FR3054792A1 - AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE AND AROMATIC HYDROCARBON OIL AND TREATMENT METHOD EMPLOYING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion comprising: (A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition; (B) at least one of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which has 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms; (C) at least one first non-volatile oil (C) selected from silicone oils; (D) at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (D) selected from esters of a diol, especially C2-C10, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and benzoic acid; (E) at least one surfactant, preferably hydrocarbon. It also relates to a makeup process and / or care of applying said composition on keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the lips.

Description

© Publication no .: 3,054,792 (to be used only for reproduction orders)

©) National registration number: 16 57560 ® FRENCH REPUBLIC

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY

COURBEVOIE

©) Int Cl ⁸ : A 61 K8 / 73 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 89, 8/92, A 61 Q 1/06

A1 PATENT APPLICATION

©) Date of filing: 04.08.16. (30) Priority: ©) Applicant (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme— FR. @) Date of public availability of the request: 09.02.18 Bulletin 18/06. ©) Inventor (s): POPE Marina and PEREZ NOWAK Virginie. (56) List of documents cited in the preliminary search report: See the end of this brochure (© References to other related national documents: ©) Holder (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme. ©) Extension request (s): ©) Agent (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme.

FR 3 054 792 - A1

AV AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE AND AN AROMATIC HYDROCARBON OIL AND METHOD OF TREATMENT USING THE SAME.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion comprising:

(A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition;

(B) at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms;

(C) at least a first non-volatile oil (C) chosen from silicone oils;

(D) at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (D) chosen from the esters of a diol, in particular C ₂ -C- | q, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and of benzoic acid;

(E) at least one surfactant, preferably a hydrocarbon.

It also relates to a make-up and / or care process consisting in applying said composition to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lifts, and preferably the lips.

i

AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE

AND AN AROMATIC HYDROCARBON OIL AND TREATMENT METHOD USING THE SAME

The present invention aims to provide aqueous cosmetic compositions comprising alkylcellulose, and an aromatic hydrocarbon oil, as well as a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips using it.

The compositions targeted according to the invention more specifically comprise aqueous emulsions, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil, and preferably oil-in-water.

Lip care and / or makeup compositions comprising aqueous emulsions are much less widespread on the market than anhydrous formulations. However, there have recently been such liquid compositions comprising, in addition to water, alkylcellulose, more particularly ethylcellulose, and a mixture of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) and d '' non-volatile phenylated silicone oil (s).

These compositions comprising water have the advantage of using ethylcellulose without requiring the use of large quantities of C2Cg mono-alcohols, such as ethanol, as is often the case with anhydrous compositions, and without degradation of the properties of the deposit obtained. These mono-alcohols indeed make it possible to dissolve sufficient quantities of ethylcellulose which contributes to the adhesion of the film resulting from the application of the composition which contains it. However, the evaporation of these mono-alcohols, once the composition has been applied, has the drawback of being potentially irritating to the skin and / or the lips, and consequently can prove to be harmful during repeated use. Furthermore, when one is freed from the presence of these compounds, in particular ethanol, in anhydrous compositions, and when it is replaced by a non-volatile oil, one can observe a deterioration in comfort with more precisely the appearance of a sticky feeling from the resulting deposit.

This is why the above-mentioned aqueous compositions constitute a definite advantage in the field. Note that when applied, they provide a fresh effect, are not very sticky or not, comfortable and remain once deposited. They also make it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit, sufficiently shiny, exhibiting good behavior, with satisfactory non-transfer properties.

In spite of everything, these compositions can still be improved as regards more particularly the migration, in other words the tendency of the composition to migrate towards fine lines around the lips.

We are therefore always looking for aqueous liquid compositions, intended for making up and / or caring for the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, which are comfortable, non-sticky and which do not migrate after application.

The object of the present invention is precisely to meet these needs.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an emulsion containing:

(A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition;

(B) at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms;

(C) at least a first non-volatile oil (C) chosen from silicone oils;

(D) at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (D) chosen from the esters of a diol, in particular of C2-C10, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and of benzoic acid;

(E) at least one surfactant, preferably a hydrocarbon.

The present invention further relates to a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying the above-mentioned composition.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is homogeneous, stable over time, easy to apply to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, which makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous, fine deposit. , light and fresh, not or not very sticky.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to produce makeup with precise lip contours and which remains so over time, the composition not migrating into wrinkles and fine lines around the lips.

In addition, the deposit obtained has good properties in terms of color fastness and / or non-transfer, as well as a satisfactory gloss.

However, other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

Note that in the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a domain are included in this domain.

The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used interchangeably.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood including limits, unless otherwise specified.

The temperatures mentioned in the description are indicated at atmospheric pressure (1.013. 10 ⁵ Pa).

The composition according to the invention is more particularly in liquid form.

By "liquid" (or "fluid") is meant in particular a composition which is not solid at room temperature (25 ° C), and whose viscosity can be measured.

Such compositions can therefore be found in particular in liquid, creamy or even pasty form.

Protocol for viscosity measurement:

The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25 ° C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4 mobile, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at which a viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile stabilize), at a speed of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may have a viscosity of between 25 and 25 Pa.s at 25 ° C., preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s.

Preferably, the viscosity at 25 ° C of a composition according to the invention can be between 0.2 and 10 Pa.s.

In particular, the viscosity at 25 ° C. of a composition according to the invention can be between 0.1 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 25 Pa.s (mobile 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) at 20 Pa.s (mobile 4), and better between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) at 10 Pa.s (mobile 4).

Stability measurement protocol:

In order to verify the retention of the solid particles in the compositions, centrifugations were carried out at room temperature. The composition samples were introduced into graduated plastic centrifuge tubes with conical tip (ref. Corning® 15mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product # 430055); about 16g of composition) and then into the centrifuge (10 minutes at 450 g (expressed in acceleration units)). The measurement is more particularly carried out 24 hours after the manufacture of the composition.

Centrifuging the compositions according to the invention for 10 minutes at 450 g (expressed in acceleration unit) does not show any instability (no phase shift).

Advantageously, after a centrifugation step for 1 hour at 900 g (expressed in acceleration unit), no phase shift of the compositions thus treated is observed, or if a phase shift appears, the latter reveals a pellet in the tube which is less than 0.5 cm,

The thermal stability of the compositions of the invention is also checked: oil release is not observed after 2 months at room temperature and at 47 ° C.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention are liquid compositions dedicated to making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and better still the lips.

These compositions are advantageously in the form of compositions containing at least one emulsion, preferably oil-in-water, or even are compositions advantageously in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lipstick, in particular liquid, or a lip gloss

ALKYLCELLULOSE

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 3 carbon atoms.

According to a particular embodiment, the alkylcellulose previously defined and preferably ethylcellulose, represents a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; the weight of ethylcellulose being expressed as dry matter.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 4 to 20% by weight, expressed in dry matter of alkylcellulose, more particularly from 4.5 to 15% by weight, expressed in dry matter of alkylcellulose, relative to the weight total of said composition.

