EP4074210B1 - Composite pour éléments de joaillerie - Google Patents

Composite pour éléments de joaillerie Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4074210B1
EP4074210B1 EP22167524.2A EP22167524A EP4074210B1 EP 4074210 B1 EP4074210 B1 EP 4074210B1 EP 22167524 A EP22167524 A EP 22167524A EP 4074210 B1 EP4074210 B1 EP 4074210B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jewelry
link
locking
links
locking member
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP22167524.2A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP4074210A1 (fr
EP4074210C0 (fr
Inventor
Luca Iapichino
Axel Scheffel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Scheffel Schmuck Hgmbh
Original Assignee
Scheffel Schmuck Hgmbh
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Publication date
Application filed by Scheffel Schmuck Hgmbh filed Critical Scheffel Schmuck Hgmbh
Publication of EP4074210A1 publication Critical patent/EP4074210A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4074210B1 publication Critical patent/EP4074210B1/fr
Publication of EP4074210C0 publication Critical patent/EP4074210C0/fr
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Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A44C11/007Tennis type
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02Link constructions
    • A44C5/04Link constructions extensible
    • A44C5/08Link constructions extensible having separate links

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to a jewelry link composite, a jewelry link of such a jewelry link composite and a method for producing such a jewelry link composite.
  • a jewelry link assembly i.e. an arrangement of a large number of individual (jewelry) links that can be positively coupled to form a composite, which combines to form a (necklace) chain, a bracelet or tennis bracelet, an ankle chain or a finger or toe ring is well known.
  • Such a jewelry link composite can be converted into a circumferential, closed ring shape and in such a ring shape state can be reversibly expanded/stretched up to a predetermined maximum width when put on or taken off as well as when worn.
  • Such a jewelry link assembly can be slipped over the head, hand, foot, finger or toe in the closed ring shape state, or can rest against the relevant part of the body with a precisely adjusted width.
  • An elastic element which is formed, for example, by an elastic band made of at least partially elastomeric plastic or by an elongated spring element, is preferably completely received by the circumferential jewelry links, which are positively connected to one another to form a closed ring shape. Due to its elastic properties, the elastic element can also be reversibly expanded and supports the expandability of the jewelry link composite converted into the closed ring shape. The elastic element is usually not visible from the outside and therefore does not affect the appearance of the decorative link combination.
  • Such a decorative link assembly is, for example EP 3 562 347 B1 , which discloses the preamble of claim 1, known.
  • a bracelet is disclosed herein, which is composed of a large number of decorative links that are strung on an elastic element, which is designed here as a spring.
  • the decorative links are lined up on the spring via their through holes running in the direction of arrangement and then connected to one another.
  • a decorative link has a hollow connecting pin that continues the through hole, from the free end of which two locking projections protrude in opposite directions.
  • the decorative element has side openings on two opposite side walls that run in the direction of arrangement.
  • the two locking projections of one jewelry link can be inserted into the axial through hole of another jewelry link and engage in its side openings.
  • the side openings are dimensioned such that the locking projections can be brought into engagement with them with a certain amount of play in the arrangement direction.
  • fastening bolts are inserted into the jewelry link via holes provided on the underside of the jewelry link and welded to the jewelry link. The jewelry links are thus connected to one another to form a captive, ring-shaped jewelry link assembly.
  • US 10 271 619 B1 a composite of decorative links connected to one another in a form-fitting manner, which have a through hole running in the direction of arrangement in order to be able to accommodate an elastic support element, for example a spring.
  • the decorative link On the front, the decorative link has two locking hooks that are aligned in the direction of arrangement and, in the normal state, run parallel to one another and each project outwards. The locking hooks are each arranged next to the through hole.
  • the decorative link has a rectangular opening on the back (which is opposite the front) through which the locking hooks of another decorative link can be inserted.
  • the locking hooks are compressed so that they can be inserted into the rectangular opening at the back of another jewelry link. Once the locking hooks have passed the opening at the back, they expand back to their normal state due to their material flexibility and their projections engage the side openings.
  • the rectangular side openings are dimensioned so that the rectangular hooks can be brought into engagement with them with a certain amount of play in the direction of arrangement.
  • the jewelry links have openings on their side walls in order to be able to accommodate locking elements of another jewelry link.
  • the wall thickness must therefore have a certain minimum thickness, so that such decorative links are limited in their filigree or delicate structure.
  • the production of small jewelry links and thus also delicate jewelry link assemblies is therefore more difficult.
  • dirt can penetrate through the side openings on the decorative links into the axial through holes of the decorative links, in which the elastic element is accommodated. Dirt that has penetrated can impair the freedom of movement and thus the elasticity of the elastic element, so that the spreading of the ring-shaped decorative link composite is made more difficult or impaired.
  • a decorative link composite is to be made available which can have delicate decorative links with a small wall thickness.
  • the entry of dirt into the jewelry links should be prevented in order to ensure simple and low-friction movement of the elastic element within the jewelry links.
  • the present disclosure provides a jewelry link assembly with a plurality of individual jewelry members that can be coupled to one another in a form-fitting manner, each of the plurality of jewelry members having a through hole extending in the direction of arrangement of the jewelry members for receiving a preferably elastic support element extending through several, preferably all, jewelry members having.
  • the plurality of decorative links each have at least two locking tongues arranged next to the through hole and projecting in the arrangement direction with elongated holes extending in the arrangement direction.
  • the inner flanks of the through hole have at least two inwardly projecting locking lugs.
  • the locking tongues of one decorative link can be inserted into the through hole of another decorative link and engaged with the locking lugs of the other decorative link in a form-fitting manner, but with a certain amount of play in the direction of arrangement.
  • the present disclosure relates to a jewelry link assembly, in particular in the form of a bracelet, a necklace or a ring, which has a large number of jewelry links arranged in a row that are positively connected to one another.
