FR2983709A1 - Oil-in-water emulsion having specified pH value, used to package article, comprises nonionic emulsifying system comprising e.g. fatty acid ether and polyalkylene glycol, and fatty alcohol, lipophilic UV filter and skin coloring agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Oil-in-water emulsion comprises: a nonionic emulsifying system comprising fatty acid ether and polyalkylene glycol, fatty acid ester and polyalkylene glycol, fatty alcohol, fatty acid ester and polyol, and carboxylic acid ester and fatty alcohol polyalkylene-glycol ether; a lipophilic UV filter; and a skin coloring agent, where the emulsion has a pH of 3-5.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, and in particular the field of photoprotective and self-tanning cosmetic compositions. More particularly, the invention relates to oil-in-water emulsions, topically applied, characterized by a pH of between 3 and 5, stabilized by a non-ionic emulsifying system, and comprising a lipophilic UV filter, and a surfactant. coloring of the skin. It is known that radiations of wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allow tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation of wavelength between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-rays. B interfere with the development of the natural tan. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin. It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods of time, under normal conditions can lead to degradation of collagen and elastin fibers which results in a modification of the micro-relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and irregular pigmentation (brown spots, heterogeneity of complexion). UV rays must be filtered, and there are currently protective cosmetic compositions of the human epidermis containing UV filters, active vis-à-vis the filtration of UVA and UVB radiation. In addition, there are skin coloring agents, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which make it possible to obtain color effects of the skin sought by consumers. In particular, when using sun products in the first days of exposure to UV radiation, skin coloring products are sought to obtain a tanned complexion before the effects of tanning are manifested. There are thus solar formulations comprising a skin coloring agent such as DHA. However, such formulas have limited filtering efficiency, corresponding to an SPF level equal to 15, which is not sufficient to effectively protect against UV radiation, especially under intense sun during the first exposures. US 5,824,666 discloses oil-in-water emulsions shown as stable, of acidic pH and comprising fatty alcohol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers.

US 5,948,416 discloses oil-in-water emulsions comprising UV filters, fatty alcohol ethers and polyalkylene glycol, and fatty alcohols. EP 1 964 540 and WO 2009/007307 disclose oil-in-water emulsions comprising a UVA filter, self-tanning agents, and a mixture comprising a fatty acid ester of glycerol, a fatty alcohol, fatty alcohol ethers. and polyalkylene glycol and a fatty acid ester of fatty alcohol. There is a need for self-tanning photoprotective compositions having a high UV filtration level, good skin coloring properties and excellent cosmetic qualities.

There is still a need for self-tanning photoprotective compositions, especially in emulsion form, having good stability over time. There is still a need for self-tanning photoprotective compositions, especially in emulsion form, which are of pleasant appearance and comfortable to apply. The present invention aims, in particular, to meet these needs. Thus, according to one of its first objects, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable support: at least one nonionic emulsifying system comprising: at least one fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol, at least one fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol ester, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one fatty acid and polyol ester, and at least one carboxylic acid ester and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether ester; fatty alcohol, at least one lipophilic UV filter, and at least one skin coloring agent, said emulsion having a pH ranging from 3 to 5. Unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that it is possible to stably formulating an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion by carrying out a specific emulsifying system, the emulsion having a pH ranging from 3 to 5, and comprising a lipophilic UV filter, and a skin coloring agent. Such emulsions are particularly stable over time, and have a high level of UV filtration, good skin coloring properties and excellent cosmetic qualities. In addition, they are comfortable to apply and have a pleasant appearance. Such emulsions are therefore particularly suitable for topical application in the cosmetic field for carrying out photoprotective and self-tanning actions. In yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a packaging article comprising an emulsion of the invention. According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a use of a nonionic emulsifying system comprising at least one fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol, at least one fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol ester, at least one a fatty alcohol, at least one fatty acid ester of polyol, and at least one carboxylic acid ester and polyalkylene glycol fatty alcohol ether, for stabilizing an oil-in-water emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier at least one lipophilic UV filter, and at least one skin-coloring agent, the pH of said emulsion varying from 3 to 5. According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the skin. the skin comprising at least one step of applying to at least a portion of the surface of the skin at least one layer of an emulsion of the invention. Advantageously, the emulsions of the invention have good stability over time.

