FR2881642A1 - Keratinous fiber coating composition, useful to obtain make-up filler for care or make-up of eyebrow and lashes and to obtain a smooth and homogeneous deposit, comprises fatty phase comprising fatty alcohol and wax - Google Patents

Abstract

Keratinous fiber coating composition (A) comprises a fatty phase (I) comprising a 10-30 carbon fatty alcohol (Ia) and wax (Ib) (at least 5%) in a medium (II), where (I) have hardness of = 6 MPa.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of

  coating of keratinous fibers comprising a wax and a fatty alcohol.

  The composition according to the invention may be a make-up composition, also called mascara, a makeup base for keratinous fibers or a base-coat, a composition to be applied to a make-up, also known as a topcoat, or even a fiber treatment composition. keratin.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a non-rinsed composition.

  More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a mascara.

  By mascara is meant a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be a makeup composition of the eyelashes, a makeup base of the eyelashes, a composition to be applied to a mascara, also called top coat, or else a composition for cosmetic care of the eyelashes. Mascara is especially intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.

  The makeup compositions for the eyelashes generally consist of a wax or mixture of waxes dispersed with at least one surfactant in an aqueous phase containing, moreover, polymers and pigments.

  It is generally through the qualitative and quantitative choice of waxes and polymers that the application specificities sought for makeup compositions, such as, for example, their fluidity, their covering power and / or their curling power, are adjusted. Thus, it is possible to produce various compositions which, applied in particular to the eyelashes, induce various effects such as elongation, bending and / or thickening (loading effect).

  The present invention aims more particularly to provide a composition useful for making a thick makeup of keratinous fibers and in particular eyelashes, said still makeup charging. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "keratin fibers" covers the hair, eyelashes and eyebrows and also extends to synthetic hairpieces and false eyelashes.

  It is known from the prior art that the higher the solids content (provided in part by a fatty phase consisting of, for example, one or more waxes or one or more lipophilic polymers) in a composition will increase, the more the deposit material on the eyelash will be important and therefore the result will be volumizing.

  Fatty Alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 Nevertheless, the increase in the solids content in a composition, such as an emulsion or dispersion, leads to an increase in the consistency of the product obtained and therefore an application to the eyelashes that is delicate and difficult because the product is thick, viscous, it is difficult to deposit, heterogeneously and in packets and the makeup thus obtained has a grainy appearance, not smooth; the makeup is not homogeneous and has an unsightly appearance.

  Another way to increase the solids content is to incorporate solid particles such as fillers or pigments, but the increase in consistency also limits the maximum percentage of solids, and the use of solid particles in large quantities does not increase. does not promote homogeneous and smooth deposition because of not only the consistency but also the size of the particles introduced which gives a granular and non-smooth appearance to the deposit.

  This is usually the case of so-called volumizing mascaras that are difficult to apply and give a heterogeneous makeup.

  It is therefore difficult to obtain a makeup composition for keratin fibers, comprising a high solids content and therefore a satisfactory volumizing effect, having easy application and homogeneous deposition.

  Unexpectedly, it has thus been found that it was possible to prepare compositions which make it possible to thicken the keratinous fibers and to deposit a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers by using, in these compositions, a fatty phase. comprising a wax and a fatty alcohol.

  The invention thus has, according to one of its aspects, a composition for coating keratinous fibers comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium characterized in that it comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 5% of at least one wax, the fatty phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.

  The present invention also relates to a process for the care or makeup of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 It also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention to obtain makeup charging keratinous fibers including eyelashes and eyebrows and / or a smooth and uniform deposit on said fibers.

  The subject of the present invention is also the use, in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, of a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 5% by weight. less a wax, the fatty phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa, to obtain makeup charging keratinous fibers including eyelashes and eyebrows and a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers.

  The subject of the invention is also the use of the combination, in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, of a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, of at least one wax, and at least one cellulosic polymer, the fatty phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa, to obtain makeup charging keratinous fibers including eyelashes and eyebrows and a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers.

  For the purposes of the present invention, it is meant by the term charging the concept of a thick and volumizing make-up of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes.

