FR2985179A1 - Solid composition used as lipstick for making up and/or caring of lips, comprises water, alkylcellulose, nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, anionic surfactant consisting of e.g. metallic salts of linear fatty acid, and non-ionic surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Solid composition comprises: water; 1-6C, preferably 1-3C alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose; first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consisting of e.g. 10-26C alcohol, preferably monoalcohol, monomers, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxyl group or 2-8C mono or polycarboxylic acid; second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consisting of silicone and/or fluoro oil; anionic surfactant consisting of metallic salts of 16-25C linear fatty acid, preferably metallic salts of stearic acid and/or behenic acid, and additional surfactant such as non-ionic surfactant. Solid composition comprises: 5 wt.% of water; 1-6C, preferably 1-3C alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose; first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consisting of 10-26C alcohol, preferably monoalcohol, monomers, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxyl group, 2-8C mono or polycarboxylic acid, 2-8C alcohol, optionally hydroxyl group, 2-8C polyol ester and 2-8C carboxylic acid; second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consisting of silicone and/or fluoro oil; anionic surfactant consisting of metallic salts of 16-25C linear fatty acid, preferably metallic salts of stearic acid and/or behenic acid, preferably sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearate; and additional surfactant such as non-ionic surfactant, preferably optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkyl- glycol ester including polyethylene glycol (PEG)-150 distearate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.

Description

The present invention aims at providing solid cosmetic compositions comprising alkylcellulose, in particular dedicated to the makeup and / or care of the lips or skin, in particular the lips, capable of providing a deposit, in particular of make-up, presenting good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of comfort, non-stickiness and shine. The compositions according to the invention are more specifically aqueous solid compositions, preferably in the form of a stick. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and / or the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. In fact, obtaining an aesthetic effect, after the application of a cosmetic composition, results from a set of properties intrinsic to the composition that are expressed in terms of makeup performance, cosmetic properties such as the comfort to the application (ease of disintegration and / or slippery application) and port, homogeneity, lightness and a satisfactory brightness of the deposit made with the composition. In particular, obtaining a solid composition, for example in stick form, sufficiently hard not to break during application while disintegrating easily during application, and which is homogeneous and stable in the time at 24 ° C and 45 ° C, and whose deposit on the skin or lips is light and of satisfactory gloss, is a permanent concern of formulators working in the field of lipsticks, and other care products skin and / or lips (such as balms, for example). Ethylcellulose, is already known in cosmetic and / or therapeutic compositions, as a film-forming agent, to facilitate the formation of a film on the skin and / or the lips, and to improve the resistance to water of this film. Unfortunately, ethylcellulose, and generally alkylcelluloses (with an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms) has limited solubility in most solvents commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations. In general, monoalcohols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for solubilizing sufficient quantities of ethylcellulose in cosmetic compositions or pharmaceuticals. The evaporation of C2-C8 monoalcohols leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, on the one hand to a concentration of the deposit and, on the other hand, to the formation of a coating. surface of the skin or lips having a very good behavior. For example, the document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions comprising especially ethylcellulose solubilized in ethyl alcohol (solvents "SDA 38B-190" or "SDA 40B-190").

However, these volatile mono-alcohols have the disadvantage of being potentially irritating to the skin and / or the lips, and therefore can be detrimental during repeated use on the skin. In order to overcome this problem, it has been proposed in US Pat. No. 5,908,631 to use, as an alternative to C2-C8 monoalcohols, a certain number of solvents for ethylcellulose, such as lanolin oil, certain triglycerides. , certain propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol esters, isostearyl lactate and mixtures thereof. Unfortunately, the substitution of volatile C2-C8 mono-alcohols by these non-volatile solvents may, on the other hand, be detrimental in terms of comfort and feel of the resulting deposit.

Therefore, there remains the need to have cosmetic compositions, free of C2-C8 monoalcohols, comprising a sufficient amount of alkylcellulose, and able to form a deposit on the skin and / or the lips, and having properties shine, comfort, and that is non-sticky. More particularly, there is a need for solid makeup compositions and / or care of the skin and / or lips, homogeneous and stable over time (especially for 72 hours at 24 ° C. and for 72 hours at 45 ° C. ), in particular which do not phase out and which do not form grains), sufficiently strong not to break during the application while being easy to apply (sliding and / or easy disintegration), and making it possible to obtain a thin, light and fresh deposit, homogeneous, non-migrating, in particular not or slightly tacky and of satisfactory gloss, and advantageously having, according to some embodiments, a satisfactory level of withstand. The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs.

As can be seen from the examples presented below, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to satisfy the aforementioned expectations by formulating the alkylcellulose in the form of a dispersion in water, with a mixture of specific oils distinct from monoalcohols. in C2-C8.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least water, preferably at least 5% by weight of water; at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose, preferably at least 5% of ethylcellulose; at least one first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil chosen from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxyls, of a C2-C8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or hydrocarbon-based oils different from said first oil; ; at least one anionic surfactant chosen from linear C16-C25 fatty acid metal salts, preferably metal salts of stearic acid and / or of behenic acid, preferably chosen from sodium stearate and potassium stearate; sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearates; at least one additional surfactant, said additional surfactant preferably being a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, preferably chosen from PEG-150 distearate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate; and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is homogeneous, sufficiently solid to be in the form of a stick, stable (no exudation phenomenon or phase shift) over time (especially after 72 hours, or even 1 month at 24 ° C and 45 ° C), easy to apply (sliding and / or easy disintegration) on the skin and / or lips and provides access to a homogeneous deposit, presenting light, fresh and non-migrating and not or little tack while having a satisfactory gloss Preferably, the composition is a makeup composition and / or care of the skin and / or lips. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is a product for the lips. More preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lipstick or a lip balm, preferably in the form of a stick. The composition according to the invention may also be cast in a pot or in a dish.

The composition according to the invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips. A composition according to the invention is also particularly suitable for the use of water-soluble dyes. As is apparent from the examples below, the combination of oils considered according to the invention is particularly advantageous for formulating the alkylcelluloses, preferably such as ethylcellulose, within said composition. A composition according to the invention advantageously allows the implementation of an effective amount of alkylcellulose. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" is understood to mean an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect, as described above. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1%, and particularly preferably at least 4% by weight (in dry matter) of alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose), relative to the total weight of the composition. . In a particularly preferred manner, a composition according to the invention comprises from 4 to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose), and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. . By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin and / or the lips.

