FR3001140A1 - Composition, used for caring and/or making up keratin material e.g. hair and for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging, comprises oily- and aqueous phase, merocyanine compounds, hydrophilic organic UVB filter and organic UVA filter - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises, in a support, (a) at least one oily phase, (b) at least one aqueous phase, (c) at least one merocyanine compounds (I) and their E/E- or E/Z-geometrical isomer forms, (d) at least one hydrophilic organic UVB filter, and (e) at least one organic UVA filter different from the merocyanine compound. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises, in a support, (a) at least one oily phase, (b) at least one aqueous phase, (c) at least one merocyanine compounds of formula (I) and their E/E- or E/Z-geometrical isomer forms, (d) at least one hydrophilic organic UVB filter, and (e) at least one organic UVA filter different from the merocyanine compound. R : 1-22C-alkyl, 2-22C-alkenyl, 2-22C-alkynyl, 3-22C-cycloalkyl or 3-22C-cycloalkenyl (all interrupted by one or more O). [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one oily phase and b) at least one aqueous phase. and c) at least one merocyanine compound of formula (1) defined below and d) at least one hydrophilic organic UVB filter and e) at least one organic UVA filter different from said merocyanine compound. Another subject of the present invention is constituted by a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention such as defined above. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above . It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above. It is known that wavelength radiations of 280 nm to 400 nm allow tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as B interfere with the development of the natural tan. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin. It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods of time, under normal conditions can lead to degradation of collagen and elastin fibers which results in a modification of the micro-relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and irregular pigmentation (brown spots, heterogeneity of complexion).

Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotection product must protect both UVA and UVB radiation.

Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to remedy the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They usually contain organic UV filters and / or inorganic UV filters which function according to their own chemical nature and their own properties by absorption, reflection, or diffusion of UV radiation.

They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic filters and / or water-soluble UV filters associated with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Numerous cosmetic compositions intended to limit the darkening of the skin, to improve the color and the homogeneity of the complexion have been proposed to date. It is well known in the field of solar products that such compositions can be obtained using UV filters, and in particular UVB filters. Some compositions may also contain UVA filters. This filter system must cover the UVB protection in order to limit and control the neo-synthesis of melanin favoring the global pigmentation, but must also cover the UVA protection in order to limit and control the oxidation of the existing melanin leading to the darkening of the skin color. However, it is extremely difficult to find a composition which contains a particular combination of UV filters which would be especially suited to improving the quality of the skin both in terms of color and its mechanical elasticity properties. This improvement is particularly sought after on already pigmented skin so as not to increase the pigment load in melanin or the structure of melanin already present in the skin. In fact, the majority of organic systems filtering UVA and UVB radiation consist of aromatic compounds absorbing in the wavelength range of 280 to 370 nm. In addition to their filtering ability of solar radiation, the desired photo-protection compounds must also have good cosmetic properties, good solubility in the usual solvents and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, fats, as well as good photo-stability. They must also be colorless or at least present a color cosmetically acceptable to the consumer. One of the main disadvantages known to date of these solar compositions is that their UVA and UVB radiation filtering systems have insufficient efficiency against UV radiation and particularly against long UVA radiation with wavelengths above 370 nm, in the goal of controlling the photoinduced pigmentation and its evolution by a system filtering the UV on the whole spectrum UV.

