EP4440377A1

EP4440377A1 - Applicator for the lips with gripping system to be clamped between two fingers

Info

Publication number: EP4440377A1
Application number: EP22818205.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Helga MALAPRADE; Grégoire CHARRAUD; Aldina SUWANTO; Matthieu JACOB; Alix BEGOC
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-12-03
Filing date: 2022-11-04
Publication date: 2024-10-09
Anticipated expiration: 2042-11-04
Also published as: CN118354701A; FR3129817B1; ES3040943T3; US20240407534A1; WO2023099108A1; EP4440377B1; EP4440377C0; FR3129817A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a personalized cosmetic applicator (1), of longitudinal axis X, for applying a cosmetic composition (P) to the lips, the applicator having an application element (10) provided with a porous material (8) intended to be applied to the lips and a gripping system (20) defined by a connection member (5) connecting two opposite gripping elements (4a, 4b), which are configured to be held tightly between two fingers of a user.

Description

Title: Applicator for the lips with gripping system to be clamped between two fingers

[0001] The present invention relates to an applicator for applying a cosmetic product to the lips of a user, the applicator defining a surface for applying the cosmetic product that has a shape complementary to the lips.

[0002] The cosmetic product is in particular a make-up product for the lips, such as a product for coloring the lips.

[0003] More generally, a cosmetic product is a product as defined in EC Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.

Technological background

[0004] In order to apply a make-up product to the lips of a user, it is known to use a stick of lipstick to transfer product by sliding. Such a mode of transfer is effective, but is not always precise, in particular for the creation of the contour. When the user is busy, they generally avoid using products that are long-lasting or brightly colored, so as to avoid losing time in the event of retouching the contour.

[0005] Furthermore, in order to obtain a very satisfactory rendering, the user may, when they have time, use a liner to create the contour, and a conventional stick lipstick to cover the inner part of the lips.

[0006] This make-up method is not entirely satisfactory, since it is long and tedious to implement. In addition, the contour often resists wear better than the inner part, and this sometimes leads to an unsightly change in the make-up result over time.

[0007] To overcome this problem, it is known for example from the documents FR 752 860, US 2 279 781, US 2 207 959, FR 663 805, US 2 412 073, US 3 308 837, US 2 735 435, US 1 556 744, US 2 248 533, US 2 416 029, US 1 944 691, US 1 782 911, US 2 554 965, US 2 199 720, WO 2008/013608, US 2003/209254 and US 2010/0322693 to use make-up application pads that have a shape substantially complementary to the shape of the lips. Such pads make it possible to apply the make-up product by pressing, and not by sliding. The contour line obtained is therefore generally much cleaner than that obtained with a traditional lipstick. [0008] However, the applicators described in these documents are not entirely satisfactory. Specifically, although the pad systems improve the results in certain cases, it is sometimes necessary to correct imperfections by pinching the lips together. However, the outline of the upper part of the contour of the lips, in particular at the “Cupid’s bow”, is detrimentally affected. In particular, the pad systems do not give a result that is completely clean at this Cupid’s bow. In this zone, the contour line is not clean, and the surface is overloaded. Conversely, in certain cases, the central surface is done well, but the outline and the contour line are imperfect.

[0009] In order to overcome this problem, it is possible to obtain assistance from a beautician, or to take the time to draw a clean outline with a corrector pencil, and this makes the make-up operation tedious.

[0010] Other solutions have been described in applications WO 2013/045332, FR 2 980 345, WO 2013/092726, and FR 2 984 699 for producing an applicator adapted to the individual morphology of the lips. In order to achieve this, an impression of the lips of the user is produced from a record of the contour of the lips corrected generically, and then a countermold is produced, which will be used as an applicator. The user places the product in the countermold, before applying to the lips. Another option is to deliver the product through the countermold, via a multitude of holes. This solution constitutes progress, particularly as regards the cleanness and speed of application, but does not allow ideal make-up application.

[0011] There does not yet exist a solution that is completely satisfactory for the users for simply, autonomously and reliably achieving a satisfactory make-up result on the lips, the applicators being, inter alia, difficult to perfectly position on the lips, even if they are tailor-made. Furthermore, the transfer of formula from the applicator to the skin is not optimal, in so far as a space is often locally created between the applicator and the zone to be treated.

[0012] There is a need to continue to improve applicators in which the composition is contained in the form of impregnation of a porous material, in particular in order to improve the loading of the applicator, in particular when the latter has an application surface adapted to the relief of a specific zone of the face.