The composition according to the invention is in solid form. By "solid" is meant a composition whose hardness measured according to the preceding protocol is greater than or equal to 30 Nm-1 at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Protocol for measuring the hardness: The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The lipstick is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. diameter 250 i.tm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm-1, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO-CHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and then divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nm-1 by the following equation: (Yx 10-3 x 9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept for 24 hours at this new temperature before measurement. According to this measuring method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 35 Nm. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, in particular, a hardness of 20. C. less than 300 Nm-1 in particular less than 200 Nm-1, preferably less than 150 Nm-1.

The compositions obtained preferably have a hardness of between 30 and 115 Nm-1, preferably 35 and 80 Nm-1. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a stick, preferably of diameter 12.7 mm.

A composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an oil emulsion in an aqueous phase, conventionally called "oil-in-water emulsion". Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a solid lipstick, such as a lipstick stick, a lip balm or a lipstick cast in a dish, for example. By "balm" is meant a solid composition, colored or otherwise, generally intended for the care of the lips, preferably due to the presence of a hydrophilic active agent.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant (s), in particular less than 4% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even totally free of silicone surfactant. According to another of its aspects, the present application relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips and / or the skin, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to the lips and / or the skin at least one composition as defined above ETHYLCELLULOSE A composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) is present in a composition according to the invention in a content (in dry matter) greater than or equal to 4% by weight. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) is present in a composition according to the invention in a content (in dry matter) ranging from 1 to 60% by weight. Preferably, the alkylcellulose is present in a content of between 2 and 60% by weight and more preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition. In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises from 4 to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to to the total weight of said composition. The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain consisting of P-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2FIsC1 → ROC21-15 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical. Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. It is an ethyl cellulose ether. The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to an alkoxy group content of 54.88%. The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, that is to say comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%. According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) is used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a latex or pseudolatex type dispersion. . The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

Particularly suitable as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, the product marketed by FMC Biopolymer under the name "AQUACOAT ECD-30", which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose at a rate of about 26.2% by weight (in water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product "AQUACOAT ECD", can be used in a proportion of 3 to 90% by weight, in particular from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion relative to the total weight of the composition As mentioned above, the alkylcellulose is used according to the present invention, in combination with a mixture of oils as described more particularly below.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin and / or the lips, such as water, oils or organic solvents commonly used in the cosmetic compositions. The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerability, toxicology and acceptable touch) is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. FATTY PHASE The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase and in particular a liquid fatty phase, at least one first non-volatile hydrocarbon-specific oil and at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

FIRST SPECIFIC HYDROCARBONIC NON-VOLATILE OIL The composition according to the invention comprises one or more first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) chosen from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; preferably branched; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, said "first oil" is chosen from: - C10-C26 monoalcohols, preferably branched - monoesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol; - the diester, optionally hydroxylated; a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol; the optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic triacid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of an oxygen atom and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. L hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

In the present case, said first oils comprise at least one oxygen atom. In particular, said first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") and / or at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") and / or at least one an ester function (it is then an "ester oil"). The ester oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) in a total content ranging from 5% to 75%, in particular of 8% to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 35% by weight, based on its total weight. In particular from 8% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and the alkylcellulose ( in particular ethylcellulose) are used in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio "first) oil (s)" non-volatile (s) hydrocarbon (s) / alkylcellulose between 1 and 20, preferably between 2 and 15. In a particularly preferred manner, the weight ratio "first (s) oil (s)" non-volatile (s) hydrocarbon (s) / alkylcellulose is between 3 and 10. Preferably between 0.5 and 20 , more preferably between 1 and 15, particularly preferably between 2 and 10. More particularly, the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil used in a composition according to the invention may in particular have properties as a step A plasticizer, that is to say, to give flexibility and comfort to the deposit formed with the composition according to the invention. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, said first oil is a C10-C26 alcohol, preferably a monoalcohol, preferably branched when it comprises at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms. Preferably, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or else natural, for example alcohols derived from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow ...). Of course, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols. Finally, we can also use some cuts more or less long t. alcohols of natural origin, such as coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or diol or cholesterol type compounds. It is preferable to use a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcoholic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or alcohol. hexyldecyl, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said first oil is chosen from octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said first oil is octyldodecanol. According to a second embodiment, said first oil is an ester oil chosen from: - monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, - the diester of a dicarboxylic acid C2-C8 and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, triesters of a C2-C8 triacid carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-carboxylic acids; C8, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or triesters of glycol and monoacids such as triacetin.

SECOND NON-VOLATILE OIL SILICONE AND / OR FLUORATED According to one of its aspects, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the non-volatile oil (s) chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils is / are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight. weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, or from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicone (preferably phenyl) and / or fluorinated nonvolatile oils, in a proportion of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, particularly preferably from 10 to 45% by weight. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) of between 40 and 80% by weight, preferably between 45 and 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention. in a weight ratio nonvolatile oil (s) / alkylcellulose of between 1 and 20, preferably between 4 and 15. Non-volatile silicone oil According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is a silicone oil .

By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one Si atom. The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may especially be chosen from silicone oils having in particular a viscosity at 25 ° C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes ( cSt) (9 x 10-6 m 2 / s), and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone can be measured according to ASTM D-445. According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenyl silicone oil.