  • Each decorative link has a hollow body which has a pair of transverse surfaces extending transversely to the direction of arrangement of the decorative link.
  • One transverse surface defines a front surface of the Decorative link and the other transverse surface defines a back surface of the decorative link.
  • the front surface and the back surface are opposite each other.
  • the hollow body has a pair of longitudinal surfaces extending in the arrangement direction, one longitudinal surface being a left surface and the other longitudinal surface being a right surface, and the left surface and the right surface opposing each other.
  • each decorative member has two locking tongues which extend outwardly from the front surface of the hollow body along the arrangement direction and are each provided on diametrically opposite sides of the first opening.
  • the two locking tongues are each provided with an elongated hole that extends in the direction of arrangement.
  • the decorative link has a radially inwardly projecting locking lug on an inside/inner flank of the hollow body on two diametrically opposite sides of the through hole.
  • the two locking tongues and the two locking lugs are designed and arranged in such a way that the elongated holes of one jewelry link can engage with the locking lugs of another jewelry link.
  • Such a jewelry link assembly has the advantage that the mobility of the jewelry members relative to one another in the arrangement direction can be achieved without side openings having to be provided in the side walls of the individual jewelry members.
  • the ratio of the length of the elongated holes to the diameter of the locking lugs determines the maximum distance between two jewelry links.
  • the side walls of the decorative links are designed without side openings and are therefore continuous, so that they are stable and even delicate decorative links with small wall thicknesses can be created.
  • additional dirt entry can be avoided since the side walls of the decorative links, which run in the direction of arrangement, are not interrupted or broken through by side openings.
  • this type of coupling does not affect the external appearance of the individual jewelry links, which increases the freedom of design.
  • the arrangement direction corresponds to the direction in which the locking tongues of one jewelry link are inserted into the through hole of another jewelry link, or the axial direction of a straight composite or the circumferential direction of a circular (closed) composite.
  • the individual jewelry links can be identical, but also different, as long as the individual jewelry members are compatible with one another with regard to the coupling elements (locking tongues and locking lugs) and can be coupled according to the invention.
  • the jewelry links are connected to one another in a form-fitting manner, they form a captive connection, regardless of any support element (e.g. spring/thread/chain) that may be accommodated inside, which remains connected to one another even if the support element is damaged or tears. This means that no individual jewelry links, which can be very valuable, can be lost, which increases the wearer's feeling of security.
  • any support element e.g. spring/thread/chain
  • Each jewelry link (including a last jewelry link) preferably has a rigid, i.e. plastically non-deformable, jewelry link body.
  • the locking lugs extend in the arrangement direction from the jewelry link body, in which the through hole is provided for receiving the support element.
  • the locking lugs of one jewelry link are inserted into the through hole of another (previous) jewelry link in a state that is plastically bent towards one another (insertion state).
  • the locking lugs are plastically bent away from each other compared to the insertion state in order to positively connect one jewelry link to the other (preceding) jewelry link (connection state).
  • the locking lugs are bent apart between the insertion state and the connection state by external force (not due to the inherent material flexibility or restoring force).
  • An advantageous embodiment of the disclosure provides that the jewelry link composite is guided through the through holes of the jewelry links, preferably elastic, supporting element, preferably in the form of a spring.
  • the support element of this type tensions adjacent jewelry links flat against each other, with the length or diameter of the jewelry link composite being able to be increased by stretching the elastic support element.
  • the diameter or circumference of the jewelry link composite of this type can, among other things, be individually adapted to the desired body part on which the jewelry link composite is to be worn using the support element.
  • the locking tongues of one jewelry link are plastically bendable inwards before insertion into the through hole of the other jewelry link and plastically bendable outwards after insertion into the through hole of the other jewelry link.
  • the jewelry links can be cast from precious metal, such as gold.
  • the decorative links are cast with the locking tongues in their locking position and the locking tongues are only bent plastically inwards or towards each other before they are connected to another decorative link.
  • plastically bending the locking tongues of one jewelry link relative to one another they can be easily and quickly inserted into the through hole of the other jewelry link. Due to the subsequent plastic expansion of the locking tongues back to the initial state, the elongated holes of one jewelry link are easily and reliably brought into engagement with the locking lugs of the other jewelry link and remain in this locking position for a long time due to a memory effect resulting from the manufacturing process or casting.
  • a first closure member can be coupled to the first jewelry member and a second closure member can be coupled to the last jewelry member from the plurality of jewelry members coupled to one another, and that the closure members can be coupled to one another in order to achieve the coupled to one another To be able to connect jewelry links to form a closed ring or closed circlet.
  • closure links enables a simple and safe transfer of several jewelry links coupled together into a closed ring/hoop shape.
  • the closure members can easily be connected to one another from outside since they do not have any plastically bendable coupling elements or locking lugs. More precisely, both the first closure member and the second closure member each have a through hole or transverse hole, which are aligned (with each other) when the closure members are coupled to one another.
  • a closure element preferably a, in particular rod-shaped, bolt or locking pin is inserted into these (with each other) aligned through holes or transverse holes when the ring is coupled to the closed state (of the jewelry link assembly).
  • each closure member has a through hole for receiving the support element and both ends or the separation point of the support element can be arranged within the two closure members.
  • a first end of the support element is connected to the first closure member by means of a first locking pin, which is through a Cross bore intersecting the through hole of the second closure member can be inserted and can be coupled; and/or a second end of the support element can be coupled to the last decorative link by means of a second locking pin, which can be inserted through a transverse bore intersecting the through hole of the last decorative link.
  • connection of the first end of the support element to the first closure member and the second end of the support element to the last decorative link via the first and second locking pins is particularly secure.
  • the locking pins prevent the ends of the support element from coming loose. The locking pins thus prevent undesirable slipping of the support element within the jewelry link composite that has been converted into the ring/hoop shape.