[0013] The patent FR 3099349, of which the Applicant is the proprietor, discloses in figure 7 an example of a porous applicator impregnated with a cosmetic composition, having a front face matching the contour of the lips and a rear face provided with a gripping ring. [0014] There is a need to make it even easier to apply makeup to and care for human keratin materials, in particular to easily and precisely achieve makeup results on the lips in an autonomous manner.

[0015] The present invention aims in particular to meet this need.

Definition of the invention

[0016] The invention relates to a cosmetic applicator of longitudinal axis X for applying a cosmetic product to the lips of a user, which are defined by a contour of the lips and by a separation line between an upper lip and a lower lip, the applicator has a gripping system and an application element comprising a porous material having a rear face and a front face, which is opposite the rear face and defines an application surface with a shape complementary to that of the lips of the user, the application surface being delimited by a peripheral line following the contour of the lips and by a crest zone that is able to be engaged between the upper lip and the lower lip, facing the separation line, the gripping system has a connection member connecting two gripping elements that are disposed opposite one another with respect to the longitudinal axis X and configured to be held tightly between two fingers of a user, each gripping element delimiting an external gripping surface intended to come into contact with the fingers, and the connection member defines a central housing that is open at its distal end, the application element being partially inserted into the housing, the rear face of the application element being oriented toward a bottom of the housing and the front face of the application element entirely protruding out of the housing.

[0017] Preferably, the applicator is personalized, in particular so as to correspond to the topography of the lips of the user. In particular, the peripheral line follows the Cupid’s bow of the lips of the user.

[0018] As a result of the particular structure of the gripping system promoting satisfactory holding of the applicator in the hand, the user can precisely place the applicator on the lips and bear exclusively on the lips before pressing the application element onto them. Thus, the product is applied only to the lips, without running over onto the skin situated close by.

[0019] The fact that the application element bears on the bottom of the housing not only at the periphery but also in a central zone makes it possible to distribute the force more uniformly over the application element, and thus to have better contact pressure between the application element and the lips. [0020] It then follows that, upon application, the composition can be applied relatively uniformly via the application surface, with a lower risk of surpluses or absences of composition in places.

[0021] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method comprising the operations consisting in: (i) providing an applicator as defined above, (ii) grasping the two opposite gripping elements between two fingers, (iii) optionally, positioning the centering lug between the upper lip and the lower lip, (iv) placing the front face of the application element in contact with the lips, (v) pressing the application surface against the lips.

[0022] Preferably, the method according to the invention involves a prior operation consisting in (vi) performing an optical acquisition of at least a part of the surface of the lips of a person, and producing, from at least the optical acquisition, a personalized applicator as defined above or a mold used for the manufacture thereof.

Main definitions

[0023] A "cross section of a part of axis X' is a section perpendicular to the axis X of the part.

[0024] The “ longitudinal axis of a part' denotes the line connecting all the centers of mass of the cross sections of a part.

[0025] In particular, only the application surface of the application element may be loaded with cosmetic product, or the application element may be totally or partially impregnated with cosmetic product. Optionally, the application surface may be, at least before use, forced elastically to bear against a free surface of the product contained in a product reservoir, for example in a case or a pot, and this may be sufficient to ensure correct loading of the application face with the product. The product can form a deposit on the application surface.

[0026] The application element may be constituted of an element that is elastically compressible to a greater or lesser extent, on which is mounted or which includes an application surface, in particular in the form of a foam, a woven fabric or a non-woven fabric. The application surface may be relatively smooth or have reliefs that are able to have a massaging action when they are applied to the skin.

Preferred embodiments

[0027] Preferably, the applicator according to the invention has one or more of the following features, taken alone or in combination: [0028] The application element has a shape that is personalized to the lips of the user.

[0029] At least a part of the application element is situated between the gripping elements. This results in better holding of the applicator in the hand.

[0030] The application surface is impregnated with the cosmetic product.

[0031] The rear face of the application element bears on at least a central location of the bottom of the housing. The application member is kept in the housing better.

[0032] Each gripping element is kept apart from the connection member by a spacer. Since the connection elements are not in contact with the application element, the holding in the hand is made easier and the risk of soiling by the application element is reduced.

[0033] A centering lug, extending along the longitudinal axis X of the applicator, is fastened at the center of the front face of the application element. The correct placement of the applicator on the lips is made easier.

[0034] The front face of the application element has an elastically compressible material defined by a Shore hardness of between 30A and 60A. This hardness range is ideal for good transfer of product to the lips.

[0035] The rear face is flat. It follows that the application element can bear against the bottom of the housing better.