The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, carbon, PDMSs comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as a linear (ie non-cyclic) oil representative of these non-volatile linear silicone oils. and not phenylated, there may be mentioned polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. The non-phenyl silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the silicones of formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are , together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p being integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt. Non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention include the compounds of formula (I) for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt, as that sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, that sold under the name AK 500000 by Waker, the one sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Bluestar and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by Dow Corning Corporation. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by Dow Corning and that sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning. the substituents R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as that sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive. According to a second embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil as a second non-volatile oil. As representative of these phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of: the phenylated silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein OR (I) in which R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. For example, mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or pentaphenyl. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: Ph Ph Ph Me-Si-o-Si-o-Si-Me Ph Me Ph (III) in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group --OsiMe3 and y is 0 or varies between 1 and 1000, z varies between 1 and 1000, so that the compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl Siloxyphenyl Dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference BELSIL PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment y is equal to 0. It is possible to use for example PHENYL TRIMETHYLSILOXY TRISILOXANE, in particular sold under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their mixtures: R, R, R, R, R, R, Si-O Si R, SiO 0 R, O ps 11:03 R1 m (VI in which: R1 to R10, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C1-C30, m, n, p and q are independently of one another; , integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from 0. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. - the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII), and mixtures thereof : R 1 R 5 R 5 H, C - Si 0 Si 0 Si CH, R 2 R 4 R 6 -pm (VII) in which: R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched linear or saturated hydrocarbon radicals or unsaturated radicals; , in C1-C3o, m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of one another; others, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, Ci-C30, especially C1-C12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl.

In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and their mixtures: ## STR2 ## wherein R is a radical; C1-C30 alkyl, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m varies from 1 In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 previously defined, may each represent a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, in particular C2-C20, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C4-C10, or a C6-C14 mono- or polycyclic aryl radical, especially C10-C13 or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl radicals are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, it is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt).

Phenyltrimethicones of formula (VIII), such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones, such as oils, can be used as phenyltrimethicone silicone oil. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately , an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, carbon, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a molecular weight by mass of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably lower at 100,000 g / mol. the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention varies from 500 to 10,000 g / mol. As an example of preferred nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as: phenyl silicones (also called phenyl silicone oil) such as trimethylsiloxyethylene dimethicone (such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol) (see formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as that sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 H1H cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf formula (III) above), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; - and their mixtures. Preferably, the second non-volatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil. Preferably, a phenyl silicone oil is used. According to a preferred embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil (s) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Non-volatile fluorinated oil According to a second embodiment, the second non-volatile oil is a fluorinated oil. By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds.

By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils.

As examples of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products marketed by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals. ADDITIONAL NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL: The composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from said first oil. According to a first embodiment, the additional nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils. By "apolar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, Sa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - 8D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and - 8a is determined by the equation: Sa = (S1,2 + 8h2) 1/4.

The parameters 8p, 811, 8D and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atom.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, petrolatum oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 ( MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / ml). mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogen polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, different from said "first oil". In particular, the additional non-volatile polar oil different from said first oil may be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters. The ester oils can be hydroxylated. Preferably, they are non-hydroxylated. The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from: monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is 18, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononanoate of isononyl, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, octy1-2 dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl ester, isostearyl, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hr laurate exyl decyl, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. In a preferred manner, they are esters of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. carbon, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, there may be mentioned isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octy1-2-docecyl neopentanoate; diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (especially such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo); the triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as the triesters of triacid carboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2; tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl of tetraisostearate, tetraisononate of pentaerythrityl, glyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl2 tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer of dicarboxylic acid, in particular being obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C 8 to C 34, in particular C 12 to C 22, in particular C 16 to C 20, and more particularly to C 18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®; vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, for instance that sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also known as Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as triglycerides fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), especially fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular triglycerides may be mentioned saturated such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; - and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the additional oil is a nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oil, different from said first oil. Preferably, according to this embodiment, it is chosen from vegetable oils, preferably from triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and / or their mixtures. Preferably, according to this embodiment, non-volatile polar oil is chosen from saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof.

Additional Volatile Oils The composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional volatile oil. In particular, the additional oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and / or volatile fluorinated oils. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40 000 Pa (101 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, or a fluorinated oil. According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and can in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. As additional volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a fluorinated oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar. The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably from 40 ° C to 55 ° C, and preferably from 40 ° C to 50 ° C.

The additional volatile hydrocarbon oil may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and ntetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n- tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably less than 5%. According to a particular embodiment, the composition may be free of monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of additional volatile oil. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of non-volatile oil (s) ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises between 2 and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, between 15 and 70% by weight of water, and between 25 and 75% by total weight of non-volatile oils. Preferably between 15% and 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid fatty substances: The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and / or pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. By "wax" is meant in the sense of the invention, a lipophilic compound, solid to. room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid state / liquid change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 120 ° C. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricurry wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and wax of wax. sumac; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and wax copolymers and their esters.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-methyl tetrastearate, (trimethyl-1-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di (1,1,1-trimethyltrimethylolpropane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. By way of wax, mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 Alkyl dimethicone) and fluorinated waxes. By way of wax, it is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As a wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or in mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 Pc", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen. Preferably, when a wax is present in the composition, it is chosen from waxes whose melting temperature (Tf) is less than or equal to 66 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 65 ° C. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of Tf less than or equal to 66 ° C., preferably chosen from: Candelilla wax (64.3 ° C.), polyglycerolated beeswax (63.1 ° C), ceresin wax (60.1 ° C), Ultrabee WD (61.3 ° C), pentaerylthrityl tetrastearate (63.0 ° C), tetracontanyl stearate (65.1 ° C), fatty acid wax (63.7 ° C); bee wax (62.6 ° C), Montan wax (63.4 ° C), sucrose polybutenate (64.1 ° C), Koster KPC-60 (61.7 ° C). ), Koster KPC-63 (65.2 ° C), ESTERS OF OLIVE OIL AND STEARYL ALCOHOL HYDROGENES (57 ° C) marketed under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18 L 57 by the company Sophim, the HYDROGENATED PALM OIL marketed under the reference GV 60 by SIO (ADM), the POLYMETHYLENE WAX (54 °) marketed under the reference Cirebelle 303 by Cirebelle; POLYMETHYLENE WAX (40 ° C) marketed under the reference Cirebelle 505 by Cirebelle, TRI-BEHENATE GLYCERYLE (60 ° C) marketed under the reference SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (MH) by Croda, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition may comprise, as a wax, the melting point of which is below 66 ° C., a polymethylene wax, preferably a wax chosen from the POLYMETHYLENE WAX (54 °) marketed under the reference Cirebelle 303 by Cirebelle. ; POLYMETHYLENE WAX (40 ° C) marketed under the reference Cirebelle 505 by Cirebelle, According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition is free of wax of Tf greater than 66 ° C. Indeed, during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, the introduction of a wax of Tf greater than 66 ° C, such as polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax or carnauba wax, for example, can lead to the formation of lumps and balls, and thus prevent the obtaining of a smooth and homogeneous composition.