Alkylcellulose is an alkyl cellulose ether comprising a chain made up of β-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:

RONa + R’Cl ROR ’+ NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R’ represents a C2-C6 alkyl radical.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose can be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose can be ethylcellulose.

It is an ethyl cellulose ether.

The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44 at 50%.

The alkylcellulose can be used in the form of a powder, such as for example the products of the ETHOCEL Standard range from Dow Chemicals.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) can be used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase, in particular like a latex type dispersion or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

Particularly suitable as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, the product sold by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name "AQUACOAT ECD-30", which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose in an amount of approximately 26.2% by weight in water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol.

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product "AQUACOAT ECD", can be used at a rate of 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 15 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 45% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE ENVIRONMENT

In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerance, toxicology and acceptable feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition must be applied, as well as to the aspect under which the composition must be conditioned.

FIRST NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OILS (C)

The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least a first non-volatile silicone oil (C).

By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water.

By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under normal conditions of temperature and pressure . The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to reveal a vortex within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm / min); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

In addition, the term “oil” designates a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa)

By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure is not zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 ' ³ mm Hg (0.13 Pa) (closed cup)

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 5 to 50% by weight of first oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 5 to 45% by weight , and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated.

By “silicone oil” is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

Non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils

The expression “non-phenylated silicone oil” designates a silicone oil having no phenyl substituent.

Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name dimethicone); vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified in particular with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups.

In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:

- polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS),

- PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference AB IL WAX 9801 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

These oils may further comprise functional groups such as hydroxyl groups.

In addition, non-volatile silicone oils do not include an oxyalkylenated group such as oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated.

The non-phenylated silicone oil can be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):

T

If - X

R2 (I) in which:

Ri, R ₂ , R5 and R5 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl radical, n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 ' ⁶ m ² / s) and 100,000 cSt.

As non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:

the substituents R 1 to R 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product marketed under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker,

the substituents R 1 to R 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is either 100 cSt or 350 cSt, for example the products marketed respectively under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS , by Dow Corning,

- the substituents R 1 to R 5 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils

The expression “phenylated silicone oil” designates a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

These non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be chosen from those which also have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not.

The terms “dimethicone fragment” designate a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O) -.

The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil can thus be chosen from:

a) phenylated silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I):

R

IRR ^r - ^s i—? ii

I I R — Si-o-Si-R

R R I

I R

A — Si-O

I

R (I) in which the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, provided that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenylated silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

b) phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (2):

R R R

I I I

R-Si-O-Si-O-Si-R

I I I

R R R (II) in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.

Mixtures of different silicone phenyl compounds previously described can be used.

Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Mention may more particularly be made, among the compounds of formula (II), of phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remaining representing methyl.

Such non-volatile phenylated silicone oils are preferably trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,5,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name trimethyl-pentaphenyltrisiloxane ), or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid or PH-1554 HRI Cosmetic Fluid, by Dow Corning can also be used.

They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III), (IIP)

Ph

Ph

Ph

Me

Ph

Me

Me — Si — O-Si-O — Si-Me \ \ \

Ph-Si-O-Si-O — Si-Ph \ \ \

Ph Me Ph (III) Me Fh Me (III) in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl.

c) phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (IV):

Me

X — SiMe

Yes-

Me

-Yes-

-X

Me

Me

Me (IV) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) (Ph).

d) phenylated silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures of these:

in which :

- Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More particularly, Ri to Rio, independently of each other, represent a C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in C1-C20, in particular Ciο in Ci-Cig, or an aryl radical in Cô-Cm and in particular in C10-C13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is in C1-C3.

Preferably, Ri to Rio can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio can in particular be identical, and in addition can be a methyl radical.

According to a first more specific embodiment of formula (V), mention may be made of:

i) phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

f ’

H, C-Si — O ³ 1 ^R 3

I ³

If-0

I

TI ³

Si-o - Si-CH,

Λ I

GOLD

I o

If (CH ₃ ) ₃ (VI) in which:

- Ri to R5, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, an aryl radical, preferably C6-Ch, or an aralkyl radical of which the alkyl part is C1-C3).

- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, Ri to R5, independently of one another, represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, in C1-C20, in particular in C1-C18, or an aryl radical in Cô-Cm monocyclic (preferably in C6) or polycyclic and in particular C10C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C1, the alkyl part is C1-C3).

Preferably, Ri to Ré may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R 1 to R 5 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI).

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is chosen from phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:

A) m = 0 and n and p are independently of each other, integers between 1 and

100.

Preferably R1 to R5 are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF-54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 by Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50100CS by Shin Etsu (100 cSt).

B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n = 0.

These phenylated silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding more particularly to formula (VII) below:

Me

Me

Me

Me

Me

GOLD'

Me — If —— O — If

Ph

Me (VU) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to a first embodiment of a non-volatile phenylated silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.

According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenylated silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil

It can be used, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane or phenyl trimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).

ii) non-volatile phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof:

HX-Si-0 ³ i

R

If-0

Si-0 — Si-CH, 'I

(VIII) in which:

R, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C6-Cm, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C1-C3).

- m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in C1-C20, in particular in CiCig and more particularly in C4-C10, an aryl radical in Cô-Cm monocyclic or polycyclic and in particular in C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical preferably the aryl part is in G, and the alkyl part is in C1-C3 ).

Preferably, the Rs can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The radicals R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VIII).

According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm ² / s (that is to say, from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm ² / s (that is to say 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used.

According to this embodiment, the non-volatile silicone phenylated oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0) such as DC556 from Dow

Corning (22.5 cSt), or even diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, Silbione 70663V30 oil from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25 ° C.

(e) phenylated silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone fragment

n P (IX) in which:

Ri, R ₂ , R5 and R5 are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R3 and R4 are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C6-Ch), provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical ,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a lower weight average molecular weight at 200,000 g / mole, preferably less than 150,000 g / mole and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mole.

f) and a mixture thereof.

In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the first non-volatile oil (s) (C) is chosen from non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, in particular dimethicones, and from phenylated non-volatile silicones, preferably chosen among the phenyl trimethicones, the phenyl dimethicones, the diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones, the diphenyl dimethicones, the trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and their mixtures, and preferably the trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones. More particularly, the first non-volatile oil (s) (C) are chosen from phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, in particular those listed above.

SECOND NON-VOLATILE AROMATIC HYDROCARBON OIL (D)

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (D) chosen from esters of diols, in particular of C2-C10, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and of benzoic acid

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from the diesters of a diol of C2-C10, more particularly of C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated, and of acid benzoic.

More particularly, the oils chosen from ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and their mixtures are suitable for carrying out the invention.

Preferably, the content of second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (D) varies between 5 and 40% by weight, more particularly between 5 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar separate from the second oil (s) (D), or non-polar.

“Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine.

Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.

It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

Additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

Preferably, such oils comprise at least one oxygen atom.

They thus contain at least one alcohol, ether, ester function, or even their combinations.

