FR2999923A1 - Makeup and/or caring composition for lips and/or skin, comprises water, alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, first non volatile oil including e.g. silicone oils, stabilizing agent including e.g. surfactants, and solid fatty substance - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of aqueous emulsion comprises (A) 5 wt.% of water, (B) alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises 1-6C, preferably 2-3C, preferably ethylcellulose, (C) a first non volatile oil consisting of silicone and/or fluoro oils, (D) a stabilizing agent consisting of surfactants and/or hydrophilic gelling agents, and (E) solid fatty substance consisting of waxes and/or pasty fatty substances. The composition is free from or comprising = 4 wt.% of octyldodecanol.

Description

The present invention aims to provide cosmetic compositions comprising alkylcellulose, in particular dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, which are stable and capable of providing a deposit, in particular of make-up, having good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of outfit, comfort and non-sticky. The compositions targeted according to the invention are more specifically aqueous emulsions, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil, and preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and / or the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. In fact, obtaining an aesthetic effect, after the application of a cosmetic composition, results from a set of cosmetic properties intrinsic to the composition that express themselves in terms of performance such as comfort at application. and at the port, the homogeneity, the non-stickiness and / or the holding of the deposit in time. In particular, obtaining a homogeneous and stable composition over time (especially for at least 1 week at room temperature), as well as improving the behavior over time of the cosmetic products, once applied to the skin or lips without stickiness, is a permanent concern of formulators. These objectives are particularly true in the field of makeup, and other skin care products and / or lips. It is also often sought to obtain a deposit whose gloss is satisfactory, in particular in the field of lipsticks, stick or gloss form for the lips. Ethylcellulose is known for its ability, when solubilized in sufficient quantity in cosmetic and / or therapeutic compositions, to allow adhesion of the resulting films. Ethylcellulose, and generally alkylcelluloses (with an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms), unfortunately has a limited solubility in most of the solvents commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations. . In general, monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for solubilizing sufficient quantities of ethylcellulose in cosmetic compositions or pharmaceuticals. The evaporation of C2-C8 monoalcohols leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, on the one hand to a concentration of the deposit and, on the other hand, to the formation of a coating. surface of the skin or lips with good behavior. For example, the document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions comprising especially ethylcellulose solubilized in ethyl alcohol (solvents "SDA 38B-190" or "SDA 40B-190"). However, these volatile mono-alcohols have the disadvantage of being potentially irritating to the skin and / or the lips, and therefore can be detrimental during repeated use on the skin. However, when one is free from the presence of these compounds, especially such as ethanol, this can be detrimental in terms of comfort and feeling of stickiness of the resulting deposit. Therefore, it remains the need to have cosmetic compositions, free of C2-C8 monoalcohols, comprising alkylcellulose, and able to form a deposit on keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, which is homogeneous and stable over time (especially for a week at room temperature) and having good holding properties and / or comfort and / or shine and which is non-sticky or not very sticky. More recently, WO 2012/038879 proposes an interesting alternative. However, the strength and / or the tackiness of the deposits made with these compositions can be further improved. More particularly, there is a need for homogenous and time stable makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions comprising alkylcellulose (for example, which does not form grains and does not deheat not and whose texture does not evolve), easy to apply, and allowing to obtain a thin deposit and light, fresh, homogeneous, and comfortable, especially non-sticky or whose stickiness level remains acceptable for the user, and having a good level of behavior and not giving a greasy feeling. The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to its total weight ; (B) at least one of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and more preferably ethylcellulose; (C) at least one first non-volatile oil (C) selected from silicone and / or fluorinated oils; (D) at least one stabilizing agent selected from surfactants and / or hydrophilic gelling agents; (H) at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and their mixture; and with said composition being free of octyldodecanol or comprising an octyldodecanol content of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free or comprises a total content of C 10 -C 26 alcohols of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention is free from or comprises a content of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight in second (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s). (E) chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and - their mixtures.

As is apparent from the example presented below, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of ethylcellulose with an oily system different from that considered in document WO 2012/038879 and containing at least one body specific solid fat and on the other hand less than 4% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) chosen from: - C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and stable composition whose cosmetic properties differ in particular by obtaining a deposit having a improved level of hold and not sticky. In addition, the deposit obtained with the compositions according to the invention is fine, light and fresh, in particular, without feeling greasy, and non-sticky or whose stickiness level remains acceptable to the user. Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is homogeneous, stable over time (in particular after 1 week at room temperature), easy to apply to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit, presenting good properties in terms of holding and comfort (the deposit is fine, light, and fresh). Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is easy to apply and makes it possible to lead to makeup with precise contours of the lips. In addition, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageous because of its original architecture, in particular with respect to products for the lips marketed conventionally, in that it indeed has, unlike the compositions described in WO 2012/038879, a very "aqueous" (as opposed to oily) and fluid (especially when the composition is in liquid form) texture, the deposit obtained being very light and fresh. A composition according to the invention is also particularly suitable for the use of water-soluble dyes, in particular water-soluble dyes that are suitable for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and better the lips. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight and, particularly preferably, at least 4% by weight (dry matter) of alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose), relative to the total weight of the Composition. In a particularly preferred manner, a composition according to the invention comprises from 1 to 60% by weight (dry matter) of alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose), in particular from 4 to 50% by weight, better still 5% by weight. 30% by weight, and more preferably 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in solid form. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" is intended to mean a composition whose hardness at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm-1 when measured according to the protocol described below, and it is possible to measure a viscosity. According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid" (or "fluid") is intended to mean a composition capable of flowing under its own weight, at ambient temperature (at 20 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg), as opposed to solid. In particular, "liquid" means a fluid texture, that is to say can be in particular in creamy or pasty form. According to this embodiment, in particular when the solid fatty substance is chosen from waxes, it can be provided that during the preparation process, at the end of the necessary heating step to melt the wax or waxes present, the The composition remains stirred until it has returned to room temperature. Indeed, this makes it possible to obtain a fluid texture, even in the presence of a wax content which would make it possible to obtain a solid composition if the agitation was interrupted earlier, namely as soon as it is obtained. a homogeneous mixture, and therefore before the composition has returned to room temperature. Protocol for the measurement of viscosity: The measurement of the viscosity is generally carried out at 20 ° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 2 or No. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may have at 25 ° C. a viscosity of between 0.2 and 25 Pa.s, preferably of between 1 and 20 Pa.s.