  • the first closure member can have a first locking hollow pin projecting in the arrangement direction for insertion into the through hole of the second closure member and the second closure member can have a second locking hollow pin projecting in the arrangement direction for insertion into the through hole of the last jewelry link.
  • the first locking hollow pin can have a transverse bore which is aligned with a transverse bore in the second locking member when the first locking hollow pin is inserted into the through hole of the second locking member, and the first locking member and the second locking member can be coupled by means of a first locking pin inserted into the aligned transverse bores .
  • the second locking hollow pin can also have a transverse bore which is aligned with a transverse bore in the last decorative link when the second locking hollow pin is inserted into the through hole of the last decorative link, and the second locking link and the last decorative link can be coupled by means of a second locking pin inserted into the aligned transverse bores are.
  • connection of the closure links to one another and to the last decorative link via the aligned cross holes into which the locking pins can be inserted can be easily accomplished from the outside. Also this type of connection ensures a durable connection between the elements (closure links and the final decorative link).
  • both one end of the support element and the second closure member can be coupled to the first closure member with the first locking pin.
  • both the other end of the support element and the last decorative link can be coupled to the second locking element using the second locking pin.
  • locking pins fulfill two tasks at the same time: on the one hand, they serve to couple the ends of the support element with the closure parts or the last decorative link and, on the other hand, they serve to couple the closure parts and the last decorative link to one another.
  • At least two jewelry links are firmly, in particular cohesively, connected to one another transversely to the direction of arrangement in order to form a multi-row composite.
  • a jewelry link for a jewelry link assembly as described above.
  • Such a jewelry link has a through hole which extends in the direction of arrangement of several jewelry links to form the jewelry link composite for receiving a, preferably elastic, support element which extends through the jewelry link.
  • the decorative element has at least two locking tongues arranged next to the through hole and projecting in the arrangement direction with elongated holes extending in the arrangement direction and has at least two inwardly projecting locking lugs on the inner flanks of the through hole.
  • the locking tabs can be inserted into the through hole of an identical or Insert a compatible other jewelry link and engage it with the locking lugs of the other jewelry link in a form-fitting manner, but with a certain amount of play in the direction of arrangement.
  • the decorative link composite according to the present disclosure can be obtained by positively connecting a large number of such decorative links to one another.
  • the present disclosure relates to a method for producing the jewelry link composite according to the present disclosure with the following steps, which preferably take place in the order listed here: a) bending the locking tongues of the first jewelry link inwardly or towards each other starting from their initial state; b) inserting the locking tongues of the first decorative link into the through hole of the first closure member so that the elongated holes of the locking tongues of the first decorative link are aligned with the locking lugs of the first closure link; c) bending the locking tongues of the first jewelry link outwards or apart to their initial state so that the locking tongues engage the respective locking lugs; and d) repeating steps a) and to c) with the second decorative link () and another decorative link until the arrangement has the desired number of decorative links.
  • Step c) of the above method can be divided into the following steps: c1) inserting a bending mandrel into the through hole of the first decorative link in the direction of the first closure link; and c2) Plastic forming of the locking tongues radially outwards by inserting the bending mandrel.
  • Using a bending mandrel to bend the locking tongues outwards away from each other and to return them to their initial state is quick and easy to implement and handle.
  • the method may further comprise the following steps: e) inserting the support member from the side of the first closure link to the last jewelry link; f) coupling the second closure link to the last decorative link and the last decorative link to the second end of the support element; and g) coupling the first closure member to the second closure member and the first end of the support element to the first closure member under elastic bias so that adjacent closure members and decorative members are elastically biased against each other in the arrangement direction.
  • step e the support element can simply be inserted into the through holes of the jewelry links that were previously arranged in a row and connected to one another in a form-fitting manner.
  • step f the support element and the second closure link can be connected to the last decorative link using the aligned cross holes and the second locking pin.
  • step g the support element and the second closure member can be easily connected to the first closure member using the aligned transverse bores and the first locking pin.
  • the support element is prestressed, with the length of the support element being shorter than the length of the decorative links strung together.
  • Step f) can also be subdivided into the following steps: f1) inserting a second locking pin into a transverse hole in the last jewelry link, an aligned cross hole in the second locking hollow pin of the second closure member and through the support element located in the through hole of the second closure member; and f2) Flush and cohesive connection on both sides, in particular laser welding, of the second locking pin with the last decorative link.
  • step f1) the second closure link and the support element can be securely connected to the last decorative link. Due to the cohesive connection in step f2), accidental loosening between the composite of the second closure member, the support element and the last decorative member is very unlikely or impossible.
  • step g) can be divided into the following steps: g1) provisionally fixing the support element with the locking hollow pin of the first closure member under elastic prestress; g2) inserting a first locking pin into a transverse bore () in the second closure member (), an aligned transverse bore () in the first locking hollow pin of the first closure member and through the support element located in the through hole of the first closure member; and g3) Flush and cohesive connection on both sides, in particular laser welding, of the first locking pin with the second closure member.
  • step g1 The provisional fixing of the support element on the first connecting member in step g1) facilitates the prestressing of the support element.
  • the connection of the support element and the second closure member to the first closure member via the (first) locking pin and the corresponding transverse holes to form a composite according to step g2) can be carried out quickly and easily. By cohesively connecting the elements of this composite, accidental detachment of the elements from one another becomes unlikely or impossible.
  • the method for producing the jewelry link composite according to the present disclosure may include the following step: h) placing jewelry elements in receiving sections of the jewelry links and the closure members.
  • Corresponding jewelry elements are, for example, diamonds or gemstones, which are received in the jewelry links by outward-facing receiving sections.
  • Each jewelry link preferably has a receiving section and thus a decorative element.
  • the decorative elements are used to decorate and decorate the jewelry links.
  • Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a jewelry link assembly 1. This has a large number of jewelry links 2, which are positively connected to one another to form a closed ring/hoop.
  • Each jewelry link 2 is essentially cuboid or cube-shaped, but can also have a different shape, for example a spherical shape.
  • the jewelry links 2 can be produced using a machining process, a micro-casting process, an investment casting process, for which a certain number of wax or polymer patterns are produced for the jewelry links, for example using CNC milling or 3D printing. or produced via 3D printing.
  • the jewelry links 2 can be made from a plastically deformable material, in particular from a metal such as gold, silver or platinum, or from a material mixture or from an alloy that has at least one plastically deformable material.
  • the side surfaces of the decorative links 2 that are visible to the viewer are continuous.
  • the outward-facing top or visible side of each jewelry link is provided with a receiving section or enclosure 4 for receiving a jewelry element/gemstone 6, for example a gemstone such as a brilliant or diamond.
  • Each receiving section 4 has four (edging) prongs 8, each of which extends upwards from a corner of the decorative link 2.
  • Each point 8 is flattened at its tip.
  • the decorative link 2 essentially resembles a (human) molar.
  • the decorative element 6 is arranged and received between the four prongs 8.
  • the decorative links 2 do not have to have any decorative elements 2.
  • the decorative links 2 can be designed without spikes 8 and have a continuous surface on their visible side.
  • the decorative links 2 are in flat contact with one another on the sides facing each other. This means that the jewelry link composite formed into a closed ring is 1 in Fig. 1 not shown in the spread state.
  • Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section view of a section of a jewelry link composite 1 along line II-II.
  • the decorative links 2 here accommodate an (elastic) support element 10, for example a (spiral) spring (made of steel).
  • the support element 10 is in a through hole 12 each jewelry link 2 added.
  • the through hole 12 runs in the axial direction or in the arrangement direction A of the decorative links 2.
  • the three decorative links 2 are connected to one another in a form-fitting manner.
  • each jewelry link 2 has two (or more) locking tongues or tabs 14, only one of which is visible in this view.
  • Each locking tongue 14 extends in the arrangement direction A.
  • Each locking tongue 14 has an elongated hole 16, which also extends in the arrangement direction A.
  • each decorative link 2 has two (or more) opposing locking lugs or pins 18, only one of which is visible in this view.
  • the locking lugs 18 are preferably cylindrical or spherical in order to enable a certain degree of rotation or (angular) alignment of the jewelry links 2 relative to one another.
  • the locking lugs 18 are preferably formed in one piece (in material) with the decorative link 2.
  • a diameter of the elongated holes 16 is, in particular slightly, larger than a diameter of the locking lugs 18.
  • the longitudinal extent of the elongated holes 16 is significantly larger than the longitudinal extent of the locking lugs 18.
  • the length of the elongated holes 16 relative to the length of the locking lugs 18 defines a maximum distance between two interconnected jewelry links 2.
  • the locking lugs 18 of a jewelry link 2 are in engagement with the elongated holes 16 of another jewelry link 2.
  • the jewelry link assembly 1 is shown in the relaxed state, ie the mutually facing sides of the lined up and connected jewelry members 2 touch each other.
  • the locking lugs 18 of one jewelry link 2 are each at the first end of the elongated holes 16, which is closer to the proximal end of the locking pins 14 of the other jewelry link 2.
  • the in Fig. 2 is not shown, the locking lugs 18 of one jewelry link 2 are each located at the end of the elongated holes 16, which is closer to the distal end of the locking pins 14 of the other jewelry link 2.
  • Fig. 3 is a top view of the section of the decorative link composite Fig. 2 .
  • the three decorative links 2 are connected to one another in a form-fitting manner and are shown in the relaxed state.
  • the jewelry links 2 receive the support element 10, which extends through them.
  • the arrangement of the locking pins 14 on the jewelry link 2 becomes clear.
  • the two locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 merge at their non-free end, ie at the end which is closer to the jewelry link 2, into a common connecting section 20 which is in contact with the jewelry link 2.
  • the two locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 are advantageously formed in one piece (of material) with the connecting section 20.
  • Fig. 4A is a perspective view of a single jewelry link 2 from diagonally in front.
  • Each decorative link 2 has a hollow body which has a pair of transverse surfaces extending transversely to the axial direction or direction of arrangement and a pair of longitudinal surfaces extending in the axial direction or direction of arrangement.
  • One transverse surface defines a front surface 22 of the decorative link 2 and the other transverse surface defines a rear surface 23 (in Fig. 4A not shown) of the jewelry link 2.
  • the front surface 22 and the rear surface 23 lie opposite each other.
  • the through hole 12 extends continuously from the front surface 22 to the rear surface 23 and penetrates both the front surface 22 and the rear surface 23.
  • One longitudinal surface is defined as a left surface 24 and the other longitudinal surface is defined as a right surface 25.
  • the left surface 24 and the right surface 25 face each other.
  • the connecting section 20 is formed on the front surface 22, in particular in one piece (with material), from which the two locking tongues 14 with the elongated holes 16 extend in the arrangement direction A.
  • the locking tongues 14 are each provided on diametrically opposite sides of the through hole 12. In the present illustration, the locking tongues 14 are shown in their initial state. This means that the two locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 in their initial state taper towards each other starting from their free end towards the hollow body.
  • the mutually facing inner sides of the two locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link are concavely curved.
  • the outer sides of the two locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 facing away from each other are convexly curved.
  • the two locking tongues 14 define an axial channel 26 between their concavely curved inner sides, which merges into the through hole 12 of the hollow body of the jewelry link 2.
  • the top or visible side of the jewelry link 2 has an opening 28.
  • the breakthrough 28 is connected to the through hole 12.
  • the breakthrough 28 interacts with the four prongs 8 to form the receiving section 4.