- Cio-Cg ^ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and contain from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or even natural, such as, for example, alcohols from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (suet ...).

Other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether-alcohols or also so-called Guerbet alcohols.

Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohol of natural origin, such as, for example, coconut (C12 to Ci6) or tallow (Ci6 to Cig).

Preferably, a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms is used, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

By way of particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used as preferred, mention may especially be made of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and their mixtures.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

- monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or polycarboxylic acid in Cî-Cs and an alcohol in Cî-Cs.

In particular :

* the monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, * the diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethyl hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, * triesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic triacid and a C2 alcohol -C8, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate.

- the esters of a Cî-Cs polyol and of one or more carboxylic acids

Q-Q, non-aromatic, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or glycerol and monoacid triesters such as triacetin.

Preferably, the first non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, more particularly monoalcohols, and preferably octyldodecanol.

- additional non-volatile polar ester oils comprising at least 17 carbon atoms

In particular, the non-volatile polar oils additional esters comprise between 17 and 70 carbon atoms and are mono-, di- or tri-esters. They can also be hydroxylated or not.

Thus, the non-volatile ester oil suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from:

* Monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is> 18, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl erucate dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, laurate of hexyl, the pal 2-ethyl-hexyl mitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

Preferably, these are esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms , Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is> 18.

Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.

As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;

* Fatty acid monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and in particular having from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and diols. Notably, these can be esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate.

* Diesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 17 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 17 and 50 carbon atoms in total, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated. It is thus possible to use more particularly the diesters of dicarboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, and of saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate. Diesters of glycol, in particular C2-C5, of glycerol or of diglycerol and of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, can also be used. diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or 2-polyglyceryl diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo), 3-polyglyceryl diisostearate.

* Hydroxy monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably having a carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, glycerin stearate.

* Triesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triacids of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters and mono carboxylic acids such as polyglycerol2 triisostearate.

* Tetraesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a mono carboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl teteasononanoate, glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or tetra decyl-2 pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate * Fatty acid polyesters / dimer condensation or dimer condensation or dimer unsaturated and diol like those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made, as such, of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or alternatively the copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA. Mention may also be made of the polyesters obtained from hexanedioic, isostearic, capric, caprylic and pentaerythritol acids (for example Supermol L from Croda; INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate).

* The esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as the esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and the esters of dimer diols and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular which can be obtained from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular in Cx to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C1 to C20, and more particularly in Ci8, such as the esters of dilinoleic acids and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

* The polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid (s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated such as castor oil succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zénitech.

* Vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example such as that sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, acid triglycerides Ci8-36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.

* The sucrose esters, preferably chosen from the hydrocarbon esters of sucrose and of C2-C6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of esters of acetic acid and isobutyric acid with sucrose, preferably sucrose di-acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate), in particular the compound whose name INCI is Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate (in particular marketed under the reference Sustane Saib Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemicals) and the compounds of name INCI Sucrose Polyosoyate marketed under the reference Crodaderm S by the company Croda, Sucrose Polybéhénate marketed under the reference Crodaderm B by the company Croda, Sucrose Polycottonseedate marketed under the reference Crodaderm C by the company Croda; and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, ester oils comprising at least 17 carbon atoms and in particular monoesters, aromatic or not , comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, tetraesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, polyesters in particular those obtained from hexanedioic, isostearic, capric, caprylic and pentaerythritol acids, alone or in mixtures.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil (s) represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular of 0.5% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, in the case where the composition contains it, the content of additional non-volatile oil (s) polar (s) represents at most 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of the second oil (s) non-volatile hydrocarbons (D) and additional polar non-volatile oils. Preferably, this content represents a maximum of 40% by weight, even more advantageously 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture of the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils (D) and of the additional polar non-volatile oils.

Additional non-volatile non-volatile oils

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one additional non-volatile non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

By "apolar oil" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as for example:

- paraffin oil and its fractions,

- squalane,

- Tisoeicosane,

- naphthalene oil,

polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, INDOPOL H-100, INDOPOL H-300, INDOPOL H-1500 sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO,

- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as for example Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company WITCO, or even the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation,

- decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular TIndopol L-14,

- hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes, hydrogenated C6-Cm polyolefins, such as for example: PURESYN 2, PURESYN 10, PURESYN 150 marketed or manufactured by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS, or even PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL ,

- and their mixtures.

Advantageously, if the composition contains it, the content of additional non-volatile oil (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon (s) varies from 0.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one additional non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil, then the content of this or these oils is lower than that of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or second (D). Preferably, the content of this non-volatile non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil (s) is lower than that of the first non-volatile silicone oil (s) (C). Even more advantageously, if the composition comprises them, the proportion of additional non-volatile hydrocarbon (s) oils (non-polar) represents less than half by weight of the first non-volatile silicone oils (C).

ADDITIONAL VOLATILE OILS

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one additional volatile oil.

Preferably, said volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and / or volatile fluorinated oils.

The additional volatile oil can in particular be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar.

According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and can in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C.

As additional volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 ′ ⁶ m ² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, preferably non-polar.

The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 55 ° C, and preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 50 ° C.

The additional volatile hydrocarbon-based oil can in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular:

the branched alkanes in Cg-Ci6 such as the iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in Cg-Ciô, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Allowyls,

the linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (02) and n-tetradecane (04) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 1497, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture ( Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (03) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and their mixtures.

In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises it, the volatile oil or oils are chosen from volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and preferably branched alkanes of Cg-Ci6.

According to a particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil (s) can be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular of 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, if the composition comprises at least one additional volatile oil, then the total content of this or these oils is less than that in second (s) hydrocarbon (s) oil (s) (D). In addition, if the composition includes it, the total content of additional volatile oil (s) is lower than that of the first non-volatile silicone oil (s). (VS).

Preferably, the composition is free of additional volatile oil (s).

HYDROPHILIC GELLANTS

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified.

The term “hydrophilic gelling agent” or “gelling polymer of the aqueous phase”, within the meaning of the present application, a polymer capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling polymer usable according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C *, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (μ = 1 Hz) by a threshold of flow T _{c at} least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C * can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer considered.

In particular, said polymer is chosen from:

- galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Carob gum, Fennugrec gum, cassia gum, guar gums and their derivatives.

With regard to guar gum derivatives, more particularly is meant non-ionic guar gums modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there may be mentioned, by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting oxides of corresponding alkenes, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation rate, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums possibly modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP 120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company RHONE POULENC (MEYHALL) or name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

It is also possible to use ionic alkylguar derivatives, and in particular hydroxypropylguar, modified by sodium methylcarboxylate groups (for example the product sold under the reference Jaguar XC97-1 by Rhodia), guar chloride hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium. , and mixtures thereof.

- biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as Scleroglucan or Xanthan gums.

Xanthan gums are sold in particular under the names Keltrol, Keltrol T, Keltrol TF, Keltrol BT, Keltrol RD, Keltrol CG by the company Nutrasweet Kelco, or under the names Rhodicare S, Rhodicare H by the company Rhodia Chimie.