Preferably, the viscosity at 25 ° C of a composition according to the invention may be between 2 and 17 Pa.s. In particular, the viscosity at 25 ° C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 25 Pa.s (mobile 4), preferably between 1 Pa.s (mobile 2) at 17 Pa.s (mobile 4), and better between 1 Pa.s (mobile 2) to 12 Pa.s (mobile 4). As indicated above, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion (s), and preferably under form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lipstick, in particular a liquid, or a gloss for the lips. The compositions according to the invention may especially be in the form of gloss, dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and better the lips. According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant (s), in particular less than 4% by weight, especially less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even may be totally free of silicone surfactant. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present application is a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular of the lips and / or of the skin, and better of the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in Applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined above. ETHYLCELLULOSE A composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and better a composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content (dry matter). ranging from 1 to 60% by weight.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 4 to 50% by weight of dry matter of alkylcellulose (preferably of which the alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose), of more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, and still more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain consisting of 3-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5C1 ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical. Advantageously, the alkylcellulose may be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose may be ethylcellulose.

It is an ethyl cellulose ether. The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to an alkoxy content of 54.88 ° A. The polymers of ethylcellulose used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, that is to say comprising an ethoxy content content ranging from at 50 ° A. According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) may be used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a latex-type dispersion or pseudolatex.

The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. The product sold by FMC Biopolymer under the trade name "AQUACOAT ECD-30", which consists of a dispersion of ethyl cellulose at a concentration of about 26.2% by weight in the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, is particularly suitable as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose. water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol. According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product "AQUACOAT ECD", can be used in a proportion of 3 to 90% by weight, in particular from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 20 to 50% by weight of dispersion of ethylcellulose, relative to the total weight of the composition. PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, such as water, the oils that are distinct from those indicated above or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerability, toxicology and acceptable touch) is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

FATTY PHASE The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase and in particular a liquid fatty phase, comprising at least one first non-volatile silicone and / or fluorinated oil (C), and is free or comprises a content of less than or equal to 4 % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition of a second particular non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (E), as indicated above. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). NON-VOLATILE SILICONE AND / OR FLUORINATED OIL (C) A composition according to the invention comprises at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils (C). By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). Preferably, the first non-volatile oil (s) chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils (C) is / are present in a total content ranging from % to 75% by weight, preferably 5% to 60% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of first non-volatile silicone and / or fluorinated oil (s) (C) ranging from 10% to 40% by weight. and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase of said composition. Non-volatile silicone oil According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil (C) is a silicone oil. By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one Si atom. The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may especially be chosen from silicone oils having in particular a viscosity at 25 ° C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes ( cSt) (9 x 10-6 m 2 / s), and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone can be measured according to ASTM D-445. According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenyl silicone oil. The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, carbon, PDMSs comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may contain at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as a linear (that is to say non-cyclic) oil. As representative of these non-volatile and non-phenylated linear silicone oils, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

The non-phenyl silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the silicones of formula (I): ## STR1 ## wherein R 1 is at least one of the following groups: in which: R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p being integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt.

Non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention include the compounds of formula (I) for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt, as that sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, that sold under the name AK 500000 by Waker, the one sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Bluestar and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by Dow Corning Corporation. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning and that sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning. the substituents R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as that sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive. According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil (C) is a phenyl silicone oil. As a representative of these phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of: phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which the R groups independently of one another represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: R-O-O-O-RII (II) in which the R groups independently represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. By way of example, mention may be made of mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or pentaphenyl. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: Ph Ph Ph Me-Si-o-Si-o-Si-Me Ph Me Ph (III) in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V): ## STR1 ## wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -O SiMe 3 and y is 0 or ranges from 1 to 1000, z ranges from 1 to 1000, so that the compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl Siloxyphenyl Dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. It is possible to use for example PHENYL TRIMETHYLSILOXY TRISILOXANE, especially sold under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID. The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their mixtures: R, R 51 -O SiO SiO 0 R, R, O F 11: 03 R, (VI) in which: R 1 to R 10, independently each other are saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, linear, cyclic or branched, C1-C30, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, under reserve that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from 0. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. - The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII), and their mixtures: R 1 R 3 Si R 5 R 4 Si-CH, R 6 HC - Si -O Si R2 (VII) in which: - R1 to R6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals of C 1 -C 30, - m, n and p are ind penden- tially from one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical , linear or branched, C 1 -C 30, especially C 1 -C 12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.

In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and their mixtures: CH, Si 0 Si 0 Si CH, (VIII) in which: R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical; n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m varies from 1 to 100. In particular, the radicals R of the formula ( VIII) and R1 to R10 previously defined, may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially C 2 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10, alkyl radical, or an aryl radical mono- or polycyclic C6-C14, especially C10-C13 or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, it is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt).

As the phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), phenyltrimethicones such as Dow Corning DC556 (22.5 cSt), Rhône Poulenc Silbione 70663V30 oil (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils can be used in particular. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a molecular mass by weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. the phenyl silicones are preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention varies from 500 to 10,000 g / mol. By way of example of preferred non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as: phenyl silicones (also called phenyl silicone oil) such as trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker ( MW = 9000 g / mol) (see formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as that sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI DLC) ((see formula (III) above), polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) not volatile, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, 10 group elements each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; - and their mixtures. Preferably, the first non-volatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil. Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones. Non-volatile fluorinated oil According to a second embodiment, the first non-volatile oil (C) is a fluorinated oil. By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds. By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds of which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils.

As examples of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products marketed by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonvolatile silicone oils (preferably phenylated) and / or nonvolatile fluorinated oils, in a proportion of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, particularly preferably from 10 to 45% by weight. According to a preferred embodiment, said first non-volatile oil (C) may be chosen from phenyl silicone oils and fluorinated oils, in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones and perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not comprise non-volatile oils other than the silicone and / or fluorinated non-volatile oils described above. In particular, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils. SECOND (S) OIL (S) NON-VOLATILE (S) HYDROCARBONATED (S) fEl The composition according to the invention comprises a total content of octyldodecanol less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise an octyldodecanol content ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight. % to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of octyldodecanol. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of C 10 -C 26 alcohols of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of C10-C26 alcohols ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of C 10 -C 26 alcohols. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight of one or more second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s). (E) chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and - their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of second (s) hydrocarbon oil (s) non-volatile (s) (E) ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition said second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E) being chosen from: - C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and - their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 3% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E), in particular less than 2% by weight, by relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) hydrocarbon (s) (E) relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of second (s) hydrocarbon oil (s) nonvolatile (s) (E), said second (s) oil (s) hydrocarbon (s) nonvolatile (s) ) (E) being chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and - their mixtures. According to another particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise octyldodecanol, C 10 -C 26 alcohols or the said second (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to , 2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of second oil (s) nonvolatile (s) hydrocarbon (s) (E).