Advantageously, the emulsions of the invention apply homogeneously to the skin. Also advantageously, the emulsions of the invention have good skin coloring properties. Also, according to another advantage, the emulsions of the invention have a high level of UV protection. Non-ionic emulsifying system A nonionic emulsifying system of the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol, at least one fatty acid ester and polyalkylene glycol, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one a fatty acid and polyol ester, and at least one carboxylic acid ester and polyoxyalkylene ether of fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a nonionic emulsifying system is present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20% by weight, and still more preferably from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol ether A fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol ether (or alkoxylated fatty alcohol ether) according to the invention may be an ether of a C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohol and a polyoxyalkylene comprising from 1 to 100 alkylene oxide units. A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be C12-C24, in particular C14-C22, and more particularly C16-C22. The fatty chain of fatty alcohols may in particular be chosen from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl. More preferably, a fatty alcohol suitable for the invention may be cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The polyalkylene glycol sequences that are suitable for the invention may advantageously be polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol sequences, or combinations thereof, comprising from 1 to 100 units, especially from 2 to 50 units, preferably from 3 to 40 units, more preferably from 5 to 30 units, and more preferably from 10 to 20 alkylene oxide units. According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol and polyalkylene glycol ethers which can be used according to the invention are ethers formed from 2 to 30 or even from 5 to 20 and preferably from 10 to 15 oxide units. ethylene or propylene oxide, and at least one chain of fatty alcohol having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. By way of example of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of behenic alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: BEHENETH-5, BEHENETH-10, BEHENETH-20 , BEHENETH-30), such as the products sold under the names NIKKOL BBS, BB10, BB20, BB30 by the company NIKKO, and the stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: STEARETH- 2), such as the product sold under the name BRU 72 by the company ICI. As an example of propoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of oxypropylenated stearyl alcohol (15 PO) sold under the name ARLAMOL PS15E-LQ- (RB). According to a preferred embodiment, a fatty alcohol ether and a polyalkylene glycol suitable for the invention may be polyoxethylene (20) stearyl ether (or STEARETH-20), polyoxethylene (20) cetyl ether (or CETETH-20). oxypropylene stearyl alcohol (15 PO), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol is present in a composition of the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol ester A fatty acid of a fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol ester that is suitable for the invention may be a C 8 -C 24, especially C 10 -C 22, fatty acid, more particularly C12-C20, and more preferably C14-C18. Advantageously, a fatty acid may be C12-C22. A fatty acid can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Examples of fatty acids that are suitable for the invention include capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and arachidic acid. Behenic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, archidonic acid, or erucic acid. An example of a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid polymer is polyl 2-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, a fatty acid may be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachadic acid or palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof. The polyalkylene glycol sequences that are suitable for the invention may advantageously be polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol sequences, or combinations thereof, and preferably are polyethylene glycol sequences, comprising from 1 to 100 units, in particular from 2 to 50 units, preferably from 4 to 40 units, more preferably from 6 to 30 units, and more preferably from 8 to 20 units of alkylene oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol esters which can be used according to the invention are esters formed from 1 to 100, even from 2 to 75, even from 3 to 50, and preferably from 4 to 40. units of ethylene oxide and at least one fatty acid chain having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. By way of example of ethoxylated fatty esters which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name MYRJ 52 (CTFA name PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, or the behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compitol HD5 ATO by the company GATTEFOSSE, or isostearate of PEG-8 such as the product marketed under the name PRISORINE 3644 by the company UNIQUEMA, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, a fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol ester suitable for the invention may be PEG-75 stearate. Preferably, a fatty acid and polyalkylene glycol ester is present in a composition of the invention. an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty alcohol A fatty alcohol that can be used according to the invention is formed of a fatty chain comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 24, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

