FR2925362A1 - Composition in water-in-oil emulsion form, useful e.g. for non-therapeutic care, make-up/make-up removal of e.g. skin comprises continuous oily phase having fatty acid ester and polyol, aqueous phase and modified hydrophobic polysaccharide - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprises: (a) continuous oily phase containing at least one fatty acid ester and polyol; (b) an aqueous phase; and (c) at least one modified hydrophobic polysaccharide. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

Water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) stabilized by a lipophilic emulsifier and a hydrophobic modified polysaccharide

The field of the invention relates to stable compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are natural.

According to the invention, the term "natural compositions" is intended to mean compositions comprising predominantly or exclusively ingredients of natural origin, as opposed to ingredients of petrochemical or synthetic origin.

The invention relates in particular to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a) an oily continuous phase containing at least one fatty acid and polyol ester, b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, and c) at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide.

In particular, the fatty acid and polyol ester is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate.

The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being very stable over time and sensory and pleasant, even in the absence of fatty substances of a petrochemical and / or synthetic nature (silicones, volatile oils of synthetic origin such as branched hydrocarbons and cyclic silicones).

This composition can be used in particular in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields and is in particular a skincare and / or make-up and / or make-up product for the skin and / or its integuments, bringing a soft touch during the application. on the skin and / or its integuments.

By 'skin' is also meant the scalp and semi-mucous membranes (lips). By 'integuments', we mean hair, eyelashes and nails. More and more compositions are being sought, in particular cosmetics based on ingredients of natural origin. However, the production of 'all natural' compositions, that is to say in particular those free of ingredients of synthetic origin, encounters problems of formulation, both in terms of long-term stability and in terms of properties. sensory to the application. And this is even more critical for water-in-oil emulsions, known to be more difficult to stabilize and generally having a greasy, heavy and sticky feel to the application.

Moreover, water-in-oil emulsions free of synthetic fatty substances (such as cyclic silicones or branched hydrocarbons), are generally soapy to the application, heavy and rough on the skin.

There therefore remains the need for compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, in particular natural, which are stable over time and provide pleasant cosmetic properties such as a certain lightness and softness to the application without soaping effects (film white to the application on the skin).

Stability in time is understood here to mean the ability to render a water-based emulsion homogeneous and regular, and which does not deheat (separation of the aqueous phase and the oily phase) nor does it release oil, at least for a period of time. two months at 45 ° C. 20

The Applicant has surprisingly shown that the use of a fatty acid ester and polyol, in particular the use of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate, in combination with at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide, made it possible to have long-term stable W / O emulsions, furthermore having good sensory properties, in particular: poorly whitening on application, even in the absence of silicones or other volatile oils of synthetic origin; leaving the skin soft in the end. 30

The compositions according to the invention are particularly interesting in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, in particular in the field of skin care, photoprotection, make-up, and make-up removal. The invention particularly relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) containing: a) an oily continuous phase containing at least one fatty acid and polyol ester; b) an aqueous phase, and c) at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide.

The aqueous phase is dispersed with stirring in the oily phase. Generally, the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is in the aqueous phase. In certain special cases (eg hydrophobic modified inulin), it is also possible to disperse the hydrophobic polysaccharide in the oily phase before emulsification.

Oily phase The fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents from 5 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 30%, and still more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Esters of fatty acids and polyols

The term "fatty acid esters of polyols" according to the invention is understood to mean fatty acid esters (or fatty acid polymers) and of polyol in which the fatty acid comprises a C 6 -C 22 alkyl chain, preferably C16-C20, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid can also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer 12-hydroxystearic acid).

In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of C16-C20 linear or branched chain fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid polymer is polyl 2-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, polyl 2-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof are used. By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6. According to one particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester and polyol contains 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- , oligoglycerols). Even more preferentially, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles (or 15 units) of poltol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol.

According to a preferred embodiment, said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (C1o), and polyol.

By way of examples of fatty acid and polyol esters which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid and polyol esters and their mixtures, in particular isostearic acid esters and glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134 by the company Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI denomination by Cognis; the polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA by the Nihon emulsion company; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1-IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Unigema, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred fatty acid and polyglycerol esters according to the invention, mention may be made especially of: polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134 by Goldschmidt, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name Isolan GPS by Goldschmidt, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Unigema, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and polyol ester according to the invention is an ester of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, still more preferably from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol (preferably 4 units); (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid). Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20 and 40%, preferably between 40 and 70%.