By way of illustration, such waxes are in particular Carnauba wax (82.3 ° C.), Ozokerite (66.8 ° C.), microcrystalline wax (83.3 ° C.), polyethylene wax for example sold under ASENSA SC 211 by Honeywell (95.6 ° C), AC 540 wax (98.4 ° C), hydroxystearate of hydroxyoctasosanyl (76.8 ° C), hydrogenated castor wax (81, 7 ° C), AC400 wax (86.3 ° C), polyethylene wax for example sold under the name PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE of New Phase Technologies (77.3 ° C), hydrogenated Jojoba wax (69.3 ° C), , 4 ° C), rice bran wax (78.6 ° C), tricontanyl / PVP copolymer (68.8 ° C), octacosanyl stearate (72.5 ° C), polyethylene wax for example sold under the name PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE from New Phase Technologies (71.8 ° C), the polyethylene wax for example sold under the name PERFORMALENE 655 POLYETHYLENE from New Phase Technologies (92.9 ° C), the wax of polyethylenated alcohol (95.7 ° C), Koster K82P (69.6 ° C), polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane (67.8 ° C), polyethylenated alcohol wax (76.2 ° C), Fischer- Tropsch (79.3 ° C), behenyl alcohol (66.9 ° C), Chinese insect wax (81.1 ° C), Shellac wax (73.8 ° C), behenyl fumarate (74.5 ° C), didotriacontanyl distearate (70.7 ° C), Betawax RX-13750 (72.0 ° C), dipentaerythrytole hexastearate (67.7 ° C), ditrimethylolpropane tetrabenenate (67.5 ° C), Phytowax Ricin 16 L 64 (69.1 ° C), Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 (76.6 ° C), Ouricury wax (81.0 ° C), and their mixtures. Preferably, the wax content is between 0.5% and 30% by weight, especially between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying silicone wax: According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone wax, preferably such as the product whose INCI name is BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, in particular marketed under the reference Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax by Dow Corning. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight, or better still, from 2% to 15% by total weight of this silicone wax, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the wax is chosen from emulsifying silicone wax and / or polymethylene wax and / or candelilla wax. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise additional wax, different from BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane. Pasty fatty substance The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as pasty fatty substance) is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments . The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines; Vaseline, in particular the one whose INCI name is petrolatum and marketed under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol ethers and of sugar, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- 5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil. - Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - Polymeric fluorinated compounds or non-vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, and especially vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers, for example that sold under the name ANTARON V- 220 (also known as Ganex V220) by the company ISP; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group; Homopolymeric oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups - homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, - liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols preferably C2-050, esters, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the trademark Softisan 649 by the Sasol company, homopolymers of vinyl ester having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as for example fatty acid triglycerides, especially C10-C18, partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, the pentaerythritol esters, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a polyol in C2-050, the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures, - mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, - hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, oil mixtures hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the Akogel® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oi) 1), shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds, bisbehenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimeric dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, dimerized hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, preferably hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, polyvinyl laurate, mango butter, shea butter, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene or their mixture. The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition used according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, and their mixtures. Semi-crystalline polymer The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. In particular a semicrystalline polymer with an organic structure whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer (s) represents from 2 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, for example from 3 to 15% by weight, and better still from 4 to 10%. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The term "organic compound" or "organic structure" means compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C.

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a temperature increase of 5%. or 10 ° C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram). The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips. According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.

By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) cry stalli sand (s) - the polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, - the polycondensates of polyester type, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis. The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP-A-0 951 897, - polycondensates, and in particular of polyester type, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US Pat. No. 5,156,911, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO-A-01/19333, and mixtures thereof. By way of example of semicrystalline polymers, mention may be made, for example, of those described in patent application WO 2010/010301. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable lateral chain (s) hydrophobic (s) crystallizable preferably, it is chosen from among the POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE, preferably such as STARYARY POLY ACRYLATE, in particular sold under the reference INTELIMER IPA 13-1 by the company AIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS, and also the POLY ACRYLATE OF BEHENYL , in particular sold under the reference INTELIMER IPA 13-6 by the company AIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS. AQUEOUS PHASE As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises water. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 2%, preferably at least 5% by weight of water, preferably at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water may be present in a total content of from 2 to 80% by weight. Preferably, the water is present in a content ranging from 15 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent. The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of the composition. By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter. MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight. In a particularly preferred manner, the aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight, of preferred way of 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and / or at least one hydrophilic thickener and / or at least one surfactant. However, the previously indicated aqueous phase content does not include the contents of each of the compounds evoked.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. SURFACE ACTIVE AGENT: The composition according to the invention comprises at least two surfactants. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one anionic surfactant chosen from linear C16-C25 fatty acid metal salts, preferably metal salts of stearic acid and / or of behenic acid, preferably selected from sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearates; and - at least one additional surfactant / Preferably, the composition is such that the total content of surfactant is between 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, said surfactants are present in a content such that the weight ratio of the total content of non-volatile oils / surfactant content (s) is between 0.5 and 40, preferably between 1 and 35. Preferably, they are present in a weight ratio total content of non-volatile oils / surfactant content (s) of between 1.5 and 30. Preferably, the composition is such that the surfactant chosen from linear fatty acid metal salts in C16-C25, preferably the metal salts of stearic acid and / or behenic acid, is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is present in a content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particularly preferred manner, the surfactant chosen from linear C16-C25 fatty acid metal salts, preferably metal salts of stearic acid and / or of behenic acid, preferably chosen from sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearates, is present in a content greater than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is present in a content ranging from 2.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional surfactant: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional test agent, different from a metal salt of linear C16-C25 fatty acids. Preferably, the composition, the additional surfactant, is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10%.

