EP3856132A1 - Reduzierte haarschädigung während der blondierung durch einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren komplexbildner - Google Patents
Reduzierte haarschädigung während der blondierung durch einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren komplexbildnerInfo
- Publication number
- EP3856132A1 EP3856132A1 EP19765428.8A EP19765428A EP3856132A1 EP 3856132 A1 EP3856132 A1 EP 3856132A1 EP 19765428 A EP19765428 A EP 19765428A EP 3856132 A1 EP3856132 A1 EP 3856132A1
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- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- agent
- cosmetic
- cosmetic agent
- salt
- weight
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to cosmetic agents for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a multicomponent unit for the oxidative brightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the cosmetic agent according to the invention as the first component and an agent comprising H 2 O 2 as the second component. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid in a cosmetic agent.
- the change in hair color represents an important area of modern cosmetics.
- the appearance of the hair can be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual.
- decorative cosmetics especially bleaching or coloring hair cosmetics
- bleaching and hair coloring systems are available to the consumer, which are extremely effective but can damage the hair and are being discussed with regard to environmental aspects.
- the reactions that cause a bleaching or coloring effect have been known for a long time: the oxidizing agents contained in bleaching agents are able to lighten the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's own dye melanin.
- the use of hydrogen peroxide - if appropriate using ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidizing agent alone is sufficient; to achieve a stronger bleaching effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts and / or peroxomonosulfate salts is usually used.
- aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions are unstable at the alkaline pH values required for the application, so that commercially available oxidative bleaching and dyeing products generally consist of at least two components.
- the first component is an acidic oxidizing agent preparation with hydrogen peroxide, which is mixed with an alkaline second component shortly before use.
- oxidation dyes are used for permanent dyeing, which are usually in two parts.
- an alkaline preparation of so-called oxidation dye precursors (OFV) is used, which contains so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes with each other under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide.
- the second part of the oxidizing agent preparation which is often also referred to as developer, contains at least water and hydrogen peroxide and is acidified for reasons of stability.
- the acidic oxidizer preparation is mixed with the alkaline first part shortly before use. This application mixture is applied to the hair, remains there for a short time and is then rinsed out. During this time, the oxidation dye precursors (OFV) react with one another under the influence of hydrogen peroxide to form oligomers, the desired hair color being formed.
- the described processes for oxidative bleaching or lightening or for oxidative coloring attack the hair structure or destroy parts of the hair structure.
- the users of the cosmetic products are unsure to what extent the mechanical resilience is reduced and the surface of the hair becomes rough, so that shine is prevented and the brittleness of the hair is increased.
- the hair or components of the cosmetic compositions come into contact with water.
- the water used contains a lot of calcium and magnesium ions as well as a small amount of copper and iron ions. To a small extent, the smallest amounts of copper or iron components can also be present in the hair by washing the hair beforehand.
- the metallic components can react with peroxides under alkaline conditions during an oxidative hair treatment and reactive oxygen species (ROS) can be formed. These ROS react with the hair proteins, which can lead to hair damage. In order to suppress these undesirable processes, complexing agents are added to the cosmetic agents.
- ROS reactive oxygen species
- EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetate
- a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent , wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a poly-hydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are used for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers.
- the term “oxidative treatment” essentially means oxidative color changes. These are achieved by bleaching agents and also agents for lightening the keratin fibers.
- the cosmetic agent comprises an oxidizing agent which comprises a salt of a peroxo compound, preferably a persulfate or If a bleaching or lightening is to be carried out, the agents do not contain any further dyes, but it may also be desirable to add keratin fibers in addition to the bleaching / lightening.
- the cosmetic agents according to the invention can be used for shading purposes additionally also contain coloring components such as direct dyes and / or oxidation dye precursors, however the preferred use of the agents is bleaching or lightening.
- Keratin fibers are wool, furs, feathers and in particular human hair.
- the colorants according to the invention can also be used for dyeing other natural fibers, such as, for. As cotton, jute, sisal, linen or silk, modified natural fibers such as regenerated cellulose, nitro, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl or acetyl cellulose can be used.
- the cosmetic agent contains an alkalizing agent which serves to adjust the alkaline pH of the cosmetic agent.
- the cosmetic composition is composed such that the ready-to-use composition, which is obtained by mixing with water, has an alkaline pH.
- the cosmetic agent contains an alkalizing agent.
- cystine bridges in the keratin fiber are oxidatively broken down.
- the disulfide groups of the cystine are cleaved oxidatively and converted into sulfonic acid units.