  • all four prongs 8 each have a recess 30 in an area that faces the center of the opening 28.
  • the depressions 30 on the prongs 8 and the opening 28 are designed and arranged so that they can accommodate the decorative element 6.
  • Fig. 4B is a sectional view of the jewelry link Fig. 4A along axis IV-IV. In this view, a locking lug 18 of the jewelry link 2 shown is visible.
  • the locking nose 18 is cylindrical here, but could also be cube-shaped or have another shape as long as it can engage with the elongated hole 16.
  • the locking lugs 18 are located in direct proximity to the rear surface 23.
  • Fig. 5A is a perspective view of the decorative link from diagonally behind. Here you can see the rear surface 23, which is pierced by the through hole 12. The rear surface 23 thus has a circular opening 31.
  • the two locking lugs 18 of a jewelry link 2 are arranged on diametrically opposite sides of the through hole 12.
  • Fig. 5B is a sectional view of the jewelry link Fig. 5A along the axis VV. From this it can be seen that the locking lug 18 and the elongated hole 16 of the locking tongue 14 are arranged at the same height, so that the locking tongue 14 can mesh with the elongated hole 16 of a jewelry link 2 with the locking lug 18 of another jewelry link 2.
  • Fig. 6 is a side view of three decorative links lined up one behind the other in a state before they are positively connected to each other.
  • Each jewelry link 2 receives the support element 10 shown as a line.
  • the longitudinal line L of the locking tongues 14 or the elongated holes 16, which runs in the horizontal center of the locking lugs 14 or the elongated holes 16, extends in the arrangement direction A.
  • the longitudinal line L is not straight, but has a slight curvature.
  • an XY coordinate system is shown as an example for a jewelry link 2.
  • the central axis M of the hollow body of an ornamental link M which extends in the vertical direction of the ornamental link 2, coincides with the Y-axis, or extends in the Y-direction.
  • the longitudinal axis L does not run parallel to the X-axis or extend into it, but forms an angle with the X-axis.
  • the degree of this curvature/inclination of the locking tongues 14 determines/defines how many jewelry links must be connected to one another in a form-fitting manner in order to be able to obtain a jewelry link assembly in a closed ring/hoop shape.
  • Fig. 7A is a perspective view of four decorative links 2 lined up one behind the other, the locking tongues 14 of which are shown in the initial state. This means that the locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 in their initial state taper towards each other starting from their distal end towards their proximal end.
  • Fig. 7B is a perspective view of the four decorative links 2 lined up one behind the other, the locking tongues 14 of which start from the in Fig. 7A shown initial state were bent towards each other.
  • the locking tongues 14 In order to be able to insert the locking tongues 14 of a decorative link 2 via the opening 31 into the through hole 12 of another decorative link 2, the locking tongues 14 must be plastically bent towards one another or inwards.
  • Fig. 7C is a side view of the four decorative links starting from the in Fig. 7B shown state were connected to each other in a form-fitting manner and were received on a bending mandrel.
  • the locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 After the locking tongues 14 of a jewelry link 2 have been plastically bent towards one another, they can be inserted into the through hole 12 of another jewelry link 2 via the opening 31. So that the locking tongues 14 of one jewelry member can then engage with the locking lugs 18 of the other jewelry member, the locking tongues 14 of one jewelry member 2 must, when inserted into the through hole 12 of the other jewelry member 2, plastically move back outwards, that is, away from each other be bent to the initial state.
  • a bending mandrel 32 is used, the diameter of which must be of a similar size, in any case not significantly smaller, than the diameter of the through hole 12.
  • Fig. 8 is an exploded perspective view of a first closure member 34, a second closure member 36 and a final decorative member 38 that receive the support element 10.
  • the first and second closure members 34, 36 are constructed essentially like a jewelry member 2.
  • the closure links 34, 36 have the same material as the decorative links 2, 38.
  • the closure members 34, 36 have a first and a second locking hollow pin 40, 42, which extends outwards from the front surface 22 of the first and second closure members 34, 36 in the arrangement direction A.
  • the locking hollow pins 40, 42 are preferably (material) integrally connected to the closure members 34, 36.
  • the through hole 12 of the first or second locking member 34, 36 continues in the first or second locking hollow pin 40, 42.
  • the first locking hollow pin 40 of the first closure member 34 is designed to be inserted into the through hole 12 of the second closure member 36.
  • the second locking hollow pin 42 of the second closure member 36 is designed to be inserted into the through hole 12 of the last decorative member 38.
  • the diameter of the locking hollow pins 40, 42 is dimensioned so that it is only slightly smaller than the diameter of the through channel 12. The locking hollow pins 40, 42 can therefore be inserted into the through hole.
  • the first locking hollow pin 34 has a first transverse bore 44.
  • the second locking hollow pin 36 has a second transverse bore 46.
  • the first and second closure members 34, 36 differ from each other in that the second closure member 36 has a transverse bore 48 which is arranged transversely to the through hole 12 and breaks through the longitudinal surfaces 24, 25 of the second closure member 36.
  • the second closure member 36 in contrast to the first closure member 34, has no locking lugs 18. If the first and second closure members 34, 36 are connected to one another, the first connecting hollow pin 40 of the first closure member 34 is inserted into the through hole 12 of the second closure member 36. In this state, the first transverse bore 44 is aligned with the transverse bore 48 in the second closure member 36. In this state, the first closure member 34 and the second closure member 36 can be coupled by means of a first locking pin 50 inserted into the aligned transverse bores 44, 48.
  • the last decorative link 38 differs from a normal decorative link 2 in that it has a transverse bore 52 which is arranged transversely to the through hole 12 and breaks through the longitudinal surfaces 24, 25 of the last decorative link 38.