Within the meaning of the present invention, are more particularly considered under the qualification "second oil (E)" the oils selected from: - C10-C26 monohydric alcohols, - monoesters, optionally hydroxylated, a carboxylic acid C2-C8 and a C2-C8 alcohol; the optionally hydroxylated diester of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; the optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 triacidic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of an oxygen atom and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. L hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

In the present case, these oils comprise at least one oxygen atom. In particular, the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (E) according to the invention may comprise at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") and / or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester oil").

The ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated. According to a first embodiment, the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (E) is an ester oil. In particular, this ester oil (E) can in particular be chosen from: - monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl, - diester of a C2-dicarboxylic acid -C8 and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl; such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate; triesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic triacid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such as triacetin.

The oils (E) cover alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular monoalcohols and generally fatty alcohols.

Representative of these fatty alcohols include linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or natural, such as for example alcohols from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow. .). Are also considered under the qualification "oil (E)" the ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols, some cuts more or less long alcohols of natural origin, such as coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 at C18) or diol or cholesterol type compounds. As particular examples of fatty alcohols covered by the second oils (E), particular mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), erucic acid and arachidyl alcohol. , 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, palmitic, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred manner, a composition according to the invention is free of octyldodecanol.

ADDITIONAL OIL (S) THREE (S) (F) According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (F) distinct from the second (s) Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E). Preferably the third (s) additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (F) may be a polar oil. According to this embodiment, the third (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) may / may be preferably chosen from: - alcohol oils comprising at least 27 carbon atoms, preferably diisostearyl malate; ester oils obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; Ester oils obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; ester oils comprising at least 23 carbon atoms; oils comprising at least one carbonate function; and - their mixtures. By "alcohol oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one alcohol function. In particular, such an oil can be monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated.

By "ester oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one ester function. In particular, such an oil may be a monoester, a diester, a triester or a tetraester, for example. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more third non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) in a total content ranging from 1% at 75% by weight relative to its total weight. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more third non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) in a total content ranging from 1% at 75%, by weight, preferably from 5% to 75% by weight, relative to its total weight. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more third non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) in a total content ranging from 10% at 50% by weight, relative to its total weight.

According to yet another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more third (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) in a content ranging from 20% 45% by weight, based on its total weight.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the third additional nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil (F) and the alkylcellulose (in particular ethylcellulose) can be used in the composition according to the invention in a "third (s)" weight ratio. non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) / alkylcellulose "between 1 and 20, preferably between 2 and 15.

In a particularly preferred manner, the weight ratio "third (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (F) / alkylcellulose" may be between 3 and 10. 1. Alcohol oil comprising At least 27 carbon atoms According to a first particular embodiment, the third (s) additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (F) may be an alcoholic oil comprising at least minus 27 carbon atoms. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the alcoholic oil comprising at least 27 carbon atoms may be chosen from: monohydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, octy1-2 dodecyl stearate; glyceryl di-iso-stearate; diisostearyl malate; and their mixtures; dihydroxy oils, preferably chosen from polyglyceryl diisostearate, diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of the general formula HO-R 1 - (- 000-R 2 -COO-R 1 -) h-OH, in which R 1 represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid, R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example marketed. by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DDDA7, and mixtures thereof; Trihydroxy oils, preferably selected from castor oil; and - their mixtures. Preferably, and as indicated above, the alcohol oil comprising at least 27 carbon atoms may advantageously be diisostearyl malate. This embodiment may be advantageous, in particular if it is desired to improve the gloss properties of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention, in particular on the skin and / or the lips. 2. Ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms According to a second preferred embodiment, the third (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) ) (F) may be an ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from the purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), the C12 alcohol benzoate. at C15, octy1-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octy1-2-dodecyl stearate, octy1-2 dodecyl erucate, isostearate of isostearyl, octy1-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols with more than 10 carbon atoms, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate; diisostearyl malate; and their mixtures.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen by the monoesters. Preferably, the ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from neopentanoic acid esters, preferably chosen from octy1-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate d isodecyl, isostearyl neopentanoate, diisostearyl malate, and mixtures thereof. 3. Ester oil obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms According to a third embodiment, the third (s) oil (s) nonvolatile hydrocarbon (s) additional (s) (F) may be an ester oil obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate and octy-2-dodecyl stearate. , octy1-2 dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, laurate of hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, and mixtures thereof 4. Ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms According to a fourth embodiment, the third (s) additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (F) may be be an ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms, preferably at least 30 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the third (s) additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (F) may be an ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms chosen from: monoester oils optionally hydroxyls, comprising at least 23 carbon atoms, - optionally hydroxylated diester oils, triesters, or tetraesters, comprising at least 23 carbon atoms, - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid; the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, the vegetable hydrocarbon oils, the unsaturated triglycerides, the sucrose esters, preferably the sucrose diacetate hexaisobutyrate, and their mixtures.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms may be chosen from: - monoesters, optionally hydroxyl, comprising between 23 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is 22, as for example For example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), jojoba oil, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, myristate Isopropyl isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, these are the esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. carbon, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is 24. Preferably, the ester comprises between 25 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of oleyl erucate and / or neopentanoic acid esters, preferably chosen from octyldocecyl neopentanoate; isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof; the diesters, optionally hydroxyl, in particular comprising between 30 and 70 carbon atoms in total, preferably those chosen from glyceryl di-isostearate; diisostearyl malate; polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate; and their mixtures; - The triesters, optionally hydroxyl, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, preferably those selected from triesters of triacid carboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; tetraesters, optionally hydroxyl, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, preferably those chosen from penthaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and of a mono carboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate or pentaerythrityl; tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, glyceryl tri-decyltetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyltetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular those of general formula HO-R1 - (- 000-R2-COO-R1-) h-OH, wherein R1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid, R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7, and mixtures thereof, the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-copolymers hexadecene, such as for example that sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of g ras (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil. In particular, there may be mentioned saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, C1816 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois) unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; The sucrose esters, preferably selected from the hydrocarbon esters of sucrose and of C2-C6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of acetic acid and isobutyric acid esters with sucrose, preferably sucrose di-acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate), in particular the compound whose INCI name is SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE (in particular sold under the reference SUSTANE SAIB FOOD GRADE KOSHER by the company Eastman Chemicals) and the compounds of INCI name Sucrose Polyosoyate sold under the reference Crodaderm S by Croda, Sucrose Polybénénate sold under the reference Crodaderm B by Croda, Sucrose Polycottonseedate sold under the reference Crodaderm C by Croda; and their mixtures; and their mixtures. 5. Oil comprising at least one carbonate function According to a fifth embodiment, the third (s) additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (F) may be an oil comprising at least one carbonate function.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the oil comprising at least one carbonate function may be chosen from Caprylyl Carbonate, for example that marketed under the reference Cetiol CC by Cognis, for example diethylhexyl carbonate marketed under the reference Tegosoft DEC by EvonikGoldschmidt Personal Care, and their blends.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) between 20 and 80% by weight, preferably between 40 and 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention. in a weight ratio "non-volatile oil (s) / alkylcellulose" of between 0.3 and 20, preferably between 1 and 15, and better still between 5 and 10. NON-VOLATILE ADDITIONAL OILS (G) According to a method of particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fourth additional nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil (G) distinct from the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E) and (F) described previously. Preferably the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) additional (s) (s) (G) is / are chosen from: - non-volatile hydrocarbon oils apolar; non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils chosen from monoesters comprising less than 23 carbon atoms in total; and - their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., 6a, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - δp characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; 10 - 6p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; and - 15a is determined by the equation: δa = (δp2h2) 1/4 The parameters δp, δh, 15D and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atom. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, petroleum jelly oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, the hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340) g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), the copolymers decene / butene, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes and polydecenes Hydrogenated species such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, and - and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based nonpolar oils may be chosen from: paraffin oil or its derivatives, petrolatum oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils chosen from monoesters comprising less than 23 carbon atoms in total may be represented by isononyl isononanoate. Additional volatile oils The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional volatile oil. Preferably, said volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and / or volatile fluorinated oils. The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, or a fluorinated oil. According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and can in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. As additional volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a fluorinated oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar. The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably from 40 ° C to 55 ° C, and preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 50 ° C. The additional volatile hydrocarbon oil may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls; linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and N-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably less than 5% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition may be free of monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of additional volatile oil.

