FR2924020A1 - Cosmetic/dermatological oil-in-water emulsion, useful for care and/or make-up of e.g. skin, comprises solid surfactant having e.g. ethoxylated fatty ethers and glycerol fatty ester and oil having lipophilic organic UV filter - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsion having oil globules whose average size is 10 nm, comprises at least one solid surfactant at a temperature of = 45[deg] C, comprising ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty ester, and/or glycerol fatty ester; and at least an oil comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, where the oil has molecular weight of greater than 400, and weight ratio of the amount of the oily phase on the amount of the surfactant is 2-10, in a medium. Independent claims are included for: (1) a cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical use comprising the emulsion, in a medium; and (2) the preparation of the emulsion comprising mixing an aqueous phase and oily phase comprising one or more lipophilic filter under strong agitation, at an ambient temperature of 10-80[deg] C, then performing a homogenization at a pressure of 6x 10 7>-18x 10 7>Pa.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion based on ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters and / or fatty esters of glycerol and lipophilic organic UV filters; Manufacturing process and uses The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsion, the oil globules of which have an average size of less than 100 nm and containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) a solid surfactant at a lower temperature or equal to 45 ° C, chosen from ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerol fatty esters or their mixtures and b) at least one oil having a molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol, the weight ratio of the amount of oily phase over the amount of surfactant ranging from 2 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.

The invention also relates to the process for preparing said emulsion and to its uses in cosmetics and dermatology.

It is known that light radiations with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis and that rays with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name UV- B, cause erythema and skin burns which can interfere with the development of a natural tan; this UV-B radiation must therefore be filtered.

It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause the skin to brown, are liable to induce an alteration of the latter, in particular in the case of a skin. sensitive or skin continuously exposed to sunlight. UV-A rays in particular cause a loss of elasticity in the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging. They promote the onset of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in certain subjects and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore desirable to filter UV-A radiation as well.

Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have been proposed to date.

Anti-sun compositions are quite often in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion (that is to say a cosmetically acceptable support consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase) which contains, at various concentrations, one or more conventional organic filters, lipophilic and / or hydrophilic, capable of selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation, these filters (and their quantities) being selected according to the desired sun protection factor, the sun protection factor (SPF) expressed mathematically as the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter over the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter.

Today, most solar products for daily photoprotection marketed are in the form of a whitish emulsion or a more or less translucent emulsified gel. Due to the large amount of filter to be introduced into the formulations, it is technically very difficult to provide thick transparent or translucent formulas with high protection indices which can be used in the context of daily photoprotection.

The only transparent formulas known to date are in the form of liquid or very lightly gelled lotions with a very high alcohol content, namely more than 50%, in order to guarantee a certain solubilization of the filters. Unfortunately, this type of strong alcoholic formulation cannot be used on all skin types in care.

Also, there remains the need for thickened transparent or translucent sun products having a high protection index without the drawbacks mentioned above.

In patent EP1016453, EP1010416, transparent oil-in-water emulsions having oil globules whose number-average size is less than 100 nm, containing a solid surfactant at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C, chosen are known. from ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerol fatty esters or mixtures thereof and at least one oil having a molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol and in that the weight ratio of the quantity of oily phase to the amount of surfactant ranges from 2 to 10.

During its extensive research, the Applicant has found unexpectedly that certain organic UV filters were incompatible with this type of emulsion, in particular water-soluble organic filters to the extent that the latter lead to very fluid sun products and / or to products of opaque appearance and of which the size of the oily globules is greater than 100 nm.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved by using one or more lipophilic organic UV filters in an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and having oil globules the number average size of which is less than 100 nm, containing a solid surfactant at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C, chosen from ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerol fatty esters or mixtures thereof and at least one oil having a molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol, and in which the weight ratio of the amount of oily phase to the amount of solid surfactant ranges from 2 to 10.

The emulsion obtained is transparent and stable on storage. It can contain large amounts of oil while retaining good transparency and having good cosmetic properties. The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsion having oil globules the number-average size of which is less than 100 nm, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one solid surfactant at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C, chosen from ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerol fatty esters or their mixtures and b) at least one oil having a molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol, and in in which the weight ratio of the amount of oily phase to the amount of solid surfactant ranges from 2 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.

In the remainder of the present description, the term lipophilic UV filter is understood to mean any UV radiation filtering agent capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a fatty phase of the emulsion or else of being solubilized in colloidal form (e.g. example in micellar form) in a fatty phase.