According to one embodiment, the fatty chain may in particular be chosen from lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, arachidyl and palmityl units, and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols that are particularly suitable for the invention may be chosen from the cetyl alcohol sold under the name Lanette 16 by the company Cognis, or the stearyl alcohol sold under the name Lanette 18 by the company Cognis, or else cetearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE O OR by the company COGNIS. Preferably, when it is used in a composition of the invention, a fatty alcohol is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight. by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty Acid and Polyol Ester An emulsion of the invention may comprise a fatty acid ester of polyol other than a fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol as described above. By "fatty acid esters and emulsifying polyols" according to the invention is meant esters of fatty acids or of fatty acid polymers and polyols in which the fatty acid or the fatty acid polymer comprises at least one less a carboxylic function and a C7-C23 alkyl chain, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, a polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.

A fatty acid ester of polyol may be a polyester, and preferably a diester of fatty acids and polyol. A fatty acid and polyol ester suitable for the invention may comprise a fatty acid or a fatty acid polymer, and preferably a fatty acid, C 8 -C 24, in particular C 10 -C 22, more particularly C 12 -C 20 and more preferably C14-C18. A fatty acid can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. According to one embodiment, the fatty acid may be a dicarboxylic acid having from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as sebacic acid or dodecanedioic acid. Examples of fatty acids that are suitable for the invention include capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and arachidic acid. Behenic Acid, Plamitoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Archidonic Acid, or Erucic Acid. As an example of a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer, mention may be made of poly-2-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, a fatty acid suitable for the invention may be stearic or isostearic acid. In a particular embodiment, a fatty acid and polyol ester may be a C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 16 -C 20, fatty acid ester, and glycerol or polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof. By polyglycerol is meant a compound of the following general formula: in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 9 and even more preferably from 3 to 5. As preferred fatty acid and polyglycerol esters according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name ISOLAN GI34® by GOLDSCHIVIIDT, the polyglyceryl 4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS® by GOLDSCHMIDT, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name ARLACEL 1690® by the company UNIQEMA, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of fatty acid esters and polyols that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid esters and polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol, and and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name ISOLAN GI34® by the company Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate (3 moles) sold under the name LAMEFORM TGI® by the company COGNIS; polyglycerol distearate (2 moles) sold under the name EMALEX PGSA® by the company NIHON EMULSION; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name NIKKOL DECAGLYN 1-IS by the company NIHON SURFACTANT (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by GOLDSCHMIDT; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name ARLACEL 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name ARLACEL 1690 by the company UNIQEMA, and their mixtures. Preferably, as fatty acid ester and polyol suitable for the invention, mention may be made of glyceryl monoisostearate, such as the product marketed under the name PECEOL ISOSTARIC by the company GATTEFOSSE, the isostearate polyglycerol (4 moles) sold under the name ISOLAN GI34 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, diisostearate polyglycerol (3 moles) sold under the name LAMEFORM TGI by the company COGNIS and polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name EMALEX PGSA by the company NIHON EMULSION. Preferably, when it is used in a composition of the invention, a fatty acid and polyol ester is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Carboxylic ester of polyalkylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol An ester of carboxylic acid and polyalkylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol that is suitable for the invention may comprise a polyalkylene glycol sequence etherified by a fatty alcohol residue as defined above. for the ethers of fatty alcohol and polyalkylene glycols, and further be esterified with a carboxylic acid. Preferably the fatty alcohol may be C 1 -C 16, and more preferably may be myristic alcohol. Preferably, the polyalkylene glycol block may consist of oxypropylene units, and comprise from 10 to 30 units, and preferably 30 units.

