EP3479721B1 - Verfahren zum fassen eines steins - Google Patents

Verfahren zum fassen eines steins Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3479721B1
EP3479721B1 EP17200365.9A EP17200365A EP3479721B1 EP 3479721 B1 EP3479721 B1 EP 3479721B1 EP 17200365 A EP17200365 A EP 17200365A EP 3479721 B1 EP3479721 B1 EP 3479721B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
adhesive layer
girdle
hot
melt adhesive
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP17200365.9A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3479721A1 (de
Inventor
Stewes Bourban
Pascal Grossenbacher
Jean-Claude Martin
Vladislav Spassov
Cécile BARRON
Lionel BLASER
Yann Caloz
Cyrille GERNEZ
Stéphane Lauper
Ahmad Odeh
Simon Springer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Original Assignee
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP17200365.9A priority Critical patent/EP3479721B1/de
Priority to US16/141,370 priority patent/US10736389B2/en
Priority to JP2018201537A priority patent/JP6666977B2/ja
Priority to CN201811319395.6A priority patent/CN109744667B/zh
Publication of EP3479721A1 publication Critical patent/EP3479721A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3479721B1 publication Critical patent/EP3479721B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/003—3D structures, e.g. superposed patterned layers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
    • C25D5/02—Electroplating of selected surface areas
    • C25D5/022—Electroplating of selected surface areas using masking means
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
    • C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of assembling a stone on a fixing support, said stone being cut to present a table, a crown, a rondist and a cylinder head.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping on an element of a timepiece or jewelry item of a stone and of its fixing support obtained according to said assembly method.
  • the object of the present invention is to remedy this drawback by proposing a method of setting stones which makes it possible to overcome the inevitable dimensional variations encountered when natural stones, such as diamonds, are used.
  • the positioning of the stones by means of the hot-melt adhesive layer according to the method of the invention avoids having to first create housing of adequate size to receive the stones.
  • the method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to overcome the dimensional variations of the stones.
  • the invention also relates to a method of crimping a stone on an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprising the assembly of the stone and its fixing support obtained by the method as defined above on a kitten then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item or directly to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece or jewelry element comprising at least one stone assembled on its fixing support obtained according to the assembly method as defined above.
  • the present invention relates to a method of assembling a stone 1 on a fixing support 2, said stone 1 being cut to present a table 3, a crown 4, a rondist 5 and a cylinder head 6.
  • a stone is preferably a stone of natural origin, such as diamond or emerald, the dimensions of which can vary from one stone to another. It is obvious that the stone can be of any other nature, natural or synthetic, the method according to the invention can also be advantageously used for such stones.
  • the first step a) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in providing a substrate 8 comprising a hot-melt adhesive layer 10.
  • the substrate 8 is in the form of a plate, and is based on glass, ceramic, polymer, metal, silicon, quartz or any other support with a suitable flat surface.
  • the substrate 8 is a glass plate.
  • the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 is preferably a layer of glue soluble in hot water or a solvent, of the “hot melt” type, such as Crystalbond TM, Wafer-Mount TM glues or any other similar suitable mounting product.
  • the second step b) of the method of assembling the stone 1 on a fixing support 2 according to the invention consists in positioning the stone 1 on the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 of the substrate 8.
  • the stone 1 is positioned so that its table 3 is in contact with the adhesive layer 10, as shown in the figure 1 .
  • Several stones can thus be positioned on the substrate. The positioning of the stones can correspond to the desired final shape, for example a specific pattern.
  • the third step c) of the assembly method of the invention consists in heating the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 so that it is at least sufficiently softened to be able to sink the stones 1 into it.
  • the fourth step d) of the assembly method of the invention consists in exerting pressure on the stone 1 in order to be able to press, according to the variant shown here, only part of the crown 4 of the stone 1 into the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 sufficiently softened, so that the rest of the crown 4, the rondist 5 and the cylinder head 6 remain in the open air, as shown in the figure 2 .
  • the stone 1 is pushed in until its table 3 is in contact with the substrate 8, which makes it possible to ensure the flatness of the table 3.
  • Step b) can advantageously be implemented after step c) in particular when the stone 1 is positioned so that it is its cylinder head 6 which is partly embedded in the hot-melt adhesive layer which is sufficiently softened, leaving the open the rest of the stone, so that the rest of the cylinder head 6, the rondist 5 and the crown 4 remain in the open air.
  • the height of the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 is chosen so that the crown 4 (or the cylinder head 6, depending on the variant used) is almost entirely pressed into the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 and comes into contact with the substrate 8, only a part crown 4 (or cylinder head 6) of small thickness e (see Figure 2 ) being left in the open air under the rondist 5.