- gums derived from plant exudates such as Arabian, Ghatti, Karaya, Tragacanth, Carrageenan, Agar and Carob gums;

- pectins, alginates, starches;

- their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from guar gums and their derivatives, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups, guar chloride hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof; preferably hydroxypropyl guar.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of hydrophilic gelling agent represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SURFACTANTS

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more surfactants, present for example in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable to use a surfactant suitably chosen for obtaining a stable emulsion, more particularly an oil-in-water emulsion.

These surfactants can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures, preferably nonionic, anionic surfactants.

Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRKOTHMER”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3 ^rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants

The nonionic surfactants can be chosen in particular from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly (ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl - sorbitan esters, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl- ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl- glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl - sucrose esters, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not and their mixtures.

1) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly (ethylene oxide), those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200 are preferably used. Mention may be made, for example, of stearate 40 EO, 50 EO stearate, 100 EO stearate, 20 EO laurate, 40 EO laurate, 150 EO distearate.

2) As the alkyl- and polyalkylethers of poly (ethylene oxide), use is preferably made of those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO.

3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, fatty alcohols are preferably used, comprising in particular at least 8 carbon atoms, and which can contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylenated units, in particular having 20 100 oxyethylene units; in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylates such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-10"), ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 units oxyethylene (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) like the BRIJ 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 100 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-100”), cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (name CTFA "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7") such as that marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS; behenyl alcohol ethoxylated with 100 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "beheneth-100") or in particular oxyalkylenated alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C8 fatty alcohols -C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylates such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRIJ 72 sold by the company UNIQEMA; ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth20") such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA,

4) As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Mention may for example be made of sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product Tween 20 sold by the company Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 OE or even Crémophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. As non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate is preferably used, preferably that sold under the reference Arlacel 2121U from Croda.

5) As the alkyl- and polyalkylethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.

6) As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides can be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (AlkylCg / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

More generally, the alkylpolyglycoside type surfactants are defined more specifically below.

7) As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, mention may, for example, be made of Crodesta F150, the sucrose monolaurate sold under the name

Crodesta SL 40, the products marketed by Ryoto Sugar Ester such as, for example, sucrose palmite marketed under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570.

8) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Mention may be made, for example, of hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate.

9) As alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100.

Anionic surfactants

The anionic surfactants can be chosen from alkyl (ether) sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of fatty acids C10-C30, especially C12-C20, in particular metal stearates and their mixtures.

1) As alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates of alkali metals, for example having at least 12 carbon atoms, more particularly from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising from 1 to 20 oxyethylenated units, more particularly from 1 to 10 units oxyethylenated. Mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (02-14 70-30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names SIPON AOS225 or TEXAPON N702 by the company Henkel, lauryl ether sulphate. ammonium (02-14 70-30) (3 EO) marketed under the name SIPON LEA 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) ammonium sulfate marketed under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sulphate of sodium and magnesium marketed under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.

2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned for example the (for example alkaline) salts of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ethercarboxylates (AEC) and the salts of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acids.

The surfactant of the glycol carboxylate type can be chosen from carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate) alkyl glycol, their salts and their mixtures. These carboxylic alkyl glycols comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic alkyl chain, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxyls can be neutralized by mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

As carboxylic glycol surfactants, there may be mentioned for example sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate) such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form) ®.

As amido ethercarboxylate (AEC), mention may, for example, be made of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), sold under the name ΑΚΥΡΟ FOAM 30® by the company Kao Chemicals.

As the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, mention may, for example, be made of sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (6 EO) sold under the name ΑΚΥΡΟ SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals , polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil origin fatty acids marketed under the name OLIVEM 400® by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, tri-decyl ether oxyethylenated sodium carboxylate (6 EO) marketed under the name NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX® by the company Nikkol.

3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as:

- sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30® by the company Seppic, myristoyl sodium sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol.

alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N methyl amidopropionate marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE® by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken.

- Glutamates, such as triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto.

- Aspartates, such as the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate of triethanolamine / Nmyristoyl aspartate of triethanolamine sold under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi.

- glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names AMILITE GCS-12® and AMILITE GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto.

- citrates such as the citric mono-ester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), marketed under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt, the monoester of glyceryl stearate citric acid.

- galacturonates such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate sold by the company Soliance.

4) As sulfonates, there may be mentioned for example the alpha-olefin sulfonates such as sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate (Ch-iô) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by the company Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by the company Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant ;

5) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the company Jordan.

6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or marketed under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate sodium sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol.

7) As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of lauryl alcohol mono-sulfosuccinate (C12 / C14 70/30) oxyethylenated (3 EO) sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oleamidosulfosuccinate, oxyethylenated di-sodium (2 EO) marketed under the name STANDAPOL SH 135® by the company Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate (5 EO) marketed under the name LEBON A5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate mono-sulfosuccinate (10 EO) ) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, the mono-sulfosuccinate of ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide marketed under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. It is also possible to use the polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by the company Mac Intyre.

8) As alkyl sulfoacetate, mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, sold under the name STEPAN-MILD LSB by the company Stepan.

9) As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may, for example, be made of monoalkylphosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl acid. phosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and di-ester of octylphosphoric acid, marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-20 ® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of phophoric acid of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol (7 moles of EO), marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, the salt of mono-alkyl (C12-C13) potassium or triethanolamine marketed under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate commerciali dried under the name DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetylphosphate marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by the company Uniqema.

10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular of wheat and oats. As polypeptides, there may be mentioned for example the potassium salt of the lauroyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein, marketed under the name MAY-TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of the oat lauroyl amino acids, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on copra fatty acid, sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gélatine, the soy proteins acylated by hydrogenated coconut acids, marketed under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic.

11) As metal salts of C10-C30 fatty acids, especially C12-C20, there may be mentioned in particular metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates.

Gemini surfactant

The composition can also comprise at least one twin surfactant of formula (I):

(I)

Ο η

η

Y

X in which:

- Ri and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

- R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

- X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group - (C2H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z where • Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH ₂ -COOM , -SO3M, -P (O) (OM) ₂ , -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, where M, represents H or an alkaline or alkaline earth ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium, • a ranges from 0 to 15, b ranges from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and • n ranges from 1 to 10.

The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the Ri-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a residue of coconut fatty acids (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).

In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group -SO3M where M is preferably an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion.

The spacer R ₂ advantageously consists of a linear C ₁ -C ₃ alkylene chain, and preferably of an ethylene chain (CH ₂ CH ₂ ).

Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the name INCI: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure:

O, ¹¹ / 'cocoyl — C — N (PEG-15) - SO ₃ Na

ÇH ₂ cocoyl — C — N II (PEG-15) - SO ₃ Na

O being understood that PEG represents the group CfUCfUO, and cocoyl represents the rest of coconut fatty acids.

This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide3.