Advantageously, the total content of surfactant is such that the weight ratio total content of non-volatile oils / total content of surfactant (s) is between 1 and 40, preferably between 5 and 35. Preferably, the surfactants are present in a weight ratio total content of non-volatile oils / surfactant content (s) of between 8 and 25. An emulsifying additional surfactant preferably selected for obtaining an oil-in-oil emulsion is preferably used. -water. In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifying surfactant having at 25 ° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8. It is also possible to use an emulsifying surfactant having a balance at 25 ° C. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, less than 8.

The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon surfactant.

Examples of additional hydrocarbon surfactants suitable for the invention are described below. Additional Nonionic Surfactants Particularly preferably, the additional surfactant is a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may in particular be chosen from poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures. 1) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, stearate may be mentioned. 40E, stearate 50E, stearate 100E, laurate 20E, laurate 40E, distearate 150E. (2) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, cetyl may be mentioned. ether 23 0E, oleyl ether 50 OE, phytosterol 30E, steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 100. 3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, those which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, especially of C8-C24, and preferably of C12-C18; these may be ethoxylated or not, for example, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units ( CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C12-Pareth-7"), such as that sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C 8 -C 24 and preferably C 12 -C 18 fatty alcohol ethoxylates such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol. with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as the BRU 72 marketed by the company UNIQEMA; 4) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. For example, sorbitan laurate may be mentioned. 4 or 20 OE, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as Tween 20 sold by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20E, sorbitan stearate 20E, sorbitan oleate 20 OE or the Cremophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. Mention may also be made of the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (sold under the name Arlacel 2121U-FL from Croda); (5) Polyoxyethylene or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably used having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of 0 to 100. 6) As alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, use is preferably those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 , especially 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cii-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG ilo® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic; and their mixtures. More generally, alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are defined more specifically later; 7) As sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters, in particular the C 12 -C 26 alkyl esters, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose stearate, in particular sold under the name Tegosoft PSE 141 G by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the stearate mixture sorbitan and sucrose cocoate (marketed under the name Arlacel 2121U-FL from Croda), Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, products marketed by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example, palmite sucrose marketed as Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570; 8) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. For example, mention may be made of PEG-150 distearate sold under the reference KESSCO PEG 6000 DS by ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE), hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate; 9) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. By way of example, there may be mentioned Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chemyl alcohol 100; 10) cetyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol; 11) Geminated surfactants of formula (I): wherein R 1 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group - (C2H40) a- (C3H60) bZ where - Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (O) (O1) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'represent H or an alkaline or alkaline earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, from 0 to 15, - b is from 0 to 10, and - the sum of a + b is from 1 to 25; and n is from 1 to 10, for example the geminate surfactant mixed with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by SASOL under the names CERALUTION, and in particular the following products - Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, - Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, - Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Arabic Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI Names); 12) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the additional nonionic surfactant is chosen from polyoxyethylenated and non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, preferably chosen from PEG-150 distearate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate. Preferably, the composition is such that the nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, preferably chosen from PEG-150 distearate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, preferably PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional anionic surfactants According to another embodiment, the additional surfactant may be chosen from anionic surfactants, different from the linear metal salts of C 10 -C 30 linear fatty acids. The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulphates and carboxylates. , amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, and mixtures thereof. 1) As alkyl ether sulfates, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 OE) marketed under the names Sipon AOS225 or Texon N702 by the company Henkel, lauryl ether sulphate ammonium chloride (C12-14 70-30) (30E) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90 E) ammonium sulphate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sodium sulfate and magnesium sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson. 2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned for example the (for example alkaline) salts of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts. The glycol carboxylate type surfactant may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic acids comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic acids can be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol type, mention may be made, for example, of lauryl glycol sodium carboxylate or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate), such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa ° by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form) °.

As amido ether carboxylate (AEC), mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (30E), sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 30 by the company Kao Chemicals.

As the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (60E) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals the polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil fatty acids sold under the name OLIVEM 400® by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated tri-decyl ether carboxylate (60E) marketed under the trademark NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX® by the company Nikkol. 3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAIVIIX L 30® by Seppic, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol, the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol. alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken. glutamates, such as the triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto; and mixtures thereof, such as for example the mixture of PALMITOYL PROLINE (and) SODIUM PALMITOYL SARCOSINATE (and) MAGNESIUM PALMITOYL GLUTAMATE, in particular marketed under the reference SEPIFEEL ONE by the company SEPPIC. The salts and / or derivatives of glutamic acid are described more precisely later. aspartates, such as the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate triethanolamine / N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine marketed under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi. glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names AMILITE GCS-12® and AMILITE GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto. citrates, such as the citric mono-ester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt. Galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. 4) As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by the company Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant; 5) As isethionates, there may be mentioned acylisethionates such as sodium cocoyl-isethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the company Jordan. 6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or marketed under the trademark NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl sodium methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol. 7) As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulphosuccinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the di-sodium oxyethylenated oleamide sulfosuccinate (20E) sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135® by Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauryl amide mono-sulfosuccinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfinate ( 10 0E) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre. 8) As alkyl sulphoacetate, mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of sodium lauryl sulphoacetate and di-sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-Lyl LSB by the company Stepan. 9) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl acid, phosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20 ® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, the salt of potassium or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the name DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetylphosphate marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by the company Uniqema. 10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular wheat and oats. As polypeptides, mention may be made, for example, of the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein, sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl soy protein hydrolysed, sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on the coconut fatty acid, sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic, 11) and mixtures thereof.

Cationic Additional Surfactants According to another embodiment, the additional surfactant may be selected from cationic surfactants. The cationic additional surfactants may be chosen from: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as C12-30-tri (C1-4alkyl) alkyl halides; ) ammonium such as N, N, N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride).

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional amphoteric surfactants such as N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates, such as the product sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one additional silicone surfactant. By way of example, mention may be made of: a) as nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as that sold under the name FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® by the company FINTEX; b) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: the cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning; HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER The composition according to the invention may further comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from associative polymers.

Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic gelling agent (preferably an associative polymer) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, if this This is present.

The term "gelling polymer of the aqueous phase" in the sense of the present application, a polymer capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. The gelling polymer that can be used according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its ability to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C *, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (la = 1 Hz) by a threshold of flow I, at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C * can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer considered. As an illustration, this concentration is between 1 and 2% by weight for a copolymer acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate sodium 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 as marketed under the name "Simulgel 600 "by the company SEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for an ethoxylated cethesyl methacrylate (25 EO) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type.