  • This part will include the zone 4a of the crown 4 (or the zone 6a of the cylinder head 6) contiguous to the rondist 5, as defined below.
  • the assembly obtained is allowed to cool so that the adhesive layer 10 solidifies and keeps the stone 1 on the substrate 8 without having had to form adequate housings in said substrate.
  • step e) by the positioning above the adhesive layer 10 (cooled and solidified) of a crimping sheet 12 cut around the stone 1 so as to form between the edge 14 of the crimping sheet 12 and said stone 1 a peripheral free space 16 at least at the level of the rondist 5, of a zone 4a of the crown 4 and of a zone 6b of the cylinder head 6 , said zones 4a and 6a being contiguous with the rondist 5.
  • the crimping sheet 12 is made of a conductive material, for example in a metallic material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
  • a metallic material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, palladium, copper, brass, and their alloys.
  • Step e) further comprises placing a lower insulating layer 18 between the adhesive layer 10 and the crimping sheet 12 and setting up an upper insulating layer 20 on the free surface of the sheet crimping 12, as shown in the figure 3 .
  • the insulating layers 18 and 20 are cut around the stone and are superimposed with the crimping sheet 12. They can for example be in the form of a sheet of organic material, such as polymers, resins, lacquers, etc. or are obtained for example by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition), CVD (Chemical Layer Deposition) or other similar methods, of dielectric thin layers of SiO 2 , Al 2 O 3 , TiO 2 , AlN, If 3 N 4 , etc.
  • PVD Physical Vapor Deposition
  • ALD Atomic Layer Deposition
  • CVD Chemical Layer Deposition
  • step f) of the method of the invention consists in depositing, by galvanic growth, in said peripheral free space 16, from the edge 14 of the crimping sheet 12, a metal layer 22 at least at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5 so as to trap said rondist 5 in said metallic layer 22, as shown in the figure 4 .
  • the stone 1 is now secured to the crimping sheet 12, the metal layer 22 in the continuity of the crimping sheet 12 forming with the said fixing support 2.
  • the zone 6a of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondiste 5 and the zone 4a of the crown 4 contiguous to the rondiste 5 extend only immediately on either side of the rondiste 5, over a thickness less than the thickness e of the part of the crown left in the open air, so as to form said metallic layer 22 between the stone 1 and the crimping sheet, only substantially around the rondist, that is to say at the level of the rondist 5 and only immediately on either side of said rondist 5.
  • the metal layer 22 is preferably made of a material chosen from the group comprising nickel, gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, copper and their alloys.
  • the electroforming conditions in particular the composition of the baths, the geometry of the system, the voltages and current densities, are chosen for each metal or alloy to be electrodeposited according to techniques well known in the art of electroforming (cf. . for example Di Bari GA "electroforming” Electroplating Engineering Handbook 4th Edition written by LJ Durney, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold Compagny Inc., NY USA 1984 ).
  • the following step g) consists in releasing the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 from the substrate 8.
  • This step g) is carried out for example by dissolving the hot-melt adhesive layer 10 in an organic solvent.
  • the insulating layers are removed by mechanical peeling, dissolution in organic solvents or etching by chemical agents.
  • a fixing support is obtained in the form of a plate comprising several stones 1 assembled to said plate, the stones being able to form a pattern.
  • the dimensions of the fixing support 2 are defined by the dimensions of the crimping sheet 12.
  • the thickness of the crimping sheet 12 is preferably chosen so that the metal layer 22 is deposited only substantially at the level of the rondist 5 and zones 4a, 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 which extend only immediately on either side of the rondist 5 as described above, so that the fixing support 2 is positioned substantially only around Rondist 5, as shown in the figure 5 .
  • the fixing support 2 projects slightly over the zones 4a and 6a respectively of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 contiguous to the rondist 5, but most of the crown 4 and of the cylinder head 6 remain free.
  • the assembly method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt to the dimensional variations of the stones 1 by allowing the stones to be assembled on their fixing support without having to first form different housings of appropriate dimensions to receive stones.
  • the stone 1 assembled on its fixing support 2 thus released can be used in the crimping process according to the invention.
  • Said method of crimping said stone onto an element of a timepiece or of jewelry comprises the assembly of the stone 1 and of its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above on a kitten . The kitten is then attached to the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the stone 1 and its fixing support 2 obtained according to the assembly method as described above are mounted directly on the timepiece or jewelry item.
  • the mounting of the fixing support 2 carrying the stone 1 on the kitten 38 or directly on the timepiece or jewelry element can be carried out by clipping, chasing, crimping, etc.
  • the timepiece or jewelry element may for example be a dial, a bezel, a rotating bezel, a middle part, a case horn, a crown, a needle, an index finger, a link or other bracelet element , an element of pendant, ring, necklace, etc., any element of internal or external covering, or any element of clockwork / jewelry decor that can be set.