[0036] The application element has a longitudinal section along the longitudinal axis X that is concave toward the outside, in particular a profile in the shape of an arc of a circle. Its shape is substantially complementary to that of the lips.

[0037] The connection member is delimited by a lateral wall keeping the application element in place and defining the periphery of the housing. It follows that the application element is fastened in the connection member better.

[0038] Personalization of the applicator

[0039] The contour of the application surface of the applicator may correspond to the natural contour of the lips.

[0040] In one variant, the contour of the application surface diverges from the natural contour of the lips in order, for example, to correct a defect or to change the appearance of the made up lips. [0041] The topography may be obtained by a 3D scan of the body surface. This makes it possible to obtain a personalized, tailor-made application surface.

[0042] In order to carry out the 3D scan, it is possible to use any 3D scanner capable of capturing the volume and the dimensions of the zone in question. The 3D scan is advantageously a scan produced by projecting fringes of light, but any other structured light is possible.

[0043] A file that is readable by a CNC machine or by a 3D printer is advantageously generated, said file being able to be saved, in particular automatically, for example in the cloud or on a central server.

[0044] A translated digital copy of a surface, possibly a reworked surface, obtained from the 3D scan, is advantageously created, and then a smoothed volume of the part of the device having the application surface or of the mold between said surface and the translated copy thereof may be generated.

[0045] At least a part of the applicator having the application surface is advantageously produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing. In one variant, a mold used for manufacturing at least a part of the applicator having the application surface is advantageously produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing.

[0046] The method for manufacturing the applicator may include a preliminary step of creating an impression. The impression may in particular be created by direct molding of the zone to be made up or indirectly on the basis of such molding, for example with the aid of an intermediate mold.

[0047] Cosmetic composition

[0048] The composition is preferably fluid.

[0049] The viscosity of the composition is for example between 40 and 90 UD (Deviation Unit), preferably between 55 and 80 UD, or between 366 and 569 cP (0.37 and 0.57 Pa.s).

[0050] This viscosity is measured at 25°C with a Rheomat 180 (Lamy) equipped with an MS-R2 spindle, selected for a low to medium viscosity of the product, which rotates at a speed of 200 revolutions per minute. The measurement is taken after a rotation time of 10 minutes. The viscosity measurements are taken at the latest one week after manufacture. [0051] Such a viscosity makes it possible to improve the taking of the composition from the front face of the application element and to avoid the composition flowing during use.

[0052] The cosmetic composition may or may not be colored or perfumed.

[0053] Application element

[0054] The application element can be constituted exclusively by the porous material. However, it may prove advantageous to cover the porous material at least partially, in particular on its upper face, with at least one layer of another material, for example so as to improve the homogeneity of the composition on the front face of the application element or more generally adjust the permeability to the composition of the application element as a function of the location on its upper face.

[0055] The application element may thus have, for example, a net or a membrane at the surface of the porous material, through which the composition is taken up, in particular a net made of polyolefin, in particular of polyethylene.

[0056] Porous material

[0057] The porous material of the application element is preferably formed at least partially by an elastically deformable and compressible material. It may be an open-cell foam, in particular an injected foam, for example a polyamide (nylon) foam, a polyurethane (PU) foam, a polyacrylonitrile (PAN) foam, a polyethylene (PE) foam, an ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) foam or a poly(vinyl chloride) (PVC) foam, a silicone foam.

[0058] The porous material can have a molded form, which simplifies the manufacturing of the applicator, a thermoformed form or a machined form. The porous material may be in the form of a block having a shape that is axisymmetric or exhibits symmetry of revolution, or without any symmetry.

[0059] The rear face of the application element, and in particular that of the porous material, can have a lower absorption capacity at its perimeter than at its center. The cosmetic composition then preferentially flows via the center rather than via the periphery when the user presses on the application element and compresses the porous material. This makes it possible to favor the flow toward the center of the application element, in particular toward the zones that are convex toward the outside. It is thus possible to improve the loading of the applicator when the latter comes into contact with the application element. [0060] The rear face may have non-uniform porosity; the perimeter of the rear face may be less porous than the center of the lower face.

[0061] The porous material in the application element may have a polydispersed porosity foam of which the dimension of the pores on the perimeter of the rear face is small enough to prevent the cosmetic composition passing through a peripheral zone of the porous material. As a variant, the perimeter of the rear face is covered at least partially with a material, in particular a textile, with a porosity lower than that of the porous material, locally reducing the absorption capacity of the porous material.