The polyalkylene glycol block is further esterified with a C2 to C6, and preferably C3 to C5, carboxylic acid. Such an acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. More preferably, the carboxylic acid is propionic acid. An ester of a carboxylic acid and a polyalkylene glycol ether of a fatty alcohol that is particularly suitable for the invention may be the oxypropylenated myristic alcohol propionate 2 OP, such as the product marketed under the name CRODAMOL PMP-LQ-MH by the company CRODA. Preferably, when it is used in a composition of the invention, a fatty alcohol polyalkylene glycol ether ester is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, an emulsifying system that is suitable for the invention may comprise at least one PEG-75 stearate, a fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol chosen from polyoxethylene (20) stearyl ether (or STEARETH-20). , a polyoxethylene (20) cetyl ether (or CETETH-20), and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic emulsifier chosen from a fatty alcohol. Preferably the fatty alcohol may be cetyl alcohol.

An emulsifying system that is suitable for the invention may be the emulsifying system sold under the name Emulium Delta by Gattefosse. According to a preferred embodiment, an emulsifying system of the invention may furthermore comprise an additional fatty alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol polyalkylene glycol ether ester, preferably a myristic alcohol propionate. oxypropylenated 2 PO, a fatty alcohol ether and additional polyalkylene glycol, preferably oxypropylene stearyl alcohol (15 OP) marketed under the name ARLAMOL PS15E-LQ- (RB).

Lipophilic UV Filter The term "lipophilic UV filter" means a molecule capable of filtering UV radiation between 290 and 400 nm, which can be solubilized in the molecular state or dispersed in an oily phase in order to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase.

An emulsion or a composition of the invention may comprise at least one organic lipophilic UV filter chosen from active organic UV filters in the UVA and / or UVB.

A lipophilic organic UV filter suitable for the invention may be chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of (3, P-diphenylacrylate, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in US Pat. benzoxazole derivatives, as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844, the screening and screening silicone polymers, such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665, the dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in the patent application DE19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadienes, as described in the applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981, the merocyanine derivatives such as those described in US Pat. Applications W004 / 006878, W005 / 058269, W006 / 032741, FR2957249 and FR2957250, and mixtures thereof As examples of UV filters that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of: UV-A filters Derivatives of dibenzoylmethan e: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS INC .; Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane; Aminobenzophenones: n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL A +" by BASF; 1,1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) Anthranilic derivatives: - Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN MA" by SYMRISE; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene; Merocyanine derivatives: - Octy 1-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate; In the context of the invention, and according to one particular embodiment, the following UVA lipophilic filters may be used: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; and / or - N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; UV-B Filters Para-aminobenzoates: Ethyl PABA; - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA; Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP); Salicylic derivatives: - Homosalate sold in particular under the name "EUSOLEX HMS" by RONA / EM INDUSTRIES; Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold in particular under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by SYMRISE; - Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER; - TEA Salicylate and under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by SYMRISE; Cinnamates: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, INC. ; Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate; - Isoamyl methoxy cinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by SYMRISE; Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate; - Cinnoxate; - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate; Derivatives of (3, (3'-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF; Benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex, Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl Sw" by Chimex, derivatives of triazine Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate), dineopentyl) -s-triazine; 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -6- (4 ' n-butylaminobenzoate) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (4'-amino benzoate) n-butyl) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine. Imidazoline derivatives: - Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, benzalmalonate derivatives: - Benzalmalonate-functional polyorganosiloxanes such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate; In the context of the invention and according to a particular embodiment, the following lipophilic UV-B filters can be used in the composition according to the invention: - ethylhexylsalicylate; Octocrylene; - Ethylhexyl triazone. Mixed UVA and UVB Filters Benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF; - Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; - Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-10; Benzophenone-11; - Benzophenone-12; Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometzole Trisiloxane sold in particular under the name "Silatriazole" by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name "Meroxyl XL" by the company Chimex; The bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives: - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold in particular under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by CIBA GEIGY; The benzoxazole derivatives: - 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5- triazine sold in particular under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V; The preferred UVA and UVB organic screening agents may be chosen from: - Drometzole Trisiloxane; - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. An emulsion or a composition of the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic UV filter chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of n-hexyl; Ethylhexylsalicylate; Octocrylene; Ethylhexyl triazone; Drometzole Trisiloxane; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; and their mixtures. An emulsion or a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic UV filter in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. Skin Coloring Agents An emulsion or composition of the invention may comprise a skin coloring agent selected from the self-tanning agents. According to a preferred embodiment, the skin-coloring agent is a mono- or polycarbonyl-self-tanning agent, in particular chosen from isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, and the like. erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-diones derivatives, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Still more preferably, a self-tanning agent of the invention may be dihydroxyacetone. May also be suitable for the invention artificial skin coloring agents such as: (i) indole derivatives such as monohydroxyindoles as described in patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or di-hydroxyindoles as described in EP-B-0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindole); (ii) plant extracts artificial skin coloring agents such as: - "insoluble" red wood extracts of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 971683; - plant extracts of the genus Saxifraga such as Saxifraga cuneifolia, Saxifraga glaucescens, Saxifraga rotundifolia, Saxifraga granulata, Saxifraga bulbifera, Saxifraga umbrosa, Saxifraga tridactylites; - plant extracts of the genus Sorghum such as Sorghum caudatum, Sorghum Bicolor. (iii) fluoran type red or orange dyes such as - tetrabromofluorescein or eosin (CI 45380 or Red 21) - phloxin B (CI 45410 or Red 27) - diiodofluorescein (CI 45425 or Orange 10); dibromofluorescein (CI 45370 or Orange 5) - the sodium salt of tetrabromofluorescein (CI 45380 (Na salt) or Red 22) - the sodium salt of phloxine B (CI 45410 (Na salt) or Red 28) - the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein (CI 45425 (Na salt) or Orange 11); erythrosine (CI 45430 or Acid Red 51). Phloxine (CI 45405 or Acid Red 98). (iv) caramel, (v) and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, an emulsion or a composition of the invention may comprise a skin coloring agent in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the emulsions or compositions of the invention contains water, and optionally other organic solvents that are soluble or miscible with water.