Claims (11)

  1. Verfahren zum Einsetzen eines Steins (1) in einen Befestigungsträger (2), wobei der Stein (1) so geschliffen ist, dass er eine Tafel (3), eine Krone (4), eine Rundiste (5) und einen Stumpf (6) aufweist, und das Einsetzverfahren die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    a) Bereitstellen eines Substrats (8), das eine Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10) umfasst
    b) Positionieren des Steins (1) auf der Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10) des Substrats (8)
    c) Erwärmen der Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10)
    d) Ausüben eines Drucks auf den Stein (1), so dass ein Teil der Krone (4) oder ein Teil des Stumpfs (6) des Steins (1) in die ausreichend erweichte Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10) gedrückt werden kann, wobei der Rest des Steins (1) im Freien verbleibt
    e) Positionieren einer Einfassungsplatte (12) oberhalb der Klebeschicht (10) um den Stein (1) herum, so dass ein peripherer freier Raum (16) zwischen der Einfassungsplatte (12) und dem Stein (1) mindestens auf der Höhe der Rundiste (5) und der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereiche (4a, 6a) der Krone (4) und des Stumpfs (6) gebildet wird
    f) galvanisches Einwachsen einer Metallschicht (22) in dem peripheren freien Raum (16) von der Einfassungsplatte (12) aus mindestens im Bereich der Rundiste (5) und der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzenden Bereiche (4a, 6a) der Krone (4) und des Stumpfs (6), um die Rundiste (5) in der Metallschicht (22) einzuschließen, wobei die Metallschicht (22) und die Einfassungsplatte (12) den Befestigungsträger (2) bilden
    g) Lösen des Steins (1) und seines Befestigungsträgers (2) vom Substrat (8).
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzende Bereich (6a) des Stumpfs (6) und der an die Rundiste (5) angrenzende Bereich (4a) der Krone (4) nur unmittelbar auf beiden Seiten der Rundiste (5) erstrecken, so dass die Metallschicht (22) zwischen dem Stein (1) und der Einfassungsplatte (12) im Wesentlichen nur um die Rundiste (5) herum gebildet wird.
  3. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Einfassungsplatte (12) aus einem metallischen Material hergestellt wird, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die Nickel, Gold, Silber, Platin, Palladium, Kupfer, Messing und deren Legierungen umfasst.
  4. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Schritt e) ferner das Anbringen einer unteren Isolierschicht (18) zwischen der Klebeschicht (10) und der Einfassungsplatte (12) und das Anbringen einer oberen Isolierschicht (20) auf der freien Oberfläche der Einfassungsplatte (12) umfasst.
  5. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die in Schritt f) abgeschiedene Metallschicht (22) aus einem Material hergestellt wird, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die Nickel, Gold, Silber, Platin, Rhodium, Palladium, Kupfer und deren Legierungen umfasst.
  6. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Substrat (8) auf einem Material basiert, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die ein Glas, eine Keramik, Silizium, ein Metall, ein Polymer und einen Quarz umfasst.
  7. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10) eine Schicht aus löslichem Klebstoff ist.
  8. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt g) zum Lösen durch Auflösen der Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10) durchgeführt wird.
  9. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mehrere Steine (1) auf der Heißschmelzklebeschicht (10) positioniert werden, um einen Befestigungsträger (2) in Form einer Platte zu bilden, die mehrere Steine (1) umfasst, die in die Platte eingesetzt sind.
  10. Verfahren zum Einfassen eines Steins (1) auf einem Uhren- oder Schmuckelement, umfassend das Fassen des Steins (1) und seines entsprechend dem Einsetzverfahren nach Anspruch 1 bis 9 erhaltenen Befestigungsträgers (2) auf einem auf dem Uhren- oder Schmuckelement befestigten Futter oder direkt auf dem Uhren- oder Schmuckelement.
  11. Uhr oder Schmuckstück, umfassend mindestens einen Stein (1), der in seinen entsprechend dem Einsetzverfahren nach Anspruch 1 bis 9 erhaltenen Befestigungsträger (2) eingesetzt ist.
EP17200365.9A 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins Active EP3479721B1 (de)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17200365.9A EP3479721B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins
US16/141,370 US10736389B2 (en) 2017-11-07 2018-09-25 Method for setting a stone
JP2018201537A JP6666977B2 (ja) 2017-11-07 2018-10-26 石をセッティングする方法
CN201811319395.6A CN109744667B (zh) 2017-11-07 2018-11-07 用于镶嵌石材的方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17200365.9A EP3479721B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3479721A1 EP3479721A1 (de) 2019-05-08
EP3479721B1 true EP3479721B1 (de) 2020-05-13

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP17200365.9A Active EP3479721B1 (de) 2017-11-07 2017-11-07 Verfahren zum fassen eines steins

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US10736389B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3479721B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6666977B2 (de)
CN (1) CN109744667B (de)

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US11169265B2 (en) 2018-05-03 2021-11-09 Fujifilm Sonosite, Inc. Dual frequency ultrasound transducer
CN110281683B (zh) * 2019-07-18 2021-12-21 广州番禺职业技术学院 一种陶瓷镶嵌金属的工艺饰品制作方法

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP3479721A1 (de) 2019-05-08
JP6666977B2 (ja) 2020-03-18
JP2019084350A (ja) 2019-06-06
CN109744667B (zh) 2021-06-29
US20190133271A1 (en) 2019-05-09
US10736389B2 (en) 2020-08-11
CN109744667A (zh) 2019-05-14

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