  • the last decorative link 38 in contrast to the other decorative links 2, does not have any locking lugs 18. If the second closure member 36 and the last jewelry member 38 are connected to one another, the second connecting hollow pin 42 of the second closure member 36 is inserted into the through hole 12 of the last jewelry member 38. In this state, the second transverse bore 46 is aligned with the transverse bore 52 in the last decorative link 38. In this state, the second closure link 36 and the last decorative link 38 can be coupled by means of a second locking pin 54 inserted into the aligned transverse bores 46, 52.
  • the first and second locking pins 50, 54 are optimally made of the same material as the first and second locking members 34, 36.
  • the arrows E indicate the direction in which the locking pins 50, 54 are used to couple the locking members 34, 38 of the last Decorative link 38 and the ends of the support element 10 are inserted.
  • Fig. 8 shown that the closure members 34, 36 and the last decorative member 38 accommodate the support element 10.
  • the locking tongues 14 of the first decorative link 2 are bent inwards or towards each other, starting from their initial state. Then the locking tongues 14 of the first jewelry link 2 are inserted into the through hole 12 of the first closure member 34, so that the elongated holes 16 of the locking tongues 14 of the first jewelry link 2 are aligned with the locking lugs 18 of the first closure member 18. Then the bending mandrel 32 is inserted into the through hole 12 of the first decorative link 2 in the direction of the first closure link 34. The locking tongues 14 of the first jewelry link 2 are then plastically bent outwards or apart into their initial state with the aid of the bending mandrel 32, so that the locking tongues 14 engage with the respective locking lugs 18. Then this process is repeated with the second jewelry link 2 and another jewelry link 2 until the arrangement has the desired number of jewelry links 2.
  • the support element 10 is then inserted from the side of the first closure member 34 into its through hole 12 and into the through holes 12 of all jewelry members 2 up to and including the jewelry member 2. Then the second closure member 36 is coupled to the last jewelry link 38 using the second locking pin 52. At the same time, the last jewelry link 38 is coupled to the second end of the support element 10 in the manner described above using the second locking pin 52.
  • the second locking pin 52 can be connected to the last decorative link 38 in a materially bonded manner, in particular by laser welding.
  • the support element 10 is temporarily fixed with the first locking hollow pin 40 of the first closure member 34 under elastic prestress.
  • the free front surface of the first locking hollow pin 40 can be connected to the first end of the support element 10 in a materially bonded manner, in particular by applying the material from which the closure member or the decorative members are made, to form the connection point 56.
  • the first locking member 34 is then coupled to the second locking member 36 and to the first end of the support member 10 using the first locking pin 50 in the manner described above.
  • the support element 10 is coupled to the first closure member 34 in such a way that the adjacent closure members 34, 36 and decorative members 2, 38 are elastically biased against one another in the arrangement direction. If the support element 10 is a spring, the first locking pin 50 can sit between two spring coils (the same applies to the second locking pin 54).
  • the first locking pin 50 can be connected to the second closure member 36 in a materially bonded manner, in particular by laser welding.
  • jewelry elements 6 can be fixed via the receiving sections 4 of the jewelry members 2, the last jewelry member 38 and the first and second closure members 34, 36.
  • Fig. 9A is a side view of a jewelry link assembly 1 with a number x of jewelry links 2.
  • the jewelry link assembly 1 is here in the relaxed state shown. In the relaxed state, the front surface 22 of each jewelry link 2 is in flat contact with the rear surface 23 of an adjacent jewelry link 2.
  • Fig. 9B is a side view of the jewelry link composite 1, starting from Fig. 9A was spread out or expanded. As a result of the spreading, the diameter of the jewelry link assembly 1 increases. In the expanded state, the front surface 22 of a jewelry link 2 and the rear surface 23 of an adjacent jewelry link 2 no longer touch each other, but are spaced apart from one another.
  • Fig. 9C is a side view of a jewelry link assembly 1 with a number y of jewelry links 2.
  • the number y of jewelry links 2 is the in Fig. 9C shown jewelry link assembly 1 is greater than the number x of jewelry links 2 of the in Fig. 9A shown jewelry link assembly 1.
  • the degree of inclination/curvature of the locking tongues 14 of the jewelry links 2 of the jewelry link assembly must be 1 in Fig. 9A be larger than that of the jewelry links 2 of the jewelry link assembly 1 in Fig. 9C .
  • Fig. 9D is a side view of the jewelry link composite 1, starting from Fig. 9C was spread out or expanded. As a result of the spreading, the diameter of the jewelry link assembly 1 increases.
  • Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a multi-row jewelry link assembly 1.
  • jewelry links 2 are lined up in a transverse direction (i.e. transverse to the arrangement direction) and connected to one another, in particular in a materially bonded manner.
  • the decorative links 2 are connected to one another in one piece in the transverse direction.
  • two pairs of connecting pins 14 extend outwards in the arrangement direction. This ensures that the jewelry links 2 can be securely (formally) connected to one another in the direction of arrangement.
  • the method for assembling a single-row jewelry link assembly 1, as above has been described, is equivalently applicable to a multi-row jewelry link assembly 1.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) avec une pluralité d'éléments de joaillerie (2) pouvant être couplés les uns aux autres par complémentarité de formes, de préférence avec un corps d'élément de joaillerie plastiquement déformable, dans lequel chacun de la pluralité d'éléments de joaillerie (2) présentent un trou traversant (12) s'étendant dans la direction d'agencement (A) des éléments de joaillerie (2) pour recevoir un élément de support (10), de préférence élastique, s'étendant à travers plusieurs éléments de joaillerie (2), de préférence tous,
    caractérisé en ce que
    la pluralité d'éléments de joaillerie (2) présentent respectivement au moins deux languettes de verrouillage (14) disposées à proximité du trou traversant (12), en particulier au niveau du corps d'élément de joaillerie, et faisant saillie dans la direction d'agencement (A) avec des trous oblongs (16) s'étendant dans la direction d'agencement (A) et présente au niveau des flancs intérieurs du trou traversant (12) au moins deux nez de verrouillage (18) faisant saillie vers l'intérieur ; et
    les languettes de verrouillage (14) d'un élément de joaillerie (2), de préférence dans un état plastiquement incurvé l'une par rapport à l'autre, sont insérées dans le trou traversant (12) d'un autre élément de joaillerie (2) et peuvent être mises en prise par complémentarité de formes, mais avec un certain jeu dans la direction d'agencement (A) avec les nez de verrouillage (18) de l'autre élément de joaillerie (2), de préférence dans un état plastiquement déplié.