Among the lipophilic UV filters that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of (3, (3-diphenylacrylate; derivatives of benzotriazole; derivatives of benzalmalonate in particular those mentioned in patent US5,624,663; derivatives of benzimidazole; imidazolines; derivatives of paminobenzo'ic acid (PABA); benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications DE19755649, EP916335, EP1133980, EP1133981 and EP-A-1008586 and their mixtures.

As examples of lipophilic organic filters, mention may be made of those designated above under their INCI name:

Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by Symrise, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by Symrise, Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, sold under the name Ethoxyxinnamyl Methnamate: in particular, Ethoxycinnamyl Methnamate: PARSOL MCX by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by Symrise, Cinoxate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF, Benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF , Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra -Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate (UVINUL A + by BASF)

Benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK,

Triazine derivatives: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, 35 Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V 2,4 , 6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 40 diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine.

Benzotriazole derivatives: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by RHODIA CHIMIE,

45 Anthranilic derivatives Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Symrise,

Imidazoline derivatives: 50 Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Benzalmalonate derivatives: Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions such as polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name PARSOL SLXAL 5 PRODUCTS by DSM PRODUCTS

4,4-diarylbutadiene: 1,1-dicarboxy- (2'2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene

10 Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V; and their mixtures.

The more particularly preferred lipophilic organic filters are chosen from the following compounds: Homosalate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 20 Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Benzophenone-3, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate Methylbenzylidene camphor, 25 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5- triazine Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone 15 Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 35 1,1-dicarboxy- (2'2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol- 2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

And even more preferably from 40 Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl triazone, 45 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Drometrizole Trisiloxane and their mixtures.

The lipophilic filters in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular form of the invention, the emulsion will be devoid of or substantially devoid of water-soluble UV filter.

According to the invention, by devoid or substantially devoid of water-soluble UV filter as containing less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water-soluble filter by relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions according to the invention generally have a transparent to translucent appearance. Their transparency is measured by a turbidity ranging from 60 to 800 NTU and preferably from 70 to 500 NTU, turbidity measured at 24 hours with a portable turbidimeter HACH - Model 2100 P.

The emulsions according to the invention generally have a viscosity ranging from 0.5 Pa.s to 10 Pa.s, preferably from 1 Pa.s to 8 Pa.s and more preferably from 2 Pa.s to 6 Pa.s measured at l using a Rheomat RM 180 type rheometer; the measurements being carried out at 24 h at 25 ° C. for 10 minutes at a shear rate of 200 s-1 using mobiles 3 or 4.

The oil globules of the emulsions of the invention have a number-average size, less than 100 nm and preferably between 20 and 100 nm. The reduction in the size of the globules makes it possible to promote the penetration of the active agents into the surface layers of the skin (vehicle effect). The particle size of the oily globules is generally measured using a Brookhaven Instrument corp: 90 Plus Particle size analyzer.

The solid surfactant at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C., which can be used in the emulsion of the invention is chosen from ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerolated fatty esters or mixtures thereof.

The ethoxylated fatty ethers which are solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C., which can be used as surfactants in the emulsion according to the invention are ethers formed from 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and at least one d chain. fatty alcohol having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the ethers can in particular be chosen from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl. As examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of behenic alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20 , Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BBS, BB10, BB20, BB30 by the company Nikko, and stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 units of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: Steareth- 2), such as the product marketed under the name Brij 72 by the company Uniqema.

The ethoxylated fatty esters which are solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C, which can be used as surfactants in the emulsion according to the invention are esters formed from 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and at least one d chain. fatty acid having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the esters can in particular be chosen from the stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. As examples of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of the stearic acid ester comprising 8 units of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (Myrj 45V) (CTFA name PEG- 8 Stearate) by the company Uniqema as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 units of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-8 Behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse .

The fatty esters of glycerol which can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C. and can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain. linear saturated, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these glycerol fatty esters can be used in the emulsion of the invention.

These esters can in particular be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and their mixtures. Preferably, stearates and palmitates are used.

As examples of surfactant which can be used in the emulsion of the invention, mention may be made of decaglycerol monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl -10 Pentastearate) such as the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company Nikko, and diglycerol monostearate (CTFA name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate) such as as the product sold by the company Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.

The amount of solid surfactant in the emulsion of the invention can range, for example, from 0.2 to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The ratio by weight of the amount of the oily phase to the amount of surfactant ranges from 2 to 10 and, preferably, from 3 to 7. The term “amount of oily phase” is understood here to mean the total amount of the constituents of this phase without include the amount of surfactant.