Such esters of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol are described in application US2005 / 0031580.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is an ester of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol; (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty acid and polyol ester is an ester of polyhydroxystearic acid and dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 polyglycerol units. (preferably 4 units); (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid) and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms ( preferably isostearic acid).

As a preferred example of a polyhydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol acid ester, there may be mentioned 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate of formula wherein PHS denotes polyhydroxystearic acid and IS denotes isostearic acid.

Such a compound is prepared according to the application US2005 / 0031580 and sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by GOLDSCHMIDT (DEGUSSA).

Even more preferably, in the composition of the invention, the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt will be used.

The content of fatty acid and polyol ester in the composition according to the invention will be adapted to the aqueous and oily phase contents of the composition according to the invention. This fatty acid and polyol ester content will, in particular, be from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% and even more preferentially. from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

The fatty phase consists of the oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. There may be mentioned in particular oils, fatty esters, waxes and butters, which may respectively be of natural origin (animal, vegetable) or synthetic. Preferably, it will be possible to use naturally occurring fatty substances such as vegetable oils, vegetable fatty esters and vegetable waxes or butters.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty phase contains at least one hydrocarbon oil of natural origin and / or at least one wax of natural origin.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). In addition, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means a non-silicone oil, that is to say any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. .

Hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or rapeseed oils, of soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado, argan, sweet almond, almond apricots, rice bran, camellia, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

Preferably, use will be made of jojoba oil, apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof.

As "fatty esters of plant or synthetic origin", there may be mentioned in particular esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the remainder of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, myristate d isopropyl, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearyl; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; lipophilic derivatives of amino acids, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Isopropyl Lauroyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Eldew SL 205 by the company Ajinomoto.

Preferably, the esters and ethers whose fatty chains are of plant origin, for example dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) and dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) from the Cognis Company, will be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C. and capable of up to 200 ° C, a hardness of preferably greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To measure the hardness, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the hardness measurement. The value of the hardness is the measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

The wax used in the composition of the invention may especially be chosen from waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; waxes of plant origin such as Candelilla, Ouricurry, Carnauba, Japan, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, rice bran wax; microcrystalline waxes, such as microcrystalline wax (C20-C60) sold under the name Microwax HW by the company Paramelt; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, cottonseed oil; waxes consisting of esters of olive oils and fatty alcohols (such as the Phytowax range from Sophim), butters of plant origin such as palm butter, cocoa butter and shea butter ; Shellac wax, montan wax, citrus waxes such as orange or grapefruit wax, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the wax is chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, butters of vegetable origin, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof.

Still more preferably, beeswax is used.

The amount of wax (es) may range, for example, from 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight and better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty substances of petrochemical origin and / or of synthetic origin (such as silicones or volatile oils of synthetic origin).

By "free of petrochemical or synthetic fats" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of petrochemical or synthetic fats with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 0, 5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1%, and even more preferably no fatty substance of petrochemical or synthetic origin. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of silicones.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of volatile oils of synthetic origin. 30

AQUEOUS PHASE The aqueous phase generally represents from 50 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 70% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase generally contains water and hydrophilic adjuvants, including monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, and polyols such as glycerine and propane diol, and glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The water-miscible polyol at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) may in particular be chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; ; and their mixtures.

The water-miscible polyol at room temperature may be in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight. . The composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, especially in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the and preferably from 1% to 70% by weight.

Hydrophobic Modified Polysaccharide The "hydrophobic modified polysaccharide" according to the invention in particular means a polysaccharide modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains on the hydrophilic backbone of said polysaccharide.

By "polysaccharide" according to the invention is meant especially inulins celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), starches, agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, inulins, celluloses and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, will be used.

The invention therefore relates to a composition in which the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is chosen from inulins, celluloses and their derivatives, starches, agars and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobic modified inulins According to a first embodiment, the polysaccharide used in the present invention is chosen from fructans, in particular inulins. Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 13-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulin. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by 13-2-6 bonds. These products are levanes. The third group corresponds to mixed frucans, that is to say having sequences 13-2-6 and 13-2-1. These are essentially branched fructans than graminans.

The fructans used in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.

The polysaccharides, in particular inulins, used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobic modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.

The hydrophobic chains capable of being grafted onto the main chain of the fructan can in particular be linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulphonamide functions, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.

The invention therefore relates to a composition, in which the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is an inulin modified with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrophobic chains having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups. ; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide functional groups, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.