Preferably, the gemini surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with other surfactants, and especially in admixture with (a) a C6-C22 (preferably C14-C20) fatty acid ester such as a stearate. ) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular a C6- fatty acid diester C22 and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of

Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monocitrate stearate, behenyl alcohol.

More preferably, the gemini surfactant according to the invention represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl ester represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the diester of C6-C22 fatty acid and of citric acid and of glycerol represents from 10 to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the fatty alcohol C10-C30 represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants containing the gemini surfactant.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of 10 to 20% by weight of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, from 30 to 40% by weight of glyceryl stearate, from 10 to 20% by weight of monocitrate stearate glyceryl, from 30 to 40% by weight of behenyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants containing the gemini surfactant.

Alternatively, the gemini surfactant according to the invention can be used in admixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauric acid ester, sodium lauroyl lactate. In this case, the twin surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

It is possible, for example, to use the twin surfactant in admixture with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by the company SASOL under the names CERALUTION®, and in particular the following products:

• Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, • Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate.

• Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25,

Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben.

This twin surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises, as gemini surfactant, the compound whose name INCI is Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, sold under the name Ceralution® H by the company Sasol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant as stabilizing agent, preferably chosen from sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, in particular non-polyoxyethylenated, and better still a mixture of stearate of sorbitan and sucrose cocoate, preferably that sold under the reference Arlatone 2121U from Croda.

According to a second embodiment, the composition can comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, we can cite:

a) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C. (Griffin method; J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256), used alone or as a mixture; we can cite in particular:

- dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company DOW CORNING;

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate such as that sold under the name FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® by the company FINTEX;

b) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C. (Griffin method), used alone or as a mixture; we can cite in particular:

- the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company DOW CORNING;

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant (s), in particular less than 4% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even may be completely free of silicone surfactant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant as stabilizing agent, preferably chosen from sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, in particular non-polyoxyethylenated, and better still a mixture of stearate of sorbitan and sucrose cocoate, preferably that sold under the reference Arlacel 2121 from Croda; or also chosen from fatty alcohols, in particular having at least 8 carbon atoms, oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated and which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated, or their mixtures.

ADDITIONAL COMPOUNDS

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and their mixtures.

Charges

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention can comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they make it possible to impart body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup. They are distinct from coloring matters

Among the fillers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine, fumed silica particles, optionally treated hydrophilically or hydrophobically, and their mixtures.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

Raincoats)

Advantageously, a solid fatty substance is represented by at least one wax. Thus, the composition according to the invention can also further comprise at least one wax.

By “wax” is meant within the meaning of the invention, a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C.

The waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, for example, of solid fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. By way of particular examples of fatty alcohols which may be used as a preference, mention may in particular be made of myristic, palmitic, behenic, erucic, arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures.

It is possible in particular to use hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32 ·

Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- tetrastearate trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE .

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, there may be mentioned in particular those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHINETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

The silicone waxes which can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (Cjo-Ceo) alkyldimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax with a melting temperature below 65 ° C, preferably below 63 ° C.

Such a wax can in particular be chosen from paraffin wax, stearic alcohol, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, synthetic beeswax (in particular that sold under the reference CYCLOCHEM 326 A by Evonik Goldschmidt), palm butter , Sumac wax, silicone beeswax, stearate stearyl, alkyl dimethicone wax, certain polymethylene waxes (such as Cirebelle 303 sold by Cirebelle), Berry wax, olive oil wax , lemon wax, ceresin wax (sold under the reference WHITE CERESIN WAX JH 520 by the company HANSOTECH), and their mixtures.

According to an even more preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one hydrogenated olive oil ester wax, preferably the one whose INCI name is HYDROGENATED STEARYL OLIVE ESTERS, such as that sold under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18 L 57 from SOPHIM and the one whose INCI name is HYDROGENATED MYRISTYL OLIVE ESTERS, such as the one sold under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 14L48 from SOPHIM.

If the composition comprises it, the wax content advantageously represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of wax.

Pasty fat

Advantageously, the solid fatty substance is represented by a pasty fatty substance. This embodiment is particularly advantageous in the case where it is sought to obtain a glossy or satin-like deposit, as for example in the product for making up the lips, such as for example a lipstick.

Thus, the composition considered according to the invention can also comprise at least one pasty fatty substance.

By “pasty fatty substance”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound can be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments .

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of pasty or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MD SC 2920 by the company RT instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to bring the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to go from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty fatty substance can be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethysiloxanes of high molecular weights, polydimethysiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicones,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular:

- homopolymers of olefins,

- olefin copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers (for example marketed under the name Antaron V220F from Ashland),

- homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

- linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group,

- homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more diols in C2-C100, preferably in C2-C50,

- esters and polyesters, and

- their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon.

A preferred pasty silicone and fluorinated fatty substance is polymethyl-trifluoropropylmethylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU. Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may in particular be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides · Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of block copolymers comprising blocks of C6-C30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene units or OE) sold under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred:

- the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid , capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as for example those sold under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; or else having reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid, such as for example those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Cremer Oleo:

- phytosterol esters;

- pentaerythritol esters;

- esters formed from:

- at least one alcohol in C16-40, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and

- a diacid dimer formed from at least one C18-40 unsaturated fatty acid, such as the dimer ester of tall oil fatty acids comprising 36 carbon atoms and of a mixture i) of alcohols Guerbet comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms);

- the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid, linear or branched, in C4-C50, and a diol or a polyol in C2-C50;

polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and an ester of an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and

- the aliphatic esters of ester resulting from the esterification between an ester of aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing OU.

A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. It is a reaction transforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its β-alkylated dimeric alcohol with loss of one equivalent of water.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally contain from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid , tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyl decanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched.

The esters of hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid advantageously come from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The esters of hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid are especially chosen from:

a) esters, partial or total, of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

c) esters, partial or total, of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

d) esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

e) esters, partial or total, of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols which have reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid,

f) and mixtures thereof.

- the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular the dilinoleate dimer esters; such esters can in particular be chosen from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool H or mixtures,

-butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose name INCI is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sahara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sahara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

- totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil soy, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (name INCI Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the partially hydrogenated jojoba oil isomerized trans manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the reference

2016/10/14 10:41:25 6/12 commercial Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil as, for example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance.

The aliphatic esters of ester are advantageously chosen from:

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil 5 with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of the hydrogenated castor oil with the isostearic acid in the proportions 1 pouf 2 (1/2), which is called the hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,

- remain as a result of the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called the hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,

- and their mixtures.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pasty fatty substance of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

MOISTURIZING AGENTS

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one hydrating agent.

Mention may thus be made of Ca-Cx, preferably C ₃ -C6 polyols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, said polyois are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the polyol (s) are chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropyiene glycol, diglyceryl, and their mixtures,

Preferably, the polyol content represents from 0.1 to 16% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

As specified above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 35% by weight of water, preferably at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15 to 60% by weight.