The emulsion according to the invention contains at least one oil of molecular weight greater than 400. Oils of molecular weight greater than 400 can be chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils and oils. silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. As oils of this type, there may be mentioned, for example, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, avocado oil, jojoba oil.

In addition, the oily phase may optionally contain other oils and in particular oils having a molecular weight of less than 400. These oils are also chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils and oils. silicone oils. Mention may be made, for example, as oils of molecular weight less than 400, of isododecane, isohexadecane, volatile silicone oils, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and C11-C13 isoparaffin.

The oily phase may also contain fatty substances other than the oils indicated above, such as fatty alcohols such as stearyl, cetyl, behenic alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic, palmitic and behenic acids, fluorinated oils, waxes , gums and mixtures thereof.

The emulsions in accordance with the invention comprise an amount of oily phase preferably ranging from 2 to 40% and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsion of the invention also contains one or more ionic amphiphilic lipids. The ionic amphiphilic lipids which can be used in the emulsion of the invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by anionic amphiphilic lipids, cationic amphiphilic lipids and alkylsulphonic derivatives. The anionic amphiphilic lipids can be more particularly chosen from the group formed by: the alkali metal salts of dicetyl- and of dimyristylphosphate; - alkaline salts of cholesterol sulphate; - alkali salts of cholesterol phosphate; - lipoamino acids and their salts such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates such as the disodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid sold under the name Acylglutamate HS21 by the company AJINOMOTO; - sodium salts of phosphatidic acid; - phospholipids.

The alkylsulfonic derivatives can be more particularly chosen from the alkylsulfonic derivatives of formula (I): RùCH-CO-O- (CH2-CH2-CO) -CH3 SO3M (I) in which R represents an alkyl radical comprising from 16 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular the radicals C16H33 and C18H37 taken as a mixture or separately, and M is an alkali metal such as sodium.

The cationic amphiphilic lipids can be more particularly chosen from the group formed by quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts. The quaternary ammonium salts are for example: - those which have the following general formula (II): 15 35 45 + in which the radicals R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched , comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide, alkyl (C12-C22) amido (C2-C6) alkyl, alkyl (C12-C22) acetate, hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising approximately 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. As quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. , in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the company ISP. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for example, those of the following formula (III): 16 CH2-CH2-N (R8) -CO-R5 N r N <\ _ / R7 in which R5 represents a radical alkenyl or alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from fatty acids of tallow; R6 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R represents an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R8 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates. Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of fatty acids from tallow, R denotes a methyl radical, R8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is for example sold under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. R + - quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV): ++ 12 R9 ùNù (CH2) 3 Nù R14 R11 R13 Rio R 2X (IV) in which R9 denotes an aliphatic radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; Rio, R11, R12, R13, and R14 are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Such quaternary diammonium salts include in particular propanesulfdiammonium dichloride.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a lipoamino acid is used as ionic amphiphilic lipid.

The amphiphilic ionic lipids can be introduced into either phase of the emulsion. When they are present in the emulsion of the invention, they can be used in concentrations ranging preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.25 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The emulsions in accordance with the present invention may contain additives to improve the transparency of the formulation.

These additives are preferably chosen from the group formed by: - lower alcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and more particularly from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; - glycols such as glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols comprising from 4 to 16 and preferably from 8 to 12 units of ethylene oxide; - sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose.

These additives can be used as a mixture. When they are present in the emulsion of the invention, they can be used at concentrations preferably ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and better still from 5 to 20%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. The amount of alcohol (s) and / or sugar (s) preferably ranges from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion and the amount of glycol (s) preferably ranges from 5 to 15 0/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

In addition, the use of alcohols as defined above, at concentrations greater than or equal to 15% by weight, makes it possible to obtain emulsions without preservative.

The emulsions defined above can be used in any field where this type of composition is useful. They can in particular constitute compositions for topical use and in particular cosmetic or dermatological use.

Another subject of the invention therefore consists of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical use, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one emulsion as defined above.

According to the invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means any support compatible with human keratin materials comprising the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the lips, the nails and also with the mucous membranes.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain agents for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin (self-tanning agents), and more particularly dihydroxyacetone (DHA). They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the present invention can be provided in the form of a more or less creamy cream, a gel, a gel-cream and can also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic thickeners or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, humectants, antioxidants, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti-foam agents, perfumes, preservatives, lipophilic or hydrophilic active ingredients, colorants, polymers, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics and / or dermatology.