Hydrophilic organic UVB filters are particularly advantageous insofar as they can be solubilized in the aqueous phase and thus limit the level of oils usually used in the solar compositions. Among the hydrophilic UVB filters commonly used, mention may be made of phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck. The UVA and UVB filter systems containing these hydrophilic organic UVB filters associated with commonly used organic UVA filters do not, however, make it possible to largely protect UV on the 280 to 400 nm range. US Pat. No. 4,195,999 describes the application WO2004 / 006878. document IP COM Journal 4 (4), 16 No. IPCOM000011179D published 04/03/2004, an interesting family of lipophilic merocyanine derivatives including the compound Octy1-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfony1-2,4 -pentadienoate corresponding to the compound MC172 of structure 0 LN which make it possible to filter the long UVA radiations with wavelengths beyond 370 nm. However, the UVA and UVB filtering systems consisting of liquid organic UVB filters, commonly used organic UVA filters and these merocyanine filters still do not make it possible to largely protect UV on the 280 to 400 nm range, in particular to obtain an observable absorbance up to at the wavelength 400 nm included. In order to search for other merocyanines to achieve this objective, unpublished PCT / EP2012 / 064195 have been proposed for merocyanines comprising polar groups consisting of hydroxyl functions and ethers which exhibit good efficacy. filtration of long UVA. In the course of its research, the applicant has noticed that some of these merocyanines associated with liquid UVB filters and UVA filters such as 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane do not allow the overall protection of UV radiation to be maintained. 280 to 400 nm in particular to obtain an observable absorbance up to and including the wavelength 400 nm and this way stable in time and at high temperatures, especially in hot climates. It therefore remains the need to find a new UVA and UVB filtering system based on hydrophilic organic UVB filter which is photostable and which guarantees a global protection of UV radiation of 280 to 400 nm including having a significant absorbance up to the length of 400 nm wave included and stably in time and at high temperatures.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved by using with a hydrophilic UVB filter, a particular merocyanine of formula (1) which will be defined later in detail and an organic UVA filter different from said merocyanine.

Thus, according to one of the objects of the present invention, it is now proposed a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier: a) at least one oily phase and b) at least one aqueous phase and c) at least a merocyanine compound of formula (1) defined below and d) at least one hydrophilic organic UVB filter and e) at least one organic UVA filter different from said merocyanine compound. Another object of the present invention is constituted by a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention. as defined above. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined previously. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above. Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows. By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips, mucous membranes. "Physiologically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition. By "prevention" or "prevention" is meant according to the invention the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of the aging of a material keratin. By "hydrophilic organic UVB filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm; said molecule being capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in an aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the range of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320nm.

By "between X and Y" is meant the range of values also including the X and Y terminals. MEROCYANINES According to the present invention, the merocyanine compounds according to the invention correspond to the following formula (1) as well as their geometrical shapes. E / E- or E / Z- isomers: (1) H wherein R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl, said groups being capable of being interrupted by one or more O. The merocyanine compounds of the invention may be in their E / E-, E / Z- isomeric geometrical forms.

The preferred compounds of formula (1) are those in which: R is a C 1 -C 22 alkyl which can be interrupted by one or more O.

Among the compounds of formula (1), use will be made more particularly of those selected from the following compounds and their geometric isomeric forms E / E-, E / Z-: 1 0 0 4 ol oo o ...--- .. N-ethyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate N,? - 2-butoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano (3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate 2 O 0? O HH 0 N le. 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate N 3 -methoxypropyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [( 3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate ## STR1 ## wherein N 2 -methylpropyl (2Z) ) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) -amino] c will be used. 2-en-1-ylideneethanoate (2) in its geometric E / Z configuration of the following structure: 15 H and / or in its geometric E / E configuration of the following structure: ## STR5 ## The merocyanines of formula (I) ) according to the invention, are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compounds of formula (1) can be prepared according to the protocols described in Pat. Appl. WO 2007/071582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9 (5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D under the title "Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-1-ylidene compounds" and in US-A-4,749,643 neck, 13, line 66 - col. 14, line 57 and the references cited in this regard.

HYDROPHILIC ORGANIC UVB FILTERS The hydrophilic organic UVB filters are chosen in particular from: acid 3- - hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid - hydrophilic benzylidene camphor compounds; the hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds; hydrophilic p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); hydrophilic salicylic compounds and mixtures thereof. As examples of hydrophilic organic UVB filters, mention may be made of those referred to below under their INCI name: para-aminobenzoic compounds: PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "UVINUL P 25®" by BASF. Salicylic Compounds: Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL®" by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS®" by Symrise, Benzylidene camphor compounds: Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL®" by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO®" by CHIMEX. Phenylbenzimidazole compounds: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232®" by Merck.

The Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid filter sold in particular under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232®" by MERCK will be used more particularly. The hydrophilic UVB filter may be present in the compositions according to the invention at contents ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ORGANIC UVA FILTERS The compositions according to the invention contain at least one organic UVA filter. They are generally chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UVA filters. By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering the UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in the form of micellar) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and triglycerides of fatty acids, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, performed at 70 ° C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the equilibrium solvent with an excess of suspended solid after return to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

Among the organic UVA filters of the invention, mention may be made of: - organic UVA filters of the type (A) capable of absorbing exclusively UV radiation between 320 and 400 nm, - organic UVA filters of the type (B) capable of simultaneously absorb UV radiation between 280 and 320 nm and those between 320 and 400 nm, and mixtures thereof. a) UVA organic filters of type (A) capable of absorbing UV from 320 to 400 nm The organic UVA filters of type (A) are preferably chosen from ibenzoylmethane compounds; aminosubstituted hydroxybenzophenone compounds as described in patent applications EP-A-1046391, EP1133980, DE10012408 and WO 2007071584; anthranilic compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in patents EP916335 and EP1133981; ; bisbenzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,26; and their blends and more particularly the following organic UVA filters: Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL 1789®" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc .; Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane. Amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone compounds: n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® by the company BASF. 1,1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [14244- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) obtainable, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular under aqueous dispersion form. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name "NEO 40 HELIOPAN MA C" by SYMRISE. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzylidene camphor compounds: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX®" by CHIMEX.

Bis-benzoazolyl compounds Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer., In the context of the invention, and according to a particular embodiment, the following organic filters of type (A) are implemented: - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid and their mixtures. b) Mixed type (B) organic UVA filters capable of absorbing both UVA and UVB Organic type UVA filters (B) are preferably chosen from benzophenone compounds; phenylbenzotriazole compounds; methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds as described in application EP0775698; the benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, Application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA , NY, US (September 20, 2004) including 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) -triazine and 2,4,6-tris (ter-phenyl) -triazine which is included in patent applications W006 These compounds are advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm) obtainable for example according to US Pat. the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion; and their mixtures. Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL400®" by BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul M 40®" by BASF; Benzophenone-4, sold by BASF under the name Uvinul MS 40®: Benzophenone-5; Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name "Helisorb11" by Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-5 24®" by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-9, sold by BASF under the name Uvinul DS 49®: Benzophenone-10; Benzophenone-11; Benzophenone-12. Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold in particular under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name "Meroxyl XL®" by the company Chimex. Compounds methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form in particular under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2r1-0O (C61-11005) xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C8H1005) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in GB-A-2 25 303 549 sold in particular under the trade name " TINOSORB M® by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0, 02 to 1 pm in pr presence of at least one mono- (C8-C2o) alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol 30 of at least 5 such that the aqueous dispersions described in W02009 / 063392 application. Bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine sold in particular under the trade name "TINOSORB S®" by BASF. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (10 (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold in particular under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V 40 Within the scope of the invention and according to one particular embodiment, the following organic screening agents (B) are used: - Drometrizole Trisiloxane - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, - Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, - 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) -triazine in micronized form, - and their mixtures. Organic UVA according to the invention are preferably present at levels ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. according to the invention comprise at least one oily phase The compositions of the invention contain less than 2% of e cyclohexasiloxane relative to the total weight of the composition to the extent that it may cause incompatibility problems with some oils usually used in the solar formulations. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" is intended to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. An oil suitable for the invention may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil. An oil suitable for the invention may advantageously be selected from mineral hydrocarbon oils, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one SiO.sub.4 group. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. A hydrocarbon oil which is suitable for the invention may, in addition, optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester or ether groups. and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups. The oily phase generally comprises, in addition to the at least one lipophilic UV filter, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil (s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10- 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm). of Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). .