An aqueous phase that is suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy waters, or water. floral. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water that are suitable for the invention include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C 1 -C 4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerine, and mixtures thereof may be used more particularly. The water or the aqueous phase may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, in particular from 35% to 75% by weight, and more particularly from 40% to 70%. by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

A water-soluble organic solvent may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition Oily phase An emulsion or composition of the invention comprises an oily phase comprising at least one oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" is intended to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil (s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10- 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm). of Hg). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). . An oil suitable for the invention may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil. An oil suitable for the invention may advantageously be selected from mineral hydrocarbon oils, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon oil which is suitable for the invention may, in addition, optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester or ether groups. and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups. An oily phase of an emulsion of the invention generally comprises, in addition to the at least one lipophilic UV filter, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil. a) Hydrocarbon oils As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triesters of glycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms ; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR 'in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R + R 'is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohols benzoate, and the like. product sold under the trade name "FINSOLV TN" or "WITCONOL TN" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226" by the ISP company, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, for example the compound sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois , the erucate of oleyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di-alkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI by the company Enichem Augustus Industrial, and linear di-alkyl C14-C15 tartrates, such as those sold under the name name COSMACOL ETL by the same company; acetates. (v) branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name "CETIOL CC" by the company COGNIS; (viii) fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name "ELDEW SL205" from AJINOMOTO and mixtures thereof. As volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as C8-C16 isoalkanes). isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters and neopentanoate. isohexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. b) Silicone oils The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and from which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group. An oily phase of a composition of the invention (excluding the organic lipophilic UV filter) preferably ranges from 1 to 70%, or even from 10 to 65%, or from 10 to 60% by weight and preferably from 5 to 40% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in oil, other fatty substances. Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid; and oleic acid; a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as waxes polyethylene, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.

Solid Particles According to a preferred embodiment, an emulsion or a composition of the invention may comprise solid particles. Such particles advantageously make it possible to optimize the sensory properties.