STABILIZING AGENT (D) As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one stabilizing agent chosen from surface-active agents and / or hydrophilic gelling agents.

According to one particular embodiment, the stabilizing agent (D) may be a surfactant. According to another particular embodiment, the stabilizing agent (D) may be a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally changed.

Preferably, the composition is such that the stabilizing agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is such that the surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic gelling agent (preferably a polymer of natural origin, optionally modified) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants The composition according to the invention may contain an emulsifying system comprising one or more surfactants, especially present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, when the composition comprises a surfactant, it may be present in a content such that the weight ratio "total content of non-volatile oils / surfactant content (s)" is between 1 and 40, preferably between 5 and 35, and better between 8 and 25.

An emulsifying surfactant preferably selected for use in obtaining an aqueous emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water type, is preferably used. In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifying surfactant having at 25 ° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8. It is also possible to use an emulsifying surfactant having a balance at 25 ° C. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, less than 8. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably nonionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon surfactant.

Examples of hydrocarbon surfactants suitable for the invention are described below. Nonionic surfactants The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from polyethylene oxide alkyl and polyalkyl esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and alkyls. and polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated polyalkyl ethers and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglucosides, alkyls and and sucrose polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unmethylated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers and mixtures thereof. 1) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, stearate may be mentioned. 40E, stearate 50E, stearate 100E, laurate 20E, laurate 40E, distearate 150E. (2) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, cetyl may be mentioned. ether 23 0E, oleyl ether 50 OE, phytosterol 30E, steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 100. 3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, those which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 12 -C 18, ethoxylated alcohols such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 units oxyethylene (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRU 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C 1215 Pareth-7 ") as that sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 12 -C 18, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol. ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as the BRU 72 marketed by the company UNIQEMA; 4) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. For example, sorbitan laurate may be mentioned. 4 or 20 OE, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as Tween 20 sold by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20E, sorbitan stearate 20E, sorbitan oleate 20 OE or the Cremophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. As non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, preferably that sold under the reference Arlatone 2121U from Croda, is preferably used. (5) Polyoxyethylene or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably used having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of 0 to 100. 6) As alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, use is preferably those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 , especially 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cii-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG ilO® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and their mixtures. More generally, alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are defined more specifically hereinafter. 7) Sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters include, for example, Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example commercialized sucrose palmite. under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. 8) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, those having a number of units of glycerol are preferably used. ethylene oxide (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. For example, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate may be mentioned. 9) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100, Nikkol Chemyl Alcohol 100. Anionic surfactants The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulphates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulphonates and isethionates. taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, in particular C 12 -C 20 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and mixtures thereof. 1) As alkyl ether sulfates, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 OE) marketed under the names Sipon A0S225 or TEXAPON N702 by Henkel, lauryl ether sulphate ammonium chloride (C12-14 70-30) (30E) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90 E) ammonium sulphate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sodium sulfate and magnesium sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson. 2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned for example the (for example alkaline) salts of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts. The glycol carboxylate type surfactant may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic acids comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic acids can be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol type, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate), such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N ® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form) °.

As amido ether carboxylate (ABC), mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (30E), sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 30 by the company Kao Chemicals. As the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (60E) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals the polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil fatty acids sold under the name OLIVEM 400® by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated tri-decyl ether carboxylate (60E) marketed under the trademark NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX® by the company Nikkol. 3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NIL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30® by Seppic, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol, the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol. alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken. glutamates, such as the triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate marketed under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto. The salts and / or derivatives of glutamic acid are described more precisely later. Aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate / triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate sold under the name ASPARACK by the company Mitsubishi. glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto. citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt. galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. 4) As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by the company Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant company; 5) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the company Jordan. 6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate sodium sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® 25 by Nikkol. 7) As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of lauryl alcohol monosulfosuccinate (C12 / C14 70/30), oxyethylenated (30E) sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco , the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (20E) di-sodium oleamide sulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol. SH 135® by Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauric amide monosulfinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of lauryl citrate oxyethylenated monosulphosuccinate (10 OE) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre. 8) As alkyl sulphoacetate, mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of sodium lauryl sulphoacetate and di-sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-Lyl LSB by the company Stepan. 9) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20 by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid; a mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) sold under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20 by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol (7 moles of EO) phophoric acid monoester and diester, sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by Condea, potassium salt or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the denomination DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetyl phosphate marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by the company Uniqema. 10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular wheat and oats. As polypeptides, mention may be made, for example, of the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein, sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl soy protein hydrolysed, sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on the coconut fatty acid, sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic. 11) As metal salts of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, in particular C 12 -C 20, mention may in particular be made of metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates.

Cationic surfactants Cationic surfactants may be chosen from: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as C12-30 alkyl trihalylalkyl ammonium halides; such as N, N, N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride) .The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl amino acids such as N-alkylamines. aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant as a stabilizing agent, preferably chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, in particular non-polyoxyethylenated, and more preferably a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, preferably that marketed under the reference Arlatone 2121U Croda.