  2. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon la revendication 1 avec l'élément de support, de préférence élastique, guidé à travers les trous traversants des éléments de joaillerie (2), de préférence un ressort, qui tend les éléments de joaillerie (2) adjacents de manière plane les uns contre les autres, dans lequel la longueur ou le diamètre du composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) peut être augmenté(e) par étirement de l'élément de support (10) élastique.
  3. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que les languettes de verrouillage (14) d'un élément de joaillerie (2) sont conçues de telle manière qu'elles peuvent être pliées plastiquement en les rapprochant ou en les éloignant.
  4. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que
    un premier maillon de fermeture (34) peut être couplé au premier élément de joaillerie (2) parmi la pluralité d'éléments de joaillerie (2) couplés les uns aux autres et un second maillon de fermeture (36) peut être couplé à un dernier élément de joaillerie (38) qui est couplé avec un élément de joaillerie (2) précédent et qui diffère des éléments de joaillerie (2) en ce qu'il présente deux alésages transversaux (52) au lieu des deux nez de verrouillage (18) ; et
    les maillons de fermeture (34, 36) peuvent être couplés les uns aux autres pour pouvoir relier les éléments de joaillerie (2, 38) couplés les uns aux autres à un anneau fermé ou à une bague fermée, dans lequel de préférence chaque maillon de fermeture (34, 36) présente respectivement un alésage transversal (42, 48) qui sont alignés les uns avec les autres dans le composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) couplé à l'anneau fermé et dans lesquels un élément de fermeture (50) est introduit.
  5. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que
    les deux maillons de fermeture (34, 36) peuvent être couplés l'un à l'autre sans jeu dans la direction d'agencement (A) ;
    chaque maillon de fermeture (34, 36) présente un trou traversant (12) pour recevoir l'élément de support (10) ; et
    les deux extrémités ou le point de séparation de l'élément de support (10) peut(peuvent) être disposé(es) à l'intérieur des deux maillons de fermeture (34, 36).
  6. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que
    une première extrémité de l'élément de support (10) peut être couplée au premier maillon de fermeture (34) au moyen d'une première tige de verrouillage (50) qui peut être enfichée à travers un alésage transversal (48) coupant le trou traversant (12) du second maillon de fermeture (36) ; et/ou
    une seconde extrémité de l'élément de support (10) peut être couplée au dernier élément de joaillerie (38) au moyen d'une seconde tige de verrouillage (54) qui peut être enfichée à travers un alésage transversal (52) coupant le trou traversant (12) du dernier élément de joaillerie (38).
  7. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon la revendication 4 ou 5, caractérisé en ce que
    le premier maillon de fermeture (34) présente un premier tourillon creux de verrouillage (40) faisant saillie dans la direction d'agencement (A) pour l'introduction du second maillon de fermeture (36) dans le trou traversant (12) et le second maillon de fermeture (36) présente un second tourillon creux de verrouillage (42) faisant saillie dans la direction d'agencement (A) pour l'introduction du dernier élément de joaillerie (38) dans le trou traversant (12),
    le premier tourillon creux de verrouillage (40) présente un alésage transversal (44) qui est aligné avec un alésage transversal (48) dans le second maillon de fermeture (36) lorsque le premier tourillon creux de verrouillage (40) est inséré dans le trou traversant (12) du second maillon de fermeture (36), et le premier maillon de fermeture (34) et le second maillon de fermeture (36) peuvent être couplés au moyen d'une première tige de verrouillage (50) enfichée dans les alésages transversaux (44, 48) alignés,
    le second tourillon creux de verrouillage (42) présente un alésage transversal (46) qui est aligné avec un alésage transversal (52) dans le dernier élément de joaillerie (38) lorsque le second tourillon creux de verrouillage (42) est inséré dans le trou traversant (12) du dernier élément de joaillerie (38), et le second maillon de fermeture (36) et le dernier élément de joaillerie (38) peuvent être couplés au moyen d'une seconde tige de verrouillage (54) enfichée dans les alésages transversaux (46, 52) alignés.
  8. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon les revendications 6 et 7, caractérisé en ce que
    avec la première tige de verrouillage (50), aussi bien la première extrémité de l'élément de support (10) que le second maillon de fermeture (36) peut être couplé(e) au premier maillon de fermeture (34) ; et/ou
    avec la seconde tige de verrouillage (54), aussi bien l'autre extrémité de l'élément de support (10) que le dernier élément de joaillerie (38) peut être couplé(e) au second maillon de fermeture (36).
  9. Composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins deux éléments de joaillerie (2) sont reliés l'un à l'autre, de manière fixe, en particulier par liaison de matière, transversalement à la direction d'agencement (A), pour former un composite à plusieurs rangées.