These solid particles are distinct from the dyestuffs. They are advantageously in the form of colorless or white, solid particles of any shape, and are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the compositions of the invention. They may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes their dispersion and their compatibility in the compositions. Among the mineral solid particles that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogencarbonate, hydroxyapatite and boron nitride. and their mixtures. Among the organic solid particles that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamide (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, carbon, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Toshiba's Tospearl®) polyurethane powders, especially crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the solid particles that are suitable for the invention may be inorganic particles such as silica, mica, talc or else synthetic polymers such as nylon, acrylic polymers, polyethylene, PTFE, PMMA, starch, silicones, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, it is possible to use as solid particles silica, in particular sold under the name SILICA BEAD SB150, or microspheres of acrylic polymers, sold especially under the name expancel 551 of 40 d42, or particles of starch. but modifies, in particular marketed under the name DRY FLO PLUS. The solid particles may be used in the emulsions or compositions of the invention in a proportion of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10%, and more preferably still 1 to 8% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition or emulsion. ADJUVANTS The compositions according to the present invention may further comprise one or more conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, defoamers, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, coloring agents, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition. Examples of organic solvents are lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can for example be used as care product and / or sun protection for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, creams or more. less creamy, or gel-creams. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray. The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517. The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.

Among the active ingredients, mention may be made of: vitamins (A, C, E, K, PP, etc.) and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in admixture, anti-aging agents, anti-oxidizing agents, anti-oxidizing agents, radicals - anti-glycation agents; the soothing agents; the NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts; agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes; - skin-relaxing agents; tensing agents, mattifying agents, keratolytic agents, desquamating agents; - Moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol. agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; insect repellents; antagonists of substances P or CRGP. anti-wrinkle agents, modulating agents for the pigmentation of the skin or hair, astringent agents, sebum regulating agents and anti-seborrhoeic agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. Obtaining emulsions May be suitable for the invention any process for preparing an oil-in-water emulsion usually used in the field. In particular, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and HHP type.

Packaging article A packaging article of the invention will naturally be chosen by those skilled in the art depending on the dosage form of the composition to be packaged. A composition of the invention can be advantageously packaged in a pot, a stick tube, a cream tube or paste, or in a container with flexible or deformable walls or rigid walls. A container consisting of a rigid envelope may comprise means for dispensing the composition. These dispensing means may be a single orifice whose closure is provided by a removable cap, or a push button associated with a pump for expelling a portion of the composition contained in the container. The compositions of the invention may be packaged in containers of the aerosol flask type. A container with flexible or deformable walls may be provided with an orifice which can be closed by a removable lid, the composition being expelled through the orifice by pressure on the walls, or a bottle with a push button and a pump. .

A composition of the invention can be stored under vacuum, in an airtight compartment, hermetically sealed, for example in the image of a brick vacuum. Also, a composition according to the invention may be packaged "under a protective atmosphere". "Protective atmosphere" packaging consists of modifying the composition of the internal atmosphere of a packaging in order to improve the life of its contents. This technique involves reducing oxygen levels to slow the growth of aerobic life forms and oxidation reactions. The oxygen removed can be replaced by other gases. A packaging article can be made at least in part of plastics or other suitable polymeric materials. According to a particular embodiment, a packaging article can also be produced using materials enabling the composition to be isolated from all light sources. The packaging article may also be at least partly made of thermal insulation materials. Examples of such materials are fabrics, silicone-coated fiberglass fabrics, ceramic fiber-based textiles, cellulose fibers, polystyrene, styrofoam, and silicone films. 'packaging. It is also possible to use a cold gel or liquid as thermal insulation material. According to a particular embodiment, a packaging article may be single-use and open just before its use by the consumer.

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or make-up of the skin. Such a method comprises at least one step of applying to at least a portion of the surface of the skin at least one layer of an emulsion or a cosmetic composition of the invention.

Advantageously, a method of the invention makes it possible to obtain a photoprotective and / or self-tanning effect on the surface of the treated skin. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for tanning and / or artificially browning the skin and comprising at least one step of applying thereon an effective amount of a composition of the invention.

Stability The emulsions of the invention are stable, that is to say that they do not see their microscopic and macroscopic modified after storage for 2 months at room temperature, ie about 25 ° C. The microscopic appearance of the emulsions is evaluated using an optical microscope and the sample placed between a slide and a coverslip; the macroscopic appearance is visually assessed by bare eye.