- the cystine linking the various peptide strands is oxidized to two discrete, ie no longer bridged, cysteic acid units. Ie if the hair is damaged, the Cysteine content in the hair too.
- the complexing agent comprising a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms can reduce the damage to the hair. This beneficial effect can be measured by determining the cysteine content in the hair.
- a cosmetic agent according to the invention shows a lower cysteine content in the hair when using a salt of a poly hydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms than is found when using the branded product "Fibreplex technique".
- the lightening effect (L value , see examples) hardly changed by using the new formulation compared to the branded product "Fibreplex”.
- the color difference between hair that has been treated with a cosmetic product according to the invention and hair that has been treated with the branded product is less than 2 (see examples), i.e. a difference that is usually not recognized by an untrained observer.
- a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid is to be understood as meaning carboxylic acids which have a carboxylic acid function and have at least two OH groups.
- the monocarboxylic acid preferably comprises those which have an OH group on each non-carboxyl carbon.
- the salt of gluconic acid, the salt of arabic acid and / or the salt of 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid are preferably used as complexing agents.
- the advantage of polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids is that the substances are easily biodegradable.
- the counterions used are physiologically acceptable counterions.
- the salts of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids thus preferably comprise physiologically acceptable counterions.
- Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cations or ammonium ions are thus preferably used as counterions of the carboxylates.
- the salt is more preferred polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid is a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, most preferably the salt of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid is sodium gluconate.
- the complexing agent used in the cosmetic agent according to the invention is a substitute for the ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) used in conventional agents.
- EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetate
- the complexing agent in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. In these quantity ranges, the complexing agent is a powerful replacement for the conventional complexing agents.
- the cosmetic agent contains one or more peroxo compounds, preferably a percarbonate and / or a persulfate.
- the cosmetic agent comprises an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt.
- the salts of the peroxo compounds thus comprise percarbonates and / or per sulfates with an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion as counter ion.
- the cosmetic agent comprises ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate. It has also proven to be advantageous if the cosmetic composition contains at least two persulfates from the group consisting of ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. Therefore, the cosmetic agent more preferably contains a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate. It is very particularly preferred if the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains all three persulfates - ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
- Ammonium peroxodisulfate is alternatively also available as Ammonium persulfate denotes and has the molecular formula (N ⁇ SzOs. Ammonium persulfate has the CAS number 7727-54-0. Potassium peroxodisulfate is alternatively also called potassium persulfate and has the molecular formula K2S2O8. Potassium persulfate has the CAS number 7727-21-1. Sodium peroxodisulfate is alternatively referred to as sodium persulfate and has the empirical formula Na 2 S 2 0g.Sodium persulfate has the CAS number
- the persulphates are also preferably used in certain total amounts in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in order to optimize both the lightening performance and to minimize hair damage.
- potassium peroxodisulfate is present in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition Funds used.
- the ammonium peroxodisulfate is present in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product the cosmetic agent used.
- the alkalizing agent is a hydroxide, carbonate, hydrogen carbonate, hydroxy carbonate, silicate or metasilicate of an alkali or alkaline earth metal or the corresponding ammonium salt.
- the alkalizing agent is preferably an alkali or alkaline earth metal silicate, the preferred sodium silicate, potassium silicate or a mixture of sodium silicate and potassium silicate. More preferably, the alkalizing agent can be a hydrated sodium silicate. It is a water-soluble sodium silicate with a Na 2 0: Si0 2 molar ratio of 1: 2 to 1: 3, more preferably 1: 2.5 to 1: 2.8.
- An inventively particularly suitable hydrated sodium silicate is commercially available under the name Britesil® ® C 265 (PQ. Corporation).
- the cosmetic agent contains the alkalizing agent in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, preferably 30 to 45% by weight, more preferably 35 to 43% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic composition is preferably composed such that the ready-to-use cosmetic composition, which is obtained by mixing with water, has an alkaline pH. If the cosmetic agent is intended to be used with a second component comprising H 2 0 2 or comprising an developer component / coupler component, the ready-to-use cosmetic agent is obtained by mixing the cosmetic agent with the component comprising H 2 0 2 or by mixing the cosmetic agent is mixed with the developer or coupler component.
- the ready-to-use cosmetic agent preferably has a pH of 8 to 12, particularly preferably a pH of 8.5 to 11.5, most preferably a pH of 9 to 11, in each case measured at 20 ° C. For the measurement, the cosmetic agent is suspended in a double amount of water and the pH is measured with a commercially available pH meter at the specified temperature.