The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an amount sufficient to adjust the rigidity modulus G * (1 Hz, 25 ° C.) of the composition to a value greater than or equal to 10,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 10,000 Pa to 100,000 Pa. The method of die stiffness module G * (1 Hz, 25 ° C) of the composition is described in more detail below. The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition. More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from: - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names "VERSICOL F" or "VERSICOL K" by the company ALLIED COLLOID, "UTRAHOLD 8" by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and the salts, in particular of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (answering the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a sodium polyacrylate crosslinked (answering the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name "LUVIGEL EM" by the company, - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the denominations "RETEN" by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN No. 7" by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by HENKEL, - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, the acrylate / calcium copolymers are most particularly preferred according to the present invention; C 30 -alkylacrylate (INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2; - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLAMANT, - AMPS copolymers / acrylamide type SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL marketed by the company SEPPIC, - AMPS copolymers / methacrylates of polyoxyethylenated alkyl (cross-linked or otherwise) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type sold by Clariant, and mixtures thereof. Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentioned include: - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers, distinct from alkylcellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, such as: galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellane gum, Carob gum, Fennugrec gum, Karaya gum, gum Tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, xanthan derivatives; alginates and carrageenans; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosen from homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, polyacrylic acids, polyacrylic acid salts or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from associative polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic or nonionic. or amphoteric.

Associative Anionic Polymers Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly with a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly with an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (I): CH 2 = C (R ') In which R 'denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl and aryl radicals, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared according to an emulsion polymerization process in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / C30-C38 alpha-olefin / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride copolymer / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate). ) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

Among the anionic associative polymers, according to a preferred embodiment, the copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an unsaturated carboxylic acid (1,13-monoethylenic and a 1,13-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and a oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of C 1 -C 4 alcohol, for example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (comprising 20 OE units) or Aculyn 15 (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene terpolymer). (250E) As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester type. Unsaturated carboxylic acid, for example, the anionic polymers described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Cationic Associative Polymers As pol Cationic associative ymers include quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with amino side groups. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular, quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or otherwise, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth type (stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated (20)). The alkyl radicals borne by the above-quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of C8-C30 fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses are QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM products. -X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA. Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch.

Nonionic Associative Polymers The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from: celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups , especially C8-C22 arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol, guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers - copolymers of C 1 -C 6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, associative polyurethanes Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers having in the chain, both hydrophilic sequences most often polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethanes polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or sequences cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent. By way of example, nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention include the C16-0E120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, urethane functional molecule and average molecular weight by weight 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit. As associative polyurethane polymer, it is also possible to use the Rheolate 205 urea function sold by Rheox or the Rheolate 208 or 204 or the Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% solids content in water, can also be used. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rohm & Haas or Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, and mixtures thereof. .

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - the hydroxypropylguar of guar that can be modified, in particular the hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyl guar chloride; tri-methyl ammonium; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol; anionic associative polymers derived from (meth) acrylic acid, such as the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas, non-associative polymers ionic polyurethane-type polyethers, such as the STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis). According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - the hydroxylpropylguar of guar that can be modified, in particular hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar chloride hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium, - anionic associative polymers derived from (meth) acrylic acid, such as the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type, such as STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis). Amphoteric Associative Polymers Among the amphoteric associative polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or non-branched polymers, obtainable by the copolymerization of 1) at least one monomer of formula ( IVa) or (IVb): wherein R4 and R5, which are the same, or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH group or a d oxygen, n is an integer from 2 to 5, A- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. Wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Z1 represents an OH group or an NHC (CH3) 2CH2SO3H group; 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI): wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; X denotes an atom; oxygen or nitrogen and R11 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; 4) optionally at least one crosslinking agent or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb), ( V) and (VI) may be quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. The monomers of formula (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate, diethylaminoethylmethacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate and dimethacrylate. ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight average molecular weights of the amphoteric associative polymers have a weight average molecular weight greater than 500, preferably between 10,000 and 10,000,000 and even more preferably between 100,000 and 800,000. Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain 1 to 99 mole%, more preferably 20 to 95 mole% and even more preferably 25 to 75 mole% of compound (s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 to 80 mole%, more preferably from 5 to 80 mole% and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mole% of compound (s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 and 70 mol%, more preferably between 1 and 50 mol% and even more preferably between 1 and 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent when present is preferably between 0.0001 and 1 mol% and more preferably between 0.0001 and 0.1 mol%. Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formulas (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) ranges from 20:80 to 95: 5 and more preferably from 25:75 to 75:25.

The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described in the patent application WO9844012. The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers. The hydrophilic gelling polymer (s), and in particular the associative polymers, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight. It is understood that this quantity is also likely to vary according to whether said polymer is associated or not with an additional surfactant and / or a film-forming agent (distinct from the alkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose), which are also likely to to act on the consistency of said composition.

The Active Ingredients The composition may further preferably comprise at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents, cicatrizing agents and / or anti-aging agents, skin and / or lips, and in particular lipids.

According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a method of care of the skin and / or the lips, and in particular the lips comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin and or the lips. The deposit made with a composition according to the invention having a good level of resistance, makes it possible to ensure the persistence of the active ingredient on the skin and / or the lips and thus to improve the effectiveness of the care (moisturizing, healing effect and / or age) of the skin and / or the lips. Moisturizing Agents: According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant). As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably C2-C8, and more preferably C3-C6, such as preferably glycerine, propylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, and their mixture, glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea) marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, l hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata extract cylindra marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma 'homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® NOF corporation, betaglucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids °; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB °"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zince; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizing agent chosen from glycerin, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure- HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application WO 02/051828 and in particular C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB", a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé, an extract of microalgae Prophyridium cruentum enriched in marketed zinc by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®, spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres, spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon and Arginine Healing Agents The active ingredient can also be chosen from healing agents.

Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeasts extract such as the healing wound LS LS / 7225B from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes ° TRF ° from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as GP4G ° Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Souci Ami® Liposolible, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Herbasol ° lemon of Cosmetochem, extracts of helichryse , extracts of millefeuilles, folic acid, betaglucan and Shea butter and its purified fractions, modified exopolysaccharides and alkylsulfonated polyaminosaccharides. ANTI-AGING AGENTS The active agent may also be chosen from anti-aging agents, that is to say having, in particular, a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier, the anti-glycation agents, the active agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells and their mixtures. The agent having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier may be chosen from an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuitee °, a wild yam rhizome extract (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y ° from Active Organics, plankton extracts like Secma's omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Relipidium ° from Coletica, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline's Gatuline Zen sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name "Phytosphingosine® SLC" by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® from Coletica and their mixtures. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier include Thermus thermophilus extract, wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract and their mixtures. By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen. Examples of anti-glycation agents are the plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by the company COSMETOCHEM, the ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name denomination "ALISTIN"), an extract of Hélainthus annuus such as Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extracts such as the white wine powder extract on a maltodextrin support sold under the name "White wine" dehydrated 2F "by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka® Sederma and their mixtures.

The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisaie such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium salts, of manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone acid. carboxylic acid, such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium, such as Sepitonic M3® from Seppic and mixtures thereof. The active ingredients employed in the compositions according to the invention may be hydrophilic or lipophilic.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic active agent, chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents and anti-aging agents. Indeed, the composition according to the invention comprising water, it is particularly suitable for the introduction of hydrophilic active ingredients into the composition, in particular without problems of stability of the composition and / or the active ingredient. This is particularly interesting, especially in the context of lip care. Indeed, the conventional lipstick compositions known in the prior art, whether solid or liquid, rarely include water and, if they contain, are generally unstable over time (ie that they exhibit phenomena of phase shift or exudation).

Preferably, the active agent is chosen from: polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 8, and more preferably C 3 -C 6, such as, preferably, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol , dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, and their mixture, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine, collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight); spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen), spheres of hyaluronic acid; ceramides such as preferably ceramide V.

Preferably, the active content in the composition ranges from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered. Dyestuffs A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff that may be chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic, water-soluble dyestuffs, optical-effect materials, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.

The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents that are miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na, CI: 15850), DC can be mentioned. Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na Salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570); ), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

By way of non-limiting illustration of sources of water-soluble dye (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanine, anthocyanins, enocyanines, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flovoxanthine, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthine, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and disodium fuschine salt. Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the family of carotenoids, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141. According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff (s) to be transferred to the skin and / or the lips to be made up, are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be compatible with impregnation at the level of the substrate.

The water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0 to 8% by weight. , 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring material (s) are chosen from the di-sodium salt of bright yellow. FCF marketed by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the di-sodium salt of acidic fuchsin D marketed by LCW under the name DC Red 33, the tri-sodium salt of the Allura Red marketed by LCW under the name FD & C Red 40. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes as dyestuffs. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment and / or one nacre as coloring matter. According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the water-soluble dyestuffs described above, one or more additional dyestuffs, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition. The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments, such as reflecting pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures. The organic pigments may be, for example: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes; organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline dyes , triphenylmethane, fluoran. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group; melanic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10 , D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. ° 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683. For the purposes of the present application, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of gold-colored nacres 25 sold especially by Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze 30 (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may also be free of coloring matter. According to this embodiment, the coimposition may be a care composition, preferably skin or lips. According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention may advantageously be a lip balm. Charges A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to make-up. They are distinct from the dyestuffs Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine or fumed silica particles, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof. A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprising comprises at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers and / or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic), distinct from alkycellulose and in particular from ethylcellulose, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips. A composition according to the invention may constitute a lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or an antisolar product. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in liquid form. By way of illustration of the liquid formulations, mention may be made especially of glosses for the lips. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As specified above, the composition according to the invention is homogeneous and provides access to a deposit having good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of gloss, comfort (fine and light deposit) and non-sticky. The present invention will be better understood by means of the following examples. These are presented by way of illustration of the invention and can not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof. Example 1 and 2: Lip balms The following compositions of lip balms were prepared. Composition 1 illustrates a composition according to the invention comprising water, ethylcellulose, a first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (Octyldodecanol), a second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil different from the first oil (silicone oil), stearate. of sodium and PEG-150 distearate as surfactants. In the comparative composition 2 outside the invention, the sodium stearate has been replaced weight for weight by another anionic surfactant of similar nature. COMPOUNDS (Chemical name / reference Example 1 Commercial Example 2) according to comparative out of the invention (% by weight (% by weight) 26.2% ethylcellulose in water, sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol (2.5%) AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer 20 20 Compounds (Chemical name / reference Example 1 Commercial Example 2) according to the comparative specification excluding the invention (% by weight (% by weight) Octyldodecanol 20 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000 from Wacker) 20 20 Sodium stearate, (FACI 35/65 Vegetable Sodium Stearate) 3 _ Stearoyl Sodium Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 PF Ajinomoto) - 3 PEG-150 Distearate (KESSCO PEG 6000 DS of ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE), 1.75 1.75 BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane (Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax from DOW CORNING) 10 10 Water + colorants QSP 100 QSP 100 TOTAL: 100 100 Protocol of preparation: 1) The fat phase (wax) was heated in a skillet in the phenyl silicone oil 75 ° C. Then allowed to cool to 70 ° C. 2) The surfactants were added and mixed with stirring at 55 ° C until the mixture was homogeneous; 3) In a beaker, the ethylcellulose and the octyldodecanol were poured; The Rayneri-type deflocculator was then stirred for 1 hour at 55 ° C., then water and silicone wax were added and Rayneri was mixed at 55 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. 4) In a second skillet, this mixture was then poured into the fat phase and stirred (Rayneri deflocculator) for 20 minutes; 5) The dyes previously dissolved in water were then added; 6) Finally, the alcohol and phenoxy ethanol were added with stirring. 7) It was finally poured into a preheated mold at 42 ° C to obtain sticks of diameter 12.7 mm. It was then allowed to stand for 10 minutes at room temperature and then the mold was put in a freezer at -26 ° C until it reached the temperature of 4 ° C. 8) The sticks were then removed from the mold. After 24h at room temperature, the compositions obtained were evaluated and their hardness measured according to the protocol described above. The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the obtained compositions for 72 hours at 24 ° C and for 72 hours at 45 ° C. We check in particular if we observe a phase shift, the formation of grains, a subsidence of the composition. Evaluation of Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Composition according to the Invention Appearance of the Composition Composition The composition is homogeneous homogeneous and stable at and stable at 24 ° C. and 45 ° C. 24 ° C and 45 ° C. Form of the composition Stick Paste Composition, diameter 12.7 mm unstructured; No stick Hardness of the composition 39 Nm-1 Hardness not measurable (Nm-1) (composition not sufficiently hard) The composition 1 according to the invention made it possible to obtain a stick of lipstick. The composition obtained is homogeneous, and the sticks obtained are strong enough not to break when applied to the lips. In addition, the application of the stick on the lips is easy (sliding on application and easy disintegration). For composition 2 outside the invention, the composition obtained is too soft, pasty unstructured and did not allow to obtain a stick. This composition was too soft to measure its hardness.