2016/10/14 10:41:25 7/12 weight, in particular from 15% to 50% by weight, and even more particularly from 20 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase can constitute the continuous phase of the composition.

By composition with an aqueous continuous phase is meant that a pH value can be measured for the composition with an appropriate electrode (for example a conductor meter MPC227 from Mettler Toledo). As an indication, the pH of the composition is between 6.5 and 7.5.

By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned in particular lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and aldehydes in C2-C4.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 10% by weight (limits included) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 5% by weight (limits included) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free from mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, said mono-alcohol (s) comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms is / are chosen from ethanol, butanol, inethanol or isopropanol

However, the content of aqueous phase previously indicated does not include the 30 contents of each of the compounds mentioned.

A composition according to the invention can also comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as coloring matters, fillers or cosmetic active agents.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, affected by the addition envisaged. .

COLORING MATERIALS

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one coloring material. Preferably, the latter is chosen from water-soluble or non-soluble, liposoluble or not, organic or inorganic dyestuffs, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring matter” is intended to mean a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in a sufficient amount in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble coloring matter.

The water-soluble dyes used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

By "water-soluble dye" is meant within the meaning of the invention, any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, the term “water-soluble” is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25 ° C., at the rate of a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (obtaining of a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / 1.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Sel Na), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570 ), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

By way of illustration and without limitation of sources of water-soluble coloring matter (s) capable of being used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts carmine, cochineal, beet, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, betacarotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyne, capsorubin, flovoxanthin, lutein , cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

It can also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine and disodium salt of fuschine.

Some of these water-soluble coloring matters are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may more particularly be made of dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble coloring matter (s) to be transferred to the skin and / or the lips intended to be made up, are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium of so as to be compatible with an impregnation at the level of the substrate.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring matter (s) are chosen from the di-sodium salt of the brilliant yellow FCF sold by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the di salt -sodium acid fuchsin D sold by the company LCW under the name DC Red 33, the tri-sodium salt of Rouge Allura sold by the company LCW under the name FD & C Red 40.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention only comprises water-soluble dyes as coloring matters.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention can comprise, in addition to the water-soluble dyes described above, one or more additional dyes, in particular liposoluble dyes, or dyes of the pigment or pearl type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of dyes of the fluorane type such as for example Red 21, Red 27, or their mixtures.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

The pigments can be chosen from monochrome pigments, lacquers, nacres, pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

The mineral pigments can be chosen from metallic oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures.

The organic pigments can be for example:

- cochineal carmine,

- organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes;

- organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo dyes, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic , triphenylmethane, fluorane. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;

- melanin pigments.

Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned D&C Blue n ° 4, D&C Brown n ° 1, D&C Green n ° 5, D&C Green n ° 6, D&C Orange n ° 4, D&C Orange n ° 5, D&C Orange n ° 10 , D&C Orange n ° ll, D&C Red n ° 6, D&C Red n ° 7, D&C Red n ° 17, D&C Red n ° 21, D&C Red n ° 22, D&C Red n ° 27, D&C Red n ° 28, D&C Red n ° 30, D&C Red n ° 31, D&C Red n ° 33, D&C Red n ° 34, D&C Red n ° 36, D&C Violet n ° 2, D&C Yellow n ° 7, D&C Yellow n ° 8, D&C Yellow n ° 10, D&C Yellow n ° ll, FD&C Blue n ° 1, FD&C Green n ° 3, FD&C Red n ° 40, FD&C Yellow n ° 5, FD&C Yellow n ° 6.

The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl groups perfluoropolyethers, amino acids ; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are in particular described in application EP-A-1086683.

By "mother-of-pearl", within the meaning of the present application, is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye in particular of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

By way of illustration of the nacres which can be introduced as an interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of the gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-colored mother-of-pearl in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper reflective nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflective nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflection in particular marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with reflection silvery in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish orange-green pearl-green in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

The coloring material (s) can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 6 % by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition

ADDITIONAL USUAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

A composition according to the invention can also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which can be chosen in particular from antioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic), distinct from alkylcellulose and in particular distinct from ethylcellulose, semi-polymer crystalline, liposoluble or hydrosoluble hydrating agents, different from the polyols mentioned above, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sun filters, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radical agents, sequestrants, and their mixtures.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one hydrocarbon resin whose number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2000 g / mol.

The number average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by liquid chromatography by gel permeation (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).

More particularly, these resins can be indene hydrocarbon resins (in particular those, optionally hydrogenated, resulting from the polymerization in majority proportion of indene monomer and in minority proportion of monomer chosen from styrene, methylindene, methylstyrene and their mixtures); aliphatic resins of pentanediene (especially resulting from the polymerization mainly of the 1,3-pentanediene monomer (trans or cis piperylene) and of minority monomer (s) chosen from isoprene, butene, 2- methyl-2-butene, pentene, 1,4-pentanediene and mixtures thereof); mixed pentanediene and indene resins (for example resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of pentanediene and indene monomers such as those described above); diene resins of the cyclopentanediene dimers (for example derived from the polymerization of the first monomer chosen from indene and styrene, and from the second monomer chosen from the cyclopentanediene dimers such as dicyclopentanediene, methyldicyclopentanediene, the other dimers of pentanediene, and their mixtures); diene resins of isoprene dimers (for example terpene resins resulting in particular from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from oc-pinene, oc-pinene, limonene, and their mixtures).

More particularly suitable are the indene hydrocarbon resins, the aliphatic resins of pentadiene, the mixed resins of pentanediene and indene, the diene resins of the cyclopentanediene dimers, the diene resins of the isoprene dimers or their mixtures, and more advantageously, in particular indene hydrocarbon resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins or mixtures thereof; and preferably the indene hydrocarbon resins.

Even more especially, mention may be made of hydrogenated indene / methylstyrene / styrene copolymers; such as those marketed under the name "REGALITE" by the company Eastman Chemical, such as REGALITE R 1100, REGALITE R 1090, REGALITE R-7100, REGALITE R1010 HYDROCARBON RESIN, REGALITE RI 125 HYDROCARBON RESIN.

Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the content of these hydrocarbon resins, the number average molecular weight of which is less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, is less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition does not include such hydrocarbon resins.

A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and better still the lips.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is a liquid lipstick.

By way of illustration of liquid compositions for the lips, mention may in particular be made of glosses and / or more generally liquid lipsticks.

The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

The examples and figures which follow are presented by way of nonlimiting illustration of the invention.