According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, mention may be made of: a) as nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as that sold under the name FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® by the company FINTEX; b) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225c® by Dow Corning; According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant (s), in particular less than 4% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even totally free, of silicone surfactant. Hydrophilic Gelling Agents Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "hydrophilic gelling agent" or "gelling polymer of the aqueous phase", within the meaning of the present application, a polymer capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. The gelling polymer that can be used according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C *, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (la = 1 Hz) by a threshold of flow I, at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C * can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer considered. By way of illustration, this concentration is between 1 and 2% by weight for a 40% inverse emulsion acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer in polysorbate 80 / I-C16, such as that sold under the name "Simulgel 600" by the company SEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for a copolymer AMPS / cetyl methacrylate ethoxylated (25 EO) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) type ARISTOFLEX HMS. The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an amount sufficient to adjust the rigidity modulus G * (1 Hz, 25 ° C.) of the composition to a value greater than or equal to 10,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 10,000 Pa to 100,000 Pa. The method of die stiffness module G * (1 Hz, 25 ° C) of the composition is described in more detail below. The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition. More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from: - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names "VERSICOL F" or "VERSICOL K" by the company ALLIED COLLOID, "UTRAHOLD 8" by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and the salts, in particular of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (answering the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a sodium polyacrylate crosslinked (answering the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name "LUVIGEL EM" by the company, - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names "RETEN" by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN No. 7" by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by HENKEL, - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably carboxyvinyl polymers which may or may not be modified, the acrylate / calcium copolymers are most particularly preferred according to the present invention; C 30 -alkylacrylate (INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2; - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLAMANT, - AMPS copolymers / acrylamide type SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL marketed by the company SEPPIC, - AMPS copolymers / methacrylates of polyoxyethylenated alkyl (cross-linked or otherwise) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type marketed by Clariant, and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentioned include: - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers, distinct from alkylcellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, such as: galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellane gum, Carob gum, Fennugrec gum, Karaya gum, gum Tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gums and derivatives thereof, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia ), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, xanthan derivatives; alginates and carrageenans; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosen from homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, polyacrylic acids, polyacrylic acid salts or mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified. Preferably, the polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, are chosen from guar gums and their derivatives, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97 -1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride. According to a particular embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from polymers of natural origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative Anionic Polymers Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly with a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly with an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (I): CH 2 = C (R ') Wherein R 'denotes H or CF13, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n denotes zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl and aryl radicals; , alkylaryl, cycloalkyl, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared according to an emulsion polymerization process in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / cc-C30-C38 olefin / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride copolymer / C30-C38 cc-olefin / isopropyl maleate). ) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. Among the anionic associative polymers, it is possible, according to a preferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a carboxylic acid ester with α,--monoethylenic unsaturation and a oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, a carboxylic acid ester containing α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C 1 -C 4 alcohol.

By way of example of this type of compound, mention may be made of Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymer (comprising 20 OE units) or Aculyn 28 (terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (250E).

As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. By way of example, mention may be made of the anionic polymers described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Cationic Associative Polymers As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with amine side groups. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular, quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or otherwise, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth type (stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated (20)). The alkyl radicals carried by the above-quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of C8-C30 fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses are QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM products. -X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA. Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch. Nonionic Associative Polymers The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from: celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as groups alkyl, especially C8-C22 arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, - celluloses modified with alkyl phenol polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol, guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, optionally modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers; copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate copolymer / lauryl methacrylate, and associative polyurethanes. The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes can be sequenced as triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent.

By way of example, polyether polyurethanes which can not be used in the invention, mention may be made of the C16-0E120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, urethane function molecule and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit. As a polyurethane associative polymer, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by Rheox or the Rheolate 208 or 204 or the Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rohm & Haas or Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, and mixtures thereof. . According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: hydroxylpropylguar which may optionally be modified, in particular hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar hydroxypropyl tri methyl ammonium, vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol; anionic associative polymers derived from (meth) acrylic acid, such as the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas, associative polymers nonionic polyurethane-type polyethers, such as the STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis). According to another preferred variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: hydroxylpropylguar which may optionally be modified, in particular hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyl tri methyl ammonium; anionic associative polymers derived from (meth) acrylic acid, such as the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas, nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type, such as STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis). Amphoteric Associative Polymers Among the amphoteric associative polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric polymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or non-branched, obtainable by the copolymerization of 1) at least one monomer of formula ( IVa) or (IVb): wherein R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, , represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom; , n is an integer from 2 to 5, A- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. In which R 9 and R 10, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Z1 represents an OH group or an NHC (CH3) 2CH2SO3H group; 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI): ## STR1 ## in which R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; X denotes an oxygen atom; or of nitrogen and R11 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; 4) optionally at least one crosslinking agent or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb), ( V) and (VI) may be quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. The monomers of formula (IVa) and (TVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate, diethylaminoethylmethacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, (VI) crotonic acid, methyl-2-crotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid. The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate and dimethacrylate. ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose. The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1. The weight average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight average molecular weight of greater than 500, preferably of between 10,000 and 10,000,000 and even more preferably between 100,000 and 800,000. Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 to 99 mole%, more preferably from 20 to 95 mole% and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mole% of compound (s). ) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 to 80 mole%, more preferably from 5 to 80 mole% and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mole% of compound (s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 and 70 mol%, more preferably between 1 and 50 mol% and even more preferably between 1 and 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent when present is preferably between 0.0001 and 1 mol% and more preferably between 0.0001 and 0.1 mol%.

Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formulas (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) ranges from 20:80 to 95: 5 and more preferably from 25:75 to 75:25. The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described in the patent application WO9844012. The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers. The gelling polymer (s) of the aqueous phase, and in particular the associative polymers, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total active ingredient content ranging from from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 5 ° A. It is understood that this quantity is moreover likely to vary according to whether said polymer is associated with an ionic and / or nonionic surfactant and / or a film-forming agent (distinct from alkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose). , which too are likely to affect the consistency of said composition. Preferably, the stabilizing agent (D) is a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, preferably such as optionally modified guar gums. SOLID FATTY BODY (H) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total solid fat content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight. % to 15% by weight, and better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance is hydrocarbon. Wax (s) According to a first embodiment, the solid fatty substance is a wax.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethyl-1-1,1,1-propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di (trimethylol) -1,1,1 propane tetraheenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE . It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC). The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes. According to a first embodiment, Candellila wax is used. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax having a melting point of less than 65 ° C., preferably less than 63 ° C. Preferably, a hydrocarbon wax having a melting point of less than 65 ° C., preferably less than 63 ° C., is used. Such a wax may in particular be chosen from paraffin wax, stearic alcohol, synthetic beeswax (in particular that marketed under the reference CYCLOCHEM 326 A by Evonik Goldschmidt), palm butter, Sumac wax, silicone beeswax, stearyl stearate, dimethicone alkyl wax, certain polymethylene waxes (such as Cirebelle's 303 cirebelle), Berry wax, olive oil wax, lemon wax, ceresin wax (sold under the reference WHITE CERESIN WAX JH 520 by HANSOTECH), and mixtures thereof.

