which they are considered hard. For example, in the case of bristles formed of nylon or polyester fibers, the relatively soft bristles have a diameter of less than 10 hundredths of a millimeter, whereas the relatively stiff bristles have a diameter greater than 10 hundredths of a millimeter and generally less than 30 hundredths of a millimeter.

For example, the bristles or teeth may be made of more or less flexible materials. The hardness of these materials can be compared by shore hardness values. The hairs can be natural or synthetic. They can be made by extrusion of a plastic material, such as PE, PA, in particular PA6, PA6 / 6, PA6 / 10 or PA6 / 12, HYTEL®, PEBAX®, silicone, PU, this list not being limiting . Such application elements may for example have a hardness of between 20 Shore A and 40 Shore D.

It is possible to use bristles of circular cross section or other than circular. For example, it is possible to use bristles of circular cross section with a diameter of between 50 and 300 hundredths of a millimeter.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes, also called "mascara". It may be a make-up composition, a base coat cosmetic composition also called "base-coat", a composition to be applied to a base coat cosmetic composition, also called "top-coat" ".

Mascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.

The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field. The invention is further illustrated in the following examples which are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. EXAMPLES In the examples, percentages by weight are expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples 1 and 2: Mascaras with two different fatty alcohols Example 1 Example 2 Ingredients% by weight% by weight beeswax (1) 4.4 4.4 carnauba wax (2) 3.5 3.5 paraffin wax (3) 13.9 13.9 cetyl alcohol 4 0 behenic alcohol 0 4 iron oxide black 7.14 7.14 gum arabic 0.63 0.63 potassium cetyl phosphate (4) 7 7 hydroxyethyl cellulose (s) 0 0.75 acrylate copolymer by weight of raw material (6) 5 preservatives & active 4.36 4.36 deionized water qs Qs TOTAL 100 100 (1) WHITE BEESWAX SP 453P marketed by STRAHL & PITSCH (2) CARNAUBA WAX SP 63 marketed by STRAHL & PITSCH (3) CERAFINE 56/58 PASTILLES marketed by BAERLOCHER (4) AMPHISOL K (0452130) marketed by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS

(5) CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H marketed by AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) (6) DAITOSOL 5000 AD marketed by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) After manufacture, these mascaras are placed in accelerated aging condition at 45 ° C. The texturometry is measured according to the protocol described above.

It is observed that the formulation comprising behenic alcohol has a texturometry value greater than 50 g, which ensures the property of being well chargeable. Its texturometry does not need to be lowered to compensate for the increase in texturometry over time. On the other hand, the relative change in penetrometry is lowest in the formula comprising behenic alcohol. Example 1 Example 2 Beetyl alcohol Beetene alcohol Penetration To 3 8 75 (g) Penetration 102 78 after 60j at 45 ° C (g) Relative evolution + 268% + 4% The formula of Example 2 thickener relatively less than the formula of Example 1 may be used with a softer mascara brush than the formula of Example 1. This brush may be, for example, 9 mm in diameter with 340 polyester elastomer bristles of 13/100 diameter. After 60 days in accelerated aging at 45 ° C., the quality of the makeup obtained by using the formula of Example 2 is still satisfactory with the brush described above. In particular, the phenomenon of "fir tree" or hair coating after aging for 2 months at 45 ° C is not visible when this brush is immersed in Example 2 (behenic alcohol). By cons, the phenomenon of "fir" is seen when the same brush is immersed in Example 1 (cetyl alcohol) after 2 months at 45 ° C.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers comprising at least one emulsifying system free of triethanolamine stearate, characterized in that it contains behenic alcohol, and in that the texture value measured by texturometry at from the preparation of said composition, namely 24 hours after the manufacture of the composition, is greater than 20 g at room temperature. 2. Cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that the texture value measured by texturometry from the preparation of said composition, namely 24 hours after the manufacture of the composition. is greater than 30 g at room temperature, or even 60 g, or even 70 g. 3. Cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the texture value measured by texturometry at the end of a period of 60 days at 45 ° C is lower. or equal to 100 g or even 90 g. 4. Cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of keratinous fibers according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the texture variation measured by texturometry in a period of 60 days at 45 ° C from the preparation of said composition, namely 24 hours after the manufacture of the composition, is less than 100%, the texture variation being defined by: Ti-T0-100 T0 where T60i is the texturometry measurement at 60 days, and T0 is the texturometry measurement 24 hours after manufacture of the composition. 5. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the texture variation measured by texturometry in a period of 60 days at 45 ° C from the preparation of said composition is less than 70%, or even 60% or at 50%, for example at 20%, 10%, or 5% and more particularly in a content ranging from 0.3 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 10% by weight and for example from 0, 7 to 7%, or even 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a continuous aqueous phase. 7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the behenic alcohol is present in a content greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight, and more particularly at 1% by weight, or even 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant selected from: i) an alkali metal alkyl phosphate or phosphine oxide of formula (RO) n P = O - (OM) m with R representing a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl group such as cetyl, n being 1, 2 or 3 and m being 0, 1 or 2, with m + n being equal to 3 and M representing a hydrogen atom or an alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferentially n = 1 and m = 2, and M is an alkali metal, such as sodium or potassium, ii) a polyethoxylated alcohol of formula R '- (OCH2CH2) p -OH with R' representing a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl and particularly represents CH3- (CH2) 17- and p representing an integer inclusive of between 1 and 30, preferably between 2 and 20; such as steareth-20 and steareth-2, iii) a glutamic acid salt of formula R-CONH-C (COO-M) -C 2 H 4 -COO-M 'with R representing a linear or branched alkyl group. C8-C22 such as stearyl and M 'representing an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, and iv) an alkyl glucoside obtained by condensation of glucose and C8-C22 linear or branched fatty alcohols such as a cetyl and stearic mixture named cetylstearyl. 9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant agent selected from potassium cetyl phosphate, steareth-2, steareth-20 and their mixture. 10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises at least one surfactant selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetylstearyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises an HLB surfactant greater than 8 in combination with an HLB surfactant of less than 8. 12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one lipophilic structuring agent such as waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof. 13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a pigment. 14. A packaging and application assembly comprising a container containing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and an applicator configured to apply said composition to a keratinous material, and in particular to keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, said applicator comprising application elements, such as bristles or teeth, having a hardness of between 20 Shore A and 40 Shore D. 15. A process for coating keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising a step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to said keratinous fibers.