EXAMPLES 1 to 4 AND COMPARATIVE:

The following liquid lip compositions comprising the raw materials indicated below have been prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed by mass of commercial product):

Ingredients composition AT comparative composition 1 invention composition 2 invention composition 3 invention composition 4 invention Dyes water-soluble 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 RED 7 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ethylcellulose (dispersion in water 30% dry matter, containing ethylcellulose, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol; AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer) 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 31.3 Propylene glycol dibenzoate (LEXFEEL SHINE, from Inolex Chemical Company) - 31.3 31.3 31.3 23.3 Octyldodecanol 33 1.5 1.5 1.5 - Pentaerythrityl tetra-isostearate (CRODAMOL PTISLQ- (MV), from Croda - - - - 1.5 Dimethicone (BELSIL DM 100, from Dow Corning) - - 22 8.5 - T rimethy 1 sil oxy phenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000, from Dow Corning) 22 22 - 8.5 22 Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (KF-56, from ShinEtsu) - - - - 8.0 Isohexadecane - - - 5.00 - Sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (ARLACEL 2121-UFL- (MV), from Croda) 4 4 4 4 4 Ethanol / phenoxy ethanol 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4 Sweeteners - - - qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Protocol for preparing the compositions:

1 / The predispersed ethylcellulose is mixed in water and most of the hydrocarbon phase (propylene glycol dibenzoate, octyldodecanol or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate), with Rayneri stirring at a temperature between 50-55 ° C (at less 1500 rpm).

2 / Once a homogeneous dispersion is obtained, the mixture of surfactants is added, with stirring, then the hydroxypropyl guar and the stirring is maintained until homogenization.

4 / The silicone oil or oils are then introduced little by little, and the isohexadecane if necessary, while maintaining sufficient agitation to keep a good vortex in the mixture.

5 / Once the introduction is complete, allow to cool, stirring for about 10 minutes.

6 / The water-soluble dyes mixed with the remaining water are then added, then the Red 7 and the rest of the hydrocarbon phase previously mixed, and finally the phenoxyethanol and the ethanol, the sweeteners if necessary, with stirring.

7 / The mixture, once homogenized, is packaged in a hot water bottle.

Reviews

The appearance, the homogeneity, the stability of the compositions, as well as the properties of use of the compositions and the characteristics of the deposits obtained after application of the compositions were then evaluated (non-stickiness, migration, non-transfer, color, shine).

The homogeneity of the compositions was evaluated visually, after 24 hours of storage at 25 ° C.

The uniformity and the shine of the deposits were assessed visually, by comparison of the different deposits between them.

The non-sticking character, the properties of non-migration, of non-transfer and of color fastness of the deposits can be evaluated by means of the protocols below, given for information.

Application of the compositions:

The composition is applied to clean lips, making them up separately in two passes only and removing the composition only once for each lip.

Once the lips have been made up, the distribution of the deposit is uniformed by tightening the lips and sliding them against each other by making a round trip.

Stickiness assessment test:

Once the lips have been made up as indicated above, the stickiness is evaluated by the force necessary to take off the lips in one go (sensory evaluation).

This evaluation is made immediately after makeup and 3 minutes after.

The more difficult the lips are to peel off, the stickier the product.

It is also possible to evaluate the tights using a TAXT2Î texturometer.

The composition is deposited on several stainless steel cups 100 μm deep and is leveled off as quickly as possible. The cups are left to dry at room temperature for 1 hour.

The clamp mounted on the TAXT2Î texturometer clamps a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder at the end of which is stuck an end cap made of smooth synthetic skin material of the same diameter and 2 mm thick.

The parameters of the compression tests with maintenance over time are indicated as follows: approach speed 1 mm / s; speed from contact detection: 0.1 mm / s; force: 0.283 N (i.e. a pressure of 0.01 MP a); hold time: 3 seconds; withdrawal speed: 0.1 mm / s.

Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol.

Exploitation of the results: The tights are characterized by the release work measured during the discharge (phase in traction), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joule per square meter.

Migration assessment test:

Once the lips have been made up as indicated above, the contour of the lips is observed 30 minutes after application (sensory; at least 20 people; the scores assigned range from 0 to 15; the lower the value the lower the migration).

Non-transfer assessment test:

Once the lips have been made up as indicated above, a kiss is made on a white cup 5 minutes after application.

We observe the color transferred to the cup.

Color fastness test:

We take a photo of the bare lips and the lips once made up as indicated above, just after application,

The evaluation of the color fastness is carried out one hour after application of the composition and, after a series of standardized tests (“kissing” on a tissue, taking cold and hot drink, and taking a small standardized meal, such as eating a few bites of a sandwich and an apple). We take a picture of the lips just before and after the tests.

A SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 chromasphere is used for this purpose as described in application FR 2 829 344 and comparison and scoring by means of an atlas.

Results

All the compositions obtained are stable after 24 hours of storage at 25 ° C. The compositions are easy to apply and give a uniform, fresh, comfortable and shiny deposit.

Composition % color hold (panel 6 people) Migration After 1:30 p.m. (panel 20 people) Comparative Composition A 18 ± 8 2.8 Composition 1 invention 51 ± 16 1.5 (*) Composition 2 invention 44 ± 13 0.5 Composition 3 invention 40 ± 16 1.2 Composition 4 invention 50 ± 15 0.8

(*) after 2 hours.

The deposit obtained from the comparative composition is fine and not very sticky.

Those obtained by using the compositions according to the invention are all finer and much less tacky.

In addition, the table above shows that the compositions according to the invention have a significantly higher color fastness than that of the comparative composition.

Furthermore, the migration values are also significantly improved compared to that achieved with the comparative composition, which is in itself very satisfactory.

EXAMPLES 5 and COMPARATIVE:

The following liquid compositions were prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed by mass of commercial product).

Ingredients comparative composition B composition 5 invention Water-soluble dyes 0.26 0.26 RED 7 1.5 1.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.2 0.2

Ethylcellulose (dispersion in water - 30% dry matter, containing ethylcellulose, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol; AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer) 31.3 31.3 Octyldodecanol 25 9.3 Propylene glycol dibenzoate (LEXFEEL SHINE, from Inolex Chemical Company) 7.8 23.5 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000, from Dow Corning) 22 22 Ethanol / phenoxyethanol 4 4 Sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (ARLACEL 2121U-FL- (MV), from Croda) 4 4 Water qs 100 qs 100

Protocol for preparing the compositions

1 / The predispersed ethylcellulose is mixed in water and most of the hydrocarbon phase (propylene glycol dibenzoate, octyldodecanol), with stirring

Rayneri at a temperature between 50-55 ° C (at least 1500 rpm).

2 / Once a homogeneous dispersion is obtained, the mixture of surfactants is added, with stirring, then the hydroxypropyl guar and the stirring is maintained until homogenization.

4 / The silicone oil (s) are then introduced little by little, while maintaining sufficient stirring to keep a good vortex in the mixture.

5 / Once the introduction is complete, allow to cool, with stirring for about 10 minutes.

6 / Add, the water-soluble dyes and the remaining water, then Red 7 and the remaining part of the hydrocarbon phase previously mixed, and finally phenoxyethanol and

1 ’ethanol with stirring.

7 / The mixture, once homogenized, is packaged in a hot water bottle.

The compositions are stable, homogeneous, easy to apply and giving fine, fresh, homogeneous, shiny, comfortable deposits.

The composition according to the invention is slightly less tacky, transfers less product and exhibits better color fastness than the comparative composition.

EXAMPLE 6

The following lip composition was prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed by mass of commercial product).