In particular, inulin is obtained from chicory.

In particular, the polysaccharide, especially inulin, has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups. In particular, by way of illustration and not limitation, hydrophobic modified inulins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by the company Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard; and inulin lauryl carbamate such as that sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company Orafti.

In particular, the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is a lauryl carbamate grafted inulin, in particular derived from the reaction of lauryl isocyanate with an inulin, in particular derived from chicory. By way of example of these compounds, mention may be made especially of the product sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company ORAFTI.

Hydrophobic modified cellulose derivatives According to another embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is a hydroxyalkyl cellulose (C1-C3) modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular hydrophobic groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon. The hydrophobic modified cellulose derivatives according to the invention are substituted with one or more linear, branched or cyclic C8-C30 hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent or substituents used are C8-C30, preferably C10-C22, alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent (s) according to the present invention are saturated C10-C22, preferably C16-C20 alkyl chains, such as cetyl (C16), stearyl (C18) and behenyl (C20) groups. preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent (s) according to the present invention are cetyl groups. These hydrophobic-substituted cellulose derivatives (s) according to the invention have a viscosity preferably of between 100 and 100 000 mPa. s, and preferably between 200 and 20,000 mPa.s, measured at 25 ° C in a solution at 1% by weight of polymer in water, this viscosity being determined in a conventional manner using a viscometer of type Brookfield LVT at 6 revolutions per minute with the mobile No. 3. Among the hydrophobic-substituted cellulose derivatives which may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made, preferably, of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI: Cetyl). Hydroxyethylcellulose) by Aqualon / Hercules.

The hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Polysaccharides The composition according to the invention may also comprise other additional polysaccharides, such as gums of vegetable or biotechnological origin.

Among the vegetable gums, mention may be made of guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, locust bean gum; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN, locust bean gum marketed under the name Genu gum type RL200 by the company CP Kelko.

As gums of biotechnological origin, mention may be made of xanthan gum, such as Rhodia's Rodhicare XC, and xanthan gums modified with glucose / mannose / glucuronic acid groups, such as Keltrol T from CP Kelko and Rhodicare CFT. Rhodia or Nisshin Oil's Nomcort Z.

As a preferred gum, there may be mentioned xanthan gum.

The content of additional polysaccharides may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, it will be cosmetic compositions.

The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium. By physiologically acceptable medium is meant in the present invention, a nontoxic medium, compatible with the skin (including the interior of the eyelids), the mucous membranes, the hair or the lips of human beings. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and feel, and intended for topical application.

The composition according to the invention finds its application in a large number of treatments including cosmetic skin, including scalp, hair, nails, and / or mucous membranes, especially for care, cleaning and / or makeup and / or sun protection of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

Also, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, for the treatment, the protection, the care, the cleansing and / or the cleansing of the skin, lips and / or hair , and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, including the scalp, the hair, and / or the lips, characterized by the fact that it is applied to the skin, the hair and / or the skin. lips, a composition as defined above.

In known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers, pigments, UV filters, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent.

The ingredients and / or active ingredients will be present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% and even more preferentially from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

These ingredients and / or active ingredients and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

Advantageously, ingredients and / or actives of natural origin will be used.

As fillers that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of powders of natural organic materials such as maize, wheat or rice starches; or natural mineral materials such as silica, talc, clays such as kaolin, montmorillonite, saponites, laponites and illites. The amount of fillers is preferably less than or equal to 8% of the total weight of the composition, and better still less than or equal to 5% of the total weight of the composition. When present, these fillers may be in amounts ranging for example from 0.05 to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents; anti-free radical agents; keratolytic and desquamating agents; vitamins; anti-elastase and anticollagenase agents; trace elements; seaweed or plankton extracts; enzymes and co-enzymes; flavonoids and isoflavonoids; ceramides; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; and myorelaxant or dermo-decontracting agents; and their mixtures.

The U.V. filters can be organic or inorganic. Examples of organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B range and can be added to the composition of the invention include, for example, anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; 13,13'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application D E 19855649.

More particularly, the following UV filters, referred to below under their INCI name:

Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA marketed in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by the company ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by the BASF company.

Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate marketed under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by the company Haarmann and Reimer, Dipropylene glycol salicylate marketed under the name DIPSAL by the company SCHER, TEA Salicylate, marketed under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS name by the company Haarmann and Reimer, Derivatives of dibenzovlmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane marketed in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by the company Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl ibenzoylmethane, 10 cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by the company Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy Cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy Cinnamate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by Haarmann and Reimer, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate

Derivatives of I3,13'-diphenylacrylate Octocrylene marketed in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by the company BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by the company BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by the company BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by the company BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by the company BASF company, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, 5-Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 marketed under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, Benzophenone-12.

Derivative of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by the company Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor marketed under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by Merck, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by the company Chimex, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by the company Chimex, -Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by the company Chimex, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by Chimex.

Derivatives of phenylbenzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid marketed in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck, Benzimidazilate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by the company Haarmann and REIMER,

Triazine derivatives: Anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by the company Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone marketed in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by the company BASF, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone marketed under the trade name UVASORB HEB by the company SIGMA 3V.

Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by the company Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100 by the company Fairmount Chemical or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the name trade name TINOSORB M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

Anthranilic derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate marketed under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by the company Haarmann and Reimer.

Imidazoline Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Benzalmalonate Derivatives: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions marketed under the trade name PARSOL SLX by the company Hoffmann La Roche

and mixtures of these filters.

The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Benzimidazilate, Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl-Butamido Triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl-Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole-Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of organic UV filters in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition.

As mineral filters which can be added in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium, zinc or cerium. , and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

Preferably, titanium dioxide will be used. The UV filters may be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples of active agents include, for example, (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); hyaluronic acid; lanolin; urea, mixtures containing urea, such as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), and urea derivatives such as N- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea (Hydrovance from National Starch); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine); α-hydroxy acids, especially acids derived from fruits, such as glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric and mandelic acids, their derivatives and mixtures thereof; 13-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid or 5-nodecanoyl salicylic acid; α-ketoacids such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives such as its salts such as sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate; its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or its sugars such as glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; 13-keto acids; retinoids such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives, as well as the retinoids described in FR-A-2,570,377, EP-A-199,636, EP-A- 325,540, EP-A-402,072, EP-A-325,540, EP-A-402,072; carotenoids such as lycopene; ceramides 2115; sapogenins and plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Wild Yam; resveratrol; pseudodipeptides such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid; vitamins, for example, in addition to the vitamins A and C indicated above, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP or niacinamide), vitamin B5 (panthenol in its various forms: D-panthenol, DL panthenol), vitamin D, vitamin F (a mixture of essential fatty acids), derivatives, precursors and analogues of these vitamins; soy extracts, particularly soy protein hydrolysates or isoflavone-rich soy extracts; trace elements such as copper, zinc, selenium, iron, magnesium, manganese; algae extracts such as the product marketed under the name STIMODERM by the company CLR; plankton extracts such as plankton in aqueous dispersion (CTFA name: Vitreoscilla Ferment) marketed under the name MEXORYL SAH by the company Chimex; enzymes; coenzymes such as ubiquinone or coenzyme Q10 which belongs to the family of alkaline chain benzoquinones, coenzyme R which is biotin (or vitamin H); yeast extracts such as the extract of s.cerevisiae sold under the name CYTOVITIN LS 9388 by the Serobiobiology laboratories; adenosine; plant extracts such as licorice extract; soothing agents such as bisabolol and soothing plant extracts such as rose extract (rosa gallica) and mint extracts (mentha piperita); and any suitable active for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds its application in a large number of cosmetic skin treatments, including the scalp and the mucous membranes (lips), in particular for the care and / or the treatment of dry and / or sensitive skin .

According to one particular embodiment, the composition finds an application in the treatment of the signs of aging of the skin, in particular for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for reducing wrinkles, fine lines and skin spots, to smooth the skin, to unify the complexion of the skin.

Also, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, for the care of the skin, in particular for the treatment of the signs of aging of the skin.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of care, make-up or make-up of the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, the hair and / or the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

In the field of care they are particularly suitable for treating the signs of aging such as wrinkles; as a care for treating dry and / or sensitive skin.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process to reduce visible or tactile irregularities on the surface of the skin, in particular to reduce wrinkles and / or skin spots and / or to smooth and / or firm the skin and / or to unify the complexion, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition as defined above.

The invention also relates to the use of the combination according to the invention of a fatty acid ester and of polyol and of at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide, for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition intended to treat the skin disorders.

The following examples of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The compounds are indicated in chemical name or INCI name. Quantities are given in% by weight unless otherwise stated.