- the cosmetic agent is in the form of a single component, which only has to be mixed with water to produce the ready-to-use cosmetic agent. Mixing with a second, separately packaged preparation can be omitted in this way.
- hydrogen peroxide or “active oxygen”
- the cosmetic agent itself is essentially water-free and contains thus less than 10.0% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 2% by weight of water.
- the water content can be determined by the raw materials used for the cosmetic agent according to the invention.
- Various raw materials can contain small amounts of water, for example if they are used in emulsion form, contain water of crystallization or water as a secondary component is present.
- the bleaching composition further contains a dispersing copolymer based on acrylates, the dispersing copolymer preferably comprising a copolymer comprising one or more acrylic acid or methacrylic acid units, the dispersing copolymer preferably being a methacrylic acid / methyl (meth ) acrylate copolymer or an acrylic acid / methyl (meth) acrylate copolymer.
- a particularly preferred, commercially available product is Degalan RG S hv.
- the cosmetic agent is to be converted into a ready-to-use agent by mixing it with water.
- the cosmetic agent further contains a thickener.
- the ready-to-use cosmetic agent preferably has a viscosity of 5 to 100 Pa-s, preferably 10 to 50 Pa-s, in particular 10 to 20 Pa-s and particularly preferably 10 to 16 Pa-s (Brookfield, 22 ° C. , US spindle, 4 rpm).
- Inorganic and organic substances are suitable as thickeners or gel formers.
- thickeners should largely be present in the cosmetic as a free-flowing powder, on the other hand they should increase the viscosity of the ready-to-use cosmetic in a user-friendly area in the ready-to-use cosmetic as soon as possible after mixing with water.
- the thickener is therefore preferably selected from the group consisting of a carboxymethyl cellulose, its Na salt and hydroxymethyl cellulose.
- Carboxymethyl cellulose for example Cekol ® 50000 from CP Kelco (INCI: Cellulose Gum)
- a combination of carboxymethyl cellulose with a methacrylic acid / methyl methacrylate copolymer for example Rohagit ® S hv ex Evonik (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer) or a combination of carboxymethyl cellulose with
- the thickeners selected above or in particular the commercially available thickeners mentioned have proven to be most advantageous in this regard.
- the thickener is preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 5% by weight. %, most preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, in the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can contain further auxiliaries, additives and / or additives.
- the cosmetic compositions can contain fillers.
- a suitable filler is magnesium carbonate.
- the cosmetic agents can contain auxiliaries which suppress the dust formation of the cosmetic agents. Coals are suitable in this regard.
- a second subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent unit for the oxidative brightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising as a first component a cosmetic agent according to the first subject of the invention and as second component an agent comprising H2O2.
- the multi-component unit comprises at least two components.
- the first component is the cosmetic agent according to the invention.
- the second component is an agent that contains H2O2.
- the bleaching effect of the multicomponent unit according to the invention is higher than that of the cosmetic agent according to the invention when it is used as the only component.
- the cosmetic agent is in the form of a single component, however, a higher bleaching effect may be desired by the user.
- the separation into two components serves the stability of H2O2 with a high bleaching effect.
- the multicomponent unit also has the advantage of using the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids.
- a third subject matter of the invention is therefore a multicomponent unit for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising as the first component a cosmetic agent according to the first subject matter of the invention and as second component an oxidation dye precursor, which is preferably selected from one or more developer components and optionally one or more coupler components.
- the multi-component unit comprises at least two components.
- the first component is the cosmetic agent according to the invention.
- the second component is an agent containing an oxidation dye precursor.
- This multi-component unit is advantageously suitable for dyeing the keratin fibers.
- the cosmetic agent is in the form of a single component, but a color shade may be desired by the user.
- the separation into two components serves the stability of components of the oxidation dye precursor.
- the multicomponent unit also has the advantage of using the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids.
- a fourth subject matter of the invention is therefore the use of a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid having 4, 5 or 6 C atoms, in particular the use of sodium gluconate, as a complexing agent in one cosmetic products.
- the use of polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids is particularly suitable as a complexing agent in a cosmetic agent since there is good biodegradability and since there is not a particularly great difference in the affinity for iron or copper ions compared to the affinity for magnesium or calcium ions.
- the salts of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids having 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms are used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention or in a multi-component unit according to the invention.
- the cosmetic agent according to the invention is more preferably one for the oxidative treatment of human hair, more preferably one for the oxidative dyeing or one for the oxidative brightening of human hair, or more preferably the multi-component unit according to the invention is one for the oxidative treatment of human hair, more preferably one for the oxidative dyeing or one for the oxidative brightening of human hair Hair.
- Cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least one of the following embodiments A) to J):
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkali agent and at least one complexing agent, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which is a gluconate with a physiological acceptable counterion, the cosmetic being devoid of ethylenediamine tetraacetate.
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, the complexing agent in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent contained in the cosmetic agent.
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably is a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, and wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
- the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably is a mixture of potassium perox
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, and the ammonium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent in which the cosmetic agent is contained, and wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, the complexing agent in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight , preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably is a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, the alkalizing agent being a water-soluble sodium silicate with a Na 2 0: Si0 2 molar ratio of 1: 2 to 1: 3, more preferably 1: 2.5 to 1: 2.8 more preferred is a sodium or potassium disilicate, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
- the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic pe
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight %, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, and the ammonium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15 %
- the alkalizing agent being a water-soluble sodium silicate with a molar ratio Na 2 0: Si0 2 from 1: 2 to 1: 3, more preferably from 1: 2.5 to 1: 2.8, more preferably a sodium or potassium disilicate, which is in an amount of 25
- the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid, which is a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, the complexing agent in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in which cosmetic agent is contained.
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 20 to 50 % By weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, and the ammonium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in the cosmetic agent, the alkalizing agent being present in the cosmetic agent in an amount such that the pH of the cosmetic agent is between 8 and 12, preferably between 8.5 and 11.5, and more preferably between 9 and 11, when the cosmetic is brought into its ready-to-use form, and de r complexing agent is a salt of a
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one Alkalizing agent, at least one thickener and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, the group consisting of the thickener being selected from a carboxymethyl cellulose, its Na salt and hydroxymethyl cellulose, and the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a gluconate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
- the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate,
- Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one thickener, at least one dispersing copolymer based on acrylates and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt , preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, wherein the thickener is selected from the group consisting of a carboxymethyl cellulose, its Na salt and hydroxymethyl cellulose, with the dispersing copolymer / methyl preferably a methacrylic acid (meth) acrylate copolymer or an acrylic acid / methyl (meth) acrylate copolymer, and wherein the complexing
- the amounts add up to 100% by weight.
- the cosmetic compositions of these embodiments may contain auxiliaries, additives and / or additives.
- the cosmetic agents can contain fillers, so that the total amount adds up to 100% by weight.
- the bleaching powder according to Example 1 above and a bleaching powder from the Fibreplex series were mixed in a ratio of 1: 2 with hydrogen peroxide (1 part by weight of bleaching powder with 2 parts by weight of hydrogen peroxide).
- the ready-to-use bleaching agents obtained in this way were each applied to strands of hair (Kerling euro-natur 7-0 from Fischbach & Miller, light brown) and left to act for 45 minutes. Then the hair strands were washed out with a commercially available shampoo and water.
- Each strand of hair was measured colorimetrically before and after bleaching (spectrophotometer type Spectraflash 450 from X-right, type exact).
- the color difference (DE value) was determined from the Lab values obtained during the measurements.
- the DE value used for the assessment of the color intensity results from the L * a * b * color measurement values as follows:
- the DE value indicates the color difference that exists between the untreated and the treated strand of hair.
- the greater the DE value the greater the color difference (i.e. the color difference) between the undyed and the colored skin and the stronger the bleaching performance.
- the color difference between hair treated with a cosmetic product according to the invention (Example 1) and hair treated with the branded product is less than 2, i.e. a difference that is usually not recognized by an untrained observer.
- the cysteic acid content of keratin fibers or strands of hair can be determined using near infrared spectroscopy (NIR spectroscopy).
- NIR spectroscopy allows the direct quantification of the cysteic acid content without changing or destroying the structure of the hair by analysis (see also Y. Miyamae et al. IFSCC Magazine, 9, 219 (2006) and Y. Miyamae et al ., Appl. Spectroscopy, 61, (2) 212 (2007)).
- the hair is irradiated with infrared radiation (heat radiation in the near infrared range). In this way, not only the surface of the hair is analyzed, but the NIR radiation also penetrates the hair due to the small absorption cross section.
- Fig. 1 shows the breaking stress measured using the composition containing sodium gluconate compared to the breaking stress measured using the FiberPlex composition.