[0062] Preferably, the porous material is fastened to a wall of the housing, for example by adhesive bonding, welding, or using a fastener with an added element, or by clamping or pinching.

[0063] When the application element has a net or a membrane covering the porous material, this net or membrane can contribute to keeping the porous material in the housing.

[0064] The application can be done by transfer, by pressing the applicator onto the surface to be made up, as mentioned above.

Description of the figures

Further features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from reading the following detailed description of nonlimiting implementation examples thereof and from examining the appended drawing, in which:

[0065] [Fig. 1] Figure 1 is a perspective view from the rear of an applicator according to the invention,

[0066] [Fig. 2] Figure 2 is a perspective view from above of the applicator in figure 1,

[0067] [Fig. 3] Figure 3 shows an exemplary first variant of the application element, on its own, in perspective from above,

[0068] [Fig. 4] Figure 4 shows an exemplary second variant of the application element, on its own, in perspective from the side.

[0069] An applicator 1 of longitudinal axis X according to the invention is illustrated by figures 1 and 2. This applicator 1 is intended to apply cosmetic product to the lips of a user, following the contour of the lips. This applicator is for example ergonomic, and adapted to the reliefs of a specific zone of the face, in particular to the lips. [0070] The cosmetic product is for example a make-up product for the lips such as a product for coloring the lips. The product is in fluid form, in particular in liquid or gel form. As a variant, the cosmetic product is formed by a solid or a cream.

[0071] As illustrated by figures 1 and 2, the applicator 1 defines a surface 16 for applying the cosmetic product to the lips. The surface 16 has a shape complementary to that of the lips of a user, having a protruding central region 42 that is able to come between the two lips and a peripheral line 44 having a shape following the contour of the lips of the user.

[0072] The central region 42 has two lower surfaces 48a, 48b of shapes that are respectively complementary to the upper lip and to the lower lip of a user. The surfaces 48a, 48b are separated by an intermediate protrusion 40 forming a crest zone 25, in particular a crest line, intended to be inserted between the upper and lower lips and extending substantially along a longitudinal axis A that is curved toward the outside of the applicator. The surfaces 48a, 48b may be flat or concave toward the outside, following the shape of the line separating the lips of the user. They have, for example, an upper cavity corresponding to the upper lip, and a lower cavity corresponding to the lower lip.

[0073] An application element 10 having a porous material 8, which is cellular, is disposed in the housing 22 of a connection member 5, and impregnated with the cosmetic composition.

[0074] The porous material 5 is preferably an injected foam, for example a polyurethane (PU) foam or a polyethylene (PE) foam.

[0075] The application element 10 may have a volume (in the non-impregnated state) of between 10 and 200 cm³, better still between 20 and 150 cm³, even better still between 30 and 100 cm³.

[0076] The application element 10 may have a major width of between 30 and 100 mm, better still between 40 and 80 mm, and a minor width of between 5 and 30 mm, better still between 4 and 20 mm.

[0077] The applicator 1 has a gripping system 20 at the rear formed by a connecting member 5 connecting two gripping elements 4a, 4b situated on either side of the application element 10 and extending parallel to the longitudinal axis X, from the spacers 2, 3 respectively connecting the gripping elements 4a, 4b to the connection member 5.

[0078] Each gripping element 4a, 4b defines a respective gripping surface 6a, 6b that allows the user to hold the applicator while applying the product. Preferably, the gripping elements 4a, 4b are separated by a distance Li of between 40 mm and 70 mm. The gripping surfaces may be inclined relative to the longitudinal axis X, in particular converging toward the application surface 16.

[0079] One or more distinctive signs, such as a make and/or a forename, may be inscribed on the gripping system, for example so as to be able to recognize the make and/or the owner. The gripping system may be manufactured for example by micro-machining or by 3D printing.

[0080] The application element 10 may have a maximum height HT of between 10 and 40 mm, for example around 30 mm. The porous material 8 preferentially has a flat rear face 11 and the front face 12 matches the shape of the lips of the user.

[0081] In the example shown in figures 1 and 2, the application element comprises only one porous material, but this does not have to be the case. For example, the rear face 11 of the application element 10 could be a non-porous film.

[0082] The connection member 5 has a skirt of elongate cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal axis X, for example of rectangular or oval profile. The skirt forms a lateral wall 18 laterally delimiting a housing 22 for mounting the application element in the gripping part 20. The internal face of the skirt defines the periphery 26 of the housing 2 and the external face of the skirt 17 forms the visible face of the connection member.