  The compositions according to the invention advantageously have a solids content greater than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 42% by weight, better still, greater than or equal to 45% and even better than or equal to 47%. relative to the total weight of the composition, up to 60% by weight.

  The dry matter content, that is to say the non-volatile matter content, can be measured in various ways, for example oven drying methods, drying methods by exposure to infrared radiation as well as than the chemical methods by Karl Fischer water titration.

  Preferably, the amount of dry matter, commonly called solids content of the compositions according to the invention, is measured by heating the sample with infrared rays of 2 μm to 3.5 μm wavelength. The substances contained in said compositions which have a high vapor pressure, evaporate under the effect of this radiation. The measurement of the loss of weight of the sample makes it possible to determine the dry extract of the composition. These measurements are carried out using a Mettler LP16 commercial infrared desiccator. This technique is perfectly described in the documentation of the device supplied by Mettler.

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 The measurement protocol is as follows: About 1 g of the composition is spread on a metal cup. This, after introduction into the desiccator, is subjected to a temperature of 120 C for one hour. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to the initial mass and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to the mass after exposure to radiation, are measured using a precision balance.

  The dry matter content is calculated as follows: Dry extract = 100 x (dry mass / wet mass).

  Fat phase For the purposes of the invention, the term "fatty phase" is intended to mean a phase composed of one or more nonaqueous bodies which are liquid or solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), generally compatible with one another, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, oils, oils thickened by a structuring agent and mixtures thereof. The surfactants as described below are not part of the fatty phase.

  The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and at least one wax in a content of greater than or equal to 5% and has a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa.

  The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 1 mm / s, and penetrating the fat phase at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

  The measurement protocol is as follows: The fatty phase is heated to a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax (es) it comprises + 20 ° C. The molten fatty phase is cast in a 30 mm container. diameter and 20 mm deep and is recrystallized at room temperature (25 C) for 24 hours, then it is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 C before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the fat phase.

  The fatty phase advantageously has a hardness ranging from 0.5 to 6 MPa, preferably from 0.7 to 4 MPa and better still from 0.8 to 3 MPa.

  The fatty phase may represent from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 50% and better still from 15% to 40% by weight.

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 Fatty alcohol By fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, means any pure fatty alcohol, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

  Preferably, a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, is used.

  Mention may in particular be made, as fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition, of lauryl, myristic, cetyl, stearyl, oleic, cetearyl (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol and their mixtures.

  Such fatty alcohols are in particular marketed under the name NAFOL by the company SASOL.

  The fatty alcohol may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 35% and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Wax

  The composition according to the invention comprises a wax or a mixture of waxes.

  The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C. By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture.

  In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 45, more preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C. and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

  The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2929 by the company TA instruments.

  The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 0 ° C. to 120 ° C., at a heating rate of 10 ° C./minute, and then is cooled by 120 C at 0 C at a cooling rate of 10 C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from 0 C to 120 C at a fat alcohol + wax speed 25/01/2005 heating of 5 C / minute . During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

  The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

  The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, the hardness being determined by the method described above for the fatty phase.

  In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, lemon wax, orange wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, japanese wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

  Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

  Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference ISO-JOJOBA-50e , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di (1,1,1-trimethylpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name HEST 2T- 4S by the company HETERENE, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

  Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and modified silicone waxes, for example silicone candelilla wax or fluorinated waxes.

  It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57 or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. under the name PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73, by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 According to one embodiment, the wax has a hardness of less than 4 MPa, preferably less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

  Such waxes are, for example, oxypropylenated lanolin wax (5OE), orange wax, lemon wax, hydrogenated castor oil wax, the mixture of aliphatic acid esters and primary alcohols marketed under reference BURCO LB-02, olive wax (unsaponifiables of hydrogenated olive oil) sold under the reference INHOLIVE by the company EXA International, PDMS grafted behenyl methacrylate wax marketed under the reference KP-562 by the company. SHIN ETSU, fluoropolymethyl alkyl dimethylsiloxane wax such as that sold under the reference WAX 23087 by the company Wacker, the C30-C45 alkyl dimethicone wax such as that marketed under the reference SF 1642 by GE Bayer, ditrimethylol propane tetrastearate; ethoxylated (5OE) such as that sold under the reference SF 1642 by the company GE BAYER.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a so-called sticky wax that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.1 N.s.