Hydrocarbon oils As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triesters of glycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the acids of which are fatty acids may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR 'in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R + R 'is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohols benzoate, and the like. product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN @" or "Witconol TN @" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN ®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name "X- TEND 226® by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate as the prod sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates. (y) branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC @" by Cognis; (viii) fatty amides, such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto, and mixtures thereof, Among the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, it will be more particularly preferred glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohols benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, As volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes. C16 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, the oils sold under the names co Examples are Isopar or permetyl derivatives, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. b) Silicone oils The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom. Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group. Fluorinated oils Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof may also be used.

An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in oil, other fatty substances. Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid; and oleic acid; a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as waxes polyethylene, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - and their mixtures. According to one particular form of the invention, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. AQUEOUS PHASE The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase, especially in the case where it is desired to use a hydrophilic organic UVA filter.

The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other organic solvents that are soluble or miscible with water. An aqueous phase that is suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy waters, or water. floral. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water that are suitable for the invention include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerine, and mixtures thereof may be used more particularly. According to one particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIVES a) Additional UV Filters The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain one or more additional UV screening agents chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic, non-liquid or insoluble organic UVB filters and / or one or more inorganic UV filters. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, lipophilic or insoluble. By "organic UVB filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm. The complementary organic UV filters are especially chosen from p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); triazine compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds, imidazoline compounds; benzalmalonate compounds including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole compounds; benzoxazole compounds; the polymers and silicone filters and their mixtures. As examples of complementary organic UV filters, mention may be made of those designated below under their INCI name: para-aminobenzoic compounds: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507®" by ISP , Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "UVINUL P 25®" by BAS F, triazine compounds: Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T 150®" by BASF; Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVAS ORB HEB ®" by SIGMA 3V; 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine; 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis- (n-butyl 4'-amino benzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanyllpropyl) amin] -s-triazine. 2,4-bis- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanyllpropyl) amin] -s-triazine.

Benzylidene camphor compounds: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD®" by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300®" by 5 MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL®" by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO®" Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL 10 SW®" by CHIMEX, Imidazoline Compounds: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Benzalmalonate Compounds: Polyorganosiloxanes with benzalmalonate function such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL SLX®" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate The preferred additional organic screening agents are selected from: - ethylhexyl triazone; Diethylhexylbutamido triazone-2,4-bis (n-butyl-4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanylpropyl) amino] s-triazine and mixtures thereof. The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm and even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures. Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments 40 may be mentioned products sold companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK AND Degussa. The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "SUNVEIL®" from the company IKEDA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA of silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAC" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAC" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, - alumina such as products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B) ®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A) ®" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, 20 - alumina and stearate of aluminum such as "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" products from TAYCA, "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" products from the company UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQC" from the company TAYCA, - of alumina and lau aluminum spleen such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" from TAYCA, - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" from TAYCA, 30 zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" from the company Tayca, silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from the company TAYCA, 35-silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30- DS® "from the company TITAN KOGYO, - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product" UV-TITAN X 195® "from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products" TIPAQUE TTO-55 40 (S) ® "from ISHIHARA, or" UV TITAN M 262® "from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) ®" ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W® "from the company TAYCA. - TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805®" by the company Degussa Silices, - TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3O" by CARDRE, - the anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBICO" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.

It is also possible to mention TiO 2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may further comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRIPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may more particularly be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO 2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE by INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 O by the company CRODA.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "transparent titanium oxide PWO", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTRO", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITSO" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQO".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; those marketed under the name "NanoxO" by the company Elementis; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by Nanophase Technologies; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the company Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and the polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols with polycondensate of hydroxystearic acid). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may for example be those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ®", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®," NANOGARD WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220® "The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names" NANOGARD WCD 2008 ( FE 45B FN) ® "," NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®) "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345® "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL® ", or by BASF under the name" TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE " ® ".