According to an even more preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrogenated olive oil ester wax, preferably that whose INCI name is HYDROGENATED STEARYL OLIVE ESTERS, such as that marketed under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18 L 57 of SOPHIM and the one whose INCI name is HYDROGENATED MYRISTYL OLIVE ESTERS, such as the one sold under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 14L48 SOPHIM. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total wax content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1 and 20% by weight of wax (s), more particularly between 0.5 and 15% by weight, and better still between 1 and 10% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises a total wax content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably when the composition is in liquid form. Preferably, the composition comprises a total wax content of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably when the composition is in liquid form.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content (s) with a melting point of less than 65 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, or even 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise: from 4 to 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably of ethylcellulose, from 15 to 60% by weight of water, From 5 to 60% by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (C), and from 0.1 to 30% by weight of stabilizing agent (s) (D), from 0.5 to 30% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of wax. Pasty fatty substance According to a second embodiment, the solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance. This embodiment is particularly advantageous in the case where one seeks to obtain a gloss or satin deposit, as for example in the case of a lip makeup product, such as for example a lipstick. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and having at a temperature of 23 ° C. C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments . The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty fatty substance may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds vinyl polymers, especially: homopolymers of olefins, olefin copolymers, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols; esters and polyesters, and - their mixtures. The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty fatty substance is polymethyl-trifluoropropyl-methylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by Shin Etsu.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or 0E units) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for example those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; or having reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetylic acid and stearic acid, for example those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Cremer Oleo (and of which the INCI name is hydrogenated coco-glycerides): - phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C16-40 alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid, C18-40, such as the tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, the polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid; and an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil. Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. It is a reaction transforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its P-alkylated dimeric alcohol with loss of one equivalent of water.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of polyhydric aliphatic saturated monohydroxy carboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of aliphatic polyols C2 to C16 reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof.

The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called monoisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called oil diisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate , and their mixtures.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total pasty fatty substance content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, when a composition according to the invention is oil-free (E), said composition may advantageously comprise a total content of solid fatty substances (waxes and / or pasty fatty substances) of less than or equal to 30% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise - from 4 to 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, - from 15 to 60% by weight of water, - from 5 to 60% by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (C), from 0.1 to 30% by weight of stabilizing agent (s) (D), and from 0.5 to 30% by weight of solid fatty substances (H) chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and their mixture, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional Compound A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound selected from fillers, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Charges A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to make-up. They are distinct from the dyestuffs Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine or fumed silica particles, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof. A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Semi-crystalline polymer The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer, in particular a semi-crystalline polymer with an organic structure whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer (s) represents from 2 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, for example from 3 to 15% by weight, and better still from 4 to 10%. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The term "organic compound" or "organic structure" means compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C.

The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram). The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.

By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) cry stalli sand (s) - the polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, - the polycondensates of polyester type, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis. The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP-A-0 951 897, - polycondensates, and in particular of polyester type, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US Pat. No. 5,156,911, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO-A-01/19333, and mixtures thereof.

By way of example of semicrystalline polymers, mention may be made, for example, of those described in application WO 2010/010301, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

AQUEOUS PHASE As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of water, preferably at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15% to 60% by weight, and better still from 20% to 60% by weight. % to 50% by weight, based on its total weight. The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of the composition. By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a MPC227 conductivity meter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. Preferably, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, said mono-alcohol (s) comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms are chosen from ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol. However, the previously indicated aqueous phase content does not include the contents of each of the compounds evoked.

Active ingredients The composition may further comprise at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents, cicatrizing agents and / or anti-aging agents, keratinous substances, in particular skin and / or lips, and better lipsticks.

According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a process for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, and better still of the lips, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials . The deposit made with a composition according to the invention having a good level of resistance, it ensures the persistence of the active ingredient on keratin materials and thus improve the effectiveness of the care (moisturizing effect, healing and / or anti-aging) of said keratin materials. Moisturizing Agents According to a first embodiment, the composition may further comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant). As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 8, and more preferably C 3 -C 6, such as preferably glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, and their mixture, glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea) marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of imperata cylindra marketed under the denomination Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as LipidureHM® from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids °; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB °"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizing agent chosen from glycerol, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HIVI® NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB®"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Healing Agents The active ingredient may also be selected from the healing agents. Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeasts extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes® TRF® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience's GP4G®, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Souci Ami® Liposolible, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Cosmetochem's Herbasol® lemon, extracts of helichryse, extracts of millefeuilles, folic acid, betaglucan and de rivets, shea butter and purified fractions thereof, modified exopolysaccharides and alkylsulfonated polyaminosaccharides.

Anti-aging agents The active agent may also be chosen from anti-aging agents, that is to say having a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier, the anti-glycation agents, the active agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells and their mixtures.

The agent having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier may be chosen from an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane®, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y ('d' Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen Gattefossé ®, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name "Phytosphingosine SLC" by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® Seppic solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® Coletica and their mixtures, which may be mentioned in particular ceramides, compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, s essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives and mixtures thereof. Preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier are Thermus thermophilus extract, wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract and their mixtures. By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen. Examples of anti-glycation agents are the plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by the company COSMETOCHEM, the ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol). under the name "ALISTIN"), an extract of Hélainthus annuus such as Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extracts such as the white wine powder extract on a maltodextrin support sold under the name "White wine" dehydrated 2F "by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka® Sederma and their mixtures. The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisaie such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium salts, of manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone acid. carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and mixtures thereof. The active ingredients employed in the compositions according to the invention may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. Preferably, the composition may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent, chosen from hydrating agents, cicatrizing agents and anti-aging agents. Indeed, the composition according to the invention comprising water, it is particularly suitable for the introduction of hydrophilic active ingredients into the composition, in particular without stability problems of the composition and / or the active ingredient. is particularly interesting, especially in the context of lip care. Indeed, the conventional lipstick compositions known in the prior art, whether solid or liquid, rarely include water and, if they contain, are generally unstable over time (ie that they exhibit phenomena of phase shift or exudation). Preferably, the active agent may be chosen from: polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 8 alcohols, and still more preferably C 3 -C 6 alcohols, such as glycerine, propylene glycol or 1,3-butylene; glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, and their mixture, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine, collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight); spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen), spheres of hyaluronic acid; ceramides such as preferably ceramide V.