  The tacky wax used may have in particular a tack ranging from 0.1 Ns to 10 Ns, in particular ranging from 0.1 Ns to 5 Ns, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5 Ns and better still from 0.3 to 2 Ns

  The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compressive force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the RHEO company, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm.

  The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is cast in a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before measuring the adhesive.

  The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

  The tacky wax that can be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa. The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 As the sticky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.

  The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 45 ° C.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of waxes ranging from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 35% by weight.

  The wax (s) (including sticky wax) may be present as an aqueous microdispersion of wax. By aqueous microdispersion of wax is meant an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.

  Microdispersions of wax are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are especially described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.

  In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally a portion of the water, and then gradually adding hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil type emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with the final obtaining of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.

  The microdispersions of wax can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, the high-pressure homogenizer, the turbines.

  The particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.06 μm to 0 μm). , 5 pm).

  These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise, in a minor proportion, oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active agent.

  When the wax or the mixture of waxes is present in the compositions according to the invention, Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, the particle size, expressed in average effective diameter in terms of volume D [4.3] as defined below, may advantageously be less than or equal to 1 μm and in particular less than or equal to 0.75 μm. The wax particles may have various shapes. They can in particular be spherical.

  Oils The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more oils.

  The oil may be chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

  The oil or oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa at 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). .

  These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' Fatty Alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 or permetyls, esters C8-C16 branched isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

  As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  It is also possible to mention linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I)

CH \ CH \ 3/3 \

SiO Si O Si CH 3/3

R

  where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom. Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-trisiloxane, 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group .

  It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

  The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of fatty alcohol + wax 25/01 / 2005 C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula RI COOR 2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates, - acetals, - citrates, - and their mixtures. The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to

  the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, fatty alcohol + wax groups 25/01/2005 each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

  Structural Agent The structuring agent of the oil (s), if present, may be selected from semicrystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

  By polymer is meant compounds having at least two units, preferably at least 3 units and especially at least 10 repeating units. By "semicrystalline polymer" is meant polymers having a crystallizable portion, a pendant crystallizable chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular fusion (solideliquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s).

  The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. (in particular ranging from 30 ° C. to 80 ° C.), preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 60 ° C. This melting temperature is a temperature of change of state of the first order.

  This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.).

  Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention. have a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. they have a number-average molecular weight greater than 5,600, for example from 5,700 to 99,000. By "crystallizable chain or block" is meant within the meaning of the invention a a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting point. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

  The semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof.

  Such polymers are described for example in EP 1396259.

  According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth) acrylates. As a particular example of a semi-crystalline structuring polymer suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are the Intelimer products from Landec, described in the "Intelimer polymers" brochure, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains.

  The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

  As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such that for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS.

  It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas and fatty alcohols + wax 25/01/2005 treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT.

  The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

  Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E-506C. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (13) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers stearyl such as that marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C 1 -C 6 alkyl chains, and in particular C, to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton by Shell Chemical Co., or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel designation such as the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

  It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680.

  These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches. Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

  Cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium of the composition according to the invention may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol , isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes and their mixtures.

  The aqueous medium (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80%. By weight Emulsifying system According to the invention, an emulsifying system suitably chosen for obtaining an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion is used.

  The compositions according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 40%, and better still from 0.3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Fatty Alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 The ionic surfactants used in the context of the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. However, generally, the choice of at least one anionic surfactant is preferred.

  As a representative of the anionic surfactants that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made more particularly of: the salts of C 16 -C 30 fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and / or 2-amino stearate; 2-methylpropane di-1,3-ol; salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof; phosphoric esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from the company Croda); sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate" alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate; isethionates; acylglutamates, such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R marketed by the company AJINOMOTO), and mixtures thereof. Triethanolamine stearate and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane diol-1,3 stearate are particularly suitable for the invention. The latter is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid with triethanolamine and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane di-1,3-ol.