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Abstract
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Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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DE102018123526.7A DE102018123526A1 (de) | 2018-09-25 | 2018-09-25 | Reduzierte Haarschädigung während der Blondierung durch Einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren Komplexbildner |
PCT/EP2019/073352 WO2020064269A1 (de) | 2018-09-25 | 2019-09-02 | Reduzierte haarschädigung während der blondierung durch einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren komplexbildner |
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EP3856132A1 true EP3856132A1 (de) | 2021-08-04 |
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EP19765428.8A Pending EP3856132A1 (de) | 2018-09-25 | 2019-09-02 | Reduzierte haarschädigung während der blondierung durch einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren komplexbildner |
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US (1) | US11426335B2 (de) |
EP (1) | EP3856132A1 (de) |
JP (1) | JP2022502503A (de) |
CN (1) | CN112752563A (de) |
DE (1) | DE102018123526A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2020064269A1 (de) |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US20020004957A1 (en) * | 1999-06-15 | 2002-01-17 | Teresita Vergara Imperial | One step method and compositions for simultaneously coloring and highlighting hair |
FR2820312B1 (fr) * | 2001-02-02 | 2003-05-02 | Oreal | Composition pulverulente pour la decoloration des fibres keratiniques humaines |
US6703004B2 (en) | 2002-04-03 | 2004-03-09 | Revlon Consumer Products Corporation | Method and compositions for bleaching hair |
FR2842100B1 (fr) * | 2002-07-12 | 2004-09-10 | Oreal | Pate anhydre pour la decoloration des fibres keratiniques humaines |
US7226486B2 (en) * | 2003-01-16 | 2007-06-05 | L'oreal S.A | Ready-to-use bleaching compositions, preparation process and bleaching process |
FR2852836B1 (fr) * | 2003-03-25 | 2008-02-15 | Oreal | Utilisation d'acides hydroxycarboxyliques et de leurs sels comme agents complexants dans des compositions reductrices pour la decoloration ou la deformation permanente de fibres keratiniques |
US20040253283A1 (en) * | 2003-03-25 | 2004-12-16 | L'oreal S.A. | Composition for treating keratinous materials, comprising a hydroxycarboxylic acid and a protective and/or conditioning agent |
FR2911268B1 (fr) * | 2007-01-15 | 2012-06-15 | Oreal | Composition pour la decoloration comprenant un ester liquide ramifie non volatile d'acide carboxylique a point de solification inferieur a 4°c |
WO2008152570A1 (en) * | 2007-06-15 | 2008-12-18 | The Procter & Gamble Company | A system for highlighting hair |
FR2917972B1 (fr) * | 2007-06-29 | 2009-10-16 | Oreal | Composition anhydre sous forme de pate pour la decoloration des fibres keratiniques |
FR2958155B1 (fr) * | 2010-04-02 | 2012-04-20 | Oreal | Composition de decoloration comprenant un sel peroxygene dans une base fortement riche en corps gras |
EP2387988B1 (de) * | 2010-05-19 | 2017-09-27 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Oxidierende Zusammensetzung zur Behandlung von Keratinfasern |
EP2471502A1 (de) * | 2010-12-28 | 2012-07-04 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Bleichzusammensetzung enthaltend eine Polyhydroxycarbonsäure |
WO2013167350A2 (en) * | 2012-05-08 | 2013-11-14 | Unilever N.V. | A method of colouring keratinous fibers |
AU2013339734B2 (en) * | 2012-11-05 | 2017-04-06 | Kao Corporation | Process for straightening and bleaching hair |
DE102013209098A1 (de) * | 2013-05-16 | 2014-11-20 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | transparente Blondiermittel mit Proteinen und/oder Silikonölen |
US20150059794A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-03-05 | Kao Corporation | Process for straightening the hair |
FR3016288B1 (fr) * | 2013-12-23 | 2016-09-09 | Oreal | Article de conditionnement comportant une enveloppe et une composition anhydre comprenant un agent oxydant |
-
2018
- 2018-09-25 DE DE102018123526.7A patent/DE102018123526A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
2019
- 2019-09-02 CN CN201980062404.4A patent/CN112752563A/zh active Pending
- 2019-09-02 EP EP19765428.8A patent/EP3856132A1/de active Pending
- 2019-09-02 WO PCT/EP2019/073352 patent/WO2020064269A1/de unknown
- 2019-09-02 JP JP2021540902A patent/JP2022502503A/ja active Pending
- 2019-09-02 US US17/279,464 patent/US11426335B2/en active Active
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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DE102018123526A1 (de) | 2020-03-26 |
US11426335B2 (en) | 2022-08-30 |
JP2022502503A (ja) | 2022-01-11 |
US20220031584A1 (en) | 2022-02-03 |
CN112752563A (zh) | 2021-05-04 |
WO2020064269A1 (de) | 2020-04-02 |
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