Preferably, the active content in the composition ranges from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic actives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the adj anointing considered. Dyestuffs A composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one dyestuff. Preferably, the latter is chosen from water-soluble or non-fat soluble or non-soluble, organic or inorganic dyestuffs, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff. The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents that are miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na, CI: 15850), DC can be mentioned. Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na Salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570); ), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090). By way of non-limiting illustration of sources of water-soluble dye (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin. Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanine, anthocyanins, enocyanines, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flovoxanthine, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthine, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof. It may also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and disodium fuschine salt. Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the family of carotenoids, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble coloring substance (s) to be transferred onto the skin and / or the lips intended to be made up, are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium of to be compatible with impregnation at the substrate.

The water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0 to 8% by weight. , 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring material (s) are chosen from the di-sodium salt of bright yellow. FCF marketed by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the di-sodium salt of acidic fuchsin D marketed by LCW under the name DC Red 33, the tri-sodium salt of the Allura Red marketed by LCW under the name FD & C Red 40. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes as dyestuffs. According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the water-soluble dyestuffs described above, one or more additional dyestuffs, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments, such as reflecting pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures. The organic pigments may be for example: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes; organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic dyes, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group; melanic pigments.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10 , D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. ° 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic), distinct from alkycellulose and in particular different from ethylcellulose, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the adj ulation envisaged.

A composition according to the invention may be more particularly a composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, and better lips. A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or an antisolar product. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in liquid form. As an illustration of liquid formulations, mention may be made of lip gloss and / or more generally liquid lipsticks.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is a liquid lipstick. As indicated above, a composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. It can be provided that during the preparation process, at the end of the necessary heating step to melt the fatty substance (s) present, in particular the waxes, the composition remains stirred until it has returned to ambient temperature. Indeed, this makes it possible to obtain a fluid texture, even in the presence of a wax content which would make it possible to obtain a solid composition if the stirring was interrupted earlier, namely as soon as it was obtained. a homogeneous mixture, and therefore before the composition has returned to room temperature As stated above, the composition according to the invention is homogeneous and provides access to a deposit having good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of strength, comfort (thin and light deposit) and non-sticky.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ..." must be understood as inclusive terms, unless otherwise specified.

The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. EXAMPLES 1 to 5: The compositions for the following lips comprise the raw materials indicated below and are obtained by carrying out the preparation protocol described below. Compositions 2 and 4 illustrate the present invention. Compositions 1, 3 and 5 are comparative compositions outside the invention. INCI name and Composition 2 according to Composition Composition 4 according to Composition Composition Composition Comparative Comparative References Comparative iti * Comparative 1 out of 3 5 * out of the invention * invention * invention Di-sodium salt of acid fuchsin D, di-sodium salt of tartrazine and trisodium salt of Allura- 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Red Phenoxy ethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylcellulose 32.97 * 32.97 * 32.97 * 32.97 * 32.97 * 26.2% in water; Sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol (2.5%) / AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Octyldodecanol 32.97 - - - - Coco-glycerides - 7 32.97 - - Hydrogenated (mixture of acids fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid) (SOFTISAN 100 by CREMER OLEO) Olive ester wax - - - 7 32,97 hydrogenated myristyl (PHYTOWAX OLIVE 14L48 of SOPHIM) Hydroxypropyl 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 guar (Rhodia JAGUAR HP 105) Trimethylsil 23 23 23 23 23 oxyphenyl dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker) Ethyl alcohol 3 3 3 3 3 96 degrees undenatured Water 3.06 29.03 3.06 29.03 3.06 Mixture of 4 4 4 4 4 sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate (Croda Arlatone 2121U) TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100 *% by weight (expressed by weight of commercial product). Preparation Protocol 1) The aqueous dispersion of Ethyl-Cellulose was mixed with water, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) and the solid fatty substances (pasty fatty substance and / or waxes) with Rayneri stirring and heated. during 1h to 2h at 55 ° C. 2) The surfactant and hydroxypropyl guar were added and mixed with stirring at 55 ° C until the mixture was homogeneous and heating of the composition was stopped. 3) The dyes previously dissolved in water (3.06%) were then added. 4) The non-volatile silicone oil is then added, while stirring. Finally, alcohol and phenoxy ethanol were added with stirring. 6) The stirring of the compositions was maintained until they reached room temperature. 7) The stirring was then stopped and the mixture was conditioned in hot-water bottles for the compositions 1, 2 and 4 and the compositions 3 and 5 were poured into pots. 8) The compositions were then left to rest for 24 hours at room temperature. room.

Next, the homogeneity, the stickiness, the non-transfer properties, the strength as well as the gloss of the compositions 1 to 5 were evaluated. The homogeneity and brightness of the compositions 1 to 5 are evaluated visually, by comparison of the different compositions between them.

The non-stickiness, non-transfer properties and strength of compositions 1 to 5 were evaluated using the following protocols.

Protocol for Evaluating the Sticky Character: A sample of the composition was applied to the lips so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness. The stickiness was evaluated during the drying of the formula after 2 minutes after application at room temperature (25 ° C). For this, a finger was applied, at the end of the specified drying time, on the deposit made with the composition to be evaluated and the sticky was appreciated by the subject with the removal of his finger of the applied formula.

Evaluation test of the non-transfer: A sample of the composition was applied to the lips using an applicator by making 2 passes. It was allowed to dry for 5 minutes and then the subject made a kiss on a sheet of white paper. The color transfer was evaluated qualitatively by observing the amount of color deposited.

Performance evaluation test: A sample of the composition was applied to the lips using an applicator by making 2 passes. After 1 hour, the quantity and quality of the product remaining on the lips was observed.