The measurement of the pH of an emulsion of the invention can be carried out as follows. The pH of the emulsion is measured using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 or SevenEasy pH meter. The pH of a composition or an emulsion of the invention may vary from 3 to 5, preferably from 3 to 4.5, and even more preferably from 3.2 to 4, or even from 3.5 to 3, 8. Size of oil drops The emulsions of the invention are characterized by an average size of oil drops greater than 1 micrometer.

By "average size" of the particles is meant the parameter D [4.3] measured using a "Mastersizer 2000" granulometer (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are illuminated is converted into a size distribution according to Mie's theory. The parameter D [4.3] is measured; it is the average diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For a spherical particle, we often speak of "average diameter". An emulsion of the invention may comprise oil drops of average size at least equal to 1 μm, and preferably ranging from 1 to 10 μm. Protocol for In Vitro Evaluation of Filtering Efficiency The filtering efficiency, or sun protection factor (SPF) of an emulsion of the invention, can be determined according to the "in vitro" method described by BL Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989).

An emulsion of the invention can be applied to a rough PMMA plate, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposition at a rate of 1 mg / cm 2. The measurements can be performed using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The content and the nature of the ingredients used in the compositions of the invention are adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to substantially affect the properties required for the compositions of the invention. The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. EXAMPLES Examples 1 and 2 The following oil-in-water emulsion type compositions were produced. Phases Ingredients Example 1 E Example 2 (outside the invention) A Water Qs 100 Qs 100 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 165) 0 1 Glycerin 6 6 Propylene glycol 6 6 Xanthan gum 0.5 0 Pentasodium salt ethylene 0.2 0.2 di-amine tetra-methylenephosphonic acid in 33% unstabilized water B Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (PARSOL 1789 -DSM) 45 45 Octocrylene (UVINUL N 539 -BASF) 4 4 Diisopropyl sebacate 5 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL 2 2 METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (Tinosorb S) DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (Uvinul A +) 1 1 Octyl salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS) 5 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (Uvinul 25 T150) DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 3 3 (Mexoryl XL) Alcoholic benzoate C12 / C18 (TEGOSOFT 5 TN) Cetearyl alcohol (LANETTE OR) 1.5 0 PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate (CRODAMOL PMP-MQ (LH)) PPG-15 stearyl ether (ARLAMOL PS15E LQ RB) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) PEG-75 STEARATE (and) CETETH-20 (and) STEARETH-20 (EMULIUM DELTA) 45 0 PHENOXYE THANOL 0.7 0.7 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 0.4 0.4 stearyl alcohol 0 1 C DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL (DOW CORNING 1503 FLUID) 2 0 D Water 8 4 Dihydroxyacetone 2 2.5 E Water 13.7 13.7 Citric acid 0.17 0.12 SODIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (and) SORBITAN OLEATE (SIMUGEL 800) 0 35 ALUMINUM STARCH 3 0 OCTENYLSUCCINATE (DRY FLOW PLUS) G Silica (Silica bead SB150) 2 1 H Ethanol 3 0 TOTAL 100 100 Preparation of the emulsions The aqueous A and oily B phases are prepared separately by mixing the raw materials with mechanical stirring at 80 ° C. The solutions obtained are macroscopically homogeneous. The emulsion is prepared by slow introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz type homogenizer under a stirring speed of 4500 rpm (rotation per minute) for 30 minutes.

The emulsion obtained is cooled at rest at 50 ° C. and then phase C is added with vigorous stirring. The emulsion obtained is cooled to room temperature and then, with gentle stirring (raynery 300 rpm), the phases D, E are added. , F and G.