Ingredients Composition 6 Water-soluble dyes 0.26 RED 7 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.2 Ethylcellulose (water dispersion - 30% solids, containing ethylcellulose, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol; AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer) 31.4 Propylene glycol dibenzoate (LEXFEEL SHINE, from Inolex Chemical Company) 31.4 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649; from Cremer Oleo) 1.3 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000, from Dow Corning) 22 Sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (ARLACEL 2121-U-FL (MV), from Croda) 4 Ethanol / phenoxyethanol 4 Sweeteners qs Water qs 100

Composition preparation protocol

1 / The predispersed ethylcellulose is mixed in water and most of the hydrocarbon phase (propylene glycol dibenzoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2), with Rayneri stirring at a temperature between 50-55 ° C (at least 1500 rpm).

2 / Once a homogeneous dispersion is obtained, the mixture of surfactants is added, with stirring, then Thyxypropyl guar and Ton continues stirring until homogenization.

4 / The silicone oil is then introduced little by little, maintaining sufficient agitation to keep a good vortex in the mixture.

5 / Once the introduction is complete, allow to cool, with stirring for about 10 minutes.

6 / The water-soluble dyes and the remaining water are added, then the Red 7 and the remaining part 15 of the hydrocarbon phase previously mixed, and finally the phenoxyethanol, the ethanol and the sweeteners, with stirring.

7 / The mixture, once homogenized, is packaged in a hot water bottle.

The composition is stable, homogeneous, easy to apply. The resulting deposit is fine, fresh, homogeneous, shiny, comfortable and non-sticky.

The composition according to the invention transfers little, exhibits improved color fastness and does not migrate.

EXAMPLE 7

The following liquid composition for the lips has been prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed by mass of commercial product).

Ingredients Composition 7 Water-soluble dyes 0.26 RED 7 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.2 Ethylcellulose (water dispersion - 30% solids, containing ethylcellulose, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol; AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer) 31.3 Propylene glycol dibenzoate (LEXFEEL SHINE, from Inolex Chemical Company) 26.3 Octyldodecanol 1.5 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649; from Cremer Oleo) 5.0 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000, from Dow Corning) 22 Sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (ARLACEL 2121-U-FL- (MV), from Croda) 4 Ethanol / phenoxyethanol 4 Sweetener qs Water qs 100

Composition preparation protocol

1 / The predispersed ethylcellulose is mixed in water and most of the hydrocarbon phase (propylene glycol dibenzoate, octyldodecanol, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2), with Rayneri stirring at a temperature between 50-55 ° C (at less 1500 rpm).

2 / Once a homogeneous dispersion is obtained, the mixture of surfactants is added, with stirring, then the hydroxypropyl guar and the stirring is maintained until homogenization.

4 / The silicone oil is then introduced little by little, maintaining sufficient agitation to keep a good vortex in the mixture.

5 / Once the introduction is complete, allow to cool, with stirring for about 10 minutes.

6 / Add, the water-soluble dyes and the remaining water, then Red 7 and the remaining part of the hydrocarbon phase previously mixed, and finally phenoxyethanol and ethanol, a sweetener with stirring.

7 / The mixture, once homogenized, is packaged in a hot water bottle.

The composition is stable, homogeneous, easy to apply.

The resulting deposit is fine, fresh, uniform, shiny, comfortable and non-sticky.

The composition transfers little, exhibits good color fastness.

2016/10/14 10:41:25 8/12

Claims (16)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous emulsion containing: (À) at least 5% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition; 5 (B) at least alkylcellulosc, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms; (C) at least a first non-volatile oil (C) chosen from silicone oils; (D) at least one second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (D) chosen from the esters of a diol, in particular C ₂ -Cio, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and of acid 10 benzoic; (E) at least one surfactant, preferably a hydrocarbon. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15% to 60% by weight, and better still from 20% to 50%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcelluiose and propylcellulose, preferably ethylcelluiose. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is present in a content, expressed as dry matter of alkylcellulose, varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 4.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first non-volatile oil (C) is chosen from non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular dimethicones, and from phenylated non-volatile silicones, preferably phenyl trimethicones, phenyl 35 dimethicones, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and mixtures thereof, and preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones 2016/10/14 10:41:25 9/12 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight of first (s) non-volatile oil (s) siiiconée (s) (C) , in particular from 5 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (D) is selected from diesters of a C ₂ -Cio diol, _more particularly C ₂ -cis linear or branched, saturated, and benzoic acid, preferably from ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol 10 dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second (s) non-vplatile oil (s) hydrocarbon (s) (D) varying between 5 and 40% by weight, more particularly between 5 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant (s) (E) are chosen from surfactants 20 hydrocarbons, preferably nonionic, more particularly chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, preferably non polyoxyethylenated; fatty alcohols, having at least 8 carbon atoms, and which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units; their mixtures. 25 Π. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content of surfactant (s) ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, 30 characterized in that it comprises at least one additional polar hydrocarbon-based oil distinct from the second oil (D) preferably chosen from: • Cio-C ₂ 6 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; preferably octyldodecanol; • monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono acid or March 5-C₆ polycarboxylic C ₂ and a C ₂ C₆ alkyl; • the esters of a C ₂ -C 8 polyol and of one or more C ₂ -C ₆ carboxylic acids; • ester oils having at least 17 carbon atoms, such as in particular: * monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms * fatty acid monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms and diol 2016/10/14 10:41:25 10/12 * diesters containing at least 17 carbon atoms * monoesters and hydroxyl diesters containing at least 18 carbon atoms * triesters containing at least 35 carbon atoms 5 * tetraesters comprising at least 3 5 carbon atoms * polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol * esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid * polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one acid triglyceride 10 hydroxylated carboxylic (s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated * vegetable hydrocarbon oils * sucrose esters "mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized eii that it comprises a non-volatile oil (s) hydrocarbon (s) additional polar content (s) content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 1.6. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, 14. Composition according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the content of additional non-volatile oil (s) polar (s) represents at most 50% by weight, more particularly at most 40% by weight, preferably at most 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the mixture of the second (s) 25 non-volatile hydrocarbon oils (D) and! additional polar non-volatile oils. 15. Composition According to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon oil 30 apolar, preferably chosen from: * paraffin oil or its fractions, * squalane, * isoeicosan, ·. · Naphthalene oil, 35 · polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, * polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, * polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, hydrogenated Cg-Cw polyolefins, * decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, * mixtures thereof, 2016/10/14 10:41:25 1 1/12 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-volatile oil (s) hydrocarbon (s) additional (s) apolar (s) is between 0.5 and 12% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one stabilizing agent chosen from hydrophilic gelling agents, preferably chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, in particular such as galactomannans and their derivatives, 10 biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, gums from plant exudates, pectins, alginates, starches, their mixtures. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring material. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one additional compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and their mixtures. 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in liquid form. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is a makeup and / or care composition 25 keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the skin, and better still the lips. 22. Cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, and better still the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratin materials at least one composition 30 as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 21. National registration number FA 829463 FR 1657560