  10. Élément de joaillerie (2) pour un composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes qui présente un trou traversant (12) s'étendant dans la direction d'agencement (A) des éléments de joaillerie (2) pour recevoir un élément de support (10), de préférence élastique, s'étendant à travers l'élément de joaillerie (2),
    caractérisé en ce que
    l'élément de joaillerie (2) présente au moins deux languettes de verrouillage (14) disposées à proximité du trou traversant (12) et faisant saillie dans la direction d'agencement (A) avec des trous oblongs (16) s'étendant dans la direction d'agencement (A) et présente au niveau des flancs intérieurs du trou traversant (12) au moins deux nez de verrouillage (18) faisant saillie vers l'intérieur ; et
    les languettes de verrouillage (14) sont insérées dans le trou traversant (12) d'un autre élément de joaillerie (2) identique ou compatible et peuvent être mises en prise par complémentarité de formes, mais avec un certain jeu dans la direction d'agencement (A), avec les nez de verrouillage (18) de l'autre élément de joaillerie (2).
  11. Procédé de fabrication d'un composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 9, comprenant les étapes suivantes qui se déroulent dans l'ordre indiqué ici :
    a) Plier les languettes de verrouillage (14) du premier élément de joaillerie (2) à partir de leur état initial vers l'intérieur ou l'une par rapport à l'autre ;
    b) Insérer les languettes de verrouillage (14) du premier élément de joaillerie (2) dans le trou traversant (12) du premier maillon de fermeture (34), de sorte que les trous oblongs (16) des languettes de verrouillage (14) du premier élément de joaillerie (2) soient alignés avec les nez de verrouillage (18) du premier maillon de fermeture (34) ;
    c) Plier les languettes de verrouillage (14) du premier élément de joaillerie (2) vers l'extérieur ou en les séparant dans leur état initial, de sorte que les languettes de verrouillage (14) entrent en prise avec les nez de verrouillage (18) respectifs ; et
    d) Répéter les étapes a) à c) pour au moins un autre élément de joaillerie (2) avec l'élément de joaillerie (2) précédent, dans lequel l'élément de joaillerie (38) est choisi comme élément de joaillerie le plus en arrière du composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1).
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que l'étape c) présente les étapes suivantes :
    c1) Insérer un mandrin de pliage (32) dans le trou traversant (12) du premier élément de joaillerie (2) dans la direction du premier maillon de fermeture (34) ; et
    c2) Déformer plastiquement les languettes de verrouillage (14) radialement vers l'extérieur par insertion du mandrin de pliage (32).
  13. Procédé de fabrication d'un composite pour éléments de joaillerie (1) selon la revendication 11 ou 12 qui comprend en outre les étapes consistant à :
    e) Insérer l'élément de support (10) par le côté du premier maillon de fermeture (34) jusqu'au dernier maillon de joaillerie (38) ;
    f) Coupler le second maillon de fermeture (36) au dernier élément de joaillerie (38) et le dernier élément de joaillerie (38) à la seconde extrémité de l'élément de support (10) ; et
    g) Coupler le premier maillon de fermeture (34) au second maillon de fermeture (36) et la première extrémité de l'élément de support (10) au premier maillon de fermeture (34) sous une précontrainte élastique, de sorte que des maillons de fermeture (34, 36) adjacents et des éléments de joaillerie (2, 38) soient soumis à une précontrainte élastique l'un contre l'autre dans la direction d'agencement (A), et de préférence
    h) Placer des composants de joaillerie (6) dans des sections de réception (4) des éléments de joaillerie (2, 38) et des maillons de fermeture (34, 36).
  14. Procédé selon la revendication 13, caractérisé en ce que l'étape f) présente les étapes suivantes :
    f1) Enficher une second tige de verrouillage (54) dans un alésage transversal (52) dans le dernier élément de joaillerie (38), un alésage transversal (46) aligné avec celui-ci dans un second tourillon creux de verrouillage (42) du second maillon de fermeture (36) et à travers l'élément de support (10) se trouvant dans le trou traversant (12) du second maillon de fermeture (36) ; et
    f2) Relier de manière affleurante et par liaison de matière des deux côtés, en particulier souder au laser, la seconde tige de verrouillage (54) au dernier maillon de joaillerie (38).
  15. Procédé selon la revendication 13 ou 14, caractérisé en ce que l'étape g) présente les étapes suivantes :
    g1) Fixer provisoirement l'élément de support (10) au tourillon creux de verrouillage (40) du premier maillon de fermeture (34) sous précontrainte élastique ;
    g2) Enficher une première tige de verrouillage (50) dans un alésage transversal (48) dans le second maillon de fermeture (36), un alésage transversal (44) aligné avec celui-ci dans un premier tourillon creux de verrouillage (40) du premier maillon de fermeture (34) et à travers l'élément de support (10) se trouvant dans le trou traversant (12) du premier maillon de fermeture (34) ; et
    g3) Relier de manière affleurante et par liaison de matière des deux côtés, en particulier souder au laser, la première tige de verrouillage (50) au second maillon de fermeture (38).
EP22167524.2A 2021-04-12 2022-04-11 Composite pour éléments de joaillerie Active EP4074210B1 (fr)

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DE102021109031.8A DE102021109031A1 (de) 2021-04-12 2021-04-12 Schmuckgliederverbund

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US20230189945A1 (en) * 2020-05-06 2023-06-22 Giuseppe TROISI Wearable decorative element

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DE4104339A1 (de) 1991-02-13 1992-08-20 Swarovski & Co Kettenglied fuer schmucksteine, daraus bestehende schmuckkette und verfahren zu deren herstellung
US20160345690A1 (en) * 2015-05-28 2016-12-01 Picchiotti S.r.l. Extensible Bracelet
IT201600132708A1 (it) 2016-12-30 2018-06-30 Roberto Demeglio S P A Articolo di gioielleria comprendente un elemento elastico e una pluralità di elementi ornamentali infilati in successione sull'elemento elastico in modo da potere scorrere rispetto a questo e connessi a due a due l'uno con l'altro.
US10271619B1 (en) 2017-05-24 2019-04-30 Keven Peck Flexible ring structure for jewelry

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ES2965210T3 (es) 2024-04-11

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