The fatty substances can consist of an oil or a wax or their mixtures. The term “oil” is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at room temperature. The term “wax” is understood to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.

Mention may be made, as oils, of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia, blackcurrant seed, jojoba); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Eldew SL-205 by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as C12-C15 alcohol benzoate sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226 by the company ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethysiloxanes or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate.50 As waxy compounds, mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, castor oil hydrogenated, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL.

Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. The latter can be chosen from glycols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols comprising from 4 to 16 and from preferably 8 to 12 ethylene oxide units.

As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as, for example, the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.

As lipophilic thickeners, mention may be made of synthetic polymers such as poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name INTELIMER IPA 13-1 and INTELIMER IPA 13-6 by the company AIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS or alternatively modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the names of Bentone or else dextrin derivatives such as dextrin palmitate Among the active agents, mention may be made of: - vitamins (A, C, E, K, PP, etc.) and their derivatives or precursors, alone or as mixtures, - anti-pollution agents and / or anti-radical agent; - depigmenting agents and / or pro-pigmenting agents; - anti-glycation agents; - soothing agents, - NO-synthase inhibitors; - agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; - agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts; - agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes; - muscle relaxants; - tensioning agents, - keratolytic agents, - desquamating agents; - moisturizing agents; - anti-inflammatory agents; - agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, - insect repellants - substance P or CRGP antagonists. - anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents - anti-wrinkle agents.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the emulsions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition (s).

A subject of the invention is also a process for preparing an emulsion as defined above, this process consisting in mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase comprising the lipophilic UV filter (s), with vigorous stirring, at a temperature ranging from from 10 to 80 ° C, then performing homogenization at a pressure preferably ranging from 6.10 'Pa to 18.10' Pa (high pressure homogenization). The shear preferably ranges from 2.106 s- 'to 5.108 s-1 and better still from 1.108 s-' to 3.108 s-1 (s-1 means second).

The emulsion of the invention can be used, for example, for caring for, treating and making up the skin, face, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or the scalp.

Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the emulsions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment, care and / or make-up of the skin, lips, eyes. nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and make-up products and more particularly sun protection products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as a care and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body. They can optionally be packaged as an aerosol and be in the form of a foam.

The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. The latter are described in US Patents 4,077,441 and US 4,850,517. The compositions packaged as an aerosol in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are in% by weight. Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex 3 (*) EX 4 (*) Ex5 Ingredients (INCI name) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 Isononyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4 , 00 4.00 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Isocetyl Stearate - - 3.00 - 2.00 Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil 0.50 0.50 0, 50 0.50 0.50 Cyclopentasiloxane 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dimethicone 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Butylene Glycol 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 Denatured 96 ° ethyl alcohol 5.35 5.35 5.35 5.35 5.35 Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Stearic Acid 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 PEG-8 Stearate 1.40 1.54 1.40 1.40 1.40 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate 2.15 2.37 2.15 2.15 2.15 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.00 - 7.00 7.00 - (Parsol MCX) Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic - - 2.00 - - Acid (Eusolex 232) Ethylhexyl Salicylate, 5.00 5.00 - 5.00 5.00 (Neo Heliopan OS) Terephthalylidene Dicamphor - 2.60 - Sulfonic Acid, (Mexoryl SX) Octocrylene (UVINUL N539) -7.00 - - 5 , 00 Drometrizole Trisiloxane 1.00 1.00 1.00 - - (Mexoryl XL) Butyl - - - - 3.00 Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) Perfume 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Triethanolamine qs qs qs qs qs Preservatives qs qs qs qs qs Water qsp qsp qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 100 100 VISCOSITY at 24h at 25 ° C 4.7 3.8 <0.5 <0.5 4.7 (Pa.s after 10 minutes at the Mobile 4) TURBIDITY 353 489 700> 1000 700 (NTU) GRANULOMETRY 80 77 74 120 96 (nm) (> 100) (*) outside the invention Procedure for the compositions:

The emulsions described according to the invention are produced using a valve homogenizer of the Soavi type under a pressure of 1000 bars. A pre-emulsion is produced at 40 ° C. with Moritz stirring after introduction of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase and after having previously melted the constituents of the aqueous and oily phases). The emulsion is then produced at 40 ° C. by passing the pre-emulsion through Soavi 1000 bar until a satisfactory particle size is obtained.