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ® ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261® "sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211C)" sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred. The complementary UV filters according to the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 45% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 30%, by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition. b) Other Additives: The compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti-foam agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, actives, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of alcohols other than the C 1 -C 4 mono-alkanols as defined above and in particular short-chain polyols of C 2 -C 8, for example glycerine, diols such as caprylyl glycol, pentanediol-1 and the like. , 2, propanediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

As thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TR1® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark "Hostacerin AMPS °" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by the company SEPPIC, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and mixtures thereof. Examples include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more alkalinizing agents chosen from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.

In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 11 approximately, and even more particularly from 6 to 8.5.

Among the active ingredients for the care of keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes or the nails, mention may be made, for example: vitamins and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in mixtures, antioxidants; - anti-radical agents; anti-pollutants, self-tanning agents, anti-glycation agents; soothing agents, deodorant agents, essential oils, NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts; agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes; - muscle relaxants, - cooling agents, - tensing agents, - mattifying agents, - depigmenting agents - pro-pigmenting agents - keratolytic agents, - desquamating agents; moisturizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents; antimicrobial agents, slimming agents, agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells, insect repellents, P-substance antagonists or CRGPs. - anti-hair loss agents - anti-wrinkle agents, - anti-aging agents. The skilled person will choose the active agent (s) depending on the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged.

GALENIC FORMS The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel . They can also be in anhydrous form, such as in the form of an oil. The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray. In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and HHP type. In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low level of polymer (oil / polymer ratio> 25), it is possible to disperse in concentrated phase and then to dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase. It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800b), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes of up to 100 nm. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). As examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil We 09® by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters. Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugar ethers. As polyol alkyl esters, polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI. Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic emulsifying surfactants of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester, such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside, optionally in admixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example under the name form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.

In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetics, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips.

Another object of the present invention is constituted by the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, including skincare products, sunscreen products and make-up products. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a makeup product.

Another object of the present invention is constituted by a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material consisting in applying to the surface of said keratinous material at least one composition according to the invention as defined herein. -above.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray. The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.

The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closure element and possibly being unsealed; and ii) a make-up and / or care composition according to the invention disposed inside said compartment (s). The container may for example be in the form of a pot or a housing. The closure member may be in the form of a cover comprising a cover mounted displaceable by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing the one or more makeup compositions and / or care.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES A. Examples of preparation of UV absorbers Mérocvanines Example A1: Preparation of compound (1) (1) H 0 N 122.23 grams of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with dimethylsulfate or alternatively with diethylsulfate and treated with 75.45 grams of ethyl cyanoacetate in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used: Example Solvent Base Example A1.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo [5.4.0] undec-7-dimethylacetam ide ene) Example A1.2 triethylamine isopropanol Example A1.3 3-methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A1.4 3-methoxypropylamine tert-amylalcohol Example A1.5 3-methoxypropylamine toluene Example A1.6 3-methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A1.7 3-methoxypropylamine without solvent Example A1.8 N-morpholine isopropanol The completion of the Alkylation reaction could be followed for example by methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC. 162.30 grams of compound (14) are obtained as a brown oil. After crystallization, the product was obtained as yellowish crystals.