Example 1 Comparative Stability Examples

Examples B and C are made according to the invention. Example A is Comparative Example.35 Ex Ex Ex B Ex C Preservative 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycerin 3 3 3 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sulphate Phase 1.5 Ammonium magnesium Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Cetyl hydroxy-ethyl 1 cellulose (Polysurf 67 0.9 from AQUALON) Inulin lauryl carbamate (Inutec SPI from ORAFTI) Phase Polyglyceryl-4 3 3 3 oily diisostearate polyhydroxystearate 0.1 0.1 0.1 (Isolan GPS from GOLDSCHMIDT) Hydrogenated castor oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 Ciremicrocrystalline Diethylhexyl carbonate 9.8 9.8 9.8 Ethylhexyl palmitate 11 11 11 Results Unstable Stable Stable Use: preparation of the aqueous phase by dispersing the constituents in water with stirring at 80 ° C. Preparation of the oily phase by mixing the components at 70-80 ° C.

Dispersion emulsion of the aqueous phase in the hot oil phase (70-80 ° C.) while stirring with a Moritz type turbine.

White and shiny creams are obtained. Stability: The emulsion according to Example A is centrifuged during the centrifugation and over time: the phase shift is unacceptable after 2 months at 37 ° C and 45 ° C and also during thermal cycles -20 ° / + 20 ° vs. Emulsions B and C, on the other hand, are stable under the same conditions. Sensory properties: products B and C are more creamy, and the touch is milder compared to product A.

In the case of Test C we also have a greater sense of freshness compared to Test A.

Example 2: Formulation Examples Soothing Cream 0/0 Preservative 0.2 Glycerin 5 Phase Magnesium Sulphate 1.5 A. Hydroxyethylcellulose (Polysurf 67 from 1 Aqualon Company) Water Qsp100 Phase Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate 3 Polyhydroxystearate (Isolan GPS Oily Company Goldschmidt) Dicaprylyl ether 8 Dicaprylyl carbonate 6 10 Softening Cream 0/0 Preservative 0.2 Glycerin 5 Phase Magnesium Sulphate 1.5 A.eux Water Qsp 100 Phase Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate 3 Polyhydroxystearate (Isolan GPS Oily Company Goldschmidt) Dicaprylyl Ether 9 Dicaprylyl carbonate 4.5 Beeswax 0.2 Inulyn lauryl carbamate (Inutec SPI) 0.55 Procedure Emulsion by slow dispersion of the aqueous phase in the oily phase at 70 ° C. Creamy, rich creams are obtained on application leaving the skin soft, smooth and comfortable.

Claims (23)

A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising: a. an oily continuous phase containing at least one fatty acid ester of polyol; b. an aqueous phase, and c. at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyol is a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol fatty acid ester is an ester of polyhydroxystearic acid and dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol; (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. 4. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyol is 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate of formula wherein PHS is polyhydroxystearic acid and IS is isostearic acid. 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid ester of polyol is present in the composition at a level of from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5%, and still more preferably from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is chosen from inulins, celluloses and their derivatives, starches, agars and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is an inulin modified with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrophobic chains having 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkylene groups. ; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulphonamide functions, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene. The composition of claim 6 or 7, wherein the inulin is obtained from chicory. 9. Composition according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups. 10. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is a hydroxyalkyl cellulose (C1-C3) modified with hydrophobic chains C8-C30. 25 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains are saturated alkyl chains C10-C22, preferably C16-C20i such as cetyl groups (C16), stearyl (C18) and behenyl (C20). 30 12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the hydrophobic chain is a cetyl group. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 15%. % by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase represents from 5 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 30%, and even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of oils and / or fats of synthetic origin. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of silicones. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of volatile oils of synthetic origin. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous phase represents from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 20 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers, pigments, UV filters. odor absorbers and dyestuffs. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents; anti-free radical agents; keratolytic and desquamating agents; vitamins; anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents; trace elements; seaweed or plankton extracts; enzymes and co-enzymes; flavonoids and isoflavonoids; ceramides; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; and myorelaxant or dermodecontracting agents; and their mixtures. 21. Non-therapeutic method for the care, make-up or removal of make-up of the skin, including the scalp, the hair and / or the lips, comprising the application to the skin, the hair and / or the lips, of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 22. Method according to the preceding claim for the care and / or treatment of dry and / or sensitive skin. 23. The method of claim 21 for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for reducing wrinkles and fine lines and / or skin spots and / or smooth and / or firm skin and / or unify the complexion, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20.