  In general, the compositions according to the invention may contain from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, or even from 1 to 15% by weight of anionic surfactant relative to the weight total of the composition.

  Representative examples of cationic surfactants that may be mentioned include: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylmethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as N, N, Ntrimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (Behentrimonium chloride). ).

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one nonionic or amphoteric surfactant. See Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, Vol. 22, p. 333432, 5th edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 Cellulosic Polymer According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a cellulosic polymer.

  This is why another subject of the invention is a composition for coating keratinous fibers comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium characterized in that it comprises: a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; carbon and at least one wax, the fatty phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa and - at least one cellulosic polymer.

  Preferably, the cellulosic polymer is film-forming. By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film.

  By cellulosic polymer is meant cellulose or a cellulose derivative.

  The cellulosic polymer may be chosen from alkylcelluloses such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses such as carboxymethylcellulose and mixtures thereof.

  The cellulosic polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight. weight, and better from 1% to 15% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the cellulosic polymer, an additional film-forming polymer.

  The additional film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight. by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

  By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

  The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

  The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

  As the acid group-bearing monomer, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

  The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.

  Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

  Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

  According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

  The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

  Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha methyl styrene.

  Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesters amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

  The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanespolyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

  The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

  The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid , azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2-acid , 6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

  The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

  The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium NH4 + ion or a metal ion, such as for example an Na +, Li +, K +, Mg2 +, Cal + ion. , Cul +, Fe2 +, Fei +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M.

  The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

  It is preferred to use isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate-based copolymers, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

  The composition may comprise a water-soluble film-forming polymer chosen from: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 - gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid organic medium of the composition comprising oils or organic solvents such as those described below (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer).

  As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group).

  These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl.

  Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate of vinyl vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate Vinyl, Fatty Alcohol Propionate + Wax 25/01/2005 vinyl / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, acetate vinyl / octadecyl vinyl ether, re tailed with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

  Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

  Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylpolate , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

  The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

  Liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes, and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical. such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (PV) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

  The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase (liquid organic medium of the composition), generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070, Neocryl A-1090, Neocryl BT-62 and Neocryl A-1079. and Neocryl A-523 by the company AVECIANEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 Sr by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the trade names Neorez R-981 and Neorez R-974 by the company Avecia-Neoresins, the Avalure UR-405, Avalure UR-410, Avalure UR-425, Avalure UR-450, Sancure 875, Sancure 861, Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85 by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 by the company HYDROMER; the sulpopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM from Chimex and mixtures thereof.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

  The claimed compositions may also contain ingredients commonly used in the field of makeup of keratinous fibers.

  Additives The composition according to the invention may also comprise a dyestuff such as pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 Organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum carmine lacquers.

  The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, culinary disodium salt, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise fillers chosen from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical.

  Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as nylon (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as ExpanceL (Nobel Industrie), acrylic powders such as polytrap (Dow Corning), polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (eg Toshiba Tospearls), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (SILICA BEADS) of MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

  The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 25%, and better still from 1 to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

  Fatty Alcohol + Wax 25/01/2005 The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, hydrophilic gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins , fibers and their mixtures.

  The hydrophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten by Hercules, polymethacrylate sodium hydroxide sold under the name DARVAN N 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company Henkel, the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers PEMULEN type, the AMPS ( Polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the CLARIANT company, the AMPS / acrylamide copolymers SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, and the polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise), and mixtures thereof.

  The water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above can also act as water-soluble gelling agent.

  The water-soluble gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, or even 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and more preferably from 5 to 150.

  In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more preferably from 0.3 mm to 3 mm.

  Fatty Alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 The fibers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they may be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin.

  As fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (nylon) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers, such as those sold under the name "KERMEL" "KERMEL TECH" by the company RHODIA or poly- (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar by the company DuPont de Nemours.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a mascara.

  The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container defining at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closure element.

  The container is preferably associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, in particular obtained by molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be integral with the receptacle, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

  Advantageously, the applicator is integral with a rod which itself is integral with the closure element.

  The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure member and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, or clamping. By "latching" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

  The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

  The container is preferably equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

  The contents of the aforementioned patents or patent applications are incorporated by reference in this application.