Melting point: 92.7 ° C. Example A2: Preparation of the compound (2) (2) H ON 148.4 grams of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with dimethylsulfate or alternatively with diethylsulfate and treated with 130.00 grams of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used: Example Solvent Base Example A2.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo [5.4.0] undet dimethylacetamide 7-ene) Example A2.2 triethylamine isopropanol Example A2.3 3-methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A2.4 N-methylmorpholine tert-amylalcohol Example A2.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A2.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A2.7 3-methoxypropylamine Without solvent Example A3 (except invention): Preparation of compound (2Z) 2-cyano-N- (3-methoxy-propyl) -2- {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) -aminocyclohex-2-en-1-yl) -lindelethanamide described in PCT / EP2012 / 064195, unpublished H ON 101.00 grams of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with dimethylsulfate or alternatively with diethylsulfate and treated with 86.00 grams of 2-cyano-N- (3-methoxy) -propyl) -acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used: Example Solvent base Example A3.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo [5.4.0] undec-7-dimethylacetam ide en) Example A3.2 triethylamine isopropanol Example A3.3 3-methoxypropylamine Example A3.4 3-methoxypropylamine toluene Example A3.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A3.7 3-methoxypropylamine without solvent The crude product (2Z) -2-cyano-N- ( 3-methoxy-propyl) -2- {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidenelethanamide was obtained as a dark brown oil. After chromatography on a column of silica gel (eluent: toluene / methanol 99/1), 81.8 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 84.7-85.3 ° C. B. Examples of Formulations 1-4 The 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) -amino] -cyclohex-2-en-1-ylideneethanoate (2) compound of the invention was compared Relative to: (2Z) -2-cyano-N- (3-methoxy-propyl) -2- {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidenelethanamide compound Example A3 (except invention) to the compound octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate (except invention) The following formulas 1 to 4 were prepared; they have been constructed so that the sum of the oil and UV-soluble filter levels remains constant. The filter rate is adjusted to ensure the same level of UVB filtration and thus the same SPF in vitro, as well as the same absorbance profile between 290 and 340nm. For each of the formulas, the in vitro SPF, the UVApp0 index in vitro and the absorbance after 24 hours at room temperature were measured.

Phase Ingredients Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 (Invention) (out of (out of (invention) invention) invention A Water QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 Glycerin 6 6 6 6 Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0,1 Triethanolamine 3,15 3,15 3,15 3,15 Phenylbenzimidazole 4 4 4 4 Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232®) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Amphisol K®) 1 1 1 1 B 2-Ethylphenyl benzoate (X- Tend 226®) 26 257 255 253 Butyl 4 3.5 3.5 3.5 Methoxydibenzoylmethane (PARSOL 1789®) Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate - 0.8 - - (2Z) -2-Cyano-N- (3-methoxypropyl) -2- {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohexyl-2-en-1- (1-ylidenelethanamido) Compound (2) - - - 1.2 Stearic Acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165®) Dimethicone 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 Preservatives 1.28 1.28 1.28 1.28 C Isohexadecane 2 2 2 2 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Xanthan gum Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TRI ()) D Triethanolamine 0.25 0.2 5 0.25 0.25 E Alcohol 2 2 2 2 in vitro SPF 5.2 ± 0.6 13.9 ± 2.8 4.3 ± 0.7 5.4 ± 0.5 UVA ppD in vitro 13, 9 ± 2.8 14.7 ± 4.2 15.4 ± 4.1 21.3 ± 3.2 Method of preparation of the emulsions: The aqueous A and oily B phases were prepared by mixing the raw materials with stirring mechanical at 80 ° C. Once aqueous A and oily B solutions were macroscopically homogeneous, the emulsion was prepared by introducing phase B into phase A with stirring using a rotor-stator homogenizer under one speed. stirring of 4500 RPM for 20 minutes. Still under stirring, the phases C and D were then successively added. The emulsion was finally cooled to room temperature before adding phase E. The final emulsion was characterized by drops of size between 1 μm and 20 μm. Protocol for In Vitro Evaluation of Filter Efficiency The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined according to the "in vitro" method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were carried out using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. The value "In Vitro Protection Factor (SPF)" is extracted. Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm 2. The measurements of the UVAppp index in vitro were made under the same conditions using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. The value "UV-Appo Index (Action Spectrum Persistent Pigment Darkening)" is extracted. Each composition was applied to a rough PMMA plate, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm 2.