Characterization of the emulsions The emulsions obtained have oil drops of size between 1 μm and 10 μm. The in vitro evaluation of the filtering efficiency or sun protection factor (SPF), the evaluation of the skin color, the pH, the stability and the diameter of the oil drops of the emulsions were determined as indicated in the description. pH 3.7 4 Average diameter of the drops (microns) 2 3 Viscosity (Pa. $) 0.374 2.25 Stability yes no SPF in vitro 55 + 1-6 37 +/- 6 The emulsion of the invention is advantageously stable has a pH between 3 and 5, and the oil drops have an average diameter greater than 1 μm. The SPF of the composition of the invention (Example 1) is about 55, while that of the composition outside the invention (Example 2) is about 37. The results obtained between an emulsion of the invention and an emulsion Comparative studies show that only the composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a high level of filtering efficiency, combined with good stability and excellent cosmetic qualities in terms of skin coloration and cosmetics.

For the composition based on another type of emulsifying ingredient, the performance in terms of filtering efficiency and skin coloration are lower than those of the composition of the invention.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. An oil-in-water emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable support: at least one nonionic emulsifying system comprising: at least one fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol ether; at least one fatty acid and polyalkylene ester; glycol, - at least one fatty alcohol, - at least one fatty acid and polyol ester, and - at least one carboxylic acid ester and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol, - at least one lipophilic UV filter, and at least one skin coloring agent, said emulsion having a pH ranging from 3 to 5. 2. Emulsion according to the preceding claim, wherein said fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol ether is an ether of a C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohol and a polyoxyalkylene block comprising from 1 to 100 alkylene oxide units. . An emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol ether is a C 12 -C 24, in particular C 14 -C 22, and more particularly C 16 -C 22 fatty alcohol ether, and preferably chosen from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyalkylene glycol fatty alcohol ether is a fatty alcohol ether and a polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol block, or a combination thereof. ci, comprising from 1 to 100 units, especially from 2 to 50 units, preferably from 3 to 40 units, more preferably from 5 to 30 units, and more preferably from 10 to 20 units of alkylene oxide. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a C 8 -C 24 fatty acid ester, especially C 10 -C 22, more particularly C 12 -C 20, and more preferably C14-C18, and preferably selected from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, archidonic acid, erucic acid, or poly12-hydroxystearic acid. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a fatty acid ester and a polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol block, or a combination thereof. ci, comprising from 1 to 100 units, especially from 2 to 50 units, preferably from 4 to 40 units, more preferably from 6 to 30 units, and more preferably from 8 to 20 units of alkylene oxide. 7. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said fatty alcohol is formed of a fatty chain comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 24, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably selected from lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, and mixtures thereof. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said fatty acid ester of polyol comprises a fatty acid or a fatty acid polymer of C 8 -C 24, in particular C 10 -C 22, more particularly C 12 -C 20 and more preferably C14-C18, and preferably selected from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, plamitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, archidonic acid, erucic acid, or poly12-hydroxystearic acid. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said fatty acid ester of polyol comprises a polyol selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said carboxylic acid ester and polyalkylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol, said carboxylic acid being C2-C6 and said one fatty alcohol ether and polyalkylene glycol being as defined in claims 2 to 4. 11. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said nonionic emulsifying system is present in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20%. by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said lipophilic UV filter is selected from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of (3, 3-diphenylacrylate, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, imidazolines, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA), benzoxazole derivatives; filter silicones, dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, 4,4-diarylbutadienes, merocyanine derivatives and mixtures thereof. 13. Emulsion according to the preceding claim, wherein said lipophilic UV filter is chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; Ethylhexylsalicylate; Octocrylene; Ethylhexyl triazone; Drometzole Trisiloxane; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; and their mixtures. 14. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said skin coloring agent is chosen from the self-tanning agents, and in particular is selected from isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, aldehyde mesotartri, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-diones derivatives, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives, and mixtures thereof, preferably is dihydoxyacetone . 15. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, said emulsion comprising oil drops of average size at least equal to 1 μm, and preferably ranging from 1 to 10 μm. 16. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, said emulsion comprising solid particles. 17. Packaging article comprising an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 16. 18. Cosmetic skin care and / or makeup process comprising at least one step of applying to at least a portion of the surface of the skin at least one layer of an emulsion according to any one of the claims. 1 to 16.