It is observed that - emulsion 3 comprising a water-soluble UV filter results in a very fluid product. - the emulsion 4 comprising a water-soluble UV filter results in a very fluid product 15 of opaque appearance (turbidity greater than 1000 NTU)

While the emulsions 1, 2 and 5 according to the invention based on lipophilic UV filters are transparent, thick enough for good application to the skin and transparent or translucent.

Claims (32)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsion having oil globules the number average size of which is less than 100 nm, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one solid surfactant at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C, chosen from ethoxylated fatty ethers, ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerol fatty esters or mixtures thereof and b) at least one oil having a molecular weight greater than 400, and in that the weight ratio of the amount oily phase on the amount of surfactant ranges from 2 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV filter. 2. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic UV filter (s) are chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; p, pdiphenylacrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; filter polymers and filter silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, 4,4-diarylbutadienes and mixtures thereof. 3. Emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that the lipophilic UV filter (s) are chosen from the following compounds: Homosalate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Benzophenone-3, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl ) -n-hexylbenzoate 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone 15 Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1-dicarboxy- (2'2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5 -1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof. 4. Emulsion according to claim 3, characterized in that the lipophilic UV filter (s) are chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine and their mixtures, Droxometrioxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Droxometrioxy. 5. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, where the lipophilic filter (s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. , and more preferably from 0.5 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is devoid of or substantially devoid of water-soluble UV filter. 15 7. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it has a turbidity ranging from 60 to 800 NTU and preferably from 70 to 500 NTU. 8. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the amount of surfactant ranges from 0.2 to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the l. 'emulsion. 9. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of oily phase to the amount of surfactant ranges from 3 to 7. 10. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil globules have an average size of between 20 and 100 nm. 30 11. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty ethers are chosen from ethers formed from 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and at least one fatty alcohol chain having 16 to 22 carbon atoms 35 12. Emulsion according to claim 11, wherein the ethoxylated fatty ethers are chosen from Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30 and Steareth-2. 13. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty esters are chosen from esters 40 formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty acid chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. 14. Emulsion according to claim 13, where the ethoxylated fatty esters are chosen from PEG-8 Stearate and PEG-8 Behenate. 15. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty esters of glycerol are chosen from esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. 10 25 45 50 16. Emulsion according to claim 15, wherein the fatty esters of glycerol are chosen from Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate. 17. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil of molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol is chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils and oils. silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. 18. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase also contains at least one oil having a molecular weight of less than 400 g / mol. 19. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of oily phase ranges from 2 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 20. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one ionic amphiphilic lipid chosen from the group formed by anionic amphiphilic lipids, cationic amphiphilic lipids and alkylsulphonic derivatives. 21. Emulsion according to claim 20, characterized in that the ionic amphiphilic lipids are chosen from the group formed by: the alkali metal salts of dicetyl- and of dimyristylphosphate; - alkaline salts of cholesterol sulphate; - alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate; - salts of lipoamino acids; - sodium salts of phosphatidic acid; - phospholipids; - alkylsulphonic derivatives of formula (I): Rù H-CO-O- (CH2-CH2-CO) -CH3 SO3M 35 in which R represents alkyl radicals 016-C22, taken as a mixture or separately and M is a metal alkaline; - quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts; and their mixtures. 40 22. Emulsion according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that the amount of ionic amphiphilic lipid (s) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 23. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains an additive making it possible to improve transparency, chosen from lower alcohols, glycols, sugars and their mixtures. (I) 24. Emulsion according to claim 23, characterized in that the additive is present in a concentration ranging from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 25. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a viscosity ranging from 0.5 Pa.s to 10 Pa.s, preferably from 1 Pa.s to 8 Pa.s and more preferably from 2 Pa.s to 6 Pa.s .. 26. Use of an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 25 for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment, care and / or make-up of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, 27. Use of an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 25, 15 for the manufacture of sun protection products. 28. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical use, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one emulsion as defined in claims 1 to 25. 20 29. Composition according to claim 28, additionally containing at least one agent for tanning and / or artificial browning of the skin (self-tanning agents), and more particularly dihydroxyacetone (DHA). 25 30. Composition according to any one of claims 28 and 29, further comprising at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, antioxidants, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, lipophilic or hydrophilic active agents, colorants, polymers, propellants. 31. Process for preparing an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 25, consisting in mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase containing the lipophilic filter (s) with vigorous stirring, at an ambient temperature ranging from 10 to 80. ° C, then performing homogenization at a pressure ranging from 6.10 'Pa to 18.10' Pa. 32. The method of claim 31, characterized in that the shear ranges from 2.106 s 'to 5.108 s-'. 40