Results of the evaluations: Composition Composition Composition Composition Comparative Composition 1 2 According to Comparative 4 According to Comparative Excluding the Invention * The Invention * 3 Excluding the Invention * 5 * Excluding Invention * Invention Appearance of the Composition After 24 Hours at Room Temperature Cream Fluid fluid Composition solid, very hard, very compact homogeneous homogeneous homogeneous Appearance of the fluid fluid cream Fluid paste Composition homogeneous homogeneous composition relatively hard homogeneous solid, very after 1 very hard, week at very compact ambient temperature Homogeneity of the deposit +++ ++ + + ++ _ Character + (slightly +++ (no +++ +++ - (quite Sticky Non-sticky) sticky) (no (not sticky) sticky) sticky) got No- - (light ++) + (no ++ +++ - transfer transfer) transfer) (very little (no (slight transfer) transfer) transfer) Attitude + ++ + +++ - Brilliance Shine Shine Shine Mat - medium average Rem arches Bold and slippery Application Texture Application Too thick / hard to be made up with soft application and not stable soft. melting. in the Deposit Deposit time: the unctuous. unctuous and pleasant composition. hardened at the end of the week +++: very good; ++: good; +: average; - : bad. In the comparative compositions outside the invention 3 and 5, the octyldodecanol hydrocarbon oil present in the comparative composition 1 has been replaced weight for weight by a hydrocarbon solid fatty substance (respectively a pasty fatty substance and a wax). In the compositions according to the invention 2 and 4, the 32.97% of octyldodecanol hydrocarbon oil present in the comparative composition 1 was replaced by 7% of a hydrocarbon solid fatty substance (respectively a pasty fatty substance and a wax). and 25.97% by weight of water. Comparative compositions outside the invention 3 and 5 comprising more than 30% waxes or pasty fatty substances are not stable over time. Indeed, the composition 3 had the texture of a relatively creamy cream after 24 hours at room temperature. However, it hardened after 1 week at room temperature to form a relatively hard paste. Similarly, the composition 5, already lasts 24 hours at room temperature, continued to harden even more after 1 week at room temperature. It is of course essential that the compositions according to the invention be stable at room temperature, both in terms of homogeneity and viscosity or hardness for at least 1 week. In addition, the composition 5 is not homogeneous and therefore could not be evaluated (not makeup because too hard and too thick). The compositions 1, 2 and 4 are homogeneous and stable over time. In addition, the compositions according to the invention 2 and 4 are fluid, easy to apply, and their deposition is easy and homogeneous on the lips, as is the comparative composition 1 outside the invention.

However, compared with the composition 1 outside the invention, the deposits obtained on the lips with the compositions according to the invention 2 and 4 are completely free of tack (ie they do not generate any feeling of stickiness) and totally non-transfer, whereas the composition 1 outside the invention sticks and transfers slightly. In addition, although the deposit obtained with the composition 1 has an acceptable level of withstand, the compositions according to the invention 2 and 4 have a better performance than the comparative composition 1. Finally, the compositions 2 and 4 according to the invention are more unctuous and soft to the application than the comparative composition 1. In addition, the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention 2 is glossy, and the deposit obtained with the composition 4 is matt. The makeup deposit obtained with compositions 2 and 4 according to the invention is fine and light.

Claims (30)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to its total weight; (B) at least one of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and more preferably ethylcellulose; (C) at least one first non-volatile oil (C) selected from silicone and / or fluorinated oils; (D) at least one stabilizing agent selected from surfactants and / or hydrophilic gelling agents; (H) at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and their mixture; and with said composition being free of octyldodecanol or having an octyldodecanol content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, based on its total weight. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil emulsion (s) in-water. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free or comprises a total content of C10-C26 alcohols less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free or in that it comprises a total content less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight in second (s) oil (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon (s) (E) chosen from: - alcohols C10-C26, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and - their mixtures. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is present in a content ranging from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 4 to 50% by weight, better still from 5 to 30% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first non-volatile oil (C) is chosen from phenyl silicone oils, preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones, and mixtures thereof, and preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content ranging from 5 to 75% by weight of first (s) non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s) and / or fluorinated (s) (C), in particular from 5 to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to its total weight. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content of first (s) non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s) and / or fluorinated (s) (C) variant from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase of said composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that octyldodecanol, C10-C26 alcohols, or the said second (s) hydrocarbon oil (s) non-volatile (s) (E). ) is / are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight. % by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is free of octylodecanol, preferably is free of alcohol (s) C10-C26, and is better free of the said second (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E). 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15% to 60%. by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 50%, by weight, based on its total weight. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizing agent (D) is a surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant, more particularly chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, preferably not polyoxyethylenated. and better a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the stabilizing agent (D) is a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, preferably such as gums. guar possibly modified. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty substance is a wax, said wax being preferably chosen from waxes having a melting temperature below 65 ° C., and better still below 63 ° C. . 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from paraffin wax, stearic alcohol, synthetic beeswax, palm butter, Sumac wax, wax silicone bee, stearyl stearate, alkyl dimethicone wax, polymethylene waxes, berry wax, olive oil wax, lemon wax, ceresin wax, and mixtures thereof. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises between 0.1 and 30% by weight of wax (es), preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, and better between 1 and and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance, said pasty fatty substance being chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyl side chain polydimethylsiloxanes or alkoxy having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, - fluorinated polymeric or non-polymeric compounds, - vinyl polymers, in particular: - homopolymers of olefins, - copolymers of olefins, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates having preferably this is a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, and the fat-soluble polyethers resulting therefrom. polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. 19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 and 18, characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is an ester or a polyester or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from: - esters of an oligomeric glycerol, especially the diglycerol esters, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid; or having reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid, - phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C16-40 alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol, and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid at C18-40, such as the tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms, and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecylicosanol (36 carbon atoms); the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, the polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid; and an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester; the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid. 20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 and 18 to 19, characterized in that said composition comprises between 0.5% to 30% by weight of pasty fatty substance, preferably between 1% to 20% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: from 4 to 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, from 15 to 60% by weight of water, from 5 to 60% by weight of nonvolatile silicone oils (C), from 0.1 to 30% by weight of stabilizing agent (s) (D), and from 0.5 to 30% by weight of stabilizing agent (s) (D); % by total weight of solid fatty substance (s) (H) chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and their mixture, relative to the total weight of the composition. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least a third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (F) distinct from the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (s). ) (E), preferably present in a total content of from 1% to 75% by weight, preferably from 5% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, based on its total weight. 23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the third (s) oil (s) nonvolatile hydrocarbon (s) additional (s) (F) is / are selected from: - the alcoholic oils comprising at least 27 carbon atoms, preferably diisostearyl malate; ester oils obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from neopentanoic acid esters, preferably chosen from octy1-2-dodecyl neopentanoate and isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, diisostearyl malate, and mixtures thereof; ester oils obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; ester oils comprising at least 23 carbon atoms; oils comprising at least one carbonate function; and - their mixtures. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff. 25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional compound selected from fillers, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof. 26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in liquid form. 27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has at 25 ° C a viscosity of between 0.2 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 1 and 20 Pa.s. 28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said composition is a make-up composition and / or of a variety of keratinous substances, in particular lips and / or skin, and better lipsticks, and more particularly a lipstick or lip gloss. 29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a total content of less than or equal to 10% by weight of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms, preferably less than or equal to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better is free of C2-C8 monoalcohol (s), said C2 / C8 mono-alcohol (s) being preferably selected from ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol. 30. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and better still for the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratinous substances at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 29.