The composition 1 was applied to the lips so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness, the ease of application and the appearance of the deposit was evaluated. In addition, the stickiness of the deposit was evaluated during the drying of the formula after 2 minutes at room temperature (25 ° C). For this, a finger was applied, at the end of the specified drying time, on the formula applied and the sticky was appreciated by the subject to the withdrawal of his finger of the applied formula. The application of the composition 1 on the lips is easy (sliding on application and easy disintegration). The deposit obtained is homogeneous, light and fresh. In addition, the deposit obtained is low tack, non-migrating and satisfactory gloss. Example 4 Solid Lipsticks The following composition of Lipstick according to the invention was prepared. It comprises water, ethylcellulose, a first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (Octyldodecanol), a second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil different from the first oil (phenyl silicone oil), and the surfactants according to the invention. Compounds (chemical name / commercial reference) Example 4 according to the invention (% by weight) Ethylcellulose 26.2% in water; sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol (2.5%) AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Octyldodecanol 20 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000 from Wacker) 20 Sodium stearate, (vegetable sodium stearate 35/65 of FACI) 3 PEG-150 distearate (KESSCO PEG 6000 DS from ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE), 1.75 BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane (Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax from Dow Corning) 10 Octane-1,2-diol 0 , 3 Compounds (chemical name / commercial reference) Example 4 according to the invention (% by weight) Water 24.65 YELLOW 5 0.045 RED 33 0.135 RED 40 0.120 TOTAL: 100 Preparation protocol: the composition was prepared according to the same protocol than that described previously.

After 24h at room temperature, the composition obtained was evaluated and its hardness measured according to the protocol described above. Evaluation of Example 4 Composition According to the Invention Appearance of the Composition The composition is homogeneous and stable at 24 ° C. and at 45 ° C. Form of the composition Stick of diameter 12.7 mm Hardness of the composition (Nm-1) 39 Nm-1 The composition 4 according to the invention made it possible to obtain a stick of lipstick. The composition obtained is homogeneous, and the sticks obtained are strong enough not to break when applied to the lips. Composition 4 was evaluated as previously described. The application of the composition on the lips is easy (sliding on application and easy disintegration). The deposit obtained is homogeneous, light and fresh. In addition, the deposit obtained is low tack, non-migrating and satisfactory gloss. The stickiness of the deposit has been evaluated as described previously.

Claims (21)

REVENDICATIONS1. A solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least water; preferably at least 5% water; at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose; at least one first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil chosen from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils; at least one anionic surfactant chosen from linear C16-C25 fatty acid metal salts, preferably metal salts of stearic acid and / or of behenic acid, preferably chosen from sodium stearate, sodium stearate and potassium, sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearates; at least one additional surfactant, said additional surfactant being preferably a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, preferably chosen from PEG-150 distearate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactants are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant chosen from linear C16-C25 metal fatty acid salts, preferably metal salts of stearic acid and / or ofbeneic acid, preferably chosen from sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearates, is present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said additional surfactant is preferably a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated and non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, preferably chosen from PEG-150 distearate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is present in a content of between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 2 and 60% by weight and even more preferably between 2 and 60% by weight. 30% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said second non-volatile oil is chosen from silicone oils, preferably phenylated. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content ranging from 5 to 75% by weight of second (s) oil (s) nonvolatile silicone (s) and / or fluorinated (s), in particular from 10 to 40% by weight, and more particularly from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to its total weight. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said "first oil" hydrocarbon non-volatile is selected from: - C10-C26 monoalcohols such as lauryl alcohol, myristicisostearyl, palmitic, oleic, behenic, erucic, arachidyl, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; the monoesters, optionally hydroxyl, of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, the optionally hydroxylated diesters; a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate; the triesters, optionally hydroxyls of a C2-C8 carboxylic triacid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate; acetyltributyl citrate; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such as than the triacetin. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is octyldodecanol. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in a content ranging from 5% to 75%, in particular from 8% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 10% by weight. to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio of first (s) non-volatile oil (s) ( s) hydrocarbon (s) / alkylcellulose between 0.5 and 20, preferably between 1 and 15, particularly preferably between 2 and 10. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 5% by weight of water, preferably between 15 and 70% by weight of water, preferably between 15% and 60%. in weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - between 2 and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably of ethylcellulose, - between 15 and 70% by weight of water, between 25 and 75% by weight of non-volatile oils. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of wax with a melting temperature greater than 66 ° C. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional compound chosen from hydrophilic gelling agents, fillers, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers and / or lipophilic gelling agents, dyestuffs and mixtures thereof 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a composition for makeup and / or care of the lips or skin, in particular of the lips, and more particularly a lipstick or a lip balm. 20. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the skin and / or the lips at least one composition as defined according to US Pat. any of claims 1 to 19. 21. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the lips at least one solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one of water; At least one of the alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose; at least one first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil chosen from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxyls, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil; at least one anionic surfactant chosen from linear C16-C25 fatty acid metal salts, preferably metal salts of stearic acid and / or ofbeneic acid, preferably chosen from sodium stearate and potassium stearate; sodium behenate and polyhydroxy stearates; at least one additional surfactant, said additional surfactant being preferably a nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, preferably selected from PEG-150 distearate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.