[0083] The bottom 24 of the housing may be open or closed by a bottom wall forming in particular a bearing surface for the rear face of the application element inserted into the housing 22 and fastened thereto for example by force-fitting or adhesive bonding.

[0084] The application element 10 protrudes toward the outside of the housing 22 from the periphery 26 as far as its free edge 19 defining the crest zone, a centering lug 7, optionally engaged in the porous material, making it easier to position the applicator 1 between the lips and ensuring that it centers itself relative to the lips.

[0085] The porous material is engaged in the housing 22 over the entire height Hi of the housing, emerging over a height H2 greater than or equal to the height Hi, the heights being measured along the longitudinal axis X. Thus, the porous material is clamped in the housing 22. Generally, this clamping action may correspond to a difference in width of between 0.02 mm and 0.3 mm between the inner lateral face of the housing and the outer lateral face of the porous material. [0086] In figure 3, the porous material 10 is produced by 3D printing, entirely from silicone elastomer.

[0087] In figure 4, the porous material 10 is made of two materials, with a front soft layer 52 that defines the application surface 16 and a rear hard layer 51. The soft layer 52 may in particular be: (a) a molded silicone layer to control the surface finish and improve the result of the stamping, (b) a layer that is cut to measure, in particular with a laser, to match the shape of the hard layer 51 of the applicator and adhesively bonded on top, (c) a 3D printed silicone or polyurethane layer. The hard layer 51 may in particular be made of ceramic by 3D printing.

[0088] Of course, the invention is not limited to the exemplary embodiments that have just been described. For example, the support is produced with other materials or other shapes.

Claims

[Claim 1 ] A cosmetic applicator (1) of longitudinal axis (X) for applying a cosmetic product to the lips of a user, which are defined by a contour of the lips and by a separation line between an upper lip and a lower lip, the applicator (1) has a gripping system (20) and an application element (10) comprising a porous material (8) having a rear face (11) and a front face (12), which is opposite the rear face and defines an application surface (16) with a shape complementary to that of the lips of the user, the application surface (16) being delimited by a peripheral line (44) following the contour of the lips and by a crest zone (25) that is able to be engaged between the upper lip and the lower lip, facing the separation line, characterized by the fact that the gripping system (20) has a connection member (5) connecting two gripping elements (4a, 4b) that are disposed opposite one another with respect to the longitudinal axis (X) and configured to be held tightly between two fingers of a user, each gripping element delimiting an external gripping surface (6a, 6b) intended to come into contact with the fingers, and the connection member (5) defines a central housing (22) that is open at its distal end, the application element being partially inserted into the housing (22), the rear face (11) of the application element (10) being oriented toward a bottom (24) of the housing (22) and the front face (12) of the application element (10) entirely protruding out of the housing (22).

[Claim 2] The applicator (1) as claimed in claim 1, characterized by the fact that the application element (10) has a shape that is personalized to the lips of the user.

[Claim 3] The applicator (1) as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that at least a part of the application element (10) is situated between the gripping elements (4a, 4b).

[Claim 4] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the application surface (16) is impregnated with the cosmetic product.

[Claim 5] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the rear face (11) of the application element (10) bears on at least a central location of the bottom (24) of the housing (22).

[Claim 6] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that each gripping element (4a, 4b) is kept apart from the connection member (5) by a spacer (2, 3). [Claim 7] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that a centering lug

(7), extending along the longitudinal axis (X) of the applicator, is fastened at the center of the front face (12) of the application element (10).

[Claim 8] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the front face (12) of the application element (10) has an elastically compressible material defined by a Shore hardness of between 30A and 60 A.

[Claim 9] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the application element (10) has a longitudinal section along the longitudinal axis (X) that is concave toward the outside, in particular a profile in the shape of an arc of a circle.

[Claim 10] The applicator (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the connection member (5) is delimited by a lateral wall (18) keeping the application element (10) in place and defining the periphery (26) of the housing (22).

[Claim 1 1 ] A cosmetic method comprising the operations consisting in: (i) providing an applicator (1) as claimed in claim 1, (ii) grasping the two opposite gripping elements (4a, 4b) between two fingers, (iii) optionally, positioning the centering lug (7) between the upper lip and the lower lip, (iv) placing the front face (12) of the application element in contact with the lips, (v) pressing the application surface (16) against the lips.

[Claim 12] The method as claimed in claim 11, characterized by the fact that it involves a prior operation consisting in (vi) performing an optical acquisition of at least a part of the surface of the lips of a person, and producing, from at least the optical acquisition, a personalized applicator (1) as claimed in claim 1 or a mold used for the manufacture thereof.