Protocol for evaluating absorbance spectra of formulas The absorbance spectra of the formulas were extracted from the mAF data as a function of the wavelength generated during the measurement of in vitro SPF and the UV-Appo index. in vitro. The mAF values are then converted to Absorbance according to: Abs = log (mAF). Absorbance profiles of the formulas measured 24 hours after formulation Absorbance Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 (invention) (excluding (excluding (except invention) invention) invention) Absorbance at 290 nm (t24h) 0.70 ± 0.06 0, 64 ± 0.09 0.61 ± 0.08 0.73 ± 0.04 Absorbance at 320 nm (t24h) 0.86 ± 0.06 0.78 ± 0.17 0.77 ± 0.10 0.88 ± 0.05 Absorbance at 400 nm (t24h) 0.08 ± 0.01 0.15 ± 0.03 0.44 ± 0.05 0.65 ± 0.0325 Conclusions UVA-ppD values in vitro and in vitro Absorbance at 400 nm measured 24 hours after formulation shows that for the same SPF in vitro and a similar absorbance profile in the UVB (290 to 320 nm), the combination Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Formula 1) is significantly less protecting the combination Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane / Merocynanine of the invention (Formula 4).

The combination Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Compound 2 of the invention (Formula 4) is distinguished from the combinations Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Octy1-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4 -pentadienoate (Formula 2) and Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / (2Z) -2-cyano-N- (3-methoxypropyl) -2- {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) aminomethyl] cyclohexyl- 2-en-1-ylidenel-ethanamide (Formula 3) by absorbance at 400 nm measured 24h after formulation significantly higher for comparable in vitro SPF and UVA-ppp.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one oily phase and b) at least one aqueous phase and c) at least one merocyanine compound corresponding to the following formula (1) and its isomeric geometric shapes E / E- or E / Z-: wherein R is a C 1 -C 22 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 22 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 22 alkinyl group or a C 3 -C 22 cycloalkyl group; or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl, said groups being interruptable by one or more O and d) at least one hydrophilic organic UVB filter and e) at least one organic UVA filter different from said merocyanine compound. 20 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the merocyanine compound (s) of formula (I) are chosen from those in which R is a C 1 -C 22 alkyl which may be interrupted by one or more O. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the merocyanine compound (s) of formula (1) are chosen from the following compounds and their isomeric geometrical forms E / E-, E / Z-: 1 0 0 4 H ol ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR5 ## 1H-N-butoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano (3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate-5-ylidene} ethanoate N- / 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate N 3 -methoxypropyl (2Z) -cyano 3- [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate, 6H-OH-2-methylpropyl (2Z) -cyano (3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2 N-α-1-ylidene} ethoxypropyl (2Z) -cyano [3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate The composition according to claim 3, wherein the merocyanine compound is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) -amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate (2) in its geometric configuration E / Z of following structure; H N and / or in its geometric configuration E / E of following structure: oJ H 0 N O 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the merocyanine compound (s) of formula (1) are present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the one or more hydrophilic UVB filters are chosen from: - the hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid; hydrophilic benzylidene camphor compounds; - hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds - hydrophilic p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); hydrophilic salicylic compounds - their mixtures. 7. Composition according to Claim 6, in which the hydrophilic UVB screening agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds and more particularly the compound Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophilic organic UVB filter (s) are present at contents ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the organic UVA filter (s) are chosen from: - type UVA organic filters (A) capable of absorbing exclusively UV radiation between 320 and 400 nm, organic type UVA filters (B) capable of simultaneously absorbing UV radiation between 280 and 320 nm and those between 320 and 400 nm, and mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the organic UVA filters of the type (A) are chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds,; aminosubstituted hydroxybenzophenone compounds; anthranilic compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; 4,4-diarylbutadene compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; and their mixtures. 11. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the organic UVA filters of the type (A) are chosen from the following compounds - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid and their mixtures. 12. The composition of claim 9, wherein the type UVA organic filters (B) are selected from benzophenone compounds; phenylbenzotriazole compounds; methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds; bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds; benzoxazole compounds; symmetrical triazines substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups; and their mixtures. 13. A composition according to claim 12, wherein the organic UVA filters of the type (B) are chosen from the following compounds: - Drometrizole Trisiloxane - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles; - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; Benzophenone-3; 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) -triazine in micronized form; - and their mixtures. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the organic UVA filter (s) are present at contents ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 14. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising applying to the surface of the skin at least one composition as defined in one of the following: any of the preceding claims. 15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of keratin materials comprising at least the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.