  The following examples are presented for illustrative and not limiting of the invention.

  The quantities indicated are in weight percentage and expressed in relation to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.

  Example 1 and 2: Mascaras A mascara (example 2) according to the invention comprising a wax and a fatty alcohol (behen alcohol) and a mascara according to the prior art (example 1) comprising a wax but no fatty alcohol are prepared .

  Example 1 (excluding Example 2 invention) hydroxyethyl cellulose 1 1 triethanolamine 3.1 3.1 stearic acid 5.8 5.8 behenic alcohol 0 10 sticky wax (Kester Wax 20 Koster Keunen K82P) Water Qsp100 Qsp100 For each example, the load is measured in vitro.

  The in vitro load is measured gravimetrically on 2 specimens of false eyelashes which are curved Caucasian hair (15 long hair of about 15 mm distributed over a distance of 1 cm).

  Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 False eyelashes are made up from the bottom by making 3x10 mascara passages spaced 2 minutes with product recovery between each set of 10. The 2 test pieces are dried for 10 min at room temperature and weighed.

  The charge at To (CT,) of the sample before drying is determined, which corresponds to the load measured after drying (C sec) divided by the solids content of the composition (ES).

  CTo = C sec / ES The following results are obtained Charge CTo (in g)

Example 1 0.0025

Example 2 0.0031

  The composition of Example 2 according to the invention has a higher load than the composition which does not comprise fatty alcohol. It is also found that the filler increases with the fatty alcohol content.

Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005

Claims (28)

  1. A composition for coating keratinous fibers comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium characterized in that it comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 5% of at least one wax, the fatty phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a cellulosic polymer.   3. Composition for coating keratinous fibers comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium characterized in that it comprises: a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and at least one wax, the fatty phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa - and at least one cellulosic polymer.   4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the cellulosic polymer is chosen from alkylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses carboxyalkylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.   5. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the cellulosic polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, lemon wax, orange wax and waxes. Chinese insects; rice wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricurry wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, fatty alcohols + wax 25/01/2005 waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C8-C32, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes and mixtures thereof.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness less than or equal to 4 MPa, preferably less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from waxes having a tack greater than or equal to 0.1 N.s.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearoyloxy) stearate.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax or the waxes are present in a total content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 35% by weight.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase has a hardness ranging from 2 to 5 MPa, preferably from 2.5 to 4 MPa and better still from 2 to 3.5 MPa.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is chosen from lauryl, myristic, cetyl, stearyl, oleic, cetearyl, behenic and erucic alcohols and their mixtures.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol represents from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 35% and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.   Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous medium is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 % to 80% by weight.   16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic surfactant.   17. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that said anionic surfactant is chosen from C16-C30 fatty acid salts; salts of polyoxyethoxylated fatty acids; phosphoric esters and their salts; alkyl ether sulphates; sulfosuccinates; isethionates and acylglutamates and mixtures thereof.   18. A composition according to claim 16 or 17, characterized in that the anionic surfactant comprises at least triethanolamine stearate and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane di-ol-1,3 stearate.   19. Composition according to any one of claims 16 to 18, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is present in a proportion of 0.01 to 30% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. the composition.   20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional film-forming polymer chosen from synthetic polymers, radical type or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof.   21. Composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the additional film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 % to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight.   22. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a dyestuff.   23. Composition according to Claim 22, characterized in that the dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005 24. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that it is a mascara.   25. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 24, for obtaining makeup charging keratin fibers and in particular eyelashes and / or a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers.   26. The use, in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, of associating a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 5% of at least one wax. fat phase having a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa, to obtain makeup charging keratinous fibers including eyelashes and eyebrows and a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers.   27. Use of the combination, in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, of a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one wax, and at least one a cellulosic polymer, the fatty phase having a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa, to obtain makeup charging keratinous fibers including eyelashes and eyebrows and a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers.   28. A cosmetic process for the care or makeup of keratin fibers, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to one of the following:   any of claims 1 to 24. Fatty alcohol + wax 25/01/2005